Looking after your lawn in Winter

Try to rest the lawn as much as possible during winter. If practical keep off when wet or frosty, as the grass plants are not actively growing; they will not repair themselves if damaged until the spring.

Mowing

Only mow the lawn if necessary; this will depend upon weather conditions and temperatures at the time. Do not mow if heavy frosts are expected or if the ground is very wet.

Clear leaves and debris

Use a light rake or brush to keep the lawn free of leaves and debris. Specialist leaf sweepers and lawn vacuums are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns; although in winter it is better to keep off with heavier machines.

Aeration

Aerate consolidated areas of the lawn with a hand fork or with a spiking machine. These are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns. This will relieve compaction, improve drainage and allow more air into the root system leading to a healthier lawn.

Dealing with worms

Remember worms improve the nutrient content of a soil and are beneficial to the soil structure. Worm casts are best left to dry and then swept or brushed away with a stiff brush.

As leaves fall from the trees use a light rake or brush to keep the lawn free of leaves and debris.

Service mower

Service or replace your mower if necessary ready for the next growing season. As always make sure that the blades are in good condition and are sharp.

This advice is courtesy of Rolawn Direct

Looking after your lawn in Autumn

Autumn is an important season for taking care of your lawn. It is important to use the last months of the growing season to strengthen and prepare the lawn for the rigours of winter. The effort put into a lawn in autumn will improve the quality and health of the lawn right through into the following Spring and beyond.

Mowing

As the days grow shorter and the temperatures begin to fall the rate at which the grass grows will slow, meaning that the lawn will need mowing less frequently. It is also a good idea to raise the height of cut as winter approaches. As always maintain your mower in good condition and keep the blades sharp.

Apply an Autumn Lawn Food

This gives the lawn the essential nutrients it needs to strengthen itself for winter. As autumn progresses damp still conditions can lead to diseases such as fusarium patch. Applying Rolawn GroRight Autumn Lawn Food in early autumn will help combat these by strengthening the grass plants as well as giving your lawn an attractive green colour. You can buy Rolawn Lawn Food online now.

Overseeding

Depending upon the wear and tear which your lawn has received over the previous months you may want to overseed the lawn in early autumn. Rolawn recommends a mix of our Medallion lawn seed with our Lawn Topdressing brushed into the surface of the lawn. The seed will germinate ahead of winter and give a thicker, denser lawn the following season.

Topdressing

If your lawn has become uneven then topdressing will even out any low areas. A rate of 1 – 3 kg per square metre will be sufficient when brushed into the lawn surface especially in lower areas. It is a good idea to add our Medallion Lawn seed to a topdressing to help fill in any thin areas It is always best to carry out topdressing when the lawn is dry. Topdressing also helps break down thatch and aids drainage. You can buy our quality Medallion lawn seed online now.

Aeration

Aerate consolidated areas of the lawn with a hand fork or with a spiking machine. These are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns. This will relieve compaction, improve drainage and allow more air into the root system leading to a healthier lawn.

Dealing with worms

Remember worms improve the nutrient content of a soil and are beneficial to the soil structure. Worm casts are best left to dry and then swept or brushed away with a stiff brush. Clear the lawn of leaves and debris As leaves start to fall from the trees use a light rake or brush to keep the lawn free of leaves and debris. Specialist leaf sweepers and lawn vacuums are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns.

Scarification

Scarification reduces the build up of dead grass matter, roots and moss which can cause increased stress to the grass plants. Scarification can be done using a spring-tine rake by vigorously pulling the rake through the grass sward. Electric scarifiers are also available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores.

Broadleaf weed treatment

Broad leaved weeds should be treated using a suitable selective herbicide. Alternatively weed them out by hand or using a knife / mechanical weeder remembering to get the root of the weed out.

Dealing with moss

If moss is a problem on your lawn you will need to scarify it out. You may also consider applying moss-killer product before scarifying. This will help to kill and remove more of the moss, allow the moss to turn brown/black before scarifying. After this it may be appropriate to overseed using Medallion lawn seed if taking the moss out leaves the lawn thin in some areas.

This advice come courtesy of Rolawn Direct

Looking after your lawn in Summer

Mowing

As temperatures hot up and we move into summer the growth of your lawn may actually start to slow down, mow as and when necessary never taking more than one third of the length of the plant off in any one cut. As always a sharp mower is essential. If temperatures become very hot your lawn will become stressed and it may be necessary to cut back on the frequency of mowing.

Feeding

It will not be necessary to feed your lawn during summer, however a feed with a spring lawn food in late spring will give it everything it needs to see it through the summer.

Watering

Summer is the time when drought can occur and a lawn can turn brown and straw coloured. Before addressing this problem the first thing to say is that well-maintained lawns will invariably recover once the rains return. Good maintenance at other times of the year, aeration and appropriate feeding will help rooting and the lawn’s ability to withstand and recover from periods of drought. If possible, avoidance is better than cure and the only way to prevent drought is to water the lawn. If you can water it is best to do this at the first signs of drought, when the grass is still green but starting to show signs of stress (little growth and a dulling of the normal bright green coloration). If you can water try to do this evenly. Also irrigate at times when the water is more likely to soak in. The general rule here is early morning or in the evening, which probably suits most homeowners. Remember to follow any local regulations when using water in summer. If your lawn does suffer from drought then mow as little as possible, the lawn won’t be growing rapidly and it will stress the lawn unnecessarily.

Broadleaf Weed Treatment

Broad leaved weeds should be treated using a suitable selective herbicide. Alternatively weed them out by hand or using a knife / mechanical weeder remembering to get the root of the weed out.

Enjoy your Lawn

Looking after and maintaining a beautiful lawn is a rewarding experience and past time. The results speak for themselves and are there for all to see. A grass surface is also one of the safest surfaces for you and your family to enjoy.

There are other benefits to having a beautiful lawn for example it is believed that standing barefoot on grass is a multi-sensory experience. It triggers within us deeply rooted associations with the smell and sound of nature and the vision of dense greenery.

Dealing with Lawn Pests

The most common lawn pests, Chafer Grubs and Leatherjackets, can cause significant damage to lawns. If you notice patches of poorly growing, yellowing grass check for signs of grubs feeding on the grass roots. These pests can be easily and safely controlled by applying a suitable nematode based product. Rolawn Chafer Grub Killer should be applied from mid-July through to late October. The optimum time of year to apply Rolawn Leatherjacket Killer is from August through to late October.

This advice comes courtesy of Rolawn Direct

Looking after your lawn in Spring

Spring is a very important season for looking after your lawn. After the rigours of winter it needs careful attention as soon as the days start to lengthen and the grass starts to grow. Giving the lawn the care it needs now will ensure the best possible results throughout the year.

Mowing
As the grass starts to grow you will need to start to mow your lawn. It is very important in early spring that you set the mowing height quite high taking no more that one quarter of the length of the plant off at a time otherwise the lawn will become stressed. A little and often approach is better in spring. As the grass grows faster as we move further into spring increase the mowing frequency and gradually reduce the height of cut to give the desired finish.

Apply a Spring Lawn Food
This gives the lawn the essential nutrients it needs over the spring period. Rolawn recommends applying a spring lawn food in early spring and then again six weeks later. The grass plants are growing rapidly at this time and like any living thing need the correct nutrients in the correct quantities in order to grow strong and healthy. Healthy plants mean a thicker denser sward and Rolawn Groright Spring Lawn Food will also give an attractive green colour to your lawn. Click here to buy quality spring lawn food online now.

Overseeding
Depending upon the wear and tear that the lawn has received over the previous months you may want to overseed the lawn in early Spring. Rolawn recommends a mix of our Medallion Lawn Seed with our Lawn Topdressing brushed into the surface of the lawn. The seed will germinate and fill in any sparse or thinner areas. Using Medallion Lawn Seed will add the highest rated cultivars to any lawn giving a thicker, denser sward.

Topdressing
If your lawn has become uneven then topdressing will even out any low areas. A rate of 1 – 3 kg per square metre will be sufficient when brushed into the lawn surface especially in lower areas. It is a good idea to add our Medallion Lawn seed to a topdressing to help fill in any thin areas. It is always best to carry out topdressing when the lawn is dry. Topdressing also helps break down thatch and aids drainage. Click here to buy topdressing online now.

Aeration
Aerate consolidated areas of the lawn with a hand fork or with a spiking machine. These are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns. This will relieve compaction, improve drainage and allow more air into the root system leading to a healthier lawn.

Scarification
Scarification reduces the build up of dead grass matter, roots and moss which can cause increased stress to the grass plants. Scarification can be done using a spring-tine rake by vigorously pulling the rake through the grass sward. Electric scarifiers are also available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores.

Broadleaf weed treatment.
Broad leaved weeds should be treated using a suitable selective herbicide. Alternatively weed them out by hand or using a knife / mechanical weeder remembering to get the root of the weed out.

Dealing with moss.
If moss is a problem on your lawn you will need to scarify it out. You may also consider applying moss-killer product before scarifying. This will help to kill and remove more of the moss, allow the moss to turn brown/black before scarifying. After this it may be appropriate to overseed using Medallion lawn seed if taking the moss out leaves the lawn thin in some areas.

Treatment of weed grasses
Undesirable weed grasses can appear in a lawn. They will be obvious as they will appear to be different to the rest of the grass sward. Grasses such as Poa Annua are endemic in the northern hemisphere; if you notice seed heads forming from pale ‘stalky’ plants then these are likely to be Poa Annua. If required these can be removed by cutting the plant out and removing the roots. Fill in the area with a mix of Rolawn Lawn Top Dressing and Medallion lawn seed as any bare patches are likely to encourage the growth of more Poa plants as it is very common in the UK and the seeds will invade any bare ground.

The key to preventing weed grasses is a good maintenance regime. A vigorous, dense and healthy growing lawn will out compete many of the weed grasses. This can be achieved with regular feeding with a quality lawn food, regular mowing with a sharp mower and overseeding any thinner patches if necessary. During spring if Poa Annua seed heads are forming it can also help to use a mower which collects the clippings and therefore removes some of the seed heads.

This advice comes courtesy of Rolawn Direct

Weedkiller

Question:

I recently got involved has a volunteer in creating a community garden for elderly people the area we have was very overgrown we have now hacked it all to the ground with strimmers etc. but I have a idea that the weeds etc. will soon shoot up again.

I would like some advice on a good economical weedkiller has its a large area somebody mentioned something called weed matting is this easy to lay and expensive or inexpensive and above all effective and would that enable a lawn to be laid on top.

Answer:

It looks like you’ve taken on a massive job here but I’m sure it will be worth while in the end.

There are a few ways to remove the weeds. The first, and the hardest, is to dig over the whole area and remove the weeds by hand. Don’t be tempted to use a rotavator because this will chop up and spread perennial weed roots far and wide, making the weed problem much worse.

Leave the land for a few weeks during which time any annual weed seeds left will germinate and these can be removed by hand. Don’t add them to the compost heap as perennial weed seeds will remain in the soil.

If you don’t fancy digging, wait until new weed shoots appear and apply weedkiller containing glyphosate. I’ve done a bit of research and found the following weedkillers which sound good. You should be able to get them at your local garden centre or DIY store:

• Weedol 2 – An economical weedkiller that can be used all round the garden except on lawns, unless you want to kill them. Weedol doesn’t harm the soil so seeding or planting can be carried out immediately after treatment. Young green suckers of roses, lilac and plums can also be killed without harming the rootstock. Effective at any time of the year, Weedol is rainproof in 10 minutes. Contains diquat. Keep away from children and pets. 12 sachet carton treats 204m.
• Roundup Weedkiller – will completely kill all weeds and roots. Children and pets don’t need to be excluded from treated areas as it is biodegradable and starts to break down as soon as it touches the soil. It contains the chemical glyphosate and includes measuring cap for easy measuring. Do not use on lawns or other wanted plants as it will kill everything plant it touches. 280ml treats 280m.

Here are a few general rules to bear in mind when using weedkiller:

• Read the manufacturer’s instructions to be sure you are using the right weedkiller for the job
• Keep weedkiller off plants that you want to keep
• Dissolve/dilute the weedkiller according to instructions on the packaging and apply weeds using a fine rose (sprinkler head) on a watering can which you only use for weedkiller
• Don’t apply on a windy day because weedkillers can drift onto other plants
• The most effective time to apply weedkillers is when weeds are leafy and growing actively, mid-spring to early summer is ideal
• Keep weedkillers in a safe place, out of reach from children and pets. When empty, dispose of them carefully.

Not all weeds will die so repeat applications may be needed.

The final method to control weeds is to cover the ground with sheets of black plastic or old carpet. Emerging weed shoots won’t get any light and will starve and die. This may take a couple of years to be 100 per cent effective. You will be able to lay your lawn over the area once all the weeds have died. You may need to weed and feed the lawn after the first year to ensure new weeds don’t take hold.

For areas which are not going to be lawned you will need to ensure the weeds don’t come back. To help keep them to a minimum add a mulch of bark, compost, manure, gravel or slate. In addition you can also use a weed-proof membrane which is made of woven polypropylene. Lay this on top of the soil and add the mulch on top of that. Plant through the membrane by cutting crosses in the material. Again, the membrane will be available at your local garden centre or DIY store.

The 12 Step Beginners Guide to Pruning

Not all shrubs require pruning but you may want to consider it in order to shape the plant, to encourage vigorous growth, flowering or fruit production or to remove dead, damaged or diseased material.

Here is a beginners guide to pruning:

1. Pruning is best carried out immediately after flowering to ensure a good display the following year but a general pruning in Autumn is also usual particularly for roses
2. Always cut at a downward angle to allow rain to fall away and not sit on the cut
3. Pruning to remove spent flower heads is always a good idea as it stops the plant spending energy producing seed
4. Always use good quality, sharp, clean tools
5. Cut out dead or diseased stems right down to where they reach the roots or main stem
6. Take out any stems that cross over other stems as they will eventually join together and cause injury which can let in disease
7. Take a look at the plant and decide what size and shape you want and bear this is mind throughout the pruning process
8. Take a stem and starting at the tip look along it’s length to where it reaches the base. The “nodes” you see along the length are where either leaves, new stems or flowers will appear; you won’t know in advance which of these it will be
9. By pruning just before a node (i.e. before when looking from the tip to the base) you stimulate a chemical at the node which tells the plant to shoot out from there and produce a flower, leaf or another stem
10. If you prune after a node the chances are that the stem will die back from the end down to the next node and may even continue down the stem
11. To hard prune, count the number of nodes up the stem from the base; you should leave at least two nodes to allow for die-back so pruning just before the third node is usually ideal; this type of pruning produces new growth and reinvigorates the plant
12. For an annual prune when you just want to keep the shrub in shape so you should cut just above the node needed to maintain the shape; this type of pruning usually produces flowers and new leaves the following season

Next you can find out more about pruning specific types of plants:

Evergreens – During May cut out dead, weak or crossing branches and remove extra branches if the shrub is overcrowded. Examples: Camellia, Pieris, Rhododendron -

Early Flowering Deciduous Shrubs – Immediately after flowering cut out dead, weak or crossing branches and remove extra branches if the shrub is overcrowded. Cut back all branches which have flowered this year. Examples: Forsythia, Weigela, Deutzia, Philadelphus

Later Flowering Deciduous Shrubs – During January to March before the new growth appears cut out dead, weak or crossing branches and remove extra branches if the shrub is overcrowded. Cut back all old wood to the ground. Examples: Buddleia, Hypericum, Cornus

Damaged or Diseased Trees – Identify the diseased or damaged branches and cut back to healthy, clean wood.

Clematis

Group 1 – these are small-flowered species which flower in early spring on last season’s growth Immediately after flowering remove dead or damaged stems, and reduce other stems if needed. To renovate an older plant cut back to 15-30cm (6-12in) from the base immediately after flowering

Group 2 – large-flowered, flowering May-June on the previous year’s growth. Some flower again in summer on current season’s growth. Remove dead and damaged stems in early spring before growth begins, trimming all remaining stems to a pair of strong buds. To rejuvenate a mature specimen remove old shoots during spring

Group 3 – flowers late summer on current season’s growth. Cut back all growth to a pair of strong buds 15-20cm (6-8in) above soil level, before growth begins in early spring

Barbecue Safety

One of the main activities of the summer is barbecuing and there’s nothing better than sitting out in the sun with a cold drink and some delicious hot food!

Barbecue food usually consists mainly of meat and often in large quantities. It is also often prepared by people who do not regularly cook such food and so are not always aware of the amount of time needed to ensure the meat is cooked safely.

Following this advice should ensure that the food served is safe to eat.

Meat:

• Defrost all meats thoroughly
• Keep meat in the fridge until needed
• Keep cooked and uncooked meat completely separate
• Cut the meat into small portions before cooking
• Pre-cook chicken to ensure the middle gets cooked properly
• Use separate utensils for cooked and raw food
• Make sure that the meat is cooked through by testing a piece or by using a meat thermometer (see Amazon advert below)
• Keep the heat low to prevent burning the outside before the inside is cooked
• Serve meat immediately after cooking

Salads:

• Keep ingredients covered and refrigerated until needed
• Minimise the use of “high risk” ingredients such as home-made mayonnaise, ham, shell-fish and eggs

Hygiene:

• Have a bowl of warm, soapy water handy for washing hands between cooking
• Keep all utensils on a clean tray or table away from the food
• Make sure the cook wears an apron and uses clean towels

Your own personal safety is another important consideration when barbecuing. You should take the following sensible precautions:

• Set the barbecue up on a level surface away from plants, fences or flammable materials
• Never pour petrol or lighter fuel on to the barbecue
• Use kindling and fire lighters if necessary
• Keep a bucket of water handy incase of fires
• Avoid wearing loose clothing which may catch in the flames
• Make sure the fire is out when you have finished the barbecue
• Use a plant sprayer to douse flames from dripping fat
• Use long handled tools and thick oven gloves

How do I take cuttings from Peony and Rhododendron?

Question:

My late father has a Peony Rose and a Rhododendron and I want to take cuttings from these to give to other family members before the house is sold. Can you advise.

Answer:

It is extremely difficult to take cuttings of Peony and are best propagating by division. Carefully clear away the soil around a portion of root and cut pieces away with some root and at least one growth bud for each plant needed. Place into a pot with good quality compost and keep well watered until established.

Rhododendrons are also difficult to root successfully so to give it as much help as possible remove a thin slice of bark near the base of the stem when you take the cutting. Dip the wounded end in hormone rooting compound before potting in a good quality potting compost.

Cuttings should really be taken in the Spring or Autumn so if you can leave it a few weeks before taking yours it would be better. If you have to do it soon then ensure the cuttings get some sort of protection from cold, winds and frost.

How can I train my Jasmine?

Question:

I have a jasmine which has been planted by the front door and have been trying to train it over the door but to be honest I’ve no idea what I’m doing. It has been there 12 years and has many trunks if you know what I mean. I don’t know if I should be cutting some of them out or what growth to cut out. As you can guess I’m a novice gardener.

Answer:

The first thing we need to do is establish which plant you have.

There are two main types of Jasmine, one flowers in Winter/Spring the other flowers in the summer and they need to be treated differently.

The most well known jasmine is Jasminum officinale which has white or cream flowers in the summer and is highly scented. It is most likely that your plant is this one as it is often planted by doorways to appreciate the scent. It don’t mind a little shade but the sun will bring out the scent; it should also be in a sheltered position. It can grow to 12m which makes them ideal for training over an arch but it can take over if it isn’t kept in check. You have two options at this point; prune it back and hope it recovers or get rid of it and start again.

If you want to try to rejuvenate it then follow these steps but bear in mind that all hard pruning can be risky and in most likelihood it will not flower this year:

• This work should be done during February or March but not if frost is expected

• First cut out any dead or really old stems right down to the base

• Cut down any remaining main stems to about 18”

• Cut back any stems growing out from the main stem to about 6”

• If possible remove the top layer of soil from around the base and replace with new top soil or compost

• Water well and top off with a thick layer of well rotted compost (this is called mulch)

• Keep well watered during dry spells

• Fertilise with a general fertiliser in the spring

Once the plant is cut down you will be able to see the trellis or arch so check that it is still sound and if not replace or repair it. Once the plant begins to grow you must regularly tie in the new growth to fill in any gaps up the trellis and keep tying them in right up to the top of the arch (don’t tie in too tight, leave some room for growth). Once the stems get too long just cut them to the length you want. Cut out or shorten any shoots which begin to grow outwards from the main plant to ensure that it doesn’t get too wide. When making your cuts always cut just above a “node” with a slanting cut. A node is a “join” on the stem, once cut, this join produces a new stem or a flower bud. Cutting below the “node” means you are cutting off the chance for a new flower or stem. The thing is that you want to produce a plant that you like the look of so if something doesn’t look good to you then cut it out or cut it down and let it re-grow to the shape and size you want.

Plants that grow close to a house, wall, or fence never get enough water from rain alone so need to be watered regularly particularly during dry spells, when it is developing buds or after a hard prune. Always keep a good layer of mulch on the surface of the soil which will help keep moisture in the soil and help stop weeds developing. Fertilise with a general fertiliser once a month from spring through to autumn.

If your plant flowers in Winter/Spring with yellow flowers then it is a Winter Flowering Jasmine which means that it develops it’s buds during the summer/autumn and therefore should not be pruned during the autumn or winter otherwise all the flowers will be lost. All pruning needs to take place once the flowers have gone over which is usually around April or May. They are very good for training over an arch but they only reach 2.5m so will not cover a large area. They like the sun but do not mind some shade. Follow the same steps as above but carry out the work in late spring or summer.

There is another plant, Trachelospermum, which has scented jasmine-like flowers and is often known as star jasmine. It is evergreen so if your plant does not keep it’s leaves in the winter then this isn’t the one you have. It is an excellent climber for a sunny, sheltered spot but does not survive outside in all areas. If you think this is your plant then let me know and I’ll let you know how to deal with it.

Tritonia Rubrolucens and Hippeastrum (Amaryllis)

Question:

Could you please tell me how best to deal with the foliage of “Tritunia rudrolucens” and “Hipeastrum advenum”now that the flowers have finally died off, leaving climps of foliage 12 to 18 inches high.

Answer:

Do you mean Tritonia rubrolucens and Hippeastrum (Amaryllis)? If so here is how to deal with each of them. If these are not the plants you are enquiring about could you please double check the spellings and get back to me.

Hippeastrum or commonly known as Amaryllis are usually grown as an indoor plant for Christmas; with some care you can get these to re-flower year after year. Here’s how: stop watering and put the plants in their pots into a frost free place for the summer. They will usually die back within a couple of months but if you want to you can cut back the foliage. Keep them dormant until about October at which time you can bring them into a light position indoors and begin feeding and watering. With a bit of luck they will re-flower for Christmas next year.

Tritonia are similar to Crocosmia but are not very hardy so they should only be grown outdoors in mild area. If yours are outdoors and have started to die back cover the top of the plant with a good layer of mulch to allow them to die back and to keep them warm throughout the rest of the winter. If you grew them indoors then I suggest moving the pots into a frost free shed or greenhouse to let them dry out and for the foliage to die down. You can either leave them as they are until next autumn when you can redress the pots, water and bring indoors to flower. Alternatively, once the plants have dried out remove the compost from around the corms and leave the corms to dry out completely; next autumn re-plant the corms in fresh compost, water and bring indoors.

Will Cherry Tree Suckers Produce Fruit?

Question:

Will suckers picked from the roots of newly planted fruit cherry trees grow into normal fruit producing trees or will they produce inferior fruit?

Answer:

Cherries with their own roots will grow into very large trees making them unsuitable for smaller gardens. Here in the UK, and I assume in Australia fruit trees, including cherries, are grafted onto rootstocks which limits their size and also helps to encourage earlier fruiting.

The most common rootstock here in the UK is ‘Colt’ and it results in manageable sized trees ideal for small gardens. There are other rootstocks available; the label from the tree should tell you which rootstock has been used.

Therefore any suckers which come from the roots will not produce fruit at all and ideally should be gently pulled off as close to the base as possible.

Lavender dentata

Question:

In February I bought a lavender dentata tree which claimed on the label to be hardy to the UK I found out some time later it was not and bought the tree in and planted it in a pot I have put it out during the day has the weather has warmed up but on inspecting the same tree at my garden centre yesterday I think mine is dying the spikes are all drooping downwards and its spikes are brittle the one I saw in my garden centre seem to have the spikes pointing upright and the spikes are soft what I cant understand is when I bought it and on subsequent visits to my garden centre the trees were all outdoors for 24hoursso I unsure where I have gone wrong do you think it can be saved and what steps can I take to resurrect it any help appreciated

Answer:

I’m not sure how your garden centre managed to keep these lavenders outdoors all winter as they are not hardy in the UK. If all the spikes are brittle then I’m afraid it is probably dead. However, if you do have any soft green growth left you can try cutting back to the green parts, keep it indoors for another couple of months and see if it comes back. Don’t cut into the old, woody parts of the plant as it will not survive. Hope this helps and your plant survives.

Getting rid of Weeds

Question:

The house next door to mine is a long term empty property. In its garden it is riddled with 2 weeds one is mare’s tail and the other I don’t know the name of but it is like a route that travels under the surface and every now and then it shoots up just 2 or 3 blades of grass type things. My problems I cannot do anything to stop these 2 weeds coming through into my garden. Next to that garden I have a small patch of tended garden which is turned over and is ready for planting up. But because of the weeds next door there is nothing I can do about it can you help. I have had an idea which I would like to run past you, from what I can see both weeds seem to be just under the surface and I wandered if I dug down a spade deep all along the edge of my side along the perimeter, so as too cut off the roots and then somehow put in a barrier would the mayors tail and other dig its way under the barrier and if not I then can to somehow kill off the rots on my side before planting. I have tried weed killing but to no avail and it gets worse yearly. Please can you help?

Answer:

I’m sorry to hear about your weed problem. I think your suggestion is an excellent idea. Once the barrier is in place it is extremely unlikely that the weeds’ roots will go down far enough to make their way over to your side of the garden. Once you have cut the roots and put the barrier in place I would double check all stray roots are removed from the area, wait a few weeks to see if any new weeds appear. If so then treat the area with a good weedkiller such as Roundup and that should be that.

Fatsia japonica

Question:

I want advice on my Fatsia japonica (false castor oil) that has this year flowered and now has black berries. I read somewhere that the berries are poisonous but when you search online you get mixed reports. I have a young boy and don’t want to risk him eating anything that could cause him harm.

Answer:

I had not heard that the Fatsia Japonica was poisonous so did some research myself. Most of the websites I use regularly do not mention that it is (including the RHS). However, I did find one that did state that the seed and other parts of the plant were indeed poisonous. I think I would tend to err on the safe side and assume that it is poisonous. You could pull it up or replant it somewhere that your son does not have access.

Blueberry Problems

Question:
We have two blueberry bushes about 3 yrs old which we moved from pots into garden last year. They are in fruit but all the leaves have been eaten? On odd remaining ones there is what looks like a yellow mildew.Can you advise if fruit once ripened is fit to eat and also what the problem is.

Answer:
Blueberries are often pest and disease free, but can occasionally suffer from powdery mildew and vine weevil. Click on the links to find out more from the RHS Advice Centre. Here is also a link to find out more about blueberries in general.

It is also worth noting that they prefer an acid soil so it would be as well to test the soil around the planting area and if it is not acidic enough perhaps consider putting them back into their pots:

I would say that the fruits will be fine once they ripen but if you have sprayed the plant make sure you wash them well.

Moving Monkey Puzzle Tree

Question:
We have planted a monkey puzzle tree from a container it did not have very big roots but looked very healthy a couple of the bottom branches are dying but the rest looks ok can you give me any advice on growing and feeding my tree as I would hate to lose it.

Answer:
All trees and shrubs take time to get established following a move, as long as you are keeping it well watered it should be OK.

However, the monkey puzzle trees like full sun and well-drained soil so check that it isn’t sitting in water and move it to a sunny area if it isn’t located in one currently.

The monkey puzzle tree is slow growing but can eventually grow to a height of 60-70ft and a width of 30-35ft so may eventually outgrow your garden. I know you’ve only just moved it out of a container but it may be better to grow it in a pot but the pot needs to be of considerable size in order for the tree to reach it’s full potential. Make sure you feed it regularly with a general feed such as pelleted chicken manure and mulch the surface with some well rotted organic matter such as manure. If it out grows its pot, wait until the autumn then re-pot in a large pot with plenty of drainage holes. Add some crocks or broken clay pots into the bottom to help drainage and to help stop it falling over, then fill with a good quality compost. Add a general feed such as pelleted chicken manure and mulch the surface with some well rotted organic matter such as manure. Each year you should top up the compost level, feed and add more organic matter.

If you do want to keep it in the ground keep it well watered during the first year and feed and mulch in the autumn.

Leylandii Hedge

Question:

I have just moved into a new house and there is a 20 foot high leylandii hedge down one whole side of the garden.  The bottom is a bit sparse, and I really want to plant a border in front of it.  Can you please give me any advice about what plants would survive?

Answer:

Leylandii are a nuisance in the garden as they grow very quick and if not kept in check can soon take over a whole garden!

It is extremely difficult to grow anything under a hedge, particularly leylandii as they remove so much moisture from the soil.

I would not advise trying to plant a border under the hedge as the shade and lack of moisture means that not much is likely to grow there successfully.

I would plant up pots to provide colour and interest, just place them under the hedge and keep them well watered.

Try planting a few pots with spring flowering bulbs layering different types to get a succession of flowering e.g. daffodils in the lower layer, followed by tulips, then crocus or iris; anything that takes your fancy will do. Once flowering is over these pots can be moved into a corner out of the way until next spring. Replace them by pots full of summer bedding plants.

For all year background interest you could have your evergreens and grasses; conifers also do well in pots and their size is kept in check.

A good plant for autumn interest is Skimmia, they don’t mind low light and are great in pots. click here to see a selection from Crocus

Low Maintenance Flower Beds

Question:

Our local council have decided to grass over four of the flower beds along our road due to cost cutting. They have said that they will consider alternative use of the beds i.e. monument or alternate designs. It has to be low maintenance and be appropriate for the seaside setting as the cliffs are about 200yards away. Can you offer any design ideas or websites that I can use to get advice.

Answer:

Hello, thank you for your email. What a shame you council have decided to remove the flower beds. However, I think one solution that would work well in terms of location and minimal maintenance is to produce gravel gardens. Basically they can remove existing planting and check that the soil is sandy and free draining, if not they can mix in a good quantity of gravel. Add sheets of weed suppressing membrane then top off with gravel and some decorative boulders, stones, driftwood etc. For planting they should use grasses as they will look good for most of the year and only need cutting back once a year, usually in the spring.

I suppose if this is thought to be too much maintenance they can just plant one or two (depending on the size of the beds) pampas grasses in each bed. They require little or no maintenance and can be quite impressive when in full flower.

Another idea, although not exactly coastal in design is to use prostrate woody plants such as Cotoneaster horizontalis, Cotoneaster dammeri, Pyracantha (instead of training it against a wall let it spread along the ground). These plants will soon cover a large area and once establish require no maintenance at all. If a weed suppressing membrane is laid before planting then the weeds should be kept away until the plants establish. An added bonus is that the berries in autumn will feed the local garden birds and the flowers in spring attract butterflies and bees. The links are to Crocus.co.uk to show you what the plants look like.

Questions for April 2008

Question

I am not sure if you can help but I am looking to buy some coprosma evening glow or/and coprosma fire burst so far I have had little luck I have tried googling it but very poor results none of my local garden centres stock it I bought some last year from a local market and would like to get more I really want a fairly well established rather than a small gutting that needs to be grown on do you know of any online nurseries that would sell this also regards dogwood I really like the look of this but again not been able to find it in my garden centres does this come in the form of a shrub or bush has its something I am not familiar with thanks for any help you can provide

Answer

I have to admit to not knowing about Coprosma but I have managed to find a company who sell a few varieties. Click on this link:  http://www.burncoose.co.uk/site/plants.cfm?pn_id=176. There are several types of Dogwood (Cornus) so I have added a link to a few at Crocus for you to look at.

Question

We have a well established pear tree in our garden. The problem is that is has grown lopsided / horizontally right across the garden, so much so that it is obstructing the garden path. I would like to keep the tree but would like some advice on how to prune it to encourage it to grow upwards rather than outwards.

Answer

It is possible to do what you are asking but it will need to be done in stages as to reduce the stress to the tree. I think the best thing for you to do is to follow RHS advice on this matter so I have included a link below on Apple and pear tree renovation: http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles1101/fruit_tree.asp

Question

I have what seems to be three different type of spotted laurels one is dark green in colour the other light green with what seems like the beginning of possibly some flowers the other is the same colour light green the first two were planted around a month ago and around 2 3 ft the last one was planted last summer and has hardly grown at all I did read for these to produce flowers you need a male and female like a holly and I thought they were very quick growers I have seen some has high has well over 20foot round where I live they seem to get bigger every year mine are planted in full sun in a good quality compost any information on this plant would be welcomed thank you. I bought a shrub called a beauty berry in October last year it had a abundance of purple berries which have gradually dropped of I believe it is suppose to have pink flowers in summer but at moment I have just a bare shrub is this normal

Answer

Regarding your laurels; do you know which variety you have? I have detailed three of the more common ones below and as you can see their sizes and flowering requirements do vary. If you can find the actual varieties I can do more research for you.

• Aucuba Japonica Crotonifolia. Evergreen, bushy, dense shrub with stout, green shoots. Large glossy, dark green leaves are heavily mottled yellow. Grows in sun or shade and well drained soil. Height 1.7m Spread 1.7m. Male.
• Aucuba Japonica Rozannie. Very handsome shrub which has large, toothed and leathery green leaves. This all green form is self pollinating and produces large red fruits in winter. Grows in any situation and any soil to about 1m. Male.
• Aucuba Japonica Variegata. Evergreen, bushy, dense shrub grown for its yellow spotted leathery leaves. Height 7 ft. Spread 7 ft. requires any reasonable soil. Will thrive in sun or shade. Plant with crotonifolia for berries. Can be kept as a colourful hedge or as a specimen plant. Female. As regards your Beauty Berry (Callicarpa bodinieri var. giraldii Profusion). The lovely purple berries will gradually drop off, or get eaten by the birds, before the end of the winter which is normal. It will remain bare until it begins to produce its leaves then small pink flowers around July.

Question

I have got some branches on our pear tree where the buds are not opening – should I cut them back or just leave it?

Answer

If the tree is the right size and shape for you then I’d leave it. However, you may want to read the RHS article below for information on how to prune your tree should you wish. http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles1101/fruit_tree.asp

Question

Now that the buds are out on the roses does this mean that I can cut them with an outward facing slope away from a bud at a height of 6 inches from the base now? Can I cut the honeysuckle back to 6 inches as well now?

Answer

I would wait until all risk of frost has passed because if you get a hard frost it can cause the tips of shrubs to die back. This die-back can be trimmed off but if the shrub is at its lowest height you will have nothing left to trim away. You should be OK to do it at the middle of April. You will still get a good display so don’t worry, you’ll be surprised how quickly they will grow from May onwards. You method sounds good but don’t forget to give them a little feed of fertilizer. You can buy one specifically for roses or you can use blood, fish and bone meal which can be used on all your plants. A mulch of well rotted manure around the base will also be good to keep down weeds and help improve the structure of the soil.

Question

Leaves on the hyacinth are going yellow. Can I cut them to the base; remove bulbs from the indoor pot and plant in the garden now? Any thoughts as to where best and how i.e. depth etc to plant them?

Answer

Yes you can cut them back and plant them out in the garden. Here’s a link to my Bulbs page which should help you when planting but the general rule is three times its own depth in a sunny position. http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/bulbs.htm

Question

I have recently bought some of the pretty flowering heathers you see at this time of year but know little about them I did hear that they need to be planted I the special compost you use for azaleas and rhododendrons also how long do they flower for I am told the ones you see in the garden centres are all forced has I believe they do not flower until early summer do I prune them when they finish flowering and when should I feed them thank you for any advice you can provide

Answer

There are two types of heather so I’ll give you the details for both. The first type is the “Erica” variety. These heathers do prefer acid soil but they will tolerate slightly alkaline soil, either way it needs to be well-drained and placed in a sunny spot. If you don’t know how acidic your soil is then it would be best to plant into pots using Ericaceous compost although it’s not essential. This type of heather flowers January to March and should be trimmed after flowering with shears or secateurs to remove the dead flowers and encourage bushy growth. The second type is “Calluna”. They like full sun and well-drained, humus-rich, acid soil or ericaceous compost. They flower July to November. In March or April cut back the flowered shoots to within 2.5cm (1in) of the old growth.

Question

My husband would like to know are than any certain types of methods used to make top soil more firm? He’s clearing out some land and the soil is too soft to hold weight.

Answer

I’m not entirely certain I understand exactly what the problem is but I think it is one of the following. The top soil may be too “soft” meaning it is not compacted enough. If this is the case then you should be able to carefully tread down the surface by slowly walking around until it is firm. However, the problem may be that the soil is too sandy, meaning that it has no substance and keeps falling apart. The added problem here is that it will also be very poor making it difficult to grow anything. If this is the case then you need to improve the structure by adding lots and lots of well rotted organic matter such as horse or cow manure. This can be bought in bulk or, if you live near a farm or stables, you may get it for free if you agree to collect it. If you have to go this route then it will take some time for the soil to change and become more substantial, perhaps as long as a year. To avoid weeds taking hold while you’re waiting you could grow some green manure which will subsequently be incorporated into the soil, again adding goodness. Here is an article which might help. http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/soil.htm#Green_manures0

Questions for January 2008

Question

HI, I need some advice please on what to do with an old veggie patch in my backyard. The previous owner maintained a veggie patch, taking up about one-third of the yard.  It is no longer maintained as a veggie patch and if I could afford it I would makeover the whole backyard.  That area is now just a patch of dirt that is overgrown with weeds.  The man that mows my front lawn previously cleared it, but then I found that the loose soil was unsightly and would blow onto the paved area on windy days. It also had a lot of debris in it (from old construction work on my house, bits of broken plaster) that was unnoticeable while the weeds were growing over it. How do I keep the patch looking neat, would it be possible to cover it over with gravel or wood chips?  I don’t want to spend a lot of money by putting a lawn over it as I intend to redo the whole area someday.

Answer

It should be quite easy to deal with this area. First of all I would ensure that all the weeds are well and truly dead by treating the area with a good quality perennial weed killer. Leave it for a few weeks to see if any annual weeds germinate and if they do pull them out by hand. Then you should lay a weed suppressing membrane ensuring that the whole area is well covered. You will be able to buy this from your local garden centre or DIY store. Finally lay a thick layer of your chosen mulch. You can use anything you like as they all do the same job. The thing to remember is that weed seeds will find there way into the mulch and germinate. However they are usually quite weak so if you pull them up as soon as you see them they should be quite easy to control.

Question

I have just bought a lovely Cordyline australis red star it says on the plant card its only half hardy and wont survive hard frosts yet elsewhere I have read its fully hardy and the frost wont damage it I have bought it in doors placed it where it can get plenty of light and avoided putting it near radiators so should I keep it indoors for now or plant it out it is in a large black plastic pot at moment I have other Cordylines which have done ok over last two winters though different from this one

Answer

You are correct that some Cordylines do survive the winter but I think it best to play safe. Leave it indoors over this winter and plant it out into a sheltered, sunny spot once the risk of frost has passed. Next winter cover the leaves with horticultural fleece to protect it. Alternatively plant it into a nice pot and bring it indoors each winter.

Question

I have a very shaded area of my garden 5 6 hours max sun on a good day in summer I was looking at a relatively inexpensive way of planting some form of hedge that will not grow much over 3ft but will be noticeable perhaps something that may have flowers or berries on at some stage in the year any advice welcomed

Answer

I have done some research and found a few plants which should make a good, low hedge with some interest. There are not many hedging plants which like full shade so I have also included some that like partial shade. They should still do OK although they may bloom a little later than usual. Switch Ivy – likes acid soil, Snowy Woodrush – I don’t know this one well but enjoys full shade, Common Box – needs to be kept well pruned to shape, Berberis – likes sun or shade. Lovely colour but has thorns, Pyracantha – also like sun or shade but again is thorny and will need pruning well each year, Red-barked Dogwood – the red bark is even better when cut right down each year.

Next Page »