The weather here is better than it's been for weeks so I sat outside by their lovely pond taking in the sun and watching the geese on the pond.

I also managed to bag a bargain; a lovely yellow Dahlia, Dahlia Kelvin Floodlight, for just £3! It is supposed to have enormous flowers up to 11ins across and the plant grows to 36ins high.

I'll take a photo when it's flowering.

I love Bents, it's my favourite garden centre. If you've never been before their address is Warrington Road, Glazebury, Warrington, Cheshire, WA3 5NT.

Here's a link to their website.

• Rowan Tree - The Rowan or Sorbus sargentiana is a slow-growing tree with large, sticky red buds in autumn. In spring, dark green leaves are produced which turn a fiery orange and red in autumn. The white flowers are produced in early summer usually followed by red berries which are quickly eaten by birds. Share and Enjoy: ...

The Rowan or Sorbus sargentiana is a slow-growing tree with large, sticky red buds in autumn. In spring, dark green leaves are produced which turn a fiery orange and red in autumn. The white flowers are produced in early summer usually followed by red berries which are quickly eaten by birds.

A lovely tree for the small garden. Our Rowan is a self-seeded specimen, bought in by the birds no doubt!

It like full sun or dappled shade and prefers a slightly acidic soil which is why it does well here. It doesn’t require regular pruning, just remove any broken or diseased brances in late autumn. Eventual height and spread is 10m.

Crocus.co.uk have a good range of Sorbus Trees, click to find out more.

Here's what the RHS has to say about what it is and how to treat it:

Cabbage whitefly is a sap-feeding insect that can infest cabbage and all other types of leafy brassica.

The symptoms to look out for are white-winged insects about 1.5mm long which fly up in clouds from the underside of brassica leaves when disturbed, flat, oval, whitish-green scale-like nymphs are attached to the lower leaf surface and black or greenish-grey sooty moulds can develop on the upper leaf surface on the sticky honeydew excreted by this pest.

Whitefly causes little damage so there isn't too much to worry about but if you want to treat it an  organic pesticide can be sprayed onto the lower leaf surfaces include, try Vitax Organic 2 in 1 Pest and Disease Control or Scotts Bug Clear for Fruit & Veg. Or for chemical control you can use Bayer Sprayday Greenfly Killer All-In-One or Westland Plant Rescue Fruit & Vegetable Bug Killer.

• Rowan Tree - The Rowan or Sorbus sargentiana is a slow-growing tree with large, sticky red buds in autumn. In spring, dark green leaves are produced which turn a fiery orange and red in autumn. The white flowers are produced in early summer usually followed by red berries which are quickly eaten by birds. Share and Enjoy: ...
• Saffron Crocus Bulbs have arrived - My Saffron Crocus bulbs arrived from Suttons just before my holiday so I have only just planted them. I chose to plant them in three medium sized bulb bowls so that I can keep them close to the house and keep my eye on them. Share and Enjoy: ...

Flower/Plants

• Prune rambling roses
• Cut back perennials once they have finished flowering
• Collect seed from perennials and store in a cool place
• Take cuttings of lavender
• Cut everlasting flowers and seed heads for use in indoor arrangements

Fruit/Vegetables

• Plant out rooted strawberry runners into new beds
• Sow outdoors: hardy spring onions, lettuces, salads and Chinese cabbages
• Sow parsley in pots for picking in winter
• Plant out Japanese onion sets and garlic
• Cut down raspberry canes once they have finished cropping

Greenhouse

• Pick off the lower leaves from tomatoes to allow light and air to reach the fruits
• Keep poinsettias in the dark for 14 hours a day to encourage colourful bract formation
• Close vents at night as the weather turns cooler
• Keep grow bags well watered
• Start watering indoor cyclamen to promote new growth

General

• Hoe borders to keep weeds down
• Prepare areas for sowing new lawns during showery weather
• Trim hedges and topiary into shape
• Buy spring bulbs
• Order sweet-pea seed for autumn planting

• Make your own Leafmould - Autumn can be a lovely time of year but the work involved in clearing up all the dropped leaves can be a chore each year. However, there is a benefit to be had – they make a fabulous free source of organic matter. Share and Enjoy: ...
• Calamondin Marmalade - Calamondine is probably the most hardy citrus tree available in the UK and due to it’s small size makes an ideal citrus tree for any home. They also make great Christmas present particularly if they are in fruit. Share and Enjoy: ...
• Looking after your lawn in Autumn - Autumn is an important season for taking care of your lawn. It is important to use the last months of the growing season to strengthen and prepare the lawn for the rigours of winter. The effort put into a lawn in autumn will improve the quality and health of the lawn right through into the ...
• Plant Spring Flowering Bulbs - Bulb is a general term used for plants which have a food storage organ which allows them to grow and flower quickly once the ideal conditions are available. There are four types of “bulb”: true bulbs, corms, tubers and rhizomes. The Gardener can find a huge and colourful selection of bulbs for every season of the ...
• Plant your Spring Flowering Bulbs - Spring Flowering Bulbs come in lots of shapes, sizes and colours but the one thing they have in common is the ability to turn a dull late winter, early spring garden into an oasis of light and colour. No garden is complete without the good old daffodil or tulip but there are many other spring ...

One of the most rewarding sights in my garden this year has been the Clematis.

Over the years I have planted a number of early and late flowering Clematis below my established shrubs which has meant that when you least expect it wonderfully coloured flowers emerge from the shrubs foliage.

Not all Clematis are suitable for this treatment, try the small-flowered species which flower in early spring on last season’s growth. The stems can look a little unsightly during the winter so grow these through evergreen shrubs to disguise the Clematis stems. Once they have finished flowering carefully remove dead or damaged stems, and reduce other stems if they are taking over the shrub. Every few years you can rejuvenate older plants by cutting down to 15-30cm (6-12in) from the base immediately after flowering. This will keep the clematis in check and avoid damaging the shrub it is growing through.

You can also try the late summer flowering varieties which flower on this years growth meaning that you can cut the whole plant down to a pair of strong buds 15-20cm (6-8in) above soil level, before growth begins in early spring leaving your shrub free to do its thing during early summer.

• The 12 Step Beginners Guide to Pruning - Not all shrubs require pruning but you may want to consider it in order to shape the plant, to encourage vigorous growth, flowering or fruit production or to remove dead, damaged or diseased material. Following pruning; feed and mulch to encourage strong, healthy growth. Share and Enjoy: ...
• Clematis Rebecca - This great clematis is from Raymond Evison and was the Chelsea feature for 2008, it was named for his eldest daughter and has brilliant red flowers! Share and Enjoy: ...
• How to Prune Wisteria - To ensure a good display of flowers Wisteria needs to be pruned twice a year. Make sure that your secateurs are sharp to avoid crushing or tearing the stems, which may lead to die-back. Share and Enjoy: ...
• Preparing your lawn for spring - Mowing is the most important maintenance operation for any lawn. Before the first cut in spring, it is important to check the lawn and the mower. Debris, such as twigs and small branches, may have accumulated over the winter. These should be removed prior to making the first cut. Check the mower is in good ...
• We have Ground Elder! - Ground Elder is an invasive, perennial weed which spreads using underground stems or rhizomes. It dies down each winter and reappears in the spring and flowers with flat headed white flowers in early summer. Usually the leaves are dark green but they can also be variegated. Share and Enjoy: ...

The instructions say they can be planted any time through to September but early August is the best time.

They should be ready to harvest from October but as mine were planted late it may be November before I can begin to collect the orange/red stigmas from the flowers.

Once harvested the plants should be left to die down naturally to allow the bulbs to regenerate for next year.

The stigmas will need to be dried out and will be able to be kept in an airtight jar for several years.

I'll post an update once they are in flower.

• Rowan Tree - The Rowan or Sorbus sargentiana is a slow-growing tree with large, sticky red buds in autumn. In spring, dark green leaves are produced which turn a fiery orange and red in autumn. The white flowers are produced in early summer usually followed by red berries which are quickly eaten by birds. Share and Enjoy: ...

It is important that your new, or repaired, lawn has a few weeks to settle before winter sets in so Autumn is an important season for taking care of your lawn. It's also a good time to apply a bark mulch to beds and borders to help reduce weeds, to make your borders look good and to protect plants during the winter months.

To help you during this important time of year Rolawn will save you £5 when you buy Rolawn GroRight® Autumn Lawn Food Twin Pack for just £20.90 each as well as a 15% discount on Rolawn Decorative Bark using code bark510 until 20th September 2010.

Rolawn are also offering 10% discount on all orders until 20th September 2010 using code RD410.

• Protect Plant Roots - Now the weather’s turned much colder it’s a good time to think about protecting plants in your borders. Very tender plants will need to be lifted and stored under cover, however hardier plants and shrubs can be protected by applying a layer of mulch to protect their roots. Weeds should be removed from the borders first, ...
• Looking after your lawn in Autumn - Autumn is an important season for taking care of your lawn. It is important to use the last months of the growing season to strengthen and prepare the lawn for the rigours of winter. The effort put into a lawn in autumn will improve the quality and health of the lawn right through into the ...
• Protect yourself whilst Gardening in the Sun - But did you know that just tinkering around the garden for an hour or so could result in serious sun damage? Share and Enjoy: ...
• The Gardening Register has an Allotment - Three weeks ago my brother, Allan, was allocated an allotment after being on the waiting list for just a couple of months. The allotments are called Ashfiled Allotments and are situated round the corner from our mum’s house in Knotty Ash. It is just a half plot but is more than big enough for what ...
• The GR Allotment: Update - Allan also managed to get three raised beds built and ready for planting so our potatoes went in a couple of weeks ago. We are growing Anya, a second early and Maris Piper a late and our Mum’s favourite potatoe, great for chips, roasting and mash. Share and Enjoy: ...

This is good news in that we now have sufficient water for the region, however, we can all still do our bit and continue to save water by using the water from your waterbutt.

Here are some water saving tips to help:

• If you have to use a hosepipe fit it with a trigger gun to reduce the amount of water you use.

• When possible use a watering can to significantly cut water waste

• Water in the evening or early morning to extend the length of time before the soil dries out and therefore allowing the water to reach right down to the roots

• Giving your plants a good soaking once or twice a week is much better than watering a little, more often.

If you don't yet have a waterbutt find out how to set one up by visiting the Waterwise website.

• Can I fill my water butt with a hose during the hosepipe ban? - I know it may sound like a strange question but I had heard that some people were re-filling their water butts with a hosepipe during the ban. So to clarify things I gave United Utilities a call and they say that no you cannot use a hose to fill your water butt or to fill a ...
• Gardeners World Scrapbook - Do you buy gardening magazines each month to find out what you should be doing and for advice from the experts? Do you tear out the articles to keep for the future? But do you then forget where you put them? This is what I tend to do but Gardeners World’s new feature allows you ...
• What’s looking good in August - Often August is a quiet time in the garden but with plants such as Japanese anemone, Rudbeckia, Buddleja and Hibiscus you can guarantee a good display of colour. Share and Enjoy: ...
• Plant of the Month – Camelia - Camellias are wonderful plants giving amazing splashes of colour on bleak February days. This year, in my garden at least, the Camellias are very late in flowering due to the exceptionally cold winter and early Spring. Share and Enjoy: ...
• Clematis Rebecca - This great clematis is from Raymond Evison and was the Chelsea feature for 2008, it was named for his eldest daughter and has brilliant red flowers! Share and Enjoy: ...

For some people, gardening is a passion. Some people garden just as a hobby. For still others, it’s a way to feed their families. We think Shirley Maclaine’s character in “Steel Magnolias” said it best. “Because that’s what Southern women do – we wear funny hats and grow things in the dirt.”

You don’t have to be from the South or be a woman, or even wear a funny hat to enjoy gardening. The thrill of seeing your first red, ripe tomato or watching your first stalk of corn reach from the ground can be an amazing experience for many people.

Gardening is also a great way to provide healthy food for you and your loved ones. There is nothing quite like presenting a salad to your family that came exclusively from your garden worked by your own two hands.

Many people choose to garden so they can have control over what type of food they eat without fear of chemicals or preservatives. Often, commercially grown produce is cultivated in greenhouses with the use of pesticides and chemicals to enhance their growth.

A quick study on these types of artificial applications can be unnerving for anyone. The side effects of chemical pesticides on the human body can truly take its toll. So many people are jumping on the “organic bandwagon” as a way to minimize the risks to themselves and their loved ones that often comes with commercially prepared foods.

You don’t have to be a health nut to embrace organic gardening. Imagine the wonderful way you’ll feel knowing that you are serving foods that were grown all naturally without the risks that come from applying chemical fertilizers and pesticides.

It’s easier than you think. If you’ve been gardening for years or are just beginning to grow your own food, organic gardening can provide you with peace of mind and pride in your produce. Don’t have any clues how to start? That’s why you’re reading this book!

We will explore the advantages of organic gardening as well as the best way to begin your all-natural garden. We’ll give you ideas about mulching, weed control, and composting. Plus, we’ll give you some ideas on all-natural pest controls and ways to make sure your garden thrives – without chemicals!

Let’s begin our journey towards becoming an Organic Gardener!

CONTENTS

• INTRODUCTION
• WHY GARDEN ORGANICALLY?
• THE RISK OF CHEMICALS
• WHAT IS ORGANIC GARDENING
• PLANNING YOUR GARDEN
• WHAT TYPE OF SOIL DO YOU HAVE?
• GETTING THE SOIL READY
• THE BENEFITS OF MULCHING
• PLANTING YOUR GARDEN
• STARTING SEEDS INDOORS
• CONTROLLING THOSE WEEDS
• CONTROLLING PESTS
• SPRAYS AND POWDERS
• ANIMALS AND BUGS
• COMMON GARDEN PESTS
• MAKING YOUR OWN COMPOST
• TENDING THE GARDEN
• WINTERING YOUR GARDEN
• RECIPES FOR YOUR ORGANIC GARDEN
• CONCLUSION

WHY GARDEN ORGANICALLY?

As recent as 25 years ago, the idea of organic gardening was considered quite a radical concept. How in the world were gardeners expected to control the weeds, the bugs, and the animals that could threaten a thriving garden without the use of man-made chemicals?

When you think about it, organic gardening is a really simply theory. For years, people have been growing things without the use of chemicals so it only makes sense that we should be able to apply the same techniques and get the same results as they did. We should grow food using Mother Nature's ingredients rather than concoctions born in a chemist's laboratory for the good of all of us.

But the interest in organic gardening goes beyond just the benefits for us and our families. There has been a rise in the interest of ecology and concern about the environment that has given new life to the renewed interest in this form of gardening. By using natural minerals and materials, by taking advantage of natural predators, and by recycling garden waste, the home gardener can maintain an organic garden quite successfully.

There are many, many advantages to gardening organically. Probably first and foremost is that Food produced using organic agriculture is more nourishing and more healthful.

In early August, 2001, the British organization, The Soil Association, reported that a comprehensive review of existing research revealed significant differences between organically and non-organically grown food. These differences relate to food safety, primary nutrients, secondary nutrients and the health outcomes of the people who eat organically.

Vitamin C and dry matter contents are higher, on average, in organically grown crops then they are in non-organic crops. Mineral contents are also higher, on average, in organically grown crops. Food grown organically contains "substantially higher concentrations of antioxidants and other health promoting compounds than crops produced with pesticides.

Many people think that organically grown foods taste better. Also, some foods grown without pesticides produce a higher amount of an anti-oxidant that has been found to reduce the risk of some cancers.

Overall, though, most people who enjoy organic gardening report that the enjoyment they derive is paramount to their decision to eschew chemicals in favour of the all-natural route. Many people like to watch the tender new growth come to full maturity and, as a bonus, you get to eat it!

With organic gardening, you get extra fresh vegetables. Naturally, corn on the cob and newly picked peas are especially noticeable, but this trait extends to all vegetables you grow yourself, especially under the organic method. A phenomenon noted by most people when harvesting their very first vegetables from their very first garden is that everyone eats much more of a given vegetable than they would of a similar store bought variety.

You will save money not only by growing your own food, but you can even make a little extra cash on the side by selling your own all-natural foods that are so popular in the grocery stores these days. If you have canned all the tomatoes you can and still have bushels left over, you can take the extra to the farmer’s market and sell your organic tomatoes to others who don’t have the advantage of their own garden.

For any gardener who still hasn't been convinced about the need to garden organically, here are some statistics that may help change your mind. In March of 2001, the American Cancer Society published a report linking the use of the herbicide glyphosate (commonly sold as Round-up) with a 27% increased likelihood of contracting Non-Hodgkins Lymphoma.

John Hopkins University also revealed that home gardeners use almost 10 times more pesticide per acre than the average farmer and that diseases caused by environmental illness, exposure to chemicals etc., is now the number one cause of death in the U.S. With the EPA's recent phasing out of common pesticides such as Dursban and Diazinon, we are now realizing that many of the chemicals that we thought were "safe" were never actually tested to see what their affect on children, women, and the elderly could be. The time has come to reassess our dependence on pesticides.

However, you may be asking why are chemicals so bad if we’ve been using them for years and years?

THE RISK OF CHEMICALS

We have chemicals in our everyday lives everywhere. Shampoo, toothpaste, many foods, even our clothing all contain or are manufactured with the use of chemicals. Besides polluting the environment, the use of chemicals can be much more threatening. But we’re concentrating on gardening and the use of these chemicals on our food.

One of the prominent ways chemicals are used in food production is through chemical fertilizers. Chemical fertilizers are quick-acting, short-term plant boosters and are responsible for:

• Deterioration of soil friability creating hardpans soil
• Altering vitamin and protein content of certain crops
• Making certain crops more vulnerable to diseases
• Preventing plants from absorbing some needed minerals
• Destruction of beneficial soil life, including earthworms

The soil must be regarded as a living organism. An acid fertilizer, because of its acids, dissolves the cementing material, made up of the dead bodies of soil organisms, which holds the rock particles together in the form of soil crumbs. This compact surface layer of rock particles encourages rain water to run off rather than enter the soil.

For example, a highly soluble fertilizer, such as 5-10-5, goes into solution in the soil water rapidly so that much of it may be leached away into our ground water without benefiting the plants at all. This chemical causes the soil to assume a cement-like hardness. When present in large concentrations, they seep into the subsoil where they interact with the clay to form impervious layers of precipitates called hardpan.

Many artificial chemical fertilizers contain acids, as sulfuric and hydrochloric, which will increase the acidity of the soil. Changes in the soil acidity (pH) are accompanied by the changes in the kinds of organisms which can live in the soil. For this reason, the artificial fertilizer people tell their customers to increase the organic matter content of their soil or use lime to offset the effects of these acids.

There are several ways by which artificial fertilizers reduce aeration of soils. Earthworms, whose numerous borings made the soil more porous, are killed. The acid fertilizers will also destroy the cementing material which binds rock particles together in crumbs. Chemical fertilizers rob plants of some natural immunity by killing off the micro organisms in the soil.

Many plant diseases have already been considerably checked when antibiotic producing bacteria or fungi thrived around the roots. When plants are supplied with much nitrogen and only a medium amount of phosphate, plants will most easily contract mosaic infections. Host resistance is obtained if there is a small amount of nitrogen and a large supply of phosphate. Fungus and bacterial diseases have been related to high nitrogen fertilization, and lack of trace elements.

Plants grown with artificial chemical fertilizers tend to have less nutrient value than organically grown plants. For example, several tests have found that by supplying citrus fruits with a large amount of soluble nitrogen will lower the vitamin C content of oranges. It has also been found, that these fertilizers that provide soluble nitrogen will lower the capacity of corn to produce high protein content.

Probably the most regularly observed deficiency in plants treated continually with chemical fertilizers is deficiencies in trace minerals. To explain this principle will mean delving into a little physics and chemistry, but you will then easily see the unbalanced nutrition created in chemical fertilized plants.

The colloidal humus particles are the convoys that transfer most of the minerals from the soil solution to the root hairs. Each humus particle is negatively charged and will, attract the positive elements, such as potassium, sodium, calcium, magnesium, manganese, aluminum, boron, iron, copper and other metals.

When sodium nitrate is dumped into the soil year after year, in large doses, a radical change takes place on the humus articles. The very numerous sodium ions (atomic particles) will eventually crowd out the other ions, making them practically unavailable for plant use. The humus becomes coated with sodium, glutting the root hairs with the excess. Finally, the plant is unable to pick up the minerals that it really needs.

So, with chemical fertilizers, in short, you have short-time results, and long-term damage to the soil, ground water and to our health.

Another reason to avoid the use of chemicals and pesticides is that long term use of such chemicals can deplete the soil and leave it unable to sustain further growth. In many cases beds of perennials suddenly stop blooming for no apparent reason, and the culprit is often found to be the overuse of chemical fertilizers, herbicides and pesticides. Chemicals that are applied to plants can often seep into the water supply thus contaminating it. While it’s true, our drinking water does go through a filtration process, it’s been proven that this process doesn’t remove ALL of the harmful contaminants.

It has also been proven that certain chemicals can cause diseases, birth defects, and other hazardous health problems. All one needs to do is watch the movie “Erin Brokovich” to see what chemical contamination of water can do to a body.

Eating organically eliminates, or minimizes, the risk from poisoning from heavy metals found in sewage sludge, the unknowns of genetically modified food, the ingestion of hormone residues, and the exposure to mutant bacteria strains. It also reduces the exposure to insecticide and fungicide residues.

It is certainly in the best interests of the human population to avoid chemicals in our food, but it’s also better for our planet as well. Chemicals can affect the soil making it less fertile. They destroy important parts of the natural eco-system. All plants and animals serve some sort of purpose – even if that purpose isn’t especially obvious. By taking these components out of the natural life cycle, we are endangering our environment in ways we can’t necessarily see outright, but that danger is there.

So it becomes obvious that growing your food naturally is the best way to go. Let’s take a moment and look at what exactly organic gardening is.

WHAT IS ORGANIC GARDENING?

Many gardeners wonder what exactly organic gardening means. The simple answer is that organic gardeners don't use synthetic fertilizers or pesticides on their plants. But gardening organically is much more than what you don't do.

When you garden organically, you think of your plants as part of a whole system within nature that starts in the soil and includes the water supply, people, wildlife and even insects. An organic gardener strives to work in harmony with natural systems and to minimize and continually replenish any resources the garden consumes.

Organic gardening operates on the concept of recycling. You use animal waste, kitchen scraps, and vegetable waste to compost and mulch. You will use common household items like vinegar and soap to prevent pests and weeds.

Organic growers rely on developing a healthy, fertile soil and growing a mixture of crops. Genetically modified (GM) crops and ingredients are not allowed under organic standards.

Organic gardening is the merging together of plants and soil allowing the Earth to naturally bear what it was made to do. The plants and the soil are one working together to provide food and nourishment not only to humans but to animals and organisms as well.

It’s not a new age science. It’s actually quite simple and can be satisfying to the soul! So let’s get more in-depth on getting started.

PLANNING YOUR GARDEN

Your first task is choosing where to plant your garden. The site should receive at least six hours of direct sunlight daily, and the soil should drain well, with no standing puddles. The area should receive adequate air circulation, yet be protected from strong winds. Your house or a thicket of trees can act as a shield from the wind.

After choosing your site, decide how large you want to make your garden. Beware of beginning too ambitiously; tending a plot that's too large can quickly become a chore. A plot 10 feet long by 10 feet wide is large enough for some tomato plants, lettuce, a bush variety of cucumber plant, radishes, herbs and some flowers.

Once you've chosen your site, draw out a garden plan; this plan will ensure maximum productivity by giving each plant room to grow. Measure the dimensions of the plot and draw a scale model on graph paper, using, for example, a one-inch square to represent one foot.

As you draw your plan, keep in mind each plant's space requirements at maturity; the little tomato plants you put out in the spring will take up three feet of space by the end of summer. Consider laying out your garden design in blocks instead of the more familiar rows. Because you don't have to allow as much space for paths, this will enable you to plant more.

Blocks containing a variety of plants encourage mini-gardens of vegetables, herbs and flowers, and are more diverse than single rows that alternate just two plants. Single crops crowded together are more susceptible to disease, so the diversity of blocks can mean healthier plants. Make each block just wide enough so you can comfortably reach the middle from each side.

The layout of your garden depends in part on what it is you want to plant. Some crops, such as lettuce, radishes and spinach, mature quickly and will be short-term residents, unless you plant and harvest them several times during the summer. Other plants, such as tomatoes and peppers, will grow over the course of the entire season. Perennial herbs and flowers will remain in the same spot year after year, requiring an increasing amount of space each year.

Be sure to save your garden plan to use as a reference for rotating crops next year. Besides depleting the soil of nutrients, leaving plants in the same spot each year encourages disease and soil-borne insect predators. No annual plant should go in the same spot two years in a row. If you wait three years before putting a plant in the same spot, that works even better.

It is a good idea to consider planting “green manure” plants to fix the soil. You can add this to your plan from year to year. Clover, Alfalfa, and other such plants fix nutrients from the soil, which can be used by other plants, as well as adding bulk and organic matter to the soil, when they are dug, or tilled directly into the soil.

Another key to growing organically is to choose plants suited to the site. Plants adapted to your climate and conditions are better able to grow without a lot of attention or input; on the other hand, when you try to grow a plant that is not right for your site, you will probably have to boost its natural defenses to keep it healthy and productive.

Once you plan out your garden for this year, you should really make a plan for next year as well. Because crop rotation is so important to keep healthy soil, as long as you’re making a plan, draw up where you will plant what in the next season. This will help you remember what was planted where and save troubles next year.

So now you know where you’ll put your garden and what you’re going to put in it. Let’s get started on the planting!

WHAT TYPE OF SOIL DO YOU HAVE?

Soil is a gardener's most precious resource and if well looked after it will produce bigger crops and healthier plants that last longer. To ensure your soil gives you the best results possible you need to understand it.

Soil is made up of two layers, the topsoil and the subsoil.

The topsoil is the most fertile and is generally a darker colour than the subsoil. Most of the plants roots are in this layer, only the bigger roots reach down to the subsoil.

Although the subsoil is not as important as the topsoil it greatly affects how well plants grow. Compacted subsoil means that roots can't penetrate and water can often sit on the "pan" resulting in water logging. It is sometimes necessary to break up the subsoil before beginning work on the overall condition of the topsoil.

As most of the plants roots are in the topsoil it is important to establish its characteristics. The Soil Texture refers to the proportion of particles making up the soil. There are three particles; clay, silt and sand.

A high proportion of any one of these particles determines the overall soil texture. A mixture of all three results in loam which is the best soil to have. There are advantages and disadvantages to all but loamy soils.

Soils high in clay tends to drain slowly and becomes waterlogged making is difficult to work and slow to warm up in spring. In summer it dries with a hard crust making it very dry and liable to cracking. On the other hand it retains nutrients so is the most fertile.

Sandy soils have large particles and gaps which allow water and nutrients to quickly drain away; but it is quick to warm up in spring.

Silty soils have fine particles which bind together; this makes it difficult to work with unless lots of organic matter is incorporated.

To determine the texture of your soil carry out the following test.

Take a small amount of soil and wet it. Knead lightly in the hand to form a smooth paste. If it rolls easily and become shiny it is clay. If it feels gritty and won't form a ball shape it is sand. If it feels sticky but gritty and breaks up when rolled then its loam. As well as the three main types there can be combinations such as a clay loam which will roll easily but feels rough.

There is little you can do to change the soil texture but there are plants to suit all textures of soil, it is just a matter of working with it. However, the soil structure can be changed.

Soil Structure is the condition of the soil i.e. the combination of the particles and organic matter forming the soil crumbs. For plants to thrive they need a good balance of air and water, the introduction of organic matter such as well rotted manure or leafmould, is beneficial to all soil types. It will break up clay soil to improve drainage and will bind together sandy soil to improve water retention.

You will also need to consider your soil's pH which indicates the acidity of the soil. Most plants will be quite happy in a Neutral or slightly acid or alkaline soil with pH of between 6 and 8. If your soil is 7.5 or more then your soil is alkaline, a pH of less than 7 means your soil is acid and you will be able to grow plants such as Hydrangea and Rhododendron. You can easily test the acidity of your soil by using a simple Soil Testing Kit which are available from most garden centres, just follow the instructions on the box.

The best way to improve your garden soil is to increase the amount of humus it contains. This can be done by either adding well-rotted organic matter or by growing special green manures. Plants can also be given a boost by applying fertilizers.

All soils can be improved by adding well-rotted organic matter; but the effects depend on the type of soil you have. On clay soil it aids drainage and aeration, on sandy soil it helps retain moisture and boosts fertility and on silty soil it helps prevent compaction.

Organic matter is best applied either in autumn or spring.

GETTING THE SOIL READY

Improve the Drainage

Poor drainage is a plant killer. Stagnant water around the roots starves them of air. Helpful bacteria are slowed down and harmful bacteria flourish.

The natural water level (water table) will determine whether the drainage is good or is not. If the water table is low an occasional watering is usually all that is needed. However if it is high the soil will become waterlogged and plants will eventually die.

To determine the soil's ability to drain, dig a few holes 500mm deep at different places in the garden. Fill them with water and leave for two days. If after this time the water has not drained away, the drainage will need to be improved. Dig the soil well and add a good quantity of grit. In particularly bad draining areas double digging may be required.

If you are unable to dig over the area you can always grow moisture loving plants.

Improve your soil by Digging

Digging breaks up compacted layers in the soil helping drainage and aeration. You can also take the opportunity to incorporate organic matter. The important thing is to do it at the right time, when the soil is not too wet or too dry.

Simple Digging

• This is the basic form of digging
• Use a spade and push it into the soil to the full depth of its blade
• Lever back and turn it onto the same area
• Chop up large clods and remove perennial weed roots by hand
• Good for most soils and for removing perennial weeds

Single Digging

• Create a trench with the soil placed to one side
• Add a layer of well-rotted organic matter to the bottom of the trench
• The next trench can be dug, turned and thrown forward on top of the organic matter in the first trench
• Repeat until the entire plot has been cultivated, filling the last trench with the soil from the first
• Good for poor soils and for removing perennial weeds

Double Digging

• Create a trench with the soil placed to one side
• Use a garden fork to the full depth of its prongs in the bottom of the trench to loosen the subsoil and break up any compaction
• Add a layer of well-rotted organic matter to the bottom of the trench
• The next trench can be dug, turned and thrown forward on top of the organic matter in the first trench
• Repeat until the entire plot has been cultivated, filling the last trench with the soil from the first
• Good for poorly drained soils and deep-rooting crops

THE BENEFITS OF MULCHING

Mulching is the application of organic matter on any exposed soil between plants and shrubs and should be carried out while the soil is warm and moist. There are lots of benefits to adding a good layer of mulch each season:

• A good layer of garden compost or well-rotted mature will keep the soil below cool and moist and therefore help retain moisture. Never mulch on top of dry soil as it may stop rainwater soaking in.
• A layer of mulch will exclude light and therefore stop weed seeds germinating. However, you must ensure that the ground is weed free before you mulch as it does not actually stop the weeds from growing.
• The mulch will eventually be dragged down into the soil by worms thereby adding goodness to the lower levels of the soil. This is sometimes known as the "no dig" technique for soil improvement.

Types of Mulch

• Fresh manure releases ammonia which can scorch or kill plants, therefore, should be kept for six months before being used so that it rots down sufficiently. Don't keep it too long though as you will find all the nutrients will have been washed out by the rain.
• Leaf Mould is just well rotted leaves but it makes wonderful mulch. Just collect fallen leaves during the autumn, pack into black plastic bags, make some holes in the bags to allow rain water to escape and leave to rot down for 2-3 years.
• Mushroom compost tends to be alkaline due to the chalk used in the casing material but if you live in a mushroom growing area it can be a good source of organic matter. It is especially good for acid soils.
• Chipped Bark is good for mulching but composted bark is excellent for soil improvement.
• Your own garden compost is rich in nutrients and is one of the best soil improvers there is so use it as mulch every year to get the benefits.

PLANTING YOUR GARDEN

You can choose to buy plants that are already growing that can be found at most garden centres, but if you do this, you can’t be sure what pesticides have come in contact with these plants.

Your goal, as an organic gardener, is to avoid these chemicals, so we recommend starting your garden from seed.

If you want to simply plant the seeds directly in the ground, that’s fine, just remember that growing from seed takes a little more time than growing from plants, so be patient! Don’t get too over-anxious here!

Many beginners will take a seed packet and dump its contents into the ground hoping a few plants will spring up. What they don’t realize is that with care, they will probably ALL come up – or at least most of them.

The problem here is that these plants will strive for air and light developing tall, weak stems and they will not thrive as they choke each other out.

There are some plants that can be seeded thickly. These include peas, parsnips and radishes. It’s fine to block these together as they will grow fine in clumps. Seeds have within them everything they need to grow, except moisture and warmth. But, if you pile 4-inches of soil over them, though, they are overwhelmed. The soil is heavy and cold and often damp enough to rot off the emerging leaf bud before it can break the surface. Be kind to your seeds. Cover them with soil to a depth no more than 2-times their size. Very fine seeds shouldn’t be covered at all.

There are also some vegetables that are conductive to early planting. These include radishes and leaf lettuce. They tend to come up quickly and can be harvested before any of your other plants have even begun to bud. With these types of plants, plant a single row or small bed and keep replanting every two or three weeks in small amounts. You’ll take up the same amount of space, save harvest time, and have a continuous crop throughout the growing season. When planting your seeds, you’ll need to dig a small trench and sprinkle them evenly throughout the row. The rows should be at least an inch apart, but increasing that distance makes for easier weeding and gives you walking space between the rows.

As we said, sprinkle them evenly and try to avoid crowding. In other words, don’t just dump the seed packet in the trench. You must leave room for the plants to grow and be able to get adequate light and air circulation. Once they’re in the ground, mark what you have planted where. This way once the plants start to come up, you’ll know where to look for them.

Water well after you’ve planted your seeds and then wait. You’ll soon begin to notice small plants popping through the soil and reaching for the sun. Before long, with proper cultivation, you’ll have beautiful plants!

Sometimes, it’s more satisfying to start your seeds indoors in the winter time so that when the spring arrives, you’ll have your own organically grown starter plants ready to put into your garden plot. Let’s look at how to start your seeds indoors.

STARTING SEEDS INDOORS

Starting your seeds indoors will lessen the amount of time you have to wait to see results in your garden, and many people prefer to grow their plants indoors first to ready them for the growing season. It can be motivational and satisfying.

If space is available near a sunny window, start seeds four to eight weeks before the expected planting date.

This is usually after the risk of frost has passed. Starting too early usually results in spindly plants due to crowding and lack of sufficient light.

Almost any container with drainage holes in the bottom will work for planting. For convenience, however, you may wish to start plants in the plastic trays and pots available at garden supply centers.

Use good, well-drained sterilized compost and add some vermiculite or grit to aid the drainage.

If you use compartmentalized trays or individual peat pots, place two or three seeds in each pot. Do not cover too deeply, as this may reduce or prevent seed germination. Just like planting directly in the ground, a general rule is to cover no more than four times the diameter of the seed.

Apply a fine spray of water to avoid washing the seed, causing them to float to the soil surface. Household window sprayers are suitable.

Cover the containers with plastic sheets or panes of glass and place in a cool room away from direct sunlight until germination.  By doing this, you will almost eliminate the necessity of watering again before the seeds germinate. Be sure to keep an eye on it though. Don't let it completely dry out!

Germination can take anywhere from a few days to a couple of months, depending on what you are growing, so patience will have to be on of your virtues.

When seeds germinate, move them gradually (over two or three days) into brighter light. When the seedlings have developed the first true leaves (the leaves above the cotyledons or “seed leaves”), thin to one plant per container if using partitioned trays or peat pots.

If seeds were planted in larger containers, transplant into individual pots or other small containers. An alternative is to thin the seedlings so they are spread about 1 1/2 to 2 inches apart and leave them in the larger containers. This method, however, makes inefficient use of seed and space.

Water your seedlings carefully. Small containers used for starting plants dry out quickly. On the other hand, soil kept soaking wet inhibits seedling growth and may kill the plants.

About one week prior to planting-out time, gradually expose seedlings to longer periods outdoors assuming it's not too cold. At the same time, reduce watering to a minimum as long as plants do not wilt. This will help the plants adjust to full exposure without undergoing undue shock at planting time.

When it comes time for planting in the ground, carefully remove the plant from its container keeping the roots intact. Dig a small hole in the garden plot and place the plant into the hole. Cover up the roots completely nearly up to the bottom leaves of the plant. Pack down the soil around the plant and water!

You’re on your way to becoming an organic gardener, but there’s still much more to learn! There are pitfalls to gardening that you must address to have a successful garden. First, we’ll address those pesky weeds.

CONTROLLING THOSE WEEDS

Weeds can be an organic gardener’s curse. Actually, for all gardeners, weeds are the bane of their existence in some cases but it must be done to promote healthy growth of plants and insure a good crop.

Even if you’re not an organic gardener, weed control is a problem. There really is no easy answer to this problem. It just takes time and effort to control the unwanted overgrowth in your garden. This is where mulching and composting come into play.

First of all, twice a week, run the edge of a sharp hoe just under the surface of the soil to behead tiny weeds before they grow large enough to compete with your seedlings.

Once the seedlings are larger, the soil is warm and drenching rains have ended, put down a layer of mulch to hold in moisture and smother weeds. Mulch is material that can be laid down around the plants to control weeds.

Choose ingredients that allow the soil to breathe, let water in and keep light out. These can include dried, not fresh grass clippings, chopped straw, lawn-mower-chopped leaves mixed with dried grass clippings or well-rotted sawdust (avoid fresh sawdust, as it leaches nitrogen from the soil), and pine needles are all good choices. Apply the mulch several inches thick.

Be warned that if you use grass clippings or weeds, you run the risk of bringing insects or diseases into the garden if these are not composted. Either of these types of mulching can become incubators for insects, so it’s best to compost them before using as mulch.

A thick layer of mulch keeps light from reaching weeds. Without adequate light, the plants don't produce enough chlorophyll to enable further growth. Most of these plants sicken and die before you even notice them. The few plants that do manage to stick their leaves into the light will be shallowly rooted and very easy to pull.

Organic mulches, straw, grass clippings, leaves, shredded bark, nourish the soil as they decompose. They are fairly effective weed barriers. You can also apply a layer of compost to control weeds.

If you live in a wet climate, you may wish to avoid mulching and keep cultivating, because mulch can lead to waterlogged soil and fungal diseases. In a climate subject to dry spells, mulch can dramatically reduce plant stress by helping the soil retain moisture. If you irrigate, feel under the mulch to be sure the water is getting through.

Mulch is great, but there are two ways to misuse it. One is to mulch heat-loving plants too early in the season, before the soil warms up. Mulch smothers weeds, but it's also a good insulator. Tomatoes, potatoes, watermelons and peppers will produce better if mulched.

Another mistake is to put down too little mulch. It looks good for a few weeks, but then weeds poke through, and they must be hand pulled, for there's just enough mulch covering the ground to make hoeing impossible. Insufficient mulch gives your plants much less drought protection.

Another way to control weeds is through various ground covers. This is often called “soil solarization”. Soil solarization involves placing thick plastic sheeting on top of the weeds and allowing the natural sun to “bake” the weeds until they die. This can take some time, so you must be patient!

Many people prefer to use newspaper for their ground cover. Because the paper will naturally decompose, it is environmentally friendly as well. Simply place 4-5 layers of newspaper in between your plants and cover with a light layer of soil so they don’t blow away! By covering up the weeds, you will be better able to control them!

Unfortunately, you will have to employ some old-fashioned methods to weed control in your garden. It can’t be avoided.

Hoeing is a huge part of a successful garden. Annual weeds die when you sever the stems from the roots just below the soil surface. With a sharp hoe, you cut the weeds easily. You may want to eschew the traditional square headed hoe for this job and try an oscillating one.

To hoe your garden without cultivating a backache, hold the hoe as you would a broom, that is, with your thumbs pointing up. Skim the sharp sides of the hoe blade through the top inch of the soil.

You will also have to do some hand-pulling of those weeds. It doesn’t have to be back-breaking work, though. It just takes persistence.

Finally, organic weed control can be done easily by placing common household vinegar in a spray bottle and apply to those weeds. Vinegar is the organic equivalent of the commercial Round-Up, so be careful when applying around thriving plants.

Beside those incessant weeds, you’ll also need to worry about pest control.

CONTROLLING PESTS

For the natural gardener, pest control might seem like a daunting task. After all, you’re committed to not using harmful chemicals in your garden, yet these chemicals can get rid of pests quickly and easily.

There are still many ways you can take control of your garden without resorting to chemical treatments. Natural pest control is actually quite easy.

We certainly understand that many gardeners become anxious when they see pests on their plants and want to react decisively when they see their plants damaged. But we must remind you of the central principle of organic gardening: growing plants in harmony with Nature. And insects, even those that eat your plants, are a crucial part of that system.

When you see insects in your garden, take some time to really watch what they're doing. Are they actually destroying the plant or just nibbling it a bit? Many plants can outgrow minor damage.

Also, in many cases, insects attack stresses out plants. Do you have enough healthy plants to spare the sickly ones? Can you restore sickly plants to robust health so they can resist insect attack?

The best defenses against insect attack are preventative measures. Grow plants suited to the site and they'll be less stressed out. Don't let them be too wet, too dry or too shaded. Design a diverse garden, so that pests of a particular plant won't decimate an entire section of the garden. Healthy soil will naturally produce plants that are resistant to insects and disease, but pests are a part of gardening.

There are different ways you can control pests naturally.

SPRAYS AND POWDERS

If pests and diseases cannot be prevented or controlled by cultural and physical means, it may be necessary to use natural pesticides.

Many growers have developed ways of making their own sprays from plants such as garlic, chillies, marigolds and many others. These are inexpensive and have proved to be very effective.

Here are some examples: A solution can be made from marigold using water and soap. The liquid acts as a crop strengthener to help potatoes, beans, tomatoes and peas resist blight, mildew and other fungal diseases. It also repels aphids, caterpillars and flies.

Garlic spray is particularly good against army worms, Colorado Beetle, False codling moth, Khapra beetle, Mexican bean beetle and Imported cabbage worm. Garlic can also kill nematodes if soil or batches of soil are drenched with garlic liquid.

You don’t HAVE to use anything on your plants if you depend on other animals to help you control pests.

ANIMALS AND BUGS

Birds, ladybirds and frogs are the gardener's best friends when it comes to insect control.

Birds can be encouraged into the garden by feeding, hanging a birdhouse providing a bird bath or by planting plants that provide berries for them to eat.

Frogs and lizards can also control pests by eating them. You can make your garden hospitable for your natural allies by keeping a water source, just a dish full, nearby for them and by not wiping out the entire pest population with a pesticide, sending the beneficial elsewhere in search of food. Also, grow plants with small blossoms like sweet alyssum and dill, which attract predatory insects who feed on flowers' nectar between attacks on pests.

Organic pest control is a comprehensive approach instead of a chemical approach. Create a healthy biodiversity so that the insects and microbes will control themselves. Using natural products and building healthy soil is the best long-term treatment for pests.

What are the pests you should be looking for?

COMMON GARDEN PESTS

There are literally hundreds of common garden pests that can attack your plants and threaten the viability of your gardening efforts. We couldn’t possibly address all of them. There are, however, some that occur in more frequency than others.

Aphids

Aphids are probably the most common problem in gardens. Aphids are soft, pear-shaped, and very tiny (1/16 to 3/8 inch long). Two short tubes project backward from the tip of their abdomen. Aphids have long antennae. Some types of aphids have wings, which are transparent, longer than their body, and held like a roof over their back. Aphids may be green, pink, yellowish, black, or powdery gray. Nymphs resemble adults but are smaller and wingless. They feed in colonies, so where there’s one, there’s definitely more. Aphid feeding can cause leaves to curl and become deformed. Once this has happened, the aphids are protected from any treatment you give to the plant, so it’s important to attack the problem as soon as possible. Many species prefer the underside of leaves, so look there first.

Ants

Ants are usually present where aphids are, so if there are ants in the garden, there are probably aphids as well. Aphids are the ant’s food source, so they will protect that food warding off predators that might threaten them. To naturally control aphids, first be sure to drench plants with strong sprays of water from a garden hose. Keep your plants as healthy as possible, and spray dormant oil to control over wintering eggs. You can also spray plants with insecticidal soap, summer oil, and homemade garlic sprays. At the end of the book, we’ll have some recipes like this for you to make yourself.

Cabbage Loopers

In the U.S. if you will be growing cabbage, broccoli, or cauliflower, you could have cabbage loopers. These pests are light green in color with white stripes running down their back. The larvae can reach approximately 1½ inches long and have three pairs of slender legs near the head and three pairs of larger legs at the rear end. The middle section is legless and is looped when the insect is moving. The larva is the damaging stage of the cabbage looper. The young larvae feed between the veins on the undersides of leaves. Large larvae make ragged holes in the foliage and move to the center of the plant where feeding generally occurs at the base of the cabbage head. Large loopers can also burrow through three to six layers of tightly wrapped head leaves. The best way to control cabbage loopers is to handpick the larvae a few times a week. Attract predatory and parasitic insects to the garden with pollen and nectar plants.

Earwigs

If you find small holes in the leaves of your plants, you may have earwigs. Earwigs are generally dark brown, slender and elongated. They have a pair of "pincers" at the rear of their body and they run more than fly. They have a curved up abdomen and release foul odor when disturbed. Earwigs will eat holes in the leaves of plants causing them to wilt and die. In general, earwigs can be beneficial to your garden, but they can get out of control, so you should use the general spray we’ll give you later in the book. There are a number of ways to control earwigs, but trapping them is probably the best way to eliminate them from your garden. One way we like is to take a small plant pot and fill it with straw. Place it upside down on a garden cane and leave overnight. During the night the earwigs will climb up into the straw and you will be able to tip them out of the pot in the morning and dispose of them.

Thrips

If the leaves of your plants are finely speckled with yellow spots or a silvery, metallic sheen, you could have thrips. Thrips are very small – about 1/16” - and difficult to see. There are many varieties of thrips and they are of all different colors. Thrips are best controlled with sprays as we’ve described. You can also spray the plants with soapy water. Lady bugs will eat thrips as well, so attract those lady bugs to your garden!

Slugs

Slugs are among the most troublesome pests in the garden. They feed on a variety of living plants and decaying plant matter. On plants they chew irregular holes with smooth edges in leaves and can clip succulent plant parts. They can also chew fruit and young plant bark. Because they prefer succulent foliage, they are primarily pests of seedlings, herbaceous plants, and ripening fruit such as strawberries, artichokes, and tomatoes that are close to the ground. However, they will also feed on fruit of some trees, citrus is especially susceptible to damage. Slugs are nocturnal and come out at night. They slither under rocks and leaves in the day. Holes chomped into leaves and fruits are telltale signs of slug feeding. A more certain sign of slug activity is the silvery trail of dried mucous that these pests leave in their wake. If that's not sufficiently convincing, go out into the garden at night with a flashlight and surprise them.

Slug control is actually quite easy. They are rather large, so they can be caught by hand and disposed of. While possibly cruel, the most effective way to kill a slug is to sprinkle it with salt. You can trap the slugs by placing a plastic bag in the garden containing two decaying lettuce leaves, 2 cups of bran cereal, and pouring beer over the whole mess. Put the bag out before sundown. In the morning, check to see if the slugs are in there and dispose of them.

Prevent slug infestation by removing dead and decaying leaves. This will remove their primary food source. Coffee grounds and egg shells will also keep slugs away. Just place them around the plants you want to protect at ground level.

MAKING YOUR OWN COMPOST

Composting can be as simple or as complex as you want to make it. The best part about creating compost is that it can consist of any organic material and we all have access to plenty of that every single day because it is produced by the lawn, garden, and kitchen.

Compost is what happens when leaves, grass clippings, vegetable and fruit scraps, woodchips, straw, and small twigs are combined, then allowed to break down into a soil-like texture. Compost introduces and feeds diverse life in the soil, including bacteria, insects, worms, and more which support vigorous plant growth.

Compost is multi-faceted but not intended as a fertilizer. It offers only a relatively low proportion of nutrients, yet what it does is close to magical. In its finished form as mulch, it reduces evaporation, reduces or prevents weed growth, and insulates the soil from extreme temperature changes. Mulch also keeps the upper inches of the soil cooler in daytime, warmer at night.

Yet compost has humble beginnings. Common, easily accessible materials destined to decay together in a pile will give your soil the gift of minerals and other components it needs. The materials are indeed numerous.

Regardless of the particular ingredients, making compost is akin to making bread or beer; soil-digesting bacteria like yeasts need warmth, moisture, air and something to feed on to keep them alive and growing. Almost all of the practical problems associated with making compost stem from too much or too little of those basic factors.

Compost is created from layers of grass clippings, leaves, weeds, kitchen scraps and, if available, farm animal manure. If you have meat eaters in your home, don't use their meat scraps, which will attract rodents. Also, do not use litter from your dog or cat; it doesn't break down properly and contains too many pathogens.

Over the years, composting has gotten a reputation for being a time-consuming job, but this is not necessarily the case. You don't need to build a big box or turn the pile every so often. A barrel, a hole in the ground or a pile on top of the ground is satisfactory.

The important requirement is to be sure the waste material is covered with soil, so it doesn't attract rats, other rodents or flies. You can build your layers directly on the ground, without any frame at all; if you use a container, be sure it is well ventilated.

The trick to successful compost is balancing ingredients high in nitrogen; fresh grass clippings, other fresh, green plant matter, most kitchen scraps - with those high in carbon; leaves, straw, dried grass, washed eggshells, wheat germ or other milled grains that have become too rancid or old to use, and any dried, brown plant matter. Too much nitrogenous matter yields an anaerobic, smelly pile. Too much carbonaceous matter results in a pile that never heats up. The ideal ratio is one part nitrogen to three parts carbon.

Start with a layer of small twigs, no large branches, a couple of inches deep; this will help your pile to breathe. Then, keeping in mind the 1 to 3 ratio of nitrogen to carbon, add a layer of mixed plant material. You may enrich the pile with horse or cow manure. These materials don't break down; they simply add nutrients to the final product.

Then lightly water the pile so it's evenly moist. Too much water will interfere with aeration; too little water and the pile won't ferment. If your pile sits in the open, you should pull a tarp over it before a storm, and then remove the tarp after the rain stops so the pile can breathe. An 8-inch layer of straw mulch spread over the top of the pile serves the same purpose.

Alternate layers until the pile is 5 feet high by 5 feet wide by whatever length you choose. A properly made pile that is loosely packed and well aerated will reach an internal temperature of 160 degrees within a few days. It should smell like wet hay. If the pile fails to heat up, pull it apart and redo it by adding layers of fresh green matter. If the pile becomes anaerobic (is too wet to aerate), pull it apart, let it dry out, use it as mulch and start a new pile.

After three weeks, the pile will have shrunk in size; this is normal. Dig into the pile with a spading fork and completely turn it over until the contents are redistributed; the idea is to put unfermented particles in contact with those that are further along. Let the pile rest, so the temperature will rise again. Turn it a second time five weeks later, let it rest a few weeks and, with luck, you'll have a rich, crumbly pile of "black gold."

Also, air is vital to any composting process. Without air (anaerobic) composting is possible but unpleasant with the putrescent of rotting material assaulting your nose. It is usually because there is too much nitrogen and too little air in the mixture. If you have an abundance of trees on your property, autumn leaves can be plentiful and messy, but they are there for your use and can be easily gathered and stored in leaf bags.

Timing is crucial. Your pile is fully composted when it fails to heat up after being turned. Then it is ready to use. And use it with a good feeling, for it is your garden's natural fuel. Remember your objective, the foundation of every successful garden, is to achieve healthy soil.

Compost supplies the soil with a rich, friable source of humus and helps retain moisture in the garden, in addition to supplying valuable nutrients. By placing grass clippings, fallen leaves and unused plant parts in a compost pile, you are preparing them, through decomposition, to be put back to work for you.

Composting actually recycles garden waste and returns the nutrients that have been taken from the soil. By using organic composting agents, it is possible to speed-up the process of decomposition.

Making Leafmould

Autumn can be a lovely time of year but the work involved in clearing up all the dropped leaves can be a chore each year. However, there is a benefit to be had – they make a fabulous free source of organic matter. Leafmould is ideal for use as a soil improver, mulch or potting compost. Simply fill black polythene bags with wet leaves and tie a knot in the top. Puncture a few holes in the sides and place the sack behind the garden shed for a year. Next autumn the rich organic material can be used to improve the soil and mulch the surface after planting.

Using Green Manures

Green manures are short-term crops that are specifically grown to be dug back into the soil, adding organic matter and nutrients. The main advantages of growing green manures are:

• To help break-up heavy soils and improve drainage
• To suppress weeds
• To add organic matter to the soil to improve its structure and fertility
• To help make nutrients available to plants that are grown in the soil afterwards
• To prevent nutrients being washed through the soil in winter
• To protect the soil from compaction caused by heavy rains

Green manures can be either broadcast sown (thrown randomly) or sown in rows. Prepare the ground as you would for any other crop. Just as soon as a green manure has put on some growth it is worth digging in. However, the longer you leave it the greater the benefits.

Most green manures should be dug in before they flower and set seed or before the stems go woody. Dig the green manure into the top 6ins of soil. This is where it will decompose most quickly. Cut the green manure a few hours before digging so that the top growth wilts. Use a sharp spade, shears, nylon-line trimmer or even a rotary mower to chop down the green manure, and then incorporate everything (including the roots) into the soil as you dig. Leave three weeks after digging in a green manure before planting or sowing the same ground.

The main drawback with green manures is that nothing else can be grown in that area whilst it is growing so it is best to choose an attractive, useful plant such as Lupins.

There is a range of good green manure crops; which you choose will depend on when you intend to sow it and how long you are prepared to leave it growing before incorporating it into your soil.

Types of Green Manures

TENDING THE GARDEN

You’ve spent quite a bit time and effort to make sure your garden is laid out in the most promising way and considering how best to grow that garden organically. Now you need to take care of your plot.

Plants need light and water to grow. The light is already taken care of by Mother Nature; you have to take care of the water!

Watering

Watering the garden every evening after dinner can be good therapy for the gardener, but it's not good for the plants. When the soil is often sprinkled on top but never deeply soaked, plant roots tend to remain in the damp, upper few inches of soil where they are vulnerable to searing mid-summer heat and drought. Vegetable plants need an average of 2-inches of water a week. Be sure to water thoroughly so the soil is soaked to a depth of 4 to 6-inches. This will encourage roots to grow deep.

Germinating seeds and seedlings need to be kept uniformly moist without being washed away, so water them with a gentle spray every day or two. Developing plants need to be watered deeply, but less often, to encourage deep root growth. Water to a depth of at least 6 inches and then let the surface inch or two completely dry out before watering again.

As a general guideline, garden plants that have been watered properly, and therefore have developed deep roots, need a thorough watering every 5 to 7 days in hot weather.

Hand watering delivers water directly to the plants, thus eliminating waste, but it takes time. Spot check to make sure you are delivering enough water, and be careful to give all areas of the garden adequate coverage.

Sprinklers have the disadvantage of wasting water by watering paths and other open spots in the garden. They also lose water to evaporation and wind drift. Because they wet the foliage, sprinklers also can promote the development of leaf diseases.

However, sprinklers are easier and eliminate the need to stand outside holding a hose for 20 minutes – especially if you have a large garden.

If you use oscillating sprinklers, elevate them above the tallest plants so the water streams are not blocked. To make sure all of your plants are watered, place sprinklers so their patterns overlap. Runoff indicates you need to water at a slower rate.

You can also consider taking a simple garden hose and making your own irrigation system by poking holes in the top of it at uniform angles. Simply place this hose between the rows of plants and move when the watering is done in that particular section.

You should generally water your garden in the early evening when it is cooler. This will reduce the chance of evaporation from the hot sun and heat. Early morning watering is fine, but less effective.

Be wary of over-watering your garden. This can cause your plants to be less successful and produce disappointing yields. Generally, the first few weeks after planting and transplanting and during the development of fruit or storage organs are times when plants may be adversely affected by shortages of water, so water plentifully during these times.

Obviously, Mother Nature will provide you with some of her water as well. Monitor your rain levels and check to be sure that your garden has enough moisture if it has rained to see if you need to add to it.

Fertilizing

Healthy plants that produce a wealth of healthy food can get a well needed boost from some type of fertilizer. Composting can provide this, but there are other ways to fertilize.

One of the best sources of organic fertilizer is animal manure. Cow, chicken, rabbit and horse are among the most readily available in many parts of the world. It is best to use them after they have had a chance to rot for a few years. They provide some plant nutrients, favorable bacteria, humus, better aeration and they help retain more moisture when they are mixed with your garden soil.

Manures are available from dairy farms, riding stables, and poultry farms. Usually you will have to pick them up from these sources. Sometimes firms that deliver soils or mulches will also stock and deliver one or two types of fresh or well-rotted animal manures. A check of the want-ad section of the newspaper will often reveal additional sources of supply.

If you use fresh manures, they are best applied in the autumn, as they are apt to burn or retard plants if they are applied during the spring, growing season. Well-rotted manures can be used in the spring. You should apply the fertilizer around the base of the plant.

You can use either fresh or rotted manure to make a liquid-tea to feed plants. The tea is usually made of one part of manure and ten parts of water. Let it set for several days before you use it then spray directly on the plant.

The process-dried manures are often available at garden shops and can be used for top-dressing or they may be mixed into the planting soil. Fish meal, blood meal, bone meal, animal manures, cottonseed meal and processed sewage sludge are organic sources for nitrogen fertilizer. Phosphate rock and bone meal are the two organic fertilizers used to supply phosphorus. Wood ashes and rock potash are the two main sources of organic potassium.

Your local garden department will generally stock any of the above organic fertilizers. You can also make your own fertilizer. Look in our recipe section!

Lime is ground, natural rock containing large amounts of calcium, and there are three types. Agricultural lime is relatively pure calcium carbonate. Gypsum is calcium sulfate and is included because sulfur is a vital plant nutrient. Dolomite, or dolomitic lime, contains both calcium and magnesium carbonates, usually in more or less equal amounts. If you have to choose one kind, it probably should be dolomite, but you'll get a better result using all three types. These substances are not expensive if bought in large sacks from agricultural suppliers.

Organic fertilizers are much more conducive to the environment and the health value of our foods than the traditional chemical fertilizers. Why?

Organic fertilizers, manures and composts release their nutrient content only as they decompose -- as they are slowly broken down by the complex ecology of living creatures in the soil. Complete decomposition of most organic fertilizers takes around two months in warm soil. During that time, they steadily release nutrients.

With non-organic fertilizers, overdosing can be a real problem. They are so strong that it's easy for inexperienced gardeners to cross the line between just enough and too much. Yet, despite their strength, inexpensive blends are incomplete. They supply only nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Unless the manufacturer intentionally adds other essential minerals, the chemical mix won't supply them. Chemical fertilizers rarely contain calcium or magnesium, which plants need in large amounts along with tiny traces of several other minerals.

Inexpensive chemical fertilizers dissolve quickly in soil. This usually results in a rapid burst of plant growth, followed five or six weeks later by a big sag requiring yet another application. Should it rain hard, the chemicals dissolved in the soil water will be transported as deeply into the earth as the water penetrates (this is called "leaching"), so deep that the plant's roots can't reach them. With one heavy rain or one too-heavy watering, your fertile topsoil becomes infertile. The chemicals also can pollute groundwater. The risk of leaching is especially great in soils that contain little or no clay.

Chemical fertilizers can be made to be "slow-release," but these sorts cost several times as much as those that dissolve rapidly in water.

You should fertilize your plants once every three to four weeks. You will want to pay attention to how your plants are doing and fertilize accordingly. Some plants need more fertilization attention than others.

Beans, peas, and carrots are among the low demand vegetables for fertilizing. They need fewer requirements for additional nutrients than the medium demand plants. Most garden plants are medium demand plants. These would include tomatoes, corn, squash, cabbage and peppers. Be careful not to over-fertilize these plants. Some high demand vegetables are artichokes, cauliflower, turnips, and spinach. High-demand vegetables are sensitive, delicate species and usually will not thrive unless grown in light, loose and always-moist soil that provides the highest level of nutrition.

Of course, you need to stay on top of the weeding to insure your plants have enough room to grow and that those weeds don’t steal away their food! We suggest tending the garden at the same time every day. Morning would be best since it is cooler during the summer and you won’t have to bear the oppressive heat. Don’t let the weeds take control. This is why we recommend doing so every day so that you won’t have a huge job if you neglect it for a week or so.

Taking care of a garden might require you to get on your hands and knees to pull weeds from the middle of your bean plants or cabbage rows, so do this. It’ll save stress on your back and, of course, bring you closer to the natural environment that is your organic garden!

Then just sit back and wait for the benefits of your garden – fresh produce! Of course, the successful gardener knows that once cold weather arrives, their job isn’t quite done.

WINTERING YOUR GARDEN

Never leave your soil bare over the winter, because it will lose organic matter through oxidation. Plant a green manure at the end of the harvest and let them die over the winter, or cover the garden with leaves and straw. As soon as the ground freezes, mulch perennial herbs and flowers heavily to keep frost from heaving them out of the ground. Pull the mulch off in early spring to let the ground become warm and dry.

Once you have harvested all the fruit you can and your plants have gone dormant, dig in all the plants. This will provide the soil with organic material to nurture it for next year.

Apply a thick layer of your compost and dig again. It’s a good idea to dig one more time prior to planting when the ground isn’t frozen, of course. By doing this, you’ll gain control of any possible weed problems, plus you’ll be working in more compost to make the soil prime for planting next spring.

Now let’s look at those recipes we promised you!

RECIPES FOR YOUR ORGANIC GARDEN

You don’t have to purchase commercially produced organic products for your garden. Many can be made by you with a minimum of effort. Of course, you’ll have to buy the ingredients, but we can assure you that in the long run, it’ll be much cheaper than buying those other products.

Organic Fertilizer

To concoct the fertilizer mix, measure out all materials by volume: that is, by the scoop, bucketful, jarful, etc. Proportions that vary by 10 percent either way will be close enough, but do not attempt to make this formula by weight. An old 5-gallon plastic bucket will allow you to stir up about 14 quarts. Mix uniformly, in parts by volume:

• 4 parts seed meal
• 1/4 part ordinary agricultural lime, best finely ground
• 1/4 part gypsum (or double the agricultural lime)
• 1/2 part dolomitic lime
• 1 part bone meal, rock phosphate or manure
• 1/2 to 1 part kelp meal (or 1 part basalt dust)

Farm feed and grain dealers are the best sources for large bags of seed meals, which are typically used to feed livestock. The other ingredients usually can be found at garden shops, although they probably will be sold in smaller quantities at higher prices per pound. You may find the best prices by mail order or on the Internet.

Garlic Pest Control Spray

Many cultures around the world have used garlic as a natural antibiotic and anti-fungal remedy. When garlic is combined with mineral oil and soap, it becomes a very effective pest control product. However, when it is sprayed, it is not a selective insecticide. It can be used to control cabbageworm, leafhoppers, squash bugs, whitefly, but will also affect beneficial insects so be careful where and when you apply this product.

• 3 ounces finely chopped garlic
• 2 tsp mineral oil
• 1 pint water
• ¼ ounce liquid dish soap

Allow the garlic to soak in the mineral oil for 24 hours. Add water and liquid dish soap. Stir well and strain into a glass jar for storage. This is your concentrate.

To use: Combine 1-2 tablespoons of concentrate in 1 pint of water to make the spray. Do be careful not to make the solution too strong. While garlic is safe for humans, when combined with oil & soap, the mixture can cause leaf injury on sensitive plants. Always test the lower leaves of plants first to make sure they aren't affected.

Dormant Oil

The purpose of an oily spray is to suffocate over wintering pests, such as aphids and mites. Most commercial products are made of kerosene or other petroleum oil. A much less toxic and more sustainable approach is to use a renewable resource such as vegetable oil.

• 1 cup vegetable oil
• 2 tbsp liquid soap
• 1 gallon water

Combine the soap and oil and stir to blend thoroughly. Add the water a bit at a time, stirring as you go (water and oil don’t really emulsify; the soap helps the process). Pour the mixture into a clean garden spray container. Spray a coat of the mixture over the entire plant. Shake the container frequently as you are spraying. This recipe makes 1 gallon.

Homemade Insecticidal Soap

Soap has been used for centuries as an all-purpose pesticide. It disrupts insects’ cell membranes, and kills pests by dehydration. The key is not to use too much soap, or you’ll also kill the vegetation near the pests. If you follow the proportions of soap to water in the Soap Spray recipe, below, the vegetation should be fine.

• 1 to 2 tablespoons liquid soap (not detergent)
• 1 quart water

Combine ingredients in a bucket, mix, then transfer to a spray bottle as needed.

All Purpose Pesticide Soap Spray

Strong smelling roots and spices such as garlic, onions, horseradish, ginger, rhubarb leaves, cayenne and other hot peppers, are all known to repel insects.

• A handful of roots and spices
• Boiling water to cover the roots and spices
• Soap Spray (recipe, above)

Add the roots and spices to the bottom of a mason jar. Cover with the boiling water, screw on the top, and let set overnight. Strain, and add to the Soap Spray. Note that this will rot, so use it all up or freeze leftovers for another time.

Place into a spray bottle and apply to the plants to control pests

Bug Juice

Although it seems a bit macabre, consider using bug juice to fight pests. Some scientists believe that pheromones from blended insects send a warning to their living relatives. While this has been tested, it isn’t a fool-proof method, but it’s something worth trying!

• 1/2 cup of pesky insects
• Water

Place the insects in an old blender with enough water to make a thick solution. Blend on high and strain out the pulp using cheesecloth or a fine sieve. Dilute at a rate of 1/4 cup bug juice to 1 cup of water, pour into a spray bottle, and apply to plants.

CONCLUSION

Gardening in any form is therapeutic and relaxing not to mention a way to enjoy success as you bite into the first ripe tomato of the season. When you choose to go organic, you are making a choice to protect the environment as well as your family when you grow your own food.

While most of this book has been directed toward vegetable gardens, the same concepts can be applied to flower gardens. Going organic is so important to the Earth as we need to preserve our natural resources and insure we have a healthy place to live.

Try getting your children involved in gardening as well. Nurturing plants from seed to harvest inevitably leads to increased feelings of confidence, self-esteem and pride. One only has to see the beaming face of a child who has harvested their first carrot to appreciate the value of this experience. The child becomes empowered and motivated by the realization that hard work and patience produce concrete, satisfying results.

Consider providing your child with his or her own garden plot. Don’t make it too big and plant a few different types of vegetables. We would suggest a tomato plant, a carrot plant, a couple of beans, and perhaps a watermelon. You will be teaching your child valuable, valuable lessons as they tend to their own garden and experience the “fruits” of their own labors! For some children gardening may offer merely the excitement of watching seeds grow and harvesting the bounty. For others it offers the opportunity to develop skills they would build on as adults, leading possibly to a rewarding hobby or career.

Above all, gardening is fun and is a skill that, once acquired, can be a lifelong companion. It is not a skill that must be mastered to be enjoyed, and it is extremely adaptable to diverse needs and abilities.

Organic gardening, however, is so much more satisfying. The soil that feeds us is something we should think about every day. The way we treat that soil is something else we should consider – every single day.

The life cycle is a beautiful thing and all creatures were put here for a reason – even the garden pests! Natural people want that natural cycle to keep rotating.

The health benefits of organic gardening are many, but the emotional benefits are so much more. By going organic, you will know that you are doing everything you can not only for Mother Earth, but also for your family. We should all strive for the natural pleasures that we have been given.

And yes, growing things in the dirt is one of them! Happy gardening!

DOWNLOAD YOUR OWN COPY OF "HOW TO BECOME AN ORGANIC GARDENER" BY CLICKING THIS LINK

Where possible this book has been written for both the U.S. and U.K. markets and climate conditions but there may be products and / or methods which cannot be transcribed from one continent to the other.

The following websites were referenced in researching this article:

• www.wikipedia.org
• www.theorganicgardener.com
• www.organicgardeningtips.com
• www.goingorganic.com

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