How do I take cuttings from Peony and Rhododendron?

Question:

My late father has a Peony Rose and a Rhododendron and I want to take cuttings from these to give to other family members before the house is sold. Can you advise.

Answer:

It is extremely difficult to take cuttings of Peony and are best propagating by division. Carefully clear away the soil around a portion of root and cut pieces away with some root and at least one growth bud for each plant needed. Place into a pot with good quality compost and keep well watered until established.

Rhododendrons are also difficult to root successfully so to give it as much help as possible remove a thin slice of bark near the base of the stem when you take the cutting. Dip the wounded end in hormone rooting compound before potting in a good quality potting compost.

Cuttings should really be taken in the Spring or Autumn so if you can leave it a few weeks before taking yours it would be better. If you have to do it soon then ensure the cuttings get some sort of protection from cold, winds and frost.

Camellia sinensis for Making Tea

Camellia sinensis is similar to the more common ornamental varieties but with the benefit of being able to produce tea from the leaves and shoots.

The flowers are white with yellow stamens and are fragrant. The leaves are evergreen; dark green and shiny. If left unpruned it can grow to 10ft or more but they are easily pruned if a smaller shrub is required. Indeed, if you want to produce tea from the leaves it will need pruning every couple of years to keep it to 3-5ft high. See below.

In the UK, unless you live in a sheltered, warm climate, you are best to plant it up in a pot and keep it in a cool greenhouse over winter.

Propagation and Care

The most common way of propagating Camellia sinensis is by seed but cuttings also work well. Sow seeds about an inch deep in a good quality acidic seed compost with added grit or sand. Keep the compost damp and warm.

Pot on when the seedlings are large enough to handle, increasing the pot size and the months and years go on.

When buying a young shrub choose one without a central leader in order to produce a bush not a tree. Ensure that there are shoots growing out from the bottom of the plant to ensure the correct shape.

If planting outside place about 3ft apart in a sunny, sheltered position in an acidic, well drained soil. If they are grown in pots place the pots somewhere where they can get some protection from strong wind and raise the pots off the ground to allow water to drain away. Do not allow them to dry out but ensure that they don’t get waterlogged.

Fertilise regularly during the growing season with a suitable Camellia feed and prune to obtain the size and shape you require.

With the correct care and conditions camellia sinensis can live for 50-100 years.

Growing Camellia sinensis for Tea Making

There are three types of tea which can be made from Camellia sinensis; green tea, black tea and Oolong tea. Each type is produced from differently aged leaves and from using different production methods:

• The young, emerging buds, also known as Tips or Flowery Pekoe, are used for the best quality teas
• The next set of leaves are known as Orange Pekoe
• The oldest and largest leaves nearest the stem are Souchong

When your plants reach 2ft tall cut back to a few inches high to encourage new shoots and increased yield. Do this every 2-3 years to keep the vigour in the plants.

Depending on when the leaves are harvested the strength of the tea will differ; the picking of new shoots in Spring is known as First Flush. The Second Flush is the late Spring / early Summer harvesting and produces a tea with more body. The final harvest takes place in Autumn and is stronger still.

When harvesting the leaves should be gently pinched and twisted to avoid damage.

Tea Production

The production of the tea itself goes through several stages:

• Withering: the leaves/shoots are laid out on trays and left until the leaves loose about half of their moisture and become limp
• Rolling: the leaves are rolled to expose the plant enzymes to oxygen and begin oxidisation; the amount of time allowed for the enzymes to react with oxygen determines the type of tea produced
• Oxidisation: also known as fermentation is a highly complex procedure. The length of time given to oxidisation ranges from 45 minutes to many hours determining the colour and aroma of the final product:
  • For Green Tea this process is missed out and the leaves are not allowed to oxidise. It is a green or yellow colour with a “grassy” flavour
  • Oolong tea is partially oxidised; the exact time depends on personal skill and knowledge
  • Black Tea is fully oxidised and produces a full-bodied brew
  • Firing: firing sends a stream of hot air onto the leaves stopping the oxidisation process.
  • Sorting: once dried the tea is sorted into different grades determined by size. The smallest particles are sold as Dust working up in size through Fannings and Broken Leaf to Whole Leaf

When do you sow Phormium Tenax seeds?

Question:

I have acquired some phormium tenax seed pods. When can I sow the seed?

Answer:

Phormium is a hardy perennial so the seed can be sown in late winter/late spring and late summer/autumn.

To help germination put the seed in the fridge for a 6-8 weeks prior to sowing.

Sow in a mixture of well drained compost and keep damp but not too wet as they are prone to damping off.

The seeds will take between 30 and 180 days to germinate and they can be quite difficult so give them some heat either in a greenhouse or a sunny windowsill.

Cutting back Carnations

Question:

Last year I sent for some carnation plug plants which I duly planted in the garden, last year they increased in size but only one plant flowered. They over-wintered well and have produced masses of blooms this summer. I neglected to stake them and they now look awful, can I cut them back or will that kill them?

Answer:

Carnations can quickly look messy if they are not supported so I think the only thing you can do is to cut them down and start again next year. Don’t cut them too low, just enough to stop them falling over.

Carnations are very easy to propagate so why not use some of the cut-offs to produce new plants for next year. Ideally this should take place in the spring but they should still root Ok at this time of year:
• Fill a pot with at least 5 inches of sand or vermiculite, water well.
• Take your cuttings which should be about 6 inches long and should include at least three sets of leaves, remove the bottom sets to leave 3-4 inches of bear stem.
• Dip the bottom of each stem in rooting hormone powder (not essential but it will help with rooting).
• Use a pencil to poke a hole in the sand or vermiculite and insert the cutting to a depth of 3-4 inches and firm around the stem. The cuttings can be placed as close together as 1 or 2.
• Place in a shady, frost-free place and check regularly; water when needed.
• The cuttings should be rooted in six to eight weeks and can then be planted in their own pots over the winter and planted out next spring.

Planting carnations in groups means that they help each other to stay upright so the more the better. It is also worth noting that carnations prefer full sun and flop even more in shade; if you have them in the shade you may want to consider moving them.

Bud Grafting

Question: In my paddock I have inherited, what has been tentatively identified as a Wyken Pippin Apple Tree. Unforunately it was blown down last winter but has still managed to produce a crop of apples this year. I tried bud grafting it using an ‘Ashmeads Kernel’ as a stock plant, to no avail. I notice this year, having been blown almost horizontal, there are a few more young branches growing. Can you please advise on the best way to propagate a new tree. Its such a beautiful flavour and I would hate to loose it. Answer: Bud Grafting is the best way to propagate trees such as apple but it can be quite difficult, as you already know. I have done some research and found a website Keepers Nursery which offers a bud grafting service – http://www.keepers-nursery.co.uk/bud-grafting-service.htm. I have never used this website so cannot give a personal recommendation but it tells you what you need to do so it may be worth a look. As you are getting some good new growth you could try other propagation methods such as softwood cuttings or hardwood cuttings but instead of putting into pots, heel a few into spare land in your garden. You could also try layering if you have the room around the old tree. Do you know whether the old tree was grafted? If it was then you need to double check that any shoots you use are coming from the Wyken Pippin and not the rootstock.

Propagating Plants for your Garden

Buying new plants for your garden is one of life’s little pleasures and can be extremely satisfying but often expensive. Equally as satisfying and an awfully lot cheaper is propagating your own plants.

Softwood Cuttings

These cuttings are taken from this year’s young growth between April and June. Choose a young side shoot and cut below a node about 5-10cm from the tip. Remove the bottom leaves and immerse in a fungicide solution to avoid fungal infections and dip the base in rooting powder. Place a few cuttings in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost and place the pot in a heated greenhouse or propagator or on a windowsill enclosed in a polythene bag. Keep the compost moist. Once you begin to see new growth, pot individually into 10cm pots. Before planting out in the garden get them used to cooler temperatures by placing them outside during the day or move to a cool greenhouse.

Semi-ripe Cutting

These cuttings are taken from this year’s ripe growth between June and August. The base of the shoot should have started to turn brown. Cut just below a node about 10-15cm from the tip or pull the shoot off with some of the woody tissue (heel) attached. Remove the bottom leaves and immerse in a fungicide solution to avoid fungal infections and dip the base in rooting powder. Place a few cuttings in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost and place the pot in a heated greenhouse or propagator or on a windowsill enclosed in a polythene bag. Keep the compost moist. Once you begin to see new growth, pot individually into 10cm pots. Before planting out in the garden get them used to cooler temperatures by placing them outside during the day or move to a cool greenhouse.

Hardwood Cuttings

These cuttings are taken from this year’s woody growth between September and November. Cut a length just below and above a node about 15-30cm long. Remove the leaves and dip the base in rooting powder. Place a few in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost and place the pot in a cold frame or in the ground in an open, sheltered, sunny position. Ensure the soil is well drained. The cuttings should be rooted by the following Autumn.

Root Cuttings

These cutting should be taken between September and November. Expose the roots of shrubs or lift herbaceous plants and select a young root near the crown of the plant. Cut a length 5cm long with a straight cut at the top and a diagonal cut at the base. Immerse in fungicide and insert in a pot of compost so the top is level with the top of the compost. Cover with 0.5cm compost. Fine roots should be laid on the top of the compost and covered lightly. Place in a cold greenhouse or cold frame and keep the compost moist. The cuttings should have rooted by the following spring when they can be potted on.

Leaf Cuttings

There are three methods of taking leaf cuttings. The first involves taking a whole leaf including the stalk (petiole). Dip the stalk in tooting powder and insert in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost so the stalk is buried. Place in a propagator at 18-21 degrees C or enclose in a polythene bag and stand on a warm windowsill. When growth appears at the base of the leaf lift and pot on. The second method is to take a whole leaf and cut halfway through the main vein on the back of the leaf. Place the leaf, cut side down, on the top of the compost. Place grit on top of the leaf to keep it in contact with the compost. Place in a propagator at 18-21 degrees C or enclose in a polythene bag and stand on a warm windowsill. New growth will appear at the cuts. The third method is mainly used on long leaves. Cut the leaf into 5cm sections and dip the bottom edge in rooting powder. Insert the leaf vertically into the compost to about half it’s length. Place in a propagator at 18-21 degrees C or enclose in a polythene bag and stand on a warm windowsill. New growth will form at the base.

Division

Division involves dividing a plant into two or more plants and should be carried out on most perennials every 3-5 years to maintain their vigor. Divide in late autumn or early spring. Lift the plant taking care not to damage the roots and shake off the soil. Using a knife or spade cut the plant into three or four similar sized pieces and plant out each new section as soon as possible, adding compost and a general fertiliser.

Layering

Layering works well on woody plants and involves growing a new plant while it is still attached to the parent plant. It is best carried out between late spring and autumn. Find a stem which is flexible enough to bend to the ground. Make a cut about 5cm long through a node and apply rooting powder. Where the node touches the ground dig a small hole in the soil and add compost. Bury the stem 10cm deep at the node and peg down to secure. Tie the end of the stem to a support. Roots should develop within 18 months at which point it can be removed from the parent plant and planted in its own spot.

Seeds

There are several advantages and disadvantage to propagating by seed.

• Advantages: Large volume of seeds readily available, Cheap, Simple, Vast choice of varieties, Can be stored for a length of time
• Disadvantages: Not all seeds come true to type, Some plants have lost the ability to produce seed, Some plants take a long time to mature and flower

Most people will buy their seeds from a garden centre or specialist seeds man and just follow the directions on the packet. However it is very easy to collect seed from your own garden and also completely free. Some plants will seed themselves, usually where you don’t want them. Once they have seeded just thin them out and/or transplant to another part of your garden. You could also pot them on and give them to friends and family. If you do use your own seed you must remember that most do not come true to type so will not necessarily resemble the plant they came from. You must collect the seed when it is ripe; store pods in a warm, dry place until they split. Once you have the seed label them and keep in a dry, dark, well ventilated area at between 1 and 5 degrees C.

Seeds have six requirement in order to germinate:

1. Seeds have little water which is why they stay dormant for so long
2. The temperature required to germinate vary by seed but generally heat helps
3. Oxygen is required for respiration Food Food is supplied within the seed. If planted too deeply the food with be exhausted before it is able to photosynthesise
4. Some seeds require light to germinate
5. Some seeds have chemical inhibitors which need to diminish before germination is possible
6. Some seeds are difficult to germinate and a number of techniques have been developed to overcome these difficulties:
   1. Soaking seed in warm water for 12-24 hours will soften the coating and help it absorb water and remove chemical inhibitors
   2. Scarification: Nick large seeds with a knife or rub smaller seeds with sandpaper. This weakens the coating and allows water to enter
   3. Stratification: Some seeds require a period of cold before they can germinate. Place the seeds in a 50:50 mixture of moist sand and compost and place in the fridge for 4-12 weeks

Hardy Annuals can be sown outside in March or April when the soil has started to warm up. Biennials and Perennials can be sown later in May or June. Sow directly where you want them to flower/fruit or sow in seedbeds and transplant later. The soil should be raked to break up the soil and to remove any stones. Firm the soil with the back of the rake and apply a general fertiliser. If the area is dry, water well and allow to drain. This should be carried out 3-4 weeks in advance of sowing to allow weeds germinate. Weed the area well then sow the seed thinly in drills 5-15mm deep. Cover lightly with soil. Ensure the soil is kept moist and weed free. When the seedlings appear thin them out to around 10cm apart, carry out a final thinning to 15-20cm depending on the size of the final plant.

Other seeds can be sown in a greenhouse, a propagator or on a window sill. Ideally use a compost formulated specifically for growing seed. Fill a seed tray to the top with compost and gently firm, wet the compost and allow to dry. Scatter the seed thinly on the surface of the compost and cover lightly with compost. Cover with a sheet of glass or place in a propagator at a temperature of 18-21 degrees C. Do not allow the compost to dry out. Once the seedlings begin to show remove the cover/glass and move to where they can get maximum light but not in direct sunlight. When the seedlings develop their first proper leaves prick them out into individual pots being careful not to damage the roots. Never handle seedlings by their stems.

If the seeds are to go outside they need should be first moved to a closed cold frame to get them used to the change in temperature. After a few days they can be left in an open cold frame or stood outside during the day. They can be planted out into well prepared ground once all risk of frost has passed.