A New Lawn from Turf

Turf  is pre-grown grass, which is cut from the ground ready for you to use as an instant lawn.

There are two types of turf available, Cultivated and Meadow. Cultivated turf if the most expensive but it gives a good quality lawn. Meadow turf is cheaper but it may have weeds or bare patches so will require more initial maintenance.

When you order your turf make sure you arrange for its arrival on a day when you are available to lay it. It is important to lay your turf as soon as possible after it arrives to ensure success.

If you have had to leave it sitting for a while, give it a good watering before you begin to lay it.

You can lay turf from early autumn to late spring, as long as the ground not too dry, frozen solid, or boggy.

Laying turf is fast but it is at least 10 times more expensive than producing a lawn from seed.

Equipment Required

• A sharp spade
• A garden fork
• A garden rake
• Special lawn fertiliser
• The turf
• A wooden plank
• A sharp kitchen knife

The Process

• Dig over or fork the ground the soil removing stones and roots as you go
• Rake the soil gently until level
• Sprinkle on fertilizer at the recommended rate and rake it in
• Tread over the whole area, sinking your weight well down into your heels to consolidate the soft patches
• Rake again to cover the footprints
• Without walking on the prepared ground, lay a line of turf in a straight row along one end of the area, butting their short sides up together
• Pat down the turf with the rake head so that each turf makes contact with the soil beneath
• Place your plank on the turf row you’ve just laid and walk along it as you lay the next row, staggering the joints between the turf like joints in brickwork
• Repeat, patting down each new row with the rake
• When you’ve covered the whole area, trim the outer edge of the turfed area with a sharp kitchen knife, so the lawn edge follows the shape of your beds
• Keep the area well watered for several days until the turf has knitted together
• Continue watering during dry spells

When the grass begins to grow cut the lawn with the blades set high so that only the tips are removed. The blades can be lowered as the lawn becomes more established.

If you laid your lawn in autumn then apply a quick-acting fertiliser in April or May. You can also add a top dressing to help smooth out any bumps and hollows.

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Find out how to produce a lawn from seed or click here to read other Lawn Care articles.

Plant of the Month for September – Japanese Anemone

Our plant of the month for September is Japanese Anemone.

Japanese Anemone are beautiful plants, are very easy to grow and flower their heads off from August through to the frosts. During September they are at their best when there are few other plants around. The Gardening Register has two varieties in the garden Anemone ‘September Charm’ and Anemone ‘Honorine Jobert’. Honorine Jobert has been in for nearly ten years now and it never ceases to amaze me every year. September Charm was planted last autumn so this is it’s first true flowering season. The plants need to bulk up a bit before they’ll be as showy as Honorine. Take a look at the plants in our garden.

They are happy in full sun or partial shade and prefer moist, fertile soil. They are fully hardy and flower between July and September or even to the frosts if you’re lucky.

To care for your Japanese Anemones:

• Cut back the stalks after the flowers have faded
• Tidy up old dead leaves in March
• Apply a generous 5-7cm (2-3in) mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant in spring
• Avoid moving the plant since it resents disturbance
• Where necessary lift and divide congested clumps in early spring

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Click here to see the whole range of Japanese Anemone from Crocus.co.uk

Which growing medium should I use?

Question:
I have read in a well known gardening book that plants do not like being transplanted into a different medium. Does that include transplanting from peat based raising plant medium to garden soil?

Answer:
I must admit I don’t worry too much about the different types of growing medium. I use a good quality everyday compost and if I need it to be free draining, or for sowing seeds and planting cuttings, I add grit or vermiculite, if I need it rich I add manure, if I need it more fertile I’ll add pelleted chicken manure. When planting into the garden I add compost to the planting hole but back fill with the garden soil I’ve removed from the hole so it is not such a shock for the plant. There are only two situations in which I use the “correct” medium and that is to use ericaceous compost/soil for acid lovers and aquatic soil for planting in ponds. So far this method has not caused me any problems.

Make your own Compost

Composting can be as simple or as complex as you want to make it and the best part is that it can consist of any organic material that we all have access to every single day from the lawn, the garden, and the kitchen.

You can even re-cycle the leaves which fall during Autumn to make wonderful leafmould which is an ideal soil improver.

Compost is what happens when leaves, grass clippings, vegetable and fruit scraps, woodchips, straw, and small twigs are combined, then allowed to break down into a soil-like texture. Compost introduces and feeds diverse life in the soil, including bacteria, insects, worms, and more which support vigorous plant growth.

Compost is multi-faceted but not intended as a fertilizer. It offers only a relatively low proportion of nutrients, yet what it does is close to magical. In its finished form as mulch, it reduces evaporation, reduces or prevents weed growth, and insulates the soil from extreme temperature changes. Mulch also keeps the upper inches of the soil cooler in daytime and warmer at night.

Regardless of the particular ingredients, making compost is akin to making bread or beer; soil-digesting bacteria like yeasts need warmth, moisture, air and something to feed on to keep them alive and growing. Almost all of the practical problems associated with making compost stem from too much or too little of those basic factors.

Compost is created from layers of grass clippings, leaves, weeds, kitchen scraps and, if available, farm animal manure. If you have meat eaters in your home, don’t use their meat scraps as they will attract rodents. Also, do not use litter from your dog or cat; it doesn’t break down properly and contains too many pathogens.

Over the years, composting has gotten a reputation for being a time-consuming job, but this is not necessarily the case. You don’t need to build a big box or turn the pile every so often. A barrel, a hole in the ground or a pile on top of the ground is satisfactory.

The important requirement is to be sure the waste material is covered with soil, so it doesn’t attract rats, other rodents or flies. You can build your layers directly on the ground, without any frame at all; if you use a container, be sure it is well ventilated.

The trick to successful compost is balancing ingredients high in nitrogen; fresh grass clippings, other fresh, green plant matter, most kitchen scraps – with those high in carbon; leaves, straw, dried grass, washed eggshells, wheat germ or other milled grains that have become too rancid or old to use, and any dried, brown plant matter. Too much nitrogenous matter yields an anaerobic, smelly pile. Too much carbonaceous matter results in a pile that never heats up. The ideal ratio is one part nitrogen to three parts carbon.

Start with a layer of small twigs, no large branches, a couple of inches deep; this will help your pile to breathe. Then, keeping in mind the 1 to 3 ratio of nitrogen to carbon, add a layer of mixed plant material. You may enrich the pile with horse or cow manure. These materials don’t break down; they simply add nutrients to the final product. Then lightly water the pile so it’s evenly moist. Too much water will interfere with aeration; too little water and the pile won’t ferment. If your pile sits in the open, you should cover it if heavy rains are forecast. An 8-inch layer of straw mulch spread over the top of the pile serves the same purpose.

Alternate layers until the pile is 5 feet high by 5 feet wide by whatever length you choose. A properly made pile that is loosely packed and well aerated will reach an internal temperature of 160 degrees within a few days. It should smell like wet hay. If the pile fails to heat up, pull it apart and redo it by adding layers of fresh green matter. If the pile becomes anaerobic (is too wet to aerate), pull it apart, let it dry out, use it as mulch and start a new pile.

After three weeks, the pile will have shrunk in size; this is normal. Dig into the pile with a fork and completely turn it over until the contents are redistributed; the idea is to put unfermented particles in contact with those that are further along. Let the pile rest, so the temperature will rise again. Turn it a second time five weeks later, let it rest a few weeks and, with luck, you’ll have a rich, crumbly pile of “black gold.”

Plant of the Month for May

Dicentra spectabilis or Bleeding Heart is one of the first plants to emerge in late spring and has arching sprays of dainty, rose-pink, heart-shaped flowers above fern-like, fresh green leaves.

It is extremely easy to grow and as long as the ground is moist it will thrive in full sun or partial shade and it looks great planted in groups towards the front of a shady border or as part of a cottage garden scheme.

Dicentras are happy in any good garden soil that is fertile but not too heavy. Enrich the soil with plenty of leaf mould before planting and apply a mulch in autumn too. A light fertilising in March will also help.

Clumps of dicentra remain compact for many years and do not need dividing however they have brittle roots and so do not like disturbance – instead, try taking root cuttings in spring.

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Here are a selection of Dicentra from Crocus.co.uk – click here to find out more or to go shopping

Dicentra spectabilis	Dicentra spectabilis ‘Alba’	Dicentra ‘Bacchanal’	Dicentra formosa ‘Aurora’	Dicentra ‘King of Hearts’