How to Grow Asparagus

This amazing vegetable is famously known for its gourmet taste, delicate flavour and unique texture and it is possible to grow it in your own garden.

You need to have a lot of patience with this vegetable as it takes a considerable amount of time to mature but the good news is that asparagus is a perennial vegetable which means they can stay productive for up to 20 years.

Gardening Direct have produced an easy step by step guide to help you start growing this great vegetable in your garden.

Asparagus  Click here for Asparagus Troubles
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Ferny foliage in summer but grown for its young shoots (spears) which appear in the spring. Will take two years for the first crop. Plant one year old crowns. Can be grown from seed but takes three years for cropping to begin. Plants will live for 8 to 20 years. Cut down stems in autumn. Do not remove spears during the first year. In the second year, once the spears are 4-5 ins they should be cut about 3 ins below the soil surface. Stop cutting mid June to allow the spears to develop for next year.
Mid March to end April	Mid March to end April	Soil type is not important as long as it is well drained and in a sunny, sheltered position.	Spread the crowns out over a 3ins deep mound in an 8ins deep trench about 12ins wide. Cover with 2ins soil and fill the trench gradually	Mid April to mid June	Will keep in a food bag in the fridge for up to three days but best to eat within an hour of cutting. Can be frozen.	Wash the spears and peel away the skin below the tips. Keep in a bowl of cold water until all spears are prepared. Tie into a bundle with string and trim the ends to level the bundle. Place upright in a pan of boiling, salted water. Cover and boil for 10-15 mins. Drain and serve. Alternatively steam.

Where should I plant my Asparagus?

Asparagus requires a lot of space to grow and flourish, so the ideal location would be a sunny, sheltered spot in a large garden or allotment space that is well sheltered from the wind but they can be grown in a raised bed to help provide the best conditions. Do not try to grow asparagus in pots, in clay soil or in shaded places.

When should I plant my Asparagus?

The best time to plant asparagus crowns is early April as long as the soil is not too cold or wet. Seeds should be sown during April.

How do I plant my Asparagus?

Good drainage is essential so dig over the area thoroughly during the autumn incorporating well rotted manure or garden compost. If your soil is on the acid side you may need to add some lime. Remove all weeds, weed roots and stones and leave it over the winter. In spring fork over the area and rake in a general fertiliser.

For the best results buy one year old crowns just before you are ready to plant; never let then dry out whilst you are waiting to plant them. Dig a trench approximately 30 cm wide and 20 cm in depth. Down the centre of the trench create a mound approximately 10cm high and place your Asparagus crowns along the top of the mound, making sure the plants don’t touch. Cover the crowns with 5cm of sifted soil and gradually fill in the trench as the plants grow. By autumn the trench should be level with the surrounding soil.

Keep the site weed free and provide support if needed.

How do I grow Asparagus from seed?

Growing Asparagus from seed is not the best way to raise a crop as it can take three years before harvesting can begin.

Sow seed thinly in 3cm deep drills about 30cm apart; thin seedlings to 15cm when they are about 7cm high. The strongest seedlings can be planted out in their final position the following spring.

When can I harvest Asparagus?

Harvesting Asparagus must not begin until the second year after planting; by this time the spears should have reached a height of 12cm. The ideal time to cut asparagus is during May and don’t cut after Mid June as the spears need time to develop reserves for next year.

Using a sharp, serrated kitchen knife or a special asparagus knife, cut 7cm below the soil surface. Don’t let the spears get too tall before cutting.

Asparagus Troubles
Trouble	Symptoms	Treatment	Prevention
Asparagus Beetle	Stems and leaves are eaten.	Spray with liquid Derris	None
Frost	Crop turns black and dies	None	Cover the crop with fleece if frost is expected
Rust	Reddish-brown sports appear on leaves during the summer.	Remove and burn affected shoots as soon as spots appear	None
Slugs	Spears are eaten.	Sprinkle area with slug pellets or add nematodes to your soil	Keep area clear of rubbish
Spindly Spears	Thin shoots produced instead of the usual thick spears.	None	Usually caused by cutting too long into the season. Don’t harvest after mid June.
Violet Root Rot	Roots covered with purple mould, leaves turn yellow and die.	If bad start again in a new site and don’t grow root crops in the same area. If possible isolate healthy plants.	None
Wind Rock	In exposed sites roots are loosened which can lead to rotting.	None	Provide support to stems or build windbreaks around the site

 

Make your own Fat Feeders for the Birds

This week I made my own fat feeders and it was surprisingly easy and cheaper than buying them. Here’s how I made mine:

• I had bought four coconut feeders a few weeks ago so once they were empty I washed them out to use as my containers. Once they are empty I’ll reuse them again.
• I melted 250g of lard in a saucepan.
• Whilst waiting for the fat to melt, using a food processor, I mixed up a couple of slices of bread, peanuts and sultanas until the size of breadcrumbs.
• To the dry ingredients I added some mixed bird seed and some dried insects until I had 500g in total.
• Once the fat had melted I added the dry ingredients and mixed well.
• I spooned the mixture into the containers then put them in the fridge until set then hung them out for the birds to enjoy.

You don’t need to follow my method to the letter, the dry ingredients can be anything you like as long as you don’t use anything salty i.e. no bacon and no salted peanuts. Bits of apple or green vegetables such as cabbage or broccoli would be good too.

Avoid using bread or whole peanuts during the spring when young birds are about or when parents may take food into the nest.

Also, if you don’t have used coconut feeders you can use clean yoghurt cartons; just put a hole in the base, thread through some string and knot it below the base to keep it in place. When filling the pots ensure that the string lies down the middle of the mixture with enough left over to enable it to be tied up.

In all I think it took me 15 minutes to make four feeders which I think is time well spent.

To make your own fat feeders you will need supplies; Garden Bird Supplies always have good quality feed at good prices:

Fruit and Veg Planting Guide

It doesn’t matter whether you’re a novice or an experienced and keen gardener, anyone can grow their own fruit and veg.

This guide from Gardening Direct will help you create an amazing kitchen garden, ready for you to pick your own produce.

If ordering your stock by mail, phone or online it is important to unpack your plug plants as soon as they arrive or as soon as you are ready to start planting.

Remember if you have any left over boxes, tear them up and add them to your compost heap.

Plug Plants

Your plug plants should be placed in a light, frost free area. Make sure that the plants are watered gently either by misting or by standing in a shallow tray of water. Allow your plug plants to rest for at least 24 hours.

Medium Plug Plants (In quantities of 42 and 63)

For you to get the best out of your medium plug plants they should be planted in slightly larger containers and allowed to grown on for a further 2-3 weeks before planting them in their final position.

• Ensure the plants are well watered
• Fill small pots (approximately 3 inches) with a non soil based compost
• Use a pencil to push the individual cells out of the tray provided. Gently pull up by taking one of the leaves. Try not to grab the stem as this could seriously damage the plant
• Use the pencil to make a tiny hole in the compost and place the cell in gently. Ensure that the leaf and stem joint is above soil level
• Water immediately after transplanting and place the plants in a location out of direct sunlight
• After one week start feeding the plant with liquid feed and keep well watered
• After 3 weeks the plants should be ready to plant out keeping the top of the plug level with the soil surface. Once planted, water generously

Large sized Plug Plants (Ordered in quantities of 5, 10 and 24)

Large Plug Plants can be planted into their final location on arrival. Water the root ball or tray well and leave to ‘rest‘ for 24 hours, plant into final position with the top of the root ball level with the soil surface. Water in well and feed regularly with a liquid feed for best results.

Alternatively, for faster results, they can be treated in a similar way as Medium Plug Plants, above.

Seeds

Keep the seed packets sealed and store in a dark, dry and cool place until they are going to be sown. Always refer to seed packet for correct sowing times.

Sowing Outdoors:

• Sow straight into desired growing location in rows as per individual instructions
• Cover the seeds with either plastic or fleece to encourage germination
• Thin the seedlings as stated in the individual instructions, removing any small or week seedlings

Sowing indoors:

• For small seeds (e.g. Lettuce and Strawberries) scatter thinly and evenly over a tray of compost
• For medium sized seeds (e.g. Courgette and Tomatoes) push seeds gently into compost in a seed tray
• For large seeds (e.g. Beans and Peas):
  
  • Fill a tray with compost and push each individual seed gently into the compost about 2cm apart
  • Sit the tray in shallow water until the compost is moist
  • Remove tray from water and place the tray in a warm, bright position out of direct sunlight
  • Once seeds have germinated and have between 2 and 4 leaves, gently thin the seedlings by removing the smallest and weakest seedlings
  • When plants have reached around 10 – 20cm tall they can be transplanted to small pots
  • Grow on for a further 3 weeks then plant out into the final position following the individual planting instructions provided

Potatoes

Seed Potatoes should be placed in a sack and stored in a cool and dry place until they are to be planted. If you wish to “chit” your potatoes rub off the unwanted shoots and just leaving three or four shoots on one end of the potato. If the potatoes have no shoots they need to be left in a dry and dark place for 2 – 3 weeks, by that time shoots should have appeared.

Plant out into rows in previously well-dug and fertilised soil. As the plant begins to grow gradually build up the soil around each plant, stop this once each mound is around 25cm high. When building the level of the soil up always ensure that most of the plant is still exposed.

Gardening Direct’s Fruit and Veg Range

Click to see our Fruit and Vegetable Plants and Seeds

Also, below is Garden Direct’s Planting Guide covering the most popular crops, if you would like your own copy of this guide download it here in pdf format.

Plant	Planting Distance	Row Distance	Planting Depth	Preferred Site	Advice
Potatoes – 1st Early	30cm	80cm	15cm	Full sun to partial shade and fertile well-drained pre-dug soil.	Plant straight outdoors in mid-March into pre-dug soil. As the plant grows gradually heap the soil around it to 20-30cm above ground level. Harvest: June – November.
2nd Early	30cm	80cm	15cm
Main Crop	35cm	80cm	15cm
Broad Beans	20cm	60cm	4cm	Full sun and fertile well drained soil.	Plug plants: Make individual holes for each plant, gently firm into the ground and water in. Regularly water and feed. Seeds: Sow under cloches in February or outdoors in March. Harvest: June – September.
Climbing French Beans	20cm	20cm	5cm	Full sun and fertile well drained soil. Sheltered site.	Plug plants: Plant out after risk of frost. Make an individual hole for each plant and stagger in double rows. Provide canes for climbing beans. Water and feed regularly. Sucessional sowing/planting recommended. Sow seed indoors in April or outdoors in late May. Harvest: July – September.
Dwarf French Beans	20cm	20cm	5cm
Runner Beans	15cm	60cm	5cm	Sheltered sunny position with fertile well drained soil.	Plug plants: Plant out after risk of frost. Make an individual hole for each plant, gently firm into the ground and water in. Provide secure canes or tepee, water and feed regularly. Sow seed indoors in April or outdoors in late May. Harvest July – late September.
Peas	5cm	In drills 12-15cm wide	5cm	Sheltered sunny position with fertile well drained soil.	For best results sow in large drills. Position seeds about 5cm apart and cover back over with soil. Water well. Provide climbing support. Plant in succession. Sow seed indoors in April or outdoors in late May. Harvest: July – September.
Cabbage	Sow thinly then transplant to 45 cm apart.	15cm apart, then transplant to 45cm apart	1cm	Full sun and fertile well drained pre-dug soil	Plug plants: Plant out in August for Spring harvesting or May for summer harvesting. Make an individual hole for each plant and gently firm into the ground. Water well straight away. Seeds: For spring harvesting sow in July or August, for summer harvesting sow in March or April. Thin seedlings to about 8cm apart. Once they have 5-6 leaves transplant to 45cm apart.
Broccoli	Plant plug plants 45cm apart.
Cauliflower	Sow thinly then transplant to 60 cm apart. Plant plug plants 60cm apart.	15cm apart, then transplant to 60cm apart	1 – 2cm	Full sun and fertile well drained pre-dug soil.	Plug plants: Plant out in June for Autumn/Winter harvesting or May for Summer/Autumn harvesting. Make an individual hole for each plant and gently firm into the ground. Keep well watered. Seeds: For Autumn/Winter harvesting sow outdoors in June, for Summer/Autumn harvesting sow in April or May. Thin seedlings to about 8cm apart. Once they have 5-6 leaves transplant to 45cm apart.
Brussels Sprouts	Sow thinly. Plant plug plants 75cm apart.	15cm	1cm	Full sun and fertile well drained soil.	Plug plants: Plant out in May-June leaving 75cm between plants. Make an individual hole for each plant, gently firm into the ground and water in. Seeds: Sow in March-April, thin the seedlings to 10cm apart then transplant in May-June leaving 75cm between plants. Harvest: August – February.
Tomatoes	Sow thinly. Plant plug plants 45cm apart.	75cm	1cm	Full sun and a sheltered spot in a fertile well drained soil or compost.	Plug plants: Plant outdoor varieties straight out in late May-June, or indoor varieties in April-May under glass. Make an individual hole for each plant and firm into the ground/container/grow bag. Ensure the plants are kept well watered and fed throughout the season. Seeds: Indoor types: Sow in January or February. Outdoor types: Sow in March-April. Harvest: June – September.
Chilies & Peppers		45cm
Herbs	15cm	15cm	1cm	Prefers sun and well drained soil.	Plug plants: Plant out in late May after risk of frost. Make a small hole for each plug plant, firm into the ground and water in. Keep well watered and fed throughout the season. Harvest: Throughout Summer.
Lettuce	Sow thinly.	30cm	1cm	Full sun and a fertile well drained soil.	Plug plants: Plant out in late May after risk of frost. Make a small hole for each plug plant, firm into the ground and water in. Keep well watered and fed throughout the season. Harvest: throughout Summer.
Salad
Onions	In 2cm drills	In 2cm drills	25cm	Full sun and a fertile well drained soil.	Sow directly to growing site from April onwards or indoors from February. Remove the smaller/weaker seedlings as they grow. Keep well watered and fed throughout the Summer. Harvest: May onwards.
Salad Onions	2cm	2cm	10cm
Cucumber Diana	30cm	Pots or growbags		Humid (indoors) fertile, moisture retentive soil.	Make an individual hole for each plant and gently firm into the compost. This variety must be grown indoors, plant into pots or growbags. Keep well watered and feed with tomato fertiliser. Soak the floor of the greenhouse twice a day to maintain level of humidity. Harvest: June – September.
Melon
Cucumber La Diva and Burpless tasty green.	30cm	45cm	2cm	Full sun and fertile moisture retentive soil.	Plug plants: Pre-dig holes with organic matter 30cm deep by 45cm wide. Mound each hole and plant 2-3 plug plants on each. Provide with a frame and train the plants to it. Water regularly and feed with tomato fertiliser. Seeds: Sow straight outside in growing postion. Prepare ground in same way as planting plug plants. Harvest: July – September.
Courgette	90cm	90cm	1cm	Full sun and fertile well drained soil.	Plug plants: Plant directly into growing site in June, make a hole for each plant and gently firm into the ground. Water and feed regularly. Seeds: Sow indoors: April. Transplant to growing site in June. Harvest: July – September.
Swede	Sow thinly	40cm	2cm	Full sun and fertile well drained soil.	Seeds: Thin seedlings until a 25cm spacing is created between plants. Regular watering is required. Sow May or June. Harvest: September – October.
Turnip	In 2cm drills	25 – 30cm	1cm	Full sun and fertile well drained soil.	Seeds: Thin seedlings gradually until 15cm spacing is achieved. Do not sow in May or June to avoid bolting. Keep well watered. Sow: July, August. Harvest: November – December.
Carrots	In 4cm drills	15cm	1 – 2cm	Full sun and fertile well drained soil.	Seeds: To deter Carrot Fly avoid thinning out, sow carefully so thinning is not necessary. Water regularly. Sow: Under cloches in March or unprotected in May. Harvest: June – September.
Beetroot	In 2cm drills	30cm	2cm	Full sun and fertile well drained soil.	Seeds: Thin seedlings to achieve 10cm between plants. Keep weed free and water regularly. Sow: Either under cloches in February or unprotected from April – June. Harvest: July – late September.
Leeks	15cm	30cm	15cm	Prefer a sunny aspect and well drained soil.	Plug plants: Position each plant into individual holes in late May, water into each hole – do not fill the hole back in. Harvest: September onwards.
Sweet Corn	30cm	30cm	5cm	Full sun and fertile well drained soil.	Plant outdoors in late May or June. Make individual holes for each plant and gently firm into the ground. Plant in blocks instead of rows. Water regularly, especially once cobs begin to form. Harvest: Remove a section of husk and squeeze a kernel, when the juice is milky the cob is ready.
Asparagus	20cm	60cm	20cm	Full sun and fertile well drained soil.	Position in trenches 20cm deep and 30cm wide, cover over with 5cm of soil. As the plants grow gradually fill the trench back in always leaving the very top of the plant showing. Cut back the foliage when yellow in Autumn. Harvest: 3rd season when tender.
Strawberries	20cm	20cm	5cm	Full sun and fertile well drained soil.	Plant out into hanging baskets, pots or the ground in late-May to June. Surround the base of the plant with straw (when planting in the ground). Water each plant in generously. Keep well watered and fed throughout the season. Harvest: July – September.

Take the stress out of Garden mess

Watch this video for Jenny Powell’s top tips for summer garden happiness

Summer is well on its way. But is your garden prepared for the season ahead?

After a long cold winter many of us will have neglected our patio and decking and chances are it won’t be ready for those many barbeques and summer parties. So how do you turn a sorry state into a paradise which you won’t be embarrassed to invite your guests to?

Jenny Powell knows a thing or two about a tidy home and garden and can turn any neglected patch into a wonderland. With a bit of elbow grease and some creative ideas you too can have a garden to be proud of.

But if the idea of a few hours of sweeping leaves you in a cold sweat, panic not, there is an easier solution! Pressure washers easily blast off moss and dirt and take just seconds to turn your grimy garden into a glorious garden. Thankfully Kärcher provides the answer. Their Pressure Washer is the essential cleaning product for all of that dirty garden furniture and mucky paths and patios.

Once your garden is gleaming, pots, scented candles and new plants can help bring a new lease of life. So roll up your sleeves and get stuck in.

In the following video, Jenny shares her top tips for a perfect plot.

http://www.linkto.tv/iframe/show/uuid/9VaFw0o2fPs

Visit Tooled-Up for a selection of Karcher Pressure Washers and until 31st May you can get £5 off orders over £50 using code MAYDISSFIVE or £10 off orders over £100 using code MAYDISSTEN

How to Grow Fragrant Sweet Peas

Sweet Peas are one of the most popular plants for UK gardens. They are annuals so only last the one summer but the display they give is always amazing; lots and lots of colourful, usually fragrant, flowers growing on bright green stems up to 6-7ft in height. Wonderful!

As an added bonus they are very easy to grow; you can sow the seed directly into the ground or bring them on in the greenhouse or you can buy small plants from your local garden centre.

Before sowing, either indoors or outdoors, soak the seed overnight in warm water.

Sowing where they are to Flower

• Choose a sunny, sheltered site and incorporate some well-rotted manure to enrich the soil, particularly if you have sandy soil. If you have heavy soil add some grit to help with drainage.
• Wait until all risk of frost has passed, usually March or April, then just pop the seed in the ground about 2.5cm deep.
• Give them some support and a good watering and you should have flowers by July.

Bringing on in Pots

• Seed can be sown either from late September to November or during January or February.
• Choose deep pots, root trainers or toilet roll tubes to give a long root run.
• For best results use named varieties or cultivars and a good quality, free draining, potting compost.
• Sow three seeds to a 7.5cm (3ins) pot, 1cm deep.
• Place the pots in a cold frame or greenhouse at around 20-25C (68-77F) until after germination which should take 10-20 days.
• Pinch out the growing tip when about 8cm tall to produce bushier plants.
• Harden off gradually before planting in their final position.
• Plant in a rich, free draining soil in a sunny position.

Looking after the Plants

• Keep them well watered during dry spells.
• Apply well-rotted manure occasionally throughout the season.
• Slugs, snails and mice love sweet pea seedlings so take the necessary precautions.
• Pick the flowers or deadhead regularly throughout the summer to ensure plenty of flowers.

If you are interested in growing Sweet Peas and would like to know more why not join the National Sweet Pea Society. Their six-monthly Bulletins often contain articles relating to Sweet Pea plant diseases.

ORDER YOUR SWEET PEA PLANTS AND SEEDS

Links: Gardening Supplies

General Gardening Supplies; compost, pots, propagating supplies, storage, fertilisers, gifts and more

Hallstone Direct are the UK’s leading supplier of cheap topsoil Hallstone Direct – The leading supplier of cheap topsoil in the UK!

 

Rolawn turf is the finest quality turf around Rolawn Turf – Europe’s largest cultivator of premium quality turf as well as suppliers of lawn turf seed, topsoil, bark and compost

 

Hydroponics
Hydroponics grow shop offers a wide range of hydroponic supplies, Lights, Tents and other hydroponics equipment at our hydro world Birmingham, UK. For any query contact us on 01213280876

Hanging baskets, planters, topiary and more to make your garden special
Garden Deco has everything you need decorate your garden for spring, summer, autumn and winter. Hanging baskets, planters and containers, garden obelisks, garden ornaments, unusual garden decor and christmas garden decorations.

The Cottage Gardener
Traditional garden products, homewares and garden gifts

The Lichfield Planter Company design and manufacture garden products
The Lichfield Planter Company design and manufacture garden products. The designs are intended to give a Victorian feel to your garden. All the products are attractive and are manufactured in the UK in our own workshops.

direct supplier of best lawn edgings, path edgings raised beds and more recycled products
You can do few things with less time, less effort and much more fun. But to be wise it is always better to start saving today or before. At best4garden a garden designer bring to you many solutions that will last many years, free videos to watch free information and many solutions, at direct prices with a satisfaction guarantee. Visit us, install and start saving the hard work.

PoshCloche Garden Cloches
Cloches for garden plant & vegetable protection

Plants Liverpool
Specialists in hydroponics and organics, Greenleaf Systems Ltd offers top quality plants growth systems and aquaculture products in Liverpool & Merseyside. All our products aim to optimise plant growth without the need for soil.

Hanging Basket World
Hanging Basket World is the online specialist in hanging baskets for advice, ideas and products including frames, brackets, liners, fertiliser and accessories

The Cowshed
Outdoor Living Furniture and Equipment

Home improvement with Godfrey DIY stores. Buy online or in store today!

For the very best in Garden Supplies visit Plant Me Now.

Felco
We stock a wide variety of Felco hand pruners and accessories from Felco at wholesale discount prices. Buy where the professionals buy.

Green Garden Tools
We offer environmentally friendly garden tools for your lawn and garden.

More than 800 online suppliers
Online supplier listings for more than 300 categories of garden plants and products.

Planters
Planters Planters Planters has one of the largest supplies of recycled plastic planters, fiberglass planters, concrete planters, terracotta planters, wooden planters, commercial planters, and planter accessories.

Lawn mowers
Classic Lawns are a leading retailer of lawn mowers and other garden equipment.

The One Stop Shop for Aggregates
At MainlandAggregates.co.uk our online shop is an easy way to view and compare information about products and obtain very competitive quotes for your project.

Pool Cleaners
PoolProducts4less.com is your best source for swimming pool cleaners & other supplies at low costs.

Garden supplies & unique gifts
Essential tools & supplies for the garden or allotment. Bargain gardening books & much much more…

For Glove Free Gardening
Indigo Buntings Gardener’s handcare offer a unique & specially formulated gardener’s range to mositurise & care for those hardworking hands. Developed to protect, soothe & nourish the hands. A barrier cream which drys in seconds & does not leave the hands sticky, an exfoliating hand wash with crushed olive kernels& is 99.5% natural & to complete the hand care routine a super hydrating hand mosituriser blended with organic sunflower, organic coconut & shea butter encapsulated by a natural emulsifier & utilising the fabulous hydration properties of Rhziobium Root Gum & Seabuckthorn. Naturally fragranced with essential oils of Rose, Oakmoss, Ylang Ylang & Violet. Inspired to awaken memories of an Old English Rose Garden!

 

Chimonanthus Praecox (Wintersweet) not Flowering

Question:

I’ve had a Chimonanthus Praecox (Wintersweet) for 3 or 4 years now, but it still hasn’t flowered. It’s in a position where it gets the sun most of the day and it’s growing fine. Beautiful leaves in the spring/summer. Only thing I can think that is wrong is that I have it in a pot. Does anyone have any other ideas?

Answer:

I have done some research on this and it seems that it can take a few years for plants to flower so all is not lost, there is still time.

One of the problems with growing plants in pots is that, even when it rains quite heavily there is often not enough rain to give the plants enough moisture. As these plants hate being too dry I would ensure that you are watering regularly, especially when buds begin to appear and during particularly hot / dry periods. They also hate to be too wet so you should also put your pot on “pot feet” to allow any excess water to easily drain away. If the water doesn’t easily drain from the bottom of the pot then try re-potting in a mixture of compost and grit to improve drainage.

Finally, I’m not sure when you tend to do your pruning but being winter flowering you should prune in Spring to ensure that you don’t inadvertently remove any developing buds.

Tritonia Rubrolucens and Hippeastrum (Amaryllis)

Question:

Could you please tell me how best to deal with the foliage of “Tritunia rudrolucens” and “Hipeastrum advenum”now that the flowers have finally died off, leaving climps of foliage 12 to 18 inches high.

Answer:

Do you mean Tritonia rubrolucens and Hippeastrum (Amaryllis)? If so here is how to deal with each of them. If these are not the plants you are enquiring about could you please double check the spellings and get back to me.

Hippeastrum or commonly known as Amaryllis are usually grown as an indoor plant for Christmas; with some care you can get these to re-flower year after year. Here’s how: stop watering and put the plants in their pots into a frost free place for the summer. They will usually die back within a couple of months but if you want to you can cut back the foliage. Keep them dormant until about October at which time you can bring them into a light position indoors and begin feeding and watering. With a bit of luck they will re-flower for Christmas next year.

Tritonia are similar to Crocosmia but are not very hardy so they should only be grown outdoors in mild area. If yours are outdoors and have started to die back cover the top of the plant with a good layer of mulch to allow them to die back and to keep them warm throughout the rest of the winter. If you grew them indoors then I suggest moving the pots into a frost free shed or greenhouse to let them dry out and for the foliage to die down. You can either leave them as they are until next autumn when you can redress the pots, water and bring indoors to flower. Alternatively, once the plants have dried out remove the compost from around the corms and leave the corms to dry out completely; next autumn re-plant the corms in fresh compost, water and bring indoors.

Plant your Spring Flowering Bulbs

Now is the time to plant your spring flowering bulbs.

Spring Flowering Bulbs come in lots of shapes, sizes and colours but the one thing they have in common is the ability to turn a dull late winter, early spring garden into an oasis of light and colour. No garden is complete without the good old daffodil or tulip but there are many other spring flowering bulbs which will add additional interest.

There are bulbous plants for lots of different situations but nearly all require good drainage and many thrive in sunny sites. Many bulbous plants are threatened in the wild so it is important to buy bulbs from cultivated sources such as Crocus.co.uk which has a great range of colourful, healthy Spring Flowering Bulbs.

When planting incorporate well-rotted organic matter and a balanced fertiliser. Bulbs generally need planting quite deep; the general rule is three times their own depth. However, if you get the depth wrong most bulbs will pull themselves down into the ground using special, contractile roots. If you’re planting bulbs in heavy soil, add grit to the bottom of the hole to ensure good drainage.

A few bulbs prefer shallow planting. Plant Madonna lilies (Lilium candidum) with the tip of the bulb just showing above ground. Lay Crown Imperials (Fritillaria imperialis) on their sides so that water can’t collect in their hollow centre and make them rot.

Deadhead regularly and apply a low nitrogen, high potassium fertiliser in subsequent years. Lift and divide if they become overcrowded.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium cristophii – Star of Persia
Huge globes of small star-shaped, pinkish-purple flowers appear in summer above narrow, grey-green leaves. In bloom these fabulous globes – up to 20cm (8in) in diameter – have a metallic sheen. The faded flowerheads hold up well in the border and are useful for dried flower arrangements. Perfect for a sunny site, dotted in small groups among ornamental grasses, or as part of a Mediterranean scheme. Alliums look best planted between medium-sized herbaceous plants, which help to mask the strap-like leaves, which fade by the time the flowers appear.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’ – Dutch Garlic
Dense, rich-purple globes held high on erect stems above strap-like, mid green leaves appear in early summer. They look spectacular grouped in a pot, or in a sunny border, dotted in groups among ornamental grasses, or as part of a Mediterranean scheme. Alliums look best planted between medium-sized herbaceous plants, which help to mask the strap-like leaves, which fade by the time the flowers appear.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium sphaerocephalon – round-headed leek
Small, egg-shaped, claret-coloured flowerheads appear like drumsticks on tall, slender stems above strap-like, mid-green leaves in mid to late summer. Planted en masse in a border in full sun, these diminutive claret flowers look great emerging from a screen of foliage, or against a backdrop of ornamental grasses. They gently fade as summer comes to a close.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Anemone blanda blue-flowered – winter windflower blue-flowered
This is a wonderful plant that produces cheerful, daisy-like flowers in shades of blue and purple in March and April. These are perfect plants for naturalising in a mixed border around the base of deciduous shrubs, or adding spring colour to the edge of a woodland garden. For maximum impact, plant in bold drifts in September or October, and if happy, they should spread quite quickly.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Crocus chrysanthus ‘Cream Beauty’
Rich-cream goblets with brown flushes and deep golden-yellow throats, emerge in February and March amid slender, strap-shaped, mid green leaves. These spring-flowering crocuses are perfect for naturalising in sunny, well-drained areas of the lawn. Relatively vigorous, they soon form large colonies, which can be divided in early autumn for use in other parts of the garden.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Fritillaria meleagris – snake’s head fritillary
Pretty, pendent, white and pinkish-purple bells with distinctive checkerboard markings on slender stems in April and May. These delightful snake’s head fritillaries are perfect for naturalising in a moist woodland edge or wildflower garden. It’s essential to select a site where the soil remains moist in summer.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Galanthus nivalis ‘Viridapice’ – snowdrop
A taller variety with a distinctive, long spathe which looks like the flowers have a hood. This is a good choice for those looking for a slightly more unusual snowdrop, or those wanting to add to their collection as it is still quite rare. Both the inner and outer petals are white, but have green markings which make them look as if they have been painted with a brush.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Woodstock’ – Hyacinth
A fabulous hyacinth with deep magenta-purple blooms that are delicately scented. Plant in mixed beds in the garden or in pots on the patio so you can move them around for best effect. A great colour for mixing with deep purples or plum shades to create a ‘bruised’ border.

Browse the full range of Spring Flowering Bulbs from Crocus.co.uk

Make your own Leafmould

Autumn can be a lovely time of year but the work involved in clearing up all the dropped leaves can be a chore each year. However, there is a benefit to be had – they make a fabulous free source of organic matter.

Leafmould is ideal for use as a soil improver, mulch or potting compost. Here’s what to do:

• Fill black polythene bags with wet leaves
• Tie a knot in the top of the bags
• Puncture a few holes in the sides of each bag
• Place the bags behind the garden shed for a year

Next autumn the rich organic material can be used to improve the soil and mulch the surface after planting.

Flowers for Young Children

Question:

I am planning to make miniature gardens with young children and would like to use petunias ans Impatiens (bizzie-lizzie). I just wanted to make sure that neither of these plants is poisonous.

Answer:

Petunias and Impatiens are not on the poisonous plants list. However, if eaten most ornamental plants will cause sickness in children and some adults. You will need to keep an eye on the children when they are in the garden or consider planting edible plants. Here’s a selection for you to consider:

• Nasturtiums – colourful and quick growing
• Alliums – taste of onions with purple or white flowers
• Rosemary – grows quite big but can be pruned down. Smells great. The flavour is strong so the kids won’t like it anyway!
• Mint – lots of different types with slightly different minty smells. They can take over so it’s best kept in a pot
• Violas and Pansies – cheap and easy to grow
• Parsley – annual only but easy to grow in a sunny spot
• Try planting strawberries or small tomatoes in hanging baskets

Cutting back Carnations

Question:

Last year I sent for some carnation plug plants which I duly planted in the garden, last year they increased in size but only one plant flowered. They over-wintered well and have produced masses of blooms this summer. I neglected to stake them and they now look awful, can I cut them back or will that kill them?

Answer:

Carnations can quickly look messy if they are not supported so I think the only thing you can do is to cut them down and start again next year. Don’t cut them too low, just enough to stop them falling over.

Carnations are very easy to propagate so why not use some of the cut-offs to produce new plants for next year. Ideally this should take place in the spring but they should still root Ok at this time of year:
• Fill a pot with at least 5 inches of sand or vermiculite, water well.
• Take your cuttings which should be about 6 inches long and should include at least three sets of leaves, remove the bottom sets to leave 3-4 inches of bear stem.
• Dip the bottom of each stem in rooting hormone powder (not essential but it will help with rooting).
• Use a pencil to poke a hole in the sand or vermiculite and insert the cutting to a depth of 3-4 inches and firm around the stem. The cuttings can be placed as close together as 1 or 2.
• Place in a shady, frost-free place and check regularly; water when needed.
• The cuttings should be rooted in six to eight weeks and can then be planted in their own pots over the winter and planted out next spring.

Planting carnations in groups means that they help each other to stay upright so the more the better. It is also worth noting that carnations prefer full sun and flop even more in shade; if you have them in the shade you may want to consider moving them.

Photinia Robina Wilt Problem

Question:
I have Photinia Robina in a pot. It is about 8 years old and has always done well. Last year having masses of flowers etc. However, this year the new growth has been dying back. Initially have a wilt and then dropping leaves. The older part of the plant is shiny and healthy. We pruned it back about 3 months ago, but this wilt is still happening on new shoots.

Answer:
It seems that maybe your Photinia has become pot-bound. Tip it out of it’s pot and have a look at the root ball. If the roots are tightly packed then re-pot in a pot a good few inches bigger than its current pot using a good quality compost mixed with some slow release fertiliser; water the plant before re-potting and again afterwards. Keep it well watered for a couple of months until it settles in. Also add a few crocks to the base of the pot to help drainage.

While the root ball is out of its pot check it for grubs; if you find any take a photo and send it on to me in case this is the problem.

Finally; there is a possibility that it may be water-logged but again you can check this when you tip out the plant. If it is very wet and a bit smelly then let it dry out thoroughly before watering.

Blueberry Problems

Question:
We have two blueberry bushes about 3 yrs old which we moved from pots into garden last year. They are in fruit but all the leaves have been eaten? On odd remaining ones there is what looks like a yellow mildew.Can you advise if fruit once ripened is fit to eat and also what the problem is.

Answer:
Blueberries are often pest and disease free, but can occasionally suffer from powdery mildew and vine weevil. Click on the links to find out more from the RHS Advice Centre. Here is also a link to find out more about blueberries in general.

It is also worth noting that they prefer an acid soil so it would be as well to test the soil around the planting area and if it is not acidic enough perhaps consider putting them back into their pots:

I would say that the fruits will be fine once they ripen but if you have sprayed the plant make sure you wash them well.

Moving Monkey Puzzle Tree

Question:
We have planted a monkey puzzle tree from a container it did not have very big roots but looked very healthy a couple of the bottom branches are dying but the rest looks ok can you give me any advice on growing and feeding my tree as I would hate to lose it.

Answer:
All trees and shrubs take time to get established following a move, as long as you are keeping it well watered it should be OK.

However, the monkey puzzle trees like full sun and well-drained soil so check that it isn’t sitting in water and move it to a sunny area if it isn’t located in one currently.

The monkey puzzle tree is slow growing but can eventually grow to a height of 60-70ft and a width of 30-35ft so may eventually outgrow your garden. I know you’ve only just moved it out of a container but it may be better to grow it in a pot but the pot needs to be of considerable size in order for the tree to reach it’s full potential. Make sure you feed it regularly with a general feed such as pelleted chicken manure and mulch the surface with some well rotted organic matter such as manure. If it out grows its pot, wait until the autumn then re-pot in a large pot with plenty of drainage holes. Add some crocks or broken clay pots into the bottom to help drainage and to help stop it falling over, then fill with a good quality compost. Add a general feed such as pelleted chicken manure and mulch the surface with some well rotted organic matter such as manure. Each year you should top up the compost level, feed and add more organic matter.

If you do want to keep it in the ground keep it well watered during the first year and feed and mulch in the autumn.

Leylandii Hedge

Question:

I have just moved into a new house and there is a 20 foot high leylandii hedge down one whole side of the garden.  The bottom is a bit sparse, and I really want to plant a border in front of it.  Can you please give me any advice about what plants would survive?

Answer:

Leylandii are a nuisance in the garden as they grow very quick and if not kept in check can soon take over a whole garden!

It is extremely difficult to grow anything under a hedge, particularly leylandii as they remove so much moisture from the soil.

I would not advise trying to plant a border under the hedge as the shade and lack of moisture means that not much is likely to grow there successfully.

I would plant up pots to provide colour and interest, just place them under the hedge and keep them well watered.

Try planting a few pots with spring flowering bulbs layering different types to get a succession of flowering e.g. daffodils in the lower layer, followed by tulips, then crocus or iris; anything that takes your fancy will do. Once flowering is over these pots can be moved into a corner out of the way until next spring. Replace them by pots full of summer bedding plants.

For all year background interest you could have your evergreens and grasses; conifers also do well in pots and their size is kept in check.

A good plant for autumn interest is Skimmia, they don’t mind low light and are great in pots. click here to see a selection from Crocus

Questions for April 2008

Question

I am not sure if you can help but I am looking to buy some coprosma evening glow or/and coprosma fire burst so far I have had little luck I have tried googling it but very poor results none of my local garden centres stock it I bought some last year from a local market and would like to get more I really want a fairly well established rather than a small gutting that needs to be grown on do you know of any online nurseries that would sell this also regards dogwood I really like the look of this but again not been able to find it in my garden centres does this come in the form of a shrub or bush has its something I am not familiar with thanks for any help you can provide

Answer

I have to admit to not knowing about Coprosma but I have managed to find a company who sell a few varieties. Click on this link:  http://www.burncoose.co.uk/site/plants.cfm?pn_id=176. There are several types of Dogwood (Cornus) so I have added a link to a few at Crocus for you to look at.

Question

We have a well established pear tree in our garden. The problem is that is has grown lopsided / horizontally right across the garden, so much so that it is obstructing the garden path. I would like to keep the tree but would like some advice on how to prune it to encourage it to grow upwards rather than outwards.

Answer

It is possible to do what you are asking but it will need to be done in stages as to reduce the stress to the tree. I think the best thing for you to do is to follow RHS advice on this matter so I have included a link below on Apple and pear tree renovation: http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles1101/fruit_tree.asp

Question

I have what seems to be three different type of spotted laurels one is dark green in colour the other light green with what seems like the beginning of possibly some flowers the other is the same colour light green the first two were planted around a month ago and around 2 3 ft the last one was planted last summer and has hardly grown at all I did read for these to produce flowers you need a male and female like a holly and I thought they were very quick growers I have seen some has high has well over 20foot round where I live they seem to get bigger every year mine are planted in full sun in a good quality compost any information on this plant would be welcomed thank you. I bought a shrub called a beauty berry in October last year it had a abundance of purple berries which have gradually dropped of I believe it is suppose to have pink flowers in summer but at moment I have just a bare shrub is this normal

Answer

Regarding your laurels; do you know which variety you have? I have detailed three of the more common ones below and as you can see their sizes and flowering requirements do vary. If you can find the actual varieties I can do more research for you.

• Aucuba Japonica Crotonifolia. Evergreen, bushy, dense shrub with stout, green shoots. Large glossy, dark green leaves are heavily mottled yellow. Grows in sun or shade and well drained soil. Height 1.7m Spread 1.7m. Male.
• Aucuba Japonica Rozannie. Very handsome shrub which has large, toothed and leathery green leaves. This all green form is self pollinating and produces large red fruits in winter. Grows in any situation and any soil to about 1m. Male.
• Aucuba Japonica Variegata. Evergreen, bushy, dense shrub grown for its yellow spotted leathery leaves. Height 7 ft. Spread 7 ft. requires any reasonable soil. Will thrive in sun or shade. Plant with crotonifolia for berries. Can be kept as a colourful hedge or as a specimen plant. Female. As regards your Beauty Berry (Callicarpa bodinieri var. giraldii Profusion). The lovely purple berries will gradually drop off, or get eaten by the birds, before the end of the winter which is normal. It will remain bare until it begins to produce its leaves then small pink flowers around July.

Question

I have got some branches on our pear tree where the buds are not opening – should I cut them back or just leave it?

Answer

If the tree is the right size and shape for you then I’d leave it. However, you may want to read the RHS article below for information on how to prune your tree should you wish. http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles1101/fruit_tree.asp

Question

Now that the buds are out on the roses does this mean that I can cut them with an outward facing slope away from a bud at a height of 6 inches from the base now? Can I cut the honeysuckle back to 6 inches as well now?

Answer

I would wait until all risk of frost has passed because if you get a hard frost it can cause the tips of shrubs to die back. This die-back can be trimmed off but if the shrub is at its lowest height you will have nothing left to trim away. You should be OK to do it at the middle of April. You will still get a good display so don’t worry, you’ll be surprised how quickly they will grow from May onwards. You method sounds good but don’t forget to give them a little feed of fertilizer. You can buy one specifically for roses or you can use blood, fish and bone meal which can be used on all your plants. A mulch of well rotted manure around the base will also be good to keep down weeds and help improve the structure of the soil.

Question

Leaves on the hyacinth are going yellow. Can I cut them to the base; remove bulbs from the indoor pot and plant in the garden now? Any thoughts as to where best and how i.e. depth etc to plant them?

Answer

Yes you can cut them back and plant them out in the garden. Here’s a link to my Bulbs page which should help you when planting but the general rule is three times its own depth in a sunny position. http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/bulbs.htm

Question

I have recently bought some of the pretty flowering heathers you see at this time of year but know little about them I did hear that they need to be planted I the special compost you use for azaleas and rhododendrons also how long do they flower for I am told the ones you see in the garden centres are all forced has I believe they do not flower until early summer do I prune them when they finish flowering and when should I feed them thank you for any advice you can provide

Answer

There are two types of heather so I’ll give you the details for both. The first type is the “Erica” variety. These heathers do prefer acid soil but they will tolerate slightly alkaline soil, either way it needs to be well-drained and placed in a sunny spot. If you don’t know how acidic your soil is then it would be best to plant into pots using Ericaceous compost although it’s not essential. This type of heather flowers January to March and should be trimmed after flowering with shears or secateurs to remove the dead flowers and encourage bushy growth. The second type is “Calluna”. They like full sun and well-drained, humus-rich, acid soil or ericaceous compost. They flower July to November. In March or April cut back the flowered shoots to within 2.5cm (1in) of the old growth.

Question

My husband would like to know are than any certain types of methods used to make top soil more firm? He’s clearing out some land and the soil is too soft to hold weight.

Answer

I’m not entirely certain I understand exactly what the problem is but I think it is one of the following. The top soil may be too “soft” meaning it is not compacted enough. If this is the case then you should be able to carefully tread down the surface by slowly walking around until it is firm. However, the problem may be that the soil is too sandy, meaning that it has no substance and keeps falling apart. The added problem here is that it will also be very poor making it difficult to grow anything. If this is the case then you need to improve the structure by adding lots and lots of well rotted organic matter such as horse or cow manure. This can be bought in bulk or, if you live near a farm or stables, you may get it for free if you agree to collect it. If you have to go this route then it will take some time for the soil to change and become more substantial, perhaps as long as a year. To avoid weeds taking hold while you’re waiting you could grow some green manure which will subsequently be incorporated into the soil, again adding goodness. Here is an article which might help. http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/soil.htm#Green_manures0

Questions for February 2008

Question

I have a Xylosteum (fly honeysuckle) growing in my garden. Please could you tell me if the red berries growing in the winter are poisonous? I have several young children and am concerned for their welfare.

Answer

The berries on the fly honeysuckle are mildly poisonous so I wouldn’t > take a chance near small children.

Question

We have recently purchased a property with a Bore, the Bore water has a high Iron content, and although my newly planted garden isn’t affected by this my neighbour has reported that he has lost his plants due to the Iron levels in the water. So my question is will the Iron affect the growth of my plants? (The Iron level isn’t extreme; it is still suitable for drinking)

Answer

I have tried to do some research on this but can’t find an awful lot on the subject. The usual problem in gardens is lack of iron as a lot of plants are unable to absorb the iron the soil. I would think that as long as you look after your soil and plant good quality specimens your plants should be OK. Keep the site well drained and add plenty of well rotted organic matter each year to improve the structure. Sorry I couldn’t offer more help.

Question

I live on a estate where when I come out of my flat I come on to a dark outside landing that gets little natural light I was wondering if there was any type of trees shrub I and my fellow neighbours could put in to pots that would brighten the place up I would like some thing that would grow to around 6ft I did thing about conifers but I believe like a lot of trees and plants they need a fair amount of sunshine and /or natural light if you can think of anything I would be grateful preferably something that would be evaluable in your average garden centres

Answer

Firstly you could try ferns. These come in various sizes, not as tall as 6ft but some can reach 3ft and have a good texture. Alternatively, why not put an obelisk into a container and grow ivy up it, twining it in and out as it grows to make it bush out. There are some lovely brightly coloured ivy such as Sulphur Heart. For a long term investment you could try a climbing hydrangea. I have one on the back wall of my house. It faces north and never gets any sun, it won’t grow as big as it says in the description and you can prune it each year if needed and it still flowers well. Here’s a link so you can see what it looks like. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/climbers/other-climbers/hydrangea-anomala-subsp.-petiolaris/itemno.PL00003342/. For a short-term show you could try a few hanging baskets or containers filled with Busy Lizzies. They won’t flower as long or as bright as when they are in sunlight but you should get a few weeks out of them and they will tolerate being dried out if they don’t get watered for a while. In all cases you will need to ensure the soil is of good quality and add some well rotted organic matter to help retain moisture. Either re-pot or top-up the containers each year to keep them fresh.

Questions for January 2008

Question

HI, I need some advice please on what to do with an old veggie patch in my backyard. The previous owner maintained a veggie patch, taking up about one-third of the yard.  It is no longer maintained as a veggie patch and if I could afford it I would makeover the whole backyard.  That area is now just a patch of dirt that is overgrown with weeds.  The man that mows my front lawn previously cleared it, but then I found that the loose soil was unsightly and would blow onto the paved area on windy days. It also had a lot of debris in it (from old construction work on my house, bits of broken plaster) that was unnoticeable while the weeds were growing over it. How do I keep the patch looking neat, would it be possible to cover it over with gravel or wood chips?  I don’t want to spend a lot of money by putting a lawn over it as I intend to redo the whole area someday.

Answer

It should be quite easy to deal with this area. First of all I would ensure that all the weeds are well and truly dead by treating the area with a good quality perennial weed killer. Leave it for a few weeks to see if any annual weeds germinate and if they do pull them out by hand. Then you should lay a weed suppressing membrane ensuring that the whole area is well covered. You will be able to buy this from your local garden centre or DIY store. Finally lay a thick layer of your chosen mulch. You can use anything you like as they all do the same job. The thing to remember is that weed seeds will find there way into the mulch and germinate. However they are usually quite weak so if you pull them up as soon as you see them they should be quite easy to control.

Question

I have just bought a lovely Cordyline australis red star it says on the plant card its only half hardy and wont survive hard frosts yet elsewhere I have read its fully hardy and the frost wont damage it I have bought it in doors placed it where it can get plenty of light and avoided putting it near radiators so should I keep it indoors for now or plant it out it is in a large black plastic pot at moment I have other Cordylines which have done ok over last two winters though different from this one

Answer

You are correct that some Cordylines do survive the winter but I think it best to play safe. Leave it indoors over this winter and plant it out into a sheltered, sunny spot once the risk of frost has passed. Next winter cover the leaves with horticultural fleece to protect it. Alternatively plant it into a nice pot and bring it indoors each winter.

Question

I have a very shaded area of my garden 5 6 hours max sun on a good day in summer I was looking at a relatively inexpensive way of planting some form of hedge that will not grow much over 3ft but will be noticeable perhaps something that may have flowers or berries on at some stage in the year any advice welcomed

Answer

I have done some research and found a few plants which should make a good, low hedge with some interest. There are not many hedging plants which like full shade so I have also included some that like partial shade. They should still do OK although they may bloom a little later than usual. Switch Ivy – likes acid soil, Snowy Woodrush – I don’t know this one well but enjoys full shade, Common Box – needs to be kept well pruned to shape, Berberis – likes sun or shade. Lovely colour but has thorns, Pyracantha – also like sun or shade but again is thorny and will need pruning well each year, Red-barked Dogwood – the red bark is even better when cut right down each year.

Questions for October 2007

Question:

Please could you tell me whether the fuchsia “Shadow Dancer” is hardy?

Answer:

Your Fuchsia “Shadow Dancer” has a hardiness rating of H3 which means that you need to give it some protection from frost. Either move it into an unheated greenhouse or cover with horticultural fleece when frost is expected.

Question:

I have bought several small cuttings today of Buxus golden dream how big can this grow in height and spread and does it grow all year round should I water and feed it in winter thank you for any advice you can give.

Answer:

Buxus ‘Golden Dream’ is a compact, evergreen shrub with dense foliage. Its colour is most pronounced in full sun, but will it will grow in either full sun or partial shade. This plant can be used for anything from a low growing hedge to a nice, neat, accent in any garden. As with most all boxwoods, it prefers slightly cooler, moist soils with good drainage. A good top dressing of mulch will do wonders to keep the soil conditions favourable. Its height and spread is 3-4 ft and it grows at a moderate rate. Although this is a hardy shrub if the cuttings are particularly small I would keep them in their pots and protect them over this winter, planting them out once the risk of frost has passed next spring. They shouldn’t need any feeding this winter but make sure they don’t dry out. When you plant them out give then a good mulch of well rotted manure.

Next Page »