13 Steps to Building a Garden Pond

There are several points you need to consider before building your pond: Should it be formal or informal, natural or modern? Do you want to keep fish, grow plants or attract wildlife? Are there children to keep safe?

Once you have answered these questions you need to decide where you want to site the pond or water feature bearing in mind the following:  A pond should be kept away from big trees and shrubs so ensure their roots don’t puncture the lining and to avoid leaves falling into the water. If you want to keep fish you need to have a pretty deep pond to stop it freezing over the winter. The smallest you should build a pond is 60cm (2ft) deep and 1 x 1.5m (3 x 5ft) across; however, the bigger the better.

Now you can begin building:

1. The easiest way to build a pond is to use a butyl rubber or plastic sheet. To work out how much to buy:
   • • • • Dig your pond to the size and shape required then measure the length, width and the deepest point
         • Multiply the depth by two and add to the length then again to the width
         • Add 50cm (20in) for overlap on both the length and the width
         • This is the size of sheet you need
2. When digging the pond ensure that the bottom is firm and flat and free from stones. At least part of it needs to be 60cm (2ft) deep for fish and deep-water plants the rest can be 45cm (18ins) deep
3. Build in some shelves around the sides 15cm (6ins) wide and 20cm (8ins) below the surface
4. Slope one side to allow wildlife to escape
5. Ensure that all pond sides are level by using a spirit level, don’t use your eye
6. Spread 2.cm (1in) of soft sand over the base, shelves and slopes then cover with pond underlay followed by the liner
7. Add a layer of poor garden or aquatic soil to the bottom of the hole for planing deep aquatics
8. Start filling the pond from a hose or water butt
9. Once full, trim the liner to 30cm (1ft) overlap
10. Cover the overlap with paving stones or turf ensuring that the liner is not exposed to the sun as it will rot
11. If possible add a bucket of water from a healthy, established pond to help speed up the colonization process
12. Leave for about a week before planting and six weeks before introducing fish
13. If you wish to attract wildlife to your garden then don’t add fish as they tend to eat the insect larvae

Looking after your Pond

Spring: most ponds will turn green in spring but it will clear itself in a few weeks. However, new ponds could remain green for up to twelve months. Pull out blanketweed and leave on the side for a day or so to allow creatures to escape back into the pond. Remove duckweed with a small fishing net.

Summer: Feed fish between May and September. Pull out oxygenators if they threaten to take over the entire pond.

Autumn: Remove excess silt from the bottom of the pond leaving about 1 inch to allow plants to root. Remove floating plants once the die, cut down marginals and pull out dead lily leaves. Keep autumn leaves out of the pond by covering with a net.

Winter: If you keep fish place a plastic ball on the surface to avoid the pond freezing over totally. If you don’t keep fish there is no winter maintenance required.

For more information on Aquatic Gardening visit the following articles: Aquatic Gardening and Pond Plants

Aquatic Gardening

There are several points you need to consider before building your pond or water feature. Should it be formal or informal, natural or modern? Do you want to keep fish, grow plants or attract wildlife? Are there children to keep safe?

Once you have answered these questions you need to decide where you want to site the pond or water feature. A pond should be kept away from big trees and shrubs so ensure their roots don’t puncture the lining. If you want to keep fish you need to have a pretty deep pond to stop it freezing over the winter. The smallest you should build a pond is 60cm (2ft) deep and 1 x 1.5m (3 x 5ft) across. However, the bigger the better.

If childrens’ safety is and issue or you prefer not to have to maintain a pond then a water feature is an excellent compromise. You could build a wall fountain or a pebble pool which can be sited in sun or shade near to a power supply. If you do not have external power then a wide plant container or half a barrel, without drainage holes, is ideal. You can still grow small aquatic plants or use floating oxygenators such as water hyacinth. You will need to protect them during winter or empty the container and start again in the spring.

For more about aquatic gardening visit these articles: Build a Garden Pond and Pond Plants

Questions for April 2008

Question

I am not sure if you can help but I am looking to buy some coprosma evening glow or/and coprosma fire burst so far I have had little luck I have tried googling it but very poor results none of my local garden centres stock it I bought some last year from a local market and would like to get more I really want a fairly well established rather than a small gutting that needs to be grown on do you know of any online nurseries that would sell this also regards dogwood I really like the look of this but again not been able to find it in my garden centres does this come in the form of a shrub or bush has its something I am not familiar with thanks for any help you can provide

Answer

I have to admit to not knowing about Coprosma but I have managed to find a company who sell a few varieties. Click on this link:  http://www.burncoose.co.uk/site/plants.cfm?pn_id=176. There are several types of Dogwood (Cornus) so I have added a link to a few at Crocus for you to look at.

Question

We have a well established pear tree in our garden. The problem is that is has grown lopsided / horizontally right across the garden, so much so that it is obstructing the garden path. I would like to keep the tree but would like some advice on how to prune it to encourage it to grow upwards rather than outwards.

Answer

It is possible to do what you are asking but it will need to be done in stages as to reduce the stress to the tree. I think the best thing for you to do is to follow RHS advice on this matter so I have included a link below on Apple and pear tree renovation: http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles1101/fruit_tree.asp

Question

I have what seems to be three different type of spotted laurels one is dark green in colour the other light green with what seems like the beginning of possibly some flowers the other is the same colour light green the first two were planted around a month ago and around 2 3 ft the last one was planted last summer and has hardly grown at all I did read for these to produce flowers you need a male and female like a holly and I thought they were very quick growers I have seen some has high has well over 20foot round where I live they seem to get bigger every year mine are planted in full sun in a good quality compost any information on this plant would be welcomed thank you. I bought a shrub called a beauty berry in October last year it had a abundance of purple berries which have gradually dropped of I believe it is suppose to have pink flowers in summer but at moment I have just a bare shrub is this normal

Answer

Regarding your laurels; do you know which variety you have? I have detailed three of the more common ones below and as you can see their sizes and flowering requirements do vary. If you can find the actual varieties I can do more research for you.

• Aucuba Japonica Crotonifolia. Evergreen, bushy, dense shrub with stout, green shoots. Large glossy, dark green leaves are heavily mottled yellow. Grows in sun or shade and well drained soil. Height 1.7m Spread 1.7m. Male.
• Aucuba Japonica Rozannie. Very handsome shrub which has large, toothed and leathery green leaves. This all green form is self pollinating and produces large red fruits in winter. Grows in any situation and any soil to about 1m. Male.
• Aucuba Japonica Variegata. Evergreen, bushy, dense shrub grown for its yellow spotted leathery leaves. Height 7 ft. Spread 7 ft. requires any reasonable soil. Will thrive in sun or shade. Plant with crotonifolia for berries. Can be kept as a colourful hedge or as a specimen plant. Female. As regards your Beauty Berry (Callicarpa bodinieri var. giraldii Profusion). The lovely purple berries will gradually drop off, or get eaten by the birds, before the end of the winter which is normal. It will remain bare until it begins to produce its leaves then small pink flowers around July.

Question

I have got some branches on our pear tree where the buds are not opening – should I cut them back or just leave it?

Answer

If the tree is the right size and shape for you then I’d leave it. However, you may want to read the RHS article below for information on how to prune your tree should you wish. http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles1101/fruit_tree.asp

Question

Now that the buds are out on the roses does this mean that I can cut them with an outward facing slope away from a bud at a height of 6 inches from the base now? Can I cut the honeysuckle back to 6 inches as well now?

Answer

I would wait until all risk of frost has passed because if you get a hard frost it can cause the tips of shrubs to die back. This die-back can be trimmed off but if the shrub is at its lowest height you will have nothing left to trim away. You should be OK to do it at the middle of April. You will still get a good display so don’t worry, you’ll be surprised how quickly they will grow from May onwards. You method sounds good but don’t forget to give them a little feed of fertilizer. You can buy one specifically for roses or you can use blood, fish and bone meal which can be used on all your plants. A mulch of well rotted manure around the base will also be good to keep down weeds and help improve the structure of the soil.

Question

Leaves on the hyacinth are going yellow. Can I cut them to the base; remove bulbs from the indoor pot and plant in the garden now? Any thoughts as to where best and how i.e. depth etc to plant them?

Answer

Yes you can cut them back and plant them out in the garden. Here’s a link to my Bulbs page which should help you when planting but the general rule is three times its own depth in a sunny position. http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/bulbs.htm

Question

I have recently bought some of the pretty flowering heathers you see at this time of year but know little about them I did hear that they need to be planted I the special compost you use for azaleas and rhododendrons also how long do they flower for I am told the ones you see in the garden centres are all forced has I believe they do not flower until early summer do I prune them when they finish flowering and when should I feed them thank you for any advice you can provide

Answer

There are two types of heather so I’ll give you the details for both. The first type is the “Erica” variety. These heathers do prefer acid soil but they will tolerate slightly alkaline soil, either way it needs to be well-drained and placed in a sunny spot. If you don’t know how acidic your soil is then it would be best to plant into pots using Ericaceous compost although it’s not essential. This type of heather flowers January to March and should be trimmed after flowering with shears or secateurs to remove the dead flowers and encourage bushy growth. The second type is “Calluna”. They like full sun and well-drained, humus-rich, acid soil or ericaceous compost. They flower July to November. In March or April cut back the flowered shoots to within 2.5cm (1in) of the old growth.

Question

My husband would like to know are than any certain types of methods used to make top soil more firm? He’s clearing out some land and the soil is too soft to hold weight.

Answer

I’m not entirely certain I understand exactly what the problem is but I think it is one of the following. The top soil may be too “soft” meaning it is not compacted enough. If this is the case then you should be able to carefully tread down the surface by slowly walking around until it is firm. However, the problem may be that the soil is too sandy, meaning that it has no substance and keeps falling apart. The added problem here is that it will also be very poor making it difficult to grow anything. If this is the case then you need to improve the structure by adding lots and lots of well rotted organic matter such as horse or cow manure. This can be bought in bulk or, if you live near a farm or stables, you may get it for free if you agree to collect it. If you have to go this route then it will take some time for the soil to change and become more substantial, perhaps as long as a year. To avoid weeds taking hold while you’re waiting you could grow some green manure which will subsequently be incorporated into the soil, again adding goodness. Here is an article which might help. http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/soil.htm#Green_manures0

Questions for August 2007

Question:

I bought a lavender tree lavandula dentata I planted about 6weeks ago it does say its hare had only the odd night of frost but don t expose to prolonged frost we have had only the odd night of frost since I bought it I have noticed today there are one or two brown spikes on it and the rest seem to be drooping I have given it a feed of miracle grow rose and shrub food I am been unduly concerned will it perk up when the weather gets warmer and is there any thing I can specifically do to help it.

Answer:

Unfortunately Lavandula dentate (French Lavender) is not hardy in the UK so should be kept indoors during the winter. You could try bringing it in now, keeping it warm for the next few weeks to see if it perks up. Don’t cut off the brown spikes just yet. If you still have some green growth by the end of April then prune it back before placing outdoors for the summer. Be careful not to prune into any old or brown woody parts of the plant as it will never re-grow from these areas.

Question:

I would like to know if I could put my magnolia in a container as I am moving house and the garden is all slabs, it is around 2 to 3 years old and around 4 foot.

Answer:

My mum has successfully grown her magnolia in a pot for years and it always looks good. I assume it is in the ground at the moment so you will have to carefully lift it ensuring you don’t damage the roots. Make sure it doesn’t dry out before placing it in as large a pot as possible. Put lots of crocks in the bottom to help drainage and add a slow release fertilizer to the soil around the plant. Each year top off the plant with new compost and / or manure to keep the soil well fed. You may find it goes into shock this year but it should be OK by next year’s flowering season. You will find that the plant won’t grow as big as it would if it was in the ground and it may not live as long either.

Question:

I currently live in West Sussex and do hope that you can give me some advice on the Meyers lemon tree that I purchased last year. You see I am new to the way of gardening here in England, as I spent most of my gardening life in the tropical area of South Africa where it never gets really cold. As I have already mentioned I purchased a lemon tree, which I put into a huge pot on my patio, but now I see that during the course of winter it has lost all its leaves and a lot of the tips of the branches have gone brown. I did not place it indoors, as I do not have the strength to be lugging it around – nor did I cover it with anything. My question is do I throw the tree away or do you think it will pick up again in spring.

Answer:

Unfortunately citrus plants will not survive outside during an English winter. However, having said that, if you have not had a hard frost and it’s in a sheltered position then you may get away with it. I wouldn’t give up on it just yet. Buy some horticultural fleece (available from garden centres or the larger DIY stores, cover it for the rest of the winter and make sure it doesn’t get too wet. If it’s survived you should see new leaves appearing when the weather warms up during April/May.

Question:

Can you please tell me any plants besides Aubrietia that you can plant in the top of a walled raised bed to hang over or to plant vertically in the wall?

Answer:

Please find below some suggestions. Most of these are alpines and do require a well drained soil. Cerastium (Snow-in-summer) – colour: white Iberis (Candytuft) – colour: white Linaria (Toadflax) – colour: various – there is an upright version of this too Saponaria (Soapwort) – colour: pink. You could also consider planting a nice coloured, small leaved ivy to trail down and plant some low growing alpines, such as Thrift to add some height. If you don’t mind a bit of work you could consider planting trailing geraniums or other colourful annuals each year.

Question:

Our neighbours have just built an extension, the side wall of which overlooks our back garden. Unfortunately, a variety of bricks have been used and they haven’t been spaced out very well with the result that the wall overlooking our back garden is unsightly and also oppressive. We would like a fast growing plant which would hide the wall. The wall goes up to 310 cm in height. Please could you advise us as to what would be the best plant to hide this wall and which would grow quickly?

Answer:

My ideal would be ivy. There are lots of different varieties giving you a wide selection of leaf sizes and colours which are evergreen. Once established it is extremely fast growing and also has the benefit of being able to climb without support and will grow in any situation. The other is the Montana range of Clematis which again is very fast growing and has the extra benefit of fragrant flowers in the spring. However you will need to erect some sort of support structure such as trellis or wires before planting. A sunny site will give the best results. Which ever plant you choose make sure you don’t plant it too close to the wall as it won’t be able to get as much water as it needs. If you go to my Plant your Garden page http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/planting.htm.  You will see an advert from Crocus. If you click the Climbers box you will be able to enter some information about the location and features required and receive a number of suggestions back.

Question:

I’ve got a question about holly trees that you might be able to answer for me…! As you know – you need male and female holly for the female plant to produce berries, but do the male and female plant need to be the same variety?? I have a silver queen (male) and a golden king (female) – will I get berries from this??

Answer:

I have double checked and you only need to have one male holly, of any variety, to pollinate several female plants of any variety. Therefore the two you have will do fine; the female plant will produce the berries, not the male. If you’d like more berries you could buy another female variety.

Question:

I am the General Manager of a psychiatric unit in London. We have recently built a secure steel balcony to provide additional outdoor space to one of our first floor wards. The construction is a ‘metal cage’ with a very raw look to it and I would appreciate it if you could give me some ideas on the types of plants we would use to brighten up the area. The balcony is south facing and I would preferably like ones that are easy to manage and stay evergreen so there is colour all year round. Have you any suggestions. The main problem is that for safety reasons we can not use climbing plants as patients could use these to climb up and fall, we can not use plants that have poisonous leaves or berries as patients could eat these and we are unable to use plants that have sharp edges as patients may use these to self harm or ones that attract bees in case of allergic reaction to possible bee stings. In addition, we would require the plants to be in pots that are too heavy for a patient to lift in case they throw them. As you can see from a non-gardeners point of view I am struggling to find the appropriate plants and your assistance and advice would be very welcome.

Answer:

I’ve come up with some ideas and attach an outline of a plan which may be of interest. My first thought was to fit a bench across the left-hand 2.4m section. This could be attached to the balcony and would allow seating for a few people. I have also left room for quite a large table and six chairs. Your idea of galvanized containers screwed into the patio seems a good idea and I’ve found a couple of sites which may be able to provide them. and http://shop.theurbangarden.co.uk/product_select.asp?prtID=49&d=planters. The alternative is to have a raised bed built into the corner which is also attached to the balcony as per my plan. You could have it built as one big “box” or if you had six separate boxes they could be tiered so that the outermost ones are lower than the top ones. This would provide more interest and allow for plants to cascade the corners of each “box”. As for plants. My initial thought is to use Herbs. These are usually soft and are, of course, edible. For added interest I thought a few grasses. I have found a few examples of my thoughts on Crocus.co.uk and have attached a link to their page so you can find out a little more about them. Fennel (especially Bronze which is a lovely colour) these grow to about 1.8m but not very wide so you could fit in quite a few. They are light and move with the wind giving a feeling of movement. I find it best to snip off the flowers to avoid them going to seed and ruining the look. Also, they will die down for the winter but this also means it doesn’t take over. To compliment the colour and movement of the Fennel I thought a few soft grasses would be nice. They tend to give great autumn colour and if left over the winter they provide structure and look nice when frosted. They will have to be cut back to allow the new growth through but it’s not a hard job. Here are a couple of examples. For an evergreen look I think Rosemary would be good. They can grown quite big so may need keeping in check but they are very hardy and don’t require much maintenance. They are usually a rich dark green with lavender/blue flowers during the summer. To compliment the rosemary how about Lavender. There are lots of varieties around but you need to have a good hardy one to see you through the winters. To break-up the front of the containers/bed I suggest planting a few “lesser” periwinkles. These come in white, lilac or purple in lots of different shades. The leaf colours also differ so you could find one you like. The “greater” periwinkles have bigger flowers and grow too big and fast for containers. Just tuck them into the corners of each “box” and let them hang down. They do spread so you may need to pull them up to avoid them taking over the whole container. Finally, I thought the little space near the entrance could do with something. Mint is a great herb but extremely invasive so it is ideal in its own container. There are lots available, such as pineapple mint and apple mint so again you should find some you like. They will die down for the winter but will come back each spring. Regardless of the containers you use you will have to ensure that there is adequate drainage in the bottom. Punch some holes in the base of the containers and lift them slightly off the floor. To help the drainage and keep the weight down fill the bottom of the containers with a good layer of polystyrene which you get in packaging. Use good quality compost and add some vermiculite which will also help keep the weight down but will also aid drainage. I would also add a slow release fertilizer and some water-retaining granules. You won’t be able to use hard mulch so I would top off the planting with a good layer of well-rotted manure. This will help retain moisture, keep weeds down and add goodness to the soil. Each autumn you should add another layer.

Plant of the Month for June

Our Plant of the Month Papaver orientale or Oriental Poppy produces delicate flowers from May to July above bristly, grey-green leaves. The flower colours vary from white, through pink to red.

They are a fast-growing plant and easy to grow, the pale papery flowers contrast especially well with purple foliage plants such as Heuchera.

 

Try it alongside grasses or late summer-flowering perennials, such as dahlias, which will provide interest when the plant has died back.

They take little care just cut back to ground level after flowering and lift and divide large clumps in autumn.

They prefer full sun and moist, well-drained soil and are fully hardy. If you don’t want them to take over the whole border, dead head before the plant sets seed.

 

BUY NOW!

 

Here are a selection of Oriental Poppies from Crocus.co.uk

click here to find out more or to go shopping

 

Papaver orientale ‘Karine’	Papaver orientale ‘Beauty of Livermere’	Papaver orientale ‘Patty’s Plum’	Papaver orientale ‘Perry’s White’

Plant of the Month for May

Dicentra spectabilis or Bleeding Heart is one of the first plants to emerge in late spring and has arching sprays of dainty, rose-pink, heart-shaped flowers above fern-like, fresh green leaves.

It is extremely easy to grow and as long as the ground is moist it will thrive in full sun or partial shade and it looks great planted in groups towards the front of a shady border or as part of a cottage garden scheme.

Dicentras are happy in any good garden soil that is fertile but not too heavy. Enrich the soil with plenty of leaf mould before planting and apply a mulch in autumn too. A light fertilising in March will also help.

Clumps of dicentra remain compact for many years and do not need dividing however they have brittle roots and so do not like disturbance – instead, try taking root cuttings in spring.

BUY NOW!

Here are a selection of Dicentra from Crocus.co.uk – click here to find out more or to go shopping

Dicentra spectabilis	Dicentra spectabilis ‘Alba’	Dicentra ‘Bacchanal’	Dicentra formosa ‘Aurora’	Dicentra ‘King of Hearts’

Whats on at the RHS?

Take a look below at what’s on at the RHS gardens around the UK this April. Click on the banner above to visit their website:

RHS GARDEN HARLOW CARR, YORKSHIRE

Easter Fun, Fri 10 – Mon 13 April – Join in the themed activities, with children’s games and crafts and an Easter quiz. On Sun 12 join the Easter Bunny on an Easter trail around the garden!

Garden Explorers Event – Herb Towers, Fri 17 April – Join RHS Garden Explorers to enjoy this and other exclusive events. Plant up and decorate your own pots, take home and add herbs to your food for tasty meals!

Spring Plant Fair, Sun 3 May – Not-to-be-missed opportunity to stock up on plants! In conjunction with Plant Heritage. Planting advice also available.

RHS GARDEN HYDE HALL, ESSEX

Easter Art Exhibition – Hop, Stock & Bent by Francoise Sergy, Sat 4 – Sun 19 April – This photography exhibition tells the stories of five common plants: hops, scented stocks, bent grasses, the spindle tree and London plane tree.

Children’s Easter Holiday Events – During Easter we have two children’s events: Small Jungle Creation on Wed 8 April and Seed Sowing on Wed 15 April.

Spring Plant Fair – The next plant fair is on Sat 25 April – pop along and bag yourself a plant or two!

RHS GARDEN ROSEMOOR, DEVON

‘Inspiration from the Wildside’ Exhibition, Fri 1 – Mon 4 May – Gardening team Ros and Keith Wiley publicise their new garden, where natural landscapes are the inspiration for planting and painting. Keith will give a talk on Fri 1 May. Normal Garden entry applies to the exhibition. Tickets for the talk: £14 (RHS Members: £8). To book: 01805 626800.

Easter Egg Trail, Sat 11 & Sun 12 April – Follow the clues around the garden to win some chocolately treasure!

RHS National Rhododendron Show, Sat 25 & Sun 26 April – The RHS National Rhododendron Show returns for a third year and promises to be more magnificent than ever!

RHS GARDEN WISLEY, SURREY

Auricular Spectacular, Sat 4 – Sun 5 April – See displays by Chelsea medal winners and choose from over 100 varieties to buy. Talks by leading experts at 11am and 3pm.

Easter Willow Weaving for Families, – Mon 6 – Thur 9 and Tue 14 – Fri 17 April – Join willow weaving artist Tom Hare as he creates beautiful new willow sculptures for the garden.

Easter Treasure Hunt, Fri 10 – Mon 13 April – Take up our Treasure Hunt challenge and journey around the garden to solve the clues. Normal garden opening times apply.

Meet Alan Titchmarsh, Thur 16 April – Join Alan for an evening in the Plant Centre and question Alan before he signs copies of his new guides ‘How to Garden’. Tickets: £3 per person. To book click above or call 01483 211113 and select Plant Centre.

MORE FROM THE RHS

Education Events at RHS Garden Wisley

Introduction to Greenhouse Gardening, Sat 4 April – How greenhouse structures work, how to equip them and raise plants for successful crops and displays.

Next Steps in the Greenhouse, Fri 24 April – This course covers heating and cooling, growing fruits, salad crops, raising flowering pot plants and managing pests and diseases.

Horticultural Practical Day, RHS Advanced Certificate (level 3), Sat 25 April – Ray Broughton from Sparsholt College will teach technical aspects of practical horticulture, covering propagation of glasshouse plants, planting in rows, sowing seeds and more.

Beyond Basics, Sun 26 April – A one-day photographic workshop for the more experienced digital user, looking at advanced features and how to develop an efficient image processing workflow.

For more information about all Learn to Garden short courses and workshops held at RHS Wisley visit the website or contact the garden for a brochure.

New Learning Centre at Harlow Carr - Work has started on this exciting carbon-neutral building, which aims to be an exemplar of sustainable development, eventually attracting over 10,000 school children a year.

Support the Harlow Carr Learning Centre – The RHS is making a huge leap forward in education facilities and how green we can be. In spring 2010 we will open the doors to the Harlow Carr Learning Centre.

Our Plant of the Month for March is Hellebore

Hellebores can flower as early as January and continue on until late April producing lovely nodding, saucer-shaped, flowers in many colours. Their foliage is virtually evergreen, just cut down the old leaves during January or February to show the flowers off to their best. They are very low maintenance and they don’t mind the shade. Most prefer heavy soils with plenty of organic matter added each year.

Hellebores are a favourite of Crocus.co.uk, here’s why they like them: “Low maintenance, virtually evergreen with a long flowering period and tolerant of dry shade, these plants should play an essential part of the winter garden. Mix them with ferns, Anemone blanda or hyacinths to create a naturalised woodland carpet, or pot them up and make a seasonal feature of them on the patio.” Take a look at a selection of Hellebores from Crocus.co.uk, click on the pictures for more information:

Helleborus ‘Picotee’ Harvington Hellebore

Helleborus niger Christmas Rose

Helleborus Collection of Six

Our Plant of the Month for February – Camellia

Camellias are wonderful plants giving amazing splashes of colour on bleak February days. The glossy dark green foliage remains throughout the year to add interest at all times.

This particular camellia has been growing in a container in my North facing garden for about eight years and always rewards me with lots of these deep pink flowers during late Winter and early Spring. The variety is Camellia x Williamsii Debbie.

Camellias are well suited for pots and containers, but they need acid compost, a reasonably large pot and regular watering to thrive. Once the flowers have faded they drop off the plant meaning no dead-heading, making this shrub a practically maintenance free plant.

Below are a selection of Camellia on sale a Crocus.co.uk, click on the pictures for more information: