How do I take cuttings from Peony and Rhododendron?

Question:

My late father has a Peony Rose and a Rhododendron and I want to take cuttings from these to give to other family members before the house is sold. Can you advise.

Answer:

It is extremely difficult to take cuttings of Peony and are best propagating by division. Carefully clear away the soil around a portion of root and cut pieces away with some root and at least one growth bud for each plant needed. Place into a pot with good quality compost and keep well watered until established.

Rhododendrons are also difficult to root successfully so to give it as much help as possible remove a thin slice of bark near the base of the stem when you take the cutting. Dip the wounded end in hormone rooting compound before potting in a good quality potting compost.

Cuttings should really be taken in the Spring or Autumn so if you can leave it a few weeks before taking yours it would be better. If you have to do it soon then ensure the cuttings get some sort of protection from cold, winds and frost.

How can I train my Jasmine?

Question:

I have a jasmine which has been planted by the front door and have been trying to train it over the door but to be honest I’ve no idea what I’m doing. It has been there 12 years and has many trunks if you know what I mean. I don’t know if I should be cutting some of them out or what growth to cut out. As you can guess I’m a novice gardener.

Answer:

The first thing we need to do is establish which plant you have.

There are two main types of Jasmine, one flowers in Winter/Spring the other flowers in the summer and they need to be treated differently.

The most well known jasmine is Jasminum officinale which has white or cream flowers in the summer and is highly scented. It is most likely that your plant is this one as it is often planted by doorways to appreciate the scent. It don’t mind a little shade but the sun will bring out the scent; it should also be in a sheltered position. It can grow to 12m which makes them ideal for training over an arch but it can take over if it isn’t kept in check. You have two options at this point; prune it back and hope it recovers or get rid of it and start again.

If you want to try to rejuvenate it then follow these steps but bear in mind that all hard pruning can be risky and in most likelihood it will not flower this year:

• This work should be done during February or March but not if frost is expected

• First cut out any dead or really old stems right down to the base

• Cut down any remaining main stems to about 18”

• Cut back any stems growing out from the main stem to about 6”

• If possible remove the top layer of soil from around the base and replace with new top soil or compost

• Water well and top off with a thick layer of well rotted compost (this is called mulch)

• Keep well watered during dry spells

• Fertilise with a general fertiliser in the spring

Once the plant is cut down you will be able to see the trellis or arch so check that it is still sound and if not replace or repair it. Once the plant begins to grow you must regularly tie in the new growth to fill in any gaps up the trellis and keep tying them in right up to the top of the arch (don’t tie in too tight, leave some room for growth). Once the stems get too long just cut them to the length you want. Cut out or shorten any shoots which begin to grow outwards from the main plant to ensure that it doesn’t get too wide. When making your cuts always cut just above a “node” with a slanting cut. A node is a “join” on the stem, once cut, this join produces a new stem or a flower bud. Cutting below the “node” means you are cutting off the chance for a new flower or stem. The thing is that you want to produce a plant that you like the look of so if something doesn’t look good to you then cut it out or cut it down and let it re-grow to the shape and size you want.

Plants that grow close to a house, wall, or fence never get enough water from rain alone so need to be watered regularly particularly during dry spells, when it is developing buds or after a hard prune. Always keep a good layer of mulch on the surface of the soil which will help keep moisture in the soil and help stop weeds developing. Fertilise with a general fertiliser once a month from spring through to autumn.

If your plant flowers in Winter/Spring with yellow flowers then it is a Winter Flowering Jasmine which means that it develops it’s buds during the summer/autumn and therefore should not be pruned during the autumn or winter otherwise all the flowers will be lost. All pruning needs to take place once the flowers have gone over which is usually around April or May. They are very good for training over an arch but they only reach 2.5m so will not cover a large area. They like the sun but do not mind some shade. Follow the same steps as above but carry out the work in late spring or summer.

There is another plant, Trachelospermum, which has scented jasmine-like flowers and is often known as star jasmine. It is evergreen so if your plant does not keep it’s leaves in the winter then this isn’t the one you have. It is an excellent climber for a sunny, sheltered spot but does not survive outside in all areas. If you think this is your plant then let me know and I’ll let you know how to deal with it.

Tritonia Rubrolucens and Hippeastrum (Amaryllis)

Question:

Could you please tell me how best to deal with the foliage of “Tritunia rudrolucens” and “Hipeastrum advenum”now that the flowers have finally died off, leaving climps of foliage 12 to 18 inches high.

Answer:

Do you mean Tritonia rubrolucens and Hippeastrum (Amaryllis)? If so here is how to deal with each of them. If these are not the plants you are enquiring about could you please double check the spellings and get back to me.

Hippeastrum or commonly known as Amaryllis are usually grown as an indoor plant for Christmas; with some care you can get these to re-flower year after year. Here’s how: stop watering and put the plants in their pots into a frost free place for the summer. They will usually die back within a couple of months but if you want to you can cut back the foliage. Keep them dormant until about October at which time you can bring them into a light position indoors and begin feeding and watering. With a bit of luck they will re-flower for Christmas next year.

Tritonia are similar to Crocosmia but are not very hardy so they should only be grown outdoors in mild area. If yours are outdoors and have started to die back cover the top of the plant with a good layer of mulch to allow them to die back and to keep them warm throughout the rest of the winter. If you grew them indoors then I suggest moving the pots into a frost free shed or greenhouse to let them dry out and for the foliage to die down. You can either leave them as they are until next autumn when you can redress the pots, water and bring indoors to flower. Alternatively, once the plants have dried out remove the compost from around the corms and leave the corms to dry out completely; next autumn re-plant the corms in fresh compost, water and bring indoors.

Will Cherry Tree Suckers Produce Fruit?

Question:

Will suckers picked from the roots of newly planted fruit cherry trees grow into normal fruit producing trees or will they produce inferior fruit?

Answer:

Cherries with their own roots will grow into very large trees making them unsuitable for smaller gardens. Here in the UK, and I assume in Australia fruit trees, including cherries, are grafted onto rootstocks which limits their size and also helps to encourage earlier fruiting.

The most common rootstock here in the UK is ‘Colt’ and it results in manageable sized trees ideal for small gardens. There are other rootstocks available; the label from the tree should tell you which rootstock has been used.

Therefore any suckers which come from the roots will not produce fruit at all and ideally should be gently pulled off as close to the base as possible.

Which growing medium should I use?

Question:
I have read in a well known gardening book that plants do not like being transplanted into a different medium. Does that include transplanting from peat based raising plant medium to garden soil?

Answer:
I must admit I don’t worry too much about the different types of growing medium. I use a good quality everyday compost and if I need it to be free draining, or for sowing seeds and planting cuttings, I add grit or vermiculite, if I need it rich I add manure, if I need it more fertile I’ll add pelleted chicken manure. When planting into the garden I add compost to the planting hole but back fill with the garden soil I’ve removed from the hole so it is not such a shock for the plant. There are only two situations in which I use the “correct” medium and that is to use ericaceous compost/soil for acid lovers and aquatic soil for planting in ponds. So far this method has not caused me any problems.

Aquatic Gardening

There are several points you need to consider before building your pond or water feature. Should it be formal or informal, natural or modern? Do you want to keep fish, grow plants or attract wildlife? Are there children to keep safe?

Once you have answered these questions you need to decide where you want to site the pond or water feature. A pond should be kept away from big trees and shrubs so ensure their roots don’t puncture the lining. If you want to keep fish you need to have a pretty deep pond to stop it freezing over the winter. The smallest you should build a pond is 60cm (2ft) deep and 1 x 1.5m (3 x 5ft) across. However, the bigger the better.

If childrens’ safety is and issue or you prefer not to have to maintain a pond then a water feature is an excellent compromise. You could build a wall fountain or a pebble pool which can be sited in sun or shade near to a power supply. If you do not have external power then a wide plant container or half a barrel, without drainage holes, is ideal. You can still grow small aquatic plants or use floating oxygenators such as water hyacinth. You will need to protect them during winter or empty the container and start again in the spring.

For more about aquatic gardening visit these articles: Build a Garden Pond and Pond Plants

Dying Laurels

Question:

In October last year I planted 300 Laurels, they looked very healthy and doing well, now I have noticed that some of the leaves are turning yellow and dropping off. Are they dying?

I spoke to the Garden Centre where I bought them , they told me they needed food , bone meal etc.

What do you think? they were expensive and I don’t want them dying on me.

Answer:

Firstly you should ensure that the plants are getting enough water; check the soil around the roots and it they are dry give them a good watering and continue to water until you see an improvement. Don’t overwater, you don’t want them sitting in puddles. Feeding will be required on a regular basis, usually in Spring and again in Autumn, you can use bone meal or a general fertiliser if you prefer. Finally the plants could have a magnesium deficiency so do a one off treatment of Epsom salts which you can get from the garden centre; just follow the instructions on the box.

I hope this helps and that your very expensive hedge survives.

Sharp Sand

Question:

Does “sharp sand” have a place in the garden?

Answer:

Sharp sand is used to improve drainage by either digging it directly into the soil or by mixing with compost when planting in containers.
It is also used in building works; mixing with concrete etc.

However, it shouldn’t be used in childrens’ play areas; there are special “safe” sands for this use.

Flowers for Young Children

Question:

I am planning to make miniature gardens with young children and would like to use petunias ans Impatiens (bizzie-lizzie). I just wanted to make sure that neither of these plants is poisonous.

Answer:

Petunias and Impatiens are not on the poisonous plants list. However, if eaten most ornamental plants will cause sickness in children and some adults. You will need to keep an eye on the children when they are in the garden or consider planting edible plants. Here’s a selection for you to consider:

• Nasturtiums – colourful and quick growing
• Alliums – taste of onions with purple or white flowers
• Rosemary – grows quite big but can be pruned down. Smells great. The flavour is strong so the kids won’t like it anyway!
• Mint – lots of different types with slightly different minty smells. They can take over so it’s best kept in a pot
• Violas and Pansies – cheap and easy to grow
• Parsley – annual only but easy to grow in a sunny spot
• Try planting strawberries or small tomatoes in hanging baskets

Ants killing Kilmarnock Willow

Question:
I transplanted a Kilmarnock Willow this spring, it appeared to have survived the move quite well. In recent weeks it has been covered in ants and now the leaves have gone brown and the tree looks dead. Is there anything I can do?

Answer:
As for your Willow. Ants are a bother but they are not a destructive pest as they feed mainly on insects, including other ants. They also look for the sweet liquid known as honeydew, which is excreted by aphids and some other sap-feeding insects. However, ants do little damage to plants themselves, except by disturbing soil around plant roots while building their nests so I don’t think it is the ants which have damaged your Willow.

Getting rid of ants isn’t easy but you could try some of the controls available at garden centres and DIY stores.

I’m wondering if your Willow just hasn’t managed to survive the move, perhaps it dried out during the recent hot spell. You can tell if the tree is dead or not by gently scraping away some of the bark on its branches. If it is brown underneath then the tree is dead, if it is still green then it’s not dead. Try a few different branches as you may find the tips have died but the main stem and bigger stems are still alive. If you find some live stems, cut back the branches to the live part and cut out any branches which are totally dead. Water the tree well and keep it watered throughout the summer and it may come back in the spring. Also add some bone meal to the soil around the base of the tree, this will help the tree concentrate on producing roots.

Cutting back Carnations

Question:

Last year I sent for some carnation plug plants which I duly planted in the garden, last year they increased in size but only one plant flowered. They over-wintered well and have produced masses of blooms this summer. I neglected to stake them and they now look awful, can I cut them back or will that kill them?

Answer:

Carnations can quickly look messy if they are not supported so I think the only thing you can do is to cut them down and start again next year. Don’t cut them too low, just enough to stop them falling over.

Carnations are very easy to propagate so why not use some of the cut-offs to produce new plants for next year. Ideally this should take place in the spring but they should still root Ok at this time of year:
• Fill a pot with at least 5 inches of sand or vermiculite, water well.
• Take your cuttings which should be about 6 inches long and should include at least three sets of leaves, remove the bottom sets to leave 3-4 inches of bear stem.
• Dip the bottom of each stem in rooting hormone powder (not essential but it will help with rooting).
• Use a pencil to poke a hole in the sand or vermiculite and insert the cutting to a depth of 3-4 inches and firm around the stem. The cuttings can be placed as close together as 1 or 2.
• Place in a shady, frost-free place and check regularly; water when needed.
• The cuttings should be rooted in six to eight weeks and can then be planted in their own pots over the winter and planted out next spring.

Planting carnations in groups means that they help each other to stay upright so the more the better. It is also worth noting that carnations prefer full sun and flop even more in shade; if you have them in the shade you may want to consider moving them.

Red Thread in Lawns

Question:
I have a 300 m2 lawn that has red thread spreading round it, I have recently fed the lawn with a high in nitrogen lawn feed, lawn looks lush green but the red thread is starting to show again. Do I keep on feeding the lawn, if so how many times and how regular? Or do I call some experts in?

Answer:

I’ve found an article about red thread from the RHS which explains a bit more about it and how to control it. http://www.rhs.org.uk/advicesearch/Profile.aspx?pid=268.

Photinia Robina Wilt Problem

Question:
I have Photinia Robina in a pot. It is about 8 years old and has always done well. Last year having masses of flowers etc. However, this year the new growth has been dying back. Initially have a wilt and then dropping leaves. The older part of the plant is shiny and healthy. We pruned it back about 3 months ago, but this wilt is still happening on new shoots.

Answer:
It seems that maybe your Photinia has become pot-bound. Tip it out of it’s pot and have a look at the root ball. If the roots are tightly packed then re-pot in a pot a good few inches bigger than its current pot using a good quality compost mixed with some slow release fertiliser; water the plant before re-potting and again afterwards. Keep it well watered for a couple of months until it settles in. Also add a few crocks to the base of the pot to help drainage.

While the root ball is out of its pot check it for grubs; if you find any take a photo and send it on to me in case this is the problem.

Finally; there is a possibility that it may be water-logged but again you can check this when you tip out the plant. If it is very wet and a bit smelly then let it dry out thoroughly before watering.

Tomatoes and Olives

Question:
How do I nurture a tumbling tomatoe plant that we have hanging in a basket? How do I ensure a good crop? There are very small green baby tomatoes at present. Does it need repotting as it looks a bit big now for the basket

I bought the most gorgeous olive tree a couple of months ago. Its about 2.5 feet tall. I repotted it in John Innes No 3 mixed with grit. Is it right to keep it very moist initially? What feed, if any, should I use? How do I know its healthy?

Answer:
Your tumbling tomato plant will need lots of watering to stop the fruits splitting and it will need feeding every week with a tomato feed to ensure a good healthy crop. They really need to be in a very sunny spot for the fruit to ripen successfully. I have never been able to grow tomatoes outside as my garden is north facing and doesn’t get much sun. I wouldn’t re-pot it; it should be fine if you keep feeding and watering.

Olives are not entirely hardy in the UK so will need some protection during cold and frosty periods. You were right to plant in a well-drained mix of compost and grit. Although they can cope with dry periods, olives in containers need regular watering and feeding to produce fruit. During the growing season keep the compost moist and feed every month. In winter, you can reduce watering, but don’t let the compost dry out completely. As long as the leaves are undamaged and there is sign of new growth you can assume the plant is healthy. If the plant is kept in a very sunny location you may even get fruit after a couple of years.

Blueberry Problems

Question:
We have two blueberry bushes about 3 yrs old which we moved from pots into garden last year. They are in fruit but all the leaves have been eaten? On odd remaining ones there is what looks like a yellow mildew.Can you advise if fruit once ripened is fit to eat and also what the problem is.

Answer:
Blueberries are often pest and disease free, but can occasionally suffer from powdery mildew and vine weevil. Click on the links to find out more from the RHS Advice Centre. Here is also a link to find out more about blueberries in general.

It is also worth noting that they prefer an acid soil so it would be as well to test the soil around the planting area and if it is not acidic enough perhaps consider putting them back into their pots:

I would say that the fruits will be fine once they ripen but if you have sprayed the plant make sure you wash them well.

Moving Monkey Puzzle Tree

Question:
We have planted a monkey puzzle tree from a container it did not have very big roots but looked very healthy a couple of the bottom branches are dying but the rest looks ok can you give me any advice on growing and feeding my tree as I would hate to lose it.

Answer:
All trees and shrubs take time to get established following a move, as long as you are keeping it well watered it should be OK.

However, the monkey puzzle trees like full sun and well-drained soil so check that it isn’t sitting in water and move it to a sunny area if it isn’t located in one currently.

The monkey puzzle tree is slow growing but can eventually grow to a height of 60-70ft and a width of 30-35ft so may eventually outgrow your garden. I know you’ve only just moved it out of a container but it may be better to grow it in a pot but the pot needs to be of considerable size in order for the tree to reach it’s full potential. Make sure you feed it regularly with a general feed such as pelleted chicken manure and mulch the surface with some well rotted organic matter such as manure. If it out grows its pot, wait until the autumn then re-pot in a large pot with plenty of drainage holes. Add some crocks or broken clay pots into the bottom to help drainage and to help stop it falling over, then fill with a good quality compost. Add a general feed such as pelleted chicken manure and mulch the surface with some well rotted organic matter such as manure. Each year you should top up the compost level, feed and add more organic matter.

If you do want to keep it in the ground keep it well watered during the first year and feed and mulch in the autumn.

Cordyline Drying Out

Question:
I’ve just got back from holiday to find that my cordyline red star has unexpectedly dried up. Everybody else’s in the close seems to be doing well. What could have gone wrong? Is there any way I can salvage the plant?

Answer:
I’m sorry to hear about your Cordyline. I think we need to establish whether the plant has dried up because the ground dried out or because it has been affected by a pest or disease. Is the soil around the plant dry and if so how far down is it dry? If the soil is damp a few inches down then the plant could be infected which has caused it to shrivel. Have a look around the leaves and the surrounding soil and let me know if you find any evidence of pests or diseases and I’ll investigate further.

In the meantime I would give it a good drink of water and a sprinkling of fertiliser. Add a couple of inches of well rotted manure around the base to help keep the moisture in.

Victoria Plum Tree

Question:
I planted a small Victoria Plum Tree last year in spring, I have no blossom this year only leaves, is this normal?

Answer:
Most fruit trees are very hardy but once they start into growth in spring, flowers and buds are especially vulnerable to frost. It may well be that the flower buds were affected by the frost and died. Next year in early spring cover the tree with horticultural fleece until all risk of frost has passed.

Planting Box Hedge

Question:
I want to plant a box hedge this summer – how far apart should they be?

Answer:
For the best results plant 30cm (12in) apart. Prepare the soil well, adding lots of well rotted manure to the surrounding soil. Don’t allow the manure to touch the roots directly. Firm the plants well and sprinkle some fertiliser on the surface before watering well. Ensure that the soil is never allowed to dry out. Carefully trim the plants in mid or late summer. Prune each year in late spring. After pruning apply a top-dressing of a balanced slow-release fertiliser such as blood, fish around the base of the plant, ensuring that none touches the leaves or stems. This should produce a good quality hedge in no time.

Leylandii Hedge

Question:

I have just moved into a new house and there is a 20 foot high leylandii hedge down one whole side of the garden.  The bottom is a bit sparse, and I really want to plant a border in front of it.  Can you please give me any advice about what plants would survive?

Answer:

Leylandii are a nuisance in the garden as they grow very quick and if not kept in check can soon take over a whole garden!

It is extremely difficult to grow anything under a hedge, particularly leylandii as they remove so much moisture from the soil.

I would not advise trying to plant a border under the hedge as the shade and lack of moisture means that not much is likely to grow there successfully.

I would plant up pots to provide colour and interest, just place them under the hedge and keep them well watered.

Try planting a few pots with spring flowering bulbs layering different types to get a succession of flowering e.g. daffodils in the lower layer, followed by tulips, then crocus or iris; anything that takes your fancy will do. Once flowering is over these pots can be moved into a corner out of the way until next spring. Replace them by pots full of summer bedding plants.

For all year background interest you could have your evergreens and grasses; conifers also do well in pots and their size is kept in check.

A good plant for autumn interest is Skimmia, they don’t mind low light and are great in pots. click here to see a selection from Crocus

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