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How to Grow Carrots

Carrot  Go to Carrot Troubles
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Unless growing carrots for show purposes grow them as close as possible to avoid having to weed. Water during dry periods. Pull up small carrots from June and lift the main crop in October and store between layers of sand. Keep in a cool, dry place checking occasionally for any that may be rotting. They should keep until March.
Early March under glass, mid March outdoors to Mid August	n/a	Deep, fertile soil. For long rooted stock the soil must be sandy. Prepare seed bed 2-3 weeks prior to sowing and do not add manure or compost	Sow thinly and thin out seedlings to 2-3ins apart and 6ins between rows.	Early June to late December	Will keep in a food bag in the fridge for up to two weeks. For freezing use small carrots, blanch for 5 mins and use within 12 months	Top and tail. No need to remove the skin unless they are old. Only just cover the carrots with salted water and boil for 10-20 mins.

 

 

Carrot Troubles
Trouble	Symptoms	Treatment	Prevention
Black Rot	Blackened Carrot Roots seen on stored carrots	Burn diseased roots	Store properly and do not use the same land for carrots next year
Carrot Fly	Reddish leaves which wilt in the sun. Seedlings die and mature roots are riddled with holes and will rot	None	Don’t grow near tall plants, sow thinly and destroy all thinnings
Clayburn	Not serious but will produce blackened roots	None	Dig out any clay in the soil before sowing
Carrot-Willow Aphid	Distorted, discoloured and stunted leaves and weak plants. Transmits Motley Dwarf Virus.	Spray at first sign of attack	None
Fanging	Forked roots	None	Don’t add manure or compost prior to sowing. Don’t make beds too firm
Green Top	Tops of carrots are green caused by exposure to the sun	None	Earth up around the carrots
Motley Dwarf Virus	Discoloured leaves, reduced growth and yield. Spread by Carrot-Willow Aphid.	None	Spray young carrots
Small Roots	Small carrots	None	Dig soil deeply and break up any clay by adding well-rotted manure or compost
Sclerotinia Rot	Mouldy Roots found on stored carrots	None	Ensure roots are firm and disease free before storing
Splitting	Split roots caused by heavy rain. These carrots will not store successfully	None but can still be eaten	Water regularly in dry weather and apply a mulch to conserve moisture
Swift Moth	Hollowed-out roots caused by caterpillars	None	Use Chlorophos to control
Violet Root Rot	Mouldy roots and yellowing leaves	None	Rotate crops

 

Jobs to do in January

In the Flower Garden:

• Plant bare-root roses, trees and shrubs
• Prune standard roses
• Take hardwood cuttings from shrubs
• Remove dead stems and leaves from perennials
• Tidy grasses

In the Vegetable Garden:

• Fork over empty beds and mix in compost
• Plant fruit trees
• Prune Gooseberry bushes
• Warm up beds for early crops
• Tie raspberry and blackberry canes to support wires

In the Greenhouse:

• Monitor heaters to ensure they are working efficiently
• Take root cuttings of perennials
• Wash greenhouse glass to let in more light
• Water plants when the compost is dry
• Regularly deadhead over-wintering plants

Lawns:

• Continue to Remove fallen leaves
• Don’t walk on frozen turf
• Have the mower over­hauled and to make sure that the other lawn tools are ready for use in the spring
• Laying turf is possible during fine spells

General:

• Recycle your Christmas tree
• Order seed potatoes, onion sets and garlic
• Order early from seed catalogues
• Dig compost into empty areas of soil
• Add shredded winter prunings to your compost heap

Jobs to do in December

In the Flower Garden:

• Move patio containers to a sheltered spot if very cold
• Plant out Wallflowers
• Plant out new rose bushes
• Take root cuttings of suitable perennials
• Move shrubs growing in the wrong place

In the Vegetable Garden:

• Take hardwood cuttings from healthy fruit bushes
• Start pruning apple and pear trees
• Cut down Jerusalem artichokes
• Prune Gooseberry bushes Sow winter lettuces

In the Greenhouse:

• Monitor heaters to ensure they are working efficiently
• Ventilate greenhouses on warm, dry days
• Plant up Hippeastrums (Amaryllis) bulbs
• Treat timber with preservative
• Use rainwater to keep potted azaleas moist

Lawns:

• Brush away fallen leaves
• Keep off the lawn when it is wet or frozen
• Turfing is possible during fine spells

General:

• Wrap insulation around all outside taps and pipes
• Order early from seed catalogues
• Dig compost into beds empty areas of soil
• Check tree and climber ties are secure
• Keep bird feeders clean

How to Grow Parsnips

Parsnip  Click here for Parsnip Troubles
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Parsnips require very little attention and the roots can be left in the ground all winter and dug up as required but if you store some in November you will still have some when the soil is too frozen to dif them up. Do not attempt to replant thinnings as they won’t take well. Keep an eye on weeds and water well in dry weather. Harvest as the leaves begin to die down in autumn. They will taste better if left until after the first frost.
Mid February to end April	n/a	For long specimens ensure the soil is well prepared and stone-free. Any reasonable soil will do in a sunny or light-shaded site. Dig well in Autumn but don’t add manure or compost.	Sow three seeds together and thin out to one plant 6ins apart and 12ins between the rows.	Mid October to mid March	Can be kept in a plastic bag in the fridge for up to two weeks. To freeze: trim, peel and wash, cut into cubes, blanch for 5 mins and freeze.	Top and tail and remove any damaged areas. Scrub (don’t peel) and remove the hard core in older roots. Parboil for 2mins and roast. Alternatively they can be boiled and mashed.

 

 

 

 

Fritillaria imperialis ‘Aureomarginata’ (Crown Imperial)

I’ve just bought this amazing Fritillaria imperialis ‘Aureomarginata’ (Crown Imperial).

It is quite rare and unusual with orange flowers and gold edged bracts and grows to 150cm (5 ft) in height. It’s sure to make an impact in any border but I think I’ll be planting it in a nice pot.

The key to successfully growing Crown Imperial is to plant the bulbs in well drained soil/compost, to stop them rotting off lay them on their sides on a bed of grit or gravel.

You can currently buy Fritillaria imperialis ‘Aureomarginata’  from Thompson & Morgan; buy now for flowering this coming Spring.

How to Grow Potatoes

There are three types of potatoes; first earlies, second earlies and maincrop.

First earlies provide new potatoes suitable for salads second earlies fill in the gap between the first earlies and the main crop. Main Crop can be used straight from the ground or can be stored for use over Winter.

Potatoes are produced from seed potatoes which should be from certified virus free plants and ideally the size of a hen’s egg. Before planting they should be chitted to produce small, strong shoots.

Chitting: Place the seed potatoes in egg boxes or seed trays, eyed end up, and keep in a light, frost-free room for about six weeks to allow the shoots to develop.

Plant as detailed below. When the stems are about 9ins tall pile loose earth up around the stems to leave a couple of inches above the soil. Keep earthing-up, a little at a time, until the stems stop growing. This earthing-up helps to stop the potatoes going green.

Ensure that the crop are kept well watered during dry weather and to avoid problems next year ensure the whole crop is removed from the soil.

Potato Click here for Potato Troubles
There are three varieties of potatoes; first earlies, second earlies and maincrop. First earlies provide new potatoes suitable for salads second earlies fill in the gap between the first earlies and the main crop. Main Crop can be used straight from the ground or can be stored for use over Winter. Potatoes are produced from seed potatoes which should be from certified virus free plants and ideally the size of a hen’s egg. Before planting they should be chitted to produce small, strong shoots. Chitting: Place the seed potatoes in egg boxes or seed trays, eyed end up, and keep in a light, frost-free room for about six weeks to allow the shoots to develop. Plant as detailed below. When the stems are about 9ins tall pile loose earth up around the stems to leave a couple of inches above the soil. Keep earthing-up, a little at a time, until the stems stop growing. This earthing-up helps to stop the potatoes going green. Ensure that the crop are kept well watered during dry weather and to avoid problems next year ensure the whole crop is removed from the soil.
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
First Earlies e.g. Foremost, Rocket, Home Guard, Maris Bard
n/a	Late March	Can be grown in any soil preferably in a sunny spot. Dig in the Autumn and add manure or compost. Never add lime. Don’t grow on land where potatoes have been grown within past two seasons.	Plant each seed potato 12ins apart in rows 24ins apart.	Lift once flowers are fully open; usually June or July.	Should not be stored, lift when small and treat as new potatoes.	New potatoes should be washed, not peeled, and boiled for 12 mins.
Second Earlies e.g. Charlotte, Anya, Maris Peer, Wilja
n/a	Early-mid April	Can be grown in any soil preferably in a sunny spot. Dig in the Autumn and add manure or compost. Never add lime. Don’t grow on land where potatoes have been grown within past two seasons.	Plant each seed potato 12ins apart in rows 24ins apart.	Lift once flowers are fully open; usually July or August	Should not be stored, lift when small and treat as new potatoes.	New potatoes should be washed, not peeled, and boiled for 12 mins.
Maincrop e.g. Maris Piper, King Edward, Desiree, Pink Fir Apple
n/a	Mid-late April	Can be grown in any soil preferably in a sunny spot. Dig in the Autumn and add manure or compost. Never add lime. Don’t grow on land where potatoes have been grown within past two seasons.	Plant each seed potato 15ins apart in rows 30ins apart.	Wait until the stems have withered. Cut stems to the ground, wait 10 days and lift. Usually ready August to eat immediately or leave until September or early October before storing.	Leave to dry out then place in a wooden box and leave in a frost-free shed until needed. They should last until Spring.	Scrubbed or scraped, cut into chunks and cooked for 15-20 mins. Parboil for 5 mins before roasting for 45 mins.

 

 

Potato Troubles
Trouble	Symptoms	Treatment	Prevention
Aphid	Plant infested with greenfly.	Spray at first sign of attack	None
Blackleg	Blackened stems at and below ground level. Leaves turn yellow and wilt.	None	Do not plant soft or rotten seed tubers and don’t cut tubers
Capsid Bug	Small brown spots in leaves, later turn into holes	Spray if attack is bad, will not affect yield	None
Common Scab	Ragged-edged scurfy patches. Only on the skin, the flesh is not affected.	None	Buy healthy seed tubers. Do not Lime.
Dry Rot	Shrunken area with white pustules occur during storage.	None	Rotate crops. Ensure tubers are sound before storing and handle carefully.
Frost	Black stems or yellow patches on leaves	None	Cover if frost is expected
Gapping	Seed potatoes do not develop shoots	None	Buy healthy seed tubers and ensure they are kept in a frost-free location
Gangrene	Dark brown depressions on the surface of the tuber	None	Store only sound tubers and keep air and frost-free
Hollow Heart	Hollow centre of tubers	None	Keep well watered during dry spells
Leaf Roll Virus	Leaves are rolled upwards and become hard and brittle	None	Buy healthy seed tubers. Spray to control the virus-carrying aphids.
Mosaic Virus	Yellow or pale green mottling over the surface of the leaf	None	Buy healthy seed tubers. Spray to control the virus-carrying aphids.
Magnesium Deficiency	Yellowing between the veins of the leaves which turns brown and brittle. Stunted growth.	Apply MultiTonic and spray with Fillip	Feed regularly during the growing season using a fertiliser with magnesium
Potato Blight	Brown patches on the leaves with white mould on the underside of each spot. Can destroy all the foliage. grey patches below the skin.	None	Buy healthy seed tubers. Spray with Dithane in July and repeat every fortnight if the weather is damp. Keep earthed up.
Potato Cyst Eelworm	Weak and stunted plants. Small tubers produced	None	Rotate crops. Don’t grow potatoes or tomatoes on infected land for at least six years
Powdery Scab	Round patches with raised margins on the skin.	None	Rotate crops
Rosy Rustic Moth	Hollow stems causing plants to die down early	None	None
Splitting	Deep cracks on surface of tubers	None	Do not store. Keep plants well watered during dry spells.
Slugs	Large holes in the tubers	None	Don’t add too much manure and lift tubers as soon as they mature. Keep the area free of rubbish.
Spraing	Curved lines in the flesh	None	Rotate crops
Soft Rot	Soft, evil-smelling flesh	None	Store only sound tubers and keep dry
Spindly Sprouts	Thin shoots	Stand tubers in a light cool place	Buy healthy seed tubers and ensure they are sprouted in a light, frost-free location.
Soft Tubers	Soft and rubbery tubers	None	Water well during drought conditions
Wireworm	Orange, shiny larvae produce tunnels in the flesh of tubers	None	Rake Chlorophos into the soil before planting and lift tubers as soon as they are mature.
Wart Disease	Black warty outgrowths on tubers	None	Only plant immune varieties on infected land

 

How to Propagate your own Plants for Free

Buying new plants for your garden is one of life’s little pleasures and can be extremely satisfying but often expensive. Equally as satisfying and an awfully lot cheaper is propagating your own plants.

There are several methods available; softwood cuttings, semi-ripe cuttings, hardwood cuttings, root cuttings, leaf cuttings, division, layering and collecting and sowing seed. 

Softwood Cuttings

These cuttings are taken from the current years young growth between April and June.

• Choose a young side shoot and cut below a node about 5-10cm from the tip
• Remove the bottom leaves and immerse in a fungicide solution to avoid fungal infections
• Dip the base in rooting powder
• Place a few cuttings in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost
• Place the pot in a heated greenhouse or propagator or on a windowsill enclosed in a polythene bag

Keep the compost moist and once you begin to see new growth, pot individually into 10cm pots. Before planting out in the garden get them used to cooler temperatures by placing them outside during the day or move to a cool greenhouse.

Semi-ripe Cutting

These cuttings are taken from this year’s ripe growth between June and August.

• The base of the shoot should have started to turn brown
• Cut just below a node about 10-15cm from the tip or pull the shoot off with some of the woody tissue (heel) attached
• Remove the bottom leaves and immerse in a fungicide solution to avoid fungal infections
• Dip the base in rooting powder
• Place a few cuttings in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost
• Place the pot in a heated greenhouse or propagator or on a windowsill enclosed in a polythene bag

Keep the compost moist and once you begin to see new growth, pot individually into 10cm pots. Before planting out in the garden get them used to cooler temperatures by placing them outside during the day or move to a cool greenhouse.

Hardwood Cuttings

These cuttings are taken from this year’s woody growth between September and November.

• Cut a length just below and above a node about 15-30cm long
• Remove the leaves and dip the base in rooting powder
• Place a few in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost
• Place the pot in a cold frame or in the ground in an open, sheltered, sunny position

Ensure the soil is well drained and the cuttings should be rooted by the following Autumn.

Root Cuttings

These cutting should be taken between September and November.

• Expose the roots of shrubs or lift herbaceous plants and select a young root near the crown of the plant
• Cut a length 5cm long with a straight cut at the top and a diagonal cut at the base
• Immerse in fungicide and insert in a pot of compost so the top is level with the top of the compost
• Cover with 0.5cm compost.
• Fine roots should be laid on the top of the compost and covered lightly
• Place in a cold greenhouse or cold frame and keep the compost moist.

The cuttings should have rooted by the following spring when they can be potted on.

Leaf Cuttings

There are three methods of taking leaf cuttings.

1. The first involves taking a whole leaf including the stalk (petiole)
   1. Dip the base of the stalk in rooting powder
   2. Insert in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost so the stalk is buried
   3. Place in a propagator at 18-21 degrees C or enclose in a polythene bag and stand on a warm windowsill
   4. When growth appears at the base of the leaf lift and pot on
2. The second method is to take a whole leaf and cut halfway through the main vein on the back of the leaf
   1. Place the leaf, cut side down, on the top of the compost
   2. Place grit on top of the leaf to keep it in contact with the compost
   3. Place in a propagator at 18-21 degrees C or enclose in a polythene bag and stand on a warm windowsill
   4. New growth will appear at the cuts
3. The third method is mainly used on long leaves
   1. Cut the leaf into 5cm sections and dip the bottom edge in rooting powder
   2. Insert the leaf vertically into the compost to about half it’s length
   3. Place in a propagator at 18-21 degrees C or enclose in a polythene bag and stand on a warm windowsill
   4. New growth will form at the base

Division

Division involves dividing a plant into two or more plants and should be carried out on most perennials every 3-5 years to maintain their vigor.

• Divide in late autumn or early spring
• Lift the plant taking care not to damage the roots and shake off the soil
• Using a knife or spade cut the plant into three or four similar sized pieces
• Plant out each new section as soon as possible, adding compost and a general fertiliser

Layering

Layering works well on woody plants and involves growing a new plant while it is still attached to the parent plant.

• It is best carried out between late spring and autumn
• Find a stem which is flexible enough to bend to the ground
• Make a cut about 5cm long through a node and apply rooting powder
• Where the node touches the ground dig a small hole in the soil and add compost
• Bury the stem 10cm deep at the node and peg down to secure
• Tie the end of the stem to a support

Roots should develop within 18 months at which point it can be removed from the parent plant and planted in its own spot.

Sowing Seed

There are several advantages and disadvantage to propagating by seed.

Advantages:

• Large volume of seeds readily available
• Cheap
• Simple
• Vast choice of varieties
• Can be stored for a length of time

Disadvantages:

• Not all seeds come true to type
• Some plants have lost the ability to produce seed
• Some plants take a long time to mature and flower

Most people will buy their seeds from a garden centre or specialist seeds man and just follow the directions on the packet. However it is very easy to collect seed from your own garden and also completely free.

Some plants will seed themselves, usually where you don’t want them. Once they have seeded just thin them out and/or transplant to another part of your garden. You could also pot them on and give them to friends and family.

If you do use your own seed you must remember that most do not come true to type so will not necessarily resemble the plant they came from.

You must collect the seed when it is ripe; store pods in a warm, dry place until they split. Once you have the seed label them and keep in a dry, dark, well ventilated area at between 1 and 5 degrees C.

Seeds have six requirement in order to germinate:

• Seeds have little water which is why they stay dormant for so long so water is required to germinate
• The temperature required to germinate vary by seed but generally heat helps
• Oxygen is required for respiration
• Food is supplied within the seed, if planted too deeply the food with be exhausted before it is able to photosynthesise
• Some seeds require light to germinate
• Some seeds have chemical inhibitors which need to diminish before germination is possible

Some seeds are difficult to germinate and a number of techniques have been developed to overcome these difficulties:

• Soaking seed in warm water for 12-24 hours will soften the coating and help it absorb water and remove chemical inhibitors
• Scarification: Nick large seeds with a knife or rub smaller seeds with sandpaper. This weakens the coating and allows water to enter
• Stratification: Some seeds require a period of cold before they can germinate. Place the seeds in a 50:50 mixture of moist sand and compost and place in the fridge for 4-12 weeks
• Most seeds will germinate better with some heat

Hardy Annuals can be sown outside in March or April when the soil has started to warm up.

Biennials and Perennials can be sown later in May or June. Sow directly where you want them to flower/fruit or sow in seedbeds and transplant later.

• The soil should be raked to break up the soil and to remove any stones
• Firm the soil with the back of the rake and apply a general fertiliser
• If the area is dry, water well and allow to drain, this should be carried out 3-4 weeks in advance of sowing to allow weeds germinate
• Weed the area well then sow the seed thinly in drills 5-15mm deep
• Cover lightly with soil
• Ensure the soil is kept moist and weed free
• When the seedlings appear thin them out to around 10cm apart, carry out a final thinning to 15-20cm depending on the size of the final plant.

Other seeds can be sown in a greenhouse, a propagator or on a window sill.

• Ideally use a compost formulated specifically for growing seed
• Fill a seed tray to the top with compost and gently firm, wet the compost and allow to dry
• Scatter the seed thinly on the surface of the compost and cover lightly with compost
• Cover with a sheet of glass or place in a propagator at a temperature of 18-21 degrees C
• Do not allow the compost to dry out
• Once the seedlings begin to show remove the cover/glass and move to where they can get maximum light but not in direct sunlight
• When the seedlings develop their first proper leaves prick them out into individual pots being careful not to damage the roots
• Never handle seedlings by their stems.

If the seeds are to go outside they need should be first moved to a closed cold frame to get them used to the change in temperature. After a few days they can be left in an open cold frame or stood outside during the day.

They can be planted out into well prepared ground once all risk of frost has passed.

Busy day at the allotment

Allan (my brother) bought over his raspberries to plant on the border of our plot on the allotment. He got on with that while I sorted out the greenhouse. We decided to remove the remaining green tomatoes and compost the plants. If they ripen then great, if they don’t I’ll make some green tomato chutney for Christmas. Allan also dug over the new raised bed and we sowed some green manure to dig in in the spring. I dug up our remaining Anya potatoes and we sowed green manure into that bed too. The allotment looks clean and tidy and shouldn’t need too much attention now.

What’s the difference between Chinese Wisteria and Japanese Wisteria?

Wisteria is a wonderful, colourful climber which is very easy to grow and has hanging, fragrant clusters of flowers during May and June

Ideally Wisteria should be grown against a wall or fence with a sturdy support system in place. However, it can be grown as a tree or shrub if pruned correctly.

There are two main species of Wisteris; W. floribunda or Japanese Wisteria and W. sinensis or Chinese Wisteria.

Wisteria floribunda flowers in May and June with clusters of flowers reaching up to 46cm (18ins) in length. The flowers range in colour from white through pink to shades of blue and appear at the same time as the leaves begin to develop.

Wisteria sinensis flowers mainly during May and the clusters of flowers are slightly smaller at up to 31cm (12ins). They tend to be either white or lilac and the flowers open all at once before the leave appear.

Plant your Wisteria in a sunny, well drained position, add manure or compost to the planting hole to give it a good start and water it in well and keep well watered until established. Once established it will thrive on a certain amount of neglect so don’t water or fertilise it unless it is looking sorry for itself in which case a small amount of rose fertiliser during late winter should perk it up.

To ensure a good display of flowers Wisteria needs to be pruned twice a year. Make sure that your secateurs are sharp to avoid crushing or tearing the stems, which may lead to die-back.

Winter Pruning – Between October and mid March cut back this season’s growth to two or three buds from the base. Cut at an angle just above the bud. This will encourage the development of spurs which carry the flowers in spring.

Summer Pruning – Between late June and Mid August but ideally in April or May cut back the long vigorous shoots that have been produced during late spring and early summer. Cut just above a couple of buds from the base. If the plant is young and still being trained, select some of the stronger shoots to tie into the frame and cut back to this framework.

Buy Wisteria from Crocus.co.uk

Using a Cold Frame to extend the Growing Season

To get the most out of your garden you need to be able to shelter your plants from cold weather during the winter and early spring.

A cold frame is a relatively inexpensive and simple structure providing the ideal environment for sheltering plants and for growing cool-weather crops.

Cold frames do not require an outside energy source as they rely on the heat of sun making it economical as well as practical. If needed, some “hot” manure can be added beneath the compost to add some bottom heat.

To make the most of this heat source your cold frame should be located against a south facing wall or fence or the side of a shed or greenhouse. Position the cold frame on a slight slope to ensure good drainage and maximum exposure to the sun and site it in a sheltered spot with a wall or hedge to the north to protect from winter winds. If possible, sink the cold frame into the ground to provide protection and use the earth as additional insulation.

Building a Cold Frame

There are lots of plans available for building a cold frame. However, Gardeners Worlds’ Toby Buckland made one for the show which is ideal. Here’s what he says:

1. Buy your window first and make the frame to fit. A salvage yard or reclamation yard is an ideal place to buy – we paid £15 for ours.

2. Make the sides from 15cm wide planks (we used recycled floor boards) with 50mm (2? x 2?) timber batten in the corners for extra strength.

3. The only tricky part is cutting the plank for the sloping sides a – job best done with an electric jigsaw. If you haven’t got one give the frame a flat top but be prepared to tip the water that will collect in the window lid away after rain regularly.

4. Fix hinges between the back wall of the frame and the window lid. Give the inside a coat of White emulsion to increase light levels and plant growth.

5. Position in a bright spot ideally with the lid angles towards the south to catch as much sun as possible.

Buying a Cold Frame

Here are a few examples of what is available on the web:

Insulation

Additional insulation my be necessary when frost is expected. The simplest way to do this is to fill burlap or hessian sacks with leaves and place on the top to protect against freezing. Another method is to stack straw or hay around the sides of the frame.

Ventilation

On sunny days it is vital to provide some ventilation. Just prop open the lid and don’t forget to close it again at sunset.

Using your Cold Frame

In early spring a cold frame is useful for hardening off seedlings which have been sown indoors or in a heated greenhouse. This hardening off ensures that seedlings are properly acclimatised before being planted out. The cold frame can also be used to get an early start with hardy and half-hardy annuals.

In summer the cold frame can be used to propagate root cuttings from a vast number of plants.

In autumn you could sow some cool-weather crops to keep you in greens and root vegetables throughout most of the winter months. These crops include beetroot, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, garlic, leeks, lettuces, onions, parsnips, peas, shallots, spinach, swedes and turnips.

Camellia not flowering

Question:

I have a Camellia shrub but it will not flower. I have had it at lease 6 years and looks healthy enough but no flowers. Can you advise what I can do?

Answer:

Camellias are lovely shrubs and a great splash of colour at this time of year. They are relatively easy to grow but do need certain conditions; check the list below to see if any changes need to be made:

• They are woodland plants and prefer a sheltered site with light shade
• They need free-draining conditions
• The soil should have plenty of organic matter incorporated in the soil; leafmould is best
• They need an acid soil so if yours is in the ground check the ph. If it isn’t acidic then lift and plant in a container using ericaceous compost and feed regularly with an ericaceous feed
• If possible water with rain water rather than tap water
• Feed with an acidic feed or use fish, blood and bone or a seaweed product.
• Don’t feed after July as this can lead to the buds dropping off
• Buds will begin forming in late summer so make sure you water well during dry spells; even if it rains it is not always enough for a large shrub particularly if it is in a container
• Mulch with a good 3-4in layer of bark or leaf mould to help conserve water
• Once your shrub begins to bud don’t be worried if a few fall off; this is normal
• Some cultivars are tender so will need protection during the winter; if you know which yours is I can find out if it is tender
• Severe frost can damage young buds so think about where yours is located; if it is exposed consider moving it to a more sheltered position

Green Gardening

Give your garden a green makeup this summer; saving you money and cutting down on waste.

Keeping your garden looking great can come at a cost, here are some ideas to keep your garden “green”:

• According to the Energy Saving Trust using sprinklers to water your garden can use up to 18 litres of water per minute, more water than a typical family of four will use in a day.

• Fit your hosepipe with a trigger gun to reduce the amount of water you use.

• When possible use a watering can to significantly cut water waste

• Water in the evening or early morning to extend the length of time before the soil dries out and therefore allowing the water to reach right down to the roots

• Giving your plants a good soaking once or twice a week is much better than watering a little, more often.

• Buy a water butt and collect rainwater to water the garden. As well as being “greener” it is also more beneficial to the plants.

• To find out more about setting up a water butt visit the Waterwise website.

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• Make your own compost, once you’ve got your bin, home compost is essentially free
• Use compost as mulch to help preserve moisture, replenish nutrients and keep weeds down. Spread a 5 centimetre layer around the base of your plants
• Mix fine compost with an equal amount of sharp sand and brush into your lawn after forking thoroughly
• Don’t use compost around soft-stemmed plants and wait until young plants are more established
• Take a look at our Composting pages for more information on how you can recycle your kitchen and garden waste

• Try not to use harmful pesticides and herbicides by using organic controls

• Bury some plastic containers around the garden, fill with beer and place a loose cover over the top. Slugs will be attracted to the beer and drown. Replace the beer every few days.

• Lay a piece of cardboard, thick newspaper or old carpet over weeds to smother them.

• Certain plants can repel pests, plant them at the same time as the edible crops to prevent pests getting a foothold:

  • Planting marigolds and garlic in with your roses and tomatoes to deter aphids.

  • Grow carrots and leeks together to drive away each other’s pests.

  • Plant nasturtium with cabbages; the nasturtiums will attract the caterpillars and leave the cabbages alone.

  • Grow dill to attract aphid-eating hoverflies

• Don’t be too fussy about weeds; if they are not taking over and don’t look too bad then leave them, remove the flower heads to stop them producing weeds.

Compost Your Kitchen Waste

Composting your kitchen waste has never been easier; these days there are composters designed to handle each specific task.

You can use your kitchen waste to produce compost either indoors or outdoors. Indoor composting us carried out with Bokashi and outdoor composting can take place either with worms or in the traditional way using wooden or plastic composters.

To find out more about conventional composting have a look at our Composting Garden Waste article.

Bokashi

Bokashi is a Japanese term that means “fermented organic matter”. It is a bran-based material that has been fermented with Effective Micro-organisms liquid concentrate and then dried.

To start you simply sprinkle the Bokashi into your container and begin adding your kitchen waste. For every 30mm or so of scraps add a handful of the bran until the bin is full. Be sure to replace the lid each time you add to it to keep in smells and to help the fermenting process. Once the bin is full seal and put it away for a 10-14 days. Whilst it is sealed the Bokashi ferments the organic matter into a form that breaks down really quickly.

Once complete the “pickled” waste can be added to a conventional compost heap or used in the garden to improve the soil. If used directly on the garden, bury it beneath a layer of soil and leave for about two weeks before planting in that area.

Liquid is also produced from the buckets which should be drained off and used as a probiotic plant feed.

Because the unit is sealed it does not produce any odour and does not attract vermin. It is best to have two bins; one you are filling and one which is fermenting.

Items that can be “pickled” include fresh fruit and vegetables, prepared foods and leftover ready meals, cooked and uncooked meat and fish, cheese, eggs and coffee grounds.

Wormeries

Wormeries are used outdoors to compost your kitchen waste. They are neat and unobtrusive and all you have to do it add the worms and let them do all the hard work. Throughout the composting process the wormery will also produce a steady supply of liquid plant feed.

Unlike conventional composters Wormeries allow you to compost cooked vegetable leftovers, dog hair, apple peel, cardboard etc as well as the usual raw kitchen scraps.

The best composting worms are reds and dendras and you should use a combination of the two. The more worms you have the faster the compost will convert, on average you should aim to have a kilogram of worms to each cubic metre of waste. The worms can eat half their body weight in waste each day and they neutralise odours as they work. Every couple of weeks or so they can produce a dozen baby worms so you should not have to buy any once your system has stabilised.

Composting has never been easier but if you want to find out more here is a selection of books from Amazon which will tell you everything you need to know:

Butterflies in your Garden

A well designed and maintained garden is a joy but what make a garden complete is to have it full of bird song and the fluttering of butterflies.

There are 58 butterfly species in Britain and by carefully planning your garden you may be lucky enough to see a good number of these in your own garden. There are some essentials to ensure that butterflies will stop to take nectar from your garden, just follow the guidelines below.

Sunshine

You must position your butterfly plants in a warm, sheltered, sunny spot in your garden. Spend some time observing which parts of your garden get the most sunshine for most of the day. Butterflies will rarely feed in a shady area but part shade may suffice

Shelter

As mention above a sheltered spot is preferable as butterflies do not like to be buffeted by the wind.

Overnight Roosts

Grow some climbers and tall shrubs to enable the butterflies to roost overnight well off the ground. Hanging baskets also work well.

Food for Caterpillars

Most butterflies will only lay their eggs on specific plants in order to provide the right food for their caterpillars. Leave a patch of your garden “wild” with some long grass and nettles. Nettles are very popular with Small Tortoiseshell, Peacock, Red Admiral and Comma butterflies. If you don’t have room in your garden to leave an area “wild” try planting some nettles in a large pot and hide it away in the shrubs

The Right Plant for your Garden

Although there are quite a number of plants which butterflies love, do remember that the plant must also be suitable for your soil type and the aspect of your garden. See our Soil & Compost page for more information on soil types.

Visit our Plants for Butterflies page for a full list of the plants loved by our British Butterflies and the Butterfly Year to see which butterflies will visit your garden each month of the season.

Removing Turf

Question:

I want to remove a small area of grass and and cover with slate can you advise me on how to do this the area is about 7 foot in a circular shape.

Answer:

The easiest way to do this is by cutting straight through the turf with a sharp spade to a depth of about 2 inches making individual pieces about the size of your spade. Once done slip the spade under the edge of the turf with a sharp motion. This should bring each small piece of turf up in one go without having to go back over the same area.

If you have an edging spade (see left) then this makes the cutting easier, then use a normal garden spade for lifting.

If you have a spare area in the garden you can make really good loam for use on your planting beds. Lay the first few pieces of turf grass-down in your chosen area. Lay the next few pieces soil-down on top of the first layer then lay the third layer grass-down on top of the second. Build it up until all the turf has been used. Leave it for a few months, keeping it damp, and you should end up with a pile of lovely compost!

Plant of the Month – Camelia

Camellias are wonderful plants giving amazing splashes of colour on bleak February days. This year, in my garden at least, the Camellias are very late in flowering due to the exceptionally cold winter and early Spring.

Despite the late flowers the glossy dark green foliage, which remains throughout the year, has been a welcome sight.

The camellia in the picture has been growing in a container in my North facing garden for about eight years and always rewards me with lots of these deep pink flowers during late Winter and early Spring which I’m really looking forward to. The variety is Camellia x Williamsii Debbie which you can buy from Gardening Express for just £12.95 for a 3.5l plant.

Camellias are well suited for pots and containers, but they need acid compost, a reasonably large pot and regular watering to thrive. Once the flowers have faded they drop off the plant meaning no dead-heading, making this shrub a practically maintenance free plant.

Below are a selection of Camellia on sale at Crocus.co.uk, click on the pictures for more information: 

Camellia sinensis for Making Tea

Camellia sinensis is similar to the more common ornamental varieties but with the benefit of being able to produce tea from the leaves and shoots.

The flowers are white with yellow stamens and are fragrant. The leaves are evergreen; dark green and shiny. If left unpruned it can grow to 10ft or more but they are easily pruned if a smaller shrub is required. Indeed, if you want to produce tea from the leaves it will need pruning every couple of years to keep it to 3-5ft high. See below.

In the UK, unless you live in a sheltered, warm climate, you are best to plant it up in a pot and keep it in a cool greenhouse over winter.

Propagation and Care

The most common way of propagating Camellia sinensis is by seed but cuttings also work well. Sow seeds about an inch deep in a good quality acidic seed compost with added grit or sand. Keep the compost damp and warm.

Pot on when the seedlings are large enough to handle, increasing the pot size and the months and years go on.

When buying a young shrub choose one without a central leader in order to produce a bush not a tree. Ensure that there are shoots growing out from the bottom of the plant to ensure the correct shape.

If planting outside place about 3ft apart in a sunny, sheltered position in an acidic, well drained soil. If they are grown in pots place the pots somewhere where they can get some protection from strong wind and raise the pots off the ground to allow water to drain away. Do not allow them to dry out but ensure that they don’t get waterlogged.

Fertilise regularly during the growing season with a suitable Camellia feed and prune to obtain the size and shape you require.

With the correct care and conditions camellia sinensis can live for 50-100 years.

Growing Camellia sinensis for Tea Making

There are three types of tea which can be made from Camellia sinensis; green tea, black tea and Oolong tea. Each type is produced from differently aged leaves and from using different production methods:

• The young, emerging buds, also known as Tips or Flowery Pekoe, are used for the best quality teas
• The next set of leaves are known as Orange Pekoe
• The oldest and largest leaves nearest the stem are Souchong

When your plants reach 2ft tall cut back to a few inches high to encourage new shoots and increased yield. Do this every 2-3 years to keep the vigour in the plants.

Depending on when the leaves are harvested the strength of the tea will differ; the picking of new shoots in Spring is known as First Flush. The Second Flush is the late Spring / early Summer harvesting and produces a tea with more body. The final harvest takes place in Autumn and is stronger still.

When harvesting the leaves should be gently pinched and twisted to avoid damage.

Tea Production

The production of the tea itself goes through several stages:

• Withering: the leaves/shoots are laid out on trays and left until the leaves loose about half of their moisture and become limp
• Rolling: the leaves are rolled to expose the plant enzymes to oxygen and begin oxidisation; the amount of time allowed for the enzymes to react with oxygen determines the type of tea produced
• Oxidisation: also known as fermentation is a highly complex procedure. The length of time given to oxidisation ranges from 45 minutes to many hours determining the colour and aroma of the final product:
  • For Green Tea this process is missed out and the leaves are not allowed to oxidise. It is a green or yellow colour with a “grassy” flavour
  • Oolong tea is partially oxidised; the exact time depends on personal skill and knowledge
  • Black Tea is fully oxidised and produces a full-bodied brew
  • Firing: firing sends a stream of hot air onto the leaves stopping the oxidisation process.
  • Sorting: once dried the tea is sorted into different grades determined by size. The smallest particles are sold as Dust working up in size through Fannings and Broken Leaf to Whole Leaf

Links: Gardening Supplies

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Why do I get a lot of leaves but few flowers in my garden?

Question:

Why do I get a lot of leaves but few flowers in my garden? The water supply is good and there is (I think) a good amount of sunlight, and I regularly mulch with compost. Can you suggest anything?

Answer:

Lack of flowering can be caused by a few things:

• Lack of feed: during the growing season you should be feeding your garden and containers about once a fortnight. A general fertiliser will be fine for most plants, if you have any acid lovers such as azaleas or camellias then use an ericaceous feed.

• Lack of water: although your garden may look OK it is surprising how quickly plants can dry out, particularly in containers. You should water your containers regularly regardless of rain and if you have a long dry spell you should give the soil plants a bit of a watering too. Lack of water when plants are in bud can cause the buds to die and therefore not produce flowers.

• Frost: if your plants get affected by frost whilst in bud then, again, the buds will die off before they have a chance to flower. Early flowers such as camellias are particularly susceptible to this.

• Pot Bound: if you have container plants you need to re-pot these every 2-3 years into a bigger pot with new compost and some feed.

• Dead heading, the removal of spent flowers, will prolong the flowering season.

• Mulching is great so continue to do this in autumn but remember to feed from mid spring through to late summer.

• Pests: some insect and birds love flower buds so they may be getting eaten before they get a chance to flower.

• Lack of sun can reduce flowering so the sunnier the better but a lot of sun will also dry out plants quickly so keep an eye on them.

• Flower size and length of flowering: not all plants have showy flowers so they may have flowered and you haven’t noticed, also some only flower for a short time so, again, they may have been missed

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