Our Garden in January

Following on from my failed attempt at taking photographs of our garden each week I have decided to just take photographs when there is something interesting to show you.

Today, 23rd January 2012, I was surprised to notice the size of the Camellia Buds, this time last year they were a lot smaller but we had just had the worst winter in many years so not surprising really.

I went outside with my camera and also found the Snowdrops looking great as well as the Winter Flowering Jasmine and Witch Hazel; take a look below.

To buy your own Camellia, Snowdrops, Witch Hazel or Winter Flowering Jasmine visit Crocus.co.uk

 

Join the RSPB Today

The RSPB are passionate about wildlife and with your help and support they can continue to save birds and wildlife, save and recreate special places for nature to flourish and to campaign and influence policies to help save the environment.

Join the RSPB today and receive the following:

• FREE entry to over 100 beautiful RSPB nature reserves in the UK
• FREE magazine, four times a year, packed with fantastic wildlife articles
• FREE joining gift including this “RSPB Where to discover nature” book if you join by 17th May
• If joining as a family you will receive the “RSPB Wild Families” welcome pack with booklets to help you and your children enjoy nature including FREE gifts and regular magazines for each child
• When charges to RSPB nature reserves apply, members get in free of charge

If you love garden birds and other wildlife then join the RSPB today to help our environment.

To help support RSPB conservation the RSPB also have an Online Shop which offers a great range of high-quality, environmentally friendly products.

They sell quality bird food, feeders, nestboxes, and from July to December, they also sell excellent quality Christmas cards, decorations and gifts.

100% of profit go to RSPB conservation

Gooseberry Sawfly

If you love to grow gooseberrys you will know the frustration of the gooseberry sawfly whose larvae can strip the leaves of gooseberry bushes.

I read an article recently about an organic solution to this pest; pick a bucket of foxglove leaves and pour over two pints of boiling water, leave for two days, strain and spray on gooseberry plants before any caterpillars appear.

So if you have foxgloves in your garden why not give it a try.

There are a couple of other non chemical controls:

• Regularly check the plants from mid-April onwards for sawfly larvae and pick them off by hand.
• A pathogenic nematode, sold as Nemasys Grow Your Own, can be watered onto infested plants. The nematodes enter the bodies of the sawfly larvae and infect them with a bacterial disease.

Chemical controls available include:

• Insecticides are Provado Ultimate Bug Killer, Westland Plant Rescue Fruit & Vegetable Bug Killer
• Organic pesticides such as Py Garden Insect Killer, Scotts Bug Clear Gun for Fruit & Veg, or Doff All in One Bug Spray
• Spray when young larvae are seen, with an insecticide approved for use on gooseberryand red currant

Weedkiller

Question:

I recently got involved has a volunteer in creating a community garden for elderly people the area we have was very overgrown we have now hacked it all to the ground with strimmers etc. but I have a idea that the weeds etc. will soon shoot up again.

I would like some advice on a good economical weedkiller has its a large area somebody mentioned something called weed matting is this easy to lay and expensive or inexpensive and above all effective and would that enable a lawn to be laid on top.

Answer:

It looks like you’ve taken on a massive job here but I’m sure it will be worth while in the end.

There are a few ways to remove the weeds. The first, and the hardest, is to dig over the whole area and remove the weeds by hand. Don’t be tempted to use a rotavator because this will chop up and spread perennial weed roots far and wide, making the weed problem much worse.

Leave the land for a few weeks during which time any annual weed seeds left will germinate and these can be removed by hand. Don’t add them to the compost heap as perennial weed seeds will remain in the soil.

If you don’t fancy digging, wait until new weed shoots appear and apply weedkiller containing glyphosate. I’ve done a bit of research and found the following weedkillers which sound good. You should be able to get them at your local garden centre or DIY store:

• Weedol 2 – An economical weedkiller that can be used all round the garden except on lawns, unless you want to kill them. Weedol doesn’t harm the soil so seeding or planting can be carried out immediately after treatment. Young green suckers of roses, lilac and plums can also be killed without harming the rootstock. Effective at any time of the year, Weedol is rainproof in 10 minutes. Contains diquat. Keep away from children and pets. 12 sachet carton treats 204m.
• Roundup Weedkiller – will completely kill all weeds and roots. Children and pets don’t need to be excluded from treated areas as it is biodegradable and starts to break down as soon as it touches the soil. It contains the chemical glyphosate and includes measuring cap for easy measuring. Do not use on lawns or other wanted plants as it will kill everything plant it touches. 280ml treats 280m.

Here are a few general rules to bear in mind when using weedkiller:

• Read the manufacturer’s instructions to be sure you are using the right weedkiller for the job
• Keep weedkiller off plants that you want to keep
• Dissolve/dilute the weedkiller according to instructions on the packaging and apply weeds using a fine rose (sprinkler head) on a watering can which you only use for weedkiller
• Don’t apply on a windy day because weedkillers can drift onto other plants
• The most effective time to apply weedkillers is when weeds are leafy and growing actively, mid-spring to early summer is ideal
• Keep weedkillers in a safe place, out of reach from children and pets. When empty, dispose of them carefully.

Not all weeds will die so repeat applications may be needed.

The final method to control weeds is to cover the ground with sheets of black plastic or old carpet. Emerging weed shoots won’t get any light and will starve and die. This may take a couple of years to be 100 per cent effective. You will be able to lay your lawn over the area once all the weeds have died. You may need to weed and feed the lawn after the first year to ensure new weeds don’t take hold.

For areas which are not going to be lawned you will need to ensure the weeds don’t come back. To help keep them to a minimum add a mulch of bark, compost, manure, gravel or slate. In addition you can also use a weed-proof membrane which is made of woven polypropylene. Lay this on top of the soil and add the mulch on top of that. Plant through the membrane by cutting crosses in the material. Again, the membrane will be available at your local garden centre or DIY store.

Shoot has launched it’s new Website

Shoot is an award-winning website for gardeners and has long been a favourite of mine. I have used their website often and was interested to hear that it had recently been relaunched.

It not only easier to use but it is full of lots of useful and interesting features including:

• Plant search
• Garden Planner
• Check which plants work in your garden before you add it to your list
• View your plants list in A-Z order, by Group and by Most recently added
• Move plants from your wish list to your plants I have list as you buy them
• Upload and share  garden images
• Monitor forums to get alerts about any new topics or posts added
• Opt in or out of our update emails and care advice emails
• Add links to your Blog, Twitter, Facebook and YouTube pages
• Filter plant search by flower colour & season, foliage colour & season and sun conditions
• ….. and lots, lots more.

Joining Shoot is Free but to benefit from the whole range of services you can take out a Full or Business Subscription – and for a limited time you can get £1 off by clicking here.

Protect yourself whilst Gardening in the Sun

We are always hearing about how important it is to use suntan lotion while on holiday abroad or out in the park or on the beach here in the UK.

But did you know that just tinkering around the garden for an hour or so could result in serious sun damage?

Most damage occurs during the summer months and the elderly are more at risk, however, sun damage can be a real issue at any time or year; whatever your age.

So next time you head out to do a bit of weeding or pruning don’t forget …….

Apply sunscreen on all exposed areas and reapply after a couple of hours particularly if you are working in exposed areas

Cover your shoulders and arms as these are the areas most likely to burn

Wear a hat with a brim to shield your head and protect your eyes

Carry a bottle of water and drink regularly to avoid dehydration

Try to go back indoors every couple of hours to take a break

When it is particularly hot try to avoid gardening between midday and two o’clock

13 Steps to Building a Garden Pond

There are several points you need to consider before building your pond: Should it be formal or informal, natural or modern? Do you want to keep fish, grow plants or attract wildlife? Are there children to keep safe?

Once you have answered these questions you need to decide where you want to site the pond or water feature bearing in mind the following:  A pond should be kept away from big trees and shrubs so ensure their roots don’t puncture the lining and to avoid leaves falling into the water. If you want to keep fish you need to have a pretty deep pond to stop it freezing over the winter. The smallest you should build a pond is 60cm (2ft) deep and 1 x 1.5m (3 x 5ft) across; however, the bigger the better.

Now you can begin building:

1. The easiest way to build a pond is to use a butyl rubber or plastic sheet. To work out how much to buy:
   • • • • Dig your pond to the size and shape required then measure the length, width and the deepest point
         • Multiply the depth by two and add to the length then again to the width
         • Add 50cm (20in) for overlap on both the length and the width
         • This is the size of sheet you need
2. When digging the pond ensure that the bottom is firm and flat and free from stones. At least part of it needs to be 60cm (2ft) deep for fish and deep-water plants the rest can be 45cm (18ins) deep
3. Build in some shelves around the sides 15cm (6ins) wide and 20cm (8ins) below the surface
4. Slope one side to allow wildlife to escape
5. Ensure that all pond sides are level by using a spirit level, don’t use your eye
6. Spread 2.cm (1in) of soft sand over the base, shelves and slopes then cover with pond underlay followed by the liner
7. Add a layer of poor garden or aquatic soil to the bottom of the hole for planing deep aquatics
8. Start filling the pond from a hose or water butt
9. Once full, trim the liner to 30cm (1ft) overlap
10. Cover the overlap with paving stones or turf ensuring that the liner is not exposed to the sun as it will rot
11. If possible add a bucket of water from a healthy, established pond to help speed up the colonization process
12. Leave for about a week before planting and six weeks before introducing fish
13. If you wish to attract wildlife to your garden then don’t add fish as they tend to eat the insect larvae

Looking after your Pond

Spring: most ponds will turn green in spring but it will clear itself in a few weeks. However, new ponds could remain green for up to twelve months. Pull out blanketweed and leave on the side for a day or so to allow creatures to escape back into the pond. Remove duckweed with a small fishing net.

Summer: Feed fish between May and September. Pull out oxygenators if they threaten to take over the entire pond.

Autumn: Remove excess silt from the bottom of the pond leaving about 1 inch to allow plants to root. Remove floating plants once the die, cut down marginals and pull out dead lily leaves. Keep autumn leaves out of the pond by covering with a net.

Winter: If you keep fish place a plastic ball on the surface to avoid the pond freezing over totally. If you don’t keep fish there is no winter maintenance required.

For more information on Aquatic Gardening visit the following articles: Aquatic Gardening and Pond Plants

Insurance Warning for Gardeners

In a recent report from the London Stock Exchange it was thought that most people are underinsured for the potential loss or damage of items in their gardens.

Comparethemarket.com say that 1.2 million households in the UK have been affected by garden crime, but only 25% of homes currently have policies that cover them for the loss of or damage to expensive goods in their gardens.

So when your household insurance is up for renewal why not search Comparethemarket to make sure your policy covers everything you have in your garden, shed and garage.

It is also worth while checking that you are covered for trees or fences coming down in your garden, and, if you have an allotment, check that the items you keep on site are also covered.

Gardening in Raised Beds

As gardeners we love to be outside in the garden either planting, digging, pruning or doing one of the many other jobs that always need doing.

However, I also think that what we would all agree is that it can be back-breaking!

One of the best ways to reduce wear and tear on your back is to plant in containers or to install a series of Raised Beds. Indeed if you like to grow vegetables or have an allotment then growing in Raised Beds is often the best way to succeed.

The advantages of Raised Beds:

• able to grow in otherwise unsuitable soil or locations
• improved drainage and soil structure
• extra height of soil increases rooting depth
• cloches, tunnels or frames can easily be erected over the beds
• no need to walk on the soil
• you can work at a comfortable height
• especially handy for wheelchair users and those with back problems
• soil compaction is greatly reduced if not eliminated
• close planting creates a micro-climate which leads to healthy plants and bigger crops.

Take a look at this short video from Harrod Horticultural which shows you the advantages of gardening in raised beds:

If you are good at DIY then you should be able to build your own Raised Beds as they did on Gardeners World (click here to see how to build your own).

However, these days there are quite a number of easy to assemble, low maintenance plastic Link-a-Bord kits available on the market which make starting your Raised Bed Garden so much more quick and easy. Harrod Horticulture has a number of different Raised Bed Kits available as well as a wide range of accessories such as Hoops, Covers, Liners and Irrigation Kits so take a look now to find your ideal solution:

Standard Timber Raised Beds	Superior Timber Raised Beds	Allotments Timber Raised Beds	Corner Timber Raised Beds	Manger Raised Planter	Timer Raised Bed Tables

To complete your new garden you will need top soil:

Rolawn Vegetable & Fruit Topsoil is a fertile, organic rich, friable topsoil derived from prime arable land and a consistent organic matter, which ensures consistent results.  A bulk bag is exceptional value containing up to 50% more product than 1 tonne of ordinary topsoil  covering up to 20m² at a depth of 50mm. Also, there is currently a  multi-buy discount on orders of 2 bags or more. Order Now!

So whether you’re completely new to raised bed gardening, or you’re experienced in this simple, easy and highly effective way of growing, there’ll be something for you here…

How do I take cuttings from Peony and Rhododendron?

Question:

My late father has a Peony Rose and a Rhododendron and I want to take cuttings from these to give to other family members before the house is sold. Can you advise.

Answer:

It is extremely difficult to take cuttings of Peony and are best propagating by division. Carefully clear away the soil around a portion of root and cut pieces away with some root and at least one growth bud for each plant needed. Place into a pot with good quality compost and keep well watered until established.

Rhododendrons are also difficult to root successfully so to give it as much help as possible remove a thin slice of bark near the base of the stem when you take the cutting. Dip the wounded end in hormone rooting compound before potting in a good quality potting compost.

Cuttings should really be taken in the Spring or Autumn so if you can leave it a few weeks before taking yours it would be better. If you have to do it soon then ensure the cuttings get some sort of protection from cold, winds and frost.

How can I train my Jasmine?

Question:

I have a jasmine which has been planted by the front door and have been trying to train it over the door but to be honest I’ve no idea what I’m doing. It has been there 12 years and has many trunks if you know what I mean. I don’t know if I should be cutting some of them out or what growth to cut out. As you can guess I’m a novice gardener.

Answer:

The first thing we need to do is establish which plant you have.

There are two main types of Jasmine, one flowers in Winter/Spring the other flowers in the summer and they need to be treated differently.

The most well known jasmine is Jasminum officinale which has white or cream flowers in the summer and is highly scented. It is most likely that your plant is this one as it is often planted by doorways to appreciate the scent. It don’t mind a little shade but the sun will bring out the scent; it should also be in a sheltered position. It can grow to 12m which makes them ideal for training over an arch but it can take over if it isn’t kept in check. You have two options at this point; prune it back and hope it recovers or get rid of it and start again.

If you want to try to rejuvenate it then follow these steps but bear in mind that all hard pruning can be risky and in most likelihood it will not flower this year:

• This work should be done during February or March but not if frost is expected

• First cut out any dead or really old stems right down to the base

• Cut down any remaining main stems to about 18”

• Cut back any stems growing out from the main stem to about 6”

• If possible remove the top layer of soil from around the base and replace with new top soil or compost

• Water well and top off with a thick layer of well rotted compost (this is called mulch)

• Keep well watered during dry spells

• Fertilise with a general fertiliser in the spring

Once the plant is cut down you will be able to see the trellis or arch so check that it is still sound and if not replace or repair it. Once the plant begins to grow you must regularly tie in the new growth to fill in any gaps up the trellis and keep tying them in right up to the top of the arch (don’t tie in too tight, leave some room for growth). Once the stems get too long just cut them to the length you want. Cut out or shorten any shoots which begin to grow outwards from the main plant to ensure that it doesn’t get too wide. When making your cuts always cut just above a “node” with a slanting cut. A node is a “join” on the stem, once cut, this join produces a new stem or a flower bud. Cutting below the “node” means you are cutting off the chance for a new flower or stem. The thing is that you want to produce a plant that you like the look of so if something doesn’t look good to you then cut it out or cut it down and let it re-grow to the shape and size you want.

Plants that grow close to a house, wall, or fence never get enough water from rain alone so need to be watered regularly particularly during dry spells, when it is developing buds or after a hard prune. Always keep a good layer of mulch on the surface of the soil which will help keep moisture in the soil and help stop weeds developing. Fertilise with a general fertiliser once a month from spring through to autumn.

If your plant flowers in Winter/Spring with yellow flowers then it is a Winter Flowering Jasmine which means that it develops it’s buds during the summer/autumn and therefore should not be pruned during the autumn or winter otherwise all the flowers will be lost. All pruning needs to take place once the flowers have gone over which is usually around April or May. They are very good for training over an arch but they only reach 2.5m so will not cover a large area. They like the sun but do not mind some shade. Follow the same steps as above but carry out the work in late spring or summer.

There is another plant, Trachelospermum, which has scented jasmine-like flowers and is often known as star jasmine. It is evergreen so if your plant does not keep it’s leaves in the winter then this isn’t the one you have. It is an excellent climber for a sunny, sheltered spot but does not survive outside in all areas. If you think this is your plant then let me know and I’ll let you know how to deal with it.

Gardeners World Scrapbook

I have just come across a great little feature which is a must for all gardeners.

Do you buy gardening magazines each month to find out what you should be doing and for advice from the experts? Do you tear out the articles to keep for the future? But do you then forget where you put them?

This is what I tend to do but Gardeners World’s new feature allows you to save your favourite articles from the website so they are all in one place and easy accessible.

Just register online (minimal information required) then search through the articles when you find something you are interested in just click the icon and it will be added to your own personal scrapbook.

I think it’s great so take a look now by visiting http://www.gardenersworld.com/.

I still like to browse through the magazine first then go online and add the best articles to my scrapbook. If you don’t subscribe to Gardeners’ World now is a good time as they are offering 25% off. Take a look here.

Website Review – Coblands

I have come across a new website which is worthy of being added to my list of preferred suppliers; I haven’t placed an order with them yet but when I do I will post a review of their services.

Coblands Nurseries’ website, has a wide range of plants including Fruit, Rhododendron & Azaleas, Hedging, Climbing Plants, Ferns, Bamboo, Bulbs, Designer Plants, Grasses, Shrubs and Perennials. They also have ranges of plants such as Aromatic foliage,  Architectural Plants,  Moisture loving plants,  Shade loving plants and Ground cover plants to help you find the types of plants you want.

They are also an approved stockist of Rolawn Topsoil, Compost, Bark and Turf; recognised as the leading supplier of quality topsoils.

As well as lots of special offers throughout the year they also have a membership club which will save you 15% on all plants, all day, every day.

Just register to receive these great benefits for Coblands club members

• Free membership.
• Collect points to make savings.
• Tiered membership, Bronze, Silver and Gold discounts.
• Access to special members only promotions.
• Advanced previews on new products and offers.

And to top it off, standard delivery is free when the order value is over £55.

Click here to see Special Offers from Coblands

Tritonia Rubrolucens and Hippeastrum (Amaryllis)

Question:

Could you please tell me how best to deal with the foliage of “Tritunia rudrolucens” and “Hipeastrum advenum”now that the flowers have finally died off, leaving climps of foliage 12 to 18 inches high.

Answer:

Do you mean Tritonia rubrolucens and Hippeastrum (Amaryllis)? If so here is how to deal with each of them. If these are not the plants you are enquiring about could you please double check the spellings and get back to me.

Hippeastrum or commonly known as Amaryllis are usually grown as an indoor plant for Christmas; with some care you can get these to re-flower year after year. Here’s how: stop watering and put the plants in their pots into a frost free place for the summer. They will usually die back within a couple of months but if you want to you can cut back the foliage. Keep them dormant until about October at which time you can bring them into a light position indoors and begin feeding and watering. With a bit of luck they will re-flower for Christmas next year.

Tritonia are similar to Crocosmia but are not very hardy so they should only be grown outdoors in mild area. If yours are outdoors and have started to die back cover the top of the plant with a good layer of mulch to allow them to die back and to keep them warm throughout the rest of the winter. If you grew them indoors then I suggest moving the pots into a frost free shed or greenhouse to let them dry out and for the foliage to die down. You can either leave them as they are until next autumn when you can redress the pots, water and bring indoors to flower. Alternatively, once the plants have dried out remove the compost from around the corms and leave the corms to dry out completely; next autumn re-plant the corms in fresh compost, water and bring indoors.

Will Cherry Tree Suckers Produce Fruit?

Question:

Will suckers picked from the roots of newly planted fruit cherry trees grow into normal fruit producing trees or will they produce inferior fruit?

Answer:

Cherries with their own roots will grow into very large trees making them unsuitable for smaller gardens. Here in the UK, and I assume in Australia fruit trees, including cherries, are grafted onto rootstocks which limits their size and also helps to encourage earlier fruiting.

The most common rootstock here in the UK is ‘Colt’ and it results in manageable sized trees ideal for small gardens. There are other rootstocks available; the label from the tree should tell you which rootstock has been used.

Therefore any suckers which come from the roots will not produce fruit at all and ideally should be gently pulled off as close to the base as possible.

Lavender dentata

Question:

In February I bought a lavender dentata tree which claimed on the label to be hardy to the UK I found out some time later it was not and bought the tree in and planted it in a pot I have put it out during the day has the weather has warmed up but on inspecting the same tree at my garden centre yesterday I think mine is dying the spikes are all drooping downwards and its spikes are brittle the one I saw in my garden centre seem to have the spikes pointing upright and the spikes are soft what I cant understand is when I bought it and on subsequent visits to my garden centre the trees were all outdoors for 24hoursso I unsure where I have gone wrong do you think it can be saved and what steps can I take to resurrect it any help appreciated

Answer:

I’m not sure how your garden centre managed to keep these lavenders outdoors all winter as they are not hardy in the UK. If all the spikes are brittle then I’m afraid it is probably dead. However, if you do have any soft green growth left you can try cutting back to the green parts, keep it indoors for another couple of months and see if it comes back. Don’t cut into the old, woody parts of the plant as it will not survive. Hope this helps and your plant survives.

Getting rid of Weeds

Question:

The house next door to mine is a long term empty property. In its garden it is riddled with 2 weeds one is mare’s tail and the other I don’t know the name of but it is like a route that travels under the surface and every now and then it shoots up just 2 or 3 blades of grass type things. My problems I cannot do anything to stop these 2 weeds coming through into my garden. Next to that garden I have a small patch of tended garden which is turned over and is ready for planting up. But because of the weeds next door there is nothing I can do about it can you help. I have had an idea which I would like to run past you, from what I can see both weeds seem to be just under the surface and I wandered if I dug down a spade deep all along the edge of my side along the perimeter, so as too cut off the roots and then somehow put in a barrier would the mayors tail and other dig its way under the barrier and if not I then can to somehow kill off the rots on my side before planting. I have tried weed killing but to no avail and it gets worse yearly. Please can you help?

Answer:

I’m sorry to hear about your weed problem. I think your suggestion is an excellent idea. Once the barrier is in place it is extremely unlikely that the weeds’ roots will go down far enough to make their way over to your side of the garden. Once you have cut the roots and put the barrier in place I would double check all stray roots are removed from the area, wait a few weeks to see if any new weeds appear. If so then treat the area with a good weedkiller such as Roundup and that should be that.

Fatsia japonica

Question:

I want advice on my Fatsia japonica (false castor oil) that has this year flowered and now has black berries. I read somewhere that the berries are poisonous but when you search online you get mixed reports. I have a young boy and don’t want to risk him eating anything that could cause him harm.

Answer:

I had not heard that the Fatsia Japonica was poisonous so did some research myself. Most of the websites I use regularly do not mention that it is (including the RHS). However, I did find one that did state that the seed and other parts of the plant were indeed poisonous. I think I would tend to err on the safe side and assume that it is poisonous. You could pull it up or replant it somewhere that your son does not have access.

Plant your Spring Flowering Bulbs

Now is the time to plant your spring flowering bulbs.

Spring Flowering Bulbs come in lots of shapes, sizes and colours but the one thing they have in common is the ability to turn a dull late winter, early spring garden into an oasis of light and colour. No garden is complete without the good old daffodil or tulip but there are many other spring flowering bulbs which will add additional interest.

There are bulbous plants for lots of different situations but nearly all require good drainage and many thrive in sunny sites. Many bulbous plants are threatened in the wild so it is important to buy bulbs from cultivated sources such as Crocus.co.uk which has a great range of colourful, healthy Spring Flowering Bulbs.

When planting incorporate well-rotted organic matter and a balanced fertiliser. Bulbs generally need planting quite deep; the general rule is three times their own depth. However, if you get the depth wrong most bulbs will pull themselves down into the ground using special, contractile roots. If you’re planting bulbs in heavy soil, add grit to the bottom of the hole to ensure good drainage.

A few bulbs prefer shallow planting. Plant Madonna lilies (Lilium candidum) with the tip of the bulb just showing above ground. Lay Crown Imperials (Fritillaria imperialis) on their sides so that water can’t collect in their hollow centre and make them rot.

Deadhead regularly and apply a low nitrogen, high potassium fertiliser in subsequent years. Lift and divide if they become overcrowded.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium cristophii – Star of Persia
Huge globes of small star-shaped, pinkish-purple flowers appear in summer above narrow, grey-green leaves. In bloom these fabulous globes – up to 20cm (8in) in diameter – have a metallic sheen. The faded flowerheads hold up well in the border and are useful for dried flower arrangements. Perfect for a sunny site, dotted in small groups among ornamental grasses, or as part of a Mediterranean scheme. Alliums look best planted between medium-sized herbaceous plants, which help to mask the strap-like leaves, which fade by the time the flowers appear.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’ – Dutch Garlic
Dense, rich-purple globes held high on erect stems above strap-like, mid green leaves appear in early summer. They look spectacular grouped in a pot, or in a sunny border, dotted in groups among ornamental grasses, or as part of a Mediterranean scheme. Alliums look best planted between medium-sized herbaceous plants, which help to mask the strap-like leaves, which fade by the time the flowers appear.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium sphaerocephalon – round-headed leek
Small, egg-shaped, claret-coloured flowerheads appear like drumsticks on tall, slender stems above strap-like, mid-green leaves in mid to late summer. Planted en masse in a border in full sun, these diminutive claret flowers look great emerging from a screen of foliage, or against a backdrop of ornamental grasses. They gently fade as summer comes to a close.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Anemone blanda blue-flowered – winter windflower blue-flowered
This is a wonderful plant that produces cheerful, daisy-like flowers in shades of blue and purple in March and April. These are perfect plants for naturalising in a mixed border around the base of deciduous shrubs, or adding spring colour to the edge of a woodland garden. For maximum impact, plant in bold drifts in September or October, and if happy, they should spread quite quickly.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Crocus chrysanthus ‘Cream Beauty’
Rich-cream goblets with brown flushes and deep golden-yellow throats, emerge in February and March amid slender, strap-shaped, mid green leaves. These spring-flowering crocuses are perfect for naturalising in sunny, well-drained areas of the lawn. Relatively vigorous, they soon form large colonies, which can be divided in early autumn for use in other parts of the garden.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Fritillaria meleagris – snake’s head fritillary
Pretty, pendent, white and pinkish-purple bells with distinctive checkerboard markings on slender stems in April and May. These delightful snake’s head fritillaries are perfect for naturalising in a moist woodland edge or wildflower garden. It’s essential to select a site where the soil remains moist in summer.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Galanthus nivalis ‘Viridapice’ – snowdrop
A taller variety with a distinctive, long spathe which looks like the flowers have a hood. This is a good choice for those looking for a slightly more unusual snowdrop, or those wanting to add to their collection as it is still quite rare. Both the inner and outer petals are white, but have green markings which make them look as if they have been painted with a brush.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Woodstock’ – Hyacinth
A fabulous hyacinth with deep magenta-purple blooms that are delicately scented. Plant in mixed beds in the garden or in pots on the patio so you can move them around for best effect. A great colour for mixing with deep purples or plum shades to create a ‘bruised’ border.

Browse the full range of Spring Flowering Bulbs from Crocus.co.uk

Plant of the Month for September – Japanese Anemone

Our plant of the month for September is Japanese Anemone.

Japanese Anemone are beautiful plants, are very easy to grow and flower their heads off from August through to the frosts. During September they are at their best when there are few other plants around. The Gardening Register has two varieties in the garden Anemone ‘September Charm’ and Anemone ‘Honorine Jobert’. Honorine Jobert has been in for nearly ten years now and it never ceases to amaze me every year. September Charm was planted last autumn so this is it’s first true flowering season. The plants need to bulk up a bit before they’ll be as showy as Honorine. Take a look at the plants in our garden.

They are happy in full sun or partial shade and prefer moist, fertile soil. They are fully hardy and flower between July and September or even to the frosts if you’re lucky.

To care for your Japanese Anemones:

• Cut back the stalks after the flowers have faded
• Tidy up old dead leaves in March
• Apply a generous 5-7cm (2-3in) mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant in spring
• Avoid moving the plant since it resents disturbance
• Where necessary lift and divide congested clumps in early spring

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Click here to see the whole range of Japanese Anemone from Crocus.co.uk

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