Looking after your lawn in Winter
Try to rest the lawn as much as possible during winter. If practical keep off when wet or frosty, as the grass plants are not actively growing; they will not repair themselves if damaged until the spring.
Mowing
Only mow the lawn if necessary; this will depend upon weather conditions and temperatures at the time. Do not mow if heavy frosts are expected or if the ground is very wet.
Clear leaves and debris
Use a light rake or brush to keep the lawn free of leaves and debris. Specialist leaf sweepers and lawn vacuums are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns; although in winter it is better to keep off with heavier machines.
Aeration
Aerate consolidated areas of the lawn with a hand fork or with a spiking machine. These are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns. This will relieve compaction, improve drainage and allow more air into the root system leading to a healthier lawn.
Dealing with worms
Remember worms improve the nutrient content of a soil and are beneficial to the soil structure. Worm casts are best left to dry and then swept or brushed away with a stiff brush.
As leaves fall from the trees use a light rake or brush to keep the lawn free of leaves and debris.
Service mower
Service or replace your mower if necessary ready for the next growing season. As always make sure that the blades are in good condition and are sharp.
This advice is courtesy of Rolawn Direct
Jobs to do in November
Flower/Plants
- Pull up annuals and put on the compost heap then fork over the beds and border
- Prune rambling and climbing roses
- Pot up tender perennials from summer displays and bring under cover for the winter
- Rake autumn leaves from lawns, and pick them out from around border plants
- Plant new hedges
Fruit/Vegetables
- Save seeds from your favourite tomatoes, herbs and other crops
- Plant hardy peas and beans
- Take hardwood cuttings from fruit bushes
- Pot up herbs to bring indoors for winter
- Plant out autumn onion sets
Greenhouse
- Bring pots of tender bulbs and perennials under cover
- Line greenhouses with bubble polythene to provide insulation
- Clean glazing, staging and matting ready for next summer
- Clear away tomatoes and cucumbers adding the waste to your compost heap
- Sow sweet peas in pots
General
- Store hoses, sprinklers and other watering equipment in the shed over winter
- Lay new lawn turf
- Protect ceramic or glazed pots from frost damage
- Order bare-rooted roses for planting in autumn
- Wrap insulation around outside taps and pipes
Looking after your lawn in Autumn
Autumn is an important season for taking care of your lawn. It is important to use the last months of the growing season to strengthen and prepare the lawn for the rigours of winter. The effort put into a lawn in autumn will improve the quality and health of the lawn right through into the following Spring and beyond.
Mowing
As the days grow shorter and the temperatures begin to fall the rate at which the grass grows will slow, meaning that the lawn will need mowing less frequently. It is also a good idea to raise the height of cut as winter approaches. As always maintain your mower in good condition and keep the blades sharp.
Apply an Autumn Lawn Food
This gives the lawn the essential nutrients it needs to strengthen itself for winter. As autumn progresses damp still conditions can lead to diseases such as fusarium patch. Applying Rolawn GroRight Autumn Lawn Food in early autumn will help combat these by strengthening the grass plants as well as giving your lawn an attractive green colour. You can buy Rolawn Lawn Food online now.
Overseeding
Depending upon the wear and tear which your lawn has received over the previous months you may want to overseed the lawn in early autumn. Rolawn recommends a mix of our Medallion lawn seed with our Lawn Topdressing brushed into the surface of the lawn. The seed will germinate ahead of winter and give a thicker, denser lawn the following season.
Topdressing
If your lawn has become uneven then topdressing will even out any low areas. A rate of 1 – 3 kg per square metre will be sufficient when brushed into the lawn surface especially in lower areas. It is a good idea to add our Medallion Lawn seed to a topdressing to help fill in any thin areas It is always best to carry out topdressing when the lawn is dry. Topdressing also helps break down thatch and aids drainage. You can buy our quality Medallion lawn seed online now.
Aeration
Aerate consolidated areas of the lawn with a hand fork or with a spiking machine. These are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns. This will relieve compaction, improve drainage and allow more air into the root system leading to a healthier lawn.
Dealing with worms
Remember worms improve the nutrient content of a soil and are beneficial to the soil structure. Worm casts are best left to dry and then swept or brushed away with a stiff brush. Clear the lawn of leaves and debris As leaves start to fall from the trees use a light rake or brush to keep the lawn free of leaves and debris. Specialist leaf sweepers and lawn vacuums are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns.
Scarification
Scarification reduces the build up of dead grass matter, roots and moss which can cause increased stress to the grass plants. Scarification can be done using a spring-tine rake by vigorously pulling the rake through the grass sward. Electric scarifiers are also available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores.
Broadleaf weed treatment
Broad leaved weeds should be treated using a suitable selective herbicide. Alternatively weed them out by hand or using a knife / mechanical weeder remembering to get the root of the weed out.
Dealing with moss
If moss is a problem on your lawn you will need to scarify it out. You may also consider applying moss-killer product before scarifying. This will help to kill and remove more of the moss, allow the moss to turn brown/black before scarifying. After this it may be appropriate to overseed using Medallion lawn seed if taking the moss out leaves the lawn thin in some areas.
This advice come courtesy of Rolawn Direct
Now is an ideal time to prevent damage caused by Chafer Grubs
August 16, 2011 by Linda
Filed under Lawn Problems, Pests & Diseases
Chafer grubs are the larvae of the chafer beetle.
They can cause problems on any grassed area including lawns by feeding on the roots of grass plants.
The adults range from 9 to 39 mm in length and have different coloured heads and wings cases. The adults emerge between the end of May and July depending on the weather conditions in spring. They may feed on shrubs and trees before laying the eggs into grassed areas.
Larvae hatch about 2 weeks later and begin to feed on grass roots until late September when they move deeper into the soil where they pass the winter. The larvae have white bodies curved in letter C shape, light brown heads, with 3 pairs of legs.When the larvae are small they do not cause much damage to grass unless they are in very high numbers. As they grow bigger, they cause more damage.
Symptoms may appear as straw-coloured weak areas of grass, where the roots have been damaged. In most cases the larvae are discovered when birds or mammals, such as badgers or foxes, begin to rip up areas of the turf looking for the grubs. They are a protein filled delicacy to birds and mammals, which can destroy large areas when looking for them.
It is very difficult to prevent chafer larvae being laid into the lawn. Females prefer moist conditions and so the lawn should not be watered if adults are seen. However, where larvae are present the lawn should be kept well watered to try and counteract the grass from dying through drought due to a weaker root system. In most cases all that can be done is to employ bird and mammal deterrents and tidy up any damage caused.
The larvae can be controlled by removing them by hand or applying a biological nematode, such as Rolawn Chafer Grub Killer, which can be applied from late July until October. Rolawn Chafer Grub killer is specific to the pest concerned therefore safe for the user, children, pets, wildlife and the environment. Click here for further information and to order online from Rolawn Direct.
Looking after your lawn in Summer
Mowing
As temperatures hot up and we move into summer the growth of your lawn may actually start to slow down, mow as and when necessary never taking more than one third of the length of the plant off in any one cut. As always a sharp mower is essential. If temperatures become very hot your lawn will become stressed and it may be necessary to cut back on the frequency of mowing.
Feeding
It will not be necessary to feed your lawn during summer, however a feed with a spring lawn food in late spring will give it everything it needs to see it through the summer.
Watering
Summer is the time when drought can occur and a lawn can turn brown and straw coloured. Before addressing this problem the first thing to say is that well-maintained lawns will invariably recover once the rains return. Good maintenance at other times of the year, aeration and appropriate feeding will help rooting and the lawn’s ability to withstand and recover from periods of drought. If possible, avoidance is better than cure and the only way to prevent drought is to water the lawn. If you can water it is best to do this at the first signs of drought, when the grass is still green but starting to show signs of stress (little growth and a dulling of the normal bright green coloration). If you can water try to do this evenly. Also irrigate at times when the water is more likely to soak in. The general rule here is early morning or in the evening, which probably suits most homeowners. Remember to follow any local regulations when using water in summer. If your lawn does suffer from drought then mow as little as possible, the lawn won’t be growing rapidly and it will stress the lawn unnecessarily.
Broadleaf Weed Treatment
Broad leaved weeds should be treated using a suitable selective herbicide. Alternatively weed them out by hand or using a knife / mechanical weeder remembering to get the root of the weed out.
Enjoy your Lawn
Looking after and maintaining a beautiful lawn is a rewarding experience and past time. The results speak for themselves and are there for all to see. A grass surface is also one of the safest surfaces for you and your family to enjoy.
There are other benefits to having a beautiful lawn for example it is believed that standing barefoot on grass is a multi-sensory experience. It triggers within us deeply rooted associations with the smell and sound of nature and the vision of dense greenery.
Dealing with Lawn Pests
The most common lawn pests, Chafer Grubs and Leatherjackets, can cause significant damage to lawns. If you notice patches of poorly growing, yellowing grass check for signs of grubs feeding on the grass roots. These pests can be easily and safely controlled by applying a suitable nematode based product. Rolawn Chafer Grub Killer should be applied from mid-July through to late October. The optimum time of year to apply Rolawn Leatherjacket Killer is from August through to late October.
This advice comes courtesy of Rolawn Direct
Looking after your lawn in Spring
Spring is a very important season for looking after your lawn. After the rigours of winter it needs careful attention as soon as the days start to lengthen and the grass starts to grow. Giving the lawn the care it needs now will ensure the best possible results throughout the year.
Mowing
As the grass starts to grow you will need to start to mow your lawn. It is very important in early spring that you set the mowing height quite high taking no more that one quarter of the length of the plant off at a time otherwise the lawn will become stressed. A little and often approach is better in spring. As the grass grows faster as we move further into spring increase the mowing frequency and gradually reduce the height of cut to give the desired finish.
Apply a Spring Lawn Food
This gives the lawn the essential nutrients it needs over the spring period. Rolawn recommends applying a spring lawn food in early spring and then again six weeks later. The grass plants are growing rapidly at this time and like any living thing need the correct nutrients in the correct quantities in order to grow strong and healthy. Healthy plants mean a thicker denser sward and Rolawn Groright Spring Lawn Food will also give an attractive green colour to your lawn. Click here to buy quality spring lawn food online now.
Overseeding
Depending upon the wear and tear that the lawn has received over the previous months you may want to overseed the lawn in early Spring. Rolawn recommends a mix of our Medallion Lawn Seed with our Lawn Topdressing brushed into the surface of the lawn. The seed will germinate and fill in any sparse or thinner areas. Using Medallion Lawn Seed will add the highest rated cultivars to any lawn giving a thicker, denser sward.
Topdressing
If your lawn has become uneven then topdressing will even out any low areas. A rate of 1 – 3 kg per square metre will be sufficient when brushed into the lawn surface especially in lower areas. It is a good idea to add our Medallion Lawn seed to a topdressing to help fill in any thin areas. It is always best to carry out topdressing when the lawn is dry. Topdressing also helps break down thatch and aids drainage. Click here to buy topdressing online now.
Aeration
Aerate consolidated areas of the lawn with a hand fork or with a spiking machine. These are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns. This will relieve compaction, improve drainage and allow more air into the root system leading to a healthier lawn.
Scarification
Scarification reduces the build up of dead grass matter, roots and moss which can cause increased stress to the grass plants. Scarification can be done using a spring-tine rake by vigorously pulling the rake through the grass sward. Electric scarifiers are also available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores.
Broadleaf weed treatment.
Broad leaved weeds should be treated using a suitable selective herbicide. Alternatively weed them out by hand or using a knife / mechanical weeder remembering to get the root of the weed out.
Dealing with moss.
If moss is a problem on your lawn you will need to scarify it out. You may also consider applying moss-killer product before scarifying. This will help to kill and remove more of the moss, allow the moss to turn brown/black before scarifying. After this it may be appropriate to overseed using Medallion lawn seed if taking the moss out leaves the lawn thin in some areas.
Treatment of weed grasses
Undesirable weed grasses can appear in a lawn. They will be obvious as they will appear to be different to the rest of the grass sward. Grasses such as Poa Annua are endemic in the northern hemisphere; if you notice seed heads forming from pale ‘stalky’ plants then these are likely to be Poa Annua. If required these can be removed by cutting the plant out and removing the roots. Fill in the area with a mix of Rolawn Lawn Top Dressing and Medallion lawn seed as any bare patches are likely to encourage the growth of more Poa plants as it is very common in the UK and the seeds will invade any bare ground.
The key to preventing weed grasses is a good maintenance regime. A vigorous, dense and healthy growing lawn will out compete many of the weed grasses. This can be achieved with regular feeding with a quality lawn food, regular mowing with a sharp mower and overseeding any thinner patches if necessary. During spring if Poa Annua seed heads are forming it can also help to use a mower which collects the clippings and therefore removes some of the seed heads.
This advice comes courtesy of Rolawn Direct
Links: Lawn and Turf
August 12, 2010 by Linda
Filed under Useful Links
Useful links for lawn and turf suppliers and contractors:
Turf Suppliers
Complete Lawn Turf are uk distributors of high quality turfgrass.
Weedkiller
Question:
I recently got involved has a volunteer in creating a community garden for elderly people the area we have was very overgrown we have now hacked it all to the ground with strimmers etc. but I have a idea that the weeds etc. will soon shoot up again.
I would like some advice on a good economical weedkiller has its a large area somebody mentioned something called weed matting is this easy to lay and expensive or inexpensive and above all effective and would that enable a lawn to be laid on top.
Answer:
It looks like you’ve taken on a massive job here but I’m sure it will be worth while in the end.
There are a few ways to remove the weeds. The first, and the hardest, is to dig over the whole area and remove the weeds by hand. Don’t be tempted to use a rotavator because this will chop up and spread perennial weed roots far and wide, making the weed problem much worse.
Leave the land for a few weeks during which time any annual weed seeds left will germinate and these can be removed by hand. Don’t add them to the compost heap as perennial weed seeds will remain in the soil.
If you don’t fancy digging, wait until new weed shoots appear and apply weedkiller containing glyphosate. I’ve done a bit of research and found the following weedkillers which sound good. You should be able to get them at your local garden centre or DIY store:
- Weedol 2 – An economical weedkiller that can be used all round the garden except on lawns, unless you want to kill them. Weedol doesn’t harm the soil so seeding or planting can be carried out immediately after treatment. Young green suckers of roses, lilac and plums can also be killed without harming the rootstock. Effective at any time of the year, Weedol is rainproof in 10 minutes. Contains diquat. Keep away from children and pets. 12 sachet carton treats 204m.
- Roundup Weedkiller – will completely kill all weeds and roots. Children and pets don’t need to be excluded from treated areas as it is biodegradable and starts to break down as soon as it touches the soil. It contains the chemical glyphosate and includes measuring cap for easy measuring. Do not use on lawns or other wanted plants as it will kill everything plant it touches. 280ml treats 280m.
Here are a few general rules to bear in mind when using weedkiller:
- Read the manufacturer’s instructions to be sure you are using the right weedkiller for the job
- Keep weedkiller off plants that you want to keep
- Dissolve/dilute the weedkiller according to instructions on the packaging and apply weeds using a fine rose (sprinkler head) on a watering can which you only use for weedkiller
- Don’t apply on a windy day because weedkillers can drift onto other plants
- The most effective time to apply weedkillers is when weeds are leafy and growing actively, mid-spring to early summer is ideal
- Keep weedkillers in a safe place, out of reach from children and pets. When empty, dispose of them carefully.
Not all weeds will die so repeat applications may be needed.
The final method to control weeds is to cover the ground with sheets of black plastic or old carpet. Emerging weed shoots won’t get any light and will starve and die. This may take a couple of years to be 100 per cent effective. You will be able to lay your lawn over the area once all the weeds have died. You may need to weed and feed the lawn after the first year to ensure new weeds don’t take hold.
For areas which are not going to be lawned you will need to ensure the weeds don’t come back. To help keep them to a minimum add a mulch of bark, compost, manure, gravel or slate. In addition you can also use a weed-proof membrane which is made of woven polypropylene. Lay this on top of the soil and add the mulch on top of that. Plant through the membrane by cutting crosses in the material. Again, the membrane will be available at your local garden centre or DIY store.
4 Easy Steps to a Great Lawn
Not everyone has the time to spend on a full year-round lawn maintenance routine, if this applies to you then here are a few easy jobs you can carry out which will make a difference to your lawn in a short space of time.
1) Mowing
The easiest way to make it look as if you are on top of your lawn maintenance is to mow your lawn regularly. A lawn really needs to be cut every time it grows about 1cm longer than you want it. If you leave a lawn to grow too long and then cut it short, it will look unhappy for a while, because you will have cut into the thick, brown or yellow stems at the base of the plants, instead of through lush green leaf blades. Regular mowing produces a greener, denser, harder-wearing lawn.
Start mowing in spring, as soon as the grass is dry enough, with the blades set high just to slice the top off. Lower the blades as the lawn gets used to being cut but if the weather turns dry in summer, raise the blades again to reduce stress to the grass. As the weather turns colder in autumn, raise the blades back up to their spring level, but don’t give up cutting the grass for the winter as it will keep growing unless it’s really cold.
It’s up to you whether you prefer to use a grass-box or not but lawns tend to look better if you do.
2) Edging
After cutting the grass, trim around the edges with edging shears. However, before you can use edging shears, you need a lawn edge – a shallow, neat-edged gully all around your beds and borders with a vertical drop. Hold the blade of the shears against this flat surface as you cut.
3) Top Dressing
Top dressing your lawn will enhance its appearance, stimulate new grass grown, level an uneven lawn, improve drainage and wear and tear and reduce thatch. Top dressing can be done at any time but is probably best done in Spring or Autumn when the ground isn’t too dry.
4) Feeding
An essential part of your regular lawn maintenance is feeding. All lawns need feeding if they are to look good. The most important time to feed is in late spring, as that’s the start of the growing season, but you can keep feeding every six weeks until autumn to keep grass looking lush.
Spring and summer grass feeds are high in nitrogen and so produce a rich green lawn but during autumn use a formula that is low in nitrogen but high in phosphate and potash to toughen up the roots ready for winter.
Alternatively use an organic lawn fertilizer once a month which releases nutrients over a longer period of time than other lawn foods. If you want to improve your lawn without making it grow any faster (so it doesn’t need so much mowing), use an autumn lawn feed during summer instead.
Buy Lawn Care Products from B&Q
To find out more take a look at our Lawn Care articles.
What can I do to look after my lawn during dry periods?
The UK doesn’t often have long periods of hot weather but when it does, and when hose pipe bans are iminent, our lawns can soon begin looking dry or even dead.
However, all is not lost as during periods of no or low rainfall the grass will stop growing so the first thing you should do it stop mowing and don’t fertilise or use weedkiller. At the first sign of rain the grass will begin to grow again and will soon green up.
Leave it for a couple of weeks before cutting and when you do, lift the cutting height by about half an inch, then continue your normal cutting regime.
If your lawn is very dry and looking stressed it may be as well to prick over the surface of the soil to help any available water penetrate down to the roots.
Looking after your lawn throughout the year will help in times of drought. Take a look at our Lawn Guides for more information or visit Rolawn the turf and lawn experts.
Mushrooms in the Lawn
February 15, 2010 by Linda
Filed under Lawn Problems
Do you have mushrooms in your lawn?
The mushrooms you find in your lawn are actually helping to decay dead and rotting matter beneath the surface of the lawn with most of the activity taking place under the turf.
Underneath many lawns there are dead or dying tree roots, fallen leaves or thatch as they break down they are taken down by earthworms allowing the relase of nutrients into the soil. This activity is essential for the garden but can have unsightly side affects such as mushrooms growing on the surface of the lawn.
A few mushrooms will not to any harm to the grass but they can easily spread by the dispersal of their spores, or seeds. These spores are easily blown around the garden making the problem worse. However, if the mushrooms are growing under shrubs or in corners of the garden it is best to leave them to do their beneficial work.
As the mushrooms are not doing any harm to the lawn you can leave them if you want but if they are spoiling the look of your lawn then just simply brush them away with a brush as soon as they appear before they have a change to spread their spores.
The important thing to remember is that these are not edible mushrooms and can be poisonous if eaten.
Lawn mushrooms normally appear in damp conditions usually in the Autumn and to stop them taking hold ensure that the lawn is regularly scarified to remove any dead thatch or leaves.
Take a look at our Lawn Care pages for more information on how to look after your lawn.
Something is pulling up our Lawn
Question:
Something is pulling our grass up by the roots and leaving it looking a mess. it is happening in the middle of the lawn and we can’t find a trail of anything. This is happening during the night; they are only small patches but we won’t have any lawn left soon.
Answer:
It sounds like it may be birds; starlings are known to tear out tufts of grass whilst searching for grubs such as leatherjackets and chafer grubs.
You may not see any other symptoms but there could be patches of poorly growing, yellowing grass and if you check below the surface you may find the grubs feeding on the grass roots. These pests can be easily and safely controlled by applying a suitable nematode based product. Rolawn Direct sell the nematodes but you may also find them at your local garden centre. For more information click on the links. Rolawn Chafer Grub Killer should be applied from mid-July through to late October and the best of year to apply Rolawn Leatherjacket Killer is from August through to late October. So it is very good timing.
Lawn Weedkiller
Question:
I would like to know a weed killer that kills weeds on lawns but not the grass.
Answer:
There are several products available from garden centres or DIY stores such as B&Q. Here are a couple from Gardening Direct, click the links to find out more or to order online:
Verdone Extra Lawn Weedkiller – Weedkiller to control broad-leaved weeds in lawns without harming the grass. One treatment gives season long control and is effective on difficult to control weeds like White Clover, Lesser Trefoil and Black Medick as well as the more easily controlled Dandelion, Daisy, Plantain and Common Mouse Ear.
EverGreen Feed and Weed – This granular lawn feed includes weedkiller to keep your lawn healthy and looking good. Effective against a wide range of broad-leaved weeds.
Plant your Spring Flowering Bulbs
September 8, 2009 by Linda
Filed under Flowers and Plants
Now is the time to plant your spring flowering bulbs.
Spring Flowering Bulbs come in lots of shapes, sizes and colours but the one thing they have in common is the ability to turn a dull late winter, early spring garden into an oasis of light and colour. No garden is complete without the good old daffodil or tulip but there are many other spring flowering bulbs which will add additional interest.
There are bulbous plants for lots of different situations but nearly all require good drainage and many thrive in sunny sites. Many bulbous plants are threatened in the wild so it is important to buy bulbs from cultivated sources such as Crocus.co.uk which has a great range of colourful, healthy Spring Flowering Bulbs.
When planting incorporate well-rotted organic matter and a balanced fertiliser. Bulbs generally need planting quite deep; the general rule is three times their own depth. However, if you get the depth wrong most bulbs will pull themselves down into the ground using special, contractile roots. If you’re planting bulbs in heavy soil, add grit to the bottom of the hole to ensure good drainage.
A few bulbs prefer shallow planting. Plant Madonna lilies (Lilium candidum) with the tip of the bulb just showing above ground. Lay Crown Imperials (Fritillaria imperialis) on their sides so that water can’t collect in their hollow centre and make them rot.
Deadhead regularly and apply a low nitrogen, high potassium fertiliser in subsequent years. Lift and divide if they become overcrowded.
Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium cristophii – Star of Persia
Huge globes of small star-shaped, pinkish-purple flowers appear in summer above narrow, grey-green leaves. In bloom these fabulous globes – up to 20cm (8in) in diameter – have a metallic sheen. The faded flowerheads hold up well in the border and are useful for dried flower arrangements. Perfect for a sunny site, dotted in small groups among ornamental grasses, or as part of a Mediterranean scheme. Alliums look best planted between medium-sized herbaceous plants, which help to mask the strap-like leaves, which fade by the time the flowers appear.
Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’ – Dutch Garlic
Dense, rich-purple globes held high on erect stems above strap-like, mid green leaves appear in early summer. They look spectacular grouped in a pot, or in a sunny border, dotted in groups among ornamental grasses, or as part of a Mediterranean scheme. Alliums look best planted between medium-sized herbaceous plants, which help to mask the strap-like leaves, which fade by the time the flowers appear.
Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium sphaerocephalon – round-headed leek
Small, egg-shaped, claret-coloured flowerheads appear like drumsticks on tall, slender stems above strap-like, mid-green leaves in mid to late summer. Planted en masse in a border in full sun, these diminutive claret flowers look great emerging from a screen of foliage, or against a backdrop of ornamental grasses. They gently fade as summer comes to a close.
Spring Flowering Bulb
Anemone blanda blue-flowered – winter windflower blue-flowered
This is a wonderful plant that produces cheerful, daisy-like flowers in shades of blue and purple in March and April. These are perfect plants for naturalising in a mixed border around the base of deciduous shrubs, or adding spring colour to the edge of a woodland garden. For maximum impact, plant in bold drifts in September or October, and if happy, they should spread quite quickly.
Spring Flowering Bulb
Crocus chrysanthus ‘Cream Beauty’
Rich-cream goblets with brown flushes and deep golden-yellow throats, emerge in February and March amid slender, strap-shaped, mid green leaves. These spring-flowering crocuses are perfect for naturalising in sunny, well-drained areas of the lawn. Relatively vigorous, they soon form large colonies, which can be divided in early autumn for use in other parts of the garden.
Spring Flowering Bulb
Fritillaria meleagris – snake’s head fritillary
Pretty, pendent, white and pinkish-purple bells with distinctive checkerboard markings on slender stems in April and May. These delightful snake’s head fritillaries are perfect for naturalising in a moist woodland edge or wildflower garden. It’s essential to select a site where the soil remains moist in summer.
Spring Flowering Bulb
Galanthus nivalis ‘Viridapice’ – snowdrop
A taller variety with a distinctive, long spathe which looks like the flowers have a hood. This is a good choice for those looking for a slightly more unusual snowdrop, or those wanting to add to their collection as it is still quite rare. Both the inner and outer petals are white, but have green markings which make them look as if they have been painted with a brush.
Spring Flowering Bulb
Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Woodstock’ – Hyacinth
A fabulous hyacinth with deep magenta-purple blooms that are delicately scented. Plant in mixed beds in the garden or in pots on the patio so you can move them around for best effect. A great colour for mixing with deep purples or plum shades to create a ‘bruised’ border.
Browse the full range of Spring Flowering Bulbs from Crocus.co.uk
Make your own Compost
August 11, 2009 by Linda
Filed under Composting
Composting can be as simple or as complex as you want to make it and the best part is that it can consist of any organic material that we all have access to every single day from the lawn, the garden, and the kitchen.
You can even re-cycle the leaves which fall during Autumn to make wonderful leafmould which is an ideal soil improver.
Compost is what happens when leaves, grass clippings, vegetable and fruit scraps, woodchips, straw, and small twigs are combined, then allowed to break down into a soil-like texture. Compost introduces and feeds diverse life in the soil, including bacteria, insects, worms, and more which support vigorous plant growth.
Compost is multi-faceted but not intended as a fertilizer. It offers only a relatively low proportion of nutrients, yet what it does is close to magical. In its finished form as mulch, it reduces evaporation, reduces or prevents weed growth, and insulates the soil from extreme temperature changes. Mulch also keeps the upper inches of the soil cooler in daytime and warmer at night.
Regardless of the particular ingredients, making compost is akin to making bread or beer; soil-digesting bacteria like yeasts need warmth, moisture, air and something to feed on to keep them alive and growing. Almost all of the practical problems associated with making compost stem from too much or too little of those basic factors.
Compost is created from layers of grass clippings, leaves, weeds, kitchen scraps and, if available, farm animal manure. If you have meat eaters in your home, don’t use their meat scraps as they will attract rodents. Also, do not use litter from your dog or cat; it doesn’t break down properly and contains too many pathogens.
Over the years, composting has gotten a reputation for being a time-consuming job, but this is not necessarily the case. You don’t need to build a big box or turn the pile every so often. A barrel, a hole in the ground or a pile on top of the ground is satisfactory.
The important requirement is to be sure the waste material is covered with soil, so it doesn’t attract rats, other rodents or flies. You can build your layers directly on the ground, without any frame at all; if you use a container, be sure it is well ventilated.
The trick to successful compost is balancing ingredients high in nitrogen; fresh grass clippings, other fresh, green plant matter, most kitchen scraps – with those high in carbon; leaves, straw, dried grass, washed eggshells, wheat germ or other milled grains that have become too rancid or old to use, and any dried, brown plant matter. Too much nitrogenous matter yields an anaerobic, smelly pile. Too much carbonaceous matter results in a pile that never heats up. The ideal ratio is one part nitrogen to three parts carbon.
Start with a layer of small twigs, no large branches, a couple of inches deep; this will help your pile to breathe. Then, keeping in mind the 1 to 3 ratio of nitrogen to carbon, add a layer of mixed plant material. You may enrich the pile with horse or cow manure. These materials don’t break down; they simply add nutrients to the final product. Then lightly water the pile so it’s evenly moist. Too much water will interfere with aeration; too little water and the pile won’t ferment. If your pile sits in the open, you should cover it if heavy rains are forecast. An 8-inch layer of straw mulch spread over the top of the pile serves the same purpose.
Alternate layers until the pile is 5 feet high by 5 feet wide by whatever length you choose. A properly made pile that is loosely packed and well aerated will reach an internal temperature of 160 degrees within a few days. It should smell like wet hay. If the pile fails to heat up, pull it apart and redo it by adding layers of fresh green matter. If the pile becomes anaerobic (is too wet to aerate), pull it apart, let it dry out, use it as mulch and start a new pile.
After three weeks, the pile will have shrunk in size; this is normal. Dig into the pile with a fork and completely turn it over until the contents are redistributed; the idea is to put unfermented particles in contact with those that are further along. Let the pile rest, so the temperature will rise again. Turn it a second time five weeks later, let it rest a few weeks and, with luck, you’ll have a rich, crumbly pile of “black gold.”
Red Thread in Lawns
Question:
I have a 300 m2 lawn that has red thread spreading round it, I have recently fed the lawn with a high in nitrogen lawn feed, lawn looks lush green but the red thread is starting to show again. Do I keep on feeding the lawn, if so how many times and how regular? Or do I call some experts in?
Answer:
I’ve found an article about red thread from the RHS which explains a bit more about it and how to control it. http://www.rhs.org.uk/advicesearch/Profile.aspx?pid=268.
Questions for January 2008
Question
HI, I need some advice please on what to do with an old veggie patch in my backyard. The previous owner maintained a veggie patch, taking up about one-third of the yard. It is no longer maintained as a veggie patch and if I could afford it I would makeover the whole backyard. That area is now just a patch of dirt that is overgrown with weeds. The man that mows my front lawn previously cleared it, but then I found that the loose soil was unsightly and would blow onto the paved area on windy days. It also had a lot of debris in it (from old construction work on my house, bits of broken plaster) that was unnoticeable while the weeds were growing over it. How do I keep the patch looking neat, would it be possible to cover it over with gravel or wood chips? I don’t want to spend a lot of money by putting a lawn over it as I intend to redo the whole area someday.
Answer
It should be quite easy to deal with this area. First of all I would ensure that all the weeds are well and truly dead by treating the area with a good quality perennial weed killer. Leave it for a few weeks to see if any annual weeds germinate and if they do pull them out by hand. Then you should lay a weed suppressing membrane ensuring that the whole area is well covered. You will be able to buy this from your local garden centre or DIY store. Finally lay a thick layer of your chosen mulch. You can use anything you like as they all do the same job. The thing to remember is that weed seeds will find there way into the mulch and germinate. However they are usually quite weak so if you pull them up as soon as you see them they should be quite easy to control.
Question
I have just bought a lovely Cordyline australis red star it says on the plant card its only half hardy and wont survive hard frosts yet elsewhere I have read its fully hardy and the frost wont damage it I have bought it in doors placed it where it can get plenty of light and avoided putting it near radiators so should I keep it indoors for now or plant it out it is in a large black plastic pot at moment I have other Cordylines which have done ok over last two winters though different from this one
Answer
You are correct that some Cordylines do survive the winter but I think it best to play safe. Leave it indoors over this winter and plant it out into a sheltered, sunny spot once the risk of frost has passed. Next winter cover the leaves with horticultural fleece to protect it. Alternatively plant it into a nice pot and bring it indoors each winter.
Question
I have a very shaded area of my garden 5 6 hours max sun on a good day in summer I was looking at a relatively inexpensive way of planting some form of hedge that will not grow much over 3ft but will be noticeable perhaps something that may have flowers or berries on at some stage in the year any advice welcomed
Answer
I have done some research and found a few plants which should make a good, low hedge with some interest. There are not many hedging plants which like full shade so I have also included some that like partial shade. They should still do OK although they may bloom a little later than usual. Switch Ivy – likes acid soil, Snowy Woodrush – I don’t know this one well but enjoys full shade, Common Box – needs to be kept well pruned to shape, Berberis – likes sun or shade. Lovely colour but has thorns, Pyracantha – also like sun or shade but again is thorny and will need pruning well each year, Red-barked Dogwood – the red bark is even better when cut right down each year.
Questions for November 2007
Question:
I live in a very mossy area and found last year that my 30 year old very productive asparagus bed was completely covered in moss. I raked off as much as was possible but this year it has unsurprisingly returned. I have again raked off but clearly shall be left with no soil if I continue in this way. Any suggestions please as to a moss kill product I could now apply (the fern has been cut down to less than an inch above the ground – (might lawn sand be suitable?) and also how I might deal with the bed from now on to minimise moss formation in future? (I do not feel I should just leave the moss on the bed hoping that the asparagus will continue to crop through it. Would this be a sensible option?)
Answer:
This is quite a difficult problem. Firstly I would say not to use any type of moss killer on the bed as the risk to the asparagus is too great. I assume that the soil conditions are ideal for your asparagus otherwise they would not have lasted so long, however, moss loves damp ground. If it is possible to improve the drainage of the bed without disturbing the asparagus you may find this helps in the longer term. In the short term you could try removing the moss by hand then adding mulch, replacing or topping it up every year. The uneven surface of the mulch is less appealing to the moss than the smoothness of bare soil.
Question:
We have 1/2 acre, was a field. Wet and clay, windy site. We tried planting as a wet meadow but got inundated with weeds and thistles. Is there anything we can plant which would take up the wet and cope with wind? Preferably not grass!
Answer:
I would be tempted to build a good sized natural pond and plant the surrounding area with moisture loving and bog plants. You could use the excavated soil to build a mound which could be turned into a wild flower meadow or add some grit and grow non-moisture loving plants. I have found a great article from English Nature which tells you all about ponds and native plants http://www.english-nature.org.uk/pubs/publication/pdf/GardenPonds.pdf. My own article also has some ideas together with selected suppliers of aquatic merchandise which may also help. http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/aquatic_gardening.htm
Brown patches on lawn
Question:
We have brown patches on the lawn how do we repair it?
Answer:
It depends what has caused the patches. Do you have a dog?
When dogs urinate on lawns, it scorches the grass causing brown patches to appear. Both male and female dogs can cause this damage but whereas male dogs urinate in small amounts in lots of different places, female dogs tend to urinate in one place concentrating the damage in one spot. It is the high concentration of nitrogen in a dog’s urine which, in large amounts can result in dead patches of lawn. The best solution to this problem is to add water to the affected area as soon as possible to dilute the urine and neutralize the nitrogen. Adding horticultural lime or powdered gypsum to the water will restore the pH level. In the long run the bare patches will usually green up by themselves, however, the likelihood is that the grass will be replaced by clover or moss making for an untidy lawn.
Therefore the best solution is to repair the damaged patches. There are two ways to do this. The first is to cut out the affected areas and replace with a piece of turf cut to the same size and shape. The second is to scrape away the dying or dead grass and reseed. To find out how to carry out these tasks visit our full articles: Producing a Lawn From Seed and Producing a Lawn from Turf. Just follow the instructions but concentrate purely on the damaged areas.
One thing to bear in mind is that the repaired areas may grow slightly different from the rest of the lawn as the seed or turf seed mixture may not be the same as the original lawn. If you only have a small lawned area it my be better to replace the whole thing using the instructions in the links above.
