Our Garden in January

Following on from my failed attempt at taking photographs of our garden each week I have decided to just take photographs when there is something interesting to show you.

Today, 23rd January 2012, I was surprised to notice the size of the Camellia Buds, this time last year they were a lot smaller but we had just had the worst winter in many years so not surprising really.

I went outside with my camera and also found the Snowdrops looking great as well as the Winter Flowering Jasmine and Witch Hazel; take a look below.

To buy your own Camellia, Snowdrops, Witch Hazel or Winter Flowering Jasmine visit Crocus.co.uk

 

Looking after your lawn in Winter

Try to rest the lawn as much as possible during winter. If practical keep off when wet or frosty, as the grass plants are not actively growing; they will not repair themselves if damaged until the spring.

Mowing

Only mow the lawn if necessary; this will depend upon weather conditions and temperatures at the time. Do not mow if heavy frosts are expected or if the ground is very wet.

Clear leaves and debris

Use a light rake or brush to keep the lawn free of leaves and debris. Specialist leaf sweepers and lawn vacuums are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns; although in winter it is better to keep off with heavier machines.

Aeration

Aerate consolidated areas of the lawn with a hand fork or with a spiking machine. These are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns. This will relieve compaction, improve drainage and allow more air into the root system leading to a healthier lawn.

Dealing with worms

Remember worms improve the nutrient content of a soil and are beneficial to the soil structure. Worm casts are best left to dry and then swept or brushed away with a stiff brush.

As leaves fall from the trees use a light rake or brush to keep the lawn free of leaves and debris.

Service mower

Service or replace your mower if necessary ready for the next growing season. As always make sure that the blades are in good condition and are sharp.

This advice is courtesy of Rolawn Direct

Looking after your lawn in Autumn

Autumn is an important season for taking care of your lawn. It is important to use the last months of the growing season to strengthen and prepare the lawn for the rigours of winter. The effort put into a lawn in autumn will improve the quality and health of the lawn right through into the following Spring and beyond.

Mowing

As the days grow shorter and the temperatures begin to fall the rate at which the grass grows will slow, meaning that the lawn will need mowing less frequently. It is also a good idea to raise the height of cut as winter approaches. As always maintain your mower in good condition and keep the blades sharp.

Apply an Autumn Lawn Food

This gives the lawn the essential nutrients it needs to strengthen itself for winter. As autumn progresses damp still conditions can lead to diseases such as fusarium patch. Applying Rolawn GroRight Autumn Lawn Food in early autumn will help combat these by strengthening the grass plants as well as giving your lawn an attractive green colour. You can buy Rolawn Lawn Food online now.

Overseeding

Depending upon the wear and tear which your lawn has received over the previous months you may want to overseed the lawn in early autumn. Rolawn recommends a mix of our Medallion lawn seed with our Lawn Topdressing brushed into the surface of the lawn. The seed will germinate ahead of winter and give a thicker, denser lawn the following season.

Topdressing

If your lawn has become uneven then topdressing will even out any low areas. A rate of 1 – 3 kg per square metre will be sufficient when brushed into the lawn surface especially in lower areas. It is a good idea to add our Medallion Lawn seed to a topdressing to help fill in any thin areas It is always best to carry out topdressing when the lawn is dry. Topdressing also helps break down thatch and aids drainage. You can buy our quality Medallion lawn seed online now.

Aeration

Aerate consolidated areas of the lawn with a hand fork or with a spiking machine. These are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns. This will relieve compaction, improve drainage and allow more air into the root system leading to a healthier lawn.

Dealing with worms

Remember worms improve the nutrient content of a soil and are beneficial to the soil structure. Worm casts are best left to dry and then swept or brushed away with a stiff brush. Clear the lawn of leaves and debris As leaves start to fall from the trees use a light rake or brush to keep the lawn free of leaves and debris. Specialist leaf sweepers and lawn vacuums are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns.

Scarification

Scarification reduces the build up of dead grass matter, roots and moss which can cause increased stress to the grass plants. Scarification can be done using a spring-tine rake by vigorously pulling the rake through the grass sward. Electric scarifiers are also available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores.

Broadleaf weed treatment

Broad leaved weeds should be treated using a suitable selective herbicide. Alternatively weed them out by hand or using a knife / mechanical weeder remembering to get the root of the weed out.

Dealing with moss

If moss is a problem on your lawn you will need to scarify it out. You may also consider applying moss-killer product before scarifying. This will help to kill and remove more of the moss, allow the moss to turn brown/black before scarifying. After this it may be appropriate to overseed using Medallion lawn seed if taking the moss out leaves the lawn thin in some areas.

This advice come courtesy of Rolawn Direct

Looking after your lawn in Spring

Spring is a very important season for looking after your lawn. After the rigours of winter it needs careful attention as soon as the days start to lengthen and the grass starts to grow. Giving the lawn the care it needs now will ensure the best possible results throughout the year.

Mowing
As the grass starts to grow you will need to start to mow your lawn. It is very important in early spring that you set the mowing height quite high taking no more that one quarter of the length of the plant off at a time otherwise the lawn will become stressed. A little and often approach is better in spring. As the grass grows faster as we move further into spring increase the mowing frequency and gradually reduce the height of cut to give the desired finish.

Apply a Spring Lawn Food
This gives the lawn the essential nutrients it needs over the spring period. Rolawn recommends applying a spring lawn food in early spring and then again six weeks later. The grass plants are growing rapidly at this time and like any living thing need the correct nutrients in the correct quantities in order to grow strong and healthy. Healthy plants mean a thicker denser sward and Rolawn Groright Spring Lawn Food will also give an attractive green colour to your lawn. Click here to buy quality spring lawn food online now.

Overseeding
Depending upon the wear and tear that the lawn has received over the previous months you may want to overseed the lawn in early Spring. Rolawn recommends a mix of our Medallion Lawn Seed with our Lawn Topdressing brushed into the surface of the lawn. The seed will germinate and fill in any sparse or thinner areas. Using Medallion Lawn Seed will add the highest rated cultivars to any lawn giving a thicker, denser sward.

Topdressing
If your lawn has become uneven then topdressing will even out any low areas. A rate of 1 – 3 kg per square metre will be sufficient when brushed into the lawn surface especially in lower areas. It is a good idea to add our Medallion Lawn seed to a topdressing to help fill in any thin areas. It is always best to carry out topdressing when the lawn is dry. Topdressing also helps break down thatch and aids drainage. Click here to buy topdressing online now.

Aeration
Aerate consolidated areas of the lawn with a hand fork or with a spiking machine. These are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns. This will relieve compaction, improve drainage and allow more air into the root system leading to a healthier lawn.

Scarification
Scarification reduces the build up of dead grass matter, roots and moss which can cause increased stress to the grass plants. Scarification can be done using a spring-tine rake by vigorously pulling the rake through the grass sward. Electric scarifiers are also available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores.

Broadleaf weed treatment.
Broad leaved weeds should be treated using a suitable selective herbicide. Alternatively weed them out by hand or using a knife / mechanical weeder remembering to get the root of the weed out.

Dealing with moss.
If moss is a problem on your lawn you will need to scarify it out. You may also consider applying moss-killer product before scarifying. This will help to kill and remove more of the moss, allow the moss to turn brown/black before scarifying. After this it may be appropriate to overseed using Medallion lawn seed if taking the moss out leaves the lawn thin in some areas.

Treatment of weed grasses
Undesirable weed grasses can appear in a lawn. They will be obvious as they will appear to be different to the rest of the grass sward. Grasses such as Poa Annua are endemic in the northern hemisphere; if you notice seed heads forming from pale ‘stalky’ plants then these are likely to be Poa Annua. If required these can be removed by cutting the plant out and removing the roots. Fill in the area with a mix of Rolawn Lawn Top Dressing and Medallion lawn seed as any bare patches are likely to encourage the growth of more Poa plants as it is very common in the UK and the seeds will invade any bare ground.

The key to preventing weed grasses is a good maintenance regime. A vigorous, dense and healthy growing lawn will out compete many of the weed grasses. This can be achieved with regular feeding with a quality lawn food, regular mowing with a sharp mower and overseeding any thinner patches if necessary. During spring if Poa Annua seed heads are forming it can also help to use a mower which collects the clippings and therefore removes some of the seed heads.

This advice comes courtesy of Rolawn Direct

Book Review: The Time-saving Garden

My Review of Reader’s Digest ‘The Time-saving Garden’.

The time-saving garden says that you can achieve and maintain a beautiful garden with minimal time and effort so I sat down with a cup of coffee, or three, and read it cover to cover.

The hard-back book has a lovely look and feel with lots of colourful photographs and the sections are set out in such a way to make it easy to read.

I will work through the book section by section.

Ten golden rules for the time-saving garden

I think it is worth while detailing this whole section as these points are relevant to all gardeners and are definitely tips for saving time and effort:

1. Whether you’re starting a garden from scratch or just redesigning a small section it is important to plan it out in advance to ensure you are able to devote enough time to maintaining it
2. Get to know your garden and choose plants which will thrive without constant care and attention
3. Always buy plants from a reputable source which will save you time and money in the long run
4. When planting leave enough space around them to allow them to spread to their full size, fill any temporary gaps with annuals
5. Always cover the soil with a good thick layer of mulch which will suppress weeds and keep moisture in the soil to save you time water and weeding
6. When watering it is better to water less often but more thoroughly
7. Don’t over feed your plants as it can result in excessive growth leading to more maintenance
8. Encourage birds and insects to help to control pests and diseases
9. Always use the right tool for the right job; you will use less energy and save time
10. Plant and prune at the right time of year to avoid unnecessary work and potential loses

Inspirations for easy-care gardens

This section takes eight garden types and gives you ideas to make them easy to look after. They are wildlife, small terraced, sloping, shady,  modern, cottage, Mediterranean and a practical family garden.

The bits I particularly like are:

• Plant variegated plants to light up dark corners
• If you have a boggy area, plant bog plants
• Pile up dead wood in a corner to provide a home for wildlife
• Position a gravelled area at the base of a slope to help water drain away
• Build your patio areas level with the lawn to make mowing easier and avoid having to cut the edges
• In an informal or cottage garden plant brightly coloured vegetables such as chard and lettuce between the flowering plants
• If you don’t use your garden / patio all year round buy folding furniture so they are easily stored for the winter
• Most perennial herbs look after themselves so are great for a low maintenance garden
• Add a water feature, always a good idea!
• Plant in the gaps in pathways to add extra interest

Careful planning makes life easier

In this section of the book you can learn how to produce a time-saving garden which suits you, your family and your lifestyle.

Firstly it takes you through how to think about what you want from the garden, and what the garden needs, before you begin any work. If you have an established garden it will help you identify what it is you like and dislike about your garden and help you change or make the most of it.

The next stage is the infrastructure and maintenance which covers the boundaries and pathways, how to install water, electricity and light supply and storage solutions; basically the backbone of the garden.

The most important element of a garden is the soil and this next section does a good job of teaching you about soil including how to identify your own soil type and how to improve it to give plants what they need to do well. It also includes a good section on making your own compost and mulching all important in any garden.

What I like in this section are the 30-minute tasks making it easier to manage the workload.

Planting solutions for all situations

The best part of gardening is, of course, the plants. This next section takes the different types of plants and planting situations and helps you plant the correct plant in the correct place.

There are suggestions for creating an attractive entrance and front garden, planting against walls and up arches and pergolas, using trees, camouflaging unsightly items, planting up a patio and many other planting solutions. There are also more 30-minute tasks to help you.

There are some really good ideas which can be incorporated into any garden, no matter its size.

There is a massive section covering types of plants including:

• Trees and shrubs – making a new planting area, pruning guide, dealing with autumn leaves, growing roses and topiary
• Herbaceous borders – how to make colourful displays, deadheading, plants for the shade, grasses, bulbs and tubers and rockeries
• Carpets of green – all about lawns and wild-flower meadows
• Plants for pots and tubs – low-maintenance planters, rejuvenating pot-bound plants, hanging baskets, fruit and veg in pots and winter protection
• The water garden – water features for the patio, ponds and streams
• The kitchen garden – grow your own, low-maintenance plot, herbs and fruit trees

Redesign now to save time later

Although it may seem like a lot of work it may well be worth your while redesigning your garden now to save time and effort later.

This section of the book suggests redesigns which may be suitable for your garden:

• A stylish gravel garden – taking away the lawn and replacing it with gravel and low growing plants will save lots of time.
• An impressive entrance – maintaining a front garden can be hard work and not the most pleasant of tasks if you live on a main road. Replacing the lawn with paving and easy to manage shrubs will help.
• A back garden that slopes steeply – build terracing and retaining walls to hold in the soil and make manageable sections.
• Changing needs of different generations – once your children have grown up and the football pitch and swings are no longer needed transform your garden to a relaxing area for you.
• Rejuvenating a wilderness – conifers can grow very big, very quickly and they take much needed moisture and nutrients from the whole garden. If this is your garden it may be time to fell the trees and rejuvenate the whole garden. The stumps and branches need not go to waste; use them for edging flower beds and once they begin to rot they will provide homes for wildlife.
• Easy-care decking and water – I like this theme, the lawn is removed and replaced with decking and a really big pond and boggy area . Maybe a bit modern for some but the decking could be paving or gravel or bark to suit your own situation.

The very best easy-care plants

Here they suggest the best 10 plants in each plant category along with light requirements, plant size and watering requirements. Good suggestions for easy-care trees, shrubs, flowering shrubs, evergreen shrubs, hedging plants, dwarf shrubs and trees, roses, ground-cover plants, climbers, perennials, bulbs, corms and tubers, grasses, ferns, rockery/alpine plants, aquatic and bog plants, summer annuals, container plants, fruit trees and shrubs, herbs and vegetables

Summary

Book measures 254mm x 254mm; 320 pages; over 600 colour photographs and illustrations.

I liked this book when I first picked it up but as I worked my way through it I found it got better section by section. I would genuinely say that this book is one of the best of this format I have come across for the following reasons:

• enough information to get the job done
• not too technical
• lots of inspirational ideas
• step-by-step instructions
• you could plant a great garden using the easy-care plants section alone
• very sensible advice
• covers the basics then goes further if it’s needed
• ideas for problem sites

I will have this book to hand for daily reference and am considering some of the water feature ideas for a project this summer.

The book is available from Readers Digest for £26.99* click here to order your copy.

*price correct at time of publication

National Gardens Scheme The Yellow Book

Monies raised from garden openings has enabled the National Gardens Scheme to donate over £2 million to its beneficiaries each year. More than £20 million has been donated to charity since the National Gardens Scheme began in 1927.

The Yellow Book lists county by county the gardens that open for the National Gardens Scheme. Each county has a diary section listing all the days when fine, mostly private, gardens open their gates to the public to raise money for charity. Short descriptions about the gardens include direction, opening dates and times.

The Yellow Book is a major source of income for the National Garden Scheme and is available from all good bookstores throughout the UK (prices vary). Website visitors may purchase the book directly from the National Gardens Scheme Website or from the National Gardens Scheme Head Office on 44 (0) 1483 211535.

The book contains lively up-to-date articles from gardening professionals, celebrities and writers such as Alan Titchmarsh, Matt James, Mary Berry and many more. There is also a listing of over 100 gardens offering bed & breakfast, self-catering or hotel accommodation, making the Yellow Book an enjoyable travelling companion.

Approximately 530 new gardens are opening for the Scheme this year with themes as diverse as Japanese, Mediterranean and Victorian restoration. Discover water features and walled gardens, sensory gardens, school gardens and sculptures, town gardens and topiary and even a prison garden. Allotments too have a strong presence this year along with many fruit and vegetable gardens including examples of heritage vegetables and rare animal breeding.

Enthusiasts will be impressed by the number of gardens which house National Plant Collections, ensuring the preservation of many plants. For those attempting their first garden, there is no better place to find friendly advice, new ideas and usually inexpensive plants. From the traditional to the downright quirky, you’ll find it at a ‘Yellow Book’ garden! Something for everyone. Families looking for a pleasant afternoon outing will find many gardens that offer woodland or waterside walks. A number of gardens are designed with children or grandchildren in mind. Some garden owners encourage visitors to bring picnics. Everybody, whether green-fingered or not, enjoys the fine teas that are often provided. And an ever increasing number of gardens offer evening openings – a pleasant way to wind down after work.

At the time of writing the National Gardens Scheme website was not available, if this is the case when you try, please try again another time.

If you discover that any of the links in this section do not work, please let us know by using our Contact Form.

The Gardening Register is not responsible for the content or behaviour of other web sites you may access via links from this web site and the inclusion of an external link does not infer endorsement by us.

Water for the Birds Freezing

I’m having trouble keeping the water for the birds from freezing. Each morning I pour boiling water over the ice to melt it but by lunchtime it’s frozen again. Anyone got any tips?

Why Brits should consider taking their work outdoors

From humble shrubberies to outdoor offices, how the modern garden is inspiring one in three of us to work, rest and play outdoors

There’s nothing better than a summer’s afternoon spent pottering around in the garden, but now it seems our gardens have an even more important role to play in our lives than first thought.

New research released today shows over a quarter of us use our gardens as a retreat from the world, more so than any other area of our homes, while over a third say their outdoor oasis is where they find the opportunity to refresh and revive their spirits. Just under half de-stress best by enjoying the tranquillity  in  their garden as opposed to unwinding with a drink or chatting to friends and family.

It seems that as well as improving our mental well-being many of us are now treating our garden as a hot bed of creative and business inspiration with 29% saying they use their garden to get their creative juices flowing and to inspire new ideas.

Far from being a space for a bit of cricket and a cider on a summer’s day, portable technology is allowing a growing number of us to turn our gardens into an office extension, meaning the term ‘out of office’ no longer means being out of touch. Indeed, 15% of those surveyed claim that they now prefer to use their laptop outdoors instead of in their more traditional home offices.

Landscape gardener Kathryn Hibberd, fresh from collecting her Silver Gilt Medal award from this year’s Hampton Court flower show for designing Sadolin’s innovative Refresh and Revive Garden, says: “I am absolutely delighted with winning the Silver Gilt medal. People seem to really love the garden, and it is lovely to see people smiling and enjoying it. At Hampton Court, where many of the visitors are real gardeners, it is important to create a beautiful garden which people can envision in their own space, and I believe that is what we have created.”

And it seems we’re still a nation intent on keeping up with Jones’s, with just under a third claiming they are envious of their neighbours gardens, with nearly one in 10 making changes to their garden as a direct result.

For more information visit www.sadolin.co.uk

How to turn your garden into a home office

Listen to the following podcast for top tips from life coach Honey Langcaster James and landscape gardener Kathryn Hibberd on creating an outdoor office space

There’s nothing better than a summer’s afternoon spent pottering around in the garden, and wouldn’t it be great if, on those lovely hot days you didn’t have to head back inside to finish off your work?

For those of us who do work from home, the temptation to delay our work commitments to grab a few extra minutes or hours outdoors can often be too hard to resist. While this may leave us refreshed from some outside time, it can also result in us feeling guilty that we have put off important tasks

So what if you could do both? Enjoy the ambience of a lovely summer’s day in the garden, while getting your work done as well.

Well, life coach Honey Langcaster James and gardener Kathryn Hibberd believe it can be done and has teamed up with Sadolin to offer their top tips for taking your home office outside this summer.

Click here to listen

For more information visit www.sadolin.co.uk

How to make the most of your garden space

Listen to the following podcast for top tips from Landscape Gardener Kathryn Hibberd on how dividing your garden can give you space and character

We’ve all looked at our gardens in despair at one point in time, wondering how we can make our outside space look bigger. It can be hard not to look at the neighbour’s garden with envy wishing your green space could be as calm and well-maintained.

Well if you would like some new ideas on not only creating the perfect garden, but also organising it into a space that is easy to maintain and a breeze to care for then you might want to think about the new trend for creating separate spaces within the one garden.

Landscape Gardner Kathryn Hibberd has teamed up with Sadolin to share her top tips on achieving a multi use garden with minimal fuss.

Click here to listen

For more information visit www.sadolin.co.uk

Compost Your Kitchen Waste

Composting your kitchen waste has never been easier; these days there are composters designed to handle each specific task.

You can use your kitchen waste to produce compost either indoors or outdoors. Indoor composting us carried out with Bokashi and outdoor composting can take place either with worms or in the traditional way using wooden or plastic composters.

To find out more about conventional composting have a look at our Composting Garden Waste article.

Bokashi

Bokashi is a Japanese term that means “fermented organic matter”. It is a bran-based material that has been fermented with Effective Micro-organisms liquid concentrate and then dried.

To start you simply sprinkle the Bokashi into your container and begin adding your kitchen waste. For every 30mm or so of scraps add a handful of the bran until the bin is full. Be sure to replace the lid each time you add to it to keep in smells and to help the fermenting process. Once the bin is full seal and put it away for a 10-14 days. Whilst it is sealed the Bokashi ferments the organic matter into a form that breaks down really quickly.

Once complete the “pickled” waste can be added to a conventional compost heap or used in the garden to improve the soil. If used directly on the garden, bury it beneath a layer of soil and leave for about two weeks before planting in that area.

Liquid is also produced from the buckets which should be drained off and used as a probiotic plant feed.

Because the unit is sealed it does not produce any odour and does not attract vermin. It is best to have two bins; one you are filling and one which is fermenting.

Items that can be “pickled” include fresh fruit and vegetables, prepared foods and leftover ready meals, cooked and uncooked meat and fish, cheese, eggs and coffee grounds.

Wormeries

Wormeries are used outdoors to compost your kitchen waste. They are neat and unobtrusive and all you have to do it add the worms and let them do all the hard work. Throughout the composting process the wormery will also produce a steady supply of liquid plant feed.

Unlike conventional composters Wormeries allow you to compost cooked vegetable leftovers, dog hair, apple peel, cardboard etc as well as the usual raw kitchen scraps.

The best composting worms are reds and dendras and you should use a combination of the two. The more worms you have the faster the compost will convert, on average you should aim to have a kilogram of worms to each cubic metre of waste. The worms can eat half their body weight in waste each day and they neutralise odours as they work. Every couple of weeks or so they can produce a dozen baby worms so you should not have to buy any once your system has stabilised.

Composting has never been easier but if you want to find out more here is a selection of books from Amazon which will tell you everything you need to know:

Butterflies in your Garden

A well designed and maintained garden is a joy but what make a garden complete is to have it full of bird song and the fluttering of butterflies.

There are 58 butterfly species in Britain and by carefully planning your garden you may be lucky enough to see a good number of these in your own garden. There are some essentials to ensure that butterflies will stop to take nectar from your garden, just follow the guidelines below.

Sunshine

You must position your butterfly plants in a warm, sheltered, sunny spot in your garden. Spend some time observing which parts of your garden get the most sunshine for most of the day. Butterflies will rarely feed in a shady area but part shade may suffice

Shelter

As mention above a sheltered spot is preferable as butterflies do not like to be buffeted by the wind.

Overnight Roosts

Grow some climbers and tall shrubs to enable the butterflies to roost overnight well off the ground. Hanging baskets also work well.

Food for Caterpillars

Most butterflies will only lay their eggs on specific plants in order to provide the right food for their caterpillars. Leave a patch of your garden “wild” with some long grass and nettles. Nettles are very popular with Small Tortoiseshell, Peacock, Red Admiral and Comma butterflies. If you don’t have room in your garden to leave an area “wild” try planting some nettles in a large pot and hide it away in the shrubs

The Right Plant for your Garden

Although there are quite a number of plants which butterflies love, do remember that the plant must also be suitable for your soil type and the aspect of your garden. See our Soil & Compost page for more information on soil types.

Visit our Plants for Butterflies page for a full list of the plants loved by our British Butterflies and the Butterfly Year to see which butterflies will visit your garden each month of the season.

Gardening in Raised Beds

As gardeners we love to be outside in the garden either planting, digging, pruning or doing one of the many other jobs that always need doing.

However, I also think that what we would all agree is that it can be back-breaking!

One of the best ways to reduce wear and tear on your back is to plant in containers or to install a series of Raised Beds. Indeed if you like to grow vegetables or have an allotment then growing in Raised Beds is often the best way to succeed.

The advantages of Raised Beds:

• able to grow in otherwise unsuitable soil or locations
• improved drainage and soil structure
• extra height of soil increases rooting depth
• cloches, tunnels or frames can easily be erected over the beds
• no need to walk on the soil
• you can work at a comfortable height
• especially handy for wheelchair users and those with back problems
• soil compaction is greatly reduced if not eliminated
• close planting creates a micro-climate which leads to healthy plants and bigger crops.

Take a look at this short video from Harrod Horticultural which shows you the advantages of gardening in raised beds:

If you are good at DIY then you should be able to build your own Raised Beds as they did on Gardeners World (click here to see how to build your own).

However, these days there are quite a number of easy to assemble, low maintenance plastic Link-a-Bord kits available on the market which make starting your Raised Bed Garden so much more quick and easy. Harrod Horticulture has a number of different Raised Bed Kits available as well as a wide range of accessories such as Hoops, Covers, Liners and Irrigation Kits so take a look now to find your ideal solution:

Standard Timber Raised Beds	Superior Timber Raised Beds	Allotments Timber Raised Beds	Corner Timber Raised Beds	Manger Raised Planter	Timer Raised Bed Tables

To complete your new garden you will need top soil:

Rolawn Vegetable & Fruit Topsoil is a fertile, organic rich, friable topsoil derived from prime arable land and a consistent organic matter, which ensures consistent results.  A bulk bag is exceptional value containing up to 50% more product than 1 tonne of ordinary topsoil  covering up to 20m² at a depth of 50mm. Also, there is currently a  multi-buy discount on orders of 2 bags or more. Order Now!

So whether you’re completely new to raised bed gardening, or you’re experienced in this simple, easy and highly effective way of growing, there’ll be something for you here…

Butterflies and Nettles

Question:

I want to encourage butterflies in my garden and have a patch of nettles. At which time of the year is it best to trim the nettles as they do spread about a bit and I don’t want to ruin the butterflies by chopping the nettles down at the wrong time of year for them?

Answer:

The best time to cut back the nettles is March and again in October. Visitors to nettles are the Red Admiral, Small Tortoiseshell, Peacock and Comma butterflies. The eggs and larvae of these butterflies are present on nettles between April and June, with adults emerging between May and October. Adults either hibernate in sheds, attics or shrubs and hedgerows through the winter.

I don’t know if you are aware that nettle leaves can be used to make liquid manure which is great for your garden. The best time to start is in the Spring so that you can use the feed throughout the summer period.

You will need four things:
• nettles
• watertight container such as a large bucket
• water
• a weight

Here’s what to do:
• Cut down the nettles bruise them slightly then chop or tear them into pieces
• Fill your container with water and immerse the nettles
• Place the weight on top of the stems to keep the nettles under the water
• Leave to brew for three to four weeks
• The brew will get quite smelly so you may want to place it away from the house
• Before using, the brew should be diluted around one part liquid to ten parts water
• Just water it around the base of your plants throughout summer
• Continue to top up your container with more nettles and water throughout the year
• In autumn put the remainder of the feed and the sludge in your compost heap and start again next spring

Plant your Spring Flowering Bulbs

Now is the time to plant your spring flowering bulbs.

Spring Flowering Bulbs come in lots of shapes, sizes and colours but the one thing they have in common is the ability to turn a dull late winter, early spring garden into an oasis of light and colour. No garden is complete without the good old daffodil or tulip but there are many other spring flowering bulbs which will add additional interest.

There are bulbous plants for lots of different situations but nearly all require good drainage and many thrive in sunny sites. Many bulbous plants are threatened in the wild so it is important to buy bulbs from cultivated sources such as Crocus.co.uk which has a great range of colourful, healthy Spring Flowering Bulbs.

When planting incorporate well-rotted organic matter and a balanced fertiliser. Bulbs generally need planting quite deep; the general rule is three times their own depth. However, if you get the depth wrong most bulbs will pull themselves down into the ground using special, contractile roots. If you’re planting bulbs in heavy soil, add grit to the bottom of the hole to ensure good drainage.

A few bulbs prefer shallow planting. Plant Madonna lilies (Lilium candidum) with the tip of the bulb just showing above ground. Lay Crown Imperials (Fritillaria imperialis) on their sides so that water can’t collect in their hollow centre and make them rot.

Deadhead regularly and apply a low nitrogen, high potassium fertiliser in subsequent years. Lift and divide if they become overcrowded.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium cristophii – Star of Persia
Huge globes of small star-shaped, pinkish-purple flowers appear in summer above narrow, grey-green leaves. In bloom these fabulous globes – up to 20cm (8in) in diameter – have a metallic sheen. The faded flowerheads hold up well in the border and are useful for dried flower arrangements. Perfect for a sunny site, dotted in small groups among ornamental grasses, or as part of a Mediterranean scheme. Alliums look best planted between medium-sized herbaceous plants, which help to mask the strap-like leaves, which fade by the time the flowers appear.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’ – Dutch Garlic
Dense, rich-purple globes held high on erect stems above strap-like, mid green leaves appear in early summer. They look spectacular grouped in a pot, or in a sunny border, dotted in groups among ornamental grasses, or as part of a Mediterranean scheme. Alliums look best planted between medium-sized herbaceous plants, which help to mask the strap-like leaves, which fade by the time the flowers appear.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium sphaerocephalon – round-headed leek
Small, egg-shaped, claret-coloured flowerheads appear like drumsticks on tall, slender stems above strap-like, mid-green leaves in mid to late summer. Planted en masse in a border in full sun, these diminutive claret flowers look great emerging from a screen of foliage, or against a backdrop of ornamental grasses. They gently fade as summer comes to a close.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Anemone blanda blue-flowered – winter windflower blue-flowered
This is a wonderful plant that produces cheerful, daisy-like flowers in shades of blue and purple in March and April. These are perfect plants for naturalising in a mixed border around the base of deciduous shrubs, or adding spring colour to the edge of a woodland garden. For maximum impact, plant in bold drifts in September or October, and if happy, they should spread quite quickly.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Crocus chrysanthus ‘Cream Beauty’
Rich-cream goblets with brown flushes and deep golden-yellow throats, emerge in February and March amid slender, strap-shaped, mid green leaves. These spring-flowering crocuses are perfect for naturalising in sunny, well-drained areas of the lawn. Relatively vigorous, they soon form large colonies, which can be divided in early autumn for use in other parts of the garden.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Fritillaria meleagris – snake’s head fritillary
Pretty, pendent, white and pinkish-purple bells with distinctive checkerboard markings on slender stems in April and May. These delightful snake’s head fritillaries are perfect for naturalising in a moist woodland edge or wildflower garden. It’s essential to select a site where the soil remains moist in summer.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Galanthus nivalis ‘Viridapice’ – snowdrop
A taller variety with a distinctive, long spathe which looks like the flowers have a hood. This is a good choice for those looking for a slightly more unusual snowdrop, or those wanting to add to their collection as it is still quite rare. Both the inner and outer petals are white, but have green markings which make them look as if they have been painted with a brush.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Woodstock’ – Hyacinth
A fabulous hyacinth with deep magenta-purple blooms that are delicately scented. Plant in mixed beds in the garden or in pots on the patio so you can move them around for best effect. A great colour for mixing with deep purples or plum shades to create a ‘bruised’ border.

Browse the full range of Spring Flowering Bulbs from Crocus.co.uk

Plant of the Month for September – Japanese Anemone

Our plant of the month for September is Japanese Anemone.

Japanese Anemone are beautiful plants, are very easy to grow and flower their heads off from August through to the frosts. During September they are at their best when there are few other plants around. The Gardening Register has two varieties in the garden Anemone ‘September Charm’ and Anemone ‘Honorine Jobert’. Honorine Jobert has been in for nearly ten years now and it never ceases to amaze me every year. September Charm was planted last autumn so this is it’s first true flowering season. The plants need to bulk up a bit before they’ll be as showy as Honorine. Take a look at the plants in our garden.

They are happy in full sun or partial shade and prefer moist, fertile soil. They are fully hardy and flower between July and September or even to the frosts if you’re lucky.

To care for your Japanese Anemones:

• Cut back the stalks after the flowers have faded
• Tidy up old dead leaves in March
• Apply a generous 5-7cm (2-3in) mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant in spring
• Avoid moving the plant since it resents disturbance
• Where necessary lift and divide congested clumps in early spring

BUY NOW

Click here to see the whole range of Japanese Anemone from Crocus.co.uk

Which growing medium should I use?

Question:
I have read in a well known gardening book that plants do not like being transplanted into a different medium. Does that include transplanting from peat based raising plant medium to garden soil?

Answer:
I must admit I don’t worry too much about the different types of growing medium. I use a good quality everyday compost and if I need it to be free draining, or for sowing seeds and planting cuttings, I add grit or vermiculite, if I need it rich I add manure, if I need it more fertile I’ll add pelleted chicken manure. When planting into the garden I add compost to the planting hole but back fill with the garden soil I’ve removed from the hole so it is not such a shock for the plant. There are only two situations in which I use the “correct” medium and that is to use ericaceous compost/soil for acid lovers and aquatic soil for planting in ponds. So far this method has not caused me any problems.

What’s looking good in August

I went out into the garden this morning not expecting to see much to photograph and was surprised at the number of plants looking really good.

Often August is a quiet time in the garden but with plants such as Japanese anemone, Rudbeckia, Buddleja and Hibiscus you can guarantee a good display of colour. Take a look below:

Rose mallow Hibiscus syriacus ‘Oiseau Bleu’	Anemone ‘September Charm’ Japanese anemone
Rudbeckia laciniata ‘Herbstsonne’ coneflower	Lysimachia clethroides – Loostrife
Rose campion (Lychnis coronaria)	Hypericum ‘magical red star’
Buddleja  ‘Pink Delight’ butterfly bush	Anemone ‘Honorine Jobert’ Japanese anemone

All photographs were taken and are owned by Linda Peppin if you wish to use these photographs in your own work please drop her a line using the contact us link below.

Make your own Leafmould

Autumn can be a lovely time of year but the work involved in clearing up all the dropped leaves can be a chore each year. However, there is a benefit to be had – they make a fabulous free source of organic matter.

Leafmould is ideal for use as a soil improver, mulch or potting compost. Here’s what to do:

• Fill black polythene bags with wet leaves
• Tie a knot in the top of the bags
• Puncture a few holes in the sides of each bag
• Place the bags behind the garden shed for a year

Next autumn the rich organic material can be used to improve the soil and mulch the surface after planting.

Make your own Compost

Composting can be as simple or as complex as you want to make it and the best part is that it can consist of any organic material that we all have access to every single day from the lawn, the garden, and the kitchen.

You can even re-cycle the leaves which fall during Autumn to make wonderful leafmould which is an ideal soil improver.

Compost is what happens when leaves, grass clippings, vegetable and fruit scraps, woodchips, straw, and small twigs are combined, then allowed to break down into a soil-like texture. Compost introduces and feeds diverse life in the soil, including bacteria, insects, worms, and more which support vigorous plant growth.

Compost is multi-faceted but not intended as a fertilizer. It offers only a relatively low proportion of nutrients, yet what it does is close to magical. In its finished form as mulch, it reduces evaporation, reduces or prevents weed growth, and insulates the soil from extreme temperature changes. Mulch also keeps the upper inches of the soil cooler in daytime and warmer at night.

Regardless of the particular ingredients, making compost is akin to making bread or beer; soil-digesting bacteria like yeasts need warmth, moisture, air and something to feed on to keep them alive and growing. Almost all of the practical problems associated with making compost stem from too much or too little of those basic factors.

Compost is created from layers of grass clippings, leaves, weeds, kitchen scraps and, if available, farm animal manure. If you have meat eaters in your home, don’t use their meat scraps as they will attract rodents. Also, do not use litter from your dog or cat; it doesn’t break down properly and contains too many pathogens.

Over the years, composting has gotten a reputation for being a time-consuming job, but this is not necessarily the case. You don’t need to build a big box or turn the pile every so often. A barrel, a hole in the ground or a pile on top of the ground is satisfactory.

The important requirement is to be sure the waste material is covered with soil, so it doesn’t attract rats, other rodents or flies. You can build your layers directly on the ground, without any frame at all; if you use a container, be sure it is well ventilated.

The trick to successful compost is balancing ingredients high in nitrogen; fresh grass clippings, other fresh, green plant matter, most kitchen scraps – with those high in carbon; leaves, straw, dried grass, washed eggshells, wheat germ or other milled grains that have become too rancid or old to use, and any dried, brown plant matter. Too much nitrogenous matter yields an anaerobic, smelly pile. Too much carbonaceous matter results in a pile that never heats up. The ideal ratio is one part nitrogen to three parts carbon.

Start with a layer of small twigs, no large branches, a couple of inches deep; this will help your pile to breathe. Then, keeping in mind the 1 to 3 ratio of nitrogen to carbon, add a layer of mixed plant material. You may enrich the pile with horse or cow manure. These materials don’t break down; they simply add nutrients to the final product. Then lightly water the pile so it’s evenly moist. Too much water will interfere with aeration; too little water and the pile won’t ferment. If your pile sits in the open, you should cover it if heavy rains are forecast. An 8-inch layer of straw mulch spread over the top of the pile serves the same purpose.

Alternate layers until the pile is 5 feet high by 5 feet wide by whatever length you choose. A properly made pile that is loosely packed and well aerated will reach an internal temperature of 160 degrees within a few days. It should smell like wet hay. If the pile fails to heat up, pull it apart and redo it by adding layers of fresh green matter. If the pile becomes anaerobic (is too wet to aerate), pull it apart, let it dry out, use it as mulch and start a new pile.

After three weeks, the pile will have shrunk in size; this is normal. Dig into the pile with a fork and completely turn it over until the contents are redistributed; the idea is to put unfermented particles in contact with those that are further along. Let the pile rest, so the temperature will rise again. Turn it a second time five weeks later, let it rest a few weeks and, with luck, you’ll have a rich, crumbly pile of “black gold.”

Aquatic Gardening

There are several points you need to consider before building your pond or water feature. Should it be formal or informal, natural or modern? Do you want to keep fish, grow plants or attract wildlife? Are there children to keep safe?

Once you have answered these questions you need to decide where you want to site the pond or water feature. A pond should be kept away from big trees and shrubs so ensure their roots don’t puncture the lining. If you want to keep fish you need to have a pretty deep pond to stop it freezing over the winter. The smallest you should build a pond is 60cm (2ft) deep and 1 x 1.5m (3 x 5ft) across. However, the bigger the better.

If childrens’ safety is and issue or you prefer not to have to maintain a pond then a water feature is an excellent compromise. You could build a wall fountain or a pebble pool which can be sited in sun or shade near to a power supply. If you do not have external power then a wide plant container or half a barrel, without drainage holes, is ideal. You can still grow small aquatic plants or use floating oxygenators such as water hyacinth. You will need to protect them during winter or empty the container and start again in the spring.

For more about aquatic gardening visit these articles: Build a Garden Pond and Pond Plants

How do you grow your own cut flowers?

Buying cut flowers on a regular basis can be quite costly, so why not try growing your own in the garden?

They can be grown in their own cutting bed or mixed into a border to add to the display; either way you could raise enough flowers to have a constant supply of fresh blooms for your home.

To get the best quality flowers it is best to grow them in a sunny spot on well drained, fertile soil. Most will need to be supported to avoid damage and it is also wise to provide shelter from strong winds.

What typs of flowers can I grow?

• Half hardy annuals

• • The are the easiest to grow as the seed are sown directly into the soil where you want them flower
  • Sow between March and May, staggering the sowings to get a succession of flowers over the summer
  • Once all the flowers have been cut and no more buds form, lift the entire plant and put on the compost heap
  • Repeat the process next spring
  • Some examples are:
    • tobacco plants (nicotiana)
    • zinnia
    • snapdragons
    • cosmos
• Biennials
  • Sow seed between May and July to flower the following year
  • Sow where they are to flower or in seed trays
  • As with the annuals, discard after flowering is over
  • Keep sowing each May to get more flowers each year
  • Some examples are:
    • erysimum (wallflowers)
    • sweet william
    • dianthus
• Perennial
  • These will flower year after year so are a good investment
  • Plant rooted cuttings in spring or pot-grown specimens at any time
  • Perennials will die down for winter and most will be OK outside, however dahlias will need a good layer of mulch over them to help them through
  • Some examples are:
    • dahlia
    • chrysanthemum
    • alchemilla mollis
• Bulbs
  • Plant spring flowering bulbs at the end of summer or early autumn
  • Once the flowers have been cut and no more buds appear leave the foliage on the plant to die down naturally, this provides the bulb with food for the following year
  • Some examples are:
    • daffodils
    • tulips
    • allium

Most plants will benefit from being picked regularly as it will encourage more buds to form and extend your cutting season.

Keep all plants well watered throughout the growing season a feed every couple of weeks.

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