Make your own Fat Feeders for the Birds

This week I made my own fat feeders and it was surprisingly easy and cheaper than buying them. Here’s how I made mine:

• I had bought four coconut feeders a few weeks ago so once they were empty I washed them out to use as my containers. Once they are empty I’ll reuse them again.
• I melted 250g of lard in a saucepan.
• Whilst waiting for the fat to melt, using a food processor, I mixed up a couple of slices of bread, peanuts and sultanas until the size of breadcrumbs.
• To the dry ingredients I added some mixed bird seed and some dried insects until I had 500g in total.
• Once the fat had melted I added the dry ingredients and mixed well.
• I spooned the mixture into the containers then put them in the fridge until set then hung them out for the birds to enjoy.

You don’t need to follow my method to the letter, the dry ingredients can be anything you like as long as you don’t use anything salty i.e. no bacon and no salted peanuts. Bits of apple or green vegetables such as cabbage or broccoli would be good too.

Avoid using bread or whole peanuts during the spring when young birds are about or when parents may take food into the nest.

Also, if you don’t have used coconut feeders you can use clean yoghurt cartons; just put a hole in the base, thread through some string and knot it below the base to keep it in place. When filling the pots ensure that the string lies down the middle of the mixture with enough left over to enable it to be tied up.

In all I think it took me 15 minutes to make four feeders which I think is time well spent.

To make your own fat feeders you will need supplies; Garden Bird Supplies always have good quality feed at good prices:

Plant of the Month for October – Grasses

People either love or hate grasses but at this time of year they add enormous interest to any garden; there is a huge range available adding gossamer effects, autumn colour, and winter shapes as well as a gentle rustling as the wind whips around the garden.

Some are low and spreading and so fill in gaps which tend to appear at this time of year, some have wonderful flowering spikes with amazing colour, and some provide height, always a bonus in any garden.

Here is a small selection of grasses available from Crocus.co.uk; click the images for more detail.

Grasses can be used in several ways, often they are planted in drifts through a border which creates a natural look and brings different parts of the garden together into one cohesive design. They can also be planted as individual specimens adding dramatic impact to the smallest of gardens. If room is limited or if you have a paved garden or yard, grasses can easily be grown in containers which often helps to soften more formal designs and also means they can be moved around to change the impact as the year progresses.

Giant grasses such as pampas grasses quickly form enormous clumps and can soon dominate a bed so only plant these where space is plentiful or try them in containers.

There are many smaller grasses which can be accommodated in even the smallest of borders; read the label carefully before planting to ensure you have the correct amount of space

Sedges are suitable for damp conditions and the Britain’s native sedge, Carex pendula is well worth trying if your garden is on the damp side.

Most grasses are easy to grow but most need full sun to get the most out of them, any soil type will do. Feed in the spring with a general fertiliser but don’t over feed. Cut back in February and add a thick layer of mulch.

Click here to see the full range of Grasses from Crocus.co.uk

Or take a look at the range from Gardening Express

Fruit and Veg Planting Guide

It doesn’t matter whether you’re a novice or an experienced and keen gardener, anyone can grow their own fruit and veg.

This guide from Gardening Direct will help you create an amazing kitchen garden, ready for you to pick your own produce.

If ordering your stock by mail, phone or online it is important to unpack your plug plants as soon as they arrive or as soon as you are ready to start planting.

Remember if you have any left over boxes, tear them up and add them to your compost heap.

Plug Plants

Your plug plants should be placed in a light, frost free area. Make sure that the plants are watered gently either by misting or by standing in a shallow tray of water. Allow your plug plants to rest for at least 24 hours.

Medium Plug Plants (In quantities of 42 and 63)

For you to get the best out of your medium plug plants they should be planted in slightly larger containers and allowed to grown on for a further 2-3 weeks before planting them in their final position.

• Ensure the plants are well watered
• Fill small pots (approximately 3 inches) with a non soil based compost
• Use a pencil to push the individual cells out of the tray provided. Gently pull up by taking one of the leaves. Try not to grab the stem as this could seriously damage the plant
• Use the pencil to make a tiny hole in the compost and place the cell in gently. Ensure that the leaf and stem joint is above soil level
• Water immediately after transplanting and place the plants in a location out of direct sunlight
• After one week start feeding the plant with liquid feed and keep well watered
• After 3 weeks the plants should be ready to plant out keeping the top of the plug level with the soil surface. Once planted, water generously

Large sized Plug Plants (Ordered in quantities of 5, 10 and 24)

Large Plug Plants can be planted into their final location on arrival. Water the root ball or tray well and leave to ‘rest‘ for 24 hours, plant into final position with the top of the root ball level with the soil surface. Water in well and feed regularly with a liquid feed for best results.

Alternatively, for faster results, they can be treated in a similar way as Medium Plug Plants, above.

Seeds

Keep the seed packets sealed and store in a dark, dry and cool place until they are going to be sown. Always refer to seed packet for correct sowing times.

Sowing Outdoors:

• Sow straight into desired growing location in rows as per individual instructions
• Cover the seeds with either plastic or fleece to encourage germination
• Thin the seedlings as stated in the individual instructions, removing any small or week seedlings

Sowing indoors:

• For small seeds (e.g. Lettuce and Strawberries) scatter thinly and evenly over a tray of compost
• For medium sized seeds (e.g. Courgette and Tomatoes) push seeds gently into compost in a seed tray
• For large seeds (e.g. Beans and Peas):
  
  • Fill a tray with compost and push each individual seed gently into the compost about 2cm apart
  • Sit the tray in shallow water until the compost is moist
  • Remove tray from water and place the tray in a warm, bright position out of direct sunlight
  • Once seeds have germinated and have between 2 and 4 leaves, gently thin the seedlings by removing the smallest and weakest seedlings
  • When plants have reached around 10 – 20cm tall they can be transplanted to small pots
  • Grow on for a further 3 weeks then plant out into the final position following the individual planting instructions provided

Potatoes

Seed Potatoes should be placed in a sack and stored in a cool and dry place until they are to be planted. If you wish to “chit” your potatoes rub off the unwanted shoots and just leaving three or four shoots on one end of the potato. If the potatoes have no shoots they need to be left in a dry and dark place for 2 – 3 weeks, by that time shoots should have appeared.

Plant out into rows in previously well-dug and fertilised soil. As the plant begins to grow gradually build up the soil around each plant, stop this once each mound is around 25cm high. When building the level of the soil up always ensure that most of the plant is still exposed.

Gardening Direct’s Fruit and Veg Range

Click to see our Fruit and Vegetable Plants and Seeds

Also, below is Garden Direct’s Planting Guide covering the most popular crops, if you would like your own copy of this guide download it here in pdf format.

Plant	Planting Distance	Row Distance	Planting Depth	Preferred Site	Advice
Potatoes – 1st Early	30cm	80cm	15cm	Full sun to partial shade and fertile well-drained pre-dug soil.	Plant straight outdoors in mid-March into pre-dug soil. As the plant grows gradually heap the soil around it to 20-30cm above ground level. Harvest: June – November.
2nd Early	30cm	80cm	15cm
Main Crop	35cm	80cm	15cm
Broad Beans	20cm	60cm	4cm	Full sun and fertile well drained soil.	Plug plants: Make individual holes for each plant, gently firm into the ground and water in. Regularly water and feed. Seeds: Sow under cloches in February or outdoors in March. Harvest: June – September.
Climbing French Beans	20cm	20cm	5cm	Full sun and fertile well drained soil. Sheltered site.	Plug plants: Plant out after risk of frost. Make an individual hole for each plant and stagger in double rows. Provide canes for climbing beans. Water and feed regularly. Sucessional sowing/planting recommended. Sow seed indoors in April or outdoors in late May. Harvest: July – September.
Dwarf French Beans	20cm	20cm	5cm
Runner Beans	15cm	60cm	5cm	Sheltered sunny position with fertile well drained soil.	Plug plants: Plant out after risk of frost. Make an individual hole for each plant, gently firm into the ground and water in. Provide secure canes or tepee, water and feed regularly. Sow seed indoors in April or outdoors in late May. Harvest July – late September.
Peas	5cm	In drills 12-15cm wide	5cm	Sheltered sunny position with fertile well drained soil.	For best results sow in large drills. Position seeds about 5cm apart and cover back over with soil. Water well. Provide climbing support. Plant in succession. Sow seed indoors in April or outdoors in late May. Harvest: July – September.
Cabbage	Sow thinly then transplant to 45 cm apart.	15cm apart, then transplant to 45cm apart	1cm	Full sun and fertile well drained pre-dug soil	Plug plants: Plant out in August for Spring harvesting or May for summer harvesting. Make an individual hole for each plant and gently firm into the ground. Water well straight away. Seeds: For spring harvesting sow in July or August, for summer harvesting sow in March or April. Thin seedlings to about 8cm apart. Once they have 5-6 leaves transplant to 45cm apart.
Broccoli	Plant plug plants 45cm apart.
Cauliflower	Sow thinly then transplant to 60 cm apart. Plant plug plants 60cm apart.	15cm apart, then transplant to 60cm apart	1 – 2cm	Full sun and fertile well drained pre-dug soil.	Plug plants: Plant out in June for Autumn/Winter harvesting or May for Summer/Autumn harvesting. Make an individual hole for each plant and gently firm into the ground. Keep well watered. Seeds: For Autumn/Winter harvesting sow outdoors in June, for Summer/Autumn harvesting sow in April or May. Thin seedlings to about 8cm apart. Once they have 5-6 leaves transplant to 45cm apart.
Brussels Sprouts	Sow thinly. Plant plug plants 75cm apart.	15cm	1cm	Full sun and fertile well drained soil.	Plug plants: Plant out in May-June leaving 75cm between plants. Make an individual hole for each plant, gently firm into the ground and water in. Seeds: Sow in March-April, thin the seedlings to 10cm apart then transplant in May-June leaving 75cm between plants. Harvest: August – February.
Tomatoes	Sow thinly. Plant plug plants 45cm apart.	75cm	1cm	Full sun and a sheltered spot in a fertile well drained soil or compost.	Plug plants: Plant outdoor varieties straight out in late May-June, or indoor varieties in April-May under glass. Make an individual hole for each plant and firm into the ground/container/grow bag. Ensure the plants are kept well watered and fed throughout the season. Seeds: Indoor types: Sow in January or February. Outdoor types: Sow in March-April. Harvest: June – September.
Chilies & Peppers		45cm
Herbs	15cm	15cm	1cm	Prefers sun and well drained soil.	Plug plants: Plant out in late May after risk of frost. Make a small hole for each plug plant, firm into the ground and water in. Keep well watered and fed throughout the season. Harvest: Throughout Summer.
Lettuce	Sow thinly.	30cm	1cm	Full sun and a fertile well drained soil.	Plug plants: Plant out in late May after risk of frost. Make a small hole for each plug plant, firm into the ground and water in. Keep well watered and fed throughout the season. Harvest: throughout Summer.
Salad
Onions	In 2cm drills	In 2cm drills	25cm	Full sun and a fertile well drained soil.	Sow directly to growing site from April onwards or indoors from February. Remove the smaller/weaker seedlings as they grow. Keep well watered and fed throughout the Summer. Harvest: May onwards.
Salad Onions	2cm	2cm	10cm
Cucumber Diana	30cm	Pots or growbags		Humid (indoors) fertile, moisture retentive soil.	Make an individual hole for each plant and gently firm into the compost. This variety must be grown indoors, plant into pots or growbags. Keep well watered and feed with tomato fertiliser. Soak the floor of the greenhouse twice a day to maintain level of humidity. Harvest: June – September.
Melon
Cucumber La Diva and Burpless tasty green.	30cm	45cm	2cm	Full sun and fertile moisture retentive soil.	Plug plants: Pre-dig holes with organic matter 30cm deep by 45cm wide. Mound each hole and plant 2-3 plug plants on each. Provide with a frame and train the plants to it. Water regularly and feed with tomato fertiliser. Seeds: Sow straight outside in growing postion. Prepare ground in same way as planting plug plants. Harvest: July – September.
Courgette	90cm	90cm	1cm	Full sun and fertile well drained soil.	Plug plants: Plant directly into growing site in June, make a hole for each plant and gently firm into the ground. Water and feed regularly. Seeds: Sow indoors: April. Transplant to growing site in June. Harvest: July – September.
Swede	Sow thinly	40cm	2cm	Full sun and fertile well drained soil.	Seeds: Thin seedlings until a 25cm spacing is created between plants. Regular watering is required. Sow May or June. Harvest: September – October.
Turnip	In 2cm drills	25 – 30cm	1cm	Full sun and fertile well drained soil.	Seeds: Thin seedlings gradually until 15cm spacing is achieved. Do not sow in May or June to avoid bolting. Keep well watered. Sow: July, August. Harvest: November – December.
Carrots	In 4cm drills	15cm	1 – 2cm	Full sun and fertile well drained soil.	Seeds: To deter Carrot Fly avoid thinning out, sow carefully so thinning is not necessary. Water regularly. Sow: Under cloches in March or unprotected in May. Harvest: June – September.
Beetroot	In 2cm drills	30cm	2cm	Full sun and fertile well drained soil.	Seeds: Thin seedlings to achieve 10cm between plants. Keep weed free and water regularly. Sow: Either under cloches in February or unprotected from April – June. Harvest: July – late September.
Leeks	15cm	30cm	15cm	Prefer a sunny aspect and well drained soil.	Plug plants: Position each plant into individual holes in late May, water into each hole – do not fill the hole back in. Harvest: September onwards.
Sweet Corn	30cm	30cm	5cm	Full sun and fertile well drained soil.	Plant outdoors in late May or June. Make individual holes for each plant and gently firm into the ground. Plant in blocks instead of rows. Water regularly, especially once cobs begin to form. Harvest: Remove a section of husk and squeeze a kernel, when the juice is milky the cob is ready.
Asparagus	20cm	60cm	20cm	Full sun and fertile well drained soil.	Position in trenches 20cm deep and 30cm wide, cover over with 5cm of soil. As the plants grow gradually fill the trench back in always leaving the very top of the plant showing. Cut back the foliage when yellow in Autumn. Harvest: 3rd season when tender.
Strawberries	20cm	20cm	5cm	Full sun and fertile well drained soil.	Plant out into hanging baskets, pots or the ground in late-May to June. Surround the base of the plant with straw (when planting in the ground). Water each plant in generously. Keep well watered and fed throughout the season. Harvest: July – September.

Gardening in Raised Beds

As gardeners we love to be outside in the garden either planting, digging, pruning or doing one of the many other jobs that always need doing.

However, I also think that what we would all agree is that it can be back-breaking!

One of the best ways to reduce wear and tear on your back is to plant in containers or to install a series of Raised Beds. Indeed if you like to grow vegetables or have an allotment then growing in Raised Beds is often the best way to succeed.

The advantages of Raised Beds:

• able to grow in otherwise unsuitable soil or locations
• improved drainage and soil structure
• extra height of soil increases rooting depth
• cloches, tunnels or frames can easily be erected over the beds
• no need to walk on the soil
• you can work at a comfortable height
• especially handy for wheelchair users and those with back problems
• soil compaction is greatly reduced if not eliminated
• close planting creates a micro-climate which leads to healthy plants and bigger crops.

Take a look at this short video from Harrod Horticultural which shows you the advantages of gardening in raised beds:

If you are good at DIY then you should be able to build your own Raised Beds as they did on Gardeners World (click here to see how to build your own).

However, these days there are quite a number of easy to assemble, low maintenance plastic Link-a-Bord kits available on the market which make starting your Raised Bed Garden so much more quick and easy. Harrod Horticulture has a number of different Raised Bed Kits available as well as a wide range of accessories such as Hoops, Covers, Liners and Irrigation Kits so take a look now to find your ideal solution:

Standard Timber Raised Beds	Superior Timber Raised Beds	Allotments Timber Raised Beds	Corner Timber Raised Beds	Manger Raised Planter	Timer Raised Bed Tables

To complete your new garden you will need top soil:

Rolawn Vegetable & Fruit Topsoil is a fertile, organic rich, friable topsoil derived from prime arable land and a consistent organic matter, which ensures consistent results.  A bulk bag is exceptional value containing up to 50% more product than 1 tonne of ordinary topsoil  covering up to 20m² at a depth of 50mm. Also, there is currently a  multi-buy discount on orders of 2 bags or more. Order Now!

So whether you’re completely new to raised bed gardening, or you’re experienced in this simple, easy and highly effective way of growing, there’ll be something for you here…

Types of Plants – Ornamental Grasses

Ornamental Grasses thrive in open positions in full sun in the herbaceous border, as a specimen plant or in containers.

Care: Soil should hold moisture but be well drained and not too fertile. Do not deadhead as grasses can often look pretty during winter months and will add extra interest. Cut down to ground level in the spring to give room for the new growth. Propagate by division or seed.

Ornamental Grasses in our Garden: Below is a selection of grasses we have in our garden; click the image to Buy your Own

Festuca glauca – Elijah Blue

Stipa Gigantea – Golden Oats

Deschampsia caespitosa – Northern Lights

Plant of the Month for September – Japanese Anemone

Our plant of the month for September is Japanese Anemone.

Japanese Anemone are beautiful plants, are very easy to grow and flower their heads off from August through to the frosts. During September they are at their best when there are few other plants around. The Gardening Register has two varieties in the garden Anemone ‘September Charm’ and Anemone ‘Honorine Jobert’. Honorine Jobert has been in for nearly ten years now and it never ceases to amaze me every year. September Charm was planted last autumn so this is it’s first true flowering season. The plants need to bulk up a bit before they’ll be as showy as Honorine. Take a look at the plants in our garden.

They are happy in full sun or partial shade and prefer moist, fertile soil. They are fully hardy and flower between July and September or even to the frosts if you’re lucky.

To care for your Japanese Anemones:

• Cut back the stalks after the flowers have faded
• Tidy up old dead leaves in March
• Apply a generous 5-7cm (2-3in) mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant in spring
• Avoid moving the plant since it resents disturbance
• Where necessary lift and divide congested clumps in early spring

BUY NOW

Click here to see the whole range of Japanese Anemone from Crocus.co.uk

Make your own Compost

Composting can be as simple or as complex as you want to make it and the best part is that it can consist of any organic material that we all have access to every single day from the lawn, the garden, and the kitchen.

You can even re-cycle the leaves which fall during Autumn to make wonderful leafmould which is an ideal soil improver.

Compost is what happens when leaves, grass clippings, vegetable and fruit scraps, woodchips, straw, and small twigs are combined, then allowed to break down into a soil-like texture. Compost introduces and feeds diverse life in the soil, including bacteria, insects, worms, and more which support vigorous plant growth.

Compost is multi-faceted but not intended as a fertilizer. It offers only a relatively low proportion of nutrients, yet what it does is close to magical. In its finished form as mulch, it reduces evaporation, reduces or prevents weed growth, and insulates the soil from extreme temperature changes. Mulch also keeps the upper inches of the soil cooler in daytime and warmer at night.

Regardless of the particular ingredients, making compost is akin to making bread or beer; soil-digesting bacteria like yeasts need warmth, moisture, air and something to feed on to keep them alive and growing. Almost all of the practical problems associated with making compost stem from too much or too little of those basic factors.

Compost is created from layers of grass clippings, leaves, weeds, kitchen scraps and, if available, farm animal manure. If you have meat eaters in your home, don’t use their meat scraps as they will attract rodents. Also, do not use litter from your dog or cat; it doesn’t break down properly and contains too many pathogens.

Over the years, composting has gotten a reputation for being a time-consuming job, but this is not necessarily the case. You don’t need to build a big box or turn the pile every so often. A barrel, a hole in the ground or a pile on top of the ground is satisfactory.

The important requirement is to be sure the waste material is covered with soil, so it doesn’t attract rats, other rodents or flies. You can build your layers directly on the ground, without any frame at all; if you use a container, be sure it is well ventilated.

The trick to successful compost is balancing ingredients high in nitrogen; fresh grass clippings, other fresh, green plant matter, most kitchen scraps – with those high in carbon; leaves, straw, dried grass, washed eggshells, wheat germ or other milled grains that have become too rancid or old to use, and any dried, brown plant matter. Too much nitrogenous matter yields an anaerobic, smelly pile. Too much carbonaceous matter results in a pile that never heats up. The ideal ratio is one part nitrogen to three parts carbon.

Start with a layer of small twigs, no large branches, a couple of inches deep; this will help your pile to breathe. Then, keeping in mind the 1 to 3 ratio of nitrogen to carbon, add a layer of mixed plant material. You may enrich the pile with horse or cow manure. These materials don’t break down; they simply add nutrients to the final product. Then lightly water the pile so it’s evenly moist. Too much water will interfere with aeration; too little water and the pile won’t ferment. If your pile sits in the open, you should cover it if heavy rains are forecast. An 8-inch layer of straw mulch spread over the top of the pile serves the same purpose.

Alternate layers until the pile is 5 feet high by 5 feet wide by whatever length you choose. A properly made pile that is loosely packed and well aerated will reach an internal temperature of 160 degrees within a few days. It should smell like wet hay. If the pile fails to heat up, pull it apart and redo it by adding layers of fresh green matter. If the pile becomes anaerobic (is too wet to aerate), pull it apart, let it dry out, use it as mulch and start a new pile.

After three weeks, the pile will have shrunk in size; this is normal. Dig into the pile with a fork and completely turn it over until the contents are redistributed; the idea is to put unfermented particles in contact with those that are further along. Let the pile rest, so the temperature will rise again. Turn it a second time five weeks later, let it rest a few weeks and, with luck, you’ll have a rich, crumbly pile of “black gold.”

Aquatic Gardening

There are several points you need to consider before building your pond or water feature. Should it be formal or informal, natural or modern? Do you want to keep fish, grow plants or attract wildlife? Are there children to keep safe?

Once you have answered these questions you need to decide where you want to site the pond or water feature. A pond should be kept away from big trees and shrubs so ensure their roots don’t puncture the lining. If you want to keep fish you need to have a pretty deep pond to stop it freezing over the winter. The smallest you should build a pond is 60cm (2ft) deep and 1 x 1.5m (3 x 5ft) across. However, the bigger the better.

If childrens’ safety is and issue or you prefer not to have to maintain a pond then a water feature is an excellent compromise. You could build a wall fountain or a pebble pool which can be sited in sun or shade near to a power supply. If you do not have external power then a wide plant container or half a barrel, without drainage holes, is ideal. You can still grow small aquatic plants or use floating oxygenators such as water hyacinth. You will need to protect them during winter or empty the container and start again in the spring.

For more about aquatic gardening visit these articles: Build a Garden Pond and Pond Plants

Sharp Sand

Question:

Does “sharp sand” have a place in the garden?

Answer:

Sharp sand is used to improve drainage by either digging it directly into the soil or by mixing with compost when planting in containers.
It is also used in building works; mixing with concrete etc.

However, it shouldn’t be used in childrens’ play areas; there are special “safe” sands for this use.

Tomatoes and Olives

Question:
How do I nurture a tumbling tomatoe plant that we have hanging in a basket? How do I ensure a good crop? There are very small green baby tomatoes at present. Does it need repotting as it looks a bit big now for the basket

I bought the most gorgeous olive tree a couple of months ago. Its about 2.5 feet tall. I repotted it in John Innes No 3 mixed with grit. Is it right to keep it very moist initially? What feed, if any, should I use? How do I know its healthy?

Answer:
Your tumbling tomato plant will need lots of watering to stop the fruits splitting and it will need feeding every week with a tomato feed to ensure a good healthy crop. They really need to be in a very sunny spot for the fruit to ripen successfully. I have never been able to grow tomatoes outside as my garden is north facing and doesn’t get much sun. I wouldn’t re-pot it; it should be fine if you keep feeding and watering.

Olives are not entirely hardy in the UK so will need some protection during cold and frosty periods. You were right to plant in a well-drained mix of compost and grit. Although they can cope with dry periods, olives in containers need regular watering and feeding to produce fruit. During the growing season keep the compost moist and feed every month. In winter, you can reduce watering, but don’t let the compost dry out completely. As long as the leaves are undamaged and there is sign of new growth you can assume the plant is healthy. If the plant is kept in a very sunny location you may even get fruit after a couple of years.

Moving Monkey Puzzle Tree

Question:
We have planted a monkey puzzle tree from a container it did not have very big roots but looked very healthy a couple of the bottom branches are dying but the rest looks ok can you give me any advice on growing and feeding my tree as I would hate to lose it.

Answer:
All trees and shrubs take time to get established following a move, as long as you are keeping it well watered it should be OK.

However, the monkey puzzle trees like full sun and well-drained soil so check that it isn’t sitting in water and move it to a sunny area if it isn’t located in one currently.

The monkey puzzle tree is slow growing but can eventually grow to a height of 60-70ft and a width of 30-35ft so may eventually outgrow your garden. I know you’ve only just moved it out of a container but it may be better to grow it in a pot but the pot needs to be of considerable size in order for the tree to reach it’s full potential. Make sure you feed it regularly with a general feed such as pelleted chicken manure and mulch the surface with some well rotted organic matter such as manure. If it out grows its pot, wait until the autumn then re-pot in a large pot with plenty of drainage holes. Add some crocks or broken clay pots into the bottom to help drainage and to help stop it falling over, then fill with a good quality compost. Add a general feed such as pelleted chicken manure and mulch the surface with some well rotted organic matter such as manure. Each year you should top up the compost level, feed and add more organic matter.

If you do want to keep it in the ground keep it well watered during the first year and feed and mulch in the autumn.

Questions for March 2008

Question

I bought a Grevillea plant today the guy at the garden centre just said it grows to about 3 feet and flowers until June I have since found there are many types mine has pink and black flowers on pine like branches what is the general rule of where to plant type of soil etc any tips welcomed thank you

Answer

It seems to be quite tender and prefers a light, sandy soil. Plant it out in a sunny, sheltered spot and perhaps protect it when the weather is severe. You shouldn’t need to prune it unless you want to keep it to a certain size or shape, if you do wish to prune it do it once flowering has finished.

Question

I want to replace my Acer in the garden. Is it ok to plant a new one in the same place as the one I am now digging out?

Answer

As long as the Acer you are replacing is healthy then I can see no reason why planting another would cause problems. Ensure you remove all the roots of the old tree and dig a hole twice the size of the root ball of the new tree. Add lots of well rotted compost to the soil when back-filling. Water if it doesn’t rain but ensure it doesn’t get waterlogged.

Question

I have a wisteria tree which is well established (over 25 years); it is situated in my front garden and has been trained to grow over an archway and along the side of my garage. We have invested in a larger vehicle and as a result need to widen our driveway area which impinges on where the wisteria trunk is sited. As we will be digging up this area to lay a new driveway and paving area, rather than lose the wisteria, we wondered whether once the roots are exposed whether it would be possible to re-site the trunk a few metres away and re-bed in the new paving without causing damage to the tree.

Answer

I am not confident that you will be able to easily re-site your wisteria.  As a rule a tree’s roots spread the same distance underground as their branches do above ground so I would doubt that you would be able to remove all the roots without damaging them and therefore risking the tree. Having said that it sounds as if you have to remove the tree anyway so it may be worth the risk. If you decide to go ahead you should dig a hole in the new location before you begin removing the tree. Make sure the hole is wide enough and deep enough to contain all the roots and add lots of well rotted compost to give it as much help as possible. You may need to detach some branches from the support wires prior to moving. Once you are ready, carefully expose as much root as you can and only cut off roots if absolutely necessary. The most important roots are the smaller fibrous roots which take up the goodness in the soil, the bigger roots are there to hold the tree in place and seek out water further below the surface. Before laying the new paving give the tree lots of water each day for as long as you can to help it establish. If it does happen to die off you could always use it as support for another climber such as a clematis or honeysuckle.

Question

I bought a Cistus snow white yesterday and planted it by the instructions on the plant card however when I looked on the Internet it says not to use organic compost not to mulch and not to feed I used multi purpose compost give it a feed with miracle grow all of which the plant card suggested will it harm it or should I dig it up.

Answer

Cistus plants are originally from the dry, rocky soils of the Mediterranean, which means that they like poor, sandy soils so do not need fertile soil or fertilisers. I must admit that when I planted my first Cistus I also used compost and feed and it did OK. You may find it possibly won’t do as well as had you planted it in poor soil but as long as you don’t add any more mulch or feed then it will be OK in future years. However, if you have only just planted it, you should be able to dig it up quite easily if you prefer to replant. If you do just dig a hole and pop it in! The good news is that this plant copes with fairly extreme droughts so does not need much watering and loves strong sunlight. Also, this is one of the few Cistus plants that respond well to occasional pruning of its stems.

Questions for February 2008

Question

I have a Xylosteum (fly honeysuckle) growing in my garden. Please could you tell me if the red berries growing in the winter are poisonous? I have several young children and am concerned for their welfare.

Answer

The berries on the fly honeysuckle are mildly poisonous so I wouldn’t > take a chance near small children.

Question

We have recently purchased a property with a Bore, the Bore water has a high Iron content, and although my newly planted garden isn’t affected by this my neighbour has reported that he has lost his plants due to the Iron levels in the water. So my question is will the Iron affect the growth of my plants? (The Iron level isn’t extreme; it is still suitable for drinking)

Answer

I have tried to do some research on this but can’t find an awful lot on the subject. The usual problem in gardens is lack of iron as a lot of plants are unable to absorb the iron the soil. I would think that as long as you look after your soil and plant good quality specimens your plants should be OK. Keep the site well drained and add plenty of well rotted organic matter each year to improve the structure. Sorry I couldn’t offer more help.

Question

I live on a estate where when I come out of my flat I come on to a dark outside landing that gets little natural light I was wondering if there was any type of trees shrub I and my fellow neighbours could put in to pots that would brighten the place up I would like some thing that would grow to around 6ft I did thing about conifers but I believe like a lot of trees and plants they need a fair amount of sunshine and /or natural light if you can think of anything I would be grateful preferably something that would be evaluable in your average garden centres

Answer

Firstly you could try ferns. These come in various sizes, not as tall as 6ft but some can reach 3ft and have a good texture. Alternatively, why not put an obelisk into a container and grow ivy up it, twining it in and out as it grows to make it bush out. There are some lovely brightly coloured ivy such as Sulphur Heart. For a long term investment you could try a climbing hydrangea. I have one on the back wall of my house. It faces north and never gets any sun, it won’t grow as big as it says in the description and you can prune it each year if needed and it still flowers well. Here’s a link so you can see what it looks like. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/climbers/other-climbers/hydrangea-anomala-subsp.-petiolaris/itemno.PL00003342/. For a short-term show you could try a few hanging baskets or containers filled with Busy Lizzies. They won’t flower as long or as bright as when they are in sunlight but you should get a few weeks out of them and they will tolerate being dried out if they don’t get watered for a while. In all cases you will need to ensure the soil is of good quality and add some well rotted organic matter to help retain moisture. Either re-pot or top-up the containers each year to keep them fresh.

Questions for August 2007

Question:

I bought a lavender tree lavandula dentata I planted about 6weeks ago it does say its hare had only the odd night of frost but don t expose to prolonged frost we have had only the odd night of frost since I bought it I have noticed today there are one or two brown spikes on it and the rest seem to be drooping I have given it a feed of miracle grow rose and shrub food I am been unduly concerned will it perk up when the weather gets warmer and is there any thing I can specifically do to help it.

Answer:

Unfortunately Lavandula dentate (French Lavender) is not hardy in the UK so should be kept indoors during the winter. You could try bringing it in now, keeping it warm for the next few weeks to see if it perks up. Don’t cut off the brown spikes just yet. If you still have some green growth by the end of April then prune it back before placing outdoors for the summer. Be careful not to prune into any old or brown woody parts of the plant as it will never re-grow from these areas.

Question:

I would like to know if I could put my magnolia in a container as I am moving house and the garden is all slabs, it is around 2 to 3 years old and around 4 foot.

Answer:

My mum has successfully grown her magnolia in a pot for years and it always looks good. I assume it is in the ground at the moment so you will have to carefully lift it ensuring you don’t damage the roots. Make sure it doesn’t dry out before placing it in as large a pot as possible. Put lots of crocks in the bottom to help drainage and add a slow release fertilizer to the soil around the plant. Each year top off the plant with new compost and / or manure to keep the soil well fed. You may find it goes into shock this year but it should be OK by next year’s flowering season. You will find that the plant won’t grow as big as it would if it was in the ground and it may not live as long either.

Question:

I currently live in West Sussex and do hope that you can give me some advice on the Meyers lemon tree that I purchased last year. You see I am new to the way of gardening here in England, as I spent most of my gardening life in the tropical area of South Africa where it never gets really cold. As I have already mentioned I purchased a lemon tree, which I put into a huge pot on my patio, but now I see that during the course of winter it has lost all its leaves and a lot of the tips of the branches have gone brown. I did not place it indoors, as I do not have the strength to be lugging it around – nor did I cover it with anything. My question is do I throw the tree away or do you think it will pick up again in spring.

Answer:

Unfortunately citrus plants will not survive outside during an English winter. However, having said that, if you have not had a hard frost and it’s in a sheltered position then you may get away with it. I wouldn’t give up on it just yet. Buy some horticultural fleece (available from garden centres or the larger DIY stores, cover it for the rest of the winter and make sure it doesn’t get too wet. If it’s survived you should see new leaves appearing when the weather warms up during April/May.

Question:

Can you please tell me any plants besides Aubrietia that you can plant in the top of a walled raised bed to hang over or to plant vertically in the wall?

Answer:

Please find below some suggestions. Most of these are alpines and do require a well drained soil. Cerastium (Snow-in-summer) – colour: white Iberis (Candytuft) – colour: white Linaria (Toadflax) – colour: various – there is an upright version of this too Saponaria (Soapwort) – colour: pink. You could also consider planting a nice coloured, small leaved ivy to trail down and plant some low growing alpines, such as Thrift to add some height. If you don’t mind a bit of work you could consider planting trailing geraniums or other colourful annuals each year.

Question:

Our neighbours have just built an extension, the side wall of which overlooks our back garden. Unfortunately, a variety of bricks have been used and they haven’t been spaced out very well with the result that the wall overlooking our back garden is unsightly and also oppressive. We would like a fast growing plant which would hide the wall. The wall goes up to 310 cm in height. Please could you advise us as to what would be the best plant to hide this wall and which would grow quickly?

Answer:

My ideal would be ivy. There are lots of different varieties giving you a wide selection of leaf sizes and colours which are evergreen. Once established it is extremely fast growing and also has the benefit of being able to climb without support and will grow in any situation. The other is the Montana range of Clematis which again is very fast growing and has the extra benefit of fragrant flowers in the spring. However you will need to erect some sort of support structure such as trellis or wires before planting. A sunny site will give the best results. Which ever plant you choose make sure you don’t plant it too close to the wall as it won’t be able to get as much water as it needs. If you go to my Plant your Garden page http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/planting.htm.  You will see an advert from Crocus. If you click the Climbers box you will be able to enter some information about the location and features required and receive a number of suggestions back.

Question:

I’ve got a question about holly trees that you might be able to answer for me…! As you know – you need male and female holly for the female plant to produce berries, but do the male and female plant need to be the same variety?? I have a silver queen (male) and a golden king (female) – will I get berries from this??

Answer:

I have double checked and you only need to have one male holly, of any variety, to pollinate several female plants of any variety. Therefore the two you have will do fine; the female plant will produce the berries, not the male. If you’d like more berries you could buy another female variety.

Question:

I am the General Manager of a psychiatric unit in London. We have recently built a secure steel balcony to provide additional outdoor space to one of our first floor wards. The construction is a ‘metal cage’ with a very raw look to it and I would appreciate it if you could give me some ideas on the types of plants we would use to brighten up the area. The balcony is south facing and I would preferably like ones that are easy to manage and stay evergreen so there is colour all year round. Have you any suggestions. The main problem is that for safety reasons we can not use climbing plants as patients could use these to climb up and fall, we can not use plants that have poisonous leaves or berries as patients could eat these and we are unable to use plants that have sharp edges as patients may use these to self harm or ones that attract bees in case of allergic reaction to possible bee stings. In addition, we would require the plants to be in pots that are too heavy for a patient to lift in case they throw them. As you can see from a non-gardeners point of view I am struggling to find the appropriate plants and your assistance and advice would be very welcome.

Answer:

I’ve come up with some ideas and attach an outline of a plan which may be of interest. My first thought was to fit a bench across the left-hand 2.4m section. This could be attached to the balcony and would allow seating for a few people. I have also left room for quite a large table and six chairs. Your idea of galvanized containers screwed into the patio seems a good idea and I’ve found a couple of sites which may be able to provide them. and http://shop.theurbangarden.co.uk/product_select.asp?prtID=49&d=planters. The alternative is to have a raised bed built into the corner which is also attached to the balcony as per my plan. You could have it built as one big “box” or if you had six separate boxes they could be tiered so that the outermost ones are lower than the top ones. This would provide more interest and allow for plants to cascade the corners of each “box”. As for plants. My initial thought is to use Herbs. These are usually soft and are, of course, edible. For added interest I thought a few grasses. I have found a few examples of my thoughts on Crocus.co.uk and have attached a link to their page so you can find out a little more about them. Fennel (especially Bronze which is a lovely colour) these grow to about 1.8m but not very wide so you could fit in quite a few. They are light and move with the wind giving a feeling of movement. I find it best to snip off the flowers to avoid them going to seed and ruining the look. Also, they will die down for the winter but this also means it doesn’t take over. To compliment the colour and movement of the Fennel I thought a few soft grasses would be nice. They tend to give great autumn colour and if left over the winter they provide structure and look nice when frosted. They will have to be cut back to allow the new growth through but it’s not a hard job. Here are a couple of examples. For an evergreen look I think Rosemary would be good. They can grown quite big so may need keeping in check but they are very hardy and don’t require much maintenance. They are usually a rich dark green with lavender/blue flowers during the summer. To compliment the rosemary how about Lavender. There are lots of varieties around but you need to have a good hardy one to see you through the winters. To break-up the front of the containers/bed I suggest planting a few “lesser” periwinkles. These come in white, lilac or purple in lots of different shades. The leaf colours also differ so you could find one you like. The “greater” periwinkles have bigger flowers and grow too big and fast for containers. Just tuck them into the corners of each “box” and let them hang down. They do spread so you may need to pull them up to avoid them taking over the whole container. Finally, I thought the little space near the entrance could do with something. Mint is a great herb but extremely invasive so it is ideal in its own container. There are lots available, such as pineapple mint and apple mint so again you should find some you like. They will die down for the winter but will come back each spring. Regardless of the containers you use you will have to ensure that there is adequate drainage in the bottom. Punch some holes in the base of the containers and lift them slightly off the floor. To help the drainage and keep the weight down fill the bottom of the containers with a good layer of polystyrene which you get in packaging. Use good quality compost and add some vermiculite which will also help keep the weight down but will also aid drainage. I would also add a slow release fertilizer and some water-retaining granules. You won’t be able to use hard mulch so I would top off the planting with a good layer of well-rotted manure. This will help retain moisture, keep weeds down and add goodness to the soil. Each autumn you should add another layer.

Plants for Containers

Question:

We have a side 3ft gate (adjacent to pavement verge/road) set into a well established 8ft hedge of mixed varieties. We cannot plant as the area is a concreted path so…. have you any suggestions of a large POTTED plant that we could place against the gate to provide ourselves some privacy (gate does not need to be in use). The spot gets the sun (when it’s out!) most of the day and is in a pretty sheltered location.

Answer:

There are lots of plants which are happy to be kept in containers long term.
The important things to remember are:
• Use as large a pot as possible even if the plant looks a bit “odd” to begin with, it will soon fill it’s space
• Place stones, broken up bricks or broken clay pots in the bottom of the pot to aid drainage and provide stability
• Use a good quality compost and add manure and a general fertiliser to help get it doing
• Don’t overfill the pot, leave a good 2-3 inches to ease of watering.
• Fill the pot with water and leave it to seep through the compost, once you see the water escape from the bottom you know its watered correctly
• Don’t overwater and don’t allow it to dry out completely.
• Top dress with a layer of manure, bark, slate or gravel to help keep moisture in and weeds out
• Each autumn, remove any weeds or moss which may have grown on the surface, remove the top inch or so of compost and replace with a mulch such as manure or bark
• To also help retain moisture you can add some Moisture Retaining Gel
• If you want to grow acid lovers such as camellias or rhododendrons use an ericaceous compost
• Buy some pot “feet” to raise it off the ground, this will allow water to escape more easily and stop water-logging

Here are some examples of plants that should do well.

I have included a link to the relevant pages on Crocus.co.uk for you to find out more, just click on the links:

Camellia – acid loving so use ericaceous compost
Olive – if you live in a milder area this can be grown without protection, otherwise cover with fleece during frosty periods
Phormium – quite a dramatic plant which may also need some protection
Acer – there are lots of varieties available and most of them have wonderful autumn colour, prefers acid soil
Hibiscus – I have one grown as a standard and it looks great
Cherry Tree – you can get lots of ornamental cherries which have great spring blossom. I have just bought a “Stella” cherry tree and planted it in a pot, it should start producing edible cherries very soon
Rosemary – although this is a herb it produces a good sized shrub. Prune it to a pyramid or other shape for interest. The smell is wonderful and, of course, you can use it in the kitchen
Clematis – place a nice obelisk in the pot and grow a couple of clematis for colour. They will die down for winter but will be great for quite a few months
Box – evergreen shrub which can again be pruned into a pyramid. I wrap fairy lights around mine at Christmas time and move to by the front door

You could plant up two pots, one for summer and one for winter interest and swap them over. You can get wheeled pot trays to make moving them easier, they are available at most garden centres as well as B&Q.

Our Plant of the Month for February – Camellia

Camellias are wonderful plants giving amazing splashes of colour on bleak February days. The glossy dark green foliage remains throughout the year to add interest at all times.

This particular camellia has been growing in a container in my North facing garden for about eight years and always rewards me with lots of these deep pink flowers during late Winter and early Spring. The variety is Camellia x Williamsii Debbie.

Camellias are well suited for pots and containers, but they need acid compost, a reasonably large pot and regular watering to thrive. Once the flowers have faded they drop off the plant meaning no dead-heading, making this shrub a practically maintenance free plant.

Below are a selection of Camellia on sale a Crocus.co.uk, click on the pictures for more information:

Feeding Carrots

Question: If you don’t add manure or compost, what can I add to feed carrots? Answer: Carrots don’t need to be fed to produce a good crop. If manure or other feed is added to the soil it tends to cause the carrots to “fork”. If you are planting in containers just use a good quality compost and they should be fine. If you are planting in the ground they should be able to find enough nutrients from the soil.

Pet Prescriptions V

Petmeds
Vasotop Singles:1.25mg
For the treatment of congestive heart failure (NYHA decompensation grades II-IV) in dogs. Vasotop can be used in combination with diuretics, and the cardiac glycosides, digoxin or methyl-digoxin.
£0.46

Petmeds
Vasotop Singles:2.5mg
For the treatment of congestive heart failure (NYHA decompensation grades II-IV) in dogs. Vasotop can be used in combination with diuretics, and the cardiac glycosides, digoxin or methyl-digoxin.
£0.73

Petmeds
Vasotop Singles:5mg
For the treatment of congestive heart failure (NYHA decompensation grades II-IV) in dogs. Vasotop can be used in combination with diuretics, and the cardiac glycosides, digoxin or methyl-digoxin.
£0.98

Petmeds
Ventipulmin Granules
Treatment of respiratory disease in horses where airway obstruction due to bronchospasm and/or accumulation of mucus is a contributing factor, and improved mucociliary clearance is desirable
£39.51

Petmeds
Ventipulmin Multidose Injection Soluble
Treatment of respiratory disease in horses where airway obstruction due to bronchospasm and/or accumulation of mucus is a contributing factor and improved mucociliary clearance is desirable.
£35.63

Petmeds
Ventipulmin Syrup
Treatment of respiratory disease in horses where airway obstruction due to bronchospasm and/or accumulation of mucus is a contributing factor and improved mucociliary clearance is desirable.
£40.18

Petmeds
Vetmedin Capsules (Singles):5mg
Please enter the quantity your prescription permits to purchase this item.
£0.48

Petmeds
Vetmedin Flavoured Tablets (Singles)-1.25mg
Vetmedin Flavoured Tablets (Singles)-1.25mg
£0.25

Petmeds
Vetmedin Flavoured Tablets (Singles)-5mg
Vetmedin Flavoured Tablets (Singles)-5mg
£0.72

Petmeds
Vetoryl Capsules:10mg
Vetoryl Capsules:10mg
£0.69

Petmeds
Vetoryl Capsules:120mg
Vetoryl is for the treatment of pituitary-dependent and adrenal-dependent hyperadrenocorticism in dogs.
£2

Petmeds
Vetoryl Capsules:30mg
Vetoryl is for the treatment of pituitary-dependent and adrenal-dependent hyperadrenocorticism in dogs.
£0.94

Petmeds
Vetoryl Capsules:60mg
Vetoryl is for the treatment of pituitary-dependent and adrenal-dependent hyperadrenocorticism in dogs.
£1.21

Petmeds
Vidalta Tablets-10mg
Vidalta Tablets-10mg
£0.39

Petmeds
Vidalta Tablets-15mg
Vidalta Tablets-15mg
£0.52

Petmeds
Vivitonin Tablets – 100mg
Please enter the quantity your prescription permits in to the box
£0.42

Petmeds
Vivitonin Tablets – 50mg
Please enter the quantity your prescription permits in to the box
£0.24

Petmeds
Voren Suspension
Voren Suspension contains a potent long acting corticosteroid with a therapeutic effect lasting for approximately 4 days.
£16.13

Pet Prescriptions R

Petmeds
Rearguard
For the prevention of blowfly strike (Lucilia sericata) in domestic rabbits for 10 weeks after dosing.
£14.13

Petmeds
Regumate Equine 0.22% – 1 litre
In mares with significant follicular activity during the transitional period between seasonal anoestrus and in the breeding season
£113.24

Petmeds
Regumate Equine 0.22% – 150ml
In mares with significant follicular activity during the transitional period between seasonal anoestrus and in the breeding season
£30.61

Petmeds
Regumate Porcine
For the synchronisation of oestrus and improvement of litter size in sexually mature gilts
£42.55

Petmeds
Rilexine Tablets – Singles:300mg
Rilexine can be dispensed in any quantity. Enter the number your prescription permits into the ‘Quantity’ box.
£0.59

Petmeds
Rilexine Tablets – Singles:600mg
Rilexine can be dispensed in any quantity. Enter the number your prescription permits into the ‘Quantity’ box.
£0.8

Petmeds
Rilexine Tablets – Singles:75mg
Rilexine can be dispensed in any quantity. Enter the number your prescription permits into the ‘Quantity’ box.
£0.37

Petmeds
Rimadyl 2.4g Granules
Rimadyl Granules are a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) with anti-inflammatory, analgesic and antipyretic properties.
£62.22

Petmeds
Rimadyl Palatable Tablets (Large Brown):100mg
Rimadyl is for analgesia and reduction of chronic inflammation. View more details, then add the number of rimadyl tablets you rquire
£0.8

Petmeds
Rimadyl Palatable Tablets (Large Brown):20mg
Rimadyl is for analgesia and reduction of chronic inflammation. View more details, then add the number of rimadyl tablets you rquire
£0.29

Petmeds
Rimadyl Palatable Tablets (Large Brown):50mg
Rimadyl is for analgesia and reduction of chronic inflammation. View more details, then add the number of rimadyl tablets you rquire
£0.52

Petmeds
Rimadyl Singles (Small White):20mg
For analgesia and reduction of chronic inflammation
£0.35

Petmeds
Rimadyl Singles (Small White):50mg
For analgesia and reduction of chronic inflammation
£0.62

“Petmeds
Rimifin 50mg
Non steroid antiinflammatory drug which contains carprofen Carprofen can reduce inflammation and paon caused by musculo-skeletal disorders and degenerative joint disease. It can also be used as a follow up parenteral analgesia in the management of post-operative pain
£0.38

” Petmeds
Rispoval 4
For active immunisation of cattle to reduce infection, clinical signs and respiratory disease
£37.66

Petmeds
Rispoval RS
For the immunisation of cattle against RSV disease.
£26.56

Petmeds
Ronaxan Tablets – 100mg
For the treatment of respiratory tract infections in cats and dogs, including rhinitis, tonsillitis, bronchopneumonia and feline respiratory disease.
£0.85

Petmeds
Ronaxan Tablets – 20mg
For the treatment of respiratory tract infections in cats and dogs, including rhinitis, tonsillitis, bronchopneumonia and feline respiratory disease.
£0.42

Petmeds
Rotavec Corona – 10ml
For the active immunisation of pregnant cows and heifers to raise antibodies against E. coli adhesin F5 (K99) antigen, rotavirus and coronavirus.
£53.22

Petmeds
Rotavec Corona – 40ml
For the active immunisation of pregnant cows and heifers to raise antibodies against E. coli adhesin F5 (K99) antigen, rotavirus and coronavirus.
£207.81

Pet Prescriptions L

Petmeds
Leo Red Dry Cow
LEO RED Dry Cow is indicated for the management of subclinical infections present at drying off and to assist in preventing new infections occurring during the dry period.
£43.42

Petmeds
Leo Yellow Milking Cow
LEO YELLOW contains a combination of antibiotics which give a wide spectrum of in vitro antibacterial activity
£57.42

Petmeds
Leptavoid-H Leptospira Hardjo Vaccine – 20ml
For the vaccination of cattle against Leptospira interrogans serovar hardjo (hardjo Prajitno) and L. borgpetersenii serovar hardjo (hardjo Bovis).
£34.89

Petmeds
Leptavoid-H Leptospira Hardjo Vaccine – 50ml
For the vaccination of cattle against Leptospira interrogans serovar hardjo (hardjo Prajitno) and L. borgpetersenii serovar hardjo (hardjo Bovis).
£85.87

Petmeds
Linco-Spectin Soluble Powder
For the treatment of enteritis caused by Lawsonia intracellularis (ileitis) in pigs and antibacterial or antimycoplasmal therapy against sensitive organisms in poultry.
£67.2

Petmeds
Locovetic
A local anaesthetic for subcutaneous infiltration and peripheral nerve block in horses and domestic animals other than those producing food for human consumption.
£3.61

Petmeds
Lutalyse:10ml
Lutalyse is indicated for its luteolytic and/or oxytocic effect in cattle, horses and pigs
£11.39

Petmeds
Lutalyse:30ml
Lutalyse is indicated for its luteolytic and/or oxytocic effect in cattle, horses and pigs
£31.63

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