Time to Force your Rhubarb

Rhubarb is a vegetable (not fruit) loved by many and extremely easy to grow as long as you give it the room.

Rhubarb can be grown from seed sown in April but it is much better to plant “crowns” to ensure a good strong plant and fruitful crop. You can expect to get 5 to 10 years from your plant so they are very good value. The only drawback is that you will not be able to pull your crop until the plant is a couple of years old so you need to be patient in the early days.

Plant crowns during November and December ideally, but you can plant up to March.

We are going to order two varieties for our allotment Rhubarb ‘Fulton’s Strawberry Surprise’ which was voted the best flavoured Rhubarb in the RHS trials and Rhubarb ‘Victoria’ which will be ready to pull after 2 years.

When planting choose a sunny spot in the garden or on the allotment and dress each year with well-rotted compost or farmyard manure. Every five years or so lift each plant, divide into three or four smaller plants and replant or give some to your friends or neighbours.

Rhubarb does not have many troubles but it may suffer from Crown Rot where the buds begin to rot and the sticks become thin and dull. There is no cure for this so you will have to pull up the plants and burn them, don’t replant Rhubarb in the same area. You may also see signs of Honey Fungus; white streaks in the dead tissue of the crown and orange toadstools around the plants. Dig out all the roots and burn.

The sticks, or stalks, can be left to develop for pulling between April and July or they can be “forced” from December or January to provide a crop in February or March.

To force your crop just cover the plant with a upturned bucket or large plant pot with the hole covered up, or invest in a Rhubarb Forcer for a more elegant look. Here are a few examples from Crocus.co.uk.

£54.99	£59.99	£69.99

Now is an ideal time to prevent damage caused by Chafer Grubs

Chafer grubs are the larvae of the chafer beetle.

They can cause problems on any grassed area including lawns by feeding on the roots of grass plants.

The adults range from 9 to 39 mm in length and have different coloured heads and wings cases. The adults emerge between the end of May and July depending on the weather conditions in spring. They may feed on shrubs and trees before laying the eggs into grassed areas.

Larvae hatch about 2 weeks later and begin to feed on grass roots until late September when they move deeper into the soil where they pass the winter. The larvae have white bodies curved in letter C shape, light brown heads, with 3 pairs of legs.When the larvae are small they do not cause much damage to grass unless they are in very high numbers. As they grow bigger, they cause more damage.

Symptoms may appear as straw-coloured weak areas of grass, where the roots have been damaged. In most cases the larvae are discovered when birds or mammals, such as badgers or foxes, begin to rip up areas of the turf looking for the grubs. They are a protein filled delicacy to birds and mammals, which can destroy large areas when looking for them.

It is very difficult to prevent chafer larvae being laid into the lawn. Females prefer moist conditions and so the lawn should not be watered if adults are seen. However, where larvae are present the lawn should be kept well watered to try and counteract the grass from dying through drought due to a weaker root system. In most cases all that can be done is to employ bird and mammal deterrents and tidy up any damage caused.

The larvae can be controlled by removing them by hand or applying a biological nematode, such as Rolawn Chafer Grub Killer, which can be applied from late July until October. Rolawn Chafer Grub killer is specific to the pest concerned therefore safe for the user, children, pets, wildlife and the environment. Click here for further information and to order online from Rolawn Direct.

Looking after your lawn in Summer

Mowing

As temperatures hot up and we move into summer the growth of your lawn may actually start to slow down, mow as and when necessary never taking more than one third of the length of the plant off in any one cut. As always a sharp mower is essential. If temperatures become very hot your lawn will become stressed and it may be necessary to cut back on the frequency of mowing.

Feeding

It will not be necessary to feed your lawn during summer, however a feed with a spring lawn food in late spring will give it everything it needs to see it through the summer.

Watering

Summer is the time when drought can occur and a lawn can turn brown and straw coloured. Before addressing this problem the first thing to say is that well-maintained lawns will invariably recover once the rains return. Good maintenance at other times of the year, aeration and appropriate feeding will help rooting and the lawn’s ability to withstand and recover from periods of drought. If possible, avoidance is better than cure and the only way to prevent drought is to water the lawn. If you can water it is best to do this at the first signs of drought, when the grass is still green but starting to show signs of stress (little growth and a dulling of the normal bright green coloration). If you can water try to do this evenly. Also irrigate at times when the water is more likely to soak in. The general rule here is early morning or in the evening, which probably suits most homeowners. Remember to follow any local regulations when using water in summer. If your lawn does suffer from drought then mow as little as possible, the lawn won’t be growing rapidly and it will stress the lawn unnecessarily.

Broadleaf Weed Treatment

Broad leaved weeds should be treated using a suitable selective herbicide. Alternatively weed them out by hand or using a knife / mechanical weeder remembering to get the root of the weed out.

Enjoy your Lawn

Looking after and maintaining a beautiful lawn is a rewarding experience and past time. The results speak for themselves and are there for all to see. A grass surface is also one of the safest surfaces for you and your family to enjoy.

There are other benefits to having a beautiful lawn for example it is believed that standing barefoot on grass is a multi-sensory experience. It triggers within us deeply rooted associations with the smell and sound of nature and the vision of dense greenery.

Dealing with Lawn Pests

The most common lawn pests, Chafer Grubs and Leatherjackets, can cause significant damage to lawns. If you notice patches of poorly growing, yellowing grass check for signs of grubs feeding on the grass roots. These pests can be easily and safely controlled by applying a suitable nematode based product. Rolawn Chafer Grub Killer should be applied from mid-July through to late October. The optimum time of year to apply Rolawn Leatherjacket Killer is from August through to late October.

This advice comes courtesy of Rolawn Direct

Produce a colourful display in just a few weeks

Earlier in the year I decided to clear out a small bed which had become overgrown with conifers and ivy.

I dug out the roots and added some fertiliser and waited until the weather warmed up.

Over the last year or so I had accumulated a number of annual seed packets so in early June I took a small bucket, added some sharp sand and mixed all all the seeds.

Then, after watering, I scattered the seeds/sand mixture over the prepared area and covered it with garden netting to keep the birds away.

Within a couple of weeks the seedlings germinated and after another couple of weeks I was able to “prick out” the more densely sown areas.

Now in early July the bed is full of colour. Orange, yellow and pink Californian poppies and blue and white cornflowers and there are still lots of plants not yet in flower.

I would recommend this way of gardening to everyone; it’s easy, cheap and very rewarding.

I’ll post an update in a couple of weeks time when more flowers should be open.

What can I do to look after my lawn during dry periods?

The UK doesn’t often have long periods of hot weather but when it does, and when hose pipe bans are iminent, our lawns can soon begin looking dry or even dead.

However, all is not lost as during periods of no or low rainfall the grass will stop growing so the first thing you should do it stop mowing and don’t fertilise or use weedkiller. At the first sign of rain the grass will begin to grow again and will soon green up.

Leave it for a couple of weeks before cutting and when you do, lift the cutting height by about half an inch, then continue your normal cutting regime.

If your lawn is very dry and looking stressed it may be as well to prick over the surface of the soil to help any available water penetrate down to the roots.

Looking after your lawn throughout the year will help in times of drought. Take a look at our Lawn Guides for more information or visit Rolawn the turf and lawn experts.

Pampas Grass Pruning

Question:

Hello, I have just moved house and inherited a large pampas grass which is approx 10 feet across and is overhanging the footpath and my driveway, it also has last seasons plumes and appears very dense with previous dead foliage, the centre of the plant approx 3 feet in diameter appears mostly dead foliage with no green leaves in the middle, my questions are, is it too late (31 May) to cut the plant back so i can reduce its diameter? will it damage the plant if i remove the dead foliage as the plant looks very untidy? and do you think it sounds like the middle has died.

Answer:

Pampas Grass is a very tough plant and it is practically impossible to harm it by accident and in fact it often needs brute force to keep it under control.

The best time to remove any dead material from the centre is January or February but as long as you are not too bothered about new plumes this year then you could get stuck in now. You can also cut off any dead or broken plumes and leaves to help tidy it up and dig out or cut down any unwanted external growth to keep the width down. The roots of the pampas grass are very tough and difficult to remove so it is probably easier just to keep it cut back. If you feel you can cope with removing some of the roots to reduce the size then have a go as it won’t kill the plant.

Going forward in late winter or early spring trim back all the dead foliage and comb out any dead material from the centre of the plant. Give it a general feed with a base fertiliser such a Growmore or Fish, Blood and Bone Meal, if we have a dry summer you may need to water it occasionally otherwise no other care is required.

When can I cut back Tulips?

Question:

When can I cut back the leaves of tulips after they have finished blooming or is it better to lift them and replant in autumn?

Answer:

You should cut off the flower stem once the flower has faded then wait at least six weeks before cutting back the leaves; ideally wait until the leaves are yellow and straw-like. During this time you should continue to water and feed.

You don’t have to lift the bulbs but if you need to move them you can lift them once the leaves have died down. Check the bulbs over and discard any which are damaged or diseased. Trim back the roots of each bulb and lay them on a tray to dry off for about a day. Dust lightly with sulphur to help prevent fungal rot. Store in a dry, cool place until the autumn when they can be planted in their new location.

We have Ground Elder!

The Gardening Register garden is gradually being taken over by Ground Elder.

I first noticed it last year but it was just a small patch. The smart thing would have been to dig it all out there and then but I didn’t.

This year the patch has tripled in size so I now have my work cut out for me.

Ground Elder is an invasive, perennial weed which spreads using underground stems or rhizomes. It dies down each winter and reappears in the spring and flowers with flat headed white flowers in early summer. Usually the leaves are dark green but they can also be variegated.

Because this plant creeps along under the soil it can easily creep in from wasteland or neighbours’ gardens. It can also be bought into your garden tucked away amongst the roots of other plants bought from friends or even garden centres.

The rhizomes are white so can be seen quite easily making it possible to remove it using a garden fork. However be very careful as leaving just a minute amount of root in the soil will result in a new plant, and so it goes on.

Controlling this weed is difficult but possible with time and patience.

• If possible lift any cultivated plants from the area and carefully remove any ground elder rhizones from in and around the rootball. Keep the plant moist while you treat the rest of the area.
• Dig over the area removing all evidence of the rhizomes. Cover the area with black polythene and check regularly for regrowth.
• Alternatively spray the area with a weedkiller containing glyphosate such as Roundup or Tumbleweed being careful not to get any weedkiller on other plants. This is best done when there is lots of leafy growth in mid to late summer.







• The RHS also recommend using the residual soil-acting weedkiller dichlobenil (e.g. Casoron G4 Weed Barrier) in early spring. This can be applied to the soil around some trees and shrubs, without causing them damage.
• Always read the instructions before using any weedkiller.
• Once all sign of the weed has gone you can replant the area.
• If it is in the lawn it is not a problem as regular mowing will soon weaken the plants and destroy them.

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Kniphofia (Red Hot Pokers)

Question:

My red hot pokers have grown annually without much attention. This year the crowns appear to have rotted. The roots seem quite strong. Is there anything I can do? They are usually in full bloom in May/June/July.

Answer:

Kniphofia are usually very reliable as you say however they are susceptible to rotting off if they get too wet for too long. I suspect our bad winter has caused this.

If the roots are strong, as you say, I would lift the plant and divide it into 2 or 3 smaller plants.

You can either replant in the same area but in a bigger hole or move 1 or 2 to another area of the garden.

Before replanting add a good layer of grit to the bottom of the planting hole to ensure good drainage and add a good layer of well rotted manure around the crown.

It is unlikely that they will flower this year but they should give a good display next year.

Green Gardening

Give your garden a green makeup this summer; saving you money and cutting down on waste.

Keeping your garden looking great can come at a cost, here are some ideas to keep your garden “green”:

• According to the Energy Saving Trust using sprinklers to water your garden can use up to 18 litres of water per minute, more water than a typical family of four will use in a day.

• Fit your hosepipe with a trigger gun to reduce the amount of water you use.

• When possible use a watering can to significantly cut water waste

• Water in the evening or early morning to extend the length of time before the soil dries out and therefore allowing the water to reach right down to the roots

• Giving your plants a good soaking once or twice a week is much better than watering a little, more often.

• Buy a water butt and collect rainwater to water the garden. As well as being “greener” it is also more beneficial to the plants.

• To find out more about setting up a water butt visit the Waterwise website.

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• Make your own compost, once you’ve got your bin, home compost is essentially free
• Use compost as mulch to help preserve moisture, replenish nutrients and keep weeds down. Spread a 5 centimetre layer around the base of your plants
• Mix fine compost with an equal amount of sharp sand and brush into your lawn after forking thoroughly
• Don’t use compost around soft-stemmed plants and wait until young plants are more established
• Take a look at our Composting pages for more information on how you can recycle your kitchen and garden waste

• Try not to use harmful pesticides and herbicides by using organic controls

• Bury some plastic containers around the garden, fill with beer and place a loose cover over the top. Slugs will be attracted to the beer and drown. Replace the beer every few days.

• Lay a piece of cardboard, thick newspaper or old carpet over weeds to smother them.

• Certain plants can repel pests, plant them at the same time as the edible crops to prevent pests getting a foothold:

  • Planting marigolds and garlic in with your roses and tomatoes to deter aphids.

  • Grow carrots and leeks together to drive away each other’s pests.

  • Plant nasturtium with cabbages; the nasturtiums will attract the caterpillars and leave the cabbages alone.

  • Grow dill to attract aphid-eating hoverflies

• Don’t be too fussy about weeds; if they are not taking over and don’t look too bad then leave them, remove the flower heads to stop them producing weeds.

Will Cherry Tree Suckers Produce Fruit?

Question:

Will suckers picked from the roots of newly planted fruit cherry trees grow into normal fruit producing trees or will they produce inferior fruit?

Answer:

Cherries with their own roots will grow into very large trees making them unsuitable for smaller gardens. Here in the UK, and I assume in Australia fruit trees, including cherries, are grafted onto rootstocks which limits their size and also helps to encourage earlier fruiting.

The most common rootstock here in the UK is ‘Colt’ and it results in manageable sized trees ideal for small gardens. There are other rootstocks available; the label from the tree should tell you which rootstock has been used.

Therefore any suckers which come from the roots will not produce fruit at all and ideally should be gently pulled off as close to the base as possible.

Fritillaria Imperialis

Question:

I have a fritillaria imperialis in a tub, soon after purchase and transfer the flowers died and the leaves are brown at the edges, can you suggest something please.

Answer

Fritillaria imperialis are bulbs and are prone to rotting off if they get too wet.

I would lift the plant, clean off any excess soil, place the bulb in dry sand or compost and keep in a cool, dry place. Allow the remaining leaves to die back and for the bulb to dry out.

In the autumn plant the bulb in a pot, with crocks in the bottom, using a sandy or gritty compost mix. Sit the bulb itself on a couple of inches of grit to ensure that the roots don’t sit in standing water and that the bulb stays dry throughout the winter. You will have to water the pot but make sure it doesn’t get too wet. In the spring the plant it should show new growth and eventually flower.

I hope it’s not too late to save this lovely plant but if it is you may be best buying fresh bulbs in the Autumn and following the advice above.

Getting rid of Weeds

Question:

The house next door to mine is a long term empty property. In its garden it is riddled with 2 weeds one is mare’s tail and the other I don’t know the name of but it is like a route that travels under the surface and every now and then it shoots up just 2 or 3 blades of grass type things. My problems I cannot do anything to stop these 2 weeds coming through into my garden. Next to that garden I have a small patch of tended garden which is turned over and is ready for planting up. But because of the weeds next door there is nothing I can do about it can you help. I have had an idea which I would like to run past you, from what I can see both weeds seem to be just under the surface and I wandered if I dug down a spade deep all along the edge of my side along the perimeter, so as too cut off the roots and then somehow put in a barrier would the mayors tail and other dig its way under the barrier and if not I then can to somehow kill off the rots on my side before planting. I have tried weed killing but to no avail and it gets worse yearly. Please can you help?

Answer:

I’m sorry to hear about your weed problem. I think your suggestion is an excellent idea. Once the barrier is in place it is extremely unlikely that the weeds’ roots will go down far enough to make their way over to your side of the garden. Once you have cut the roots and put the barrier in place I would double check all stray roots are removed from the area, wait a few weeks to see if any new weeds appear. If so then treat the area with a good weedkiller such as Roundup and that should be that.

Plant your Spring Flowering Bulbs

Now is the time to plant your spring flowering bulbs.

Spring Flowering Bulbs come in lots of shapes, sizes and colours but the one thing they have in common is the ability to turn a dull late winter, early spring garden into an oasis of light and colour. No garden is complete without the good old daffodil or tulip but there are many other spring flowering bulbs which will add additional interest.

There are bulbous plants for lots of different situations but nearly all require good drainage and many thrive in sunny sites. Many bulbous plants are threatened in the wild so it is important to buy bulbs from cultivated sources such as Crocus.co.uk which has a great range of colourful, healthy Spring Flowering Bulbs.

When planting incorporate well-rotted organic matter and a balanced fertiliser. Bulbs generally need planting quite deep; the general rule is three times their own depth. However, if you get the depth wrong most bulbs will pull themselves down into the ground using special, contractile roots. If you’re planting bulbs in heavy soil, add grit to the bottom of the hole to ensure good drainage.

A few bulbs prefer shallow planting. Plant Madonna lilies (Lilium candidum) with the tip of the bulb just showing above ground. Lay Crown Imperials (Fritillaria imperialis) on their sides so that water can’t collect in their hollow centre and make them rot.

Deadhead regularly and apply a low nitrogen, high potassium fertiliser in subsequent years. Lift and divide if they become overcrowded.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium cristophii – Star of Persia
Huge globes of small star-shaped, pinkish-purple flowers appear in summer above narrow, grey-green leaves. In bloom these fabulous globes – up to 20cm (8in) in diameter – have a metallic sheen. The faded flowerheads hold up well in the border and are useful for dried flower arrangements. Perfect for a sunny site, dotted in small groups among ornamental grasses, or as part of a Mediterranean scheme. Alliums look best planted between medium-sized herbaceous plants, which help to mask the strap-like leaves, which fade by the time the flowers appear.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’ – Dutch Garlic
Dense, rich-purple globes held high on erect stems above strap-like, mid green leaves appear in early summer. They look spectacular grouped in a pot, or in a sunny border, dotted in groups among ornamental grasses, or as part of a Mediterranean scheme. Alliums look best planted between medium-sized herbaceous plants, which help to mask the strap-like leaves, which fade by the time the flowers appear.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium sphaerocephalon – round-headed leek
Small, egg-shaped, claret-coloured flowerheads appear like drumsticks on tall, slender stems above strap-like, mid-green leaves in mid to late summer. Planted en masse in a border in full sun, these diminutive claret flowers look great emerging from a screen of foliage, or against a backdrop of ornamental grasses. They gently fade as summer comes to a close.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Anemone blanda blue-flowered – winter windflower blue-flowered
This is a wonderful plant that produces cheerful, daisy-like flowers in shades of blue and purple in March and April. These are perfect plants for naturalising in a mixed border around the base of deciduous shrubs, or adding spring colour to the edge of a woodland garden. For maximum impact, plant in bold drifts in September or October, and if happy, they should spread quite quickly.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Crocus chrysanthus ‘Cream Beauty’
Rich-cream goblets with brown flushes and deep golden-yellow throats, emerge in February and March amid slender, strap-shaped, mid green leaves. These spring-flowering crocuses are perfect for naturalising in sunny, well-drained areas of the lawn. Relatively vigorous, they soon form large colonies, which can be divided in early autumn for use in other parts of the garden.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Fritillaria meleagris – snake’s head fritillary
Pretty, pendent, white and pinkish-purple bells with distinctive checkerboard markings on slender stems in April and May. These delightful snake’s head fritillaries are perfect for naturalising in a moist woodland edge or wildflower garden. It’s essential to select a site where the soil remains moist in summer.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Galanthus nivalis ‘Viridapice’ – snowdrop
A taller variety with a distinctive, long spathe which looks like the flowers have a hood. This is a good choice for those looking for a slightly more unusual snowdrop, or those wanting to add to their collection as it is still quite rare. Both the inner and outer petals are white, but have green markings which make them look as if they have been painted with a brush.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Woodstock’ – Hyacinth
A fabulous hyacinth with deep magenta-purple blooms that are delicately scented. Plant in mixed beds in the garden or in pots on the patio so you can move them around for best effect. A great colour for mixing with deep purples or plum shades to create a ‘bruised’ border.

Browse the full range of Spring Flowering Bulbs from Crocus.co.uk

Aquatic Gardening

There are several points you need to consider before building your pond or water feature. Should it be formal or informal, natural or modern? Do you want to keep fish, grow plants or attract wildlife? Are there children to keep safe?

Once you have answered these questions you need to decide where you want to site the pond or water feature. A pond should be kept away from big trees and shrubs so ensure their roots don’t puncture the lining. If you want to keep fish you need to have a pretty deep pond to stop it freezing over the winter. The smallest you should build a pond is 60cm (2ft) deep and 1 x 1.5m (3 x 5ft) across. However, the bigger the better.

If childrens’ safety is and issue or you prefer not to have to maintain a pond then a water feature is an excellent compromise. You could build a wall fountain or a pebble pool which can be sited in sun or shade near to a power supply. If you do not have external power then a wide plant container or half a barrel, without drainage holes, is ideal. You can still grow small aquatic plants or use floating oxygenators such as water hyacinth. You will need to protect them during winter or empty the container and start again in the spring.

For more about aquatic gardening visit these articles: Build a Garden Pond and Pond Plants

How do you grow your own cut flowers?

Buying cut flowers on a regular basis can be quite costly, so why not try growing your own in the garden?

They can be grown in their own cutting bed or mixed into a border to add to the display; either way you could raise enough flowers to have a constant supply of fresh blooms for your home.

To get the best quality flowers it is best to grow them in a sunny spot on well drained, fertile soil. Most will need to be supported to avoid damage and it is also wise to provide shelter from strong winds.

What typs of flowers can I grow?

• Half hardy annuals

• • The are the easiest to grow as the seed are sown directly into the soil where you want them flower
  • Sow between March and May, staggering the sowings to get a succession of flowers over the summer
  • Once all the flowers have been cut and no more buds form, lift the entire plant and put on the compost heap
  • Repeat the process next spring
  • Some examples are:
    • tobacco plants (nicotiana)
    • zinnia
    • snapdragons
    • cosmos
• Biennials
  • Sow seed between May and July to flower the following year
  • Sow where they are to flower or in seed trays
  • As with the annuals, discard after flowering is over
  • Keep sowing each May to get more flowers each year
  • Some examples are:
    • erysimum (wallflowers)
    • sweet william
    • dianthus
• Perennial
  • These will flower year after year so are a good investment
  • Plant rooted cuttings in spring or pot-grown specimens at any time
  • Perennials will die down for winter and most will be OK outside, however dahlias will need a good layer of mulch over them to help them through
  • Some examples are:
    • dahlia
    • chrysanthemum
    • alchemilla mollis
• Bulbs
  • Plant spring flowering bulbs at the end of summer or early autumn
  • Once the flowers have been cut and no more buds appear leave the foliage on the plant to die down naturally, this provides the bulb with food for the following year
  • Some examples are:
    • daffodils
    • tulips
    • allium

Most plants will benefit from being picked regularly as it will encourage more buds to form and extend your cutting season.

Keep all plants well watered throughout the growing season a feed every couple of weeks.

Dying Laurels

Question:

In October last year I planted 300 Laurels, they looked very healthy and doing well, now I have noticed that some of the leaves are turning yellow and dropping off. Are they dying?

I spoke to the Garden Centre where I bought them , they told me they needed food , bone meal etc.

What do you think? they were expensive and I don’t want them dying on me.

Answer:

Firstly you should ensure that the plants are getting enough water; check the soil around the roots and it they are dry give them a good watering and continue to water until you see an improvement. Don’t overwater, you don’t want them sitting in puddles. Feeding will be required on a regular basis, usually in Spring and again in Autumn, you can use bone meal or a general fertiliser if you prefer. Finally the plants could have a magnesium deficiency so do a one off treatment of Epsom salts which you can get from the garden centre; just follow the instructions on the box.

I hope this helps and that your very expensive hedge survives.

Cutting back Carnations

Question:

Last year I sent for some carnation plug plants which I duly planted in the garden, last year they increased in size but only one plant flowered. They over-wintered well and have produced masses of blooms this summer. I neglected to stake them and they now look awful, can I cut them back or will that kill them?

Answer:

Carnations can quickly look messy if they are not supported so I think the only thing you can do is to cut them down and start again next year. Don’t cut them too low, just enough to stop them falling over.

Carnations are very easy to propagate so why not use some of the cut-offs to produce new plants for next year. Ideally this should take place in the spring but they should still root Ok at this time of year:
• Fill a pot with at least 5 inches of sand or vermiculite, water well.
• Take your cuttings which should be about 6 inches long and should include at least three sets of leaves, remove the bottom sets to leave 3-4 inches of bear stem.
• Dip the bottom of each stem in rooting hormone powder (not essential but it will help with rooting).
• Use a pencil to poke a hole in the sand or vermiculite and insert the cutting to a depth of 3-4 inches and firm around the stem. The cuttings can be placed as close together as 1 or 2.
• Place in a shady, frost-free place and check regularly; water when needed.
• The cuttings should be rooted in six to eight weeks and can then be planted in their own pots over the winter and planted out next spring.

Planting carnations in groups means that they help each other to stay upright so the more the better. It is also worth noting that carnations prefer full sun and flop even more in shade; if you have them in the shade you may want to consider moving them.

Photinia Robina Wilt Problem

Question:
I have Photinia Robina in a pot. It is about 8 years old and has always done well. Last year having masses of flowers etc. However, this year the new growth has been dying back. Initially have a wilt and then dropping leaves. The older part of the plant is shiny and healthy. We pruned it back about 3 months ago, but this wilt is still happening on new shoots.

Answer:
It seems that maybe your Photinia has become pot-bound. Tip it out of it’s pot and have a look at the root ball. If the roots are tightly packed then re-pot in a pot a good few inches bigger than its current pot using a good quality compost mixed with some slow release fertiliser; water the plant before re-potting and again afterwards. Keep it well watered for a couple of months until it settles in. Also add a few crocks to the base of the pot to help drainage.

While the root ball is out of its pot check it for grubs; if you find any take a photo and send it on to me in case this is the problem.

Finally; there is a possibility that it may be water-logged but again you can check this when you tip out the plant. If it is very wet and a bit smelly then let it dry out thoroughly before watering.

Moving Monkey Puzzle Tree

Question:
We have planted a monkey puzzle tree from a container it did not have very big roots but looked very healthy a couple of the bottom branches are dying but the rest looks ok can you give me any advice on growing and feeding my tree as I would hate to lose it.

Answer:
All trees and shrubs take time to get established following a move, as long as you are keeping it well watered it should be OK.

However, the monkey puzzle trees like full sun and well-drained soil so check that it isn’t sitting in water and move it to a sunny area if it isn’t located in one currently.

The monkey puzzle tree is slow growing but can eventually grow to a height of 60-70ft and a width of 30-35ft so may eventually outgrow your garden. I know you’ve only just moved it out of a container but it may be better to grow it in a pot but the pot needs to be of considerable size in order for the tree to reach it’s full potential. Make sure you feed it regularly with a general feed such as pelleted chicken manure and mulch the surface with some well rotted organic matter such as manure. If it out grows its pot, wait until the autumn then re-pot in a large pot with plenty of drainage holes. Add some crocks or broken clay pots into the bottom to help drainage and to help stop it falling over, then fill with a good quality compost. Add a general feed such as pelleted chicken manure and mulch the surface with some well rotted organic matter such as manure. Each year you should top up the compost level, feed and add more organic matter.

If you do want to keep it in the ground keep it well watered during the first year and feed and mulch in the autumn.

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