Plant of the Month for October – Grasses

People either love or hate grasses but at this time of year they add enormous interest to any garden; there is a huge range available adding gossamer effects, autumn colour, and winter shapes as well as a gentle rustling as the wind whips around the garden.

Some are low and spreading and so fill in gaps which tend to appear at this time of year, some have wonderful flowering spikes with amazing colour, and some provide height, always a bonus in any garden.

Here is a small selection of grasses available from Crocus.co.uk; click the images for more detail.

Grasses can be used in several ways, often they are planted in drifts through a border which creates a natural look and brings different parts of the garden together into one cohesive design. They can also be planted as individual specimens adding dramatic impact to the smallest of gardens. If room is limited or if you have a paved garden or yard, grasses can easily be grown in containers which often helps to soften more formal designs and also means they can be moved around to change the impact as the year progresses.

Giant grasses such as pampas grasses quickly form enormous clumps and can soon dominate a bed so only plant these where space is plentiful or try them in containers.

There are many smaller grasses which can be accommodated in even the smallest of borders; read the label carefully before planting to ensure you have the correct amount of space

Sedges are suitable for damp conditions and the Britain’s native sedge, Carex pendula is well worth trying if your garden is on the damp side.

Most grasses are easy to grow but most need full sun to get the most out of them, any soil type will do. Feed in the spring with a general fertiliser but don’t over feed. Cut back in February and add a thick layer of mulch.

Click here to see the full range of Grasses from Crocus.co.uk

Or take a look at the range from Gardening Express

Mulch and Mulching

Mulching is the application of organic matter on any exposed soil between plants, shrubs and trees and should be carried out while the soil is warm and moist.

Benefits of Mulching

• To retaining moisture – a good layer of garden compost or well-rotted mature will keep the soil below cool and moist and therefore help retain moisture. Never mulch on top of dry soil as it may stop rainwater soaking in
• To suppress weeds – a layer of mulch on top of the soil will exclude any light from weed seeds helping to stop them germinating. However, you must ensure that the ground is weed free before you mulch as it does not actually stop the weeds from growing
• To improve the soil – the mulch will eventually be dragged down into the soil by worms thereby adding goodness to the lower levels of the soil. This is sometimes known as the “no dig” technique for soil improvement.

Types of Mulch

• Fresh manure releases ammonia which can scorch or kill plants, therefore, should be kept for six months before being used so that it rots down sufficiently. Don’t keep it too long though as you will find all the nutrients will have been washed out by the rain
• Leaf Mould is just well rotted leaves; click here to find out how to make your own leaf mould
• Mushroom Compost tends to be alkaline due to the chalk used in the casing material but if you live in a mushroom growing area it can be a good source of organic matter. Especially good for acid soils
• Chipped Bark is good for mulching but composted bark is excellent for soil improvement
• Garden Compost is rich in nutrients and is one of the best soil improvers there is; click to find out how to make your own compost
• Peat used to be the main soil improver for gardeners but in recent years more and more people are realising the damage peat-extraction is making to wetland areas so it is best avoided

The 12 Step Beginners Guide to Pruning

Not all shrubs require pruning but you may want to consider it in order to shape the plant, to encourage vigorous growth, flowering or fruit production or to remove dead, damaged or diseased material.

Here is a beginners guide to pruning:

1. Pruning is best carried out immediately after flowering to ensure a good display the following year but a general pruning in Autumn is also usual particularly for roses
2. Always cut at a downward angle to allow rain to fall away and not sit on the cut
3. Pruning to remove spent flower heads is always a good idea as it stops the plant spending energy producing seed
4. Always use good quality, sharp, clean tools
5. Cut out dead or diseased stems right down to where they reach the roots or main stem
6. Take out any stems that cross over other stems as they will eventually join together and cause injury which can let in disease
7. Take a look at the plant and decide what size and shape you want and bear this is mind throughout the pruning process
8. Take a stem and starting at the tip look along it’s length to where it reaches the base. The “nodes” you see along the length are where either leaves, new stems or flowers will appear; you won’t know in advance which of these it will be
9. By pruning just before a node (i.e. before when looking from the tip to the base) you stimulate a chemical at the node which tells the plant to shoot out from there and produce a flower, leaf or another stem
10. If you prune after a node the chances are that the stem will die back from the end down to the next node and may even continue down the stem
11. To hard prune, count the number of nodes up the stem from the base; you should leave at least two nodes to allow for die-back so pruning just before the third node is usually ideal; this type of pruning produces new growth and reinvigorates the plant
12. For an annual prune when you just want to keep the shrub in shape so you should cut just above the node needed to maintain the shape; this type of pruning usually produces flowers and new leaves the following season

Next you can find out more about pruning specific types of plants:

Evergreens – During May cut out dead, weak or crossing branches and remove extra branches if the shrub is overcrowded. Examples: Camellia, Pieris, Rhododendron -

Early Flowering Deciduous Shrubs – Immediately after flowering cut out dead, weak or crossing branches and remove extra branches if the shrub is overcrowded. Cut back all branches which have flowered this year. Examples: Forsythia, Weigela, Deutzia, Philadelphus

Later Flowering Deciduous Shrubs – During January to March before the new growth appears cut out dead, weak or crossing branches and remove extra branches if the shrub is overcrowded. Cut back all old wood to the ground. Examples: Buddleia, Hypericum, Cornus

Damaged or Diseased Trees – Identify the diseased or damaged branches and cut back to healthy, clean wood.

Clematis

Group 1 – these are small-flowered species which flower in early spring on last season’s growth Immediately after flowering remove dead or damaged stems, and reduce other stems if needed. To renovate an older plant cut back to 15-30cm (6-12in) from the base immediately after flowering

Group 2 – large-flowered, flowering May-June on the previous year’s growth. Some flower again in summer on current season’s growth. Remove dead and damaged stems in early spring before growth begins, trimming all remaining stems to a pair of strong buds. To rejuvenate a mature specimen remove old shoots during spring

Group 3 – flowers late summer on current season’s growth. Cut back all growth to a pair of strong buds 15-20cm (6-8in) above soil level, before growth begins in early spring

Garden Soil

Soil is a gardener’s most precious resource and if well looked after it will produce bigger crops and healthier plants that last longer.

This can be achieved by digging and adding well-rotted organic matter and fertilisers. For new gardens, new borders or the replanting of an established border, it is well worthwhile improving the soil before planting.

Soil is made up of three basic types of particles: clay, silt and sand; it also contains the remains of decomposed organic matter (humus).The ultimate performance of soil is determined by the proportions of these ingredients.

To find out what type of soil you have in your garden collect a sample of soil; moisten it with water and knead it in your hand to a smooth paste. How it feels and behaves when kneaded and rolled will determine its texture; take a look below:

Soil Type	Identifiable By	Advantages	Disadvantage	How to Improve
Loam	If it feels sticky but also gritty, it’s loam. If it’s mostly sticky, roll it into a worm shape and if it breaks up when rolled, it’s also loam	This is the best type of soil with an equal mix of particles	None	None needed but an autumn mulch of well rotted organic matter will help maintain the quality
Clay Loam	If it rolls into a worm shape easily but feels rough, it’s clay loam	A mixture of clay and loam soil with the advantages of both	A mixture of clay and loam soil with the disadvantages of both	None needed but an autumn mulch of well rotted organic matter will help maintain the quality
Sandy Clay	If the worm shape becomes shiny when rubbed but still feels gritty, it’s sandy clay	A mixture of clay and and sandy soil with the advantages of both	A mixture of clay and and sandy soil with few of the disadvantages of both	None needed but an autumn mulch of well rotted organic matter will help maintain the quality
Clay	If the worm shape becomes shiny and does not feel gritty, then it’s clay	Fertile Produces good crops	Poor Drainage Remains wetter and colder for longer Heavy to cultivate	Add artificial Drainage Dig in autumn to expose to winter frosts Add a dressing of Lime Incorporate farmyard manure
Sand	If it feels gritty, roll it into a ball. If it won’t form into a ball, it’s sand	Free Draining Warms up quickly in Spring Light to cultivate	Prone to drought Goodness easily washed out	Add lots of farmyard manure Apply fertilisers in spring and summer
Sandy Loam	If it forms into a ball and doesn’t fall apart, it’s sandy loam	A mixture of sand and and loam with the advantages of both	A mixture of sand and and loam with few of the disadvantages of both	None needed but an autumn mulch of well rotted organic matter will help maintain the quality
Silty Loam	If it feels more slippery or silky, it’s silty loam	Well drained Retains goodness Not as heavy as clay Can be fertile	Not as light as sandy soil Easily compacted	Regular light dressings of Lime, well-rotted compost and fertilisers Dig the ground in autumn
Stony	Contains lots of stones	Well drained Dry in early spring	Dries out quickly in summer Difficult to cultivate	Remove large stones from the surface Apply farmyard manure and fertilisers just below the surface Do not dig deeply
Chalky	Dark topsoil with white subsoil	Good for rockery plants	Sticky and soft in wet weather Too alkaline for many plants	Apply farmyard manure and fertilisers just below the surface or try green manures Do not dig deeply
Peaty	Contains plant remains and has spongy texture	Easy to cultivate Good for acid loving plants	Too acidic for most plants Poorly drained	Ensure good drainage Add generous amounts of Lime Add loamy Topsoil

Before planting you will also need to consider your soil’s pH which indicates the acidity of the soil.

Most plants will be quite happy in a neutral or slightly acid or alkaline soil with pH of between 6 and 8. If your soil is 7.5 or more then your soil is alkaline, a pH of less than 7 means your soil is acid and you will be able to grow plants such as Hydrangea and Rhododendron.

You can easily test the acidity of your soil by using a simple Soil Testing Kit which is available at most garden centres, just follow the instructions on the box.

Buy Soil PH Tester Kit from Greenfingers. Liquid formula to test the pH of your soil, easy to use, accurate liquid testing, contains enough for 20 tests. Includes a list of over 400 plants with their pH preference. £8.16 (at time of publication)

Camellia not flowering

Question:

I have a Camellia shrub but it will not flower. I have had it at lease 6 years and looks healthy enough but no flowers. Can you advise what I can do?

Answer:

Camellias are lovely shrubs and a great splash of colour at this time of year. They are relatively easy to grow but do need certain conditions; check the list below to see if any changes need to be made:

• They are woodland plants and prefer a sheltered site with light shade
• They need free-draining conditions
• The soil should have plenty of organic matter incorporated in the soil; leafmould is best
• They need an acid soil so if yours is in the ground check the ph. If it isn’t acidic then lift and plant in a container using ericaceous compost and feed regularly with an ericaceous feed
• If possible water with rain water rather than tap water
• Feed with an acidic feed or use fish, blood and bone or a seaweed product.
• Don’t feed after July as this can lead to the buds dropping off
• Buds will begin forming in late summer so make sure you water well during dry spells; even if it rains it is not always enough for a large shrub particularly if it is in a container
• Mulch with a good 3-4in layer of bark or leaf mould to help conserve water
• Once your shrub begins to bud don’t be worried if a few fall off; this is normal
• Some cultivars are tender so will need protection during the winter; if you know which yours is I can find out if it is tender
• Severe frost can damage young buds so think about where yours is located; if it is exposed consider moving it to a more sheltered position

Photinia fraseri dropping it’s leaves

Question:

I recently moved to the Netherlands. In my new yard I found a Photinia fraseri Camilvy. Over the winter it’s leaves where light green with a few brownish spots. The winter was very cold. I don’t think anybody cut the photinia back last year. Now spring has arrived and new red leaves are growing from the top. The old green leaves turned into beautiful red ones still with the dark spots on and start to fall off one after the other. Is that normal?

Answer:

Photinia fraseri is a very hardy plant and can survive quite low temperatures; the fact that you have had some new growth is a good sign but I think we need to establish if the plant is still alive.

Using your thumb nail gently scrape away a little of the outer surface of some of the stems; if the stem is green underneath then the plant is alive, if it is brown underneath then the stem is dead. Scrape away the surface of several stems as some may be dead and some alive.

If the shrub is alive it may just need rejuvenating; here’s how:

• Wait until the weather warms up and all risk of snow and frost has passed
• Cut all the stems down to around 6ins
• Sprinkle some bone meal on the soil around the plant and water in well
• Add a good 2-3ins of mulch to the surface of the soil; this will help keep in moisture and keep weeds away
• Keep the shrub well watered whilst it is re-establishing itself
• The new growth on Photinia is red so as soon as you see this you know your plant will be OK
• The leaves will turn green as they get older but should stay on the plant throughout the year
• Cutting back each spring or summer will keep the shrub under control and will help it produce the lovely red foliage
• Don’t cut back during the autumn as this new growth is susceptible to frost damage

If all the stems are dead you may still be able to revive the shrub by cutting it back to a few inches and following the procedure above. If new growth doesn’t appear after a couple of weeks then you are as well digging it up and buying a new one.

If you only have a few dead stems remove them from the base and cut back the remaining stems and, again, follow the procedure above.

Here’s a link to an article on Photinia at the RHS which may help you in the future.

Pest on Camellia

Question:

The flower buds on our Camellia are going brown and then falling off plant. Upon closer investigation we found very tiny whitish bugs in between the forming petals and the heart of the bud. Please can you help us to identify cause and how to treat the nuisance so we can get flower display we’d be most disappointed to lose the show from a treasured wedding gift.

Answer:

I have been a bit stumped with this one as whereas bud failure in Camellias is very common I had not heard of a particular bug which affects the buds. However, I have interrogated the RHS website and I think they may be Capsid bugs which are sap-feeding insects that feed at the shoot tips, and on flower buds, of a wide range of herbaceous and woody plants. It doesn’t mention that they over-winter within the buds but everything else seems to fit. Alternatively it may be aphids which come in lots of colours including white and can over-winter as adults. Either way the treatment is the same.

When (if) we get a dry day spray your plant with a general insecticide from garden centres and DIY stores; just read the label to ensure it is suitable for greenfly. Stray regularly throughout the summer to break the laying cycle and spray again at the end of autumn to kill those settling in for the winter.

Here’s what the RHS say about Camellias which should help you care for your beloved plant:

Despite being easy to grow, camellias are occasionally subject to problems.

• Failure to flower and loss of flower buds are common problems, but can be avoided by providing good growing conditions:
  • Water during dry spells in late summer when flower buds are forming.
  • Mulch with an 8-10cm (3-4in) layer of chipped bark or leaf mould in late winter or early spring to conserve water around the roots.
  • Move container-grown camellias out from under the eaves of the house in late summer or autumn so that they catch the rainfall.
  • Do not feed camellias later than the end of July, as excessive or late feeding can lead to bud drop.
  • Some natural bud drop may occur where too many buds have formed, particularly with double-flowered cultivars. This should not be excessive and is nothing to worry about.
  • Protect tender cultivars with a double layer of horticultural fleece in winter, as low temperatures can lead to bud drop.
• Flowers can be damaged by rain and frost, but camellia petal blight may also be involved.
• Like many evergreen plants camellias are vulnerable to windy, cold or wet weather, developing wind scorch, oedema or a coating of algae on the leaves.
• Nutrient deficiencies may cause yellowing foliage where alkaline soil (usually greater than pH6.5) prevents uptake of certain nutrients.
• Camellias can succumb to pests and diseases, including Camellia yellow mottle virus, vine weevil (especially those grown in pots), camellia cushion scale, camellia gall and the root diseases phytophthora and honey fungus.
• The loss of a few leaves is normal and nothing to worry about

Another thing to note, if you don’t know already, is that Camellias are acid lovers and should be planted in ericaceous compost if in a pot or fed regularly with an ericaceous feed if planted in an alkaline garden soil.

Coastal Plants in Containers

Question:

I live on a barge on the river Medway and would like to plant in troughs or pots around my deck area. I’d like to know what plants would stand a salty wind and what kind of soil to use.

Answer:

There are a number of plants which are suitable for a coastal location and most of them are suitable for growing in containers. Here is a link to a selection from Crocus.co.uk which will give you an idea of the type of plants to look out for and also give you more details as to final size and care instructions.

The thing to remember is that a large plant will require a large pot but will never reach the size that it would if grown in the ground so you may be able to grow small trees or large shrubs quite easily. If growing tall plants there is always the chance that the pot will be blown over in heavy winds so you may need to consider attaching the pot to the deck area in some way or use a heavy pot with broken bricks or crocks in the bottom to give additional ballast.

I don’t know if weight will be a problem on your deck but if you need to reduce weight then use plastic pots and troughs and mix plenty of perlite or vermiculite with the compost before planting. Both are readily available from garden centres and major DIY stores.

As for compost; any good quality compost will do but you will need to feed every 2-3 weeks during the growing season and water every day during hot weather. The compost needs to be well drained to avoid water-logging so add some perlite or vermiculite to the compost to help hold moisture without becoming soggy. A couple of inches of mulch on the top will also help retain moisture and keep weeds away. The mulch can be anything from well-rotted manure, slate chippings, bark chips or pebbles.

Here’s how to plant up your containers:

1. Place 2in (5cm) of broken up terracotta pots, bricks or large stones to the base of the pot to help drainage. If weight is an issue use broken up polystyrene

2. Use a loam-based compost such as John Innes No 3 to provide weight for stability, mix in plenty of perlite or vermiculite if you need to reduce weight

3. For acid lovers use an ericaceous compost

4. For non acid lovers mix in some well rotted manure or pelleted chicken manure to add nutrients; apply a controlled-release fertiliser each year or use a liquid feed regularly throughout the growing season

5. Place the rootball in the pot adding compost beneath to ensure that the surface is no higher than 2in (5cm) from the top of the pot; this is to allow for mulch and watering

6. Firm the compost well around the root ball to get rid of any air pockets and firm down the surface

7. Mulch the soil surface with more manure or some gravel or bark to help keep moisture in the soil and keep weeds down

8. Place the pot on feet to lift it off the ground and avoid water logging

9. Water well; keep watering until the water is seen running out from the bottom of the pot

10. Use rainwater for ericaceous plants

11. Containers are prone to drying out so water regularly and thoroughly

12. In following years apply a controlled-release fertiliser or use a liquid feed regularly throughout the growing season

13. In the spring refresh the compost by removing 5cm (2in) of dry, loose compost near the surface and replacing it with some fresh compost mixed with some controlled-release fertiliser

14. Every three to five years remove the tree/plant from its pot and tease out the roots loosening the old compost; after trimming the larger roots, repot in fresh compost

Tree Dahlia

I have just come across an amazing Dahlia from Suttons.

This amazing plant Dahlia imperialis or Tree Dahlia can grow up to 20 foot tall in just one season.

Bought as tubers and treated like any other Dahlia they flower each year around November and December and have thick, bamboo-like stems and dramatic foliage as well as the lovely pink flowers.

If there is an early frost and the plants begin to turn black just cut it down, give it a good mulch and it will come back again next year.

Suttons are currently offering 3 tubers for £19.95 or buy any 4 packs of summer flowering bulbs and get a FREE Tree Dahlia as well as 20% discount.

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Why do I get a lot of leaves but few flowers in my garden?

Question:

Why do I get a lot of leaves but few flowers in my garden? The water supply is good and there is (I think) a good amount of sunlight, and I regularly mulch with compost. Can you suggest anything?

Answer:

Lack of flowering can be caused by a few things:

• Lack of feed: during the growing season you should be feeding your garden and containers about once a fortnight. A general fertiliser will be fine for most plants, if you have any acid lovers such as azaleas or camellias then use an ericaceous feed.

• Lack of water: although your garden may look OK it is surprising how quickly plants can dry out, particularly in containers. You should water your containers regularly regardless of rain and if you have a long dry spell you should give the soil plants a bit of a watering too. Lack of water when plants are in bud can cause the buds to die and therefore not produce flowers.

• Frost: if your plants get affected by frost whilst in bud then, again, the buds will die off before they have a chance to flower. Early flowers such as camellias are particularly susceptible to this.

• Pot Bound: if you have container plants you need to re-pot these every 2-3 years into a bigger pot with new compost and some feed.

• Dead heading, the removal of spent flowers, will prolong the flowering season.

• Mulching is great so continue to do this in autumn but remember to feed from mid spring through to late summer.

• Pests: some insect and birds love flower buds so they may be getting eaten before they get a chance to flower.

• Lack of sun can reduce flowering so the sunnier the better but a lot of sun will also dry out plants quickly so keep an eye on them.

• Flower size and length of flowering: not all plants have showy flowers so they may have flowered and you haven’t noticed, also some only flower for a short time so, again, they may have been missed

How can I train my Jasmine?

Question:

I have a jasmine which has been planted by the front door and have been trying to train it over the door but to be honest I’ve no idea what I’m doing. It has been there 12 years and has many trunks if you know what I mean. I don’t know if I should be cutting some of them out or what growth to cut out. As you can guess I’m a novice gardener.

Answer:

The first thing we need to do is establish which plant you have.

There are two main types of Jasmine, one flowers in Winter/Spring the other flowers in the summer and they need to be treated differently.

The most well known jasmine is Jasminum officinale which has white or cream flowers in the summer and is highly scented. It is most likely that your plant is this one as it is often planted by doorways to appreciate the scent. It don’t mind a little shade but the sun will bring out the scent; it should also be in a sheltered position. It can grow to 12m which makes them ideal for training over an arch but it can take over if it isn’t kept in check. You have two options at this point; prune it back and hope it recovers or get rid of it and start again.

If you want to try to rejuvenate it then follow these steps but bear in mind that all hard pruning can be risky and in most likelihood it will not flower this year:

• This work should be done during February or March but not if frost is expected

• First cut out any dead or really old stems right down to the base

• Cut down any remaining main stems to about 18”

• Cut back any stems growing out from the main stem to about 6”

• If possible remove the top layer of soil from around the base and replace with new top soil or compost

• Water well and top off with a thick layer of well rotted compost (this is called mulch)

• Keep well watered during dry spells

• Fertilise with a general fertiliser in the spring

Once the plant is cut down you will be able to see the trellis or arch so check that it is still sound and if not replace or repair it. Once the plant begins to grow you must regularly tie in the new growth to fill in any gaps up the trellis and keep tying them in right up to the top of the arch (don’t tie in too tight, leave some room for growth). Once the stems get too long just cut them to the length you want. Cut out or shorten any shoots which begin to grow outwards from the main plant to ensure that it doesn’t get too wide. When making your cuts always cut just above a “node” with a slanting cut. A node is a “join” on the stem, once cut, this join produces a new stem or a flower bud. Cutting below the “node” means you are cutting off the chance for a new flower or stem. The thing is that you want to produce a plant that you like the look of so if something doesn’t look good to you then cut it out or cut it down and let it re-grow to the shape and size you want.

Plants that grow close to a house, wall, or fence never get enough water from rain alone so need to be watered regularly particularly during dry spells, when it is developing buds or after a hard prune. Always keep a good layer of mulch on the surface of the soil which will help keep moisture in the soil and help stop weeds developing. Fertilise with a general fertiliser once a month from spring through to autumn.

If your plant flowers in Winter/Spring with yellow flowers then it is a Winter Flowering Jasmine which means that it develops it’s buds during the summer/autumn and therefore should not be pruned during the autumn or winter otherwise all the flowers will be lost. All pruning needs to take place once the flowers have gone over which is usually around April or May. They are very good for training over an arch but they only reach 2.5m so will not cover a large area. They like the sun but do not mind some shade. Follow the same steps as above but carry out the work in late spring or summer.

There is another plant, Trachelospermum, which has scented jasmine-like flowers and is often known as star jasmine. It is evergreen so if your plant does not keep it’s leaves in the winter then this isn’t the one you have. It is an excellent climber for a sunny, sheltered spot but does not survive outside in all areas. If you think this is your plant then let me know and I’ll let you know how to deal with it.

Tritonia Rubrolucens and Hippeastrum (Amaryllis)

Question:

Could you please tell me how best to deal with the foliage of “Tritunia rudrolucens” and “Hipeastrum advenum”now that the flowers have finally died off, leaving climps of foliage 12 to 18 inches high.

Answer:

Do you mean Tritonia rubrolucens and Hippeastrum (Amaryllis)? If so here is how to deal with each of them. If these are not the plants you are enquiring about could you please double check the spellings and get back to me.

Hippeastrum or commonly known as Amaryllis are usually grown as an indoor plant for Christmas; with some care you can get these to re-flower year after year. Here’s how: stop watering and put the plants in their pots into a frost free place for the summer. They will usually die back within a couple of months but if you want to you can cut back the foliage. Keep them dormant until about October at which time you can bring them into a light position indoors and begin feeding and watering. With a bit of luck they will re-flower for Christmas next year.

Tritonia are similar to Crocosmia but are not very hardy so they should only be grown outdoors in mild area. If yours are outdoors and have started to die back cover the top of the plant with a good layer of mulch to allow them to die back and to keep them warm throughout the rest of the winter. If you grew them indoors then I suggest moving the pots into a frost free shed or greenhouse to let them dry out and for the foliage to die down. You can either leave them as they are until next autumn when you can redress the pots, water and bring indoors to flower. Alternatively, once the plants have dried out remove the compost from around the corms and leave the corms to dry out completely; next autumn re-plant the corms in fresh compost, water and bring indoors.

Types of Plants – Hedges

Hedges are trees or shrubs which are planted close together to form a continuous row of foliage. They are usually cut to maintain a particular shape and height. Visit our Hedges page for more information.

Care:

• Choose healthy plants either bare rooted or container grown
• Clear the ground of all weeds
• The addition of organic matter or fertilisers is not required unless the soil is particularly sandy
• Water the plants well before planting
• Plant at regular intervals in holes big enough not to constrict the roots
• Water in well and apply a mulch to help retain moisture and keep down weeds
• Some species benefit from being pruned immediately after planting, check the label for details
• Shoots should be reduced to about 10cm
• Most deciduous plants should be reduced to about one-third in the autumn after planting
• Evergreens and informal hedges should not be cut-back until they are at least a year old.

Unfortunately we don’t have any hedges on our property. Here are some examples of plants which make great hedges, click the images to buy your own.

Fagus sylvatica – Common Beech

Pyracantha Red Column – Firethorn

Taxus baccata – English Yew

Types of Plants – Ground Cover Plants

Ground Cover plants are low growing, spreading shrubs which can cover a large area of ground, usually quite quickly. They suppress weeds and require very little attention.

Care: Clear the ground of weeds and dig over the soil, add well-rotted organic matter and fertiliser if required. Water the plants thoroughly before planting. Dig a hole twice as big as the pot. Plant at the same level as it was in the pot. Firm well, water and mulch.

Ground Cover Plants in our Garden: Below is a selection of ground cover plants we have in our garden; click the image to Buy your Own

Winter Hardy Evergreen Plants

Vinca major – Variegated Periwinkle*

Geranium – Johnson’s Blue

*Photographs owned by Linda Peppin if you wish to use these photographs in your own work please drop her a line using the contact us link below.

Types of Plants – Half Hardy Perennials

Half Hardy Perennials are similar to hardy perennials in that they will also die down in autumn and grow again the following spring, however, they cannot withstand frost so they require to be protected over the winter or taken into a greenhouse.

Care: Plant Half Hardy Perennials in autumn or spring. The site should be well prepared and lots of well-rotted organic matter incorporated, remove all weeds and ensure the soil is well drained, water well before planting and a good layer of mulch.

Deadhead regularly to encourage flowering throughout the season but keep a few heads in place to produce seeds for the following year. Once flowering is over and the plant starts to die back cut back the dead growth to ground level to keep the site tidy and cover with horticultural fleece or a cloche to protect them over the winter. Alternatively dig up the plant, place in a pot and keep in a greenhouse until the risk of frost is passed.

Half Hardy Perennials in our Garden: Below is a selection of hardy perennials we have in our garden; click the image to Buy your Own:

Fancy Leaf Pelargonium

Fuchsia Dancing Flame

Penstemon heterophyllus Heavenly Blue Springs

Types of Plants – Hardy Perennials

Hardy Perennials die down each autumn and grow again the following spring so they can stay in the ground all year and only require to be split every three to five years.

Care: Plant Hardy Perennials in autumn or spring. The site should be well prepared and lots of well-rotted organic matter incorporated, remove all weeds and ensure the soil is well drained, water well before planting and a good layer of mulch.

Apply a general fertiliser in the spring and replace the mulch each Autumn. Deadhead regularly to encourage flowering throughout the season but keep a few heads in place to produce seeds for the following year. Once flowering is over and the plant starts to die back cut back the dead growth to ground level to keep the site tidy.

Hardy Perennials in our Garden: Below is a selection of hardy perennials we have in our garden; click the image to Buy your Ow

Peony ‘Bowl of Beauty’*

Geranium Johnson’s Blue

Japanese anemone ‘Honorine Jobert’*

*Photographs owned by Linda Peppin if you wish to use these photographs in your own work please drop her a line using the contact us link below.

Plant of the Month for September – Japanese Anemone

Our plant of the month for September is Japanese Anemone.

Japanese Anemone are beautiful plants, are very easy to grow and flower their heads off from August through to the frosts. During September they are at their best when there are few other plants around. The Gardening Register has two varieties in the garden Anemone ‘September Charm’ and Anemone ‘Honorine Jobert’. Honorine Jobert has been in for nearly ten years now and it never ceases to amaze me every year. September Charm was planted last autumn so this is it’s first true flowering season. The plants need to bulk up a bit before they’ll be as showy as Honorine. Take a look at the plants in our garden.

They are happy in full sun or partial shade and prefer moist, fertile soil. They are fully hardy and flower between July and September or even to the frosts if you’re lucky.

To care for your Japanese Anemones:

• Cut back the stalks after the flowers have faded
• Tidy up old dead leaves in March
• Apply a generous 5-7cm (2-3in) mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant in spring
• Avoid moving the plant since it resents disturbance
• Where necessary lift and divide congested clumps in early spring

BUY NOW

Click here to see the whole range of Japanese Anemone from Crocus.co.uk

Make your own Leafmould

Autumn can be a lovely time of year but the work involved in clearing up all the dropped leaves can be a chore each year. However, there is a benefit to be had – they make a fabulous free source of organic matter.

Leafmould is ideal for use as a soil improver, mulch or potting compost. Here’s what to do:

• Fill black polythene bags with wet leaves
• Tie a knot in the top of the bags
• Puncture a few holes in the sides of each bag
• Place the bags behind the garden shed for a year

Next autumn the rich organic material can be used to improve the soil and mulch the surface after planting.

Make your own Compost

Composting can be as simple or as complex as you want to make it and the best part is that it can consist of any organic material that we all have access to every single day from the lawn, the garden, and the kitchen.

You can even re-cycle the leaves which fall during Autumn to make wonderful leafmould which is an ideal soil improver.

Compost is what happens when leaves, grass clippings, vegetable and fruit scraps, woodchips, straw, and small twigs are combined, then allowed to break down into a soil-like texture. Compost introduces and feeds diverse life in the soil, including bacteria, insects, worms, and more which support vigorous plant growth.

Compost is multi-faceted but not intended as a fertilizer. It offers only a relatively low proportion of nutrients, yet what it does is close to magical. In its finished form as mulch, it reduces evaporation, reduces or prevents weed growth, and insulates the soil from extreme temperature changes. Mulch also keeps the upper inches of the soil cooler in daytime and warmer at night.

Regardless of the particular ingredients, making compost is akin to making bread or beer; soil-digesting bacteria like yeasts need warmth, moisture, air and something to feed on to keep them alive and growing. Almost all of the practical problems associated with making compost stem from too much or too little of those basic factors.

Compost is created from layers of grass clippings, leaves, weeds, kitchen scraps and, if available, farm animal manure. If you have meat eaters in your home, don’t use their meat scraps as they will attract rodents. Also, do not use litter from your dog or cat; it doesn’t break down properly and contains too many pathogens.

Over the years, composting has gotten a reputation for being a time-consuming job, but this is not necessarily the case. You don’t need to build a big box or turn the pile every so often. A barrel, a hole in the ground or a pile on top of the ground is satisfactory.

The important requirement is to be sure the waste material is covered with soil, so it doesn’t attract rats, other rodents or flies. You can build your layers directly on the ground, without any frame at all; if you use a container, be sure it is well ventilated.

The trick to successful compost is balancing ingredients high in nitrogen; fresh grass clippings, other fresh, green plant matter, most kitchen scraps – with those high in carbon; leaves, straw, dried grass, washed eggshells, wheat germ or other milled grains that have become too rancid or old to use, and any dried, brown plant matter. Too much nitrogenous matter yields an anaerobic, smelly pile. Too much carbonaceous matter results in a pile that never heats up. The ideal ratio is one part nitrogen to three parts carbon.

Start with a layer of small twigs, no large branches, a couple of inches deep; this will help your pile to breathe. Then, keeping in mind the 1 to 3 ratio of nitrogen to carbon, add a layer of mixed plant material. You may enrich the pile with horse or cow manure. These materials don’t break down; they simply add nutrients to the final product. Then lightly water the pile so it’s evenly moist. Too much water will interfere with aeration; too little water and the pile won’t ferment. If your pile sits in the open, you should cover it if heavy rains are forecast. An 8-inch layer of straw mulch spread over the top of the pile serves the same purpose.

Alternate layers until the pile is 5 feet high by 5 feet wide by whatever length you choose. A properly made pile that is loosely packed and well aerated will reach an internal temperature of 160 degrees within a few days. It should smell like wet hay. If the pile fails to heat up, pull it apart and redo it by adding layers of fresh green matter. If the pile becomes anaerobic (is too wet to aerate), pull it apart, let it dry out, use it as mulch and start a new pile.

After three weeks, the pile will have shrunk in size; this is normal. Dig into the pile with a fork and completely turn it over until the contents are redistributed; the idea is to put unfermented particles in contact with those that are further along. Let the pile rest, so the temperature will rise again. Turn it a second time five weeks later, let it rest a few weeks and, with luck, you’ll have a rich, crumbly pile of “black gold.”

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