How to Propagate your own Plants for Free

Buying new plants for your garden is one of life’s little pleasures and can be extremely satisfying but often expensive. Equally as satisfying and an awfully lot cheaper is propagating your own plants.

There are several methods available; softwood cuttings, semi-ripe cuttings, hardwood cuttings, root cuttings, leaf cuttings, division, layering and collecting and sowing seed. 

Softwood Cuttings

These cuttings are taken from the current years young growth between April and June.

• Choose a young side shoot and cut below a node about 5-10cm from the tip
• Remove the bottom leaves and immerse in a fungicide solution to avoid fungal infections
• Dip the base in rooting powder
• Place a few cuttings in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost
• Place the pot in a heated greenhouse or propagator or on a windowsill enclosed in a polythene bag

Keep the compost moist and once you begin to see new growth, pot individually into 10cm pots. Before planting out in the garden get them used to cooler temperatures by placing them outside during the day or move to a cool greenhouse.

Semi-ripe Cutting

These cuttings are taken from this year’s ripe growth between June and August.

• The base of the shoot should have started to turn brown
• Cut just below a node about 10-15cm from the tip or pull the shoot off with some of the woody tissue (heel) attached
• Remove the bottom leaves and immerse in a fungicide solution to avoid fungal infections
• Dip the base in rooting powder
• Place a few cuttings in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost
• Place the pot in a heated greenhouse or propagator or on a windowsill enclosed in a polythene bag

Keep the compost moist and once you begin to see new growth, pot individually into 10cm pots. Before planting out in the garden get them used to cooler temperatures by placing them outside during the day or move to a cool greenhouse.

Hardwood Cuttings

These cuttings are taken from this year’s woody growth between September and November.

• Cut a length just below and above a node about 15-30cm long
• Remove the leaves and dip the base in rooting powder
• Place a few in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost
• Place the pot in a cold frame or in the ground in an open, sheltered, sunny position

Ensure the soil is well drained and the cuttings should be rooted by the following Autumn.

Root Cuttings

These cutting should be taken between September and November.

• Expose the roots of shrubs or lift herbaceous plants and select a young root near the crown of the plant
• Cut a length 5cm long with a straight cut at the top and a diagonal cut at the base
• Immerse in fungicide and insert in a pot of compost so the top is level with the top of the compost
• Cover with 0.5cm compost.
• Fine roots should be laid on the top of the compost and covered lightly
• Place in a cold greenhouse or cold frame and keep the compost moist.

The cuttings should have rooted by the following spring when they can be potted on.

Leaf Cuttings

There are three methods of taking leaf cuttings.

1. The first involves taking a whole leaf including the stalk (petiole)
   1. Dip the base of the stalk in rooting powder
   2. Insert in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost so the stalk is buried
   3. Place in a propagator at 18-21 degrees C or enclose in a polythene bag and stand on a warm windowsill
   4. When growth appears at the base of the leaf lift and pot on
2. The second method is to take a whole leaf and cut halfway through the main vein on the back of the leaf
   1. Place the leaf, cut side down, on the top of the compost
   2. Place grit on top of the leaf to keep it in contact with the compost
   3. Place in a propagator at 18-21 degrees C or enclose in a polythene bag and stand on a warm windowsill
   4. New growth will appear at the cuts
3. The third method is mainly used on long leaves
   1. Cut the leaf into 5cm sections and dip the bottom edge in rooting powder
   2. Insert the leaf vertically into the compost to about half it’s length
   3. Place in a propagator at 18-21 degrees C or enclose in a polythene bag and stand on a warm windowsill
   4. New growth will form at the base

Division

Division involves dividing a plant into two or more plants and should be carried out on most perennials every 3-5 years to maintain their vigor.

• Divide in late autumn or early spring
• Lift the plant taking care not to damage the roots and shake off the soil
• Using a knife or spade cut the plant into three or four similar sized pieces
• Plant out each new section as soon as possible, adding compost and a general fertiliser

Layering

Layering works well on woody plants and involves growing a new plant while it is still attached to the parent plant.

• It is best carried out between late spring and autumn
• Find a stem which is flexible enough to bend to the ground
• Make a cut about 5cm long through a node and apply rooting powder
• Where the node touches the ground dig a small hole in the soil and add compost
• Bury the stem 10cm deep at the node and peg down to secure
• Tie the end of the stem to a support

Roots should develop within 18 months at which point it can be removed from the parent plant and planted in its own spot.

Sowing Seed

There are several advantages and disadvantage to propagating by seed.

Advantages:

• Large volume of seeds readily available
• Cheap
• Simple
• Vast choice of varieties
• Can be stored for a length of time

Disadvantages:

• Not all seeds come true to type
• Some plants have lost the ability to produce seed
• Some plants take a long time to mature and flower

Most people will buy their seeds from a garden centre or specialist seeds man and just follow the directions on the packet. However it is very easy to collect seed from your own garden and also completely free.

Some plants will seed themselves, usually where you don’t want them. Once they have seeded just thin them out and/or transplant to another part of your garden. You could also pot them on and give them to friends and family.

If you do use your own seed you must remember that most do not come true to type so will not necessarily resemble the plant they came from.

You must collect the seed when it is ripe; store pods in a warm, dry place until they split. Once you have the seed label them and keep in a dry, dark, well ventilated area at between 1 and 5 degrees C.

Seeds have six requirement in order to germinate:

• Seeds have little water which is why they stay dormant for so long so water is required to germinate
• The temperature required to germinate vary by seed but generally heat helps
• Oxygen is required for respiration
• Food is supplied within the seed, if planted too deeply the food with be exhausted before it is able to photosynthesise
• Some seeds require light to germinate
• Some seeds have chemical inhibitors which need to diminish before germination is possible

Some seeds are difficult to germinate and a number of techniques have been developed to overcome these difficulties:

• Soaking seed in warm water for 12-24 hours will soften the coating and help it absorb water and remove chemical inhibitors
• Scarification: Nick large seeds with a knife or rub smaller seeds with sandpaper. This weakens the coating and allows water to enter
• Stratification: Some seeds require a period of cold before they can germinate. Place the seeds in a 50:50 mixture of moist sand and compost and place in the fridge for 4-12 weeks
• Most seeds will germinate better with some heat

Hardy Annuals can be sown outside in March or April when the soil has started to warm up.

Biennials and Perennials can be sown later in May or June. Sow directly where you want them to flower/fruit or sow in seedbeds and transplant later.

• The soil should be raked to break up the soil and to remove any stones
• Firm the soil with the back of the rake and apply a general fertiliser
• If the area is dry, water well and allow to drain, this should be carried out 3-4 weeks in advance of sowing to allow weeds germinate
• Weed the area well then sow the seed thinly in drills 5-15mm deep
• Cover lightly with soil
• Ensure the soil is kept moist and weed free
• When the seedlings appear thin them out to around 10cm apart, carry out a final thinning to 15-20cm depending on the size of the final plant.

Other seeds can be sown in a greenhouse, a propagator or on a window sill.

• Ideally use a compost formulated specifically for growing seed
• Fill a seed tray to the top with compost and gently firm, wet the compost and allow to dry
• Scatter the seed thinly on the surface of the compost and cover lightly with compost
• Cover with a sheet of glass or place in a propagator at a temperature of 18-21 degrees C
• Do not allow the compost to dry out
• Once the seedlings begin to show remove the cover/glass and move to where they can get maximum light but not in direct sunlight
• When the seedlings develop their first proper leaves prick them out into individual pots being careful not to damage the roots
• Never handle seedlings by their stems.

If the seeds are to go outside they need should be first moved to a closed cold frame to get them used to the change in temperature. After a few days they can be left in an open cold frame or stood outside during the day.

They can be planted out into well prepared ground once all risk of frost has passed.

Which growing medium should I use?

Question:
I have read in a well known gardening book that plants do not like being transplanted into a different medium. Does that include transplanting from peat based raising plant medium to garden soil?

Answer:
I must admit I don’t worry too much about the different types of growing medium. I use a good quality everyday compost and if I need it to be free draining, or for sowing seeds and planting cuttings, I add grit or vermiculite, if I need it rich I add manure, if I need it more fertile I’ll add pelleted chicken manure. When planting into the garden I add compost to the planting hole but back fill with the garden soil I’ve removed from the hole so it is not such a shock for the plant. There are only two situations in which I use the “correct” medium and that is to use ericaceous compost/soil for acid lovers and aquatic soil for planting in ponds. So far this method has not caused me any problems.

How do you grow your own cut flowers?

Buying cut flowers on a regular basis can be quite costly, so why not try growing your own in the garden?

They can be grown in their own cutting bed or mixed into a border to add to the display; either way you could raise enough flowers to have a constant supply of fresh blooms for your home.

To get the best quality flowers it is best to grow them in a sunny spot on well drained, fertile soil. Most will need to be supported to avoid damage and it is also wise to provide shelter from strong winds.

What typs of flowers can I grow?

• Half hardy annuals

• • The are the easiest to grow as the seed are sown directly into the soil where you want them flower
  • Sow between March and May, staggering the sowings to get a succession of flowers over the summer
  • Once all the flowers have been cut and no more buds form, lift the entire plant and put on the compost heap
  • Repeat the process next spring
  • Some examples are:
    • tobacco plants (nicotiana)
    • zinnia
    • snapdragons
    • cosmos
• Biennials
  • Sow seed between May and July to flower the following year
  • Sow where they are to flower or in seed trays
  • As with the annuals, discard after flowering is over
  • Keep sowing each May to get more flowers each year
  • Some examples are:
    • erysimum (wallflowers)
    • sweet william
    • dianthus
• Perennial
  • These will flower year after year so are a good investment
  • Plant rooted cuttings in spring or pot-grown specimens at any time
  • Perennials will die down for winter and most will be OK outside, however dahlias will need a good layer of mulch over them to help them through
  • Some examples are:
    • dahlia
    • chrysanthemum
    • alchemilla mollis
• Bulbs
  • Plant spring flowering bulbs at the end of summer or early autumn
  • Once the flowers have been cut and no more buds appear leave the foliage on the plant to die down naturally, this provides the bulb with food for the following year
  • Some examples are:
    • daffodils
    • tulips
    • allium

Most plants will benefit from being picked regularly as it will encourage more buds to form and extend your cutting season.

Keep all plants well watered throughout the growing season a feed every couple of weeks.

The Gardening Register Rose

Here is the first photograph of The Gardening Register Rose.

For my birthday last year I was bought a Name A Rose Gift Box. In the box is sachet of seeds which you plant as per the instructions. Once done you fill in the Rose Naming form and send it off then back comes a Personalised Certificate confirming the rose name.

I am the first to admit that I never thought the seeds would germinate never mind turn into a healthy plant; infact, in my case two healthy plants.

Each plant has been trying to flower for a number of weeks but I kept removing the buds to allow them to concentrate on producing roots. However, while I was away over the weekend one of them went ahead and flowered. I think it’s a lovely colour and I’ll be very proud to have it in my garden.

It is highly likely that the second plant will produce a different flower, either in colour or style but that’s part of the excitment.

If I can bring both plants to full maturity I will propagate them over the years to come and may even offer them for sale!

To get your own Name a Rose Gift Box and grow your own roses visit Getting Personal now.

Questions for January 2008

Question

HI, I need some advice please on what to do with an old veggie patch in my backyard. The previous owner maintained a veggie patch, taking up about one-third of the yard.  It is no longer maintained as a veggie patch and if I could afford it I would makeover the whole backyard.  That area is now just a patch of dirt that is overgrown with weeds.  The man that mows my front lawn previously cleared it, but then I found that the loose soil was unsightly and would blow onto the paved area on windy days. It also had a lot of debris in it (from old construction work on my house, bits of broken plaster) that was unnoticeable while the weeds were growing over it. How do I keep the patch looking neat, would it be possible to cover it over with gravel or wood chips?  I don’t want to spend a lot of money by putting a lawn over it as I intend to redo the whole area someday.

Answer

It should be quite easy to deal with this area. First of all I would ensure that all the weeds are well and truly dead by treating the area with a good quality perennial weed killer. Leave it for a few weeks to see if any annual weeds germinate and if they do pull them out by hand. Then you should lay a weed suppressing membrane ensuring that the whole area is well covered. You will be able to buy this from your local garden centre or DIY store. Finally lay a thick layer of your chosen mulch. You can use anything you like as they all do the same job. The thing to remember is that weed seeds will find there way into the mulch and germinate. However they are usually quite weak so if you pull them up as soon as you see them they should be quite easy to control.

Question

I have just bought a lovely Cordyline australis red star it says on the plant card its only half hardy and wont survive hard frosts yet elsewhere I have read its fully hardy and the frost wont damage it I have bought it in doors placed it where it can get plenty of light and avoided putting it near radiators so should I keep it indoors for now or plant it out it is in a large black plastic pot at moment I have other Cordylines which have done ok over last two winters though different from this one

Answer

You are correct that some Cordylines do survive the winter but I think it best to play safe. Leave it indoors over this winter and plant it out into a sheltered, sunny spot once the risk of frost has passed. Next winter cover the leaves with horticultural fleece to protect it. Alternatively plant it into a nice pot and bring it indoors each winter.

Question

I have a very shaded area of my garden 5 6 hours max sun on a good day in summer I was looking at a relatively inexpensive way of planting some form of hedge that will not grow much over 3ft but will be noticeable perhaps something that may have flowers or berries on at some stage in the year any advice welcomed

Answer

I have done some research and found a few plants which should make a good, low hedge with some interest. There are not many hedging plants which like full shade so I have also included some that like partial shade. They should still do OK although they may bloom a little later than usual. Switch Ivy – likes acid soil, Snowy Woodrush – I don’t know this one well but enjoys full shade, Common Box – needs to be kept well pruned to shape, Berberis – likes sun or shade. Lovely colour but has thorns, Pyracantha – also like sun or shade but again is thorny and will need pruning well each year, Red-barked Dogwood – the red bark is even better when cut right down each year.

Questions for September 2007

Question:

Could you let me know how to prune Iceland Poppies?

Answer:

Iceland Poppies are Biennials which means that they flower the year after they are sown and then die. Therefore, they do not require pruning. Once they are past their best pull them up. They often seed themselves so you may get flowers year after year.

Question:

I have a strawberry barrel.  Can I pot on the runners which appear to have small roots and do I leave them attached to the main plant until established?

Answer:

Yes you can pot on the strawberry runners as long as they have rooted. Just detach from the mother plant and put in small pots with a good quality potting compost. Give them a good watering to get them going. They should be OK outside in a sheltered spot but if you have a cold greenhouse that would be good too.

Question:

I know this is probably a stupid question but I am a beginner gardener I was wondering whether I could plant a Christmas tree in the garden that I have bought from a garden shop and will it still grow many thanks sorry for the silly question

Answer:

Good afternoon, thank you for your email. It is not a silly question really as it does depend on what type of Xmas tree you have. Although the majority of Christmas trees are sold with a cut trunk but some are sold in pots with their roots intact. Although they tend to be more expensive, they do last a lot longer and have the added advantage of being able to be planted out in the garden. Follow these guidelines for the best chance of success:

• If it has been kept indoors it will need to get used to the cold weather before planting it out
• When you are ready to plant it out stand it in a bucket of water, still in its pot, until it’s thoroughly wet It will grow very big so choose its final position carefully
• Dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot and the same depth as the pot
• Add some organic matter into the bottom of the hole e.g. well rotted manure or good quality compost If you’re planting in the spring sprinkle in some general fertilizer too
• Remove the plant from its pot
• If it is pot-bound (the roots are tightly packed in the pot) tease out a few of the biggest roots
• Stand the plant in the hole with its best side facing the direction from which you’ll normally view it
• Check that the top of the rootball is level with the surrounding soil, and that the plant is standing upright
• Mix more organic matter with the excavated soil and fill in around the rootball
• Firm gently with your foot
• Water thoroughly
• Spread an layer of mulch
• Keep well watered for the first few weeks regardless as to whether it rains or not

Questions for August 2007

Question:

I bought a lavender tree lavandula dentata I planted about 6weeks ago it does say its hare had only the odd night of frost but don t expose to prolonged frost we have had only the odd night of frost since I bought it I have noticed today there are one or two brown spikes on it and the rest seem to be drooping I have given it a feed of miracle grow rose and shrub food I am been unduly concerned will it perk up when the weather gets warmer and is there any thing I can specifically do to help it.

Answer:

Unfortunately Lavandula dentate (French Lavender) is not hardy in the UK so should be kept indoors during the winter. You could try bringing it in now, keeping it warm for the next few weeks to see if it perks up. Don’t cut off the brown spikes just yet. If you still have some green growth by the end of April then prune it back before placing outdoors for the summer. Be careful not to prune into any old or brown woody parts of the plant as it will never re-grow from these areas.

Question:

I would like to know if I could put my magnolia in a container as I am moving house and the garden is all slabs, it is around 2 to 3 years old and around 4 foot.

Answer:

My mum has successfully grown her magnolia in a pot for years and it always looks good. I assume it is in the ground at the moment so you will have to carefully lift it ensuring you don’t damage the roots. Make sure it doesn’t dry out before placing it in as large a pot as possible. Put lots of crocks in the bottom to help drainage and add a slow release fertilizer to the soil around the plant. Each year top off the plant with new compost and / or manure to keep the soil well fed. You may find it goes into shock this year but it should be OK by next year’s flowering season. You will find that the plant won’t grow as big as it would if it was in the ground and it may not live as long either.

Question:

I currently live in West Sussex and do hope that you can give me some advice on the Meyers lemon tree that I purchased last year. You see I am new to the way of gardening here in England, as I spent most of my gardening life in the tropical area of South Africa where it never gets really cold. As I have already mentioned I purchased a lemon tree, which I put into a huge pot on my patio, but now I see that during the course of winter it has lost all its leaves and a lot of the tips of the branches have gone brown. I did not place it indoors, as I do not have the strength to be lugging it around – nor did I cover it with anything. My question is do I throw the tree away or do you think it will pick up again in spring.

Answer:

Unfortunately citrus plants will not survive outside during an English winter. However, having said that, if you have not had a hard frost and it’s in a sheltered position then you may get away with it. I wouldn’t give up on it just yet. Buy some horticultural fleece (available from garden centres or the larger DIY stores, cover it for the rest of the winter and make sure it doesn’t get too wet. If it’s survived you should see new leaves appearing when the weather warms up during April/May.

Question:

Can you please tell me any plants besides Aubrietia that you can plant in the top of a walled raised bed to hang over or to plant vertically in the wall?

Answer:

Please find below some suggestions. Most of these are alpines and do require a well drained soil. Cerastium (Snow-in-summer) – colour: white Iberis (Candytuft) – colour: white Linaria (Toadflax) – colour: various – there is an upright version of this too Saponaria (Soapwort) – colour: pink. You could also consider planting a nice coloured, small leaved ivy to trail down and plant some low growing alpines, such as Thrift to add some height. If you don’t mind a bit of work you could consider planting trailing geraniums or other colourful annuals each year.

Question:

Our neighbours have just built an extension, the side wall of which overlooks our back garden. Unfortunately, a variety of bricks have been used and they haven’t been spaced out very well with the result that the wall overlooking our back garden is unsightly and also oppressive. We would like a fast growing plant which would hide the wall. The wall goes up to 310 cm in height. Please could you advise us as to what would be the best plant to hide this wall and which would grow quickly?

Answer:

My ideal would be ivy. There are lots of different varieties giving you a wide selection of leaf sizes and colours which are evergreen. Once established it is extremely fast growing and also has the benefit of being able to climb without support and will grow in any situation. The other is the Montana range of Clematis which again is very fast growing and has the extra benefit of fragrant flowers in the spring. However you will need to erect some sort of support structure such as trellis or wires before planting. A sunny site will give the best results. Which ever plant you choose make sure you don’t plant it too close to the wall as it won’t be able to get as much water as it needs. If you go to my Plant your Garden page http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/planting.htm.  You will see an advert from Crocus. If you click the Climbers box you will be able to enter some information about the location and features required and receive a number of suggestions back.

Question:

I’ve got a question about holly trees that you might be able to answer for me…! As you know – you need male and female holly for the female plant to produce berries, but do the male and female plant need to be the same variety?? I have a silver queen (male) and a golden king (female) – will I get berries from this??

Answer:

I have double checked and you only need to have one male holly, of any variety, to pollinate several female plants of any variety. Therefore the two you have will do fine; the female plant will produce the berries, not the male. If you’d like more berries you could buy another female variety.

Question:

I am the General Manager of a psychiatric unit in London. We have recently built a secure steel balcony to provide additional outdoor space to one of our first floor wards. The construction is a ‘metal cage’ with a very raw look to it and I would appreciate it if you could give me some ideas on the types of plants we would use to brighten up the area. The balcony is south facing and I would preferably like ones that are easy to manage and stay evergreen so there is colour all year round. Have you any suggestions. The main problem is that for safety reasons we can not use climbing plants as patients could use these to climb up and fall, we can not use plants that have poisonous leaves or berries as patients could eat these and we are unable to use plants that have sharp edges as patients may use these to self harm or ones that attract bees in case of allergic reaction to possible bee stings. In addition, we would require the plants to be in pots that are too heavy for a patient to lift in case they throw them. As you can see from a non-gardeners point of view I am struggling to find the appropriate plants and your assistance and advice would be very welcome.

Answer:

I’ve come up with some ideas and attach an outline of a plan which may be of interest. My first thought was to fit a bench across the left-hand 2.4m section. This could be attached to the balcony and would allow seating for a few people. I have also left room for quite a large table and six chairs. Your idea of galvanized containers screwed into the patio seems a good idea and I’ve found a couple of sites which may be able to provide them. and http://shop.theurbangarden.co.uk/product_select.asp?prtID=49&d=planters. The alternative is to have a raised bed built into the corner which is also attached to the balcony as per my plan. You could have it built as one big “box” or if you had six separate boxes they could be tiered so that the outermost ones are lower than the top ones. This would provide more interest and allow for plants to cascade the corners of each “box”. As for plants. My initial thought is to use Herbs. These are usually soft and are, of course, edible. For added interest I thought a few grasses. I have found a few examples of my thoughts on Crocus.co.uk and have attached a link to their page so you can find out a little more about them. Fennel (especially Bronze which is a lovely colour) these grow to about 1.8m but not very wide so you could fit in quite a few. They are light and move with the wind giving a feeling of movement. I find it best to snip off the flowers to avoid them going to seed and ruining the look. Also, they will die down for the winter but this also means it doesn’t take over. To compliment the colour and movement of the Fennel I thought a few soft grasses would be nice. They tend to give great autumn colour and if left over the winter they provide structure and look nice when frosted. They will have to be cut back to allow the new growth through but it’s not a hard job. Here are a couple of examples. For an evergreen look I think Rosemary would be good. They can grown quite big so may need keeping in check but they are very hardy and don’t require much maintenance. They are usually a rich dark green with lavender/blue flowers during the summer. To compliment the rosemary how about Lavender. There are lots of varieties around but you need to have a good hardy one to see you through the winters. To break-up the front of the containers/bed I suggest planting a few “lesser” periwinkles. These come in white, lilac or purple in lots of different shades. The leaf colours also differ so you could find one you like. The “greater” periwinkles have bigger flowers and grow too big and fast for containers. Just tuck them into the corners of each “box” and let them hang down. They do spread so you may need to pull them up to avoid them taking over the whole container. Finally, I thought the little space near the entrance could do with something. Mint is a great herb but extremely invasive so it is ideal in its own container. There are lots available, such as pineapple mint and apple mint so again you should find some you like. They will die down for the winter but will come back each spring. Regardless of the containers you use you will have to ensure that there is adequate drainage in the bottom. Punch some holes in the base of the containers and lift them slightly off the floor. To help the drainage and keep the weight down fill the bottom of the containers with a good layer of polystyrene which you get in packaging. Use good quality compost and add some vermiculite which will also help keep the weight down but will also aid drainage. I would also add a slow release fertilizer and some water-retaining granules. You won’t be able to use hard mulch so I would top off the planting with a good layer of well-rotted manure. This will help retain moisture, keep weeds down and add goodness to the soil. Each autumn you should add another layer.

Plant of the Month for June

Our Plant of the Month Papaver orientale or Oriental Poppy produces delicate flowers from May to July above bristly, grey-green leaves. The flower colours vary from white, through pink to red.

They are a fast-growing plant and easy to grow, the pale papery flowers contrast especially well with purple foliage plants such as Heuchera.

 

Try it alongside grasses or late summer-flowering perennials, such as dahlias, which will provide interest when the plant has died back.

They take little care just cut back to ground level after flowering and lift and divide large clumps in autumn.

They prefer full sun and moist, well-drained soil and are fully hardy. If you don’t want them to take over the whole border, dead head before the plant sets seed.

 

BUY NOW!

 

Here are a selection of Oriental Poppies from Crocus.co.uk

click here to find out more or to go shopping

 

Papaver orientale ‘Karine’	Papaver orientale ‘Beauty of Livermere’	Papaver orientale ‘Patty’s Plum’	Papaver orientale ‘Perry’s White’

Brown patches on lawn

Question:

We have brown patches on the lawn how do we repair it?

Answer:

It depends what has caused the patches. Do you have a dog?

When dogs urinate on lawns, it scorches the grass causing brown patches to appear. Both male and female dogs can cause this damage but whereas male dogs urinate in small amounts in lots of different places, female dogs tend to urinate in one place concentrating the damage in one spot. It is the high concentration of nitrogen in a dog’s urine which, in large amounts can result in dead patches of lawn. The best solution to this problem is to add water to the affected area as soon as possible to dilute the urine and neutralize the nitrogen. Adding horticultural lime or powdered gypsum to the water will restore the pH level. In the long run the bare patches will usually green up by themselves, however, the likelihood is that the grass will be replaced by clover or moss making for an untidy lawn.

Therefore the best solution is to repair the damaged patches. There are two ways to do this. The first is to cut out the affected areas and replace with a piece of turf cut to the same size and shape. The second is to scrape away the dying or dead grass and reseed. To find out how to carry out these tasks visit our full articles: Producing a Lawn From Seed and Producing a Lawn from Turf. Just follow the instructions but concentrate purely on the damaged areas.

One thing to bear in mind is that the repaired areas may grow slightly different from the rest of the lawn as the seed or turf seed mixture may not be the same as the original lawn. If you only have a small lawned area it my be better to replace the whole thing using the instructions in the links above.

Runner Bean Seeds

Question: Information needed on how to store and what is the the right time of the year to pick runner beanes for seeds to grow next season. Do you leave the beans in the pod to dry out, before opening? Answer: You should leave the pods to mature and dry on the plant for as long as possible into the autumn. Ideally the pods should be so dry they are crispy but if this is not possible, uproot the plants and hang them upside down somewhere warm until the pods are completely dry. Once collected, leave the seeds in a dry place for a few days to make sure they dry off properly. Once completely dry store them in a paper envelope so that condensation doesn’t form and ruin the seed. Keep the envelope in a cool, dry place until they are ready to sow the following April once all risk of frost has passed. Although runner beans are very tender and may be killed by early frosts before seeds are mature, they are also perennial, forming a (poisonous) underground tuber. These tubers flower sooner than plants grown from seed, so if you want you can dig up the tubers and store them over winter, planting them out once danger of frost has passed. This method also has the added bonus of producing new plants that are true to the mother plant.

Propagating Plants for your Garden

Buying new plants for your garden is one of life’s little pleasures and can be extremely satisfying but often expensive. Equally as satisfying and an awfully lot cheaper is propagating your own plants.

Softwood Cuttings

These cuttings are taken from this year’s young growth between April and June. Choose a young side shoot and cut below a node about 5-10cm from the tip. Remove the bottom leaves and immerse in a fungicide solution to avoid fungal infections and dip the base in rooting powder. Place a few cuttings in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost and place the pot in a heated greenhouse or propagator or on a windowsill enclosed in a polythene bag. Keep the compost moist. Once you begin to see new growth, pot individually into 10cm pots. Before planting out in the garden get them used to cooler temperatures by placing them outside during the day or move to a cool greenhouse.

Semi-ripe Cutting

These cuttings are taken from this year’s ripe growth between June and August. The base of the shoot should have started to turn brown. Cut just below a node about 10-15cm from the tip or pull the shoot off with some of the woody tissue (heel) attached. Remove the bottom leaves and immerse in a fungicide solution to avoid fungal infections and dip the base in rooting powder. Place a few cuttings in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost and place the pot in a heated greenhouse or propagator or on a windowsill enclosed in a polythene bag. Keep the compost moist. Once you begin to see new growth, pot individually into 10cm pots. Before planting out in the garden get them used to cooler temperatures by placing them outside during the day or move to a cool greenhouse.

Hardwood Cuttings

These cuttings are taken from this year’s woody growth between September and November. Cut a length just below and above a node about 15-30cm long. Remove the leaves and dip the base in rooting powder. Place a few in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost and place the pot in a cold frame or in the ground in an open, sheltered, sunny position. Ensure the soil is well drained. The cuttings should be rooted by the following Autumn.

Root Cuttings

These cutting should be taken between September and November. Expose the roots of shrubs or lift herbaceous plants and select a young root near the crown of the plant. Cut a length 5cm long with a straight cut at the top and a diagonal cut at the base. Immerse in fungicide and insert in a pot of compost so the top is level with the top of the compost. Cover with 0.5cm compost. Fine roots should be laid on the top of the compost and covered lightly. Place in a cold greenhouse or cold frame and keep the compost moist. The cuttings should have rooted by the following spring when they can be potted on.

Leaf Cuttings

There are three methods of taking leaf cuttings. The first involves taking a whole leaf including the stalk (petiole). Dip the stalk in tooting powder and insert in a pot of 50:50 sand and compost so the stalk is buried. Place in a propagator at 18-21 degrees C or enclose in a polythene bag and stand on a warm windowsill. When growth appears at the base of the leaf lift and pot on. The second method is to take a whole leaf and cut halfway through the main vein on the back of the leaf. Place the leaf, cut side down, on the top of the compost. Place grit on top of the leaf to keep it in contact with the compost. Place in a propagator at 18-21 degrees C or enclose in a polythene bag and stand on a warm windowsill. New growth will appear at the cuts. The third method is mainly used on long leaves. Cut the leaf into 5cm sections and dip the bottom edge in rooting powder. Insert the leaf vertically into the compost to about half it’s length. Place in a propagator at 18-21 degrees C or enclose in a polythene bag and stand on a warm windowsill. New growth will form at the base.

Division

Division involves dividing a plant into two or more plants and should be carried out on most perennials every 3-5 years to maintain their vigor. Divide in late autumn or early spring. Lift the plant taking care not to damage the roots and shake off the soil. Using a knife or spade cut the plant into three or four similar sized pieces and plant out each new section as soon as possible, adding compost and a general fertiliser.

Layering

Layering works well on woody plants and involves growing a new plant while it is still attached to the parent plant. It is best carried out between late spring and autumn. Find a stem which is flexible enough to bend to the ground. Make a cut about 5cm long through a node and apply rooting powder. Where the node touches the ground dig a small hole in the soil and add compost. Bury the stem 10cm deep at the node and peg down to secure. Tie the end of the stem to a support. Roots should develop within 18 months at which point it can be removed from the parent plant and planted in its own spot.

Seeds

There are several advantages and disadvantage to propagating by seed.

• Advantages: Large volume of seeds readily available, Cheap, Simple, Vast choice of varieties, Can be stored for a length of time
• Disadvantages: Not all seeds come true to type, Some plants have lost the ability to produce seed, Some plants take a long time to mature and flower

Most people will buy their seeds from a garden centre or specialist seeds man and just follow the directions on the packet. However it is very easy to collect seed from your own garden and also completely free. Some plants will seed themselves, usually where you don’t want them. Once they have seeded just thin them out and/or transplant to another part of your garden. You could also pot them on and give them to friends and family. If you do use your own seed you must remember that most do not come true to type so will not necessarily resemble the plant they came from. You must collect the seed when it is ripe; store pods in a warm, dry place until they split. Once you have the seed label them and keep in a dry, dark, well ventilated area at between 1 and 5 degrees C.

Seeds have six requirement in order to germinate:

1. Seeds have little water which is why they stay dormant for so long
2. The temperature required to germinate vary by seed but generally heat helps
3. Oxygen is required for respiration Food Food is supplied within the seed. If planted too deeply the food with be exhausted before it is able to photosynthesise
4. Some seeds require light to germinate
5. Some seeds have chemical inhibitors which need to diminish before germination is possible
6. Some seeds are difficult to germinate and a number of techniques have been developed to overcome these difficulties:
   1. Soaking seed in warm water for 12-24 hours will soften the coating and help it absorb water and remove chemical inhibitors
   2. Scarification: Nick large seeds with a knife or rub smaller seeds with sandpaper. This weakens the coating and allows water to enter
   3. Stratification: Some seeds require a period of cold before they can germinate. Place the seeds in a 50:50 mixture of moist sand and compost and place in the fridge for 4-12 weeks

Hardy Annuals can be sown outside in March or April when the soil has started to warm up. Biennials and Perennials can be sown later in May or June. Sow directly where you want them to flower/fruit or sow in seedbeds and transplant later. The soil should be raked to break up the soil and to remove any stones. Firm the soil with the back of the rake and apply a general fertiliser. If the area is dry, water well and allow to drain. This should be carried out 3-4 weeks in advance of sowing to allow weeds germinate. Weed the area well then sow the seed thinly in drills 5-15mm deep. Cover lightly with soil. Ensure the soil is kept moist and weed free. When the seedlings appear thin them out to around 10cm apart, carry out a final thinning to 15-20cm depending on the size of the final plant.

Other seeds can be sown in a greenhouse, a propagator or on a window sill. Ideally use a compost formulated specifically for growing seed. Fill a seed tray to the top with compost and gently firm, wet the compost and allow to dry. Scatter the seed thinly on the surface of the compost and cover lightly with compost. Cover with a sheet of glass or place in a propagator at a temperature of 18-21 degrees C. Do not allow the compost to dry out. Once the seedlings begin to show remove the cover/glass and move to where they can get maximum light but not in direct sunlight. When the seedlings develop their first proper leaves prick them out into individual pots being careful not to damage the roots. Never handle seedlings by their stems.

If the seeds are to go outside they need should be first moved to a closed cold frame to get them used to the change in temperature. After a few days they can be left in an open cold frame or stood outside during the day. They can be planted out into well prepared ground once all risk of frost has passed.