10% Off Turf, Soil and Lawn Products

Rolawn Direct are currently offering 10% off all orders across their website, just enter code RDFEB12 at the checkout.

Rolawn Direct are specialist in Lawn Care Products and sell very good quality Topsoil, Compost and Turf.

The offer runs until 14th February 2012.

The Vegetable Garden in February

Jobs to do in the vegetable garden or allotment in February. Click the links to find out more about gardening tasks and specific vegetables.

Seeds to sow indoors in a heated greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill:

• Greenhouse Cucumbers
• Leeks
• Onions
• Greenhouse Tomatoes

Seeds to sow outdoors where they are to grow. Check that the soil is workable and not too cold. A couple of weeks before sowing your seed cover the patch of soil with horticultural fleece or polythene sheets to help warm it up then just before sowing prepare the soil:

• Peas
• Broad Beans
• Radishes
• Turnip

Plants to plant outside in the ground. Before planting seedlings prepare the soil:

• Shallots
• Rhubarb

Other tasks to do in the vegetable garden:

• Dig over the soil if it is not too wet or cold
• Cover establishd Rhubarb to force an early crop
• Chit Seed Potatoes
• Check for wind damage

 

How to Grow Brussels Sprouts

Brussels Sprouts  Go to Brussels Sprouts Troubles
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Do not grow Brussels Sprouts in the same plot more than once every three years and ideally it will have grown peas or beans previously. Dig the soil deeply in winter and leave several months before planting to ensure firm soil. Lime to aim for a pH of 6.5-7.5. Plant firmly. Sow in a seedbed and transplant to a permanent bed. Transplant carefully and avoid drying out. By growing both early and late varieties you can be picking Sprouts from September to March. Earth up the stems in Autumn and stake tall varieties. Harvest with the lower sprouts are walnut sized and tightly closed. Work up the stem.
Early March under glass or mid March outdoors until mid April	Early May to end of June	Ensure the ground is firm with adequate humus. Choose a sunny, sheltered spot.	Sow thinly and 6 inches between rows. Transplant when seedlings are 4-6ins and leave 24ins between plants.	Mid September to end March.	Will keep in a food bag in the fridge for up to three days. For freezing, blanch for 3 mins and use within 12 months	Cut off the stalk and remove outer leaves. Cut a cross in the base and wash in cold water. Add 1ins water to a pan and bring to the boil. Add sprouts slowly so the water does not stop boiling. Cover and cook for 7-8 mins.

 

 

Brussels Sprouts Troubles
Trouble	Symptoms	Treatment	Prevention
Boron Deficiency	Young leaves are distorted and heads of cauliflowers are small and bitter. Brown patches on the curds.	Spray at first signs of deficiency	Apply borax before planting
Blown Brussels Sprouts	Open, leafy sprouts instead of tight button ones.	Remove blown sprouts	Ensure plenty of organic matter is added to the soil prior to planting and that the ground is well compacted. Ensure site is sunny and well watered.
Black Rot	Yellowing leaves with black veins. Will kill seedlings and mature plants are stunted.	None	Rotate crops
Cutworm	Large grey or brown caterpillars attack young plants at night and stems are severed below ground. Leaves and roots may also be eaten.	Hoe the soil around the plant during June and July and destroy caterpillars as they are found	Rake Chlorophos into the soil prior to planting
Chafer Grubs	Wilting leaves. Fat, curved grubs may be seen in the soil. The plants will die.	None	Destroy grubs as they are found during autumn digging and rake Chlorophos into the soil prior to planting
Club Root	Discoloured leaves wilt in the sun. Plants will die or grow slowly.	None	Lime well and ensure the soil is well drained. Dip transplant roots in thiophanate-methyl before planting. Rotate crops
Diamond-Back Moth	Green caterpillars fed on the underside of leaves.	Spray at first sign of attack	None
Downy Mildew	Yellowing of upper surface with white furry fungus growth beneath.	Spray at first stage of disease	Sow seeds in sterilised compost. Do not over-crowd and don’t raise seedlings where the disease has been before.
Flea Beetle	Lots of small, round holes in leaves. Seedlings can be killed.	Spray at the first sign of attack. Water plants well in dry weather.	Treating seeds with an insecticidal seed dressing will prevent early attacks
Frost	Can kill plants if it reaches the roots. Affected leaves are easily attacked by fungi or bacteria.	Burn damaged leaves	Ensure plants are firmed well when transplanting
Gall Weevil	Swellings form close to ground level. Crops are rarely affected.	Not really needed.	Apply a soil-pest killer
Leaf Spot (Ring Spot)	Brown rings on mature leaves.	Burn diseased leaves and spray	Do not plant brassicas in the same spot next season
Mealy Aphid	Waxy, greyish “greenflies” appear underneath leaves. Leaves curl and turn yellow.	Spray at the first sign of attack	Burn affected plants
Magnesium Deficiency	Yellowing between the veins of older leaves.	Apply a tonic around the plant and a fertiliser containing magnesium	Incorporate compost into the soil during Autumn digging
Manganese Deficiency	Similar in look to magnesium deficiency but tends to start on young leaves.	Apply a tonic around the plant	Incorporate compost into the soil during Autumn digging
Pigeons	Soft portion of leaves are eaten.	None	Netting is the only viable form of prevention
Slugs and Snails	Leaves and stems eaten. Young plants particularly at risk.	Use slug pellets or add nematodes to the soil	Keep the site clear of rubbish
White Blister (White Rust)	White spots on leaves. Growth stunted and plants might die.	Burn diseased leaves and thin out plants to avoid over-crowding	Do not grow brassicas the following year
Wire Stem	Base of stems is black. Seedlings die.	None	Avoid growing seedlings in cold and wet soil. Avoid over-crowding
Whiptail	Thin, straplike leaves.  Molybdenum deficiency.	Spray repeatedly	Ensure soil is adequately limed

 

The Vegetable Garden in January

Jobs to do in the vegetable garden or allotment in January. Click the links to find out more about gardening tasks and specific vegetables.

Seeds to sow indoors in a heated greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill:

• Leeks
• Onions
• Greenhouse Tomatoes

Seeds to sow outdoors where they are to grow. Check that the soil is workable and not too cold. A couple of weeks before sowing your seed cover the patch of soil with horticultural fleece or polythene sheets to help warm it up then just before sowing prepare the soil:

• Radishes

Plants to plant outside in the ground. Before planting seedlings prepare the soil:

• Rhubarb

Other tasks to do in the vegetable garden:

• Dig over the soil if it is not too wet or cold
• Cover establishd Rhubarb to force an early crop

 

How to Grow Tomatoes

Greenhouse Tomatoes Click here for Outdoor Tomatoes Click here for Tomato Troubles
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Tomato plants grown in a greenhouse will produce fruits from the end of June until October. However, they require constant care and daily watering. Sow two seeds in a 3ins peat pot and remove the weaker one once they form a pair of true leaves. Plant into grow bags or pots when 6-8ins high and the first flowers begin to open. Support the main stem and remove side shoots. Feed with tomato food every time you water. Ensure adequate ventilation and shade during very hot weather. Harvest the fruits when they are ripe and well coloured.
In a heated greenhouse: late December to mid January. In a cold greenhouse: Late February to mid March.	In a heated greenhouse: late February to mid March. In a cold greenhouse: Late April to mid May.	If grown in the borders of a greenhouse prepare the soil in winter and add a small amount of compost/manure. Grow Bags can be used but must be kept well watered. If using pots, fill with soil less potting compost.	Plant 18ins apart	Late May to mid October	Will keep fresh in a plastic bag in the fridge for up to one week. If freezing: skin and core then simmer for 5mins. Sieve, cool and pack in a rigid container before freezing.	Most tomatoes are eaten raw but they can be grilled, stuffed or roasted

 

Outdoor Tomatoes
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Tomatoes grown outdoors require some protection. Ensure you buy a variety recommended for growing outdoors. Prepare the ground well and remove the growing point of cordon varieties. Sow two seeds in a 3ins peat pot and remove the weaker one once they form a pair of true leaves or buy seedlings of 8ins tall. Plant into grow bags or the ground when 6-8ins high and the first flowers begin to open. Support the main stem and remove side shoots. Feed with tomato food every time you water. Harvest the fruits when they are ripe and well coloured.
Late March to mid April	Mid May under glass to early June	Prepare the ground well and add compost and a general fertiliser. Choose a sunny, sheltered spot. Can be grown in posts or grow bags.	Plant 18ins apart with 30ins between rows	Mid July to early October	Will keep fresh in a plastic bag in the fridge for up to one week. If freezing: skin and core then simmer for 5mins. Sieve, cool and pack in a rigid container before freezing.	Most tomatoes are eaten raw but they can be grilled, stuffed or roasted

 

 

Tomato Troubles
Trouble	Symptoms	Treatment	Prevention
Blossom End Rot	Leathery dark-coloured patch at bottom of fruit	None	Don’t allow soil or compost to dry out
Blossom Drop	Flowers wither and break off	None	Water regularly and mist the flowers in the morning
Blotchy Ripening	Parts of the fruit fail to ripen	None	Control the heat in greenhouses and feed and water regularly
Buckeye Rot	Brown concentric rings around a grey spot on unripe fruit	None	Tie up lower trusses to avoid splashing. Apply a mulch.
Dry Set	Fruitlets stop growing	None	Mist plants twice a day with water
Eelworm	Stunted growth. Discoloured and wilted leaves. Tiny white cysts on roots.	None	Don’t grow tomatoes or potatoes in infested soil for at least six years.
Foot Rot	Stem bases are brown. Tends to affect seedlings.	None	Use sterilised soil or compost to raise seedlings. Don’t over water.
Greenback	The area around the stalk remains green and hard	None	Provide shade to greenhouses to control the heat. Feed regularly.
Ghost Spot	Grey mould spores fall on fruit leaving ‘water spots’	None	Provide good ventilation. Control Grey Mould and do not splash fruit when watering
Greenhouse Whitefly	Tiny moths on underside of leaves. Leaves are pale and curled. Sticky fruit with black mould.	Spray at first sign of attack	None
Grey Mould	Grey mould appears on damaged stems and can spread	Cut out diseased area	Ensure adequate ventilation, avoid over crowding and remove decaying leaves and fruit.
Hormone Damage	Fern-like and twisted leaves. Twisted stems and stalks.	None	Ensure lawn weed killer does not come in contact with plants
Hollow Fruit	Hollow fruit	None	Avoid too much heat or cold. Water regularly. Ensure adequate potash in the soil.
Leaf Roll	Rolled leaves is not a bad sign in young leaves as long as they are dark green. In older leaves it may be due to side variations in day and night temperatures. Provided no pests are present then no action is required.
Magnesium Deficiency	Yellowing between veins of leaves. Starts on lower leaves and moves up.	Use a foliar spray containing magnesium	None
Potato Blight	Bark brown blotches on leaves. Brown, shrunken areas on fruit. May develop during storage.	None	Tomatoes grown under glass are not always infected but to prevent a likely attack or for outdoor tomatoes use a protective spray of mancozeb (Dithane) or copper (Murphy Traditional Copper or Vitax Bordeaux Mixture). Try to apply these before the symptoms are seen but if this isn’t possible use as soon as possible. They will not totally prevent infection, but often slow it sufficiently to save the crop.
Root Rot	Roots are brown and corky. Plants wilt in hot weather.	Mulch to encourage new roots	Use new soil or fresh compost
Sun Scald	Pale brown, papery-skinned depression on side of fruit facing greenhouse glass	None	Paint glass and damp down well. Do not mist plants at mid-day.
Split Fruit	Fruits split	None	Keep roots moist
Stem Rot	Stem bases are brown. Tends to affect mature plants.	None	Sterilise greenhouse and equipment
Tomato Leaf Mould	Purple brown mould patches on underside of leaves, yellow patches on upper side. Lower leaves attacked first.	Remove some of the lower leaves and spray at first sign of attack.	Ventilate greenhouse at night
Tomato Moth	Large, green or brown caterpillars tunnel into fruit and stems.	None	Spray when small caterpillars holes appear in leaves
Virus	Mottled and curled leaves. Dark vertical streaks on the stems. Stunted growth. Mottled and bronzed fruits.	None	Buy virus-free plants. Spray to control greenfly
Verticillium Wilt	Leaves wilt in hot weather. Lower leaves turn yellow. Brown streaks through the stem tissue	Mulch around stem to encourage new roots.	Don’t grow tomatoes in infected soil

 

Grow Your Own Vegetables

Growing your own vegetables, salads and herbs can be extremely satisfying.

Not only do they taste much better than shop bought vegetables they are also cheaper and tend to provide us with more vitamins, minerals and nutrients.

It is also so much more convenient to pop out to your garden than to trek down to the shops for a couple of fresh tomatoes and a lettuce.

So, there’s no excuse not to grow your own, you don’t need a large garden or an allotment, just a few pots on the patio will do if space is limited.

This article will help you to Grow Your Own with just five simple tasks:

• How to Prepare the Soil
• How to Sow Seed Outdoors
• How to Sow Seed Indoors
• How to practice Crop Rotation
• How to Grow your Own in Containers

Preparing the Soil

Digging breaks up compacted layers in the soil helping to improve drainage and aeration it also gives you the opportunity to improve the quality and structure of the soil. The important thing is to do it at the right time; the soil mustn’t be not too wet or too dry.

The best way to improve your garden soil is to increase the amount of humus it contains. This can be done by either adding well-rotted organic matter or by growing special green manures. Plants can also be given a boost by applying fertilisers.

All soils can be improved by adding well-rotted organic matter; but the effects depend on the type of soil you have. On clay soil it aids drainage and aeration, on sandy soil if helps retain moisture and boosts fertility and on silty soil it helps prevent compaction. Organic matter is best applied either in autumn or spring.

Find out more about the different soil types and all about drainage.

Sowing Seed Outdoors

Seeds will only germinate when temperatures are high enough to allow growth so make sure you time the sowing of your seeds in relation to the weather where you live.

To give your vegetables the best start in life prepare your seed bed in early spring but only if the soil is not too wet.

Breakdown any clods of soil and add a general-purpose fertiliser to the surface and work into the top few inches of the soil.

Use a rake to work over the surface until it is smooth and level with a crumbly surface.

• Mark out a row with a length of string
• Draw out a drill with the edge of a trowel to the depth recommended on the seed packet
• Water the trench before sowing
• Sprinkle the seed along the bottom of the trench and cover gently with the soil removed from the trench
• Keep well watered
• To keep cats and pigeons away from your precious seeds lay some twigs or canes over the surface to cover with netting
• When the seedlings produce their second set of leaves gently thin-out by removing all but the strongest, leaving enough room between them as recommended on the seed packet

Sowing Seed Indoors Sowing seeds indoors means you can get a head start on the season but it does mean you will have to plant the young plants outside when the weather warms up.

• Fill a seed tray or plant pot with a seed and cutting compost
• Firm lightly and water until moist, not wet
• Scatter seeds thinly on the surface and cover lightly with compost
• Cover the container with a sheet of glass and cover that with newspaper to keep out the light
• As soon as seedlings appear remove the paper and glass and move close to the light
• Keep the compost moist
• As soon as the first set of true leaves appear prick out into small pots filled with potting compost
• Once the seedlings have settled begin hardening off by increasing the ventilation or moving to a cold frame. Once they are accustomed, move them outdoors during the day until ready to plant out
• Plant out to the recommended spacing

If you do not have a greenhouse or cold frame you can grow seeds on a windowsill. After sowing the seed place a plastic bag loosely over the pot and secure with an elastic band. Keep in a warm, shady spot. Once the seedlings begin to appear remove the bag and place the pot on a windowsill out of direct sunlight. Keep the compost moist.

 Crop Rotation

A common mistake that a lot of people make is to continue to grow the same crops in the same spot year after year. If this continues it will encourage diseases, specific to that crop, to increase each year and the nutrients used by the crop will become depleted very quickly.

To avoid this and to encourage large, healthy crops you should rotate the crops grown in each bed/container each year. For example, in one bed grow root crops this year followed by brassicas the following year and other crops, such as beans or tomatoes, the year after then back to root crops. In another bed/container start with brassicas and rotate through the other crops in the coming years. Below you can find out more about Crop Rotation and which vegetables to grow together.

Crop	Roots	Brassicas	Others
Examples	Parsnip Carrot Beetroot Jerusalem Artichoke Potato Chicory	Cauliflower Kale Radish Broccoli Brussels Sprout Cabbage	Tomato Sweetcorn Pea Spinach Celery Cucumber
Nutrient	Do not add manure	Well-rotted manure or compost	Well-rotted manure or compost
Lime	Do not lime	Only lime if soil is alkaline	Only lime if soil is acid
Feed	General-purpose fertiliser two weeks prior to sowing or planting	General-purpose fertiliser two weeks prior to sowing or planting	General-purpose fertiliser two weeks prior to sowing or planting

Growing in Containers

Most vegetables grow perfectly well in containers; any container will do including tins, pots, thick black plastic bags and even wellington boots! The most important things to remember are:

• Use a good quality compost
• Add a good helping of manure to improve the structure and help retain moisture
• Remember to put holes into the base and/or sides of the container
• Add crocks to the base of the container to improve drainage
• Water well at planting/sowing time and continue to water throughout the season
• Feed regularly
• It is best to replace the compost each year but if you can’t afford to do this then mix the old compost with fresh compost and add fresh manure. Remember to rotate your crops each year.

Organic Vegetables

More and more people are choosing to grow organically, if this is you then take a look at Suttons range of organic seeds. This collection was trialled and tested at Sutton’s trial grounds and, as well as having organic origins, they are free from pesticides and other chemicals. All Sutton’s Organic Vegetable Seeds carry the Organic Farmers & Growers Seal of Approval. To help you plan your gardening year, take a look at our Vegetable Plot Diary. Keep track of when to sow seeds indoors and outdoors, when to plant, when to harvest and when to carry out other vegetable gardening tasks. You can also download a pdf version and make your own notes.  

Sow Green Manures

Now is the time to sow green manures on your vegetable plot or allotment.

At this time of year most people will be harvesting the last of their vegetable crops and will be left with large areas of bare soil.

To help stop weeds germinating and to improve the soil for next season, sow green manures. In the Spring you just dig the resulting crop into the soil, leave it for a couple of weeks and begin planting.

Click the link for our full article on Green Manures.

Buy Green Manure seeds from Suttons:

• Green Manure Mix Seeds – adds nutrients and moisture to soil. Price: £2.99
• Organic Green Manure Red Clover Seeds – helps improve fertility. Price: £2.45
• Organic Green Manure Phacelia Balo Seeds – dense, quick-growing foliage. Price: £2.45

Gardening Articles

Do you love your garden but not sure of the best way to prune your clematis, propagate plants for next year, make the best of your lawn or produce good quality compost?

If so then take a look at our gardening articles which we are sure will be useful to you. These articles are aimed at beginners and are written in the most simplistic way possible but if you require personal advice you can complete our Advice Form and we will email our response as quickly as possible.

• Aquatic Gardening, Ponds and Aquatic Plants
• Building Projects in the Garden
• Butterflies
• Composting in the Garden and the Kitchen
• Cut Flowers; Growing and Care
• Flowers and Plants
• Fruit and Vegetables
• Garden Birds and Wildlife
• Garden Maintenance Tasks
• Gardening for Children
• Green Gardening
• Greenhouse Gardening
• Lawn Care and Maintenance
• Outdoor Living
• Pests and Diseases
• Poisonous Plants
• Pruning
• Safety in the Garden
• Soil and Soil Improvement
• Types of Plants
• Weeds

Weedkiller

Question:

I recently got involved has a volunteer in creating a community garden for elderly people the area we have was very overgrown we have now hacked it all to the ground with strimmers etc. but I have a idea that the weeds etc. will soon shoot up again.

I would like some advice on a good economical weedkiller has its a large area somebody mentioned something called weed matting is this easy to lay and expensive or inexpensive and above all effective and would that enable a lawn to be laid on top.

Answer:

It looks like you’ve taken on a massive job here but I’m sure it will be worth while in the end.

There are a few ways to remove the weeds. The first, and the hardest, is to dig over the whole area and remove the weeds by hand. Don’t be tempted to use a rotavator because this will chop up and spread perennial weed roots far and wide, making the weed problem much worse.

Leave the land for a few weeks during which time any annual weed seeds left will germinate and these can be removed by hand. Don’t add them to the compost heap as perennial weed seeds will remain in the soil.

If you don’t fancy digging, wait until new weed shoots appear and apply weedkiller containing glyphosate. I’ve done a bit of research and found the following weedkillers which sound good. You should be able to get them at your local garden centre or DIY store:

• Weedol 2 – An economical weedkiller that can be used all round the garden except on lawns, unless you want to kill them. Weedol doesn’t harm the soil so seeding or planting can be carried out immediately after treatment. Young green suckers of roses, lilac and plums can also be killed without harming the rootstock. Effective at any time of the year, Weedol is rainproof in 10 minutes. Contains diquat. Keep away from children and pets. 12 sachet carton treats 204m.
• Roundup Weedkiller – will completely kill all weeds and roots. Children and pets don’t need to be excluded from treated areas as it is biodegradable and starts to break down as soon as it touches the soil. It contains the chemical glyphosate and includes measuring cap for easy measuring. Do not use on lawns or other wanted plants as it will kill everything plant it touches. 280ml treats 280m.

Here are a few general rules to bear in mind when using weedkiller:

• Read the manufacturer’s instructions to be sure you are using the right weedkiller for the job
• Keep weedkiller off plants that you want to keep
• Dissolve/dilute the weedkiller according to instructions on the packaging and apply weeds using a fine rose (sprinkler head) on a watering can which you only use for weedkiller
• Don’t apply on a windy day because weedkillers can drift onto other plants
• The most effective time to apply weedkillers is when weeds are leafy and growing actively, mid-spring to early summer is ideal
• Keep weedkillers in a safe place, out of reach from children and pets. When empty, dispose of them carefully.

Not all weeds will die so repeat applications may be needed.

The final method to control weeds is to cover the ground with sheets of black plastic or old carpet. Emerging weed shoots won’t get any light and will starve and die. This may take a couple of years to be 100 per cent effective. You will be able to lay your lawn over the area once all the weeds have died. You may need to weed and feed the lawn after the first year to ensure new weeds don’t take hold.

For areas which are not going to be lawned you will need to ensure the weeds don’t come back. To help keep them to a minimum add a mulch of bark, compost, manure, gravel or slate. In addition you can also use a weed-proof membrane which is made of woven polypropylene. Lay this on top of the soil and add the mulch on top of that. Plant through the membrane by cutting crosses in the material. Again, the membrane will be available at your local garden centre or DIY store.

A New Lawn from Turf

Turf  is pre-grown grass, which is cut from the ground ready for you to use as an instant lawn.

There are two types of turf available, Cultivated and Meadow. Cultivated turf if the most expensive but it gives a good quality lawn. Meadow turf is cheaper but it may have weeds or bare patches so will require more initial maintenance.

When you order your turf make sure you arrange for its arrival on a day when you are available to lay it. It is important to lay your turf as soon as possible after it arrives to ensure success.

If you have had to leave it sitting for a while, give it a good watering before you begin to lay it.

You can lay turf from early autumn to late spring, as long as the ground not too dry, frozen solid, or boggy.

Laying turf is fast but it is at least 10 times more expensive than producing a lawn from seed.

Equipment Required

• A sharp spade
• A garden fork
• A garden rake
• Special lawn fertiliser
• The turf
• A wooden plank
• A sharp kitchen knife

The Process

• Dig over or fork the ground the soil removing stones and roots as you go
• Rake the soil gently until level
• Sprinkle on fertilizer at the recommended rate and rake it in
• Tread over the whole area, sinking your weight well down into your heels to consolidate the soft patches
• Rake again to cover the footprints
• Without walking on the prepared ground, lay a line of turf in a straight row along one end of the area, butting their short sides up together
• Pat down the turf with the rake head so that each turf makes contact with the soil beneath
• Place your plank on the turf row you’ve just laid and walk along it as you lay the next row, staggering the joints between the turf like joints in brickwork
• Repeat, patting down each new row with the rake
• When you’ve covered the whole area, trim the outer edge of the turfed area with a sharp kitchen knife, so the lawn edge follows the shape of your beds
• Keep the area well watered for several days until the turf has knitted together
• Continue watering during dry spells

When the grass begins to grow cut the lawn with the blades set high so that only the tips are removed. The blades can be lowered as the lawn becomes more established.

If you laid your lawn in autumn then apply a quick-acting fertiliser in April or May. You can also add a top dressing to help smooth out any bumps and hollows.

p>

Find out how to produce a lawn from seed or click here to read other Lawn Care articles.

What can I do to look after my lawn during dry periods?

The UK doesn’t often have long periods of hot weather but when it does, and when hose pipe bans are iminent, our lawns can soon begin looking dry or even dead.

However, all is not lost as during periods of no or low rainfall the grass will stop growing so the first thing you should do it stop mowing and don’t fertilise or use weedkiller. At the first sign of rain the grass will begin to grow again and will soon green up.

Leave it for a couple of weeks before cutting and when you do, lift the cutting height by about half an inch, then continue your normal cutting regime.

If your lawn is very dry and looking stressed it may be as well to prick over the surface of the soil to help any available water penetrate down to the roots.

Looking after your lawn throughout the year will help in times of drought. Take a look at our Lawn Guides for more information or visit Rolawn the turf and lawn experts.

Links: Plant Nurseries

Useful Links: Plant Nurseries

A Plantsmans Collection Botanica is a traditional English nursery in over 10 acres of beautiful Suffolk countryside. We offer advice on British Native and Natural Landscape Planting and all our plants are of English provenance. Hedging, fruit trees and other choice and heritage edibles. Botanical mature stock and Ornamental plants, shrubs, climbers, herbaceous, perennials, grasses, ferns, bamboos and conifers. Our plants are grown in soil as nature intended or pot grown in our own natural compost (100% peat free).

Our Plant of the Month – Euphorbia

Euphorbias are a vast genus of fully hardy perennials with about 2000 varieties.

The like full sun or partial shade in light, well-drained soil. They are fast growing and flower during April and May with insignificant flowers. It is the bracts which give the colour, ranging from limey yellow to bright orange.

Euphorbia require little care, just cut back the faded flower stems in the autumn. Take care when working with euphorbia as the milky sap is poisonous and can cause skin irritations.

The Euphorbia in our garden is Euphorbia polychroma whose dark green, lance-shaped leaves are topped with a froth of bright, acid yellow spring flowers that form a distinctive star shape. In autumn the foliage turns a lovely shade of bronze.

Below is a selection of Euphorbias on sale at Crocus.co.uk, click on the pictures for more information:

Euphorbia griffithii ‘Fireglow’	Euphorbia × martini	Euphorbia amygdaloides ‘Purpurea’	Euphorbia characias Silver Swan (‘Wilcott’)

Photinia fraseri dropping it’s leaves

Question:

I recently moved to the Netherlands. In my new yard I found a Photinia fraseri Camilvy. Over the winter it’s leaves where light green with a few brownish spots. The winter was very cold. I don’t think anybody cut the photinia back last year. Now spring has arrived and new red leaves are growing from the top. The old green leaves turned into beautiful red ones still with the dark spots on and start to fall off one after the other. Is that normal?

Answer:

Photinia fraseri is a very hardy plant and can survive quite low temperatures; the fact that you have had some new growth is a good sign but I think we need to establish if the plant is still alive.

Using your thumb nail gently scrape away a little of the outer surface of some of the stems; if the stem is green underneath then the plant is alive, if it is brown underneath then the stem is dead. Scrape away the surface of several stems as some may be dead and some alive.

If the shrub is alive it may just need rejuvenating; here’s how:

• Wait until the weather warms up and all risk of snow and frost has passed
• Cut all the stems down to around 6ins
• Sprinkle some bone meal on the soil around the plant and water in well
• Add a good 2-3ins of mulch to the surface of the soil; this will help keep in moisture and keep weeds away
• Keep the shrub well watered whilst it is re-establishing itself
• The new growth on Photinia is red so as soon as you see this you know your plant will be OK
• The leaves will turn green as they get older but should stay on the plant throughout the year
• Cutting back each spring or summer will keep the shrub under control and will help it produce the lovely red foliage
• Don’t cut back during the autumn as this new growth is susceptible to frost damage

If all the stems are dead you may still be able to revive the shrub by cutting it back to a few inches and following the procedure above. If new growth doesn’t appear after a couple of weeks then you are as well digging it up and buying a new one.

If you only have a few dead stems remove them from the base and cut back the remaining stems and, again, follow the procedure above.

Here’s a link to an article on Photinia at the RHS which may help you in the future.

Removing Turf

Question:

I want to remove a small area of grass and and cover with slate can you advise me on how to do this the area is about 7 foot in a circular shape.

Answer:

The easiest way to do this is by cutting straight through the turf with a sharp spade to a depth of about 2 inches making individual pieces about the size of your spade. Once done slip the spade under the edge of the turf with a sharp motion. This should bring each small piece of turf up in one go without having to go back over the same area.

If you have an edging spade (see left) then this makes the cutting easier, then use a normal garden spade for lifting.

If you have a spare area in the garden you can make really good loam for use on your planting beds. Lay the first few pieces of turf grass-down in your chosen area. Lay the next few pieces soil-down on top of the first layer then lay the third layer grass-down on top of the second. Build it up until all the turf has been used. Leave it for a few months, keeping it damp, and you should end up with a pile of lovely compost!

Preparing your lawn for spring

Mowing is the most important maintenance operation for any lawn. Before the first cut in spring, it is important to check the lawn and the mower. Debris, such as twigs and small branches, may have accumulated over the winter. These should be removed prior to making the first cut. Check the mower is in good order with sharp blades.

The timing of the first cut tends to fall in March, however this could be early or late March and should be judged by the lawn itself, not just the time of year. If it actively growing, it is time to start mowing.The frequency of mowing should also be judged by the rates of growth. In March, you may get away with once every two weeks but in April the required frequency is more likely to be weekly.

It is very important in early spring that you set the mowing height quite high taking no more that one quarter of the length of the plant off at a time otherwise the lawn will become stressed. A little and often approach is better in spring. As the grass grows faster as we move further into spring, increase the mowing frequency and gradually reduce the height of cut to give the desired finish. When you lower the cutting height, we recommend mowing the lawn at least three times before changing the height again.

Applying a Spring Lawn Food to encourage adequate, but not excessive growth is one of the more important tasks for spring. Healthy growth in spring will aid recovery from the winter and help the lawn remain in peak condition for the summer.

Apply Rolawn GroRight Spring Lawn Food in early spring, once the grass has started to grow and needs regular cutting, and then again six weeks later. The timing may vary in different parts of the country and from one year to the next.

The ideal conditions for applying a feed are when the soil is moist and the grass leaves are dry.

For further spring lawn care advice click here.

How do I take cuttings from Peony and Rhododendron?

Question:

My late father has a Peony Rose and a Rhododendron and I want to take cuttings from these to give to other family members before the house is sold. Can you advise.

Answer:

It is extremely difficult to take cuttings of Peony and are best propagating by division. Carefully clear away the soil around a portion of root and cut pieces away with some root and at least one growth bud for each plant needed. Place into a pot with good quality compost and keep well watered until established.

Rhododendrons are also difficult to root successfully so to give it as much help as possible remove a thin slice of bark near the base of the stem when you take the cutting. Dip the wounded end in hormone rooting compound before potting in a good quality potting compost.

Cuttings should really be taken in the Spring or Autumn so if you can leave it a few weeks before taking yours it would be better. If you have to do it soon then ensure the cuttings get some sort of protection from cold, winds and frost.

Camellia sinensis for Making Tea

Camellia sinensis is similar to the more common ornamental varieties but with the benefit of being able to produce tea from the leaves and shoots.

The flowers are white with yellow stamens and are fragrant. The leaves are evergreen; dark green and shiny. If left unpruned it can grow to 10ft or more but they are easily pruned if a smaller shrub is required. Indeed, if you want to produce tea from the leaves it will need pruning every couple of years to keep it to 3-5ft high. See below.

In the UK, unless you live in a sheltered, warm climate, you are best to plant it up in a pot and keep it in a cool greenhouse over winter.

Propagation and Care

The most common way of propagating Camellia sinensis is by seed but cuttings also work well. Sow seeds about an inch deep in a good quality acidic seed compost with added grit or sand. Keep the compost damp and warm.

Pot on when the seedlings are large enough to handle, increasing the pot size and the months and years go on.

When buying a young shrub choose one without a central leader in order to produce a bush not a tree. Ensure that there are shoots growing out from the bottom of the plant to ensure the correct shape.

If planting outside place about 3ft apart in a sunny, sheltered position in an acidic, well drained soil. If they are grown in pots place the pots somewhere where they can get some protection from strong wind and raise the pots off the ground to allow water to drain away. Do not allow them to dry out but ensure that they don’t get waterlogged.

Fertilise regularly during the growing season with a suitable Camellia feed and prune to obtain the size and shape you require.

With the correct care and conditions camellia sinensis can live for 50-100 years.

Growing Camellia sinensis for Tea Making

There are three types of tea which can be made from Camellia sinensis; green tea, black tea and Oolong tea. Each type is produced from differently aged leaves and from using different production methods:

• The young, emerging buds, also known as Tips or Flowery Pekoe, are used for the best quality teas
• The next set of leaves are known as Orange Pekoe
• The oldest and largest leaves nearest the stem are Souchong

When your plants reach 2ft tall cut back to a few inches high to encourage new shoots and increased yield. Do this every 2-3 years to keep the vigour in the plants.

Depending on when the leaves are harvested the strength of the tea will differ; the picking of new shoots in Spring is known as First Flush. The Second Flush is the late Spring / early Summer harvesting and produces a tea with more body. The final harvest takes place in Autumn and is stronger still.

When harvesting the leaves should be gently pinched and twisted to avoid damage.

Tea Production

The production of the tea itself goes through several stages:

• Withering: the leaves/shoots are laid out on trays and left until the leaves loose about half of their moisture and become limp
• Rolling: the leaves are rolled to expose the plant enzymes to oxygen and begin oxidisation; the amount of time allowed for the enzymes to react with oxygen determines the type of tea produced
• Oxidisation: also known as fermentation is a highly complex procedure. The length of time given to oxidisation ranges from 45 minutes to many hours determining the colour and aroma of the final product:
  • For Green Tea this process is missed out and the leaves are not allowed to oxidise. It is a green or yellow colour with a “grassy” flavour
  • Oolong tea is partially oxidised; the exact time depends on personal skill and knowledge
  • Black Tea is fully oxidised and produces a full-bodied brew
  • Firing: firing sends a stream of hot air onto the leaves stopping the oxidisation process.
  • Sorting: once dried the tea is sorted into different grades determined by size. The smallest particles are sold as Dust working up in size through Fannings and Broken Leaf to Whole Leaf

Mushrooms in the Lawn

Do you have mushrooms in your lawn?

The mushrooms you find in your lawn are actually helping to decay dead and rotting matter beneath the surface of the lawn with most of the activity taking place under the turf.

Underneath many lawns there are dead or dying tree roots, fallen leaves or thatch as they break down they are taken down by earthworms allowing the relase of nutrients into the soil. This activity is essential for the garden but can have unsightly side affects such as mushrooms growing on the surface of the lawn.

A few mushrooms will not to any harm to the grass but they can easily spread by the dispersal of their spores, or seeds. These spores are easily blown around the garden making the problem worse. However, if the mushrooms are growing under shrubs or in corners of the garden it is best to leave them to do their beneficial work.

As the mushrooms are not doing any harm to the lawn you can leave them if you want but if they are spoiling the look of your lawn then just simply brush them away with a brush as soon as they appear before they have a change to spread their spores.

The important thing to remember is that these are not edible mushrooms and can be poisonous if eaten.

Lawn mushrooms normally appear in damp conditions usually in the Autumn and to stop them taking hold ensure that the lawn is regularly scarified to remove any dead thatch or leaves.

Take a look at our Lawn Care pages for more information on how to look after your lawn.

Types of Plants – Ornamental Grasses

Ornamental Grasses thrive in open positions in full sun in the herbaceous border, as a specimen plant or in containers.

Care: Soil should hold moisture but be well drained and not too fertile. Do not deadhead as grasses can often look pretty during winter months and will add extra interest. Cut down to ground level in the spring to give room for the new growth. Propagate by division or seed.

Ornamental Grasses in our Garden: Below is a selection of grasses we have in our garden; click the image to Buy your Own

Festuca glauca – Elijah Blue

Stipa Gigantea – Golden Oats

Deschampsia caespitosa – Northern Lights

Next Page »