Update

I’m sorry I haven’t been updating the site much lately but Christmas always seems to through out one’s routine.

We managed to get quite a number of brussells sprouts for Christmas actually pulling up a stalk on Christmas Eve for my brother to take home with him. Hope he liked them. I have to admit I was a bit disappointed with the lack of taste which can be caused by loose soil or incorrect planting. Of course, it could have been the variety but I’m not sure of the variety we used as it was a pack of generic seedlings from the garden centre. Next year I’ll grow an F1 Hybrid which has the RHS Award of Garden Merit; perhaps Revenge. Thompson & Morgan have 40 seeds for £2.99. I’ll sow them in April and plant out in firm soil in June giving them support or I’ll earth them up to stop them falling over as they did this year.

My own garden is looking a bit sorry for itself as it’s been covered in four inches of snow for over a week!

I’ve been feeding the birds throughout this cold spell and have looked forward to watching one particular Robin and a Blackbird who always seem to appear to watch me putting out the food. Very cute!

I managed to insulate the new shed before the worst of the weather set in, we just need to put down some flooring and paint the outside and we’ll have a sturdy, cozy little shed to help make our allotment experience a little easier. Next job for the allotment is to build more raised beds. We want to erect a six foot high frame around at least two of the beds which will be netted to stop the birds getting in but allow us to get in easily to look after the crops.

Are you looking for a shed? If so Garden Buildings Direct have their January Sale on until 2pm on Monday 3rd January. They are offering some fantastic prices on selected wooden sheds, garden storage, log cabins, playhouses and summerhouses.

4 Easy Steps to a Great Lawn

Not everyone has the time to spend on a full year-round lawn maintenance routine, if this applies to you then here are a few easy jobs you can carry out which will make a difference to your lawn in a short space of time.

1)  Mowing

The easiest way to make it look as if you are on top of your lawn maintenance is to mow your lawn regularly. A lawn really needs to be cut every time it grows about 1cm longer than you want it. If you leave a lawn to grow too long and then cut it short, it will look unhappy for a while, because you will have cut into the thick, brown or yellow stems at the base of the plants, instead of through lush green leaf blades. Regular mowing produces a greener, denser, harder-wearing lawn.

Start mowing in spring, as soon as the grass is dry enough, with the blades set high just to slice the top off. Lower the blades as the lawn gets used to being cut but if the weather turns dry in summer, raise the blades again to reduce stress to the grass. As the weather turns colder in autumn, raise the blades back up to their spring level, but don’t give up cutting the grass for the winter as it will keep growing unless it’s really cold.

It’s up to you whether you prefer to use a grass-box or not but lawns tend to look better if you do.

2)  Edging

After cutting the grass, trim around the edges with edging shears. However, before you can use edging shears, you need a lawn edge – a shallow, neat-edged gully all around your beds and borders with a vertical drop. Hold the blade of the shears against this flat surface as you cut.

3)  Top Dressing

Top dressing your lawn will enhance its appearance, stimulate new grass grown, level an uneven lawn, improve drainage and wear and tear and reduce thatch. Top dressing can be done at any time but is probably best done in Spring or Autumn when the ground isn’t too dry.

4)  Feeding

An essential part of your regular lawn maintenance is feeding. All lawns need feeding if they are to look good. The most important time to feed is in late spring, as that’s the start of the growing season, but you can keep feeding every six weeks until autumn to keep grass looking lush.

Spring and summer grass feeds are high in nitrogen and so produce a rich green lawn but during autumn use a formula that is low in nitrogen but high in phosphate and potash to toughen up the roots ready for winter.

Alternatively use an organic lawn fertilizer once a month which releases nutrients over a longer period of time than other lawn foods. If you want to improve your lawn without making it grow any faster (so it doesn’t need so much mowing), use an autumn lawn feed during summer instead.

Buy Lawn Care Products from B&Q

To find out more take a look at our Lawn Care articles.

Lawn Care Calendar

January

• Remove fallen leaves
• Don’t walk on frozen turf
• Have the mower over­hauled and to make sure that the other lawn tools are ready for use in the spring
• Laying turf is possible during fine spells

February

• In mild districts worm casts may appear, brush them away when dry
• Do not be tempted to mow your lawn before March
• Finish turfing this month
• Begin soil preparation at the end of the month if you plan to sow seed

March

• As soon as the grass starts to grow and the weather is fine, rake the lawn to remove leaves and surface rubbish. Do not rake too vigorously at this stage or you will damage the grass.
• If there have been heavy frosts during the winter, settle the turf by light rolling
• Choose a dry day for the first cut and merely remove the top of the grass
• Two cuts are sufficient this month
• Apply a moss killer if necessary
• Neaten lawn edges with a half-moon edging iron
• Repair broken edges

Read our article to find out more about looking after your lawn in Spring

April

• Feeding and weeding can begin towards the end of the month, provided that the grass and weeds are actively growing
• Mow often enough to stop the grass growing away, but do not cut too low
• Dig out patches of coarse grass – fill the holes with sifted soil and then re-seed or re-turf

May

• Continue mowing, increase the frequency as necessary and lower the height of cut
• You should be mowing once a week
• This is the best month for weed killing
• Water if the month is particularly dry and before obvious signs of distress

June

• Mow twice a week when the soil is moist. If there is a long dry spell, raise the height of the cut and do not use the grass box.
• This is the time for summer feeding and weeding
• Trim the edges regularly
• Be repared to water if there is a dry spell

Read our article to find out more about looking after your lawn in Summer

July

• Mow regularly at the summer height
• Water if dry weather is prolonged
• Rake occasionally

August

• The same general treatment as for July
• August is the last month of the year for weed killing and for feeding with a nitrogen-rich ferti­lizer
• Seed sowing can begin in late August

Read our article to find out more about looking after your lawn in Autumn

September

• Increasing the interval between mowings and the raise the height of cut
• Worms may become active at this time of year
• Scarify, then spike any compacted areas and finally top dress
• Treat diseased patches
• Tackle moles this month
• Sowing seed

October

• Carry out the last cut or two, raising the cutter height.
• Trim lawn edges
• Apply Autumn Feed
• Carry out lawn repairs
• Complete the scarify-spike-top dress routine
• Brush up fallen leaves
• Dig out tufts of coarse grass, then re-turf or re-seed the bare patches
• Lay turf

Read our article to find out more about looking after your lawn in Winter

November

• Carry out final cut if the if the weather isn’t frosty or wet
• All equipment should now be cleaned and oiled for winter storage
• Keep the lawn clear of fallen leaves and other debris

December

• Brush away leaves
• Keep off the lawn when it is wet or frozen
• Turfing is possible during fine spells

Urban gardening for kids – Denise Van Outen shows you how to make your children green fingered

Spring has sprung and the weather is finally good enough to get outside in the garden. But even if you don’t have a large outdoor space, there are ways for everyone in the family to become green fingered.

Whether you use a window box, a pot or a flower bed getting the children involved means that not only will they be entertained, but they will also have something they own and can be proud of.

If you choose to grow fruit or vegetables they will also learn where food comes from. Start with something easy like tomatoes or herbs and if you would prefer to grow flowers, sunflowers are an easy option. Your children can also measure their growth, providing unlimited enjoyment throughout the summer months. Just make sure that you and your children water daily, and pinch some of the leaves to encourage new buds.

In the following video Denise Van Outen and some very green helpers show you how to get started along with tips for successful planting.

http://www.linkto.tv/iframe/show/uuid/Fhar3Q36Xu0

For more information visit www.npower.com/climatecops

If your child’s school is in need of a green makeover then check out the npower Climate Cops Green Fingers competition.  The competition gives urban city schools who teach 4-7 year olds the chance to win a ‘Greener Learning Space’ for their school worth £5,000, as well as a set of 6 gardening tool kits, aprons and watering cans to help pupils enjoy gardening.

Headteachers should visit www.npower.com/climatecops and follow the link to enter the competition.

How do I prepare the soil to grow Sweet Peas

Question:

What is the soil preparation required prior to planting spring grown sweet peas to ensure maximum summer flowers.

Answer:

Sweet Peas like a well cultivated soil so dig the planting area well adding some well-rotted manure to the soil. If you have a particularly heavy soil add some grit to aid drainage, if your soil is particularly sandy add more manure. Plant the seedlings 8-12ins apart and protect from slugs and snails. To get the most of the flowers plant in an open sunny position and pick the flowers regularly to make the plant produce more.

Here in the North West, as you know, we have had very low night time temperatures and even frost so it may be wise to wait a week or so to ensure that today’s weather continues.

Ensure that you harden off the seedlings in a cold frame before planting in their final position.

To find out more, visit our How to Grow Fragrant Sweet Peas article.

Photinia fraseri dropping it’s leaves

Question:

I recently moved to the Netherlands. In my new yard I found a Photinia fraseri Camilvy. Over the winter it’s leaves where light green with a few brownish spots. The winter was very cold. I don’t think anybody cut the photinia back last year. Now spring has arrived and new red leaves are growing from the top. The old green leaves turned into beautiful red ones still with the dark spots on and start to fall off one after the other. Is that normal?

Answer:

Photinia fraseri is a very hardy plant and can survive quite low temperatures; the fact that you have had some new growth is a good sign but I think we need to establish if the plant is still alive.

Using your thumb nail gently scrape away a little of the outer surface of some of the stems; if the stem is green underneath then the plant is alive, if it is brown underneath then the stem is dead. Scrape away the surface of several stems as some may be dead and some alive.

If the shrub is alive it may just need rejuvenating; here’s how:

• Wait until the weather warms up and all risk of snow and frost has passed
• Cut all the stems down to around 6ins
• Sprinkle some bone meal on the soil around the plant and water in well
• Add a good 2-3ins of mulch to the surface of the soil; this will help keep in moisture and keep weeds away
• Keep the shrub well watered whilst it is re-establishing itself
• The new growth on Photinia is red so as soon as you see this you know your plant will be OK
• The leaves will turn green as they get older but should stay on the plant throughout the year
• Cutting back each spring or summer will keep the shrub under control and will help it produce the lovely red foliage
• Don’t cut back during the autumn as this new growth is susceptible to frost damage

If all the stems are dead you may still be able to revive the shrub by cutting it back to a few inches and following the procedure above. If new growth doesn’t appear after a couple of weeks then you are as well digging it up and buying a new one.

If you only have a few dead stems remove them from the base and cut back the remaining stems and, again, follow the procedure above.

Here’s a link to an article on Photinia at the RHS which may help you in the future.

Lavender dentata

Question:

In February I bought a lavender dentata tree which claimed on the label to be hardy to the UK I found out some time later it was not and bought the tree in and planted it in a pot I have put it out during the day has the weather has warmed up but on inspecting the same tree at my garden centre yesterday I think mine is dying the spikes are all drooping downwards and its spikes are brittle the one I saw in my garden centre seem to have the spikes pointing upright and the spikes are soft what I cant understand is when I bought it and on subsequent visits to my garden centre the trees were all outdoors for 24hoursso I unsure where I have gone wrong do you think it can be saved and what steps can I take to resurrect it any help appreciated

Answer:

I’m not sure how your garden centre managed to keep these lavenders outdoors all winter as they are not hardy in the UK. If all the spikes are brittle then I’m afraid it is probably dead. However, if you do have any soft green growth left you can try cutting back to the green parts, keep it indoors for another couple of months and see if it comes back. Don’t cut into the old, woody parts of the plant as it will not survive. Hope this helps and your plant survives.

Plant of the Month for September – Japanese Anemone

Our plant of the month for September is Japanese Anemone.

Japanese Anemone are beautiful plants, are very easy to grow and flower their heads off from August through to the frosts. During September they are at their best when there are few other plants around. The Gardening Register has two varieties in the garden Anemone ‘September Charm’ and Anemone ‘Honorine Jobert’. Honorine Jobert has been in for nearly ten years now and it never ceases to amaze me every year. September Charm was planted last autumn so this is it’s first true flowering season. The plants need to bulk up a bit before they’ll be as showy as Honorine. Take a look at the plants in our garden.

They are happy in full sun or partial shade and prefer moist, fertile soil. They are fully hardy and flower between July and September or even to the frosts if you’re lucky.

To care for your Japanese Anemones:

• Cut back the stalks after the flowers have faded
• Tidy up old dead leaves in March
• Apply a generous 5-7cm (2-3in) mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant in spring
• Avoid moving the plant since it resents disturbance
• Where necessary lift and divide congested clumps in early spring

BUY NOW

Click here to see the whole range of Japanese Anemone from Crocus.co.uk

RSPB Gift Membership

If you’re looking for a gift for someone with a love for wildlife and birds, why not give a nature experience that lasts all year round and includes some amazing benefits?

RSPB Membership offers FREE entry to over 100 nature reserves across the country and a FREE quarterly magazine that’s packed with amazing photos of birds and wildlife plus news and views on nature and the environment.

What’s more, you can also choose a FREE joining gift The RSPB Nature Guide book is packed with seasonal, fun-filled ideas and activities to help the whole family get the most out of nature, both indoors and out. Perfect for families looking to entertain the kids during their summer holidays – whatever the weather!!

Questions for March 2008

Question

I bought a Grevillea plant today the guy at the garden centre just said it grows to about 3 feet and flowers until June I have since found there are many types mine has pink and black flowers on pine like branches what is the general rule of where to plant type of soil etc any tips welcomed thank you

Answer

It seems to be quite tender and prefers a light, sandy soil. Plant it out in a sunny, sheltered spot and perhaps protect it when the weather is severe. You shouldn’t need to prune it unless you want to keep it to a certain size or shape, if you do wish to prune it do it once flowering has finished.

Question

I want to replace my Acer in the garden. Is it ok to plant a new one in the same place as the one I am now digging out?

Answer

As long as the Acer you are replacing is healthy then I can see no reason why planting another would cause problems. Ensure you remove all the roots of the old tree and dig a hole twice the size of the root ball of the new tree. Add lots of well rotted compost to the soil when back-filling. Water if it doesn’t rain but ensure it doesn’t get waterlogged.

Question

I have a wisteria tree which is well established (over 25 years); it is situated in my front garden and has been trained to grow over an archway and along the side of my garage. We have invested in a larger vehicle and as a result need to widen our driveway area which impinges on where the wisteria trunk is sited. As we will be digging up this area to lay a new driveway and paving area, rather than lose the wisteria, we wondered whether once the roots are exposed whether it would be possible to re-site the trunk a few metres away and re-bed in the new paving without causing damage to the tree.

Answer

I am not confident that you will be able to easily re-site your wisteria.  As a rule a tree’s roots spread the same distance underground as their branches do above ground so I would doubt that you would be able to remove all the roots without damaging them and therefore risking the tree. Having said that it sounds as if you have to remove the tree anyway so it may be worth the risk. If you decide to go ahead you should dig a hole in the new location before you begin removing the tree. Make sure the hole is wide enough and deep enough to contain all the roots and add lots of well rotted compost to give it as much help as possible. You may need to detach some branches from the support wires prior to moving. Once you are ready, carefully expose as much root as you can and only cut off roots if absolutely necessary. The most important roots are the smaller fibrous roots which take up the goodness in the soil, the bigger roots are there to hold the tree in place and seek out water further below the surface. Before laying the new paving give the tree lots of water each day for as long as you can to help it establish. If it does happen to die off you could always use it as support for another climber such as a clematis or honeysuckle.

Question

I bought a Cistus snow white yesterday and planted it by the instructions on the plant card however when I looked on the Internet it says not to use organic compost not to mulch and not to feed I used multi purpose compost give it a feed with miracle grow all of which the plant card suggested will it harm it or should I dig it up.

Answer

Cistus plants are originally from the dry, rocky soils of the Mediterranean, which means that they like poor, sandy soils so do not need fertile soil or fertilisers. I must admit that when I planted my first Cistus I also used compost and feed and it did OK. You may find it possibly won’t do as well as had you planted it in poor soil but as long as you don’t add any more mulch or feed then it will be OK in future years. However, if you have only just planted it, you should be able to dig it up quite easily if you prefer to replant. If you do just dig a hole and pop it in! The good news is that this plant copes with fairly extreme droughts so does not need much watering and loves strong sunlight. Also, this is one of the few Cistus plants that respond well to occasional pruning of its stems.

Questions for September 2007

Question:

Could you let me know how to prune Iceland Poppies?

Answer:

Iceland Poppies are Biennials which means that they flower the year after they are sown and then die. Therefore, they do not require pruning. Once they are past their best pull them up. They often seed themselves so you may get flowers year after year.

Question:

I have a strawberry barrel.  Can I pot on the runners which appear to have small roots and do I leave them attached to the main plant until established?

Answer:

Yes you can pot on the strawberry runners as long as they have rooted. Just detach from the mother plant and put in small pots with a good quality potting compost. Give them a good watering to get them going. They should be OK outside in a sheltered spot but if you have a cold greenhouse that would be good too.

Question:

I know this is probably a stupid question but I am a beginner gardener I was wondering whether I could plant a Christmas tree in the garden that I have bought from a garden shop and will it still grow many thanks sorry for the silly question

Answer:

Good afternoon, thank you for your email. It is not a silly question really as it does depend on what type of Xmas tree you have. Although the majority of Christmas trees are sold with a cut trunk but some are sold in pots with their roots intact. Although they tend to be more expensive, they do last a lot longer and have the added advantage of being able to be planted out in the garden. Follow these guidelines for the best chance of success:

• If it has been kept indoors it will need to get used to the cold weather before planting it out
• When you are ready to plant it out stand it in a bucket of water, still in its pot, until it’s thoroughly wet It will grow very big so choose its final position carefully
• Dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot and the same depth as the pot
• Add some organic matter into the bottom of the hole e.g. well rotted manure or good quality compost If you’re planting in the spring sprinkle in some general fertilizer too
• Remove the plant from its pot
• If it is pot-bound (the roots are tightly packed in the pot) tease out a few of the biggest roots
• Stand the plant in the hole with its best side facing the direction from which you’ll normally view it
• Check that the top of the rootball is level with the surrounding soil, and that the plant is standing upright
• Mix more organic matter with the excavated soil and fill in around the rootball
• Firm gently with your foot
• Water thoroughly
• Spread an layer of mulch
• Keep well watered for the first few weeks regardless as to whether it rains or not

Questions for August 2007

Question:

I bought a lavender tree lavandula dentata I planted about 6weeks ago it does say its hare had only the odd night of frost but don t expose to prolonged frost we have had only the odd night of frost since I bought it I have noticed today there are one or two brown spikes on it and the rest seem to be drooping I have given it a feed of miracle grow rose and shrub food I am been unduly concerned will it perk up when the weather gets warmer and is there any thing I can specifically do to help it.

Answer:

Unfortunately Lavandula dentate (French Lavender) is not hardy in the UK so should be kept indoors during the winter. You could try bringing it in now, keeping it warm for the next few weeks to see if it perks up. Don’t cut off the brown spikes just yet. If you still have some green growth by the end of April then prune it back before placing outdoors for the summer. Be careful not to prune into any old or brown woody parts of the plant as it will never re-grow from these areas.

Question:

I would like to know if I could put my magnolia in a container as I am moving house and the garden is all slabs, it is around 2 to 3 years old and around 4 foot.

Answer:

My mum has successfully grown her magnolia in a pot for years and it always looks good. I assume it is in the ground at the moment so you will have to carefully lift it ensuring you don’t damage the roots. Make sure it doesn’t dry out before placing it in as large a pot as possible. Put lots of crocks in the bottom to help drainage and add a slow release fertilizer to the soil around the plant. Each year top off the plant with new compost and / or manure to keep the soil well fed. You may find it goes into shock this year but it should be OK by next year’s flowering season. You will find that the plant won’t grow as big as it would if it was in the ground and it may not live as long either.

Question:

I currently live in West Sussex and do hope that you can give me some advice on the Meyers lemon tree that I purchased last year. You see I am new to the way of gardening here in England, as I spent most of my gardening life in the tropical area of South Africa where it never gets really cold. As I have already mentioned I purchased a lemon tree, which I put into a huge pot on my patio, but now I see that during the course of winter it has lost all its leaves and a lot of the tips of the branches have gone brown. I did not place it indoors, as I do not have the strength to be lugging it around – nor did I cover it with anything. My question is do I throw the tree away or do you think it will pick up again in spring.

Answer:

Unfortunately citrus plants will not survive outside during an English winter. However, having said that, if you have not had a hard frost and it’s in a sheltered position then you may get away with it. I wouldn’t give up on it just yet. Buy some horticultural fleece (available from garden centres or the larger DIY stores, cover it for the rest of the winter and make sure it doesn’t get too wet. If it’s survived you should see new leaves appearing when the weather warms up during April/May.

Question:

Can you please tell me any plants besides Aubrietia that you can plant in the top of a walled raised bed to hang over or to plant vertically in the wall?

Answer:

Please find below some suggestions. Most of these are alpines and do require a well drained soil. Cerastium (Snow-in-summer) – colour: white Iberis (Candytuft) – colour: white Linaria (Toadflax) – colour: various – there is an upright version of this too Saponaria (Soapwort) – colour: pink. You could also consider planting a nice coloured, small leaved ivy to trail down and plant some low growing alpines, such as Thrift to add some height. If you don’t mind a bit of work you could consider planting trailing geraniums or other colourful annuals each year.

Question:

Our neighbours have just built an extension, the side wall of which overlooks our back garden. Unfortunately, a variety of bricks have been used and they haven’t been spaced out very well with the result that the wall overlooking our back garden is unsightly and also oppressive. We would like a fast growing plant which would hide the wall. The wall goes up to 310 cm in height. Please could you advise us as to what would be the best plant to hide this wall and which would grow quickly?

Answer:

My ideal would be ivy. There are lots of different varieties giving you a wide selection of leaf sizes and colours which are evergreen. Once established it is extremely fast growing and also has the benefit of being able to climb without support and will grow in any situation. The other is the Montana range of Clematis which again is very fast growing and has the extra benefit of fragrant flowers in the spring. However you will need to erect some sort of support structure such as trellis or wires before planting. A sunny site will give the best results. Which ever plant you choose make sure you don’t plant it too close to the wall as it won’t be able to get as much water as it needs. If you go to my Plant your Garden page http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/planting.htm.  You will see an advert from Crocus. If you click the Climbers box you will be able to enter some information about the location and features required and receive a number of suggestions back.

Question:

I’ve got a question about holly trees that you might be able to answer for me…! As you know – you need male and female holly for the female plant to produce berries, but do the male and female plant need to be the same variety?? I have a silver queen (male) and a golden king (female) – will I get berries from this??

Answer:

I have double checked and you only need to have one male holly, of any variety, to pollinate several female plants of any variety. Therefore the two you have will do fine; the female plant will produce the berries, not the male. If you’d like more berries you could buy another female variety.

Question:

I am the General Manager of a psychiatric unit in London. We have recently built a secure steel balcony to provide additional outdoor space to one of our first floor wards. The construction is a ‘metal cage’ with a very raw look to it and I would appreciate it if you could give me some ideas on the types of plants we would use to brighten up the area. The balcony is south facing and I would preferably like ones that are easy to manage and stay evergreen so there is colour all year round. Have you any suggestions. The main problem is that for safety reasons we can not use climbing plants as patients could use these to climb up and fall, we can not use plants that have poisonous leaves or berries as patients could eat these and we are unable to use plants that have sharp edges as patients may use these to self harm or ones that attract bees in case of allergic reaction to possible bee stings. In addition, we would require the plants to be in pots that are too heavy for a patient to lift in case they throw them. As you can see from a non-gardeners point of view I am struggling to find the appropriate plants and your assistance and advice would be very welcome.

Answer:

I’ve come up with some ideas and attach an outline of a plan which may be of interest. My first thought was to fit a bench across the left-hand 2.4m section. This could be attached to the balcony and would allow seating for a few people. I have also left room for quite a large table and six chairs. Your idea of galvanized containers screwed into the patio seems a good idea and I’ve found a couple of sites which may be able to provide them. and http://shop.theurbangarden.co.uk/product_select.asp?prtID=49&d=planters. The alternative is to have a raised bed built into the corner which is also attached to the balcony as per my plan. You could have it built as one big “box” or if you had six separate boxes they could be tiered so that the outermost ones are lower than the top ones. This would provide more interest and allow for plants to cascade the corners of each “box”. As for plants. My initial thought is to use Herbs. These are usually soft and are, of course, edible. For added interest I thought a few grasses. I have found a few examples of my thoughts on Crocus.co.uk and have attached a link to their page so you can find out a little more about them. Fennel (especially Bronze which is a lovely colour) these grow to about 1.8m but not very wide so you could fit in quite a few. They are light and move with the wind giving a feeling of movement. I find it best to snip off the flowers to avoid them going to seed and ruining the look. Also, they will die down for the winter but this also means it doesn’t take over. To compliment the colour and movement of the Fennel I thought a few soft grasses would be nice. They tend to give great autumn colour and if left over the winter they provide structure and look nice when frosted. They will have to be cut back to allow the new growth through but it’s not a hard job. Here are a couple of examples. For an evergreen look I think Rosemary would be good. They can grown quite big so may need keeping in check but they are very hardy and don’t require much maintenance. They are usually a rich dark green with lavender/blue flowers during the summer. To compliment the rosemary how about Lavender. There are lots of varieties around but you need to have a good hardy one to see you through the winters. To break-up the front of the containers/bed I suggest planting a few “lesser” periwinkles. These come in white, lilac or purple in lots of different shades. The leaf colours also differ so you could find one you like. The “greater” periwinkles have bigger flowers and grow too big and fast for containers. Just tuck them into the corners of each “box” and let them hang down. They do spread so you may need to pull them up to avoid them taking over the whole container. Finally, I thought the little space near the entrance could do with something. Mint is a great herb but extremely invasive so it is ideal in its own container. There are lots available, such as pineapple mint and apple mint so again you should find some you like. They will die down for the winter but will come back each spring. Regardless of the containers you use you will have to ensure that there is adequate drainage in the bottom. Punch some holes in the base of the containers and lift them slightly off the floor. To help the drainage and keep the weight down fill the bottom of the containers with a good layer of polystyrene which you get in packaging. Use good quality compost and add some vermiculite which will also help keep the weight down but will also aid drainage. I would also add a slow release fertilizer and some water-retaining granules. You won’t be able to use hard mulch so I would top off the planting with a good layer of well-rotted manure. This will help retain moisture, keep weeds down and add goodness to the soil. Each autumn you should add another layer.