Pittosporum

Question:

I have a standard pittosporum in a very large pot which has started to thin dramatically and I am not sure what I should do to reverse the problem. The last two years I have under planted it with annuals which are stripped by snails and slugs which are in abundance in my very mature garden. I have sprinkled slug and snail crystals around but as I have a second identical plant in a separate pot which isn’t affected I am not sure what the cause could be. I am contemplating taking it out of the pot and repotting from scratch, if I do this a) can I do it at this time and b) what potting medium should I use to ensure it doesn’t dry out?

Answer:

Pittosporums are not totally hardy and should be protected from frost and cold, drying winds. It could be that the damaged plant was hit by a late frost or is in a more exposed area than the other plant. However, to be on the safe side it would be best to check for pests. If you can carefully lift the rootball out of the pot and have a look around the roots for any grubs or other insects. If you find any send me a photo or description and I’ll try to identify them. If there aren’t any and the rootball looks healthy then you just need to carry out some maintenance. Pittosporum like well-drained soil so while the rootball is out check that the pot’s drainage holes are clear of debris and allow water to drain right through. It may be worthwhile buying some of those little pot feet to keep the pot off the ground which will also allow water to drain away more easily. As a general rule it is usually best not to under plant large specimens in pots as they have to compete for food and water. Carefully remove any remaining roots from the annuals taking away the top inch or so of soil as you go. Sprinkle some Fish, Blood & Bone (or similar) on the surface and top off to the original soil level with a good quality compost. Finally add a layer of well rotted organic matter. This will give the plant all the nutrients it needs for the rest of the year. Large plants kept in pots do not live as long as they do if they are in the ground but to give them the best possible chance carry out the re-topping exercise above on both plants every year. If you prefer to re-pot it would be best to do it in late summer when the plant becomes dormant. Ensure you put plenty of drainage material in the bottom of the pot and avoid damaging the roots. Any good quality compost will be fine. Feed and top off with well-rotted organic matter. For the winter, cover the tops of both plants with some horticultural fleece to protect the leaves from frost and wind damage. If possible move them to a sheltered position.

Caring for young Vegetables

Question:

I transplanted tomatoes, cucumber, etc. last week. Plants look sick, pale green & wilted. I’ve been keeping watered, but weather has been windy & sunny. What can I do?

Answer:

It often takes a while for transplanted seedlings to establish and begin growing again. As long as they are in a sunny spot and that you keep them well watered, but not overwatered, they should recover. However, if the seedlings are exposed to strong winds you may want to consider providing some sort of temporary shelter to help them along.

Planting on Steep Banks

Question:

Hi, I’m wondering if you can help with any ideas on what I can do with a very steep bank in my garden. It is very difficult to reach the top to cut or prune anything (not to mention dangerous!)What is the easiest/quickest way to provide easy access and what sort of plants could you advice I put in this area. Preferably shrubs with some all year colour that grow to a maximum height/width of say a metre or so may be most suitable or maybe heathers of some kind? I may be asking a lot but also any that are hardy & therefore low maintenance would be good! Also what is the best way of minimising weed growth as they seem to take over this area?

Answer:

I have come up with some ideas for your slope. If you click on the plants you are interested in you will be directed to the relevant page on Crocus.co.uk where you will find additional information about each plant. You can buy them from them too if you want. I use them quite a lot and the quality is usually excellent. Before you begin planting it would be beneficial to carry out some work but that should be all you’ll need to do if everything goes according to plan. ? If possible try to remove all weeds. You can use a weedkiller such as Weedol2 which is an economical weedkiller that can be used all round the garden except on lawns, unless you want to kill them. Weedol doesn’t harm the soil so seeding or planting can be carried out immediately after treatment. It is effective at any time of the year, and is rainproof in 10 minutes. Keep away from children and pets. ? Once all the weeds are dead cover the whole area with a weed suppressing membrane and cover with a good layer of mulch such as Cocoa Shells or Woodchips. ? When you are ready to plant, choose your spot and push the mulch to one side and cut a cross in the membrane, fold back the edges of the cross and dig your hole. Add some well rotted manure to the hole and firm the plants in well. Make sure you give the plants a good watering before you plant them and then water the area immediately after planting and each day for about a week. Once they are established they shouldn’t need any more watering. Now for the plants. Firstly I think you need something at the top of the slope which requires no maintenance. I suggest Cotoneaster horizontalis. This is a very hardy, woody, plant which has red berries in the autumn. As the name suggests it grows horizontally so is excellent for quickly covering large areas. Each plant is 1m high and covers 1.5m; however, I would plant them about a metre apart so that they knit together more quickly. For some extra cover in this area you could add some Berberis in between the cotoneasters. This dwarf, deciduous shrub has two seasons of interest. In mid-spring, red-tinted, pale yellow flowers appear and in autumn, the small, purple, spiky leaves turn a dazzling shade of red. Something you could consider for the harder to reach areas is Ivy. I know these are usually grown up a wall or fence but they do very well growing along the ground, and believe me, once they get established nothing else can get through. There are lots of leaf sizes and colours available. I like Sulphur Heart which has a bright yellow middle so will brighten up a dull area. You mentioned Heathers. You could put in some of these in a well drained part of the slope but they do prefer a more acid soil so you will need to take a pH reading to make sure they will grow successfully. You will need to trim these back each year so they are best planted somewhere within easy reach. A very easy to grow plant with lots of colour is Geranium (Cranesbill). They come in lots of different colours and sizes but you will be probably be best choosing some of the larger ones for maximum coverage. These always benefit from being trimmed each year but if you can’t manage that they will be OK. The bottom of slopes are often moist, if yours is you may like to plant some Cowslips. You may need quite a few of these but they will begin to seed themselves around after a while. A great groundcover plant is Periwinkle. These can become invasive but this takes some time; they would look good weaving in and out down the slope in between the other plants. The flowers are usually violet but there are white varieties too. A quite unusual plant is Ajuga Reptans which has lovely purple flowers and evergreen bronze-purple leaves. It soon knits together to make a colourful mass. No garden should be without Alchemilla molis. This beautiful and useful perennial has scalloped, bright green leaves which catch droplets of water that look like quicksilver. From June to September, it produces a frothy haze of tiny, chartreuse yellow flowers. It will soon seed itself around so would be a good addition. Try to plant in threes for the best affect and have at least three of each. If you would like me to come up with a planting plan for you, just send me the dimensions of the area in question and let me know if there are any trees or shrubs on the area which need to stay.

How do you take cuttings from a banana palm?

Question:

How do you take cuttings from a banana palm?

Answer:

Propagation of bananas is done with rhizomes called suckers. Removal of a sucker involves severing the rhizome between it and the parent stem and pulling away the sucker. It is best to cut the sucker off close to the parent stem. The cut can be made with a knife when the sucker is about 30cm tall. After removal, the sucker should have all its unrolled leaves cut off to reduce water loss then planted into a small pot in gritty compost and water in. Stand in a warm, shaded situation and the sucker will establish in a few weeks and then can be potted on.

Planting Belgium Endives

Question:

I would like to know if there is any information on net telling the way of planting Belgium endives

Answer:

I have found a website with information on growing Belgium endive from seed: http://www.kitchengardeners.org/2006/02/growing_belgian_endive.html. I have also found a US site which sells the seed. I have never used them so I can guarantee quality but it may be worth a try: http://www.yankeegardener.com/seeds/hartseed3.html

Pseudosasa japonica

Question:

I have a Pseudosasa japonica which we have kept in a pot. After the winter the leaves all went brown and seemed to die. As we live right by the sea at first I thought it was due to the salt spray, however I have been told this species is not affected by sea spray. I was cutting it down as I thought it had died and have noticed some signs of new growth coming from the clump. Is this a normal phase with Bamboo, do they die back each year and have I done damage by cutting back. I had really been planning to plant it in the ground this year. I live in the North East of Scotland as I said right by the North Sea, so we get strong winds and plenty sea spray and not the warmest of climates overall although to be fair this winter was not that bad so do not think frosting was an issue.

Answer:

Pseudosasa Japonica is a large, invasive bamboo so it is best kept in a large pot otherwise it could take over your whole garden. It doesn’t like cold drying winds but it tolerates maritime exposure so as you say the sea spray won’t do it any harm; however, try to keep it out of the worst of the wind. It is vey hardy and can tolerate temperatures down to -15?c but it hates to dry out so keep an eye on that during hot spells. New shoots appear from the base of the plant in April. After flowering, or during late summer, you should cut all the stems back to the base, feed using a balanced fertiliser and mulch with a good layer of well rotted manure. If you want to keep the foliage as a feature over winter you can, however, as yours has done, the stems will eventually turn brown and die. You have done the right thing by cutting it down; the new shoots will now grow through. Feed it now if you haven’t already done so this year.

Downy Mildew

Question:

Suitable treatment for downy mildew on runner beans e.g. brand name

Answer:

I think it is Powdery Mildew, the organic treatment is:Prune out infected branches or shoots as soon as you see the first symptoms.Do this slowly and put the diseased material into a container to avoid shaking spores on to healthy shoots. Then burn the infected material.Some spores of powdery mildew can overwinter on infected material, so remove any sick-looking perennials in the autumn, and clean up thoroughly in the greenhouse with a garden disinfectant.Also, products containing the following chemicals are effective against this pest:Myclobutanil (Systhane Fungus Fighter, Fungus Fighter, Roseclear 3)Penconazole (Fungus Clear)Sulphur as a dust (Vitax Green or Yellow Sulphur), or incorporated in a spray with fatty-acids (Nature’s Answer Natural Pest and Disease Control.Note: Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for safety precautions and application information.To prevent it occurring in the future:Ensure plants have adequate water, especially those in containersKeep roots moist by incorporating organic matter in autumn and applying mulches in springAvoid overcrowding plants or thin out crowded growth, to give good air circulation and minimise humidityDon’t give susceptible plants too much nitrogen-rich fertiliser because this encourages sappy growth which is more susceptible to fungi

Wallflowers

Question:

Could you advise the best way to look after wallflowers once they’ve flowered? Can they be cut down to reflower? If so, how far can you cut them down?

Answer:

The Wallflower is nominally a perennial and sometimes plants will survive several seasons however for a dependable show of flowers every year it is essential that it should be treated as a biennial, and raised freshly every year. You can either buy them ready to plant out early next year or you could collect the seed from your current plants and sow them into pots. If you choose to sow your own it should be done not later than the middle of June. About the middle of July plant the seedlings into single pots and keep outside in a sheltered spot or cold frame. The plants can be planted in their final flowering position in October. For the best display plant them quite close together, touching if possible.

Chlorophos

Question:

Is there anyone who knows where you can purchase Chlorophos?

Answer:

Do you mean the brand Bio Chlorophos which contains the active ingredient Chlorpyriphos used to treat vegetable root flies? If this is the correct substance then I can tell you that according to the RHS it was withdrawn from use in June 2002.

Lawn Advice

Question:

Hi I’m new to gardening and have just laid a new lawn; I just wanted some helpful advice and tips on caring for it so it doesn’t die!

Answer:

The important thing just now is to keep your new lawn well watered. Water it every day, even if it rains, as it will dry out very quickly. You should soon notice a change as it begins to grow. Try gently lifting a corner of one of the turf; if it “sticks” then the roots have begun to develop so you are through the worst. The other important thing is to try not to walk on it until it has established and don’t mow it for a few weeks. When the grass begins to grow cut the lawn with the blades set high so that only the tips are removed. The blades can be lowered as the lawn becomes more established. Continue to follow a regular routine and your lawn should be fine. Here is a link to our lawns routine page: http://www.gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/Lawns/lawns_routine.htm and our calendar page too http://www.gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/Lawns/lawns_calendar.htm

Monkey Puzzle Tree

Question:

Hello, we would like to get some advice about a tree, we bought a monkey puzzle tree about 3 yrs ago, we have had it planted in our front garden which is shady, it didn’t look happy and the branches at the ends where beginning to yellow, we have dug it up and put it into a very large tub, the yellowing has gone, but, the tree still doesn’t look as though it is growing it is still the same size as when we bought it, what are we doing wrong? And what should we do?

Answer:

All trees and shrubs take time to get established following a move. As long as you are keeping it well watered it should be OK. However, the monkey puzzle trees like full sun and well-drained soil. Check that the pot has plenty of drainage holes in the bottom so it isn’t sitting in water and move it to a sunny area if it isn’t located in one currently. The monkey puzzle tree is slow growing but can eventually grow to a height of 60-70ft and a width of 30-35ft. Therefore it is wise to grow it in a pot but it needs to be of considerable size in order for the tree to reach its full potential. Make sure you feed it regularly with a general feed such as pelleted chicken manure and mulch the surface with some well rotted organic matter such as manure. If you feel you need to re-pot it, wait until the autumn then re-pot in a large pot with plenty of drainage holes. Add some crocks or broken clay pots into the bottom to help drainage and to help stop it falling over, and then fill with good quality compost. Add a general feed such as pelleted chicken manure and mulch the surface with some well rotted organic matter such as manure. Each year you should top up the compost level, feed and add more organic matter.

Pruning

Question:

Now that the buds are out on the roses does this mean that I can cut them with an outward facing slope away from a bud at a height of 6 inches from the base now? Can I cut the honeysuckle back to 6 inches as well now?

Answer:

I would wait until all risk of frost has passed because if you get a hard frost it can cause the tips of shrubs to die back. This die-back can be trimmed off but if the shrub is at its lowest height you will have nothing left to trim away. You should be OK to do it at the middle of April. You will still get a good display so don’t worry, you’ll be surprised how quickly they will grow from May onwards. You method sounds good but don’t forget to give them a little feed of fertilizer. You can buy one specifically for roses or you can use blood, fish and bone meal which can be used on all your plants. A mulch of well rotted manure around the base will also be good to keep down weeds and help improve the structure of the soil.

Pear Tree

Question:

I have got some branches on our pear tree where the buds are not opening – should I cut them back or just leave it?

Answer:

If the tree is the right size and shape for you then I’d leave it. However, you may want to read the RHS article below for information on how to prune your tree should you wish. http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles1101/fruit_tree.asp

Laurels

Question:

I have what seems to be three different type of spotted laurels one is dark green in colour the other light green with what seems like the beginning of possibly some flowers the other is the same colour light green the first two were planted around a month ago and around 2 3 ft the last one was planted last summer and has hardly grown at all I did read for these to produce flowers you need a male and female like a holly and I thought they were very quick growers I have seen some has high has well over 20foot round where I live they seem to get bigger every year mine are planted in full sun in a good quality compost any information on this plant would be welcomed thank you. I bought a shrub called a beauty berry in October last year it had a abundance of purple berries which have gradually dropped of I believe it is suppose to have pink flowers in summer but at moment I have just a bare shrub is this normal

Answer:

Regarding your laurels; do you know which variety you have? I have detailed three of the more common ones below and as you can see their sizes and flowering requirements do vary. If you can find the actual varieties I can do more research for you.Aucuba Japonica Crotonifolia. Evergreen, bushy, dense shrub with stout, green shoots. Large glossy, dark green leaves are heavily mottled yellow. Grows in sun or shade and well drained soil. Height 1.7m Spread 1.7m. Male.Aucuba Japonica Rozannie. Very handsome shrub which has large, toothed and leathery green leaves. This all green form is self pollinating and produces large red fruits in winter. Grows in any situation and any soil to about 1m. Male.Aucuba Japonica Variegata. Evergreen, bushy, dense shrub grown for its yellow spotted leathery leaves. Height 7 ft. Spread 7 ft. requires any reasonable soil. Will thrive in sun or shade. Plant with crotonifolia for berries. Can be kept as a colourful hedge or as a specimen plant. Female. As regards your Beauty Berry (Callicarpa bodinieri var. giraldii Profusion). The lovely purple berries will gradually drop off, or get eaten by the birds, before the end of the winter which is normal. It will remain bare until it begins to produce its leaves then small pink flowers around July.

Umbrella Plant

Question:

I wonder if you could help me please. My umbrella plant has started losing leaves and I am worried I am doing something wrong. We live in Turkey and during the summer it was unusually hot and while we were in the UK I don’t think it was watered as well as it could have been. It lost quite a lot of leaves during this time and although it has had lots of TLC since I am worried it may still be suffering the effects of the heat. I have sprayed with leave shine I do not overwater and it stands in a south facing light spot in our lounge. Can you offer any suggestions please?

Answer:

The Umbrella Plant likes to be kept moist but does not like to sit in water so it could be that, as you say, it was either not watered or indeed overwatered. When a plant goes through trauma like this is does take a while for it to recover so I wouldn’t give up hope just yet. Here are some care instructions which may help. It likes bright but indirect light so as long as it is not near a window it should be OK in your lounge. It needs to be kept warm over the winter at a minimum of 60?F. Water well over the summer months and less over the winter. Place in a pebble tray or mist regularly to keep up humidity. Feed a liquid feed every month over the growing season. If it is still not looking good by summer you may want to consider cutting it down and seeing if it will re-grow from the base. There are no guarantees that this will help so use it as a last resort.

Holly Trees

Question:

I recently bought two holly trees one was a standard ilex with plenty berries the other I was told was a female has well but has a couple of berries on it so I assume that must be female has well I have been told I need a male nearby has I have not seen any in my area I am a bit confused has there is so many on the market but basically my question is will any male holly do for the female has I have been told there is only a one in 50 chance of getting a female of the same family thanks for any advice

Answer:

You are correct that you require a male ilex to ensure berries on your female plants. One male can fertilise up to five females. Be careful when buying your male plant as some have names which sound female, e.g. Silver Queen.

Planting in the Wet

Question:

We have 1/2 acre, was a field. Wet and clay, windy site. We tried planting as a wet meadow but got inundated with weeds and thistles. Is there anything we can plant which would take up the wet and cope with wind? Preferably not grass!

Answer:

I would be tempted to build a good sized natural pond and plant the surrounding area with moisture loving and bog plants. You could use the excavated soil to build a mound which could be turned into a wild flower meadow or add some grit and grow non-moisture loving plants. I have found a great article from English Nature which tells you all about ponds and native plants http://www.english-nature.org.uk/pubs/publication/pdf/GardenPonds.pdf. My own article also has some ideas together with selected suppliers of aquatic merchandise which may also help. http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/aquatic_gardening.htm

Killing Moss

Question:

I live in a very mossy area and found last year that my 30 year old very productive asparagus bed was completely covered in moss. I raked off as much as was possible but this year it has unsurprisingly returned. I have again raked off but clearly shall be left with no soil if I continue in this way. Any suggestions please as to a moss kill product I could now apply (the fern has been cut down to less than an inch above the ground – (might lawn sand be suitable?) and also how I might deal with the bed from now on to minimise moss formation in future? (I do not feel I should just leave the moss on the bed hoping that the asparagus will continue to crop through it. Would this be a sensible option?)

Answer:

This is quite a difficult problem. Firstly I would say not to use any type of moss killer on the bed as the risk to the asparagus is too great. I assume that the soil conditions are ideal for your asparagus otherwise they would not have lasted so long, however, moss loves damp ground. If it is possible to improve the drainage of the bed without disturbing the asparagus you may find this helps in the longer term. In the short term you could try removing the moss by hand then adding mulch, replacing or topping it up every year. The uneven surface of the mulch is less appealing to the moss than the smoothness of bare soil.

Boxus golden dream

Question:

I have bought several small cuttings today of Buxus golden dream how big can this grow in height and spread and does it grow all year round should I water and feed it in winter thank you for any advice you can give.

Answer:

Buxus ‘Golden Dream’ is a compact, evergreen shrub with dense foliage. Its colour is most pronounced in full sun, but will it will grow in either full sun or partial shade. This plant can be used for anything from a low growing hedge to a nice, neat, accent in any garden. As with most all boxwoods, it prefers slightly cooler, moist soils with good drainage. A good top dressing of mulch will do wonders to keep the soil conditions favourable. Its height and spread is 3-4 ft and it grows at a moderate rate. Although this is a hardy shrub if the cuttings are particularly small I would keep them in their pots and protect them over this winter, planting them out once the risk of frost has passed next spring. They shouldn’t need any feeding this winter but make sure they don’t dry out. When you plant them out give then a good mulch of well rotted manure.

Fuchsia Shadow Dancer

Question:

Please could you tell me whether the fuchsia “Shadow Dancer” is hardy?

Answer:

Your Fuchsia “Shadow Dancer” has a hardiness rating of H3 which means that you need to give it some protection from frost. Either move it into an unheated greenhouse or cover with horticultural fleece when frost is expected.

Next Page »