RHS Show Calendar

Here in the UK we have some of the best gardening shows in the world. They are great for getting inspiration for your own garden so why not book to see one or two of these great shows this year.

With the 2011 RHS show season an enjoyable memory, the groundwork has begun to ensure the 2012 shows are the best yet. At the forefront of horticulture, RHS shows provide inspiration for gardeners of all levels. Discover show gardens and floral displays featuring the latest trends while soaking up the vibrant atmosphere at a truly unique social occasion.

Abundant with top quality nurseries and gardening products, there is plenty of choice for the discerning gardener and, if you’re still stuck for ideas, the RHS advisory team and gardening experts are on hand.

If you are an RHS member you have priority booking before December 1st 2011 and discounts for Tatton Park and Hampton Court before January 1st 2012. Tickets go on general sale on December 1st.

2012 Show Dates

• RHS Show Cardiff – April 20th to 22nd
• Malvern Spring Gardening Show – May 10th to 13th
• RHS Chelsea Flower Show – May 22nd to 26th
• BBC Gardeners’ World Live – June 13th to 17th
• Hampton Court Palace Flower Show – July 3rd to 8th
• RHS Show Tatton Park – July 18th to 22nd
• Malvern Autumn Show –  September 29th to 30th

RHS Tatton Park Flower Show

Buy your tickets for the 2011 RHS Tatton Park Flower Show. This year’s show takes place between the 20th and the 24th July, ticket prices are:

Members

• In advance for Wednesday – £25.50
• In advance for Thursday to Sunday – £19.50
• On the day for Thursday to Sunday – £28

Highlights of this year’s show include:

• Fabulous collections of plants and flowers from leading nurseries
• Gardens inspired by the premier football teams of the region
• Over 30 children’s gardens and containers
• The exciting RHS National Young Garden Designer of the year returns again
• The College of the Year floristry competition
• Exclusive Ladies’ Day activities on Thursday
• Fine dining in a stunning setting with Fortnum & Mason

Visit the RHS website to find out more.

 

Saffron Crocus Bulbs have arrived

My Saffron Crocus bulbs arrived from Suttons just before my holiday so I have only just planted them. I chose to plant them in three medium sized bulb bowls so that I can keep them close to the house and keep my eye on them.

The instructions say they can be planted any time through to September but early August is the best time.

They should be ready to harvest from October but as mine were planted late it may be November before I can begin to collect the orange/red stigmas from the flowers.

Once harvested the plants should be left to die down naturally to allow the bulbs to regenerate for next year.

The stigmas will need to be dried out and will be able to be kept in an airtight jar for several years.

I’ll post an update once they are in flower.

Produce a colourful display in just a few weeks

Earlier in the year I decided to clear out a small bed which had become overgrown with conifers and ivy.

I dug out the roots and added some fertiliser and waited until the weather warmed up.

Over the last year or so I had accumulated a number of annual seed packets so in early June I took a small bucket, added some sharp sand and mixed all all the seeds.

Then, after watering, I scattered the seeds/sand mixture over the prepared area and covered it with garden netting to keep the birds away.

Within a couple of weeks the seedlings germinated and after another couple of weeks I was able to “prick out” the more densely sown areas.

Now in early July the bed is full of colour. Orange, yellow and pink Californian poppies and blue and white cornflowers and there are still lots of plants not yet in flower.

I would recommend this way of gardening to everyone; it’s easy, cheap and very rewarding.

I’ll post an update in a couple of weeks time when more flowers should be open.

When can I cut back Tulips?

Question:

When can I cut back the leaves of tulips after they have finished blooming or is it better to lift them and replant in autumn?

Answer:

You should cut off the flower stem once the flower has faded then wait at least six weeks before cutting back the leaves; ideally wait until the leaves are yellow and straw-like. During this time you should continue to water and feed.

You don’t have to lift the bulbs but if you need to move them you can lift them once the leaves have died down. Check the bulbs over and discard any which are damaged or diseased. Trim back the roots of each bulb and lay them on a tray to dry off for about a day. Dust lightly with sulphur to help prevent fungal rot. Store in a dry, cool place until the autumn when they can be planted in their new location.

Our Plant of the Month – Euphorbia

Euphorbias are a vast genus of fully hardy perennials with about 2000 varieties.

The like full sun or partial shade in light, well-drained soil. They are fast growing and flower during April and May with insignificant flowers. It is the bracts which give the colour, ranging from limey yellow to bright orange.

Euphorbia require little care, just cut back the faded flower stems in the autumn. Take care when working with euphorbia as the milky sap is poisonous and can cause skin irritations.

The Euphorbia in our garden is Euphorbia polychroma whose dark green, lance-shaped leaves are topped with a froth of bright, acid yellow spring flowers that form a distinctive star shape. In autumn the foliage turns a lovely shade of bronze.

Below is a selection of Euphorbias on sale at Crocus.co.uk, click on the pictures for more information:

Euphorbia griffithii ‘Fireglow’	Euphorbia × martini	Euphorbia amygdaloides ‘Purpurea’	Euphorbia characias Silver Swan (‘Wilcott’)

Giant Snowflake – Leucojum Gravetye Giant

My latest purchase for the garden in the Giant Snowflake, Leucojum Gravetye Giant.

The flowers are like large snowdrops and are borne on long bright green stems of about 14ins (36cm); they are a great addition to your Spring display.

I bought mine from B&Q, and for £3.98 there were five stems, some in flower some not. Once flowering is over I will plant the bulbs in the ground whilst still in the green. Hopefully within a few years they will have increased into a good sized clump.

I have had a look around the internet but haven’t found anyone selling them in the green but I’ll have a look again when the spring flowering bulbs go on sale and up-date the post if I find a good supplier.

Our Plant of the Month – Hamamelis (Witch Hazel)

One of the most spectacular plants in January is Hamamelis or Witch Hazel with the added bonus of brightly coloured leaves during the Autumn. The delicious scent from the spidery flowers is lovely at this time of year; bring a few flowering branches indoors to enjoy them all day long. The flower colours vary from bright yellow, through orange to a deep orange red, they appear in clusters along the bare branches during the winter and remain until the leaves arrive in the Spring. The Witch Hazel is a woodland plant and very low maintenance.

Crocus.co.uk are currently offering four varieties of Hamamelis, one of which is their plant of the month, click here for more information.

How can I train my Jasmine?

Question:

I have a jasmine which has been planted by the front door and have been trying to train it over the door but to be honest I’ve no idea what I’m doing. It has been there 12 years and has many trunks if you know what I mean. I don’t know if I should be cutting some of them out or what growth to cut out. As you can guess I’m a novice gardener.

Answer:

The first thing we need to do is establish which plant you have.

There are two main types of Jasmine, one flowers in Winter/Spring the other flowers in the summer and they need to be treated differently.

The most well known jasmine is Jasminum officinale which has white or cream flowers in the summer and is highly scented. It is most likely that your plant is this one as it is often planted by doorways to appreciate the scent. It don’t mind a little shade but the sun will bring out the scent; it should also be in a sheltered position. It can grow to 12m which makes them ideal for training over an arch but it can take over if it isn’t kept in check. You have two options at this point; prune it back and hope it recovers or get rid of it and start again.

If you want to try to rejuvenate it then follow these steps but bear in mind that all hard pruning can be risky and in most likelihood it will not flower this year:

• This work should be done during February or March but not if frost is expected

• First cut out any dead or really old stems right down to the base

• Cut down any remaining main stems to about 18”

• Cut back any stems growing out from the main stem to about 6”

• If possible remove the top layer of soil from around the base and replace with new top soil or compost

• Water well and top off with a thick layer of well rotted compost (this is called mulch)

• Keep well watered during dry spells

• Fertilise with a general fertiliser in the spring

Once the plant is cut down you will be able to see the trellis or arch so check that it is still sound and if not replace or repair it. Once the plant begins to grow you must regularly tie in the new growth to fill in any gaps up the trellis and keep tying them in right up to the top of the arch (don’t tie in too tight, leave some room for growth). Once the stems get too long just cut them to the length you want. Cut out or shorten any shoots which begin to grow outwards from the main plant to ensure that it doesn’t get too wide. When making your cuts always cut just above a “node” with a slanting cut. A node is a “join” on the stem, once cut, this join produces a new stem or a flower bud. Cutting below the “node” means you are cutting off the chance for a new flower or stem. The thing is that you want to produce a plant that you like the look of so if something doesn’t look good to you then cut it out or cut it down and let it re-grow to the shape and size you want.

Plants that grow close to a house, wall, or fence never get enough water from rain alone so need to be watered regularly particularly during dry spells, when it is developing buds or after a hard prune. Always keep a good layer of mulch on the surface of the soil which will help keep moisture in the soil and help stop weeds developing. Fertilise with a general fertiliser once a month from spring through to autumn.

If your plant flowers in Winter/Spring with yellow flowers then it is a Winter Flowering Jasmine which means that it develops it’s buds during the summer/autumn and therefore should not be pruned during the autumn or winter otherwise all the flowers will be lost. All pruning needs to take place once the flowers have gone over which is usually around April or May. They are very good for training over an arch but they only reach 2.5m so will not cover a large area. They like the sun but do not mind some shade. Follow the same steps as above but carry out the work in late spring or summer.

There is another plant, Trachelospermum, which has scented jasmine-like flowers and is often known as star jasmine. It is evergreen so if your plant does not keep it’s leaves in the winter then this isn’t the one you have. It is an excellent climber for a sunny, sheltered spot but does not survive outside in all areas. If you think this is your plant then let me know and I’ll let you know how to deal with it.

Chimonanthus Praecox (Wintersweet) not Flowering

Question:

I’ve had a Chimonanthus Praecox (Wintersweet) for 3 or 4 years now, but it still hasn’t flowered. It’s in a position where it gets the sun most of the day and it’s growing fine. Beautiful leaves in the spring/summer. Only thing I can think that is wrong is that I have it in a pot. Does anyone have any other ideas?

Answer:

I have done some research on this and it seems that it can take a few years for plants to flower so all is not lost, there is still time.

One of the problems with growing plants in pots is that, even when it rains quite heavily there is often not enough rain to give the plants enough moisture. As these plants hate being too dry I would ensure that you are watering regularly, especially when buds begin to appear and during particularly hot / dry periods. They also hate to be too wet so you should also put your pot on “pot feet” to allow any excess water to easily drain away. If the water doesn’t easily drain from the bottom of the pot then try re-potting in a mixture of compost and grit to improve drainage.

Finally, I’m not sure when you tend to do your pruning but being winter flowering you should prune in Spring to ensure that you don’t inadvertently remove any developing buds.

Tritonia Rubrolucens and Hippeastrum (Amaryllis)

Question:

Could you please tell me how best to deal with the foliage of “Tritunia rudrolucens” and “Hipeastrum advenum”now that the flowers have finally died off, leaving climps of foliage 12 to 18 inches high.

Answer:

Do you mean Tritonia rubrolucens and Hippeastrum (Amaryllis)? If so here is how to deal with each of them. If these are not the plants you are enquiring about could you please double check the spellings and get back to me.

Hippeastrum or commonly known as Amaryllis are usually grown as an indoor plant for Christmas; with some care you can get these to re-flower year after year. Here’s how: stop watering and put the plants in their pots into a frost free place for the summer. They will usually die back within a couple of months but if you want to you can cut back the foliage. Keep them dormant until about October at which time you can bring them into a light position indoors and begin feeding and watering. With a bit of luck they will re-flower for Christmas next year.

Tritonia are similar to Crocosmia but are not very hardy so they should only be grown outdoors in mild area. If yours are outdoors and have started to die back cover the top of the plant with a good layer of mulch to allow them to die back and to keep them warm throughout the rest of the winter. If you grew them indoors then I suggest moving the pots into a frost free shed or greenhouse to let them dry out and for the foliage to die down. You can either leave them as they are until next autumn when you can redress the pots, water and bring indoors to flower. Alternatively, once the plants have dried out remove the compost from around the corms and leave the corms to dry out completely; next autumn re-plant the corms in fresh compost, water and bring indoors.

Onions and Garlic

Question:

I planted some garlic and onions in early November with the intent that they would sprout in the spring. Due to an unusual warm spell they have sprouted and are now about 6 inches tall and growing nicely. The problem of course is winter is coming (soon) and the plants are doomed unless there is something I can do. That of course is the question, is there anything I can do to save my crop?

Answer:

You are correct that something needs to be done to ensure your crop. The ideal thing would be to erect a makeshift poly-tunnel to keep off the worst of the cold and wet. If this isn’t possible perhaps just covering them with horticultural fleece would be sufficient. When onions and garlic are grown during a cold spell they do tend to bolt so the important thing is that they shouldn’t flower, once they do your crop is ruined so keep an eye on them and remove any buds that may form.

Types of Plants – Half Hardy Annuals

Like Hardy Annuals these plants live for just one season and will die after flowering and setting seed. However, they cannot stand the cold so should be planted out after all risk of frost has passed.

Care: Half Hardy Annuals cannot stand the cold so seeds are sown indoors in Spring and planted out once all the risk of frost has passed. Again it is important that the soil is not too rich or it will encourage leafy growth instead of lots of flowers.

If buying plants during late Spring clear the ground of all weeds and keep them well watered. Add plenty of well-rotted organic matter when planting and stake tall plants.

Deadheading regularly throughout the growing season will encourage more flowers although you may want to leave some flowers to allow them self-seed around the garden and save you some work.

In autumn once the plants begin to die down pull them up and put on the compost heap.

Half Hardy Annuals in our Garden: Below is a selection of half hardy annual we had in our garden this year; click the image to Buy your Own

Impatiens walleriana Envoy Peach Butterfly

Cosmos bipinnatus Psyche White

African Marigold Galore Mixed

Types of Plants – Hardy Annuals

Hardy Annuals are herbaceous plants that live for just one year; they will die after flowering and setting seed and should then be composted.

Care: Hardy Annuals can stand the cold so seeds are sown outdoors in Spring to flower during early Summer and it is important that the soil is not too rich or it will encourage leafy growth instead of lots of flowers.

If buying plants during Spring clear the ground of all weeds and keep them well watered. Add plenty of well-rotted organic matter when planting and stake tall plants.

Deadheading regularly throughout the growing season will encourage more flowers although you may want to leave some flowers to allow them self-seed around the garden and save you some work.

In autumn once the plants begin to die down pull them up and put on the compost heap.

Hardy Annuals in our Garden: Below is a selection of hardy annual we had in our garden this year; click the image to Buy your Own

Nigella damascena Moody Blues

Sweet Pea Mutacana

Annual Poppy Lady Bird

Fritillaria Imperialis

Question:

I have a fritillaria imperialis in a tub, soon after purchase and transfer the flowers died and the leaves are brown at the edges, can you suggest something please.

Answer

Fritillaria imperialis are bulbs and are prone to rotting off if they get too wet.

I would lift the plant, clean off any excess soil, place the bulb in dry sand or compost and keep in a cool, dry place. Allow the remaining leaves to die back and for the bulb to dry out.

In the autumn plant the bulb in a pot, with crocks in the bottom, using a sandy or gritty compost mix. Sit the bulb itself on a couple of inches of grit to ensure that the roots don’t sit in standing water and that the bulb stays dry throughout the winter. You will have to water the pot but make sure it doesn’t get too wet. In the spring the plant it should show new growth and eventually flower.

I hope it’s not too late to save this lovely plant but if it is you may be best buying fresh bulbs in the Autumn and following the advice above.

Why do my Peony buds keep falling before they flower?

Question:

We have two paeony plants which grow very well except each year they set buds and as the buds develop they all turn black and drop off ,this has happenened now for several years can you help with any ideas as to why this is happening

Answer:

The problem you describe is quite common as the peony has quite a number of specific requirements:

• They need plenty of sun to help the buds ripen
• They need to be fed regularly to ensure they have enough goodness to develop the buds fully
• They dislike to be moved; if they are moved they can take several years to flower successfully
• They don’t like to be planted too deeply. The little eye buds on the tops of the tubers need to be above the soil. Move away the soil from the base of the plant to see how deep yours has been planted. If these eye buds are buried then you will need to replant it. This will delay flowering for a couple of years but should then develop good healthy buds.

Plant your Spring Flowering Bulbs

Now is the time to plant your spring flowering bulbs.

Spring Flowering Bulbs come in lots of shapes, sizes and colours but the one thing they have in common is the ability to turn a dull late winter, early spring garden into an oasis of light and colour. No garden is complete without the good old daffodil or tulip but there are many other spring flowering bulbs which will add additional interest.

There are bulbous plants for lots of different situations but nearly all require good drainage and many thrive in sunny sites. Many bulbous plants are threatened in the wild so it is important to buy bulbs from cultivated sources such as Crocus.co.uk which has a great range of colourful, healthy Spring Flowering Bulbs.

When planting incorporate well-rotted organic matter and a balanced fertiliser. Bulbs generally need planting quite deep; the general rule is three times their own depth. However, if you get the depth wrong most bulbs will pull themselves down into the ground using special, contractile roots. If you’re planting bulbs in heavy soil, add grit to the bottom of the hole to ensure good drainage.

A few bulbs prefer shallow planting. Plant Madonna lilies (Lilium candidum) with the tip of the bulb just showing above ground. Lay Crown Imperials (Fritillaria imperialis) on their sides so that water can’t collect in their hollow centre and make them rot.

Deadhead regularly and apply a low nitrogen, high potassium fertiliser in subsequent years. Lift and divide if they become overcrowded.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium cristophii – Star of Persia
Huge globes of small star-shaped, pinkish-purple flowers appear in summer above narrow, grey-green leaves. In bloom these fabulous globes – up to 20cm (8in) in diameter – have a metallic sheen. The faded flowerheads hold up well in the border and are useful for dried flower arrangements. Perfect for a sunny site, dotted in small groups among ornamental grasses, or as part of a Mediterranean scheme. Alliums look best planted between medium-sized herbaceous plants, which help to mask the strap-like leaves, which fade by the time the flowers appear.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’ – Dutch Garlic
Dense, rich-purple globes held high on erect stems above strap-like, mid green leaves appear in early summer. They look spectacular grouped in a pot, or in a sunny border, dotted in groups among ornamental grasses, or as part of a Mediterranean scheme. Alliums look best planted between medium-sized herbaceous plants, which help to mask the strap-like leaves, which fade by the time the flowers appear.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium sphaerocephalon – round-headed leek
Small, egg-shaped, claret-coloured flowerheads appear like drumsticks on tall, slender stems above strap-like, mid-green leaves in mid to late summer. Planted en masse in a border in full sun, these diminutive claret flowers look great emerging from a screen of foliage, or against a backdrop of ornamental grasses. They gently fade as summer comes to a close.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Anemone blanda blue-flowered – winter windflower blue-flowered
This is a wonderful plant that produces cheerful, daisy-like flowers in shades of blue and purple in March and April. These are perfect plants for naturalising in a mixed border around the base of deciduous shrubs, or adding spring colour to the edge of a woodland garden. For maximum impact, plant in bold drifts in September or October, and if happy, they should spread quite quickly.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Crocus chrysanthus ‘Cream Beauty’
Rich-cream goblets with brown flushes and deep golden-yellow throats, emerge in February and March amid slender, strap-shaped, mid green leaves. These spring-flowering crocuses are perfect for naturalising in sunny, well-drained areas of the lawn. Relatively vigorous, they soon form large colonies, which can be divided in early autumn for use in other parts of the garden.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Fritillaria meleagris – snake’s head fritillary
Pretty, pendent, white and pinkish-purple bells with distinctive checkerboard markings on slender stems in April and May. These delightful snake’s head fritillaries are perfect for naturalising in a moist woodland edge or wildflower garden. It’s essential to select a site where the soil remains moist in summer.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Galanthus nivalis ‘Viridapice’ – snowdrop
A taller variety with a distinctive, long spathe which looks like the flowers have a hood. This is a good choice for those looking for a slightly more unusual snowdrop, or those wanting to add to their collection as it is still quite rare. Both the inner and outer petals are white, but have green markings which make them look as if they have been painted with a brush.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Woodstock’ – Hyacinth
A fabulous hyacinth with deep magenta-purple blooms that are delicately scented. Plant in mixed beds in the garden or in pots on the patio so you can move them around for best effect. A great colour for mixing with deep purples or plum shades to create a ‘bruised’ border.

Browse the full range of Spring Flowering Bulbs from Crocus.co.uk

Plant of the Month for September – Japanese Anemone

Our plant of the month for September is Japanese Anemone.

Japanese Anemone are beautiful plants, are very easy to grow and flower their heads off from August through to the frosts. During September they are at their best when there are few other plants around. The Gardening Register has two varieties in the garden Anemone ‘September Charm’ and Anemone ‘Honorine Jobert’. Honorine Jobert has been in for nearly ten years now and it never ceases to amaze me every year. September Charm was planted last autumn so this is it’s first true flowering season. The plants need to bulk up a bit before they’ll be as showy as Honorine. Take a look at the plants in our garden.

They are happy in full sun or partial shade and prefer moist, fertile soil. They are fully hardy and flower between July and September or even to the frosts if you’re lucky.

To care for your Japanese Anemones:

• Cut back the stalks after the flowers have faded
• Tidy up old dead leaves in March
• Apply a generous 5-7cm (2-3in) mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant in spring
• Avoid moving the plant since it resents disturbance
• Where necessary lift and divide congested clumps in early spring

BUY NOW

Click here to see the whole range of Japanese Anemone from Crocus.co.uk

How do you grow your own cut flowers?

Buying cut flowers on a regular basis can be quite costly, so why not try growing your own in the garden?

They can be grown in their own cutting bed or mixed into a border to add to the display; either way you could raise enough flowers to have a constant supply of fresh blooms for your home.

To get the best quality flowers it is best to grow them in a sunny spot on well drained, fertile soil. Most will need to be supported to avoid damage and it is also wise to provide shelter from strong winds.

What typs of flowers can I grow?

• Half hardy annuals

• • The are the easiest to grow as the seed are sown directly into the soil where you want them flower
  • Sow between March and May, staggering the sowings to get a succession of flowers over the summer
  • Once all the flowers have been cut and no more buds form, lift the entire plant and put on the compost heap
  • Repeat the process next spring
  • Some examples are:
    • tobacco plants (nicotiana)
    • zinnia
    • snapdragons
    • cosmos
• Biennials
  • Sow seed between May and July to flower the following year
  • Sow where they are to flower or in seed trays
  • As with the annuals, discard after flowering is over
  • Keep sowing each May to get more flowers each year
  • Some examples are:
    • erysimum (wallflowers)
    • sweet william
    • dianthus
• Perennial
  • These will flower year after year so are a good investment
  • Plant rooted cuttings in spring or pot-grown specimens at any time
  • Perennials will die down for winter and most will be OK outside, however dahlias will need a good layer of mulch over them to help them through
  • Some examples are:
    • dahlia
    • chrysanthemum
    • alchemilla mollis
• Bulbs
  • Plant spring flowering bulbs at the end of summer or early autumn
  • Once the flowers have been cut and no more buds appear leave the foliage on the plant to die down naturally, this provides the bulb with food for the following year
  • Some examples are:
    • daffodils
    • tulips
    • allium

Most plants will benefit from being picked regularly as it will encourage more buds to form and extend your cutting season.

Keep all plants well watered throughout the growing season a feed every couple of weeks.

Flowers in our Garden

Just in case you are interested I added a section to the main website showing which plants are doing well in The Gardening Register garden; why not take a look.

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