Jobs to do in January

In the Flower Garden:

• Plant bare-root roses, trees and shrubs
• Prune standard roses
• Take hardwood cuttings from shrubs
• Remove dead stems and leaves from perennials
• Tidy grasses

In the Vegetable Garden:

• Fork over empty beds and mix in compost
• Plant fruit trees
• Prune Gooseberry bushes
• Warm up beds for early crops
• Tie raspberry and blackberry canes to support wires

In the Greenhouse:

• Monitor heaters to ensure they are working efficiently
• Take root cuttings of perennials
• Wash greenhouse glass to let in more light
• Water plants when the compost is dry
• Regularly deadhead over-wintering plants

Lawns:

• Continue to Remove fallen leaves
• Don’t walk on frozen turf
• Have the mower over­hauled and to make sure that the other lawn tools are ready for use in the spring
• Laying turf is possible during fine spells

General:

• Recycle your Christmas tree
• Order seed potatoes, onion sets and garlic
• Order early from seed catalogues
• Dig compost into empty areas of soil
• Add shredded winter prunings to your compost heap

Allotment Progress in Pictures

A photographic diary of the progress on our Allotment in Knotty Ash, Liverpool.

1st February 2012 – most of the allotment is dormant at the moment but the Broad Beans sown early autumn are doing well as are the Sweet Peas, Onions and Garlic. Quite pleased with progress as this is the first time I’ve grown crops over the winter. We also still have potatoes in the ground which, so far, haven’t been eaten or rotted off so we should have them available up to the next set of crop. George at the allotment has his seed potatoes available so bought a bag of Maris Piper which are now chitting in the shed.
4th October 2011 – at this time of year there isn’t a lot going on at the allotment. We still have potatoes in the ground and hopefully they will be OK for a few weeks yet. The pumpkins and squashes are still doing well and should be a nice size for Halloween. The recent sunshine will have done them a power of good but I have now covered them to keep the worst of the weather off them for the rest of the month. The peppers and chillies in the greenhouse are just ripening and will probably be over by the end of next week. Pleased with the crop. I have harvested most of the ripe chillies and have pickled them to preserve them over the winter. I am still waiting for my onion sets and garlic bulbs to arrive so I can plant them out for a spring harvest. I have also sown a few salad leaves to see if I can get another crop before winter truly sets in.
20th July 2011 – The main star on the allotment at the moment has to be the pumpkins and squash. They have tripled in size in the last three weeks and have flowered wonderfully. I’m not sure how many fruits there are but more than enough for us as long as I can stop them rotting off. I’ve lifted as many as possible onto beds of straw so hope that will do. Potatoes continue to do well and are beginning to die back, good harvest again today. Also harvested quite a lot of tomatoes, a lettuce, another beetroot and a good sized bouquet of fragrant sweet peas.
18th June 2011 – the salad and veg under our netting is doing really well and we have harvested some lettuce and carrots already. We have planted more strawberries in this tunnel but will move them into the fruit cages next year. The pumpkin seedlings have been thinned and are doing well, I suspect I’ve planted the pumpkins too close together but I’ll worry about that later. The new rhubarb have been planted, two are doing well but one is still dormant and may even be dead. The potatoes are all doing well but we are quite a way off harvesting I suspect. All the fruit trees have settled in well and the gooseberries, blueberries and strawberries are all fruiting. We’ve managed to harvest a few strawberries already and there are lots left. The tomatoes, peppers and chillis have been repotted into larger pots and are looking really healthy. The tomatoes are flowering so as long as we keep on top of the watering they should produce a good crop of fruit. Just hoping the greenhouse is hot enough for the peppers and chillis. Some of the roof felt was blown off the shed roof a couple of weeks ago and the rain has been getting into the shed. Allan managed to replace some of it on Wednesday before the heavens opened! We’ve still not finished painting the shed which we must do before winter. We also need to put some guttering up to stop the rain dripping down the sides of the shed.
19th April 2011 – The skeleton of the fruit cages is up, we just need to attach the netting but there’s no rush to do that. We’ve planted the Walnut Tree and under planted with some strawberries and gooseberry bushes. The Cherry and Plum Trees will go into the same bed along with more strawberries and blueberry bushes. Anything low growing will go under the trees. We think there will be enough light. The Asparagus bed has been planted up and the first spears are poking though as you can see below. Next to the Asparagus we have a general growing bed which currently contains Garlic, Lettuce, Carrots and Spring Onions, the Onions will go in next along with some Beetroot. The next bed is growing Rhubarb, Squash and Pumpkins and the final bed is for potatoes. The next row only has one bed at the moment which needs digging over, once this is done we will put in some Tomatoes and Brassicas we think. As well as sowing seed and planting out we have also painted the shed a fetching green colour and begun to add netting supports to the beds.
February 2011 – Three tonne of top soil delivered and used to fill up the 4 raised beds nearest to the shed. Garlic planted in one bed along with some carrot seeds sown. Furthest bed is to be used for the asparagus which is currently at Allans garden. Allan also built two new raised beds which will be used as fruit cages.
December 10th 2010. Allan and I built the shed on one of the coldest days of the year. Once complete we lined it with insulation material and added some flooring to help keep it clean and dry. Shelves are now in.
May 2010. The base had been laid by Allan and his father in law and Allan is now building the greehouse. Three beds already built and poly down to keep the weeds away.
June 2009. Allotment is ours and we’re marking out the positions for the shed, greenhouse, beds etc.

 

 

 

Read more about the progress of our allotment.

Jobs to do in September

Flower/Plants

• Prune rambling roses
• Cut back perennials once they have finished flowering
• Collect seed from perennials and store in a cool place
• Take cuttings of lavender
• Cut everlasting flowers and seed heads for use in indoor arrangements

Fruit/Vegetables

• Plant out rooted strawberry runners into new beds
• Sow outdoors: hardy spring onions, lettuces, salads and Chinese cabbages
• Sow parsley in pots for picking in winter
• Plant out Japanese onion sets and garlic
• Cut down raspberry canes once they have finished cropping

Greenhouse

• Pick off the lower leaves from tomatoes to allow light and air to reach the fruits
• Keep poinsettias in the dark for 14 hours a day to encourage colourful bract formation
• Close vents at night as the weather turns cooler
• Keep grow bags well watered
• Start watering indoor cyclamen to promote new growth

General

• Hoe borders to keep weeds down
• Prepare areas for sowing new lawns during showery weather
• Trim hedges and topiary into shape
• Buy spring bulbs
• Order sweet-pea seed for autumn planting

Latest from the Allotment

Spent a few hours at the allotment yesterday with Allan and managed to complete one of the fruit cages and painted half of the shed. Allan also cut and fitted the plastic panels in the greenhouse door and I planted our Walnut tree, a couple of gooseberries and some strawberries.

It is beginning to look like a proper allotment now! I’ll try to remember to take some photos next week.

How to Propagate your own Plants for Free

Buying new plants for your garden is one of life’s little pleasures and can be extremely satisfying but often expensive. Equally as satisfying and an awfully lot cheaper is propagating your own plants.

There are several methods available; softwood cuttings, semi-ripe cuttings, hardwood cuttings, root cuttings, leaf cuttings, division, layering and collecting and sowing seed. 

Softwood Cuttings

These cuttings are taken from the current years young growth between April and June.

• Choose a young side shoot and cut below a node about 5-10cm from the tip
• Remove the bottom leaves and immerse in a fungicide solution to avoid fungal infections
• Dip the base in rooting powder
• Place a few cuttings in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost
• Place the pot in a heated greenhouse or propagator or on a windowsill enclosed in a polythene bag

Keep the compost moist and once you begin to see new growth, pot individually into 10cm pots. Before planting out in the garden get them used to cooler temperatures by placing them outside during the day or move to a cool greenhouse.

Semi-ripe Cutting

These cuttings are taken from this year’s ripe growth between June and August.

• The base of the shoot should have started to turn brown
• Cut just below a node about 10-15cm from the tip or pull the shoot off with some of the woody tissue (heel) attached
• Remove the bottom leaves and immerse in a fungicide solution to avoid fungal infections
• Dip the base in rooting powder
• Place a few cuttings in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost
• Place the pot in a heated greenhouse or propagator or on a windowsill enclosed in a polythene bag

Keep the compost moist and once you begin to see new growth, pot individually into 10cm pots. Before planting out in the garden get them used to cooler temperatures by placing them outside during the day or move to a cool greenhouse.

Hardwood Cuttings

These cuttings are taken from this year’s woody growth between September and November.

• Cut a length just below and above a node about 15-30cm long
• Remove the leaves and dip the base in rooting powder
• Place a few in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost
• Place the pot in a cold frame or in the ground in an open, sheltered, sunny position

Ensure the soil is well drained and the cuttings should be rooted by the following Autumn.

Root Cuttings

These cutting should be taken between September and November.

• Expose the roots of shrubs or lift herbaceous plants and select a young root near the crown of the plant
• Cut a length 5cm long with a straight cut at the top and a diagonal cut at the base
• Immerse in fungicide and insert in a pot of compost so the top is level with the top of the compost
• Cover with 0.5cm compost.
• Fine roots should be laid on the top of the compost and covered lightly
• Place in a cold greenhouse or cold frame and keep the compost moist.

The cuttings should have rooted by the following spring when they can be potted on.

Leaf Cuttings

There are three methods of taking leaf cuttings.

1. The first involves taking a whole leaf including the stalk (petiole)
   1. Dip the base of the stalk in rooting powder
   2. Insert in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost so the stalk is buried
   3. Place in a propagator at 18-21 degrees C or enclose in a polythene bag and stand on a warm windowsill
   4. When growth appears at the base of the leaf lift and pot on
2. The second method is to take a whole leaf and cut halfway through the main vein on the back of the leaf
   1. Place the leaf, cut side down, on the top of the compost
   2. Place grit on top of the leaf to keep it in contact with the compost
   3. Place in a propagator at 18-21 degrees C or enclose in a polythene bag and stand on a warm windowsill
   4. New growth will appear at the cuts
3. The third method is mainly used on long leaves
   1. Cut the leaf into 5cm sections and dip the bottom edge in rooting powder
   2. Insert the leaf vertically into the compost to about half it’s length
   3. Place in a propagator at 18-21 degrees C or enclose in a polythene bag and stand on a warm windowsill
   4. New growth will form at the base

Division

Division involves dividing a plant into two or more plants and should be carried out on most perennials every 3-5 years to maintain their vigor.

• Divide in late autumn or early spring
• Lift the plant taking care not to damage the roots and shake off the soil
• Using a knife or spade cut the plant into three or four similar sized pieces
• Plant out each new section as soon as possible, adding compost and a general fertiliser

Layering

Layering works well on woody plants and involves growing a new plant while it is still attached to the parent plant.

• It is best carried out between late spring and autumn
• Find a stem which is flexible enough to bend to the ground
• Make a cut about 5cm long through a node and apply rooting powder
• Where the node touches the ground dig a small hole in the soil and add compost
• Bury the stem 10cm deep at the node and peg down to secure
• Tie the end of the stem to a support

Roots should develop within 18 months at which point it can be removed from the parent plant and planted in its own spot.

Sowing Seed

There are several advantages and disadvantage to propagating by seed.

Advantages:

• Large volume of seeds readily available
• Cheap
• Simple
• Vast choice of varieties
• Can be stored for a length of time

Disadvantages:

• Not all seeds come true to type
• Some plants have lost the ability to produce seed
• Some plants take a long time to mature and flower

Most people will buy their seeds from a garden centre or specialist seeds man and just follow the directions on the packet. However it is very easy to collect seed from your own garden and also completely free.

Some plants will seed themselves, usually where you don’t want them. Once they have seeded just thin them out and/or transplant to another part of your garden. You could also pot them on and give them to friends and family.

If you do use your own seed you must remember that most do not come true to type so will not necessarily resemble the plant they came from.

You must collect the seed when it is ripe; store pods in a warm, dry place until they split. Once you have the seed label them and keep in a dry, dark, well ventilated area at between 1 and 5 degrees C.

Seeds have six requirement in order to germinate:

• Seeds have little water which is why they stay dormant for so long so water is required to germinate
• The temperature required to germinate vary by seed but generally heat helps
• Oxygen is required for respiration
• Food is supplied within the seed, if planted too deeply the food with be exhausted before it is able to photosynthesise
• Some seeds require light to germinate
• Some seeds have chemical inhibitors which need to diminish before germination is possible

Some seeds are difficult to germinate and a number of techniques have been developed to overcome these difficulties:

• Soaking seed in warm water for 12-24 hours will soften the coating and help it absorb water and remove chemical inhibitors
• Scarification: Nick large seeds with a knife or rub smaller seeds with sandpaper. This weakens the coating and allows water to enter
• Stratification: Some seeds require a period of cold before they can germinate. Place the seeds in a 50:50 mixture of moist sand and compost and place in the fridge for 4-12 weeks
• Most seeds will germinate better with some heat

Hardy Annuals can be sown outside in March or April when the soil has started to warm up.

Biennials and Perennials can be sown later in May or June. Sow directly where you want them to flower/fruit or sow in seedbeds and transplant later.

• The soil should be raked to break up the soil and to remove any stones
• Firm the soil with the back of the rake and apply a general fertiliser
• If the area is dry, water well and allow to drain, this should be carried out 3-4 weeks in advance of sowing to allow weeds germinate
• Weed the area well then sow the seed thinly in drills 5-15mm deep
• Cover lightly with soil
• Ensure the soil is kept moist and weed free
• When the seedlings appear thin them out to around 10cm apart, carry out a final thinning to 15-20cm depending on the size of the final plant.

Other seeds can be sown in a greenhouse, a propagator or on a window sill.

• Ideally use a compost formulated specifically for growing seed
• Fill a seed tray to the top with compost and gently firm, wet the compost and allow to dry
• Scatter the seed thinly on the surface of the compost and cover lightly with compost
• Cover with a sheet of glass or place in a propagator at a temperature of 18-21 degrees C
• Do not allow the compost to dry out
• Once the seedlings begin to show remove the cover/glass and move to where they can get maximum light but not in direct sunlight
• When the seedlings develop their first proper leaves prick them out into individual pots being careful not to damage the roots
• Never handle seedlings by their stems.

If the seeds are to go outside they need should be first moved to a closed cold frame to get them used to the change in temperature. After a few days they can be left in an open cold frame or stood outside during the day.

They can be planted out into well prepared ground once all risk of frost has passed.

Frosty/Snowy Weather

It seems the whole country has very low temperatures leading to morning frosts, some areas also have snow!

During this cold spell try not to walk in your lawn as it could damage the grass.

Also, leave out water for the birds but check it every morning, defrosting it if necessary.

Tender plants should be covered with fleece or moved into the greenhouse or conservatory.

Busy day at the allotment

Allan (my brother) bought over his raspberries to plant on the border of our plot on the allotment. He got on with that while I sorted out the greenhouse. We decided to remove the remaining green tomatoes and compost the plants. If they ripen then great, if they don’t I’ll make some green tomato chutney for Christmas. Allan also dug over the new raised bed and we sowed some green manure to dig in in the spring. I dug up our remaining Anya potatoes and we sowed green manure into that bed too. The allotment looks clean and tidy and shouldn’t need too much attention now.

Plant Hardiness Zones around the World

Plant hardiness defines the lowest temperature at which a plant will survive during the winter.

The zones are defined differently in the UK, the US and Europe.

The UK uses the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) Zones:

• H – Fully Hardy – Hardy to -15 degrees C (5 degrees F)
• FH – Frost Hardy – Hardy to -5 degrees C (23 degrees F)
• HH – Half Hardy – Hardy to zero degrees C (32 degrees F)
• FT – Frost Tender – Not hardy below 5 degrees C (41 degrees F)

The rest of Europe uses the European Garden Flora (EGF) Zones:

• H1 – Hardy to -20 degrees C (-4 degrees F) and below
• H2 – Hardy to -15 to-20 degrees C (5 to -4 degrees F)
• H3 – Hardy to -10 to -15 degrees C (14 to 5 degrees F)
• H4 – Hardy to -5 to -10 degrees C (23 to 14 degrees F)
• H5 – Hardy to zero to 5 degrees C (32 to 40 degrees F)
• G1 – Requires cool greenhouse protection
• G2 – Requires heated greenhouse protection

The US uses a wider zoning system which is detailed in the diagram below:

The GR Allotment: Update

The Gardening Register has had it’s allotment for nearly a year now and we are finally making progress.

We were unable to do much during the winter months due to the bad weather then we struggled to find a vehicle large enough to deliver our supplies.

The first job this year was to have a few tonnes of aggregate delivered which my brother Allan spread across the area planned for the shed and greenhouse. We then had a couple of tonnes of sand delivered which was spread on top of the aggregate.

To finish off this area we were lucky enough to have the help of Allan’s father-in-law to lay the slabs which look great.

Allan also managed to get three raised beds built and ready for planting so our potatoes went in a couple of weeks ago. We are growing Anya, a second early and Maris Piper a late and our Mum’s favourite potatoe, great for chips, roasting and mash.

It’s not too late to order your seed potatoes from Thompson & Morgan. Click here.

Last weekend Allan and I started to erect the greenhouse; a much harder task than is sounds! We will finish the glazing next weekend.

We also planted out some Brussel Sprouts and Petit Pois Peas; our first splash of green on the plot.

A lot of the heavy, landscaping work is complete but we still need to erect the shed lay pathways. We are still to decide what our pathways will be made of as we’re not keen on having too much of the area covered in slabs. We may lay a good thick layer of bark on top of a weed suppressing membrane which will keep the weeds down but will look more natural.

The Pyracantha hedging is looking good and we think it will make a great background to the site. Pyracantha is an evergreen shrub with dark green leaves, spiny branches and bunches of small white flowers in late spring. These are followed by a profusion of yellow, orange or red berries in autumn. It can be grown as a free-standing shrub, against a wall or as a hedge. Click here to buy your own from Crocus.co.uk.

Last update June 2009; more updates to follow.

How to Grow Fragrant Sweet Peas

Sweet Peas are one of the most popular plants for UK gardens. They are annuals so only last the one summer but the display they give is always amazing; lots and lots of colourful, usually fragrant, flowers growing on bright green stems up to 6-7ft in height. Wonderful!

As an added bonus they are very easy to grow; you can sow the seed directly into the ground or bring them on in the greenhouse or you can buy small plants from your local garden centre.

Before sowing, either indoors or outdoors, soak the seed overnight in warm water.

Sowing where they are to Flower

• Choose a sunny, sheltered site and incorporate some well-rotted manure to enrich the soil, particularly if you have sandy soil. If you have heavy soil add some grit to help with drainage.
• Wait until all risk of frost has passed, usually March or April, then just pop the seed in the ground about 2.5cm deep.
• Give them some support and a good watering and you should have flowers by July.

Bringing on in Pots

• Seed can be sown either from late September to November or during January or February.
• Choose deep pots, root trainers or toilet roll tubes to give a long root run.
• For best results use named varieties or cultivars and a good quality, free draining, potting compost.
• Sow three seeds to a 7.5cm (3ins) pot, 1cm deep.
• Place the pots in a cold frame or greenhouse at around 20-25C (68-77F) until after germination which should take 10-20 days.
• Pinch out the growing tip when about 8cm tall to produce bushier plants.
• Harden off gradually before planting in their final position.
• Plant in a rich, free draining soil in a sunny position.

Looking after the Plants

• Keep them well watered during dry spells.
• Apply well-rotted manure occasionally throughout the season.
• Slugs, snails and mice love sweet pea seedlings so take the necessary precautions.
• Pick the flowers or deadhead regularly throughout the summer to ensure plenty of flowers.

If you are interested in growing Sweet Peas and would like to know more why not join the National Sweet Pea Society. Their six-monthly Bulletins often contain articles relating to Sweet Pea plant diseases.

ORDER YOUR SWEET PEA PLANTS AND SEEDS

Camellia sinensis for Making Tea

Camellia sinensis is similar to the more common ornamental varieties but with the benefit of being able to produce tea from the leaves and shoots.

The flowers are white with yellow stamens and are fragrant. The leaves are evergreen; dark green and shiny. If left unpruned it can grow to 10ft or more but they are easily pruned if a smaller shrub is required. Indeed, if you want to produce tea from the leaves it will need pruning every couple of years to keep it to 3-5ft high. See below.

In the UK, unless you live in a sheltered, warm climate, you are best to plant it up in a pot and keep it in a cool greenhouse over winter.

Propagation and Care

The most common way of propagating Camellia sinensis is by seed but cuttings also work well. Sow seeds about an inch deep in a good quality acidic seed compost with added grit or sand. Keep the compost damp and warm.

Pot on when the seedlings are large enough to handle, increasing the pot size and the months and years go on.

When buying a young shrub choose one without a central leader in order to produce a bush not a tree. Ensure that there are shoots growing out from the bottom of the plant to ensure the correct shape.

If planting outside place about 3ft apart in a sunny, sheltered position in an acidic, well drained soil. If they are grown in pots place the pots somewhere where they can get some protection from strong wind and raise the pots off the ground to allow water to drain away. Do not allow them to dry out but ensure that they don’t get waterlogged.

Fertilise regularly during the growing season with a suitable Camellia feed and prune to obtain the size and shape you require.

With the correct care and conditions camellia sinensis can live for 50-100 years.

Growing Camellia sinensis for Tea Making

There are three types of tea which can be made from Camellia sinensis; green tea, black tea and Oolong tea. Each type is produced from differently aged leaves and from using different production methods:

• The young, emerging buds, also known as Tips or Flowery Pekoe, are used for the best quality teas
• The next set of leaves are known as Orange Pekoe
• The oldest and largest leaves nearest the stem are Souchong

When your plants reach 2ft tall cut back to a few inches high to encourage new shoots and increased yield. Do this every 2-3 years to keep the vigour in the plants.

Depending on when the leaves are harvested the strength of the tea will differ; the picking of new shoots in Spring is known as First Flush. The Second Flush is the late Spring / early Summer harvesting and produces a tea with more body. The final harvest takes place in Autumn and is stronger still.

When harvesting the leaves should be gently pinched and twisted to avoid damage.

Tea Production

The production of the tea itself goes through several stages:

• Withering: the leaves/shoots are laid out on trays and left until the leaves loose about half of their moisture and become limp
• Rolling: the leaves are rolled to expose the plant enzymes to oxygen and begin oxidisation; the amount of time allowed for the enzymes to react with oxygen determines the type of tea produced
• Oxidisation: also known as fermentation is a highly complex procedure. The length of time given to oxidisation ranges from 45 minutes to many hours determining the colour and aroma of the final product:
  • For Green Tea this process is missed out and the leaves are not allowed to oxidise. It is a green or yellow colour with a “grassy” flavour
  • Oolong tea is partially oxidised; the exact time depends on personal skill and knowledge
  • Black Tea is fully oxidised and produces a full-bodied brew
  • Firing: firing sends a stream of hot air onto the leaves stopping the oxidisation process.
  • Sorting: once dried the tea is sorted into different grades determined by size. The smallest particles are sold as Dust working up in size through Fannings and Broken Leaf to Whole Leaf

Tritonia Rubrolucens and Hippeastrum (Amaryllis)

Question:

Could you please tell me how best to deal with the foliage of “Tritunia rudrolucens” and “Hipeastrum advenum”now that the flowers have finally died off, leaving climps of foliage 12 to 18 inches high.

Answer:

Do you mean Tritonia rubrolucens and Hippeastrum (Amaryllis)? If so here is how to deal with each of them. If these are not the plants you are enquiring about could you please double check the spellings and get back to me.

Hippeastrum or commonly known as Amaryllis are usually grown as an indoor plant for Christmas; with some care you can get these to re-flower year after year. Here’s how: stop watering and put the plants in their pots into a frost free place for the summer. They will usually die back within a couple of months but if you want to you can cut back the foliage. Keep them dormant until about October at which time you can bring them into a light position indoors and begin feeding and watering. With a bit of luck they will re-flower for Christmas next year.

Tritonia are similar to Crocosmia but are not very hardy so they should only be grown outdoors in mild area. If yours are outdoors and have started to die back cover the top of the plant with a good layer of mulch to allow them to die back and to keep them warm throughout the rest of the winter. If you grew them indoors then I suggest moving the pots into a frost free shed or greenhouse to let them dry out and for the foliage to die down. You can either leave them as they are until next autumn when you can redress the pots, water and bring indoors to flower. Alternatively, once the plants have dried out remove the compost from around the corms and leave the corms to dry out completely; next autumn re-plant the corms in fresh compost, water and bring indoors.

Types of Plants – Half Hardy Perennials

Half Hardy Perennials are similar to hardy perennials in that they will also die down in autumn and grow again the following spring, however, they cannot withstand frost so they require to be protected over the winter or taken into a greenhouse.

Care: Plant Half Hardy Perennials in autumn or spring. The site should be well prepared and lots of well-rotted organic matter incorporated, remove all weeds and ensure the soil is well drained, water well before planting and a good layer of mulch.

Deadhead regularly to encourage flowering throughout the season but keep a few heads in place to produce seeds for the following year. Once flowering is over and the plant starts to die back cut back the dead growth to ground level to keep the site tidy and cover with horticultural fleece or a cloche to protect them over the winter. Alternatively dig up the plant, place in a pot and keep in a greenhouse until the risk of frost is passed.

Half Hardy Perennials in our Garden: Below is a selection of hardy perennials we have in our garden; click the image to Buy your Own:

Fancy Leaf Pelargonium

Fuchsia Dancing Flame

Penstemon heterophyllus Heavenly Blue Springs

When do you sow Phormium Tenax seeds?

Question:

I have acquired some phormium tenax seed pods. When can I sow the seed?

Answer:

Phormium is a hardy perennial so the seed can be sown in late winter/late spring and late summer/autumn.

To help germination put the seed in the fridge for a 6-8 weeks prior to sowing.

Sow in a mixture of well drained compost and keep damp but not too wet as they are prone to damping off.

The seeds will take between 30 and 180 days to germinate and they can be quite difficult so give them some heat either in a greenhouse or a sunny windowsill.

The Gardening Register has an Allotment

Three weeks ago my brother, Allan, was allocated an allotment after being on the waiting list for just a couple of months.

The allotments are called Ashfiled Allotments and are situated round the corner from our mum’s house in Knotty Ash. It is just a half plot but is more than big enough for what Allan and I want to do. Infact it looks very big when covered in weeds!

Last week we went round and measured the site in preparation to producing a plan; oday we went over to do some weeding. We managed to choose one of the hotest days of the year so it was quite hard work.

The half plot we have is on an area which was derelict, the area was cleared out and top soil bought in to make the plots workable. This means that we have quite good soil of a good depth and that there are not too many really established weeds on the plot.

As part of the regeneration the committee planted a hedge of Pyracantha along the line of the newly erected fencing; this is to provide a physical barrier to the outside and to make the fence look a little better. Our first job was to remove as many weeds as possible from the area around the Pyracantha and lay a weed suppressing membrane. Then we put a weedkiller down on about a third of the plot and covered it with heavy duty tarpaulins; these will hopefully help the weeds die off and keep new weeds from coming up before we have a chance to go onto the next phase.

Phase II is to lay bases for a shed, a greenhouse, water butts, compost heaps and the paths around the area. Following this we will go on to prepare the remaining area and build raised beds surrounded by gravel paths. Our aim is to produce a low maintenance plot which is easily managed. The addition of an irrigation system driven from our water butts will help this.

It is going to be a lot of hard work initially but hopefully not too bad for the forthcoming years.

You can see from the photographs how bad it looks now and I’ll keep posting new photos at each milestone so you can see the improvement.

Questions for October 2007

Question:

Please could you tell me whether the fuchsia “Shadow Dancer” is hardy?

Answer:

Your Fuchsia “Shadow Dancer” has a hardiness rating of H3 which means that you need to give it some protection from frost. Either move it into an unheated greenhouse or cover with horticultural fleece when frost is expected.

Question:

I have bought several small cuttings today of Buxus golden dream how big can this grow in height and spread and does it grow all year round should I water and feed it in winter thank you for any advice you can give.

Answer:

Buxus ‘Golden Dream’ is a compact, evergreen shrub with dense foliage. Its colour is most pronounced in full sun, but will it will grow in either full sun or partial shade. This plant can be used for anything from a low growing hedge to a nice, neat, accent in any garden. As with most all boxwoods, it prefers slightly cooler, moist soils with good drainage. A good top dressing of mulch will do wonders to keep the soil conditions favourable. Its height and spread is 3-4 ft and it grows at a moderate rate. Although this is a hardy shrub if the cuttings are particularly small I would keep them in their pots and protect them over this winter, planting them out once the risk of frost has passed next spring. They shouldn’t need any feeding this winter but make sure they don’t dry out. When you plant them out give then a good mulch of well rotted manure.

Questions for September 2007

Question:

Could you let me know how to prune Iceland Poppies?

Answer:

Iceland Poppies are Biennials which means that they flower the year after they are sown and then die. Therefore, they do not require pruning. Once they are past their best pull them up. They often seed themselves so you may get flowers year after year.

Question:

I have a strawberry barrel.  Can I pot on the runners which appear to have small roots and do I leave them attached to the main plant until established?

Answer:

Yes you can pot on the strawberry runners as long as they have rooted. Just detach from the mother plant and put in small pots with a good quality potting compost. Give them a good watering to get them going. They should be OK outside in a sheltered spot but if you have a cold greenhouse that would be good too.

Question:

I know this is probably a stupid question but I am a beginner gardener I was wondering whether I could plant a Christmas tree in the garden that I have bought from a garden shop and will it still grow many thanks sorry for the silly question

Answer:

Good afternoon, thank you for your email. It is not a silly question really as it does depend on what type of Xmas tree you have. Although the majority of Christmas trees are sold with a cut trunk but some are sold in pots with their roots intact. Although they tend to be more expensive, they do last a lot longer and have the added advantage of being able to be planted out in the garden. Follow these guidelines for the best chance of success:

• If it has been kept indoors it will need to get used to the cold weather before planting it out
• When you are ready to plant it out stand it in a bucket of water, still in its pot, until it’s thoroughly wet It will grow very big so choose its final position carefully
• Dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot and the same depth as the pot
• Add some organic matter into the bottom of the hole e.g. well rotted manure or good quality compost If you’re planting in the spring sprinkle in some general fertilizer too
• Remove the plant from its pot
• If it is pot-bound (the roots are tightly packed in the pot) tease out a few of the biggest roots
• Stand the plant in the hole with its best side facing the direction from which you’ll normally view it
• Check that the top of the rootball is level with the surrounding soil, and that the plant is standing upright
• Mix more organic matter with the excavated soil and fill in around the rootball
• Firm gently with your foot
• Water thoroughly
• Spread an layer of mulch
• Keep well watered for the first few weeks regardless as to whether it rains or not

Whats on at the RHS?

Take a look below at what’s on at the RHS gardens around the UK this April. Click on the banner above to visit their website:

RHS GARDEN HARLOW CARR, YORKSHIRE

Easter Fun, Fri 10 – Mon 13 April – Join in the themed activities, with children’s games and crafts and an Easter quiz. On Sun 12 join the Easter Bunny on an Easter trail around the garden!

Garden Explorers Event – Herb Towers, Fri 17 April – Join RHS Garden Explorers to enjoy this and other exclusive events. Plant up and decorate your own pots, take home and add herbs to your food for tasty meals!

Spring Plant Fair, Sun 3 May – Not-to-be-missed opportunity to stock up on plants! In conjunction with Plant Heritage. Planting advice also available.

RHS GARDEN HYDE HALL, ESSEX

Easter Art Exhibition – Hop, Stock & Bent by Francoise Sergy, Sat 4 – Sun 19 April – This photography exhibition tells the stories of five common plants: hops, scented stocks, bent grasses, the spindle tree and London plane tree.

Children’s Easter Holiday Events – During Easter we have two children’s events: Small Jungle Creation on Wed 8 April and Seed Sowing on Wed 15 April.

Spring Plant Fair – The next plant fair is on Sat 25 April – pop along and bag yourself a plant or two!

RHS GARDEN ROSEMOOR, DEVON

‘Inspiration from the Wildside’ Exhibition, Fri 1 – Mon 4 May – Gardening team Ros and Keith Wiley publicise their new garden, where natural landscapes are the inspiration for planting and painting. Keith will give a talk on Fri 1 May. Normal Garden entry applies to the exhibition. Tickets for the talk: £14 (RHS Members: £8). To book: 01805 626800.

Easter Egg Trail, Sat 11 & Sun 12 April – Follow the clues around the garden to win some chocolately treasure!

RHS National Rhododendron Show, Sat 25 & Sun 26 April – The RHS National Rhododendron Show returns for a third year and promises to be more magnificent than ever!

RHS GARDEN WISLEY, SURREY

Auricular Spectacular, Sat 4 – Sun 5 April – See displays by Chelsea medal winners and choose from over 100 varieties to buy. Talks by leading experts at 11am and 3pm.

Easter Willow Weaving for Families, – Mon 6 – Thur 9 and Tue 14 – Fri 17 April – Join willow weaving artist Tom Hare as he creates beautiful new willow sculptures for the garden.

Easter Treasure Hunt, Fri 10 – Mon 13 April – Take up our Treasure Hunt challenge and journey around the garden to solve the clues. Normal garden opening times apply.

Meet Alan Titchmarsh, Thur 16 April – Join Alan for an evening in the Plant Centre and question Alan before he signs copies of his new guides ‘How to Garden’. Tickets: £3 per person. To book click above or call 01483 211113 and select Plant Centre.

MORE FROM THE RHS

Education Events at RHS Garden Wisley

Introduction to Greenhouse Gardening, Sat 4 April – How greenhouse structures work, how to equip them and raise plants for successful crops and displays.

Next Steps in the Greenhouse, Fri 24 April – This course covers heating and cooling, growing fruits, salad crops, raising flowering pot plants and managing pests and diseases.

Horticultural Practical Day, RHS Advanced Certificate (level 3), Sat 25 April – Ray Broughton from Sparsholt College will teach technical aspects of practical horticulture, covering propagation of glasshouse plants, planting in rows, sowing seeds and more.

Beyond Basics, Sun 26 April – A one-day photographic workshop for the more experienced digital user, looking at advanced features and how to develop an efficient image processing workflow.

For more information about all Learn to Garden short courses and workshops held at RHS Wisley visit the website or contact the garden for a brochure.

New Learning Centre at Harlow Carr - Work has started on this exciting carbon-neutral building, which aims to be an exemplar of sustainable development, eventually attracting over 10,000 school children a year.

Support the Harlow Carr Learning Centre – The RHS is making a huge leap forward in education facilities and how green we can be. In spring 2010 we will open the doors to the Harlow Carr Learning Centre.

Take Hardwood Cuttings

Now is the time to take hardwood cuttings. Hardwood cuttings should be successful from most deciduous trees and shrubs, try buddleja, forsythia, philadelphus, ribes and roses. The best time to take the cuttings is during early and mid winter but don’t take them if frost is forecast. Take a good look at your chosen tree or shrub and select a branch/shoot which is about pencil thick and is fully mature. Don’t select anything which looks diseased or has any signs of pests. Remove the soft tips and cut to about 20cm in length. Trim the top just above a bud using a sloping cut, cut the bottom just below a bud using a straight cut. If you want you can dip the bottom of the cutting into hormone rooting compound but it is not always necessary for it to take successfully. The cuttings can be bought on either in large pots left in a cold frame or greenhouse, or direct into a well drained, sheltered spot in the garden. Push the cuttings into the soil leaving about a third above the soil level. The important thing is not to let the cuttings dry out. Leave the cuttings until next Autumn when they should be ready to plant out.

Propagating Plants for your Garden

Buying new plants for your garden is one of life’s little pleasures and can be extremely satisfying but often expensive. Equally as satisfying and an awfully lot cheaper is propagating your own plants.

Softwood Cuttings

These cuttings are taken from this year’s young growth between April and June. Choose a young side shoot and cut below a node about 5-10cm from the tip. Remove the bottom leaves and immerse in a fungicide solution to avoid fungal infections and dip the base in rooting powder. Place a few cuttings in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost and place the pot in a heated greenhouse or propagator or on a windowsill enclosed in a polythene bag. Keep the compost moist. Once you begin to see new growth, pot individually into 10cm pots. Before planting out in the garden get them used to cooler temperatures by placing them outside during the day or move to a cool greenhouse.

Semi-ripe Cutting

These cuttings are taken from this year’s ripe growth between June and August. The base of the shoot should have started to turn brown. Cut just below a node about 10-15cm from the tip or pull the shoot off with some of the woody tissue (heel) attached. Remove the bottom leaves and immerse in a fungicide solution to avoid fungal infections and dip the base in rooting powder. Place a few cuttings in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost and place the pot in a heated greenhouse or propagator or on a windowsill enclosed in a polythene bag. Keep the compost moist. Once you begin to see new growth, pot individually into 10cm pots. Before planting out in the garden get them used to cooler temperatures by placing them outside during the day or move to a cool greenhouse.

Hardwood Cuttings

These cuttings are taken from this year’s woody growth between September and November. Cut a length just below and above a node about 15-30cm long. Remove the leaves and dip the base in rooting powder. Place a few in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost and place the pot in a cold frame or in the ground in an open, sheltered, sunny position. Ensure the soil is well drained. The cuttings should be rooted by the following Autumn.

Root Cuttings

These cutting should be taken between September and November. Expose the roots of shrubs or lift herbaceous plants and select a young root near the crown of the plant. Cut a length 5cm long with a straight cut at the top and a diagonal cut at the base. Immerse in fungicide and insert in a pot of compost so the top is level with the top of the compost. Cover with 0.5cm compost. Fine roots should be laid on the top of the compost and covered lightly. Place in a cold greenhouse or cold frame and keep the compost moist. The cuttings should have rooted by the following spring when they can be potted on.

Leaf Cuttings

There are three methods of taking leaf cuttings. The first involves taking a whole leaf including the stalk (petiole). Dip the stalk in tooting powder and insert in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost so the stalk is buried. Place in a propagator at 18-21 degrees C or enclose in a polythene bag and stand on a warm windowsill. When growth appears at the base of the leaf lift and pot on. The second method is to take a whole leaf and cut halfway through the main vein on the back of the leaf. Place the leaf, cut side down, on the top of the compost. Place grit on top of the leaf to keep it in contact with the compost. Place in a propagator at 18-21 degrees C or enclose in a polythene bag and stand on a warm windowsill. New growth will appear at the cuts. The third method is mainly used on long leaves. Cut the leaf into 5cm sections and dip the bottom edge in rooting powder. Insert the leaf vertically into the compost to about half it’s length. Place in a propagator at 18-21 degrees C or enclose in a polythene bag and stand on a warm windowsill. New growth will form at the base.

Division

Division involves dividing a plant into two or more plants and should be carried out on most perennials every 3-5 years to maintain their vigor. Divide in late autumn or early spring. Lift the plant taking care not to damage the roots and shake off the soil. Using a knife or spade cut the plant into three or four similar sized pieces and plant out each new section as soon as possible, adding compost and a general fertiliser.

Layering

Layering works well on woody plants and involves growing a new plant while it is still attached to the parent plant. It is best carried out between late spring and autumn. Find a stem which is flexible enough to bend to the ground. Make a cut about 5cm long through a node and apply rooting powder. Where the node touches the ground dig a small hole in the soil and add compost. Bury the stem 10cm deep at the node and peg down to secure. Tie the end of the stem to a support. Roots should develop within 18 months at which point it can be removed from the parent plant and planted in its own spot.

Seeds

There are several advantages and disadvantage to propagating by seed.

• Advantages: Large volume of seeds readily available, Cheap, Simple, Vast choice of varieties, Can be stored for a length of time
• Disadvantages: Not all seeds come true to type, Some plants have lost the ability to produce seed, Some plants take a long time to mature and flower

Most people will buy their seeds from a garden centre or specialist seeds man and just follow the directions on the packet. However it is very easy to collect seed from your own garden and also completely free. Some plants will seed themselves, usually where you don’t want them. Once they have seeded just thin them out and/or transplant to another part of your garden. You could also pot them on and give them to friends and family. If you do use your own seed you must remember that most do not come true to type so will not necessarily resemble the plant they came from. You must collect the seed when it is ripe; store pods in a warm, dry place until they split. Once you have the seed label them and keep in a dry, dark, well ventilated area at between 1 and 5 degrees C.

Seeds have six requirement in order to germinate:

1. Seeds have little water which is why they stay dormant for so long
2. The temperature required to germinate vary by seed but generally heat helps
3. Oxygen is required for respiration Food Food is supplied within the seed. If planted too deeply the food with be exhausted before it is able to photosynthesise
4. Some seeds require light to germinate
5. Some seeds have chemical inhibitors which need to diminish before germination is possible
6. Some seeds are difficult to germinate and a number of techniques have been developed to overcome these difficulties:
   1. Soaking seed in warm water for 12-24 hours will soften the coating and help it absorb water and remove chemical inhibitors
   2. Scarification: Nick large seeds with a knife or rub smaller seeds with sandpaper. This weakens the coating and allows water to enter
   3. Stratification: Some seeds require a period of cold before they can germinate. Place the seeds in a 50:50 mixture of moist sand and compost and place in the fridge for 4-12 weeks

Hardy Annuals can be sown outside in March or April when the soil has started to warm up. Biennials and Perennials can be sown later in May or June. Sow directly where you want them to flower/fruit or sow in seedbeds and transplant later. The soil should be raked to break up the soil and to remove any stones. Firm the soil with the back of the rake and apply a general fertiliser. If the area is dry, water well and allow to drain. This should be carried out 3-4 weeks in advance of sowing to allow weeds germinate. Weed the area well then sow the seed thinly in drills 5-15mm deep. Cover lightly with soil. Ensure the soil is kept moist and weed free. When the seedlings appear thin them out to around 10cm apart, carry out a final thinning to 15-20cm depending on the size of the final plant.

Other seeds can be sown in a greenhouse, a propagator or on a window sill. Ideally use a compost formulated specifically for growing seed. Fill a seed tray to the top with compost and gently firm, wet the compost and allow to dry. Scatter the seed thinly on the surface of the compost and cover lightly with compost. Cover with a sheet of glass or place in a propagator at a temperature of 18-21 degrees C. Do not allow the compost to dry out. Once the seedlings begin to show remove the cover/glass and move to where they can get maximum light but not in direct sunlight. When the seedlings develop their first proper leaves prick them out into individual pots being careful not to damage the roots. Never handle seedlings by their stems.

If the seeds are to go outside they need should be first moved to a closed cold frame to get them used to the change in temperature. After a few days they can be left in an open cold frame or stood outside during the day. They can be planted out into well prepared ground once all risk of frost has passed.

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