How to Grow Tomatoes

Greenhouse Tomatoes Click here for Outdoor Tomatoes Click here for Tomato Troubles
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Tomato plants grown in a greenhouse will produce fruits from the end of June until October. However, they require constant care and daily watering. Sow two seeds in a 3ins peat pot and remove the weaker one once they form a pair of true leaves. Plant into grow bags or pots when 6-8ins high and the first flowers begin to open. Support the main stem and remove side shoots. Feed with tomato food every time you water. Ensure adequate ventilation and shade during very hot weather. Harvest the fruits when they are ripe and well coloured.
In a heated greenhouse: late December to mid January. In a cold greenhouse: Late February to mid March.	In a heated greenhouse: late February to mid March. In a cold greenhouse: Late April to mid May.	If grown in the borders of a greenhouse prepare the soil in winter and add a small amount of compost/manure. Grow Bags can be used but must be kept well watered. If using pots, fill with soil less potting compost.	Plant 18ins apart	Late May to mid October	Will keep fresh in a plastic bag in the fridge for up to one week. If freezing: skin and core then simmer for 5mins. Sieve, cool and pack in a rigid container before freezing.	Most tomatoes are eaten raw but they can be grilled, stuffed or roasted

 

Outdoor Tomatoes
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Tomatoes grown outdoors require some protection. Ensure you buy a variety recommended for growing outdoors. Prepare the ground well and remove the growing point of cordon varieties. Sow two seeds in a 3ins peat pot and remove the weaker one once they form a pair of true leaves or buy seedlings of 8ins tall. Plant into grow bags or the ground when 6-8ins high and the first flowers begin to open. Support the main stem and remove side shoots. Feed with tomato food every time you water. Harvest the fruits when they are ripe and well coloured.
Late March to mid April	Mid May under glass to early June	Prepare the ground well and add compost and a general fertiliser. Choose a sunny, sheltered spot. Can be grown in posts or grow bags.	Plant 18ins apart with 30ins between rows	Mid July to early October	Will keep fresh in a plastic bag in the fridge for up to one week. If freezing: skin and core then simmer for 5mins. Sieve, cool and pack in a rigid container before freezing.	Most tomatoes are eaten raw but they can be grilled, stuffed or roasted

 

 

Tomato Troubles
Trouble	Symptoms	Treatment	Prevention
Blossom End Rot	Leathery dark-coloured patch at bottom of fruit	None	Don’t allow soil or compost to dry out
Blossom Drop	Flowers wither and break off	None	Water regularly and mist the flowers in the morning
Blotchy Ripening	Parts of the fruit fail to ripen	None	Control the heat in greenhouses and feed and water regularly
Buckeye Rot	Brown concentric rings around a grey spot on unripe fruit	None	Tie up lower trusses to avoid splashing. Apply a mulch.
Dry Set	Fruitlets stop growing	None	Mist plants twice a day with water
Eelworm	Stunted growth. Discoloured and wilted leaves. Tiny white cysts on roots.	None	Don’t grow tomatoes or potatoes in infested soil for at least six years.
Foot Rot	Stem bases are brown. Tends to affect seedlings.	None	Use sterilised soil or compost to raise seedlings. Don’t over water.
Greenback	The area around the stalk remains green and hard	None	Provide shade to greenhouses to control the heat. Feed regularly.
Ghost Spot	Grey mould spores fall on fruit leaving ‘water spots’	None	Provide good ventilation. Control Grey Mould and do not splash fruit when watering
Greenhouse Whitefly	Tiny moths on underside of leaves. Leaves are pale and curled. Sticky fruit with black mould.	Spray at first sign of attack	None
Grey Mould	Grey mould appears on damaged stems and can spread	Cut out diseased area	Ensure adequate ventilation, avoid over crowding and remove decaying leaves and fruit.
Hormone Damage	Fern-like and twisted leaves. Twisted stems and stalks.	None	Ensure lawn weed killer does not come in contact with plants
Hollow Fruit	Hollow fruit	None	Avoid too much heat or cold. Water regularly. Ensure adequate potash in the soil.
Leaf Roll	Rolled leaves is not a bad sign in young leaves as long as they are dark green. In older leaves it may be due to side variations in day and night temperatures. Provided no pests are present then no action is required.
Magnesium Deficiency	Yellowing between veins of leaves. Starts on lower leaves and moves up.	Use a foliar spray containing magnesium	None
Potato Blight	Bark brown blotches on leaves. Brown, shrunken areas on fruit. May develop during storage.	None	Tomatoes grown under glass are not always infected but to prevent a likely attack or for outdoor tomatoes use a protective spray of mancozeb (Dithane) or copper (Murphy Traditional Copper or Vitax Bordeaux Mixture). Try to apply these before the symptoms are seen but if this isn’t possible use as soon as possible. They will not totally prevent infection, but often slow it sufficiently to save the crop.
Root Rot	Roots are brown and corky. Plants wilt in hot weather.	Mulch to encourage new roots	Use new soil or fresh compost
Sun Scald	Pale brown, papery-skinned depression on side of fruit facing greenhouse glass	None	Paint glass and damp down well. Do not mist plants at mid-day.
Split Fruit	Fruits split	None	Keep roots moist
Stem Rot	Stem bases are brown. Tends to affect mature plants.	None	Sterilise greenhouse and equipment
Tomato Leaf Mould	Purple brown mould patches on underside of leaves, yellow patches on upper side. Lower leaves attacked first.	Remove some of the lower leaves and spray at first sign of attack.	Ventilate greenhouse at night
Tomato Moth	Large, green or brown caterpillars tunnel into fruit and stems.	None	Spray when small caterpillars holes appear in leaves
Virus	Mottled and curled leaves. Dark vertical streaks on the stems. Stunted growth. Mottled and bronzed fruits.	None	Buy virus-free plants. Spray to control greenfly
Verticillium Wilt	Leaves wilt in hot weather. Lower leaves turn yellow. Brown streaks through the stem tissue	Mulch around stem to encourage new roots.	Don’t grow tomatoes in infected soil

 

Allotment Update: Potatoes in

Allotment Update.

It was lovely at the allotment this afternoon, sunny and warm but 30 degrees in the greenhouse which was not very comfortable. I can’t believe I’m complaining about the heat!

I planted the early potatoes Red Duke of York and Lady Christl; the Pink Fir Apple are still chitting very, very slowly.

I also sowed some seeds; although some should really be in a propogator so I’ve got my figures crossed:

• Brussels Sprout ‘Revenge’
• Beetroot ‘Wodan’
• Sweet Pepper ‘Gypsy’
• Chili ‘Superchili’
• Tomato ‘Sweet Olive’
• Tomato ‘Red Alert’
• Cauliflower Igloo

The Rhubarb ‘Stockbridge Arrow’ went in on Saturday along with some Chives which we all love.

A good start to the season I think but still lots to do.

Flowers for Young Children

Question:

I am planning to make miniature gardens with young children and would like to use petunias ans Impatiens (bizzie-lizzie). I just wanted to make sure that neither of these plants is poisonous.

Answer:

Petunias and Impatiens are not on the poisonous plants list. However, if eaten most ornamental plants will cause sickness in children and some adults. You will need to keep an eye on the children when they are in the garden or consider planting edible plants. Here’s a selection for you to consider:

• Nasturtiums – colourful and quick growing
• Alliums – taste of onions with purple or white flowers
• Rosemary – grows quite big but can be pruned down. Smells great. The flavour is strong so the kids won’t like it anyway!
• Mint – lots of different types with slightly different minty smells. They can take over so it’s best kept in a pot
• Violas and Pansies – cheap and easy to grow
• Parsley – annual only but easy to grow in a sunny spot
• Try planting strawberries or small tomatoes in hanging baskets

Tomatoes and Olives

Question:
How do I nurture a tumbling tomatoe plant that we have hanging in a basket? How do I ensure a good crop? There are very small green baby tomatoes at present. Does it need repotting as it looks a bit big now for the basket

I bought the most gorgeous olive tree a couple of months ago. Its about 2.5 feet tall. I repotted it in John Innes No 3 mixed with grit. Is it right to keep it very moist initially? What feed, if any, should I use? How do I know its healthy?

Answer:
Your tumbling tomato plant will need lots of watering to stop the fruits splitting and it will need feeding every week with a tomato feed to ensure a good healthy crop. They really need to be in a very sunny spot for the fruit to ripen successfully. I have never been able to grow tomatoes outside as my garden is north facing and doesn’t get much sun. I wouldn’t re-pot it; it should be fine if you keep feeding and watering.

Olives are not entirely hardy in the UK so will need some protection during cold and frosty periods. You were right to plant in a well-drained mix of compost and grit. Although they can cope with dry periods, olives in containers need regular watering and feeding to produce fruit. During the growing season keep the compost moist and feed every month. In winter, you can reduce watering, but don’t let the compost dry out completely. As long as the leaves are undamaged and there is sign of new growth you can assume the plant is healthy. If the plant is kept in a very sunny location you may even get fruit after a couple of years.

Make your own Hanging Basket in 8 Easy Steps

Hanging baskets are a wonderful way of adding colour to your garden, particularly if you have a paved garden or yard.

Hanging baskets also add height and make the most of the smallest of spaces.

Annual flowers are ideal for most baskets but perennials such as ivy, hebe or grasses add another dimension. Most garden centres sell Hanging Basket Selections which takes the guesswork out of choosing the ideal plants for your basket. Pack your basket with lots of plants to make the best display.

Why not try growing tomatoes in a hanging basket? Use a tumbing variety such as Tomato Tumbler or Tomato Tumbling Yellow; follow the guidelines for a flowering basket.

Follow the following easy steps to making your own hanging basket:

1. Choose your basket – there are many different sized and shaped baskets available; just have a browse around your local garden centre.
2. Choose your liner – again, there are lots of liners available in garden centres but you can also use a sheet of thick plastic with a few holes to allow for drainage.
3. Line the basket – place the basket in the top of a large pot or bucket to keep it level. Fit your liner and press into the shape of the basket cutting off any excess. If you want to plant around the sides of the basket, cut some holes in the liner where you want to plant.
4. Fill the basket – mix a slow-release fertiliser and water-retaining granules into a multi-purpose compost and fill the basket up to the planting holes in the sides.
5. Add the side plants – carefully guide each plant into the sides of the basket, pushing gently from the outside. It works best if these plants are tumbling varieties such as trailing petunias, lobelia or fuchsia. Fill the basket with more compost.
6. Add the top plants – Plant more tumbling plants around the edge of the basket, set off from the plants in the sides. Add an upright plant such as peranium or a small conifer, into the centre of the compost and firm in well.
7. Finish your basket – water the basket thoroughly and let it settle before hanging in your desired spot.
8. Look after your basket – keep the basket well watered and dead-head regularly to keep the flowers coming.

In the autumn empty the basket and compost the annual plants, the perennials can be used again next year if looked after during the winter. For a winter/early spring display replace the compost and add plants such as hellebores, polyanthus and winter flowering pansies.

Greenhouse Gardening

Owning a greenhouse not only gives you somewhere warm to escape to during the cold winter days it also expands the range of plants you are able to grow. As well as being able to grow more tender plants, starting off hardy vegetables in the greenhouse will result in an earlier harvest; planting some outside too means that you could have vegetables throughout the summer and autumn. The trick to successful greenhouse gardening is to keep the temperature low during summer. You can do this by covering the glass with liquid shading to provide shade, open the vents and door to ensure good ventilate and to get the air circulating and finally, water regularly.