Time to Force your Rhubarb

Rhubarb is a vegetable (not fruit) loved by many and extremely easy to grow as long as you give it the room.

Rhubarb can be grown from seed sown in April but it is much better to plant “crowns” to ensure a good strong plant and fruitful crop. You can expect to get 5 to 10 years from your plant so they are very good value. The only drawback is that you will not be able to pull your crop until the plant is a couple of years old so you need to be patient in the early days.

Plant crowns during November and December ideally, but you can plant up to March.

We are going to order two varieties for our allotment Rhubarb ‘Fulton’s Strawberry Surprise’ which was voted the best flavoured Rhubarb in the RHS trials and Rhubarb ‘Victoria’ which will be ready to pull after 2 years.

When planting choose a sunny spot in the garden or on the allotment and dress each year with well-rotted compost or farmyard manure. Every five years or so lift each plant, divide into three or four smaller plants and replant or give some to your friends or neighbours.

Rhubarb does not have many troubles but it may suffer from Crown Rot where the buds begin to rot and the sticks become thin and dull. There is no cure for this so you will have to pull up the plants and burn them, don’t replant Rhubarb in the same area. You may also see signs of Honey Fungus; white streaks in the dead tissue of the crown and orange toadstools around the plants. Dig out all the roots and burn.

The sticks, or stalks, can be left to develop for pulling between April and July or they can be “forced” from December or January to provide a crop in February or March.

To force your crop just cover the plant with a upturned bucket or large plant pot with the hole covered up, or invest in a Rhubarb Forcer for a more elegant look. Here are a few examples from Crocus.co.uk.

£54.99	£59.99	£69.99

Planting a New Hedge

Question:

I have just removed an 8 meter long 2 + metre high leylandii and the stumps have been ground out. I want to plant an evergreen hedge as quick growing as possible, please can you advise a variety that might be suitable, and does the earth need feeding in preparation. The position is west facing.

Answer:

That sounds like a big job, but it will be worth it in the long run

One of the best true evergreen hedges is often though to be old fashioned but the Privet is fast growing and can tolerate poor soil so on-going soil enrichment isn’t as vital. New plants should be cut back hard after planting then it is just a matter of pruning to shape and to thicken until it reaches the required height, then prune twice a year to maintain.

Laurel (Prunus) also makes a good hedge (choose P. laurocerasus or P. lusitanica) but it does need plenty of room and should, ideally, be pruned with secateurs rather than shears to avoid cutting the large leaves.

Yew (Taxus baccata) makes a thick, dense hedge which can look beautiful if maintained regularly. Unfortunately it is very slow growing so may not be suitable.

There are lots of plants suitable for hedging so I have attached a link to Crocus.co.uk which shows a good variety of plants for you to look through. This will give you more information on each plant, a picture, care instructions and also tells you how large they grow so you can work out how many plants you will need. I trust it will be of use.

As for preparation, here are some pointers:

• Choose healthy plants either bare rooted or container grown, at this time of year and through to the end of spring, bare rooted plants will be best and they are a lot cheaper than pot grown.
• I assume since you have removed all the roots and stumps of the Leylandii that there is an empty trench. If so fill with top soil mixed with a good amount of well rotted farmyard manure which will add bulk and help drainage. This should be all you will need to do with the hedge for many years.
• When you get the plants home stand them in buckets of water until you are ready to plant them out, it is important that the roots don’t dry out.
• The plants will need some support until they get established so it is worth while erecting the support before you start planting. Stretch a thick wire down the length of the row, the plants will be attached to the wire. Alternatively use individual stakes for each plant.
• You have two ways of planting, single or double row. A staggered, double row will result in a thicker hedge more quickly.
• Plant at regular intervals in holes big enough not to constrict the roots, making sure that they are planted at the level of the old soil mark. Sprinkle a handful of bone meal into each planting hole. Push the soil gently around the roots using your fingers to ensure there are no air pockets below the roots, gradually fill the hole firming as you go.
• Water in very well and apply a mulch of well rotted farmyard manure to help retain moisture and keep down weeds.
• If the weather is dry you should water every day that you don’t get rain.
• Prune immediately after planting, check the label for details, but as a rule they should be reduced by half their height. There is no need to prune again during their first year.
• In the second year clip lightly about four times between May and August. This may seem that it is taking growth off the hedge and therefore it will take longer to grow, but this trimming is important to help thicken the plants and build a nice shape. You should be aiming to have the top narrower than the bottom, if the bottom is narrower it will be in too much shade and will eventually loose it’s leaves.
• Once the hedge has reached the height you want trim anytime between May and August to keep it tidy and maintain the shape. Try to leave some new growth each time you trim to avoid bare spots.

Once you decide on the plant you want, let me know what you have chosen and I’ll double check the exact pruning regime.

 

How to Grow Asparagus

This amazing vegetable is famously known for its gourmet taste, delicate flavour and unique texture and it is possible to grow it in your own garden.

You need to have a lot of patience with this vegetable as it takes a considerable amount of time to mature but the good news is that asparagus is a perennial vegetable which means they can stay productive for up to 20 years.

Gardening Direct have produced an easy step by step guide to help you start growing this great vegetable in your garden.

Asparagus  Click here for Asparagus Troubles
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Ferny foliage in summer but grown for its young shoots (spears) which appear in the spring. Will take two years for the first crop. Plant one year old crowns. Can be grown from seed but takes three years for cropping to begin. Plants will live for 8 to 20 years. Cut down stems in autumn. Do not remove spears during the first year. In the second year, once the spears are 4-5 ins they should be cut about 3 ins below the soil surface. Stop cutting mid June to allow the spears to develop for next year.
Mid March to end April	Mid March to end April	Soil type is not important as long as it is well drained and in a sunny, sheltered position.	Spread the crowns out over a 3ins deep mound in an 8ins deep trench about 12ins wide. Cover with 2ins soil and fill the trench gradually	Mid April to mid June	Will keep in a food bag in the fridge for up to three days but best to eat within an hour of cutting. Can be frozen.	Wash the spears and peel away the skin below the tips. Keep in a bowl of cold water until all spears are prepared. Tie into a bundle with string and trim the ends to level the bundle. Place upright in a pan of boiling, salted water. Cover and boil for 10-15 mins. Drain and serve. Alternatively steam.

Where should I plant my Asparagus?

Asparagus requires a lot of space to grow and flourish, so the ideal location would be a sunny, sheltered spot in a large garden or allotment space that is well sheltered from the wind but they can be grown in a raised bed to help provide the best conditions. Do not try to grow asparagus in pots, in clay soil or in shaded places.

When should I plant my Asparagus?

The best time to plant asparagus crowns is early April as long as the soil is not too cold or wet. Seeds should be sown during April.

How do I plant my Asparagus?

Good drainage is essential so dig over the area thoroughly during the autumn incorporating well rotted manure or garden compost. If your soil is on the acid side you may need to add some lime. Remove all weeds, weed roots and stones and leave it over the winter. In spring fork over the area and rake in a general fertiliser.

For the best results buy one year old crowns just before you are ready to plant; never let then dry out whilst you are waiting to plant them. Dig a trench approximately 30 cm wide and 20 cm in depth. Down the centre of the trench create a mound approximately 10cm high and place your Asparagus crowns along the top of the mound, making sure the plants don’t touch. Cover the crowns with 5cm of sifted soil and gradually fill in the trench as the plants grow. By autumn the trench should be level with the surrounding soil.

Keep the site weed free and provide support if needed.

How do I grow Asparagus from seed?

Growing Asparagus from seed is not the best way to raise a crop as it can take three years before harvesting can begin.

Sow seed thinly in 3cm deep drills about 30cm apart; thin seedlings to 15cm when they are about 7cm high. The strongest seedlings can be planted out in their final position the following spring.

When can I harvest Asparagus?

Harvesting Asparagus must not begin until the second year after planting; by this time the spears should have reached a height of 12cm. The ideal time to cut asparagus is during May and don’t cut after Mid June as the spears need time to develop reserves for next year.

Using a sharp, serrated kitchen knife or a special asparagus knife, cut 7cm below the soil surface. Don’t let the spears get too tall before cutting.

Asparagus Troubles
Trouble	Symptoms	Treatment	Prevention
Asparagus Beetle	Stems and leaves are eaten.	Spray with liquid Derris	None
Frost	Crop turns black and dies	None	Cover the crop with fleece if frost is expected
Rust	Reddish-brown sports appear on leaves during the summer.	Remove and burn affected shoots as soon as spots appear	None
Slugs	Spears are eaten.	Sprinkle area with slug pellets or add nematodes to your soil	Keep area clear of rubbish
Spindly Spears	Thin shoots produced instead of the usual thick spears.	None	Usually caused by cutting too long into the season. Don’t harvest after mid June.
Violet Root Rot	Roots covered with purple mould, leaves turn yellow and die.	If bad start again in a new site and don’t grow root crops in the same area. If possible isolate healthy plants.	None
Wind Rock	In exposed sites roots are loosened which can lead to rotting.	None	Provide support to stems or build windbreaks around the site

 

RHS Tatton Park Flower Show

Buy your tickets for the 2011 RHS Tatton Park Flower Show. This year’s show takes place between the 20th and the 24th July, ticket prices are:

Members

• In advance for Wednesday – £25.50
• In advance for Thursday to Sunday – £19.50
• On the day for Thursday to Sunday – £28

Highlights of this year’s show include:

• Fabulous collections of plants and flowers from leading nurseries
• Gardens inspired by the premier football teams of the region
• Over 30 children’s gardens and containers
• The exciting RHS National Young Garden Designer of the year returns again
• The College of the Year floristry competition
• Exclusive Ladies’ Day activities on Thursday
• Fine dining in a stunning setting with Fortnum & Mason

Visit the RHS website to find out more.

 

Plants in Our Garden – The Gardening Register Rose

For my birthday in 2008 I received a Name a Rose Gift Box which contained a number of rose seeds, a label and some instructions.

I sowed the seeds, following the instructions, and was very surprised that a number of them germinated. From those that did I managed to get two decent sized seedlings.

This photograph was taken in July 2009 when the plants were very small. I looked after them through the very cold winter and this summer I have two very good, healthy rose bushes, one with pink flowers, one with white.

In the Autumn I will prune them and re-pot them and hope for bigger specimens next year.

The final step in the gift process is to register the rose … so welcome to The Gardening Register. Whether I will ever be able to propagate more plants will remain to be seen but I’m very proud of the two I have managed to nurture of the past two years.

The photograph above is the property of Linda Peppin and must not be copied or used in any public work without her express permission.

Mistletoe isn’t just for Christmas

I have just come across a great website; Mistletoe Pages.

If, like me, you love mistletoe you’ll love this website too. It has lots of facts about mistletoe including the fact that the mistletoe we are all familiar with is just one of hundres of species worldwide. All are plant parasites, meaning that they grow as parasites on the branches of trees and shrubs. In Britain, most mistletoe grows on apple trees but it can also be found on poplars and willows.

For me Christmas wouldn’t be the same without Mistletoe but it would also be ideal for an early Spring wedding or as an unusual and romantic Valentines Day Gift!

How can I grow my own Mistletoe?

The first stage of Mistletoe germination is for the seed to adhere to the surface of the host, once this has happened the seedling begins to penetrate the host tissue.

1. The first thing to note is what not to do. Don’t cut flaps in a host tree and hide the seeds underneath, this is totally unnecessary. The important thing is that the host bark is healthy and that there is plenty of light
2. The second thing to note is that a lot of berries are needed to ensure success
3. Thirdly, time it right. There is better success in February and March
4. Finally, be patient. It will take some time to get a good sized plant; it will grow very slowly in the first four years but once it is established growth will speed up.
5. Remember that each plant will be either male or female so you will need at least two plants in order to produce berries

Begin growing your own.

1. Get some berries, either online from The English Mistletoe Shop or www.mistle.co.uk. Alternatively harvest berries from someone else’s plant in February, if this isn’t possible you can use your Christmas Mistletoe but keep the berries fresh by detaching them and leaving them in a shed until mid February then rehydrate them in a little water before sowing
2. In mid February take your berries and squeeze out each single seed along with some “juice”
3. Once you have your sticky seeds you need to choose your host tree. Apple is the best followed by poplars, limes, false acacia or hawthorn. Choose a young branch between 2 and 6cm in diameter
4. Stick some of the seeds onto the branch and label them so you don’t forget where you planted the seed
5. Plant at least twenty seeds on four or five branches
6. The seeds should have germinated by March or April but not all will have survived having been eaten by the birds. They will be tiny, green and look like small shoots. Even after a year they will be tiny so don’t forget where you put them or you could loose track of them
7. In year three you should begin to see proper leaves and will begin to grow more rapidly. Each year the number of branches on each plant will double

Grow-Your-Own Mistletoe Kits - An unusual romantic gift that grows! A pack of 40-50 fresh ripe mistletoe berries complete with illustrated growing instructions – so that you can try growing your very own mistletoe. Orders are taken anytime but will be only be dispatched from January.

Buy your Christmas Mistletoe from Gardening Express for just £6.95 for a large bunch.

Plants in Our Garden – Rosa “Remember Me”

I have a few roses in my garden but my favourite is the hybrid-tea Rosa “Remember Me”.

It’s main attraction are the deep orange coloured flowers and dark, glossy leaves. Unfortunately the flowers only have a slight scent but the look of the plant is enough.

It is an award-winning bush rose and does well in full sun with fertile, moist, well-drained soil. It is disease resistant and the blooms make excellent cut-flowers.

Buy your own Rosa “Remember Me” from Crocus.co.uk

The photograph above is the property of Linda Peppin and must not be copied or used in any public work without her express permission.

Busy day at the allotment

Allan (my brother) bought over his raspberries to plant on the border of our plot on the allotment. He got on with that while I sorted out the greenhouse. We decided to remove the remaining green tomatoes and compost the plants. If they ripen then great, if they don’t I’ll make some green tomato chutney for Christmas. Allan also dug over the new raised bed and we sowed some green manure to dig in in the spring. I dug up our remaining Anya potatoes and we sowed green manure into that bed too. The allotment looks clean and tidy and shouldn’t need too much attention now.

Brighten up your borders with Clematis

One of the most rewarding sights in my garden this year has been the Clematis.

Over the years I have planted a number of early and late flowering Clematis below my established shrubs which has meant that when you least expect it wonderfully coloured flowers emerge from the shrubs foliage.

Not all Clematis are suitable for this treatment, try the small-flowered species which flower in early spring on last season’s growth. The stems can look a little unsightly during the winter so grow these through evergreen shrubs to disguise the Clematis stems. Once they have finished flowering carefully remove dead or damaged stems, and reduce other stems if they are taking over the shrub. Every few years you can rejuvenate older plants by cutting down to 15-30cm (6-12in) from the base immediately after flowering. This will keep the clematis in check and avoid damaging the shrub it is growing through.

You can also try the late summer flowering varieties which flower on this years growth meaning that you can cut the whole plant down to a pair of strong buds 15-20cm (6-8in) above soil level, before growth begins in early spring leaving your shrub free to do its thing during early summer.

Saffron Crocus Bulbs have arrived

My Saffron Crocus bulbs arrived from Suttons just before my holiday so I have only just planted them. I chose to plant them in three medium sized bulb bowls so that I can keep them close to the house and keep my eye on them.

The instructions say they can be planted any time through to September but early August is the best time.

They should be ready to harvest from October but as mine were planted late it may be November before I can begin to collect the orange/red stigmas from the flowers.

Once harvested the plants should be left to die down naturally to allow the bulbs to regenerate for next year.

The stigmas will need to be dried out and will be able to be kept in an airtight jar for several years.

I’ll post an update once they are in flower.

Gardening Articles

Do you love your garden but not sure of the best way to prune your clematis, propagate plants for next year, make the best of your lawn or produce good quality compost?

If so then take a look at our gardening articles which we are sure will be useful to you. These articles are aimed at beginners and are written in the most simplistic way possible but if you require personal advice you can complete our Advice Form and we will email our response as quickly as possible.

• Aquatic Gardening, Ponds and Aquatic Plants
• Building Projects in the Garden
• Butterflies
• Composting in the Garden and the Kitchen
• Cut Flowers; Growing and Care
• Flowers and Plants
• Fruit and Vegetables
• Garden Birds and Wildlife
• Garden Maintenance Tasks
• Gardening for Children
• Green Gardening
• Greenhouse Gardening
• Lawn Care and Maintenance
• Outdoor Living
• Pests and Diseases
• Poisonous Plants
• Pruning
• Safety in the Garden
• Soil and Soil Improvement
• Types of Plants
• Weeds

Produce a colourful display in just a few weeks

Earlier in the year I decided to clear out a small bed which had become overgrown with conifers and ivy.

I dug out the roots and added some fertiliser and waited until the weather warmed up.

Over the last year or so I had accumulated a number of annual seed packets so in early June I took a small bucket, added some sharp sand and mixed all all the seeds.

Then, after watering, I scattered the seeds/sand mixture over the prepared area and covered it with garden netting to keep the birds away.

Within a couple of weeks the seedlings germinated and after another couple of weeks I was able to “prick out” the more densely sown areas.

Now in early July the bed is full of colour. Orange, yellow and pink Californian poppies and blue and white cornflowers and there are still lots of plants not yet in flower.

I would recommend this way of gardening to everyone; it’s easy, cheap and very rewarding.

I’ll post an update in a couple of weeks time when more flowers should be open.

The 12 Step Beginners Guide to Pruning

Not all shrubs require pruning but you may want to consider it in order to shape the plant, to encourage vigorous growth, flowering or fruit production or to remove dead, damaged or diseased material.

Here is a beginners guide to pruning:

1. Pruning is best carried out immediately after flowering to ensure a good display the following year but a general pruning in Autumn is also usual particularly for roses
2. Always cut at a downward angle to allow rain to fall away and not sit on the cut
3. Pruning to remove spent flower heads is always a good idea as it stops the plant spending energy producing seed
4. Always use good quality, sharp, clean tools
5. Cut out dead or diseased stems right down to where they reach the roots or main stem
6. Take out any stems that cross over other stems as they will eventually join together and cause injury which can let in disease
7. Take a look at the plant and decide what size and shape you want and bear this is mind throughout the pruning process
8. Take a stem and starting at the tip look along it’s length to where it reaches the base. The “nodes” you see along the length are where either leaves, new stems or flowers will appear; you won’t know in advance which of these it will be
9. By pruning just before a node (i.e. before when looking from the tip to the base) you stimulate a chemical at the node which tells the plant to shoot out from there and produce a flower, leaf or another stem
10. If you prune after a node the chances are that the stem will die back from the end down to the next node and may even continue down the stem
11. To hard prune, count the number of nodes up the stem from the base; you should leave at least two nodes to allow for die-back so pruning just before the third node is usually ideal; this type of pruning produces new growth and reinvigorates the plant
12. For an annual prune when you just want to keep the shrub in shape so you should cut just above the node needed to maintain the shape; this type of pruning usually produces flowers and new leaves the following season

Next you can find out more about pruning specific types of plants:

Evergreens – During May cut out dead, weak or crossing branches and remove extra branches if the shrub is overcrowded. Examples: Camellia, Pieris, Rhododendron -

Early Flowering Deciduous Shrubs – Immediately after flowering cut out dead, weak or crossing branches and remove extra branches if the shrub is overcrowded. Cut back all branches which have flowered this year. Examples: Forsythia, Weigela, Deutzia, Philadelphus

Later Flowering Deciduous Shrubs – During January to March before the new growth appears cut out dead, weak or crossing branches and remove extra branches if the shrub is overcrowded. Cut back all old wood to the ground. Examples: Buddleia, Hypericum, Cornus

Damaged or Diseased Trees – Identify the diseased or damaged branches and cut back to healthy, clean wood.

Clematis

Group 1 – these are small-flowered species which flower in early spring on last season’s growth Immediately after flowering remove dead or damaged stems, and reduce other stems if needed. To renovate an older plant cut back to 15-30cm (6-12in) from the base immediately after flowering

Group 2 – large-flowered, flowering May-June on the previous year’s growth. Some flower again in summer on current season’s growth. Remove dead and damaged stems in early spring before growth begins, trimming all remaining stems to a pair of strong buds. To rejuvenate a mature specimen remove old shoots during spring

Group 3 – flowers late summer on current season’s growth. Cut back all growth to a pair of strong buds 15-20cm (6-8in) above soil level, before growth begins in early spring

13 Steps to Building a Garden Pond

There are several points you need to consider before building your pond: Should it be formal or informal, natural or modern? Do you want to keep fish, grow plants or attract wildlife? Are there children to keep safe?

Once you have answered these questions you need to decide where you want to site the pond or water feature bearing in mind the following:  A pond should be kept away from big trees and shrubs so ensure their roots don’t puncture the lining and to avoid leaves falling into the water. If you want to keep fish you need to have a pretty deep pond to stop it freezing over the winter. The smallest you should build a pond is 60cm (2ft) deep and 1 x 1.5m (3 x 5ft) across; however, the bigger the better.

Now you can begin building:

1. The easiest way to build a pond is to use a butyl rubber or plastic sheet. To work out how much to buy:
   • • • • Dig your pond to the size and shape required then measure the length, width and the deepest point
         • Multiply the depth by two and add to the length then again to the width
         • Add 50cm (20in) for overlap on both the length and the width
         • This is the size of sheet you need
2. When digging the pond ensure that the bottom is firm and flat and free from stones. At least part of it needs to be 60cm (2ft) deep for fish and deep-water plants the rest can be 45cm (18ins) deep
3. Build in some shelves around the sides 15cm (6ins) wide and 20cm (8ins) below the surface
4. Slope one side to allow wildlife to escape
5. Ensure that all pond sides are level by using a spirit level, don’t use your eye
6. Spread 2.cm (1in) of soft sand over the base, shelves and slopes then cover with pond underlay followed by the liner
7. Add a layer of poor garden or aquatic soil to the bottom of the hole for planing deep aquatics
8. Start filling the pond from a hose or water butt
9. Once full, trim the liner to 30cm (1ft) overlap
10. Cover the overlap with paving stones or turf ensuring that the liner is not exposed to the sun as it will rot
11. If possible add a bucket of water from a healthy, established pond to help speed up the colonization process
12. Leave for about a week before planting and six weeks before introducing fish
13. If you wish to attract wildlife to your garden then don’t add fish as they tend to eat the insect larvae

Looking after your Pond

Spring: most ponds will turn green in spring but it will clear itself in a few weeks. However, new ponds could remain green for up to twelve months. Pull out blanketweed and leave on the side for a day or so to allow creatures to escape back into the pond. Remove duckweed with a small fishing net.

Summer: Feed fish between May and September. Pull out oxygenators if they threaten to take over the entire pond.

Autumn: Remove excess silt from the bottom of the pond leaving about 1 inch to allow plants to root. Remove floating plants once the die, cut down marginals and pull out dead lily leaves. Keep autumn leaves out of the pond by covering with a net.

Winter: If you keep fish place a plastic ball on the surface to avoid the pond freezing over totally. If you don’t keep fish there is no winter maintenance required.

For more information on Aquatic Gardening visit the following articles: Aquatic Gardening and Pond Plants

Horsetail / Mare’s tail (Equisetum arvense)

Question:

I hope you can help, My family and I have just moved into a nice house in Kent and look forward to enjoying our new garden especially with our new daughter who is currently 6 months old. The problem I have is that the garden seems to be infested with a strange mushroom like plant. I dont think it is a mushroom though and am worried that it might be of danger to my daughter or pets. The plant/mushroom whatever is brown in colour and had a hard top/cap to it. The seem to be growing everywhere, in the grass, between the house and patio, in gaps in the patio… everywhere really.

Answer:

When I first saw your photographs I was stumped but with a little research I found that it is indeed Horsetail or Mare’s tail (Equisetum arvense). It changes its appearance throughout the year; by summer the “mushroom” looking tops will be replaced with green fir-like stems which you will probably recognise.

It is not a danger to people or animals but it is very difficult to eradicate as it has creeping rhizomes which can go as deep as 2m below the surface and often spreads underground from neighbouring properties or land.

Removal by hand is difficult but you may be able to remove some of the rhizomes growing near the surface with a fork. However the more deeper roots will take a lot of digging and it is worth remembering that if even a small piece of root remains in the ground it will grow on quite quickly. Over a number of years you can reduce the spread by removing young shoots as soon as they appear above the ground. Any growing in your lawn can be kept down by regular mowing.

It is possible to weaken the infestation using weedkiller but you will need to be careful when using near other plants or the lawn. Try weedkillers containing glyphosate, e.g. Roundup or Tumbleweed; applying in late summer when growth is strong. You can also try Glufosinate ammonium, e.g. FITO Garden Weedkiller and Knockdown Weedkiller which may also weaken the root system. In all cases, before using, bruise the shoots to ensure that the weedkiller penetrates effectively and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.

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We have Ground Elder!

The Gardening Register garden is gradually being taken over by Ground Elder.

I first noticed it last year but it was just a small patch. The smart thing would have been to dig it all out there and then but I didn’t.

This year the patch has tripled in size so I now have my work cut out for me.

Ground Elder is an invasive, perennial weed which spreads using underground stems or rhizomes. It dies down each winter and reappears in the spring and flowers with flat headed white flowers in early summer. Usually the leaves are dark green but they can also be variegated.

Because this plant creeps along under the soil it can easily creep in from wasteland or neighbours’ gardens. It can also be bought into your garden tucked away amongst the roots of other plants bought from friends or even garden centres.

The rhizomes are white so can be seen quite easily making it possible to remove it using a garden fork. However be very careful as leaving just a minute amount of root in the soil will result in a new plant, and so it goes on.

Controlling this weed is difficult but possible with time and patience.

• If possible lift any cultivated plants from the area and carefully remove any ground elder rhizones from in and around the rootball. Keep the plant moist while you treat the rest of the area.
• Dig over the area removing all evidence of the rhizomes. Cover the area with black polythene and check regularly for regrowth.
• Alternatively spray the area with a weedkiller containing glyphosate such as Roundup or Tumbleweed being careful not to get any weedkiller on other plants. This is best done when there is lots of leafy growth in mid to late summer.







• The RHS also recommend using the residual soil-acting weedkiller dichlobenil (e.g. Casoron G4 Weed Barrier) in early spring. This can be applied to the soil around some trees and shrubs, without causing them damage.
• Always read the instructions before using any weedkiller.
• Once all sign of the weed has gone you can replant the area.
• If it is in the lawn it is not a problem as regular mowing will soon weaken the plants and destroy them.

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Kniphofia (Red Hot Pokers)

Question:

My red hot pokers have grown annually without much attention. This year the crowns appear to have rotted. The roots seem quite strong. Is there anything I can do? They are usually in full bloom in May/June/July.

Answer:

Kniphofia are usually very reliable as you say however they are susceptible to rotting off if they get too wet for too long. I suspect our bad winter has caused this.

If the roots are strong, as you say, I would lift the plant and divide it into 2 or 3 smaller plants.

You can either replant in the same area but in a bigger hole or move 1 or 2 to another area of the garden.

Before replanting add a good layer of grit to the bottom of the planting hole to ensure good drainage and add a good layer of well rotted manure around the crown.

It is unlikely that they will flower this year but they should give a good display next year.

Green Gardening

Give your garden a green makeup this summer; saving you money and cutting down on waste.

Keeping your garden looking great can come at a cost, here are some ideas to keep your garden “green”:

• According to the Energy Saving Trust using sprinklers to water your garden can use up to 18 litres of water per minute, more water than a typical family of four will use in a day.

• Fit your hosepipe with a trigger gun to reduce the amount of water you use.

• When possible use a watering can to significantly cut water waste

• Water in the evening or early morning to extend the length of time before the soil dries out and therefore allowing the water to reach right down to the roots

• Giving your plants a good soaking once or twice a week is much better than watering a little, more often.

• Buy a water butt and collect rainwater to water the garden. As well as being “greener” it is also more beneficial to the plants.

• To find out more about setting up a water butt visit the Waterwise website.

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• Make your own compost, once you’ve got your bin, home compost is essentially free
• Use compost as mulch to help preserve moisture, replenish nutrients and keep weeds down. Spread a 5 centimetre layer around the base of your plants
• Mix fine compost with an equal amount of sharp sand and brush into your lawn after forking thoroughly
• Don’t use compost around soft-stemmed plants and wait until young plants are more established
• Take a look at our Composting pages for more information on how you can recycle your kitchen and garden waste

• Try not to use harmful pesticides and herbicides by using organic controls

• Bury some plastic containers around the garden, fill with beer and place a loose cover over the top. Slugs will be attracted to the beer and drown. Replace the beer every few days.

• Lay a piece of cardboard, thick newspaper or old carpet over weeds to smother them.

• Certain plants can repel pests, plant them at the same time as the edible crops to prevent pests getting a foothold:

  • Planting marigolds and garlic in with your roses and tomatoes to deter aphids.

  • Grow carrots and leeks together to drive away each other’s pests.

  • Plant nasturtium with cabbages; the nasturtiums will attract the caterpillars and leave the cabbages alone.

  • Grow dill to attract aphid-eating hoverflies

• Don’t be too fussy about weeds; if they are not taking over and don’t look too bad then leave them, remove the flower heads to stop them producing weeds.

Gardening in Raised Beds

As gardeners we love to be outside in the garden either planting, digging, pruning or doing one of the many other jobs that always need doing.

However, I also think that what we would all agree is that it can be back-breaking!

One of the best ways to reduce wear and tear on your back is to plant in containers or to install a series of Raised Beds. Indeed if you like to grow vegetables or have an allotment then growing in Raised Beds is often the best way to succeed.

The advantages of Raised Beds:

• able to grow in otherwise unsuitable soil or locations
• improved drainage and soil structure
• extra height of soil increases rooting depth
• cloches, tunnels or frames can easily be erected over the beds
• no need to walk on the soil
• you can work at a comfortable height
• especially handy for wheelchair users and those with back problems
• soil compaction is greatly reduced if not eliminated
• close planting creates a micro-climate which leads to healthy plants and bigger crops.

Take a look at this short video from Harrod Horticultural which shows you the advantages of gardening in raised beds:

If you are good at DIY then you should be able to build your own Raised Beds as they did on Gardeners World (click here to see how to build your own).

However, these days there are quite a number of easy to assemble, low maintenance plastic Link-a-Bord kits available on the market which make starting your Raised Bed Garden so much more quick and easy. Harrod Horticulture has a number of different Raised Bed Kits available as well as a wide range of accessories such as Hoops, Covers, Liners and Irrigation Kits so take a look now to find your ideal solution:

Standard Timber Raised Beds	Superior Timber Raised Beds	Allotments Timber Raised Beds	Corner Timber Raised Beds	Manger Raised Planter	Timer Raised Bed Tables

To complete your new garden you will need top soil:

Rolawn Vegetable & Fruit Topsoil is a fertile, organic rich, friable topsoil derived from prime arable land and a consistent organic matter, which ensures consistent results.  A bulk bag is exceptional value containing up to 50% more product than 1 tonne of ordinary topsoil  covering up to 20m² at a depth of 50mm. Also, there is currently a  multi-buy discount on orders of 2 bags or more. Order Now!

So whether you’re completely new to raised bed gardening, or you’re experienced in this simple, easy and highly effective way of growing, there’ll be something for you here…

Plant of the Month – Camelia

Camellias are wonderful plants giving amazing splashes of colour on bleak February days. This year, in my garden at least, the Camellias are very late in flowering due to the exceptionally cold winter and early Spring.

Despite the late flowers the glossy dark green foliage, which remains throughout the year, has been a welcome sight.

The camellia in the picture has been growing in a container in my North facing garden for about eight years and always rewards me with lots of these deep pink flowers during late Winter and early Spring which I’m really looking forward to. The variety is Camellia x Williamsii Debbie which you can buy from Gardening Express for just £12.95 for a 3.5l plant.

Camellias are well suited for pots and containers, but they need acid compost, a reasonably large pot and regular watering to thrive. Once the flowers have faded they drop off the plant meaning no dead-heading, making this shrub a practically maintenance free plant.

Below are a selection of Camellia on sale at Crocus.co.uk, click on the pictures for more information: 

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