Live Twitter Q&A with Award Winning Hugo Bugg

Ronseal are holding a live Question and Answer session with the RHS Young Garden Designer of the Year 2010, Hugo Bugg.

As well as claiming his RHS award Hugo has also produced a  RHS Gold medal garden at the Royal Hampton Garden Show; visit his website and find out more about this amazing garden by clicking here.

Hugo will be available from 12-2pm tomorrow (14th October) on @Ronseal to answer questions on gardening design, winter preparation or anything else related to the garden!

Hope to see you there.

 

 

 

 

Weedkiller

Question:

I recently got involved has a volunteer in creating a community garden for elderly people the area we have was very overgrown we have now hacked it all to the ground with strimmers etc. but I have a idea that the weeds etc. will soon shoot up again.

I would like some advice on a good economical weedkiller has its a large area somebody mentioned something called weed matting is this easy to lay and expensive or inexpensive and above all effective and would that enable a lawn to be laid on top.

Answer:

It looks like you’ve taken on a massive job here but I’m sure it will be worth while in the end.

There are a few ways to remove the weeds. The first, and the hardest, is to dig over the whole area and remove the weeds by hand. Don’t be tempted to use a rotavator because this will chop up and spread perennial weed roots far and wide, making the weed problem much worse.

Leave the land for a few weeks during which time any annual weed seeds left will germinate and these can be removed by hand. Don’t add them to the compost heap as perennial weed seeds will remain in the soil.

If you don’t fancy digging, wait until new weed shoots appear and apply weedkiller containing glyphosate. I’ve done a bit of research and found the following weedkillers which sound good. You should be able to get them at your local garden centre or DIY store:

• Weedol 2 – An economical weedkiller that can be used all round the garden except on lawns, unless you want to kill them. Weedol doesn’t harm the soil so seeding or planting can be carried out immediately after treatment. Young green suckers of roses, lilac and plums can also be killed without harming the rootstock. Effective at any time of the year, Weedol is rainproof in 10 minutes. Contains diquat. Keep away from children and pets. 12 sachet carton treats 204m.
• Roundup Weedkiller – will completely kill all weeds and roots. Children and pets don’t need to be excluded from treated areas as it is biodegradable and starts to break down as soon as it touches the soil. It contains the chemical glyphosate and includes measuring cap for easy measuring. Do not use on lawns or other wanted plants as it will kill everything plant it touches. 280ml treats 280m.

Here are a few general rules to bear in mind when using weedkiller:

• Read the manufacturer’s instructions to be sure you are using the right weedkiller for the job
• Keep weedkiller off plants that you want to keep
• Dissolve/dilute the weedkiller according to instructions on the packaging and apply weeds using a fine rose (sprinkler head) on a watering can which you only use for weedkiller
• Don’t apply on a windy day because weedkillers can drift onto other plants
• The most effective time to apply weedkillers is when weeds are leafy and growing actively, mid-spring to early summer is ideal
• Keep weedkillers in a safe place, out of reach from children and pets. When empty, dispose of them carefully.

Not all weeds will die so repeat applications may be needed.

The final method to control weeds is to cover the ground with sheets of black plastic or old carpet. Emerging weed shoots won’t get any light and will starve and die. This may take a couple of years to be 100 per cent effective. You will be able to lay your lawn over the area once all the weeds have died. You may need to weed and feed the lawn after the first year to ensure new weeds don’t take hold.

For areas which are not going to be lawned you will need to ensure the weeds don’t come back. To help keep them to a minimum add a mulch of bark, compost, manure, gravel or slate. In addition you can also use a weed-proof membrane which is made of woven polypropylene. Lay this on top of the soil and add the mulch on top of that. Plant through the membrane by cutting crosses in the material. Again, the membrane will be available at your local garden centre or DIY store.

How do I take cuttings from Peony and Rhododendron?

Question:

My late father has a Peony Rose and a Rhododendron and I want to take cuttings from these to give to other family members before the house is sold. Can you advise.

Answer:

It is extremely difficult to take cuttings of Peony and are best propagating by division. Carefully clear away the soil around a portion of root and cut pieces away with some root and at least one growth bud for each plant needed. Place into a pot with good quality compost and keep well watered until established.

Rhododendrons are also difficult to root successfully so to give it as much help as possible remove a thin slice of bark near the base of the stem when you take the cutting. Dip the wounded end in hormone rooting compound before potting in a good quality potting compost.

Cuttings should really be taken in the Spring or Autumn so if you can leave it a few weeks before taking yours it would be better. If you have to do it soon then ensure the cuttings get some sort of protection from cold, winds and frost.

How can I train my Jasmine?

Question:

I have a jasmine which has been planted by the front door and have been trying to train it over the door but to be honest I’ve no idea what I’m doing. It has been there 12 years and has many trunks if you know what I mean. I don’t know if I should be cutting some of them out or what growth to cut out. As you can guess I’m a novice gardener.

Answer:

The first thing we need to do is establish which plant you have.

There are two main types of Jasmine, one flowers in Winter/Spring the other flowers in the summer and they need to be treated differently.

The most well known jasmine is Jasminum officinale which has white or cream flowers in the summer and is highly scented. It is most likely that your plant is this one as it is often planted by doorways to appreciate the scent. It don’t mind a little shade but the sun will bring out the scent; it should also be in a sheltered position. It can grow to 12m which makes them ideal for training over an arch but it can take over if it isn’t kept in check. You have two options at this point; prune it back and hope it recovers or get rid of it and start again.

If you want to try to rejuvenate it then follow these steps but bear in mind that all hard pruning can be risky and in most likelihood it will not flower this year:

• This work should be done during February or March but not if frost is expected

• First cut out any dead or really old stems right down to the base

• Cut down any remaining main stems to about 18”

• Cut back any stems growing out from the main stem to about 6”

• If possible remove the top layer of soil from around the base and replace with new top soil or compost

• Water well and top off with a thick layer of well rotted compost (this is called mulch)

• Keep well watered during dry spells

• Fertilise with a general fertiliser in the spring

Once the plant is cut down you will be able to see the trellis or arch so check that it is still sound and if not replace or repair it. Once the plant begins to grow you must regularly tie in the new growth to fill in any gaps up the trellis and keep tying them in right up to the top of the arch (don’t tie in too tight, leave some room for growth). Once the stems get too long just cut them to the length you want. Cut out or shorten any shoots which begin to grow outwards from the main plant to ensure that it doesn’t get too wide. When making your cuts always cut just above a “node” with a slanting cut. A node is a “join” on the stem, once cut, this join produces a new stem or a flower bud. Cutting below the “node” means you are cutting off the chance for a new flower or stem. The thing is that you want to produce a plant that you like the look of so if something doesn’t look good to you then cut it out or cut it down and let it re-grow to the shape and size you want.

Plants that grow close to a house, wall, or fence never get enough water from rain alone so need to be watered regularly particularly during dry spells, when it is developing buds or after a hard prune. Always keep a good layer of mulch on the surface of the soil which will help keep moisture in the soil and help stop weeds developing. Fertilise with a general fertiliser once a month from spring through to autumn.

If your plant flowers in Winter/Spring with yellow flowers then it is a Winter Flowering Jasmine which means that it develops it’s buds during the summer/autumn and therefore should not be pruned during the autumn or winter otherwise all the flowers will be lost. All pruning needs to take place once the flowers have gone over which is usually around April or May. They are very good for training over an arch but they only reach 2.5m so will not cover a large area. They like the sun but do not mind some shade. Follow the same steps as above but carry out the work in late spring or summer.

There is another plant, Trachelospermum, which has scented jasmine-like flowers and is often known as star jasmine. It is evergreen so if your plant does not keep it’s leaves in the winter then this isn’t the one you have. It is an excellent climber for a sunny, sheltered spot but does not survive outside in all areas. If you think this is your plant then let me know and I’ll let you know how to deal with it.

Tritonia Rubrolucens and Hippeastrum (Amaryllis)

Question:

Could you please tell me how best to deal with the foliage of “Tritunia rudrolucens” and “Hipeastrum advenum”now that the flowers have finally died off, leaving climps of foliage 12 to 18 inches high.

Answer:

Do you mean Tritonia rubrolucens and Hippeastrum (Amaryllis)? If so here is how to deal with each of them. If these are not the plants you are enquiring about could you please double check the spellings and get back to me.

Hippeastrum or commonly known as Amaryllis are usually grown as an indoor plant for Christmas; with some care you can get these to re-flower year after year. Here’s how: stop watering and put the plants in their pots into a frost free place for the summer. They will usually die back within a couple of months but if you want to you can cut back the foliage. Keep them dormant until about October at which time you can bring them into a light position indoors and begin feeding and watering. With a bit of luck they will re-flower for Christmas next year.

Tritonia are similar to Crocosmia but are not very hardy so they should only be grown outdoors in mild area. If yours are outdoors and have started to die back cover the top of the plant with a good layer of mulch to allow them to die back and to keep them warm throughout the rest of the winter. If you grew them indoors then I suggest moving the pots into a frost free shed or greenhouse to let them dry out and for the foliage to die down. You can either leave them as they are until next autumn when you can redress the pots, water and bring indoors to flower. Alternatively, once the plants have dried out remove the compost from around the corms and leave the corms to dry out completely; next autumn re-plant the corms in fresh compost, water and bring indoors.

Will Cherry Tree Suckers Produce Fruit?

Question:

Will suckers picked from the roots of newly planted fruit cherry trees grow into normal fruit producing trees or will they produce inferior fruit?

Answer:

Cherries with their own roots will grow into very large trees making them unsuitable for smaller gardens. Here in the UK, and I assume in Australia fruit trees, including cherries, are grafted onto rootstocks which limits their size and also helps to encourage earlier fruiting.

The most common rootstock here in the UK is ‘Colt’ and it results in manageable sized trees ideal for small gardens. There are other rootstocks available; the label from the tree should tell you which rootstock has been used.

Therefore any suckers which come from the roots will not produce fruit at all and ideally should be gently pulled off as close to the base as possible.

Getting rid of Weeds

Question:

The house next door to mine is a long term empty property. In its garden it is riddled with 2 weeds one is mare’s tail and the other I don’t know the name of but it is like a route that travels under the surface and every now and then it shoots up just 2 or 3 blades of grass type things. My problems I cannot do anything to stop these 2 weeds coming through into my garden. Next to that garden I have a small patch of tended garden which is turned over and is ready for planting up. But because of the weeds next door there is nothing I can do about it can you help. I have had an idea which I would like to run past you, from what I can see both weeds seem to be just under the surface and I wandered if I dug down a spade deep all along the edge of my side along the perimeter, so as too cut off the roots and then somehow put in a barrier would the mayors tail and other dig its way under the barrier and if not I then can to somehow kill off the rots on my side before planting. I have tried weed killing but to no avail and it gets worse yearly. Please can you help?

Answer:

I’m sorry to hear about your weed problem. I think your suggestion is an excellent idea. Once the barrier is in place it is extremely unlikely that the weeds’ roots will go down far enough to make their way over to your side of the garden. Once you have cut the roots and put the barrier in place I would double check all stray roots are removed from the area, wait a few weeks to see if any new weeds appear. If so then treat the area with a good weedkiller such as Roundup and that should be that.

Fatsia japonica

Question:

I want advice on my Fatsia japonica (false castor oil) that has this year flowered and now has black berries. I read somewhere that the berries are poisonous but when you search online you get mixed reports. I have a young boy and don’t want to risk him eating anything that could cause him harm.

Answer:

I had not heard that the Fatsia Japonica was poisonous so did some research myself. Most of the websites I use regularly do not mention that it is (including the RHS). However, I did find one that did state that the seed and other parts of the plant were indeed poisonous. I think I would tend to err on the safe side and assume that it is poisonous. You could pull it up or replant it somewhere that your son does not have access.

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Questions and Answers

The Gardening Register have been offering free gardening advice online for the last four years. The questions and answers can be found on the website here. Over the next few months those questions and answers will be transferred to the blog. Moving location will make it easier for users to find the information they are looking for and make posting questions easier. Have a look at the categories to the right for progress to-date or use the search button at the top of the page to search for a specific topic. If you have a question you would like answering just add a comment to this post and the answer will appear in the Questions and Answers categories within a couple of days.

Grape Ivy Houseplant

Question:

Hi, I have a 20yr old grape ivy houseplant and it has grey fuzzy mould growing over the top of the soil and around the base of the trunk. There is no mould growing anywhere else on the plant – it looks healthy – for the moment anyway! I think I know where I have gone wrong in that I have been watering my plants last thing at night. I know not to do that any more. I removed plant from pot at weekend and scrubbed pot in water and removed mouldy soil and replaced with houseplant compost. I gave plant a small drink of water. I also sprayed around trunk and onto soil with fungicide containing sulphur. I have just checked plant and the mould is coming back with a vengeance. I would be gutted to lose this plant after growing it from a tiny cutting. What do you advise?

Answer:

It sounds as if you have done everything you should to avoid mould however, once it is present it is difficult to get rid of it. The initial cause is overwatering as a damp soil is an ideal habitat for moulds of all types. I would stop watering the plant until it is totally dry, then do what you did last time but try to remove as much of the old soil as possible cleaning away any soil left on the stem before spraying with the fungicide. Perhaps try a bigger pot than it’s in at the moment to give it a bit more space. Are the lower leaves close to the soil level? If so remove some of the lower leaves to let air circulate around the lower stem. Also, place the plant pot in a deep saucer and fill the saucer with water, allowing the plant to bring the water up through its roots instead of down from the surface. Don’t let it sit in the water for too long, once the compost looks damp, empty the saucer and let it dry out again. If you keep an eye on the stem and don’t allow the mould to get too thick, it should be OK. What you are trying to avoid is the mould rotting the bottom of the stem so keep the area as dry as possible.

Monkey Puzzle Tree

Question:

I have a monkey puzzle tree approximately 30 years old and now standing at 30 feet high. Is it possible to cut the top few feet off to stop it growing any taller without harming it? I definitely don’t want to harm the tree but it is getting a bit too tall.

Answer:

Cutting off the top of the tree won’t do it any harm but it will spoil the natural look of the tree so you need to decide if that is acceptable. Monkey Puzzle Trees can grow to 150ft in time so you may want to consider getting rid of it now before it gets too big for the site.

Umbrella Plant

Question:

I have a umbrella plant has type of browny /ograngey bug could you tell me how to get rid of these

Answer:

This sounds like scale insects. You can spray with the following: Provado Ultimate Bug Killer Provado Ultimate Bug Killer Ready to Use Scotts Bug Clear Ultra Westland Bug Attack Scales on houseplants breed throughout the year so all stages in the life cycle may be present at the same time so you will catch the newly hatched nymphs. The older scaly insects will not be affected by the spray but they will die with old age but killing the nymphs means that they will eventually die out. Scale insects can remain attached to the plant long after they are dead but new growth should be free of scales once they have been brought under control. If you want to you can scratch off the scales with your thumb nail. If you prefer organic controls you can use fatty acids such as Bayer Organic Pest Control, Doff Greenfly and Blackfly Killer or Greenfingers Organic Pest Spray, or plant oils and extracts such as Growing Success Fruit & Veg Bug Killer, Scotts Bug Clear for Fruit & Veg and Vitax Organic 2 in 1 Pest & Disease Control. These pesticides may need several applications during the scale’s egg-hatching period. Most of these solutions should be available at your local garden centre or DIY store.

Holes in Lawn

Question:

Some animal keeps digging small holes in my lawn at night what do you think it is and how can I prevent it

Answer:

The animals digging at night are probably cats doing their business. If it has only started recently it could be squirrels burying their nuts and seeds in the early morning. Either way it is difficult to stop them. They love soft soil so you could try covering any bare soil with large grade gravel or composted bark, the bigger the pieces the better. Another solution would be to place twigs across the soil, this can be unsightly but the cats in particular may learn that your garden isn’t friendly and move on somewhere else.

Moroccan Broom

Question:

I planted a Moroccan broom this year it has one main branch which is about 5ft tall and is in danger of snapping off. I would like to make it bushier.

Answer:

The Moroccan Broom (Cytisus battandieri) can be grown as a small tree with a single trunk or as a shrub with lots of trunks and branches so there shouldn’t be any danger of it snapping. To keep the height in check cut back the stem after flowering to about half the length, however, never cut into the old wood as it won’t re-grow. If you want it to bush out more, keep an eye out for new growth from the base. Let the new stems grow, cutting them back to half their length each year after the rest of the plant has flowered. These new shoots may not flower for a couple of years but they should catch up in time.

Releveling Lawn

Question:

HELP – We built a small raised lawn just over 2 years ago, it is Oval in shape, domed in the middle and contained by a brick surround. We filled the surround with top soil and then turfed. Unfortunately is has sunk on one end and now looks terrible. What is the quickest and easiest way to bring one side of the lawn back up to level? I have read your method on stripping back the turf and then raising the level beneath before relaying. As such a big area has sunk, I wondered if there was an easier solution. Would applying top soil on top of the existing lawn where needed and then seeding work? Also, when is the best time to address the problem?

Answer:

I understand that the method of stripping off the existing turf before refilling seems a daunting task but there is one main problem with the method you suggest. The problem is that the new grassed area, either turfed or seeded, will never match the existing turf either in colour nor in the rate of growth and may end up looking as bad as it is now. To help you can now hire turf strippers which makes the lifting of the turf a lot easier. You can get them from HSS or Wyevale now do them too, click on their name and scroll down to their Hire Station. What you will have to remember is to ensure that the turf never dries out as it will never recover. Having said all that if you can remember the name and supplier of the original turf or grass seed, and you can get your hands on some more then it may be OK. Whichever method you choose follow these steps:Fill the area to about a quarter fullWalk over the soil with the weight on your heels, take lots of little steps ensuring that every bit of soil is firmAdd to about half full and repeat as above, continue until the area is level and firmRun a garden rake over the surface to give the new turf or seed something to grab hold ofLay the turf or the sow the seed as per my lawn pagesOnce complete don’t walk on the area for two or three weeks. The best time to lay turf or sow seed is now and it will have all winter to get established before you need to begin mowing.

What can I grow in a tub?

Question:

Please what sort of tree could I grow in a 1 1/2 round meter tub and that would grow quick say 3-4 meters high

Answer:

In theory you could plant any tree you like into a container. The only downside is that the tree will never reach its full size (not always a bad thing) and they require more maintenance. You should place a good layer of crocks or gravel in the bottom of the container and fill with good quality compost. Plant the tree at the same level as it was in its pot, water it well then add a layer of well rotted organic matter as mulch. The mulch will reduce water loss and keep down weeds. You should ensure that it never dries out and each year carefully scrape away the top couple of inches of compost and add a new layer then more mulch. There is no reason why your tree shouldn’t live for many years in these conditions. I have a number of large shrubs and trees, including a Liquid Amber, in large pots and they do well every year. Here is a link to Crocus.co.uk who has a large selection of trees. Have a browse through to get an idea of what’s available, you can then choose the one you like best. Most of these trees should be available in your local garden centre if you prefer to see them before you buy. However, I buy a lot of my plants from Crocus and find them to be of very good quality.

Low Maintenance Garden

Question:

Hi I would like some advice on my mams garden. It is full of grass and other weeds I try to keep on top of it as we have allsorts of bulbs and rose bushes. I did think of weeding it again and getting some bark to cover the garden around the plants. What do you think as I need a long term low maintenance solution as my mam is 79 so it’s left to me to maintain and she does love her garden.

Answer:

I am a great believer in low maintenance gardens, particularly for the elderly. I think it is an excellent idea to mulch around the plants. Give the borders a good weeding, leave for a couple of weeks then weed again. This will ensure that any seeds just germinating are caught early on. Once you have weeded, lay a weed suppressing membrane over as much soil as you can; you can get this from most garden centres and DIY stores. Then lay a good layer of mulch, this can be bark, gravel, slate, cocoa; there are lots available in the garden centre. You don’t say if your mum as a lawn. If she does you may want to consider lifting it and flagging or gravelling over the area. A weed suppressing membrane will help stop weeds growing up through the gravel but you may get seeds germinating into it. These are easily pulled out. Removing lawns can be a bit controversial but in my opinion it allows another interest in the garden. Plant up some large pots with colourful annuals each year or fill with a few more roses for your mum.

Passionflower Seed Pods

Question:

I bought my first passionflower this year and have noticed it now has what I assume are large green seed pods on it. Are they seed pods or fruit? Can I save them if they are seeds and use them next year. I am a new gardener and cannot find out what to do with it next!

Answer:

The pods are actually fruit, they are edible but don’t taste very nice. You could use the seed within the fruits to propagate new plants if you so wish. It is best to use fresh seed which germinates readily. Seed that has been stored for any length of time can take up to 12 months to germinate with less than 2 per cent chance of success. To improve germination, lightly sandpaper the seeds on one or both sides using fine sandpaper, and then soak them in tepid water for 24 hours. Sow 2-5mm deep in peat or soil based seed compost. Temperature is probably the most important factor in germination, ideally at 20 degrees C (68F) for 16 hours and 30 degrees C (86F) for 8 hours each day. If this is not possible, then a constant temperature of 26 degrees C (79F) is advisable. Using this technique fresh seed germinates in two to four weeks and older seed in four to eight weeks, but 12 to 48 weeks is not exceptional. Having germinated your seed and over wintered your young plants, your next goal is to get them flowering. As we know only to well, many plants grown from seed can take years to flower. Passion flowers are no exception. Some species are said not to flower until they are 10 or 20 years old and remember some never do.

Waterlogged soil

Question:

I am having difficulty in preparing soil for slab laying. I recently moved into a new house and need to start a garden from scratch, despite putting in a soak away with pipes and gravel, the soil which was initially waterlogged has now taken on a “spongy” texture over an area of approximately 2m x 1m. At present the soil is about 300mm deep over the soak away and no matter what I do I am unable to compact the soil to the point that it can be walked on without sinking in. We have had severe weather recently and the soil appears to include clay elements. Is it possible that this texture is retaining the water, if so; your recommendations would be appreciated?

Answer:

I think you are correct in your conclusion; as you have installed a soak away then the only conclusion is that the soil needs to be improved. You need to “double dig” the clay areas and add lots of well rotted organic matter such as horse manure. Click here for more information on how to do that. Carrying out this work during the autumn is ideal as the winter frosts will help break down the particles and speed up the process. By the spring, you should be able to plant it up.

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