RHS Tatton Park Flower Show

Buy your tickets for the 2011 RHS Tatton Park Flower Show. This year’s show takes place between the 20th and the 24th July, ticket prices are:

Members

• In advance for Wednesday – £25.50
• In advance for Thursday to Sunday – £19.50
• On the day for Thursday to Sunday – £28

Highlights of this year’s show include:

• Fabulous collections of plants and flowers from leading nurseries
• Gardens inspired by the premier football teams of the region
• Over 30 children’s gardens and containers
• The exciting RHS National Young Garden Designer of the year returns again
• The College of the Year floristry competition
• Exclusive Ladies’ Day activities on Thursday
• Fine dining in a stunning setting with Fortnum & Mason

Visit the RHS website to find out more.

 

Blog of the Month – Plantpassion

Blog of the Month – Plantpassion by Claire Brown.

Claire’s bio says that she is a Professional Gardener, Plant Advisor and lover of plants which I think comes through in her blog.

I found this blog when I saw a RT on Twitter from @Plantpassion about Top tips for planning your best garden ever. Her No. 1 tip is to take photographs of your garden at different times of the year so that you know where there is space to be filled and where there are dormant plants which will come through during the summer.

Her No. 2 tip has also been published and is just as useful, so take a trip over to the blog or Twitter (@Plantpassion) to follow the rest of her tips.

Gardening tips aren’t the only topics on the blog, she also blogs about: 

• Best Buys
• Border Planting
• Chickens
• Container gardening
• Garden Bloggers Bloom Day
• Garden Diary
• Gardening with Children
• Harvest
• Plants and flowers
• Reduce, Reuse, Recycle
• The Kitchen Garden
• This weekend in the garden
• Weeds, Pest and Disease

A blog well worth book marking in my opinion. Let me know what you think by leaving a comment below.

Hyacinths finally flowering!

I started my Hyacinths off in November; in a cool, dark place until they started to show through. Speaking to a lady at my garden centre she suggested waiting until the flower started showing through not just the leaves so this is what I did.

I checked them on an off through November with no success and it was actually late December before anything started showing and early January before the flowers began to show at which time I bought them indoors.

Finally, earlier this week the flowers finally opened and I have to say they are the best I have ever managed to grow indoors. They look lovely and they smell amazing! A bit late for Christmas but well worth the wait.

In future years I will be planting the bulbs earlier and will wait until the flower begins to show before bringing them indoors.

Bents Garden Centre

Just spent a lovely morning at Bents Garden Centre near Warrington.

The weather here is better than it’s been for weeks so I sat outside by their lovely pond taking in the sun and watching the geese on the pond.

I also managed to bag a bargain; a lovely yellow Dahlia, Dahlia Kelvin Floodlight, for just £3! It is supposed to have enormous flowers up to 11ins across and the plant grows to 36ins high.

I’ll take a photo when it’s flowering.

I love Bents, it’s my favourite garden centre. If you’ve never been before their address is Warrington Road, Glazebury, Warrington, Cheshire, WA3 5NT.

Here’s a link to their website.

Saffron Crocus Bulbs have arrived

My Saffron Crocus bulbs arrived from Suttons just before my holiday so I have only just planted them. I chose to plant them in three medium sized bulb bowls so that I can keep them close to the house and keep my eye on them.

The instructions say they can be planted any time through to September but early August is the best time.

They should be ready to harvest from October but as mine were planted late it may be November before I can begin to collect the orange/red stigmas from the flowers.

Once harvested the plants should be left to die down naturally to allow the bulbs to regenerate for next year.

The stigmas will need to be dried out and will be able to be kept in an airtight jar for several years.

I’ll post an update once they are in flower.

Gardening Articles

Do you love your garden but not sure of the best way to prune your clematis, propagate plants for next year, make the best of your lawn or produce good quality compost?

If so then take a look at our gardening articles which we are sure will be useful to you. These articles are aimed at beginners and are written in the most simplistic way possible but if you require personal advice you can complete our Advice Form and we will email our response as quickly as possible.

• Aquatic Gardening, Ponds and Aquatic Plants
• Building Projects in the Garden
• Butterflies
• Composting in the Garden and the Kitchen
• Cut Flowers; Growing and Care
• Flowers and Plants
• Fruit and Vegetables
• Garden Birds and Wildlife
• Garden Maintenance Tasks
• Gardening for Children
• Green Gardening
• Greenhouse Gardening
• Lawn Care and Maintenance
• Outdoor Living
• Pests and Diseases
• Poisonous Plants
• Pruning
• Safety in the Garden
• Soil and Soil Improvement
• Types of Plants
• Weeds

Produce a colourful display in just a few weeks

Earlier in the year I decided to clear out a small bed which had become overgrown with conifers and ivy.

I dug out the roots and added some fertiliser and waited until the weather warmed up.

Over the last year or so I had accumulated a number of annual seed packets so in early June I took a small bucket, added some sharp sand and mixed all all the seeds.

Then, after watering, I scattered the seeds/sand mixture over the prepared area and covered it with garden netting to keep the birds away.

Within a couple of weeks the seedlings germinated and after another couple of weeks I was able to “prick out” the more densely sown areas.

Now in early July the bed is full of colour. Orange, yellow and pink Californian poppies and blue and white cornflowers and there are still lots of plants not yet in flower.

I would recommend this way of gardening to everyone; it’s easy, cheap and very rewarding.

I’ll post an update in a couple of weeks time when more flowers should be open.

My Onions are Bolting

Question:

Some of my onions, which were planted from sets, are starting to form seed heads. Is it better to leave them alone, cut off seed heads and leave or should I just lift and use these onions.

Answer:

The only thing you can do at this stage is to cut off the flower stalk about two inches above the bulbs. When the onion develops use the ones that bolted first as they won’t store as well as the others. To avoid this next year buy heat treated onion sets as they are resistant to bolting.

Rhubarb going to seed

Question:

My Rhubarb has come up and straight away gone to seed. What can I do to stop this happening as this is the second year this has occured. I have removed the seed heads.

Answer:

It is quite common for rhubarb to produce flowering stalks early in the season but it is nothing to worry about. Remove the whole stem, not just the seed heads and the plant’s energy will revert to producing a good crop.

Giant Snowflake – Leucojum Gravetye Giant

My latest purchase for the garden in the Giant Snowflake, Leucojum Gravetye Giant.

The flowers are like large snowdrops and are borne on long bright green stems of about 14ins (36cm); they are a great addition to your Spring display.

I bought mine from B&Q, and for £3.98 there were five stems, some in flower some not. Once flowering is over I will plant the bulbs in the ground whilst still in the green. Hopefully within a few years they will have increased into a good sized clump.

I have had a look around the internet but haven’t found anyone selling them in the green but I’ll have a look again when the spring flowering bulbs go on sale and up-date the post if I find a good supplier.

Our Plant of the Month – Hamamelis (Witch Hazel)

One of the most spectacular plants in January is Hamamelis or Witch Hazel with the added bonus of brightly coloured leaves during the Autumn. The delicious scent from the spidery flowers is lovely at this time of year; bring a few flowering branches indoors to enjoy them all day long. The flower colours vary from bright yellow, through orange to a deep orange red, they appear in clusters along the bare branches during the winter and remain until the leaves arrive in the Spring. The Witch Hazel is a woodland plant and very low maintenance.

Crocus.co.uk are currently offering four varieties of Hamamelis, one of which is their plant of the month, click here for more information.

How can I train my Jasmine?

Question:

I have a jasmine which has been planted by the front door and have been trying to train it over the door but to be honest I’ve no idea what I’m doing. It has been there 12 years and has many trunks if you know what I mean. I don’t know if I should be cutting some of them out or what growth to cut out. As you can guess I’m a novice gardener.

Answer:

The first thing we need to do is establish which plant you have.

There are two main types of Jasmine, one flowers in Winter/Spring the other flowers in the summer and they need to be treated differently.

The most well known jasmine is Jasminum officinale which has white or cream flowers in the summer and is highly scented. It is most likely that your plant is this one as it is often planted by doorways to appreciate the scent. It don’t mind a little shade but the sun will bring out the scent; it should also be in a sheltered position. It can grow to 12m which makes them ideal for training over an arch but it can take over if it isn’t kept in check. You have two options at this point; prune it back and hope it recovers or get rid of it and start again.

If you want to try to rejuvenate it then follow these steps but bear in mind that all hard pruning can be risky and in most likelihood it will not flower this year:

• This work should be done during February or March but not if frost is expected

• First cut out any dead or really old stems right down to the base

• Cut down any remaining main stems to about 18”

• Cut back any stems growing out from the main stem to about 6”

• If possible remove the top layer of soil from around the base and replace with new top soil or compost

• Water well and top off with a thick layer of well rotted compost (this is called mulch)

• Keep well watered during dry spells

• Fertilise with a general fertiliser in the spring

Once the plant is cut down you will be able to see the trellis or arch so check that it is still sound and if not replace or repair it. Once the plant begins to grow you must regularly tie in the new growth to fill in any gaps up the trellis and keep tying them in right up to the top of the arch (don’t tie in too tight, leave some room for growth). Once the stems get too long just cut them to the length you want. Cut out or shorten any shoots which begin to grow outwards from the main plant to ensure that it doesn’t get too wide. When making your cuts always cut just above a “node” with a slanting cut. A node is a “join” on the stem, once cut, this join produces a new stem or a flower bud. Cutting below the “node” means you are cutting off the chance for a new flower or stem. The thing is that you want to produce a plant that you like the look of so if something doesn’t look good to you then cut it out or cut it down and let it re-grow to the shape and size you want.

Plants that grow close to a house, wall, or fence never get enough water from rain alone so need to be watered regularly particularly during dry spells, when it is developing buds or after a hard prune. Always keep a good layer of mulch on the surface of the soil which will help keep moisture in the soil and help stop weeds developing. Fertilise with a general fertiliser once a month from spring through to autumn.

If your plant flowers in Winter/Spring with yellow flowers then it is a Winter Flowering Jasmine which means that it develops it’s buds during the summer/autumn and therefore should not be pruned during the autumn or winter otherwise all the flowers will be lost. All pruning needs to take place once the flowers have gone over which is usually around April or May. They are very good for training over an arch but they only reach 2.5m so will not cover a large area. They like the sun but do not mind some shade. Follow the same steps as above but carry out the work in late spring or summer.

There is another plant, Trachelospermum, which has scented jasmine-like flowers and is often known as star jasmine. It is evergreen so if your plant does not keep it’s leaves in the winter then this isn’t the one you have. It is an excellent climber for a sunny, sheltered spot but does not survive outside in all areas. If you think this is your plant then let me know and I’ll let you know how to deal with it.

Tritonia Rubrolucens and Hippeastrum (Amaryllis)

Question:

Could you please tell me how best to deal with the foliage of “Tritunia rudrolucens” and “Hipeastrum advenum”now that the flowers have finally died off, leaving climps of foliage 12 to 18 inches high.

Answer:

Do you mean Tritonia rubrolucens and Hippeastrum (Amaryllis)? If so here is how to deal with each of them. If these are not the plants you are enquiring about could you please double check the spellings and get back to me.

Hippeastrum or commonly known as Amaryllis are usually grown as an indoor plant for Christmas; with some care you can get these to re-flower year after year. Here’s how: stop watering and put the plants in their pots into a frost free place for the summer. They will usually die back within a couple of months but if you want to you can cut back the foliage. Keep them dormant until about October at which time you can bring them into a light position indoors and begin feeding and watering. With a bit of luck they will re-flower for Christmas next year.

Tritonia are similar to Crocosmia but are not very hardy so they should only be grown outdoors in mild area. If yours are outdoors and have started to die back cover the top of the plant with a good layer of mulch to allow them to die back and to keep them warm throughout the rest of the winter. If you grew them indoors then I suggest moving the pots into a frost free shed or greenhouse to let them dry out and for the foliage to die down. You can either leave them as they are until next autumn when you can redress the pots, water and bring indoors to flower. Alternatively, once the plants have dried out remove the compost from around the corms and leave the corms to dry out completely; next autumn re-plant the corms in fresh compost, water and bring indoors.

Types of Plants – Half Hardy Annuals

Like Hardy Annuals these plants live for just one season and will die after flowering and setting seed. However, they cannot stand the cold so should be planted out after all risk of frost has passed.

Care: Half Hardy Annuals cannot stand the cold so seeds are sown indoors in Spring and planted out once all the risk of frost has passed. Again it is important that the soil is not too rich or it will encourage leafy growth instead of lots of flowers.

If buying plants during late Spring clear the ground of all weeds and keep them well watered. Add plenty of well-rotted organic matter when planting and stake tall plants.

Deadheading regularly throughout the growing season will encourage more flowers although you may want to leave some flowers to allow them self-seed around the garden and save you some work.

In autumn once the plants begin to die down pull them up and put on the compost heap.

Half Hardy Annuals in our Garden: Below is a selection of half hardy annual we had in our garden this year; click the image to Buy your Own

Impatiens walleriana Envoy Peach Butterfly

Cosmos bipinnatus Psyche White

African Marigold Galore Mixed

Types of Plants – Hardy Annuals

Hardy Annuals are herbaceous plants that live for just one year; they will die after flowering and setting seed and should then be composted.

Care: Hardy Annuals can stand the cold so seeds are sown outdoors in Spring to flower during early Summer and it is important that the soil is not too rich or it will encourage leafy growth instead of lots of flowers.

If buying plants during Spring clear the ground of all weeds and keep them well watered. Add plenty of well-rotted organic matter when planting and stake tall plants.

Deadheading regularly throughout the growing season will encourage more flowers although you may want to leave some flowers to allow them self-seed around the garden and save you some work.

In autumn once the plants begin to die down pull them up and put on the compost heap.

Hardy Annuals in our Garden: Below is a selection of hardy annual we had in our garden this year; click the image to Buy your Own

Nigella damascena Moody Blues

Sweet Pea Mutacana

Annual Poppy Lady Bird

Types of Plants – Shrubs

Generally smaller than trees with either a very short main stem or multiple stems. They are long living plants grown for their flowers, foliage or fruits.They come on many shapes and sizes and can be grown in almost any part of the garden. Shrubs can be evergreen or deciduous.

Care:Before planting dig the soil thoroughly, remove all weeds and incorporate lots of well-rotted organic matter. Add fertiliser and improve the drainage if required. Make a hole two or three times the width of the plant and deep enough to keep at same level as in the pot. Keep well watered until established. Check the final dimensions of the shrub to ensure there is enough space for it to reach it’s final height and spread. Some shrubs can grow quite big so you will need to check that you have the room for it before planting.

Shrubs in our Garden: Below is a selection of shrubs we have in our garden; click the image to Buy your Own

*Photographs owned by Linda Peppin if you wish to use these photographs in your own work please drop her a line using the contact us link below.

How do I prune Senecio cineraria?

Question:

Is it possible to trim back “silver dust” plants (Senecio cineraria)?

They have grown very big and now over taking a large fern i have in the garden. I would like to tidy them by trimming them back but scared they might die.

Is this possible and what is the best way to do this?

Answer:

It is possible to prune Senecio cineraria but as it is a tender plant I would leave it until the risk of frost has passed in Spring. You may lose the flowers for the year but it will be fine the following year.

Cut out any old, diseased or misshapen stems and reduce the remainder to the size you want. Make sure you cut just above a node or pair of leaves to encourage it to bush out.

Flower Carpet Red Velvet and Cynara scolymus

My garden has reached the stage where there is no more room left to plant anything! So you’d think I’d stop going to the garden centre wouldn’t you? But no ….. this week I came across a lovely red rose (yes, red again!).

This is Flower Carpet Red Velvet a ground cover rose.

It is a lovely bright red with a yellow centre with glossy, rich green foliage and it really catches the eye; I liked it so much I’ve bought mum one too, she’ll love it.

As I don’t have any room in the ground I have put it in a pot in the hope that it will flow over the top and give a trailing affect. There are lots of buds on both plants so hopefully we’ll get flowers until the frost; I’ll let you know.

Here are the details:

• It is naturally disease resistant
• It has a long flowering season
• It grows to 50cm (20ins) high and you will need 2-3 plants per square metre (yard)
• Plant in a sunny spot in any soil type or plant it in a container in a good quality compost, water well and keep moist
• Add a quality rose food to the soil / compost
• In early spring cut back to 15cm (6ins) from the base and add more rose food
• Trim off any spent blooms as this will encourage more prolific flowering

Buy your Flower Carpet Red Velvet from Gardening Express

While I was at the garden centre I found a bargain in the Sale section.

It is a Cynara scolymus or Cardoon.

It is a very architectural plant growing up to 180cm (6ft) tall and producing these wonderful purple-mauve, thistle-like flowers in late summer; keep them on for the winter for an extra show of interest. The foliage is jagged and greyish green which will make a change for my garden.

I have managed to find a small spot at the back of my main border I just hope it gets enough sun.

If you would like to buy your own Cardoon take a look at Cynara cardunculus ‘Cardy’ from Crocus.co.uk. This variety is shorter but has the same jagged foliage and bee-friendly thistles and is just as architectural.

Fritillaria Imperialis

Question:

I have a fritillaria imperialis in a tub, soon after purchase and transfer the flowers died and the leaves are brown at the edges, can you suggest something please.

Answer

Fritillaria imperialis are bulbs and are prone to rotting off if they get too wet.

I would lift the plant, clean off any excess soil, place the bulb in dry sand or compost and keep in a cool, dry place. Allow the remaining leaves to die back and for the bulb to dry out.

In the autumn plant the bulb in a pot, with crocks in the bottom, using a sandy or gritty compost mix. Sit the bulb itself on a couple of inches of grit to ensure that the roots don’t sit in standing water and that the bulb stays dry throughout the winter. You will have to water the pot but make sure it doesn’t get too wet. In the spring the plant it should show new growth and eventually flower.

I hope it’s not too late to save this lovely plant but if it is you may be best buying fresh bulbs in the Autumn and following the advice above.

Plant your Spring Flowering Bulbs

Now is the time to plant your spring flowering bulbs.

Spring Flowering Bulbs come in lots of shapes, sizes and colours but the one thing they have in common is the ability to turn a dull late winter, early spring garden into an oasis of light and colour. No garden is complete without the good old daffodil or tulip but there are many other spring flowering bulbs which will add additional interest.

There are bulbous plants for lots of different situations but nearly all require good drainage and many thrive in sunny sites. Many bulbous plants are threatened in the wild so it is important to buy bulbs from cultivated sources such as Crocus.co.uk which has a great range of colourful, healthy Spring Flowering Bulbs.

When planting incorporate well-rotted organic matter and a balanced fertiliser. Bulbs generally need planting quite deep; the general rule is three times their own depth. However, if you get the depth wrong most bulbs will pull themselves down into the ground using special, contractile roots. If you’re planting bulbs in heavy soil, add grit to the bottom of the hole to ensure good drainage.

A few bulbs prefer shallow planting. Plant Madonna lilies (Lilium candidum) with the tip of the bulb just showing above ground. Lay Crown Imperials (Fritillaria imperialis) on their sides so that water can’t collect in their hollow centre and make them rot.

Deadhead regularly and apply a low nitrogen, high potassium fertiliser in subsequent years. Lift and divide if they become overcrowded.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium cristophii – Star of Persia
Huge globes of small star-shaped, pinkish-purple flowers appear in summer above narrow, grey-green leaves. In bloom these fabulous globes – up to 20cm (8in) in diameter – have a metallic sheen. The faded flowerheads hold up well in the border and are useful for dried flower arrangements. Perfect for a sunny site, dotted in small groups among ornamental grasses, or as part of a Mediterranean scheme. Alliums look best planted between medium-sized herbaceous plants, which help to mask the strap-like leaves, which fade by the time the flowers appear.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’ – Dutch Garlic
Dense, rich-purple globes held high on erect stems above strap-like, mid green leaves appear in early summer. They look spectacular grouped in a pot, or in a sunny border, dotted in groups among ornamental grasses, or as part of a Mediterranean scheme. Alliums look best planted between medium-sized herbaceous plants, which help to mask the strap-like leaves, which fade by the time the flowers appear.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium sphaerocephalon – round-headed leek
Small, egg-shaped, claret-coloured flowerheads appear like drumsticks on tall, slender stems above strap-like, mid-green leaves in mid to late summer. Planted en masse in a border in full sun, these diminutive claret flowers look great emerging from a screen of foliage, or against a backdrop of ornamental grasses. They gently fade as summer comes to a close.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Anemone blanda blue-flowered – winter windflower blue-flowered
This is a wonderful plant that produces cheerful, daisy-like flowers in shades of blue and purple in March and April. These are perfect plants for naturalising in a mixed border around the base of deciduous shrubs, or adding spring colour to the edge of a woodland garden. For maximum impact, plant in bold drifts in September or October, and if happy, they should spread quite quickly.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Crocus chrysanthus ‘Cream Beauty’
Rich-cream goblets with brown flushes and deep golden-yellow throats, emerge in February and March amid slender, strap-shaped, mid green leaves. These spring-flowering crocuses are perfect for naturalising in sunny, well-drained areas of the lawn. Relatively vigorous, they soon form large colonies, which can be divided in early autumn for use in other parts of the garden.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Fritillaria meleagris – snake’s head fritillary
Pretty, pendent, white and pinkish-purple bells with distinctive checkerboard markings on slender stems in April and May. These delightful snake’s head fritillaries are perfect for naturalising in a moist woodland edge or wildflower garden. It’s essential to select a site where the soil remains moist in summer.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Galanthus nivalis ‘Viridapice’ – snowdrop
A taller variety with a distinctive, long spathe which looks like the flowers have a hood. This is a good choice for those looking for a slightly more unusual snowdrop, or those wanting to add to their collection as it is still quite rare. Both the inner and outer petals are white, but have green markings which make them look as if they have been painted with a brush.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Woodstock’ – Hyacinth
A fabulous hyacinth with deep magenta-purple blooms that are delicately scented. Plant in mixed beds in the garden or in pots on the patio so you can move them around for best effect. A great colour for mixing with deep purples or plum shades to create a ‘bruised’ border.

Browse the full range of Spring Flowering Bulbs from Crocus.co.uk

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