Jobs to do in December

In the Flower Garden:

• Move patio containers to a sheltered spot if very cold
• Plant out Wallflowers
• Plant out new rose bushes
• Take root cuttings of suitable perennials
• Move shrubs growing in the wrong place

In the Vegetable Garden:

• Take hardwood cuttings from healthy fruit bushes
• Start pruning apple and pear trees
• Cut down Jerusalem artichokes
• Prune Gooseberry bushes Sow winter lettuces

In the Greenhouse:

• Monitor heaters to ensure they are working efficiently
• Ventilate greenhouses on warm, dry days
• Plant up Hippeastrums (Amaryllis) bulbs
• Treat timber with preservative
• Use rainwater to keep potted azaleas moist

Lawns:

• Brush away fallen leaves
• Keep off the lawn when it is wet or frozen
• Turfing is possible during fine spells

General:

• Wrap insulation around all outside taps and pipes
• Order early from seed catalogues
• Dig compost into beds empty areas of soil
• Check tree and climber ties are secure
• Keep bird feeders clean

Places to Stay for Garden Lovers

Special Places to Stay in Britain for Garden Lovers is an essential buy if you love gardens and enjoy visiting other peoples gardens.

If you can pull yourself away from your own garden for a few days what could be better than being able to wander around another garden in your own time without any crowds.

Alastair Sawday’s Special Places to Stay in Britain for Garden Lovers recommends over 100 places to stay, all with beautiful gardens including islands, estates and organic farms.

The book is currently for sale at Amazon from just £12.59* and has marvellous reviews, here’s what people are saying:

“This book is full of exquisite photos of flowers, trees, shrubs, fountains, ponds, arbours and everything anyone could wish to see in the ideal garden.”

“I don’t know if all the Sawdays guides will look like this in the future – in my opinion they should. The gardening tips from the B and B owners are a lovely thought too.”

“Special Places to Stay in Britain for Garden Lovers not only met but exceeded my expectations. It’s wonderful new larger format allowing for more photographs to, as another famous guidebook boasts, show you what other guidebooks only tell you. The book really is a pleasure to read in it’s informative, yet casual style. Once again these properties have been thoroughly researched and there is a good spread across Britain. The book looks and feels wonderful and you can lose yourselves for hours researching your next trip or find the right place straight away using the well thought out indexes and maps. If you are planning a trip away I would highly recommend this book to you – one trip and you’ll have gotten your money’s worth!!”

Click here to read More Reviews.

* price correct at time of publication

Online Garden Centres

Useful Links: Online Garden Centres

Plants Galore Online Quality garden plants, shrubs, perennials, trees, bulbs, plant care products and garden furniture all offered a amazingly competitive prices.

The 12 Step Beginners Guide to Pruning

Not all shrubs require pruning but you may want to consider it in order to shape the plant, to encourage vigorous growth, flowering or fruit production or to remove dead, damaged or diseased material.

Here is a beginners guide to pruning:

1. Pruning is best carried out immediately after flowering to ensure a good display the following year but a general pruning in Autumn is also usual particularly for roses
2. Always cut at a downward angle to allow rain to fall away and not sit on the cut
3. Pruning to remove spent flower heads is always a good idea as it stops the plant spending energy producing seed
4. Always use good quality, sharp, clean tools
5. Cut out dead or diseased stems right down to where they reach the roots or main stem
6. Take out any stems that cross over other stems as they will eventually join together and cause injury which can let in disease
7. Take a look at the plant and decide what size and shape you want and bear this is mind throughout the pruning process
8. Take a stem and starting at the tip look along it’s length to where it reaches the base. The “nodes” you see along the length are where either leaves, new stems or flowers will appear; you won’t know in advance which of these it will be
9. By pruning just before a node (i.e. before when looking from the tip to the base) you stimulate a chemical at the node which tells the plant to shoot out from there and produce a flower, leaf or another stem
10. If you prune after a node the chances are that the stem will die back from the end down to the next node and may even continue down the stem
11. To hard prune, count the number of nodes up the stem from the base; you should leave at least two nodes to allow for die-back so pruning just before the third node is usually ideal; this type of pruning produces new growth and reinvigorates the plant
12. For an annual prune when you just want to keep the shrub in shape so you should cut just above the node needed to maintain the shape; this type of pruning usually produces flowers and new leaves the following season

Next you can find out more about pruning specific types of plants:

Evergreens – During May cut out dead, weak or crossing branches and remove extra branches if the shrub is overcrowded. Examples: Camellia, Pieris, Rhododendron -

Early Flowering Deciduous Shrubs – Immediately after flowering cut out dead, weak or crossing branches and remove extra branches if the shrub is overcrowded. Cut back all branches which have flowered this year. Examples: Forsythia, Weigela, Deutzia, Philadelphus

Later Flowering Deciduous Shrubs – During January to March before the new growth appears cut out dead, weak or crossing branches and remove extra branches if the shrub is overcrowded. Cut back all old wood to the ground. Examples: Buddleia, Hypericum, Cornus

Damaged or Diseased Trees – Identify the diseased or damaged branches and cut back to healthy, clean wood.

Clematis

Group 1 – these are small-flowered species which flower in early spring on last season’s growth Immediately after flowering remove dead or damaged stems, and reduce other stems if needed. To renovate an older plant cut back to 15-30cm (6-12in) from the base immediately after flowering

Group 2 – large-flowered, flowering May-June on the previous year’s growth. Some flower again in summer on current season’s growth. Remove dead and damaged stems in early spring before growth begins, trimming all remaining stems to a pair of strong buds. To rejuvenate a mature specimen remove old shoots during spring

Group 3 – flowers late summer on current season’s growth. Cut back all growth to a pair of strong buds 15-20cm (6-8in) above soil level, before growth begins in early spring

Links: Plant Nurseries

Useful Links: Plant Nurseries

A Plantsmans Collection Botanica is a traditional English nursery in over 10 acres of beautiful Suffolk countryside. We offer advice on British Native and Natural Landscape Planting and all our plants are of English provenance. Hedging, fruit trees and other choice and heritage edibles. Botanical mature stock and Ornamental plants, shrubs, climbers, herbaceous, perennials, grasses, ferns, bamboos and conifers. Our plants are grown in soil as nature intended or pot grown in our own natural compost (100% peat free).

Camellia not flowering

Question:

I have a Camellia shrub but it will not flower. I have had it at lease 6 years and looks healthy enough but no flowers. Can you advise what I can do?

Answer:

Camellias are lovely shrubs and a great splash of colour at this time of year. They are relatively easy to grow but do need certain conditions; check the list below to see if any changes need to be made:

• They are woodland plants and prefer a sheltered site with light shade
• They need free-draining conditions
• The soil should have plenty of organic matter incorporated in the soil; leafmould is best
• They need an acid soil so if yours is in the ground check the ph. If it isn’t acidic then lift and plant in a container using ericaceous compost and feed regularly with an ericaceous feed
• If possible water with rain water rather than tap water
• Feed with an acidic feed or use fish, blood and bone or a seaweed product.
• Don’t feed after July as this can lead to the buds dropping off
• Buds will begin forming in late summer so make sure you water well during dry spells; even if it rains it is not always enough for a large shrub particularly if it is in a container
• Mulch with a good 3-4in layer of bark or leaf mould to help conserve water
• Once your shrub begins to bud don’t be worried if a few fall off; this is normal
• Some cultivars are tender so will need protection during the winter; if you know which yours is I can find out if it is tender
• Severe frost can damage young buds so think about where yours is located; if it is exposed consider moving it to a more sheltered position

How do I take cuttings from Peony and Rhododendron?

Question:

My late father has a Peony Rose and a Rhododendron and I want to take cuttings from these to give to other family members before the house is sold. Can you advise.

Answer:

It is extremely difficult to take cuttings of Peony and are best propagating by division. Carefully clear away the soil around a portion of root and cut pieces away with some root and at least one growth bud for each plant needed. Place into a pot with good quality compost and keep well watered until established.

Rhododendrons are also difficult to root successfully so to give it as much help as possible remove a thin slice of bark near the base of the stem when you take the cutting. Dip the wounded end in hormone rooting compound before potting in a good quality potting compost.

Cuttings should really be taken in the Spring or Autumn so if you can leave it a few weeks before taking yours it would be better. If you have to do it soon then ensure the cuttings get some sort of protection from cold, winds and frost.

Links: Plants and Seeds

Garden Plants, Garden Bulbs, Shrubs, Perennials, Trees and Seeds

Artificial Palm Trees Silk Plants Direct offers a wide collection of the artificial palm trees made from high quality silk. Our collection includes artificial Areca Palm trees and plants, Fishtail Palm, Fan Palm, Kentia, Phoenix, Rhapis and many more silk Palm trees and plants to decorate your dull place.

 

 

 

 

Vegetable Seeds Quality but cheap vegetable seeds from Seed Parade. Wide range of heirloom, traditional and hybrid varieties. Low prices and fast delivery in the UK and EU. Among the vegetable seeds you can find a good range of herb and flower seeds too. Heirloom tomato seed and sweet pea seed specialist, and one of the cheapest retailer on F1 garden seeds.

 

 

 

 

 

The Gift List Service for Garden Lovers! Getting Married? Inspire your guests and choose plants, garden products and designs as presents. Find out all about us on our jolly website: www.weddinggardencompany.co.uk

Florida Palm Trees

An excellent resource offering palm tree advice and tips for transforming your garden and landscape into a tropical paradise. We have over 50 most popular palm trees in our catalog with detailed description and colorful photos.

Bonsai Trees
This site provides bonsai articles and tips including pruning, shaping, soil and other bonsai care issues. Our catalog has over 100 most popular bonsai trees with detailed description and colorful photos.

Hyde Cottage Palms and Exotics
An established nursery specialising in hardy and half hardy exotics. Olives,gingers, palms,bamboo, shrubs, trees and much more!

where garden people meet!
Biggest selection of plants for gardeners and a permanent online plant fair for commercial users.

Lawn Care
Get the latest information on everything you need to know about lawn care, including building a lawn, lawn care & maintenance, product reviews & more.

The Sensative Plant
The Touch Me Not Plant /sensative plant or Mimisa Pudica – the plant that moves when touched

Florida Palm Trees
Provides Articles and Tips on how to care for a Palm Tree.

Purchase online hedging plants
Sell quality hedging plants online UK wide Secure online payment

A 3-day lifestyle extravaganza
Premier event of its kind in Scotland – a taste of the best in food, horticulture and entertainment.

Perennials Nashville
Visit our gardening website for a broad selection of links for gardening information, books, magazines and the best selections of annuals, biennials, perennials, herbs, flowers, plants, banana plant care, over-winter banana plant, botanicals, flowering trees and flowering shrubs for gardens and landscapes

BALI-HAI MAIL ORDER NURSERY – Specialise in Hosta 1100+ varieties, Phormium ,Rhodohypoxis, Tree Ferns and other Perennials by mail-order, shipping worldwide. Situated in the lovely Glens Of Antrim, Northern Ireland, U.K.

IMPACT PLANTS
Supplying large trees, large hedges and plants in large numbers

Garden Plants and Garden Planters
Floraselect provide a wide range of garden plants and garden planters online.

 

 

Mushrooms in the Lawn

Do you have mushrooms in your lawn?

The mushrooms you find in your lawn are actually helping to decay dead and rotting matter beneath the surface of the lawn with most of the activity taking place under the turf.

Underneath many lawns there are dead or dying tree roots, fallen leaves or thatch as they break down they are taken down by earthworms allowing the relase of nutrients into the soil. This activity is essential for the garden but can have unsightly side affects such as mushrooms growing on the surface of the lawn.

A few mushrooms will not to any harm to the grass but they can easily spread by the dispersal of their spores, or seeds. These spores are easily blown around the garden making the problem worse. However, if the mushrooms are growing under shrubs or in corners of the garden it is best to leave them to do their beneficial work.

As the mushrooms are not doing any harm to the lawn you can leave them if you want but if they are spoiling the look of your lawn then just simply brush them away with a brush as soon as they appear before they have a change to spread their spores.

The important thing to remember is that these are not edible mushrooms and can be poisonous if eaten.

Lawn mushrooms normally appear in damp conditions usually in the Autumn and to stop them taking hold ensure that the lawn is regularly scarified to remove any dead thatch or leaves.

Take a look at our Lawn Care pages for more information on how to look after your lawn.

Types of Plants – Hedges

Hedges are trees or shrubs which are planted close together to form a continuous row of foliage. They are usually cut to maintain a particular shape and height. Visit our Hedges page for more information.

Care:

• Choose healthy plants either bare rooted or container grown
• Clear the ground of all weeds
• The addition of organic matter or fertilisers is not required unless the soil is particularly sandy
• Water the plants well before planting
• Plant at regular intervals in holes big enough not to constrict the roots
• Water in well and apply a mulch to help retain moisture and keep down weeds
• Some species benefit from being pruned immediately after planting, check the label for details
• Shoots should be reduced to about 10cm
• Most deciduous plants should be reduced to about one-third in the autumn after planting
• Evergreens and informal hedges should not be cut-back until they are at least a year old.

Unfortunately we don’t have any hedges on our property. Here are some examples of plants which make great hedges, click the images to buy your own.

Fagus sylvatica – Common Beech

Pyracantha Red Column – Firethorn

Taxus baccata – English Yew

Types of Plants – Ground Cover Plants

Ground Cover plants are low growing, spreading shrubs which can cover a large area of ground, usually quite quickly. They suppress weeds and require very little attention.

Care: Clear the ground of weeds and dig over the soil, add well-rotted organic matter and fertiliser if required. Water the plants thoroughly before planting. Dig a hole twice as big as the pot. Plant at the same level as it was in the pot. Firm well, water and mulch.

Ground Cover Plants in our Garden: Below is a selection of ground cover plants we have in our garden; click the image to Buy your Own

Winter Hardy Evergreen Plants

Vinca major – Variegated Periwinkle*

Geranium – Johnson’s Blue

*Photographs owned by Linda Peppin if you wish to use these photographs in your own work please drop her a line using the contact us link below.

Types of Plants – Evergreens

Evergreens are plants that keep their leaves all year round although they do tend to shed a few along the way. They are great for giving the garden year round colour and shape. Trees, shrubs, climbers, conifers and perennials all have evergreen species so visit the individual pages for care instructions.

Evergreens in our Garden: Below is a selection of evergreen plants we have in our garden; click the image to Buy your Own

Hedera helix – Goldheart*

Vinca major – Variegated Periwinkle*

Polystichum setiferum – Multilobum Group*

*Photographs owned by Linda Peppin if you wish to use these photographs in your own work please drop her a line using the contact us link below.

Types of Plants – Alpine Plants

Alpines are small shrubs or perennials that grow naturally in mountainous areas and are often used in rockeries. They grow in poor, thin soils with very good drainage. Many are cushion or mat forming and creeping to prevent damage from wind and their fleshy or hair foliage prevents water loss. They do not like damp, humid conditions and like to have their foliage and roots kept dry.

Care: Alpines should be sited in full sun away from trees and in extremely well drained soil, if in doubt, add lots of extra grit. Alpines do very well in sink gardens or raised beds which show off small specimens. Many thrive in cracks between bricks in walls or between paving slaps in pathways.

Pests and Diseases to watch out for:

• Aphids: Treat with a suitable pesticide such as fatty acids
• Birds: Plants may be torn to pieces. Lay lengths of cotton across the plants as a deterrent
• Caterpillars: Remove by hand
• Cutworms: These pests eat through the plant just below soil level. Lift the damaged plant to expose the grub and remove by hand
• Slugs: Can completely devour a plant in one night. Use biological control such as nematodes or buy a prepared solution from your local garden centre

When deciding where to site your rock garden bear in mind the following requirements. Position it in a sunny area away from large trees or shrubs. Any good garden soil will do but it must be gritty and well drained. If yours isn’t, then dig in a good amount of coarse sand and/or stone chippings.

The stone you use for decoration can be any natural, weathered stone but Tufa is also useful. The rocks should be firmly placed in the soil to ensure that don’t move as the plants grow and should look as natural as possible.

If space is limited the best way of growing alpines is in raised beds, sinks or troughs. These can be as small or as big as you want and as long as they have good drainage holes the plants will do well. Place crocks over the drainage holes and add a planting mixture of 2 parts good loam, 1 part of peat or peat substitute, 1 part coarse sand and 1 part of stone chippings.

Allow the soil to settle before planting; planting in groups will give the best affect. Weed regularly by hand, do not feed and water only during dry spells. Each year dress the top of the soil with some of the planting mixture to keep it looking neat and to keep the roots covered.

Plant your Spring Flowering Bulbs

Now is the time to plant your spring flowering bulbs.

Spring Flowering Bulbs come in lots of shapes, sizes and colours but the one thing they have in common is the ability to turn a dull late winter, early spring garden into an oasis of light and colour. No garden is complete without the good old daffodil or tulip but there are many other spring flowering bulbs which will add additional interest.

There are bulbous plants for lots of different situations but nearly all require good drainage and many thrive in sunny sites. Many bulbous plants are threatened in the wild so it is important to buy bulbs from cultivated sources such as Crocus.co.uk which has a great range of colourful, healthy Spring Flowering Bulbs.

When planting incorporate well-rotted organic matter and a balanced fertiliser. Bulbs generally need planting quite deep; the general rule is three times their own depth. However, if you get the depth wrong most bulbs will pull themselves down into the ground using special, contractile roots. If you’re planting bulbs in heavy soil, add grit to the bottom of the hole to ensure good drainage.

A few bulbs prefer shallow planting. Plant Madonna lilies (Lilium candidum) with the tip of the bulb just showing above ground. Lay Crown Imperials (Fritillaria imperialis) on their sides so that water can’t collect in their hollow centre and make them rot.

Deadhead regularly and apply a low nitrogen, high potassium fertiliser in subsequent years. Lift and divide if they become overcrowded.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium cristophii – Star of Persia
Huge globes of small star-shaped, pinkish-purple flowers appear in summer above narrow, grey-green leaves. In bloom these fabulous globes – up to 20cm (8in) in diameter – have a metallic sheen. The faded flowerheads hold up well in the border and are useful for dried flower arrangements. Perfect for a sunny site, dotted in small groups among ornamental grasses, or as part of a Mediterranean scheme. Alliums look best planted between medium-sized herbaceous plants, which help to mask the strap-like leaves, which fade by the time the flowers appear.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’ – Dutch Garlic
Dense, rich-purple globes held high on erect stems above strap-like, mid green leaves appear in early summer. They look spectacular grouped in a pot, or in a sunny border, dotted in groups among ornamental grasses, or as part of a Mediterranean scheme. Alliums look best planted between medium-sized herbaceous plants, which help to mask the strap-like leaves, which fade by the time the flowers appear.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium sphaerocephalon – round-headed leek
Small, egg-shaped, claret-coloured flowerheads appear like drumsticks on tall, slender stems above strap-like, mid-green leaves in mid to late summer. Planted en masse in a border in full sun, these diminutive claret flowers look great emerging from a screen of foliage, or against a backdrop of ornamental grasses. They gently fade as summer comes to a close.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Anemone blanda blue-flowered – winter windflower blue-flowered
This is a wonderful plant that produces cheerful, daisy-like flowers in shades of blue and purple in March and April. These are perfect plants for naturalising in a mixed border around the base of deciduous shrubs, or adding spring colour to the edge of a woodland garden. For maximum impact, plant in bold drifts in September or October, and if happy, they should spread quite quickly.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Crocus chrysanthus ‘Cream Beauty’
Rich-cream goblets with brown flushes and deep golden-yellow throats, emerge in February and March amid slender, strap-shaped, mid green leaves. These spring-flowering crocuses are perfect for naturalising in sunny, well-drained areas of the lawn. Relatively vigorous, they soon form large colonies, which can be divided in early autumn for use in other parts of the garden.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Fritillaria meleagris – snake’s head fritillary
Pretty, pendent, white and pinkish-purple bells with distinctive checkerboard markings on slender stems in April and May. These delightful snake’s head fritillaries are perfect for naturalising in a moist woodland edge or wildflower garden. It’s essential to select a site where the soil remains moist in summer.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Galanthus nivalis ‘Viridapice’ – snowdrop
A taller variety with a distinctive, long spathe which looks like the flowers have a hood. This is a good choice for those looking for a slightly more unusual snowdrop, or those wanting to add to their collection as it is still quite rare. Both the inner and outer petals are white, but have green markings which make them look as if they have been painted with a brush.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Woodstock’ – Hyacinth
A fabulous hyacinth with deep magenta-purple blooms that are delicately scented. Plant in mixed beds in the garden or in pots on the patio so you can move them around for best effect. A great colour for mixing with deep purples or plum shades to create a ‘bruised’ border.

Browse the full range of Spring Flowering Bulbs from Crocus.co.uk

Aquatic Gardening

There are several points you need to consider before building your pond or water feature. Should it be formal or informal, natural or modern? Do you want to keep fish, grow plants or attract wildlife? Are there children to keep safe?

Once you have answered these questions you need to decide where you want to site the pond or water feature. A pond should be kept away from big trees and shrubs so ensure their roots don’t puncture the lining. If you want to keep fish you need to have a pretty deep pond to stop it freezing over the winter. The smallest you should build a pond is 60cm (2ft) deep and 1 x 1.5m (3 x 5ft) across. However, the bigger the better.

If childrens’ safety is and issue or you prefer not to have to maintain a pond then a water feature is an excellent compromise. You could build a wall fountain or a pebble pool which can be sited in sun or shade near to a power supply. If you do not have external power then a wide plant container or half a barrel, without drainage holes, is ideal. You can still grow small aquatic plants or use floating oxygenators such as water hyacinth. You will need to protect them during winter or empty the container and start again in the spring.

For more about aquatic gardening visit these articles: Build a Garden Pond and Pond Plants

Plant of the Month for August – Hydrangea

Our plant of the month for August is Hydrangea.

Hydrangeas are wonderful plants and often under rated; they flower for months right up to the frosts, they grow to a good sized shrub so are ideal for adding structure to your borders and they can be used as a cut flower too.

The most popular hydrangea are Hydrangea macrophylla Mopheads which have large ball-like blooms. Hydrangea macrophylla Lacecaps have a flat flower-head with an outer ring of large flowers surrounding a central group of smaller flowers.Hydrangea paniculata have cone shaped flowers.

The main colours of the flowers are white, pink and blue but they often bloom in shades of lilac and purple. Take a look below at a great selection from Crocus.co.uk.

If you buy a blue Hydrangea and want to keep the flowers blue it is best to grow it in acidic soils with a pH of 5.5. When grown on neutral soil (pH 7) the flowers will tend to turn more mauve or even pink.

To maintain the blue flowers keep the soil acidic by treating with aluminium salts or grow your plant in a large container filled with ericaceous compost and feed regularly with a special ericaceous feed.

White or pink hydrangeas are happy growing in neutral or alkaline soil.

To care for your hydrangea:

• In dry weather water regularly and soak well if there are signs of distress
• Keep the flower heads on over winter and remove them back to a strong pair of buds, in spring after the danger of frost has passed
• Take out diseased shoots
• Mulch young plants with a well-rotted manure or compost in spring
• Once established, remove a quarter to a third of the shoots to the base of the plant

BUY NOW

Click here to see the whole range of Hydrangea from Crocus.co.uk

Moving Monkey Puzzle Tree

Question:
We have planted a monkey puzzle tree from a container it did not have very big roots but looked very healthy a couple of the bottom branches are dying but the rest looks ok can you give me any advice on growing and feeding my tree as I would hate to lose it.

Answer:
All trees and shrubs take time to get established following a move, as long as you are keeping it well watered it should be OK.

However, the monkey puzzle trees like full sun and well-drained soil so check that it isn’t sitting in water and move it to a sunny area if it isn’t located in one currently.

The monkey puzzle tree is slow growing but can eventually grow to a height of 60-70ft and a width of 30-35ft so may eventually outgrow your garden. I know you’ve only just moved it out of a container but it may be better to grow it in a pot but the pot needs to be of considerable size in order for the tree to reach it’s full potential. Make sure you feed it regularly with a general feed such as pelleted chicken manure and mulch the surface with some well rotted organic matter such as manure. If it out grows its pot, wait until the autumn then re-pot in a large pot with plenty of drainage holes. Add some crocks or broken clay pots into the bottom to help drainage and to help stop it falling over, then fill with a good quality compost. Add a general feed such as pelleted chicken manure and mulch the surface with some well rotted organic matter such as manure. Each year you should top up the compost level, feed and add more organic matter.

If you do want to keep it in the ground keep it well watered during the first year and feed and mulch in the autumn.

Questions for April 2008

Question

I am not sure if you can help but I am looking to buy some coprosma evening glow or/and coprosma fire burst so far I have had little luck I have tried googling it but very poor results none of my local garden centres stock it I bought some last year from a local market and would like to get more I really want a fairly well established rather than a small gutting that needs to be grown on do you know of any online nurseries that would sell this also regards dogwood I really like the look of this but again not been able to find it in my garden centres does this come in the form of a shrub or bush has its something I am not familiar with thanks for any help you can provide

Answer

I have to admit to not knowing about Coprosma but I have managed to find a company who sell a few varieties. Click on this link:  http://www.burncoose.co.uk/site/plants.cfm?pn_id=176. There are several types of Dogwood (Cornus) so I have added a link to a few at Crocus for you to look at.

Question

We have a well established pear tree in our garden. The problem is that is has grown lopsided / horizontally right across the garden, so much so that it is obstructing the garden path. I would like to keep the tree but would like some advice on how to prune it to encourage it to grow upwards rather than outwards.

Answer

It is possible to do what you are asking but it will need to be done in stages as to reduce the stress to the tree. I think the best thing for you to do is to follow RHS advice on this matter so I have included a link below on Apple and pear tree renovation: http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles1101/fruit_tree.asp

Question

I have what seems to be three different type of spotted laurels one is dark green in colour the other light green with what seems like the beginning of possibly some flowers the other is the same colour light green the first two were planted around a month ago and around 2 3 ft the last one was planted last summer and has hardly grown at all I did read for these to produce flowers you need a male and female like a holly and I thought they were very quick growers I have seen some has high has well over 20foot round where I live they seem to get bigger every year mine are planted in full sun in a good quality compost any information on this plant would be welcomed thank you. I bought a shrub called a beauty berry in October last year it had a abundance of purple berries which have gradually dropped of I believe it is suppose to have pink flowers in summer but at moment I have just a bare shrub is this normal

Answer

Regarding your laurels; do you know which variety you have? I have detailed three of the more common ones below and as you can see their sizes and flowering requirements do vary. If you can find the actual varieties I can do more research for you.

• Aucuba Japonica Crotonifolia. Evergreen, bushy, dense shrub with stout, green shoots. Large glossy, dark green leaves are heavily mottled yellow. Grows in sun or shade and well drained soil. Height 1.7m Spread 1.7m. Male.
• Aucuba Japonica Rozannie. Very handsome shrub which has large, toothed and leathery green leaves. This all green form is self pollinating and produces large red fruits in winter. Grows in any situation and any soil to about 1m. Male.
• Aucuba Japonica Variegata. Evergreen, bushy, dense shrub grown for its yellow spotted leathery leaves. Height 7 ft. Spread 7 ft. requires any reasonable soil. Will thrive in sun or shade. Plant with crotonifolia for berries. Can be kept as a colourful hedge or as a specimen plant. Female. As regards your Beauty Berry (Callicarpa bodinieri var. giraldii Profusion). The lovely purple berries will gradually drop off, or get eaten by the birds, before the end of the winter which is normal. It will remain bare until it begins to produce its leaves then small pink flowers around July.

Question

I have got some branches on our pear tree where the buds are not opening – should I cut them back or just leave it?

Answer

If the tree is the right size and shape for you then I’d leave it. However, you may want to read the RHS article below for information on how to prune your tree should you wish. http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles1101/fruit_tree.asp

Question

Now that the buds are out on the roses does this mean that I can cut them with an outward facing slope away from a bud at a height of 6 inches from the base now? Can I cut the honeysuckle back to 6 inches as well now?

Answer

I would wait until all risk of frost has passed because if you get a hard frost it can cause the tips of shrubs to die back. This die-back can be trimmed off but if the shrub is at its lowest height you will have nothing left to trim away. You should be OK to do it at the middle of April. You will still get a good display so don’t worry, you’ll be surprised how quickly they will grow from May onwards. You method sounds good but don’t forget to give them a little feed of fertilizer. You can buy one specifically for roses or you can use blood, fish and bone meal which can be used on all your plants. A mulch of well rotted manure around the base will also be good to keep down weeds and help improve the structure of the soil.

Question

Leaves on the hyacinth are going yellow. Can I cut them to the base; remove bulbs from the indoor pot and plant in the garden now? Any thoughts as to where best and how i.e. depth etc to plant them?

Answer

Yes you can cut them back and plant them out in the garden. Here’s a link to my Bulbs page which should help you when planting but the general rule is three times its own depth in a sunny position. http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/bulbs.htm

Question

I have recently bought some of the pretty flowering heathers you see at this time of year but know little about them I did hear that they need to be planted I the special compost you use for azaleas and rhododendrons also how long do they flower for I am told the ones you see in the garden centres are all forced has I believe they do not flower until early summer do I prune them when they finish flowering and when should I feed them thank you for any advice you can provide

Answer

There are two types of heather so I’ll give you the details for both. The first type is the “Erica” variety. These heathers do prefer acid soil but they will tolerate slightly alkaline soil, either way it needs to be well-drained and placed in a sunny spot. If you don’t know how acidic your soil is then it would be best to plant into pots using Ericaceous compost although it’s not essential. This type of heather flowers January to March and should be trimmed after flowering with shears or secateurs to remove the dead flowers and encourage bushy growth. The second type is “Calluna”. They like full sun and well-drained, humus-rich, acid soil or ericaceous compost. They flower July to November. In March or April cut back the flowered shoots to within 2.5cm (1in) of the old growth.

Question

My husband would like to know are than any certain types of methods used to make top soil more firm? He’s clearing out some land and the soil is too soft to hold weight.

Answer

I’m not entirely certain I understand exactly what the problem is but I think it is one of the following. The top soil may be too “soft” meaning it is not compacted enough. If this is the case then you should be able to carefully tread down the surface by slowly walking around until it is firm. However, the problem may be that the soil is too sandy, meaning that it has no substance and keeps falling apart. The added problem here is that it will also be very poor making it difficult to grow anything. If this is the case then you need to improve the structure by adding lots and lots of well rotted organic matter such as horse or cow manure. This can be bought in bulk or, if you live near a farm or stables, you may get it for free if you agree to collect it. If you have to go this route then it will take some time for the soil to change and become more substantial, perhaps as long as a year. To avoid weeds taking hold while you’re waiting you could grow some green manure which will subsequently be incorporated into the soil, again adding goodness. Here is an article which might help. http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/soil.htm#Green_manures0

Questions for February 2008

Question

I have a Xylosteum (fly honeysuckle) growing in my garden. Please could you tell me if the red berries growing in the winter are poisonous? I have several young children and am concerned for their welfare.

Answer

The berries on the fly honeysuckle are mildly poisonous so I wouldn’t > take a chance near small children.

Question

We have recently purchased a property with a Bore, the Bore water has a high Iron content, and although my newly planted garden isn’t affected by this my neighbour has reported that he has lost his plants due to the Iron levels in the water. So my question is will the Iron affect the growth of my plants? (The Iron level isn’t extreme; it is still suitable for drinking)

Answer

I have tried to do some research on this but can’t find an awful lot on the subject. The usual problem in gardens is lack of iron as a lot of plants are unable to absorb the iron the soil. I would think that as long as you look after your soil and plant good quality specimens your plants should be OK. Keep the site well drained and add plenty of well rotted organic matter each year to improve the structure. Sorry I couldn’t offer more help.

Question

I live on a estate where when I come out of my flat I come on to a dark outside landing that gets little natural light I was wondering if there was any type of trees shrub I and my fellow neighbours could put in to pots that would brighten the place up I would like some thing that would grow to around 6ft I did thing about conifers but I believe like a lot of trees and plants they need a fair amount of sunshine and /or natural light if you can think of anything I would be grateful preferably something that would be evaluable in your average garden centres

Answer

Firstly you could try ferns. These come in various sizes, not as tall as 6ft but some can reach 3ft and have a good texture. Alternatively, why not put an obelisk into a container and grow ivy up it, twining it in and out as it grows to make it bush out. There are some lovely brightly coloured ivy such as Sulphur Heart. For a long term investment you could try a climbing hydrangea. I have one on the back wall of my house. It faces north and never gets any sun, it won’t grow as big as it says in the description and you can prune it each year if needed and it still flowers well. Here’s a link so you can see what it looks like. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/climbers/other-climbers/hydrangea-anomala-subsp.-petiolaris/itemno.PL00003342/. For a short-term show you could try a few hanging baskets or containers filled with Busy Lizzies. They won’t flower as long or as bright as when they are in sunlight but you should get a few weeks out of them and they will tolerate being dried out if they don’t get watered for a while. In all cases you will need to ensure the soil is of good quality and add some well rotted organic matter to help retain moisture. Either re-pot or top-up the containers each year to keep them fresh.

Add Height to your Garden

Tall, upright plants and structures add an extra element of interest to any garden. Trees and large shrubs are an excellent way of gaining height but they do take up a lot of room and take many years to reach their full size.

A quick and easy solution is to use obelisks, arches, pergolas and trellises to grow climbing and rambling plants.

Obelisks come in many shapes and sizes and are available in lots of different materials so you are bound to find one that suits your garden’s theme. Place it in the middle of low growing shrubs and perennials for dramatic affect. Many obelisks are classy enough to stand on their own, but better still, plant a showy, summer flowering clematis at the base and allow it to scramble up for a blast of colour in the middle of the border. Better still plant a spring flowering and a summer flowering clematis together for even more impact.

Pergolas should be erected to draw you through the garden to a feature at the end; a specimen plant, an ornament or other structure. Grow climbing roses, grape vines, wisteria or laburnum to produce a colourful, scented walkway. Soften the base of the structure by planting low growing perennials such as hardy geraniums; this will help make the structure look part of the garden and not just an add-on.

Arches are a great way to add height without taking up too much space. Place them where there is a change to the garden to have it act like a gateway; like at the start or end of a patch or between the lawn and the patio. To help it blend into the rest of the garden plant clematis or roses at the base and train them over the arch.

Trellises can be attached to fencing and the walls of garden buildings or houses. They are great for transforming otherwise dull structures or, used free standing; they do a great job of blocking an eye sore. Any climbing plant will be at home on a trellis just ensure that the shoots are tied in securely.

For great decorative garden accessories and zinc garden planters visit Grand Illusions.

For ideas for climbing plants, take a look at Crocus.co.uk.

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