Plants in Our Garden – Rosa “Remember Me”

I have a few roses in my garden but my favourite is the hybrid-tea Rosa “Remember Me”.

It’s main attraction are the deep orange coloured flowers and dark, glossy leaves. Unfortunately the flowers only have a slight scent but the look of the plant is enough.

It is an award-winning bush rose and does well in full sun with fertile, moist, well-drained soil. It is disease resistant and the blooms make excellent cut-flowers.

Buy your own Rosa “Remember Me” from Crocus.co.uk

The photograph above is the property of Linda Peppin and must not be copied or used in any public work without her express permission.

How can I keep my garden chemical free?

Question:

To keep roses free from disease and bugs what can I plant with them to achieve this and make my garden chemical free.

Answer:

There are several points to bear in mind to reduce problems with roses:

• Buy good quality plants with good disease resistances
• Check the plants for any signs of infection or infestation and avoid any with growth on the soil surface
• Always rake up and dispose of prunings and fallen leaves to help avoid fungal diseases
• Prepare the soil well before planting to ensure good drainage and avoid waterlogging
• Don’t plant roses too close together to allow air to circulate
• Prune out the centre of plants to open it up
• Feed regularly with Potash to build up disease resistance and Phosphates to promote a healthy root system; a special rose feed will do
• Inspect your roses regularly to catch problems early; pick off or squash insects and remove infected leaves and stems as soon as they are seen
• Encourage birds into your garden to eat insects including Aphids; erect feeding stations and always have a source of water for bathing and drinking

Ladybirds can eat more than 5,000 aphids in a year so encourage them by keeping a small patch of nettles in your garden; a favourite for egg laying. Ladybirds also need somewhere to hibernate over the winter and a favourite place for them is in clump-forming grasses such as pampas grass or you can buy ladybird houses in garden centres and online.

You should also get to know what the ladybird larvae looks like so that you don’t dispose of them by mistake. They are about half a centimetre long and have dark grey, segmented bodies with yellow spots down each side. Here’s a picture to help.

Companion planting can help reduce diseases and infestations but be careful not to overplant beneath roses as it could rob them of moisture and nutrients making them more prone to diseases:

• Members of the onion family such as chives, ornamental alliums, and edible onions, are said to improve the perfume of roses, prevent black spot and to ward off aphids
• Aromatic plants make good companions in particular herbs such as parsley, thyme, sage and oregano; try some of the following too:
  • Scented geraniums (Pelargonium)
  • Feverfew
  • Marigolds
  • Russian-sage (Perovskia)
  • Lavender
  • Yarrow (Achillea)
  • Catmint (Nepeta)

This Question came from Diane Wood in Whaley Bridge but I was unable to reply in person due to an incorrect email address. I hope you get to read my reply Diane!

Weedkiller

Question:

I recently got involved has a volunteer in creating a community garden for elderly people the area we have was very overgrown we have now hacked it all to the ground with strimmers etc. but I have a idea that the weeds etc. will soon shoot up again.

I would like some advice on a good economical weedkiller has its a large area somebody mentioned something called weed matting is this easy to lay and expensive or inexpensive and above all effective and would that enable a lawn to be laid on top.

Answer:

It looks like you’ve taken on a massive job here but I’m sure it will be worth while in the end.

There are a few ways to remove the weeds. The first, and the hardest, is to dig over the whole area and remove the weeds by hand. Don’t be tempted to use a rotavator because this will chop up and spread perennial weed roots far and wide, making the weed problem much worse.

Leave the land for a few weeks during which time any annual weed seeds left will germinate and these can be removed by hand. Don’t add them to the compost heap as perennial weed seeds will remain in the soil.

If you don’t fancy digging, wait until new weed shoots appear and apply weedkiller containing glyphosate. I’ve done a bit of research and found the following weedkillers which sound good. You should be able to get them at your local garden centre or DIY store:

• Weedol 2 – An economical weedkiller that can be used all round the garden except on lawns, unless you want to kill them. Weedol doesn’t harm the soil so seeding or planting can be carried out immediately after treatment. Young green suckers of roses, lilac and plums can also be killed without harming the rootstock. Effective at any time of the year, Weedol is rainproof in 10 minutes. Contains diquat. Keep away from children and pets. 12 sachet carton treats 204m.
• Roundup Weedkiller – will completely kill all weeds and roots. Children and pets don’t need to be excluded from treated areas as it is biodegradable and starts to break down as soon as it touches the soil. It contains the chemical glyphosate and includes measuring cap for easy measuring. Do not use on lawns or other wanted plants as it will kill everything plant it touches. 280ml treats 280m.

Here are a few general rules to bear in mind when using weedkiller:

• Read the manufacturer’s instructions to be sure you are using the right weedkiller for the job
• Keep weedkiller off plants that you want to keep
• Dissolve/dilute the weedkiller according to instructions on the packaging and apply weeds using a fine rose (sprinkler head) on a watering can which you only use for weedkiller
• Don’t apply on a windy day because weedkillers can drift onto other plants
• The most effective time to apply weedkillers is when weeds are leafy and growing actively, mid-spring to early summer is ideal
• Keep weedkillers in a safe place, out of reach from children and pets. When empty, dispose of them carefully.

Not all weeds will die so repeat applications may be needed.

The final method to control weeds is to cover the ground with sheets of black plastic or old carpet. Emerging weed shoots won’t get any light and will starve and die. This may take a couple of years to be 100 per cent effective. You will be able to lay your lawn over the area once all the weeds have died. You may need to weed and feed the lawn after the first year to ensure new weeds don’t take hold.

For areas which are not going to be lawned you will need to ensure the weeds don’t come back. To help keep them to a minimum add a mulch of bark, compost, manure, gravel or slate. In addition you can also use a weed-proof membrane which is made of woven polypropylene. Lay this on top of the soil and add the mulch on top of that. Plant through the membrane by cutting crosses in the material. Again, the membrane will be available at your local garden centre or DIY store.

The 12 Step Beginners Guide to Pruning

Not all shrubs require pruning but you may want to consider it in order to shape the plant, to encourage vigorous growth, flowering or fruit production or to remove dead, damaged or diseased material.

Here is a beginners guide to pruning:

1. Pruning is best carried out immediately after flowering to ensure a good display the following year but a general pruning in Autumn is also usual particularly for roses
2. Always cut at a downward angle to allow rain to fall away and not sit on the cut
3. Pruning to remove spent flower heads is always a good idea as it stops the plant spending energy producing seed
4. Always use good quality, sharp, clean tools
5. Cut out dead or diseased stems right down to where they reach the roots or main stem
6. Take out any stems that cross over other stems as they will eventually join together and cause injury which can let in disease
7. Take a look at the plant and decide what size and shape you want and bear this is mind throughout the pruning process
8. Take a stem and starting at the tip look along it’s length to where it reaches the base. The “nodes” you see along the length are where either leaves, new stems or flowers will appear; you won’t know in advance which of these it will be
9. By pruning just before a node (i.e. before when looking from the tip to the base) you stimulate a chemical at the node which tells the plant to shoot out from there and produce a flower, leaf or another stem
10. If you prune after a node the chances are that the stem will die back from the end down to the next node and may even continue down the stem
11. To hard prune, count the number of nodes up the stem from the base; you should leave at least two nodes to allow for die-back so pruning just before the third node is usually ideal; this type of pruning produces new growth and reinvigorates the plant
12. For an annual prune when you just want to keep the shrub in shape so you should cut just above the node needed to maintain the shape; this type of pruning usually produces flowers and new leaves the following season

Next you can find out more about pruning specific types of plants:

Evergreens – During May cut out dead, weak or crossing branches and remove extra branches if the shrub is overcrowded. Examples: Camellia, Pieris, Rhododendron -

Early Flowering Deciduous Shrubs – Immediately after flowering cut out dead, weak or crossing branches and remove extra branches if the shrub is overcrowded. Cut back all branches which have flowered this year. Examples: Forsythia, Weigela, Deutzia, Philadelphus

Later Flowering Deciduous Shrubs – During January to March before the new growth appears cut out dead, weak or crossing branches and remove extra branches if the shrub is overcrowded. Cut back all old wood to the ground. Examples: Buddleia, Hypericum, Cornus

Damaged or Diseased Trees – Identify the diseased or damaged branches and cut back to healthy, clean wood.

Clematis

Group 1 – these are small-flowered species which flower in early spring on last season’s growth Immediately after flowering remove dead or damaged stems, and reduce other stems if needed. To renovate an older plant cut back to 15-30cm (6-12in) from the base immediately after flowering

Group 2 – large-flowered, flowering May-June on the previous year’s growth. Some flower again in summer on current season’s growth. Remove dead and damaged stems in early spring before growth begins, trimming all remaining stems to a pair of strong buds. To rejuvenate a mature specimen remove old shoots during spring

Group 3 – flowers late summer on current season’s growth. Cut back all growth to a pair of strong buds 15-20cm (6-8in) above soil level, before growth begins in early spring

When can I plant Rose Bushes?

Question:

When can I plant out my mini rose bushes.Will they be at risk from frost if I plant them now. I live on the Isle of wight so our winters are quite mild.

Answer:

I would say you would be fine to plant out your roses now, in fact autumn is the best time to plant them.

I wouldn’t prune them until the spring just in case they do get caught in a frost. Deadhead them as needed to keep them looking tidy.

I think the important thing is to ensure that they don’t dry out and that they don’t get waterlogged.

When planting dig a hole twice the depth and width of the rootball and add plenty of well rotted organic matter to the hole. If you have heavy, clay soil then add some grit too.

Once planted water in well and water regularly for the first few weeks even if it rains.

What’s looking good in August

I went out into the garden this morning not expecting to see much to photograph and was surprised at the number of plants looking really good.

Often August is a quiet time in the garden but with plants such as Japanese anemone, Rudbeckia, Buddleja and Hibiscus you can guarantee a good display of colour. Take a look below:

Rose mallow Hibiscus syriacus ‘Oiseau Bleu’	Anemone ‘September Charm’ Japanese anemone
Rudbeckia laciniata ‘Herbstsonne’ coneflower	Lysimachia clethroides – Loostrife
Rose campion (Lychnis coronaria)	Hypericum ‘magical red star’
Buddleja  ‘Pink Delight’ butterfly bush	Anemone ‘Honorine Jobert’ Japanese anemone

All photographs were taken and are owned by Linda Peppin if you wish to use these photographs in your own work please drop her a line using the contact us link below.

The Gardening Register Rose

Here is the first photograph of The Gardening Register Rose.

For my birthday last year I was bought a Name A Rose Gift Box. In the box is sachet of seeds which you plant as per the instructions. Once done you fill in the Rose Naming form and send it off then back comes a Personalised Certificate confirming the rose name.

I am the first to admit that I never thought the seeds would germinate never mind turn into a healthy plant; infact, in my case two healthy plants.

Each plant has been trying to flower for a number of weeks but I kept removing the buds to allow them to concentrate on producing roots. However, while I was away over the weekend one of them went ahead and flowered. I think it’s a lovely colour and I’ll be very proud to have it in my garden.

It is highly likely that the second plant will produce a different flower, either in colour or style but that’s part of the excitment.

If I can bring both plants to full maturity I will propagate them over the years to come and may even offer them for sale!

To get your own Name a Rose Gift Box and grow your own roses visit Getting Personal now.

Questions for April 2008

Question

I am not sure if you can help but I am looking to buy some coprosma evening glow or/and coprosma fire burst so far I have had little luck I have tried googling it but very poor results none of my local garden centres stock it I bought some last year from a local market and would like to get more I really want a fairly well established rather than a small gutting that needs to be grown on do you know of any online nurseries that would sell this also regards dogwood I really like the look of this but again not been able to find it in my garden centres does this come in the form of a shrub or bush has its something I am not familiar with thanks for any help you can provide

Answer

I have to admit to not knowing about Coprosma but I have managed to find a company who sell a few varieties. Click on this link:  http://www.burncoose.co.uk/site/plants.cfm?pn_id=176. There are several types of Dogwood (Cornus) so I have added a link to a few at Crocus for you to look at.

Question

We have a well established pear tree in our garden. The problem is that is has grown lopsided / horizontally right across the garden, so much so that it is obstructing the garden path. I would like to keep the tree but would like some advice on how to prune it to encourage it to grow upwards rather than outwards.

Answer

It is possible to do what you are asking but it will need to be done in stages as to reduce the stress to the tree. I think the best thing for you to do is to follow RHS advice on this matter so I have included a link below on Apple and pear tree renovation: http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles1101/fruit_tree.asp

Question

I have what seems to be three different type of spotted laurels one is dark green in colour the other light green with what seems like the beginning of possibly some flowers the other is the same colour light green the first two were planted around a month ago and around 2 3 ft the last one was planted last summer and has hardly grown at all I did read for these to produce flowers you need a male and female like a holly and I thought they were very quick growers I have seen some has high has well over 20foot round where I live they seem to get bigger every year mine are planted in full sun in a good quality compost any information on this plant would be welcomed thank you. I bought a shrub called a beauty berry in October last year it had a abundance of purple berries which have gradually dropped of I believe it is suppose to have pink flowers in summer but at moment I have just a bare shrub is this normal

Answer

Regarding your laurels; do you know which variety you have? I have detailed three of the more common ones below and as you can see their sizes and flowering requirements do vary. If you can find the actual varieties I can do more research for you.

• Aucuba Japonica Crotonifolia. Evergreen, bushy, dense shrub with stout, green shoots. Large glossy, dark green leaves are heavily mottled yellow. Grows in sun or shade and well drained soil. Height 1.7m Spread 1.7m. Male.
• Aucuba Japonica Rozannie. Very handsome shrub which has large, toothed and leathery green leaves. This all green form is self pollinating and produces large red fruits in winter. Grows in any situation and any soil to about 1m. Male.
• Aucuba Japonica Variegata. Evergreen, bushy, dense shrub grown for its yellow spotted leathery leaves. Height 7 ft. Spread 7 ft. requires any reasonable soil. Will thrive in sun or shade. Plant with crotonifolia for berries. Can be kept as a colourful hedge or as a specimen plant. Female. As regards your Beauty Berry (Callicarpa bodinieri var. giraldii Profusion). The lovely purple berries will gradually drop off, or get eaten by the birds, before the end of the winter which is normal. It will remain bare until it begins to produce its leaves then small pink flowers around July.

Question

I have got some branches on our pear tree where the buds are not opening – should I cut them back or just leave it?

Answer

If the tree is the right size and shape for you then I’d leave it. However, you may want to read the RHS article below for information on how to prune your tree should you wish. http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles1101/fruit_tree.asp

Question

Now that the buds are out on the roses does this mean that I can cut them with an outward facing slope away from a bud at a height of 6 inches from the base now? Can I cut the honeysuckle back to 6 inches as well now?

Answer

I would wait until all risk of frost has passed because if you get a hard frost it can cause the tips of shrubs to die back. This die-back can be trimmed off but if the shrub is at its lowest height you will have nothing left to trim away. You should be OK to do it at the middle of April. You will still get a good display so don’t worry, you’ll be surprised how quickly they will grow from May onwards. You method sounds good but don’t forget to give them a little feed of fertilizer. You can buy one specifically for roses or you can use blood, fish and bone meal which can be used on all your plants. A mulch of well rotted manure around the base will also be good to keep down weeds and help improve the structure of the soil.

Question

Leaves on the hyacinth are going yellow. Can I cut them to the base; remove bulbs from the indoor pot and plant in the garden now? Any thoughts as to where best and how i.e. depth etc to plant them?

Answer

Yes you can cut them back and plant them out in the garden. Here’s a link to my Bulbs page which should help you when planting but the general rule is three times its own depth in a sunny position. http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/bulbs.htm

Question

I have recently bought some of the pretty flowering heathers you see at this time of year but know little about them I did hear that they need to be planted I the special compost you use for azaleas and rhododendrons also how long do they flower for I am told the ones you see in the garden centres are all forced has I believe they do not flower until early summer do I prune them when they finish flowering and when should I feed them thank you for any advice you can provide

Answer

There are two types of heather so I’ll give you the details for both. The first type is the “Erica” variety. These heathers do prefer acid soil but they will tolerate slightly alkaline soil, either way it needs to be well-drained and placed in a sunny spot. If you don’t know how acidic your soil is then it would be best to plant into pots using Ericaceous compost although it’s not essential. This type of heather flowers January to March and should be trimmed after flowering with shears or secateurs to remove the dead flowers and encourage bushy growth. The second type is “Calluna”. They like full sun and well-drained, humus-rich, acid soil or ericaceous compost. They flower July to November. In March or April cut back the flowered shoots to within 2.5cm (1in) of the old growth.

Question

My husband would like to know are than any certain types of methods used to make top soil more firm? He’s clearing out some land and the soil is too soft to hold weight.

Answer

I’m not entirely certain I understand exactly what the problem is but I think it is one of the following. The top soil may be too “soft” meaning it is not compacted enough. If this is the case then you should be able to carefully tread down the surface by slowly walking around until it is firm. However, the problem may be that the soil is too sandy, meaning that it has no substance and keeps falling apart. The added problem here is that it will also be very poor making it difficult to grow anything. If this is the case then you need to improve the structure by adding lots and lots of well rotted organic matter such as horse or cow manure. This can be bought in bulk or, if you live near a farm or stables, you may get it for free if you agree to collect it. If you have to go this route then it will take some time for the soil to change and become more substantial, perhaps as long as a year. To avoid weeds taking hold while you’re waiting you could grow some green manure which will subsequently be incorporated into the soil, again adding goodness. Here is an article which might help. http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/soil.htm#Green_manures0

Add Height to your Garden

Tall, upright plants and structures add an extra element of interest to any garden. Trees and large shrubs are an excellent way of gaining height but they do take up a lot of room and take many years to reach their full size.

A quick and easy solution is to use obelisks, arches, pergolas and trellises to grow climbing and rambling plants.

Obelisks come in many shapes and sizes and are available in lots of different materials so you are bound to find one that suits your garden’s theme. Place it in the middle of low growing shrubs and perennials for dramatic affect. Many obelisks are classy enough to stand on their own, but better still, plant a showy, summer flowering clematis at the base and allow it to scramble up for a blast of colour in the middle of the border. Better still plant a spring flowering and a summer flowering clematis together for even more impact.

Pergolas should be erected to draw you through the garden to a feature at the end; a specimen plant, an ornament or other structure. Grow climbing roses, grape vines, wisteria or laburnum to produce a colourful, scented walkway. Soften the base of the structure by planting low growing perennials such as hardy geraniums; this will help make the structure look part of the garden and not just an add-on.

Arches are a great way to add height without taking up too much space. Place them where there is a change to the garden to have it act like a gateway; like at the start or end of a patch or between the lawn and the patio. To help it blend into the rest of the garden plant clematis or roses at the base and train them over the arch.

Trellises can be attached to fencing and the walls of garden buildings or houses. They are great for transforming otherwise dull structures or, used free standing; they do a great job of blocking an eye sore. Any climbing plant will be at home on a trellis just ensure that the shoots are tied in securely.

For great decorative garden accessories and zinc garden planters visit Grand Illusions.

For ideas for climbing plants, take a look at Crocus.co.uk.

Questions for August 2007

Question:

I bought a lavender tree lavandula dentata I planted about 6weeks ago it does say its hare had only the odd night of frost but don t expose to prolonged frost we have had only the odd night of frost since I bought it I have noticed today there are one or two brown spikes on it and the rest seem to be drooping I have given it a feed of miracle grow rose and shrub food I am been unduly concerned will it perk up when the weather gets warmer and is there any thing I can specifically do to help it.

Answer:

Unfortunately Lavandula dentate (French Lavender) is not hardy in the UK so should be kept indoors during the winter. You could try bringing it in now, keeping it warm for the next few weeks to see if it perks up. Don’t cut off the brown spikes just yet. If you still have some green growth by the end of April then prune it back before placing outdoors for the summer. Be careful not to prune into any old or brown woody parts of the plant as it will never re-grow from these areas.

Question:

I would like to know if I could put my magnolia in a container as I am moving house and the garden is all slabs, it is around 2 to 3 years old and around 4 foot.

Answer:

My mum has successfully grown her magnolia in a pot for years and it always looks good. I assume it is in the ground at the moment so you will have to carefully lift it ensuring you don’t damage the roots. Make sure it doesn’t dry out before placing it in as large a pot as possible. Put lots of crocks in the bottom to help drainage and add a slow release fertilizer to the soil around the plant. Each year top off the plant with new compost and / or manure to keep the soil well fed. You may find it goes into shock this year but it should be OK by next year’s flowering season. You will find that the plant won’t grow as big as it would if it was in the ground and it may not live as long either.

Question:

I currently live in West Sussex and do hope that you can give me some advice on the Meyers lemon tree that I purchased last year. You see I am new to the way of gardening here in England, as I spent most of my gardening life in the tropical area of South Africa where it never gets really cold. As I have already mentioned I purchased a lemon tree, which I put into a huge pot on my patio, but now I see that during the course of winter it has lost all its leaves and a lot of the tips of the branches have gone brown. I did not place it indoors, as I do not have the strength to be lugging it around – nor did I cover it with anything. My question is do I throw the tree away or do you think it will pick up again in spring.

Answer:

Unfortunately citrus plants will not survive outside during an English winter. However, having said that, if you have not had a hard frost and it’s in a sheltered position then you may get away with it. I wouldn’t give up on it just yet. Buy some horticultural fleece (available from garden centres or the larger DIY stores, cover it for the rest of the winter and make sure it doesn’t get too wet. If it’s survived you should see new leaves appearing when the weather warms up during April/May.

Question:

Can you please tell me any plants besides Aubrietia that you can plant in the top of a walled raised bed to hang over or to plant vertically in the wall?

Answer:

Please find below some suggestions. Most of these are alpines and do require a well drained soil. Cerastium (Snow-in-summer) – colour: white Iberis (Candytuft) – colour: white Linaria (Toadflax) – colour: various – there is an upright version of this too Saponaria (Soapwort) – colour: pink. You could also consider planting a nice coloured, small leaved ivy to trail down and plant some low growing alpines, such as Thrift to add some height. If you don’t mind a bit of work you could consider planting trailing geraniums or other colourful annuals each year.

Question:

Our neighbours have just built an extension, the side wall of which overlooks our back garden. Unfortunately, a variety of bricks have been used and they haven’t been spaced out very well with the result that the wall overlooking our back garden is unsightly and also oppressive. We would like a fast growing plant which would hide the wall. The wall goes up to 310 cm in height. Please could you advise us as to what would be the best plant to hide this wall and which would grow quickly?

Answer:

My ideal would be ivy. There are lots of different varieties giving you a wide selection of leaf sizes and colours which are evergreen. Once established it is extremely fast growing and also has the benefit of being able to climb without support and will grow in any situation. The other is the Montana range of Clematis which again is very fast growing and has the extra benefit of fragrant flowers in the spring. However you will need to erect some sort of support structure such as trellis or wires before planting. A sunny site will give the best results. Which ever plant you choose make sure you don’t plant it too close to the wall as it won’t be able to get as much water as it needs. If you go to my Plant your Garden page http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/planting.htm.  You will see an advert from Crocus. If you click the Climbers box you will be able to enter some information about the location and features required and receive a number of suggestions back.

Question:

I’ve got a question about holly trees that you might be able to answer for me…! As you know – you need male and female holly for the female plant to produce berries, but do the male and female plant need to be the same variety?? I have a silver queen (male) and a golden king (female) – will I get berries from this??

Answer:

I have double checked and you only need to have one male holly, of any variety, to pollinate several female plants of any variety. Therefore the two you have will do fine; the female plant will produce the berries, not the male. If you’d like more berries you could buy another female variety.

Question:

I am the General Manager of a psychiatric unit in London. We have recently built a secure steel balcony to provide additional outdoor space to one of our first floor wards. The construction is a ‘metal cage’ with a very raw look to it and I would appreciate it if you could give me some ideas on the types of plants we would use to brighten up the area. The balcony is south facing and I would preferably like ones that are easy to manage and stay evergreen so there is colour all year round. Have you any suggestions. The main problem is that for safety reasons we can not use climbing plants as patients could use these to climb up and fall, we can not use plants that have poisonous leaves or berries as patients could eat these and we are unable to use plants that have sharp edges as patients may use these to self harm or ones that attract bees in case of allergic reaction to possible bee stings. In addition, we would require the plants to be in pots that are too heavy for a patient to lift in case they throw them. As you can see from a non-gardeners point of view I am struggling to find the appropriate plants and your assistance and advice would be very welcome.

Answer:

I’ve come up with some ideas and attach an outline of a plan which may be of interest. My first thought was to fit a bench across the left-hand 2.4m section. This could be attached to the balcony and would allow seating for a few people. I have also left room for quite a large table and six chairs. Your idea of galvanized containers screwed into the patio seems a good idea and I’ve found a couple of sites which may be able to provide them. and http://shop.theurbangarden.co.uk/product_select.asp?prtID=49&d=planters. The alternative is to have a raised bed built into the corner which is also attached to the balcony as per my plan. You could have it built as one big “box” or if you had six separate boxes they could be tiered so that the outermost ones are lower than the top ones. This would provide more interest and allow for plants to cascade the corners of each “box”. As for plants. My initial thought is to use Herbs. These are usually soft and are, of course, edible. For added interest I thought a few grasses. I have found a few examples of my thoughts on Crocus.co.uk and have attached a link to their page so you can find out a little more about them. Fennel (especially Bronze which is a lovely colour) these grow to about 1.8m but not very wide so you could fit in quite a few. They are light and move with the wind giving a feeling of movement. I find it best to snip off the flowers to avoid them going to seed and ruining the look. Also, they will die down for the winter but this also means it doesn’t take over. To compliment the colour and movement of the Fennel I thought a few soft grasses would be nice. They tend to give great autumn colour and if left over the winter they provide structure and look nice when frosted. They will have to be cut back to allow the new growth through but it’s not a hard job. Here are a couple of examples. For an evergreen look I think Rosemary would be good. They can grown quite big so may need keeping in check but they are very hardy and don’t require much maintenance. They are usually a rich dark green with lavender/blue flowers during the summer. To compliment the rosemary how about Lavender. There are lots of varieties around but you need to have a good hardy one to see you through the winters. To break-up the front of the containers/bed I suggest planting a few “lesser” periwinkles. These come in white, lilac or purple in lots of different shades. The leaf colours also differ so you could find one you like. The “greater” periwinkles have bigger flowers and grow too big and fast for containers. Just tuck them into the corners of each “box” and let them hang down. They do spread so you may need to pull them up to avoid them taking over the whole container. Finally, I thought the little space near the entrance could do with something. Mint is a great herb but extremely invasive so it is ideal in its own container. There are lots available, such as pineapple mint and apple mint so again you should find some you like. They will die down for the winter but will come back each spring. Regardless of the containers you use you will have to ensure that there is adequate drainage in the bottom. Punch some holes in the base of the containers and lift them slightly off the floor. To help the drainage and keep the weight down fill the bottom of the containers with a good layer of polystyrene which you get in packaging. Use good quality compost and add some vermiculite which will also help keep the weight down but will also aid drainage. I would also add a slow release fertilizer and some water-retaining granules. You won’t be able to use hard mulch so I would top off the planting with a good layer of well-rotted manure. This will help retain moisture, keep weeds down and add goodness to the soil. Each autumn you should add another layer.

Rust on Roses

Question:

How can I prevent my rose bushes getting rust, also do I need to put a pot ash in soil, they are just starting to get the leaves, then during the summer they get what I think is rust and they fall off.

Answer:

Rose rust fungi can survive over the winter on fallen leaves or on the soil surface. They can also become attached to objects such as stakes, fences and rose stems.

Spray your plants and surrounding area with a fungicide now before the overwintering spores germinate, make sure you spray both sides of the leaves and the stems. Try one of the following: Scotts Fungus Clear, Systhane Fungus Fighter or Roseclear 3 (the last two also contains an insecticide if this is needed), you should be able to get them at your local garden centre. These sprays also help control powdery mildew and blackspot.

If you prefer not to use chemicals pick up and burn or otherwise dispose of fallen and infected leaves. Prune the plants to keep them as open as possible and allow air to circulate. Cut out and destroy any rust lesions on the stems, as well as old and weakened wood.

For best results use a combination of natural and chemical solutions.

Our Plant of the Month for March is Hellebore

Hellebores can flower as early as January and continue on until late April producing lovely nodding, saucer-shaped, flowers in many colours. Their foliage is virtually evergreen, just cut down the old leaves during January or February to show the flowers off to their best. They are very low maintenance and they don’t mind the shade. Most prefer heavy soils with plenty of organic matter added each year.

Hellebores are a favourite of Crocus.co.uk, here’s why they like them: “Low maintenance, virtually evergreen with a long flowering period and tolerant of dry shade, these plants should play an essential part of the winter garden. Mix them with ferns, Anemone blanda or hyacinths to create a naturalised woodland carpet, or pot them up and make a seasonal feature of them on the patio.” Take a look at a selection of Hellebores from Crocus.co.uk, click on the pictures for more information:

Helleborus ‘Picotee’ Harvington Hellebore

Helleborus niger Christmas Rose

Helleborus Collection of Six

Take Hardwood Cuttings

Now is the time to take hardwood cuttings. Hardwood cuttings should be successful from most deciduous trees and shrubs, try buddleja, forsythia, philadelphus, ribes and roses. The best time to take the cuttings is during early and mid winter but don’t take them if frost is forecast. Take a good look at your chosen tree or shrub and select a branch/shoot which is about pencil thick and is fully mature. Don’t select anything which looks diseased or has any signs of pests. Remove the soft tips and cut to about 20cm in length. Trim the top just above a bud using a sloping cut, cut the bottom just below a bud using a straight cut. If you want you can dip the bottom of the cutting into hormone rooting compound but it is not always necessary for it to take successfully. The cuttings can be bought on either in large pots left in a cold frame or greenhouse, or direct into a well drained, sheltered spot in the garden. Push the cuttings into the soil leaving about a third above the soil level. The important thing is not to let the cuttings dry out. Leave the cuttings until next Autumn when they should be ready to plant out.

How do I move old roses

Question:

We have just bought a very old house in rural France for renovation. There are several established roses of varying types scattered about, some by both the front and rear walls of the house and some in the (much neglected) garden. I want to move them all into a large corner bed – about 4 sq. metres. The ones by the house will have to be moved first to allow rendering etc. to the exterior walls. This will take place in October. I understand I should prune them back quite hard and try to retain as much as possible of the rootball. The soil is heavy clay and I have access to horse-manure. Any advice about preparing the new bed, or the moving process would be much appreciated.

Answer:

This will be a tricky operation but it can be done with care. The most important thing is to prepare the new site before you begin moving the plants. You are fortunate in being able to begin a bed from scratch as it means you can give the distressed plants the best possible start. It will take a bit of work but the best thing you can do with your clay soil is to double dig the whole bed, here’s a link to my digging page to help you: http://www.gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/soil.htm#Digging0. Use plenty of well rotted horse manure; don’t use fresh manure as it will scorch the roots of the plants. When the bed is ready dig the holes which should be quite a bit bigger than the rootball. Add more manure into the bottom of the hole and sprinkle some rose fertiliser onto the soil which is to go back into the hole. If it is particularly hot it may be an idea to water around the area to be planted. Moving old roses isn’t easy as they can have very deep, long roots. The most important parts of the rootball are the small fibrous roots which take up the nutrients in the soil, it is important not to damage these. The long tap roots are used to get water. You are correct that they will need cutting back hard; however, if you think there is any chance of frost in the area you should leave enough stem to allow for possible die-back. It would be best if you can cut back the plants a week or two before moving them to allow them time to recover. When you are ready to move the plants deal with one at a time to reduce the stress time. As you say try to get as big a rootball as possible but you will have to cut through the fatter, longer roots. If you can get hold of some old sacks or canvas use it to wrap around the roots, if you can’t get canvas then the heavy garden rubbish bags with holes punched in them will do. Put the wrapped root ball in a large bucket or trug of water and make sure it doesn’t dry out and move it to the new area. Place the rootball into the new hole ensuring that the union (where the shoots join the root) is at soil level – it should not stand above it. Also make sure there is good contact with the base of the rootball and the bottom of the hole. Replace the soil around the rootball, again making sure there are no air pockets. Firm the soil well and give it a really good watering. Continue to water every day even if it rains. If the plants have taken you should begin some new growth within a couple of weeks at which time you can relax. Just watch out for frost. If the stems do die-back you may still have viable plants by spring time.

Rose Rust

Question:

Can anyone help with my problem? I have a red colouring infecting all type of my plants. Plants not performing well. They seem very sad and problem spreading every day. Is this red vein, need advice please?

Answer:

It is difficult for me to identify the problem from the description you have given me. However, I think it may be rust. Here is a link to the RHS page on Rose Rust which can also affect other plants. If this does not look correct then here is another link to their diagnostic page to help you identify it. Also, here is a link to the BBC Gardening pest and disease identifier which is very good. This is actually a pop-up so you may have to temporarily allow pop-ups in order for the page to appear.