How to Propagate your own Plants for Free

Buying new plants for your garden is one of life’s little pleasures and can be extremely satisfying but often expensive. Equally as satisfying and an awfully lot cheaper is propagating your own plants.

There are several methods available; softwood cuttings, semi-ripe cuttings, hardwood cuttings, root cuttings, leaf cuttings, division, layering and collecting and sowing seed. 

Softwood Cuttings

These cuttings are taken from the current years young growth between April and June.

• Choose a young side shoot and cut below a node about 5-10cm from the tip
• Remove the bottom leaves and immerse in a fungicide solution to avoid fungal infections
• Dip the base in rooting powder
• Place a few cuttings in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost
• Place the pot in a heated greenhouse or propagator or on a windowsill enclosed in a polythene bag

Keep the compost moist and once you begin to see new growth, pot individually into 10cm pots. Before planting out in the garden get them used to cooler temperatures by placing them outside during the day or move to a cool greenhouse.

Semi-ripe Cutting

These cuttings are taken from this year’s ripe growth between June and August.

• The base of the shoot should have started to turn brown
• Cut just below a node about 10-15cm from the tip or pull the shoot off with some of the woody tissue (heel) attached
• Remove the bottom leaves and immerse in a fungicide solution to avoid fungal infections
• Dip the base in rooting powder
• Place a few cuttings in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost
• Place the pot in a heated greenhouse or propagator or on a windowsill enclosed in a polythene bag

Keep the compost moist and once you begin to see new growth, pot individually into 10cm pots. Before planting out in the garden get them used to cooler temperatures by placing them outside during the day or move to a cool greenhouse.

Hardwood Cuttings

These cuttings are taken from this year’s woody growth between September and November.

• Cut a length just below and above a node about 15-30cm long
• Remove the leaves and dip the base in rooting powder
• Place a few in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost
• Place the pot in a cold frame or in the ground in an open, sheltered, sunny position

Ensure the soil is well drained and the cuttings should be rooted by the following Autumn.

Root Cuttings

These cutting should be taken between September and November.

• Expose the roots of shrubs or lift herbaceous plants and select a young root near the crown of the plant
• Cut a length 5cm long with a straight cut at the top and a diagonal cut at the base
• Immerse in fungicide and insert in a pot of compost so the top is level with the top of the compost
• Cover with 0.5cm compost.
• Fine roots should be laid on the top of the compost and covered lightly
• Place in a cold greenhouse or cold frame and keep the compost moist.

The cuttings should have rooted by the following spring when they can be potted on.

Leaf Cuttings

There are three methods of taking leaf cuttings.

1. The first involves taking a whole leaf including the stalk (petiole)
   1. Dip the base of the stalk in rooting powder
   2. Insert in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost so the stalk is buried
   3. Place in a propagator at 18-21 degrees C or enclose in a polythene bag and stand on a warm windowsill
   4. When growth appears at the base of the leaf lift and pot on
2. The second method is to take a whole leaf and cut halfway through the main vein on the back of the leaf
   1. Place the leaf, cut side down, on the top of the compost
   2. Place grit on top of the leaf to keep it in contact with the compost
   3. Place in a propagator at 18-21 degrees C or enclose in a polythene bag and stand on a warm windowsill
   4. New growth will appear at the cuts
3. The third method is mainly used on long leaves
   1. Cut the leaf into 5cm sections and dip the bottom edge in rooting powder
   2. Insert the leaf vertically into the compost to about half it’s length
   3. Place in a propagator at 18-21 degrees C or enclose in a polythene bag and stand on a warm windowsill
   4. New growth will form at the base

Division

Division involves dividing a plant into two or more plants and should be carried out on most perennials every 3-5 years to maintain their vigor.

• Divide in late autumn or early spring
• Lift the plant taking care not to damage the roots and shake off the soil
• Using a knife or spade cut the plant into three or four similar sized pieces
• Plant out each new section as soon as possible, adding compost and a general fertiliser

Layering

Layering works well on woody plants and involves growing a new plant while it is still attached to the parent plant.

• It is best carried out between late spring and autumn
• Find a stem which is flexible enough to bend to the ground
• Make a cut about 5cm long through a node and apply rooting powder
• Where the node touches the ground dig a small hole in the soil and add compost
• Bury the stem 10cm deep at the node and peg down to secure
• Tie the end of the stem to a support

Roots should develop within 18 months at which point it can be removed from the parent plant and planted in its own spot.

Sowing Seed

There are several advantages and disadvantage to propagating by seed.

Advantages:

• Large volume of seeds readily available
• Cheap
• Simple
• Vast choice of varieties
• Can be stored for a length of time

Disadvantages:

• Not all seeds come true to type
• Some plants have lost the ability to produce seed
• Some plants take a long time to mature and flower

Most people will buy their seeds from a garden centre or specialist seeds man and just follow the directions on the packet. However it is very easy to collect seed from your own garden and also completely free.

Some plants will seed themselves, usually where you don’t want them. Once they have seeded just thin them out and/or transplant to another part of your garden. You could also pot them on and give them to friends and family.

If you do use your own seed you must remember that most do not come true to type so will not necessarily resemble the plant they came from.

You must collect the seed when it is ripe; store pods in a warm, dry place until they split. Once you have the seed label them and keep in a dry, dark, well ventilated area at between 1 and 5 degrees C.

Seeds have six requirement in order to germinate:

• Seeds have little water which is why they stay dormant for so long so water is required to germinate
• The temperature required to germinate vary by seed but generally heat helps
• Oxygen is required for respiration
• Food is supplied within the seed, if planted too deeply the food with be exhausted before it is able to photosynthesise
• Some seeds require light to germinate
• Some seeds have chemical inhibitors which need to diminish before germination is possible

Some seeds are difficult to germinate and a number of techniques have been developed to overcome these difficulties:

• Soaking seed in warm water for 12-24 hours will soften the coating and help it absorb water and remove chemical inhibitors
• Scarification: Nick large seeds with a knife or rub smaller seeds with sandpaper. This weakens the coating and allows water to enter
• Stratification: Some seeds require a period of cold before they can germinate. Place the seeds in a 50:50 mixture of moist sand and compost and place in the fridge for 4-12 weeks
• Most seeds will germinate better with some heat

Hardy Annuals can be sown outside in March or April when the soil has started to warm up.

Biennials and Perennials can be sown later in May or June. Sow directly where you want them to flower/fruit or sow in seedbeds and transplant later.

• The soil should be raked to break up the soil and to remove any stones
• Firm the soil with the back of the rake and apply a general fertiliser
• If the area is dry, water well and allow to drain, this should be carried out 3-4 weeks in advance of sowing to allow weeds germinate
• Weed the area well then sow the seed thinly in drills 5-15mm deep
• Cover lightly with soil
• Ensure the soil is kept moist and weed free
• When the seedlings appear thin them out to around 10cm apart, carry out a final thinning to 15-20cm depending on the size of the final plant.

Other seeds can be sown in a greenhouse, a propagator or on a window sill.

• Ideally use a compost formulated specifically for growing seed
• Fill a seed tray to the top with compost and gently firm, wet the compost and allow to dry
• Scatter the seed thinly on the surface of the compost and cover lightly with compost
• Cover with a sheet of glass or place in a propagator at a temperature of 18-21 degrees C
• Do not allow the compost to dry out
• Once the seedlings begin to show remove the cover/glass and move to where they can get maximum light but not in direct sunlight
• When the seedlings develop their first proper leaves prick them out into individual pots being careful not to damage the roots
• Never handle seedlings by their stems.

If the seeds are to go outside they need should be first moved to a closed cold frame to get them used to the change in temperature. After a few days they can be left in an open cold frame or stood outside during the day.

They can be planted out into well prepared ground once all risk of frost has passed.

When can I cut back Tulips?

Question:

When can I cut back the leaves of tulips after they have finished blooming or is it better to lift them and replant in autumn?

Answer:

You should cut off the flower stem once the flower has faded then wait at least six weeks before cutting back the leaves; ideally wait until the leaves are yellow and straw-like. During this time you should continue to water and feed.

You don’t have to lift the bulbs but if you need to move them you can lift them once the leaves have died down. Check the bulbs over and discard any which are damaged or diseased. Trim back the roots of each bulb and lay them on a tray to dry off for about a day. Dust lightly with sulphur to help prevent fungal rot. Store in a dry, cool place until the autumn when they can be planted in their new location.

We have Ground Elder!

The Gardening Register garden is gradually being taken over by Ground Elder.

I first noticed it last year but it was just a small patch. The smart thing would have been to dig it all out there and then but I didn’t.

This year the patch has tripled in size so I now have my work cut out for me.

Ground Elder is an invasive, perennial weed which spreads using underground stems or rhizomes. It dies down each winter and reappears in the spring and flowers with flat headed white flowers in early summer. Usually the leaves are dark green but they can also be variegated.

Because this plant creeps along under the soil it can easily creep in from wasteland or neighbours’ gardens. It can also be bought into your garden tucked away amongst the roots of other plants bought from friends or even garden centres.

The rhizomes are white so can be seen quite easily making it possible to remove it using a garden fork. However be very careful as leaving just a minute amount of root in the soil will result in a new plant, and so it goes on.

Controlling this weed is difficult but possible with time and patience.

• If possible lift any cultivated plants from the area and carefully remove any ground elder rhizones from in and around the rootball. Keep the plant moist while you treat the rest of the area.
• Dig over the area removing all evidence of the rhizomes. Cover the area with black polythene and check regularly for regrowth.
• Alternatively spray the area with a weedkiller containing glyphosate such as Roundup or Tumbleweed being careful not to get any weedkiller on other plants. This is best done when there is lots of leafy growth in mid to late summer.







• The RHS also recommend using the residual soil-acting weedkiller dichlobenil (e.g. Casoron G4 Weed Barrier) in early spring. This can be applied to the soil around some trees and shrubs, without causing them damage.
• Always read the instructions before using any weedkiller.
• Once all sign of the weed has gone you can replant the area.
• If it is in the lawn it is not a problem as regular mowing will soon weaken the plants and destroy them.

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Photinia fraseri dropping it’s leaves

Question:

I recently moved to the Netherlands. In my new yard I found a Photinia fraseri Camilvy. Over the winter it’s leaves where light green with a few brownish spots. The winter was very cold. I don’t think anybody cut the photinia back last year. Now spring has arrived and new red leaves are growing from the top. The old green leaves turned into beautiful red ones still with the dark spots on and start to fall off one after the other. Is that normal?

Answer:

Photinia fraseri is a very hardy plant and can survive quite low temperatures; the fact that you have had some new growth is a good sign but I think we need to establish if the plant is still alive.

Using your thumb nail gently scrape away a little of the outer surface of some of the stems; if the stem is green underneath then the plant is alive, if it is brown underneath then the stem is dead. Scrape away the surface of several stems as some may be dead and some alive.

If the shrub is alive it may just need rejuvenating; here’s how:

• Wait until the weather warms up and all risk of snow and frost has passed
• Cut all the stems down to around 6ins
• Sprinkle some bone meal on the soil around the plant and water in well
• Add a good 2-3ins of mulch to the surface of the soil; this will help keep in moisture and keep weeds away
• Keep the shrub well watered whilst it is re-establishing itself
• The new growth on Photinia is red so as soon as you see this you know your plant will be OK
• The leaves will turn green as they get older but should stay on the plant throughout the year
• Cutting back each spring or summer will keep the shrub under control and will help it produce the lovely red foliage
• Don’t cut back during the autumn as this new growth is susceptible to frost damage

If all the stems are dead you may still be able to revive the shrub by cutting it back to a few inches and following the procedure above. If new growth doesn’t appear after a couple of weeks then you are as well digging it up and buying a new one.

If you only have a few dead stems remove them from the base and cut back the remaining stems and, again, follow the procedure above.

Here’s a link to an article on Photinia at the RHS which may help you in the future.

Preparing your lawn for spring

Mowing is the most important maintenance operation for any lawn. Before the first cut in spring, it is important to check the lawn and the mower. Debris, such as twigs and small branches, may have accumulated over the winter. These should be removed prior to making the first cut. Check the mower is in good order with sharp blades.

The timing of the first cut tends to fall in March, however this could be early or late March and should be judged by the lawn itself, not just the time of year. If it actively growing, it is time to start mowing.The frequency of mowing should also be judged by the rates of growth. In March, you may get away with once every two weeks but in April the required frequency is more likely to be weekly.

It is very important in early spring that you set the mowing height quite high taking no more that one quarter of the length of the plant off at a time otherwise the lawn will become stressed. A little and often approach is better in spring. As the grass grows faster as we move further into spring, increase the mowing frequency and gradually reduce the height of cut to give the desired finish. When you lower the cutting height, we recommend mowing the lawn at least three times before changing the height again.

Applying a Spring Lawn Food to encourage adequate, but not excessive growth is one of the more important tasks for spring. Healthy growth in spring will aid recovery from the winter and help the lawn remain in peak condition for the summer.

Apply Rolawn GroRight Spring Lawn Food in early spring, once the grass has started to grow and needs regular cutting, and then again six weeks later. The timing may vary in different parts of the country and from one year to the next.

The ideal conditions for applying a feed are when the soil is moist and the grass leaves are dry.

For further spring lawn care advice click here.

Our Plant of the Month – Hamamelis (Witch Hazel)

One of the most spectacular plants in January is Hamamelis or Witch Hazel with the added bonus of brightly coloured leaves during the Autumn. The delicious scent from the spidery flowers is lovely at this time of year; bring a few flowering branches indoors to enjoy them all day long. The flower colours vary from bright yellow, through orange to a deep orange red, they appear in clusters along the bare branches during the winter and remain until the leaves arrive in the Spring. The Witch Hazel is a woodland plant and very low maintenance.

Crocus.co.uk are currently offering four varieties of Hamamelis, one of which is their plant of the month, click here for more information.

Mushrooms in the Lawn

Do you have mushrooms in your lawn?

The mushrooms you find in your lawn are actually helping to decay dead and rotting matter beneath the surface of the lawn with most of the activity taking place under the turf.

Underneath many lawns there are dead or dying tree roots, fallen leaves or thatch as they break down they are taken down by earthworms allowing the relase of nutrients into the soil. This activity is essential for the garden but can have unsightly side affects such as mushrooms growing on the surface of the lawn.

A few mushrooms will not to any harm to the grass but they can easily spread by the dispersal of their spores, or seeds. These spores are easily blown around the garden making the problem worse. However, if the mushrooms are growing under shrubs or in corners of the garden it is best to leave them to do their beneficial work.

As the mushrooms are not doing any harm to the lawn you can leave them if you want but if they are spoiling the look of your lawn then just simply brush them away with a brush as soon as they appear before they have a change to spread their spores.

The important thing to remember is that these are not edible mushrooms and can be poisonous if eaten.

Lawn mushrooms normally appear in damp conditions usually in the Autumn and to stop them taking hold ensure that the lawn is regularly scarified to remove any dead thatch or leaves.

Take a look at our Lawn Care pages for more information on how to look after your lawn.

Chimonanthus Praecox (Wintersweet) not Flowering

Question:

I’ve had a Chimonanthus Praecox (Wintersweet) for 3 or 4 years now, but it still hasn’t flowered. It’s in a position where it gets the sun most of the day and it’s growing fine. Beautiful leaves in the spring/summer. Only thing I can think that is wrong is that I have it in a pot. Does anyone have any other ideas?

Answer:

I have done some research on this and it seems that it can take a few years for plants to flower so all is not lost, there is still time.

One of the problems with growing plants in pots is that, even when it rains quite heavily there is often not enough rain to give the plants enough moisture. As these plants hate being too dry I would ensure that you are watering regularly, especially when buds begin to appear and during particularly hot / dry periods. They also hate to be too wet so you should also put your pot on “pot feet” to allow any excess water to easily drain away. If the water doesn’t easily drain from the bottom of the pot then try re-potting in a mixture of compost and grit to improve drainage.

Finally, I’m not sure when you tend to do your pruning but being winter flowering you should prune in Spring to ensure that you don’t inadvertently remove any developing buds.

Types of Plants – Evergreens

Evergreens are plants that keep their leaves all year round although they do tend to shed a few along the way. They are great for giving the garden year round colour and shape. Trees, shrubs, climbers, conifers and perennials all have evergreen species so visit the individual pages for care instructions.

Evergreens in our Garden: Below is a selection of evergreen plants we have in our garden; click the image to Buy your Own

Hedera helix – Goldheart*

Vinca major – Variegated Periwinkle*

Polystichum setiferum – Multilobum Group*

*Photographs owned by Linda Peppin if you wish to use these photographs in your own work please drop her a line using the contact us link below.

Caring for China Doll Plant (Radermachera sinica)

Question:

I have this extremely leggy and tall China Doll plant. The tops are taller than I am and the “bottoms” are leafless. If I cut it down will I get new growth from the bottom again or will I kill the plant.

Answer:

China Doll (Radermachera sinica) is fairly new as a house plant and can be quite fussy and difficult to grow.

It needs lots of bright light but not direct sunlight so it is best on a north or east facing windowsill. They also prefer a constant temperature of between 65 and 75 degrees away from drafts. Once you have found a place it likes leave it there as they hate to be moved around. These plants often drop their leaves for many reasons including a changes in light or temperature, irregular watering, pests and repotting. If is best to keep this plant pot bound and to prune it regularly to keep the size in check. Water regularly but don’t over water and don’t allow it to dry out completely.

The first thing you need to establish is that the stem is alive; you can do this by gently rubbing your thumbnail over the surface of the stem, if it is green underneath then it is alive, if it is brown and the stem is brittle then I’m afraid it has died. Do this test up the length of the stem to find if, and where it is dead. If it is green to the tip then all is not lost.

The next step is to cut it back to about half it’s current size, it will then begin to grow again from this point. Let it gain some height and prune it every few months to keep it healthy but to allow some slow growth.

Once this is done then follow the care rules above and it should be OK from now on.

How do I prune Senecio cineraria?

Question:

Is it possible to trim back “silver dust” plants (Senecio cineraria)?

They have grown very big and now over taking a large fern i have in the garden. I would like to tidy them by trimming them back but scared they might die.

Is this possible and what is the best way to do this?

Answer:

It is possible to prune Senecio cineraria but as it is a tender plant I would leave it until the risk of frost has passed in Spring. You may lose the flowers for the year but it will be fine the following year.

Cut out any old, diseased or misshapen stems and reduce the remainder to the size you want. Make sure you cut just above a node or pair of leaves to encourage it to bush out.

Fritillaria Imperialis

Question:

I have a fritillaria imperialis in a tub, soon after purchase and transfer the flowers died and the leaves are brown at the edges, can you suggest something please.

Answer

Fritillaria imperialis are bulbs and are prone to rotting off if they get too wet.

I would lift the plant, clean off any excess soil, place the bulb in dry sand or compost and keep in a cool, dry place. Allow the remaining leaves to die back and for the bulb to dry out.

In the autumn plant the bulb in a pot, with crocks in the bottom, using a sandy or gritty compost mix. Sit the bulb itself on a couple of inches of grit to ensure that the roots don’t sit in standing water and that the bulb stays dry throughout the winter. You will have to water the pot but make sure it doesn’t get too wet. In the spring the plant it should show new growth and eventually flower.

I hope it’s not too late to save this lovely plant but if it is you may be best buying fresh bulbs in the Autumn and following the advice above.

Plant your Spring Flowering Bulbs

Now is the time to plant your spring flowering bulbs.

Spring Flowering Bulbs come in lots of shapes, sizes and colours but the one thing they have in common is the ability to turn a dull late winter, early spring garden into an oasis of light and colour. No garden is complete without the good old daffodil or tulip but there are many other spring flowering bulbs which will add additional interest.

There are bulbous plants for lots of different situations but nearly all require good drainage and many thrive in sunny sites. Many bulbous plants are threatened in the wild so it is important to buy bulbs from cultivated sources such as Crocus.co.uk which has a great range of colourful, healthy Spring Flowering Bulbs.

When planting incorporate well-rotted organic matter and a balanced fertiliser. Bulbs generally need planting quite deep; the general rule is three times their own depth. However, if you get the depth wrong most bulbs will pull themselves down into the ground using special, contractile roots. If you’re planting bulbs in heavy soil, add grit to the bottom of the hole to ensure good drainage.

A few bulbs prefer shallow planting. Plant Madonna lilies (Lilium candidum) with the tip of the bulb just showing above ground. Lay Crown Imperials (Fritillaria imperialis) on their sides so that water can’t collect in their hollow centre and make them rot.

Deadhead regularly and apply a low nitrogen, high potassium fertiliser in subsequent years. Lift and divide if they become overcrowded.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium cristophii – Star of Persia
Huge globes of small star-shaped, pinkish-purple flowers appear in summer above narrow, grey-green leaves. In bloom these fabulous globes – up to 20cm (8in) in diameter – have a metallic sheen. The faded flowerheads hold up well in the border and are useful for dried flower arrangements. Perfect for a sunny site, dotted in small groups among ornamental grasses, or as part of a Mediterranean scheme. Alliums look best planted between medium-sized herbaceous plants, which help to mask the strap-like leaves, which fade by the time the flowers appear.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’ – Dutch Garlic
Dense, rich-purple globes held high on erect stems above strap-like, mid green leaves appear in early summer. They look spectacular grouped in a pot, or in a sunny border, dotted in groups among ornamental grasses, or as part of a Mediterranean scheme. Alliums look best planted between medium-sized herbaceous plants, which help to mask the strap-like leaves, which fade by the time the flowers appear.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium sphaerocephalon – round-headed leek
Small, egg-shaped, claret-coloured flowerheads appear like drumsticks on tall, slender stems above strap-like, mid-green leaves in mid to late summer. Planted en masse in a border in full sun, these diminutive claret flowers look great emerging from a screen of foliage, or against a backdrop of ornamental grasses. They gently fade as summer comes to a close.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Anemone blanda blue-flowered – winter windflower blue-flowered
This is a wonderful plant that produces cheerful, daisy-like flowers in shades of blue and purple in March and April. These are perfect plants for naturalising in a mixed border around the base of deciduous shrubs, or adding spring colour to the edge of a woodland garden. For maximum impact, plant in bold drifts in September or October, and if happy, they should spread quite quickly.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Crocus chrysanthus ‘Cream Beauty’
Rich-cream goblets with brown flushes and deep golden-yellow throats, emerge in February and March amid slender, strap-shaped, mid green leaves. These spring-flowering crocuses are perfect for naturalising in sunny, well-drained areas of the lawn. Relatively vigorous, they soon form large colonies, which can be divided in early autumn for use in other parts of the garden.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Fritillaria meleagris – snake’s head fritillary
Pretty, pendent, white and pinkish-purple bells with distinctive checkerboard markings on slender stems in April and May. These delightful snake’s head fritillaries are perfect for naturalising in a moist woodland edge or wildflower garden. It’s essential to select a site where the soil remains moist in summer.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Galanthus nivalis ‘Viridapice’ – snowdrop
A taller variety with a distinctive, long spathe which looks like the flowers have a hood. This is a good choice for those looking for a slightly more unusual snowdrop, or those wanting to add to their collection as it is still quite rare. Both the inner and outer petals are white, but have green markings which make them look as if they have been painted with a brush.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Woodstock’ – Hyacinth
A fabulous hyacinth with deep magenta-purple blooms that are delicately scented. Plant in mixed beds in the garden or in pots on the patio so you can move them around for best effect. A great colour for mixing with deep purples or plum shades to create a ‘bruised’ border.

Browse the full range of Spring Flowering Bulbs from Crocus.co.uk

Plant of the Month for September – Japanese Anemone

Our plant of the month for September is Japanese Anemone.

Japanese Anemone are beautiful plants, are very easy to grow and flower their heads off from August through to the frosts. During September they are at their best when there are few other plants around. The Gardening Register has two varieties in the garden Anemone ‘September Charm’ and Anemone ‘Honorine Jobert’. Honorine Jobert has been in for nearly ten years now and it never ceases to amaze me every year. September Charm was planted last autumn so this is it’s first true flowering season. The plants need to bulk up a bit before they’ll be as showy as Honorine. Take a look at the plants in our garden.

They are happy in full sun or partial shade and prefer moist, fertile soil. They are fully hardy and flower between July and September or even to the frosts if you’re lucky.

To care for your Japanese Anemones:

• Cut back the stalks after the flowers have faded
• Tidy up old dead leaves in March
• Apply a generous 5-7cm (2-3in) mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant in spring
• Avoid moving the plant since it resents disturbance
• Where necessary lift and divide congested clumps in early spring

BUY NOW

Click here to see the whole range of Japanese Anemone from Crocus.co.uk

Make your own Leafmould

Autumn can be a lovely time of year but the work involved in clearing up all the dropped leaves can be a chore each year. However, there is a benefit to be had – they make a fabulous free source of organic matter.

Leafmould is ideal for use as a soil improver, mulch or potting compost. Here’s what to do:

• Fill black polythene bags with wet leaves
• Tie a knot in the top of the bags
• Puncture a few holes in the sides of each bag
• Place the bags behind the garden shed for a year

Next autumn the rich organic material can be used to improve the soil and mulch the surface after planting.

Make your own Compost

Composting can be as simple or as complex as you want to make it and the best part is that it can consist of any organic material that we all have access to every single day from the lawn, the garden, and the kitchen.

You can even re-cycle the leaves which fall during Autumn to make wonderful leafmould which is an ideal soil improver.

Compost is what happens when leaves, grass clippings, vegetable and fruit scraps, woodchips, straw, and small twigs are combined, then allowed to break down into a soil-like texture. Compost introduces and feeds diverse life in the soil, including bacteria, insects, worms, and more which support vigorous plant growth.

Compost is multi-faceted but not intended as a fertilizer. It offers only a relatively low proportion of nutrients, yet what it does is close to magical. In its finished form as mulch, it reduces evaporation, reduces or prevents weed growth, and insulates the soil from extreme temperature changes. Mulch also keeps the upper inches of the soil cooler in daytime and warmer at night.

Regardless of the particular ingredients, making compost is akin to making bread or beer; soil-digesting bacteria like yeasts need warmth, moisture, air and something to feed on to keep them alive and growing. Almost all of the practical problems associated with making compost stem from too much or too little of those basic factors.

Compost is created from layers of grass clippings, leaves, weeds, kitchen scraps and, if available, farm animal manure. If you have meat eaters in your home, don’t use their meat scraps as they will attract rodents. Also, do not use litter from your dog or cat; it doesn’t break down properly and contains too many pathogens.

Over the years, composting has gotten a reputation for being a time-consuming job, but this is not necessarily the case. You don’t need to build a big box or turn the pile every so often. A barrel, a hole in the ground or a pile on top of the ground is satisfactory.

The important requirement is to be sure the waste material is covered with soil, so it doesn’t attract rats, other rodents or flies. You can build your layers directly on the ground, without any frame at all; if you use a container, be sure it is well ventilated.

The trick to successful compost is balancing ingredients high in nitrogen; fresh grass clippings, other fresh, green plant matter, most kitchen scraps – with those high in carbon; leaves, straw, dried grass, washed eggshells, wheat germ or other milled grains that have become too rancid or old to use, and any dried, brown plant matter. Too much nitrogenous matter yields an anaerobic, smelly pile. Too much carbonaceous matter results in a pile that never heats up. The ideal ratio is one part nitrogen to three parts carbon.

Start with a layer of small twigs, no large branches, a couple of inches deep; this will help your pile to breathe. Then, keeping in mind the 1 to 3 ratio of nitrogen to carbon, add a layer of mixed plant material. You may enrich the pile with horse or cow manure. These materials don’t break down; they simply add nutrients to the final product. Then lightly water the pile so it’s evenly moist. Too much water will interfere with aeration; too little water and the pile won’t ferment. If your pile sits in the open, you should cover it if heavy rains are forecast. An 8-inch layer of straw mulch spread over the top of the pile serves the same purpose.

Alternate layers until the pile is 5 feet high by 5 feet wide by whatever length you choose. A properly made pile that is loosely packed and well aerated will reach an internal temperature of 160 degrees within a few days. It should smell like wet hay. If the pile fails to heat up, pull it apart and redo it by adding layers of fresh green matter. If the pile becomes anaerobic (is too wet to aerate), pull it apart, let it dry out, use it as mulch and start a new pile.

After three weeks, the pile will have shrunk in size; this is normal. Dig into the pile with a fork and completely turn it over until the contents are redistributed; the idea is to put unfermented particles in contact with those that are further along. Let the pile rest, so the temperature will rise again. Turn it a second time five weeks later, let it rest a few weeks and, with luck, you’ll have a rich, crumbly pile of “black gold.”

How do you grow your own cut flowers?

Buying cut flowers on a regular basis can be quite costly, so why not try growing your own in the garden?

They can be grown in their own cutting bed or mixed into a border to add to the display; either way you could raise enough flowers to have a constant supply of fresh blooms for your home.

To get the best quality flowers it is best to grow them in a sunny spot on well drained, fertile soil. Most will need to be supported to avoid damage and it is also wise to provide shelter from strong winds.

What typs of flowers can I grow?

• Half hardy annuals

• • The are the easiest to grow as the seed are sown directly into the soil where you want them flower
  • Sow between March and May, staggering the sowings to get a succession of flowers over the summer
  • Once all the flowers have been cut and no more buds form, lift the entire plant and put on the compost heap
  • Repeat the process next spring
  • Some examples are:
    • tobacco plants (nicotiana)
    • zinnia
    • snapdragons
    • cosmos
• Biennials
  • Sow seed between May and July to flower the following year
  • Sow where they are to flower or in seed trays
  • As with the annuals, discard after flowering is over
  • Keep sowing each May to get more flowers each year
  • Some examples are:
    • erysimum (wallflowers)
    • sweet william
    • dianthus
• Perennial
  • These will flower year after year so are a good investment
  • Plant rooted cuttings in spring or pot-grown specimens at any time
  • Perennials will die down for winter and most will be OK outside, however dahlias will need a good layer of mulch over them to help them through
  • Some examples are:
    • dahlia
    • chrysanthemum
    • alchemilla mollis
• Bulbs
  • Plant spring flowering bulbs at the end of summer or early autumn
  • Once the flowers have been cut and no more buds appear leave the foliage on the plant to die down naturally, this provides the bulb with food for the following year
  • Some examples are:
    • daffodils
    • tulips
    • allium

Most plants will benefit from being picked regularly as it will encourage more buds to form and extend your cutting season.

Keep all plants well watered throughout the growing season a feed every couple of weeks.

Dying Laurels

Question:

In October last year I planted 300 Laurels, they looked very healthy and doing well, now I have noticed that some of the leaves are turning yellow and dropping off. Are they dying?

I spoke to the Garden Centre where I bought them , they told me they needed food , bone meal etc.

What do you think? they were expensive and I don’t want them dying on me.

Answer:

Firstly you should ensure that the plants are getting enough water; check the soil around the roots and it they are dry give them a good watering and continue to water until you see an improvement. Don’t overwater, you don’t want them sitting in puddles. Feeding will be required on a regular basis, usually in Spring and again in Autumn, you can use bone meal or a general fertiliser if you prefer. Finally the plants could have a magnesium deficiency so do a one off treatment of Epsom salts which you can get from the garden centre; just follow the instructions on the box.

I hope this helps and that your very expensive hedge survives.

Ants killing Kilmarnock Willow

Question:
I transplanted a Kilmarnock Willow this spring, it appeared to have survived the move quite well. In recent weeks it has been covered in ants and now the leaves have gone brown and the tree looks dead. Is there anything I can do?

Answer:
As for your Willow. Ants are a bother but they are not a destructive pest as they feed mainly on insects, including other ants. They also look for the sweet liquid known as honeydew, which is excreted by aphids and some other sap-feeding insects. However, ants do little damage to plants themselves, except by disturbing soil around plant roots while building their nests so I don’t think it is the ants which have damaged your Willow.

Getting rid of ants isn’t easy but you could try some of the controls available at garden centres and DIY stores.

I’m wondering if your Willow just hasn’t managed to survive the move, perhaps it dried out during the recent hot spell. You can tell if the tree is dead or not by gently scraping away some of the bark on its branches. If it is brown underneath then the tree is dead, if it is still green then it’s not dead. Try a few different branches as you may find the tips have died but the main stem and bigger stems are still alive. If you find some live stems, cut back the branches to the live part and cut out any branches which are totally dead. Water the tree well and keep it watered throughout the summer and it may come back in the spring. Also add some bone meal to the soil around the base of the tree, this will help the tree concentrate on producing roots.

Cutting back Carnations

Question:

Last year I sent for some carnation plug plants which I duly planted in the garden, last year they increased in size but only one plant flowered. They over-wintered well and have produced masses of blooms this summer. I neglected to stake them and they now look awful, can I cut them back or will that kill them?

Answer:

Carnations can quickly look messy if they are not supported so I think the only thing you can do is to cut them down and start again next year. Don’t cut them too low, just enough to stop them falling over.

Carnations are very easy to propagate so why not use some of the cut-offs to produce new plants for next year. Ideally this should take place in the spring but they should still root Ok at this time of year:
• Fill a pot with at least 5 inches of sand or vermiculite, water well.
• Take your cuttings which should be about 6 inches long and should include at least three sets of leaves, remove the bottom sets to leave 3-4 inches of bear stem.
• Dip the bottom of each stem in rooting hormone powder (not essential but it will help with rooting).
• Use a pencil to poke a hole in the sand or vermiculite and insert the cutting to a depth of 3-4 inches and firm around the stem. The cuttings can be placed as close together as 1 or 2.
• Place in a shady, frost-free place and check regularly; water when needed.
• The cuttings should be rooted in six to eight weeks and can then be planted in their own pots over the winter and planted out next spring.

Planting carnations in groups means that they help each other to stay upright so the more the better. It is also worth noting that carnations prefer full sun and flop even more in shade; if you have them in the shade you may want to consider moving them.

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