How to Grow Asparagus

This amazing vegetable is famously known for its gourmet taste, delicate flavour and unique texture and it is possible to grow it in your own garden.

You need to have a lot of patience with this vegetable as it takes a considerable amount of time to mature but the good news is that asparagus is a perennial vegetable which means they can stay productive for up to 20 years.

Gardening Direct have produced an easy step by step guide to help you start growing this great vegetable in your garden.

Asparagus  Click here for Asparagus Troubles
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Ferny foliage in summer but grown for its young shoots (spears) which appear in the spring. Will take two years for the first crop. Plant one year old crowns. Can be grown from seed but takes three years for cropping to begin. Plants will live for 8 to 20 years. Cut down stems in autumn. Do not remove spears during the first year. In the second year, once the spears are 4-5 ins they should be cut about 3 ins below the soil surface. Stop cutting mid June to allow the spears to develop for next year.
Mid March to end April	Mid March to end April	Soil type is not important as long as it is well drained and in a sunny, sheltered position.	Spread the crowns out over a 3ins deep mound in an 8ins deep trench about 12ins wide. Cover with 2ins soil and fill the trench gradually	Mid April to mid June	Will keep in a food bag in the fridge for up to three days but best to eat within an hour of cutting. Can be frozen.	Wash the spears and peel away the skin below the tips. Keep in a bowl of cold water until all spears are prepared. Tie into a bundle with string and trim the ends to level the bundle. Place upright in a pan of boiling, salted water. Cover and boil for 10-15 mins. Drain and serve. Alternatively steam.

Where should I plant my Asparagus?

Asparagus requires a lot of space to grow and flourish, so the ideal location would be a sunny, sheltered spot in a large garden or allotment space that is well sheltered from the wind but they can be grown in a raised bed to help provide the best conditions. Do not try to grow asparagus in pots, in clay soil or in shaded places.

When should I plant my Asparagus?

The best time to plant asparagus crowns is early April as long as the soil is not too cold or wet. Seeds should be sown during April.

How do I plant my Asparagus?

Good drainage is essential so dig over the area thoroughly during the autumn incorporating well rotted manure or garden compost. If your soil is on the acid side you may need to add some lime. Remove all weeds, weed roots and stones and leave it over the winter. In spring fork over the area and rake in a general fertiliser.

For the best results buy one year old crowns just before you are ready to plant; never let then dry out whilst you are waiting to plant them. Dig a trench approximately 30 cm wide and 20 cm in depth. Down the centre of the trench create a mound approximately 10cm high and place your Asparagus crowns along the top of the mound, making sure the plants don’t touch. Cover the crowns with 5cm of sifted soil and gradually fill in the trench as the plants grow. By autumn the trench should be level with the surrounding soil.

Keep the site weed free and provide support if needed.

How do I grow Asparagus from seed?

Growing Asparagus from seed is not the best way to raise a crop as it can take three years before harvesting can begin.

Sow seed thinly in 3cm deep drills about 30cm apart; thin seedlings to 15cm when they are about 7cm high. The strongest seedlings can be planted out in their final position the following spring.

When can I harvest Asparagus?

Harvesting Asparagus must not begin until the second year after planting; by this time the spears should have reached a height of 12cm. The ideal time to cut asparagus is during May and don’t cut after Mid June as the spears need time to develop reserves for next year.

Using a sharp, serrated kitchen knife or a special asparagus knife, cut 7cm below the soil surface. Don’t let the spears get too tall before cutting.

Asparagus Troubles
Trouble	Symptoms	Treatment	Prevention
Asparagus Beetle	Stems and leaves are eaten.	Spray with liquid Derris	None
Frost	Crop turns black and dies	None	Cover the crop with fleece if frost is expected
Rust	Reddish-brown sports appear on leaves during the summer.	Remove and burn affected shoots as soon as spots appear	None
Slugs	Spears are eaten.	Sprinkle area with slug pellets or add nematodes to your soil	Keep area clear of rubbish
Spindly Spears	Thin shoots produced instead of the usual thick spears.	None	Usually caused by cutting too long into the season. Don’t harvest after mid June.
Violet Root Rot	Roots covered with purple mould, leaves turn yellow and die.	If bad start again in a new site and don’t grow root crops in the same area. If possible isolate healthy plants.	None
Wind Rock	In exposed sites roots are loosened which can lead to rotting.	None	Provide support to stems or build windbreaks around the site

 

Jobs to do in September

Flower/Plants

• Prune rambling roses
• Cut back perennials once they have finished flowering
• Collect seed from perennials and store in a cool place
• Take cuttings of lavender
• Cut everlasting flowers and seed heads for use in indoor arrangements

Fruit/Vegetables

• Plant out rooted strawberry runners into new beds
• Sow outdoors: hardy spring onions, lettuces, salads and Chinese cabbages
• Sow parsley in pots for picking in winter
• Plant out Japanese onion sets and garlic
• Cut down raspberry canes once they have finished cropping

Greenhouse

• Pick off the lower leaves from tomatoes to allow light and air to reach the fruits
• Keep poinsettias in the dark for 14 hours a day to encourage colourful bract formation
• Close vents at night as the weather turns cooler
• Keep grow bags well watered
• Start watering indoor cyclamen to promote new growth

General

• Hoe borders to keep weeds down
• Prepare areas for sowing new lawns during showery weather
• Trim hedges and topiary into shape
• Buy spring bulbs
• Order sweet-pea seed for autumn planting

How to Grow Leeks

Leeks Leeks belong to the onion and garlic family and they are a great vegetable to grow in cooler climates. Compact, versatile and easy to grow in various soil conditions, they’re a fundamental cornerstone of any vegetable patch. Tasty and succulent to eat, leek foliage is also prized as an ornamental feature of borders, or round the edge of your allotment. Click here for Leek Troubles
Sowing Time	Planting Time	Soil	Spacing	Cutting / Lifting Time	Storage	Cooking
Leeks are the easiest member of the onion family to grow and they will withstand the hardest of winters. They tend to be pest and disease free and don’t need a very fertile soil.
Sow outdoors in spring when the soil is warm, mid March onwards. For April crop sow late varieties in June. Germination takes 14-18 days. It will take 30 weeks to maturity or 45 for late varieties.	Transplant seedlings in June when they are about 8ins high. Water well before moving, trim roots and leaves. Make a 6ins deep hole, drop in the leek and fill with water and wait for it to settle. Don’t back-fill with soil. Transplant late varieties in July.	Choose a sunny site. Any reasonable soil will do. Dig over well during the winter and add compost or well-rotted manure every other year. Level and firm the soil and add a general fertiliser a week before planting.	Set in rows 12ins apart and 6ins between plants. Keep weeds down and water well during dry weather. Draw soil up and around the stems once they are well developed. Increase the height a little at a time. Stop earthing up in October. Stop feeding late August.	Begin lifting when leeks are quite small to extend the harvesting period. Lift gently with a fork to avoid damage.	Leeks can remain in the ground throughout winter and used as needed. If required, leeks will keep in a poly bag in a fridge for up to 5 days.	To freeze: Remove the green tops, wash stems and cut into small chunks. Blanch for 3 minutes, cool, drain and dry before packing into poly bags. To cook: Wash thoroughly to remove any grit. Boil in a small amount of water for 10 minutes.

 

Click to view Gardening Direct’s range of Leeks – availability can change according to the season.

Leek Troubles
Trouble	Symptoms	Treatment	Prevention
Onion Fly	Yellow, drooping leaves. Maggots burrow into the bases and kill young plants.	None. Lift and burn affected plants.	Rake Chlorophos into soil before showing or planting. Sets are less prone than seeds.
Bolting	Premature production of flower-heads.	Cut off flower stalks and lift as usual. Do not store.	Don’t sow or plant too early in the season. Ensure soil is firmed well before sowing or planting
Stem & Bulb Eelworm	Swollen, distorted foliage. Young plants die and older plants product soft bulbs.	None. Lift and burn affected plants.	Do not grow onions, peas, beans or strawberries on land previous infected with this disease.
Saddleback	On harvesting, bulbs are split at the base. Caused by heavy rain or watering after a dry period.	None. Use affected bulbs immediately.	Keep well watered during dry spells.
Set Division	Onions from sets produce twin bulbs.	None	Plant sets in good soil and keep well watered in dry spells.
Smut	Black spots and blotches on leaves and bulbs of young plants. Twisted and thickened leaves. More likely in leeks than onions.	None. Lift and burn affected plants.	Don’t grow leeks or onions on affected ground for eight years.
Rust	Orange spots and blotches on surface of leaves. More likely in leeks than onions.	Remove and burn affected leaves.	Don’t grow leeks or onions on affected ground for one season.
White Tip	Tips of leek leaves turn white and papery in autumn.	Spray with Dithane at first signs. Lift and burn badly affected plants.	Don’t grow leeks or onions on affected ground for one season.
Bull Next (Thick Neck)	Abnormally thick necks means the bulbs will not store successfully.	None	Don’t use too much manure. Use a feed with more potash than nitrogen. Don’t sow seed too deeply.
Downy Mildew	Downy, grey mould covering leaves. Leave die back slowly and shrivel. Bulbs are soft and don’t store well.	Spray with Dithane at first signs. Repeat fortnightly.	Grow onions on a difference site each year and ensure soil is well drained.
Leek Moth	Tunnelled leaves. Caterpillars feed inside young leaves leaving the outer skin. Also attacks leeks.	Spray with a contact insecticide at first signs of attack. Destroy badly affected leaves.	None
White Rot (Mouldy Nose)	Foliage turns yellow and wilts. Fluffy white mould on base of bulbs and round black bodies appear in the fungus.	None. Lift and burn affected plants.	None. Don’t grow onions on affected land for eight years.
Shanking	The centre leaves turn yellow and collapse, outer leaves follow later. Evil-smelling slime within scales.	None. Lift and burn affected plants.	None. Don’t grow onions on affected land for several years.
Neck Rot	During storage a grey mould appears near the neck. Bulbs are soft and rotten.	None. Remove rotten bulbs.	Dist seeds and sets with benomyl before planting. Dry bulbs thoroughly before storing. Don’t store soft bulbs or bulbs with green necks.

 

Looking after your lawn in Summer

Mowing

As temperatures hot up and we move into summer the growth of your lawn may actually start to slow down, mow as and when necessary never taking more than one third of the length of the plant off in any one cut. As always a sharp mower is essential. If temperatures become very hot your lawn will become stressed and it may be necessary to cut back on the frequency of mowing.

Feeding

It will not be necessary to feed your lawn during summer, however a feed with a spring lawn food in late spring will give it everything it needs to see it through the summer.

Watering

Summer is the time when drought can occur and a lawn can turn brown and straw coloured. Before addressing this problem the first thing to say is that well-maintained lawns will invariably recover once the rains return. Good maintenance at other times of the year, aeration and appropriate feeding will help rooting and the lawn’s ability to withstand and recover from periods of drought. If possible, avoidance is better than cure and the only way to prevent drought is to water the lawn. If you can water it is best to do this at the first signs of drought, when the grass is still green but starting to show signs of stress (little growth and a dulling of the normal bright green coloration). If you can water try to do this evenly. Also irrigate at times when the water is more likely to soak in. The general rule here is early morning or in the evening, which probably suits most homeowners. Remember to follow any local regulations when using water in summer. If your lawn does suffer from drought then mow as little as possible, the lawn won’t be growing rapidly and it will stress the lawn unnecessarily.

Broadleaf Weed Treatment

Broad leaved weeds should be treated using a suitable selective herbicide. Alternatively weed them out by hand or using a knife / mechanical weeder remembering to get the root of the weed out.

Enjoy your Lawn

Looking after and maintaining a beautiful lawn is a rewarding experience and past time. The results speak for themselves and are there for all to see. A grass surface is also one of the safest surfaces for you and your family to enjoy.

There are other benefits to having a beautiful lawn for example it is believed that standing barefoot on grass is a multi-sensory experience. It triggers within us deeply rooted associations with the smell and sound of nature and the vision of dense greenery.

Dealing with Lawn Pests

The most common lawn pests, Chafer Grubs and Leatherjackets, can cause significant damage to lawns. If you notice patches of poorly growing, yellowing grass check for signs of grubs feeding on the grass roots. These pests can be easily and safely controlled by applying a suitable nematode based product. Rolawn Chafer Grub Killer should be applied from mid-July through to late October. The optimum time of year to apply Rolawn Leatherjacket Killer is from August through to late October.

This advice comes courtesy of Rolawn Direct

Gardening Articles

Do you love your garden but not sure of the best way to prune your clematis, propagate plants for next year, make the best of your lawn or produce good quality compost?

If so then take a look at our gardening articles which we are sure will be useful to you. These articles are aimed at beginners and are written in the most simplistic way possible but if you require personal advice you can complete our Advice Form and we will email our response as quickly as possible.

• Aquatic Gardening, Ponds and Aquatic Plants
• Building Projects in the Garden
• Butterflies
• Composting in the Garden and the Kitchen
• Cut Flowers; Growing and Care
• Flowers and Plants
• Fruit and Vegetables
• Garden Birds and Wildlife
• Garden Maintenance Tasks
• Gardening for Children
• Green Gardening
• Greenhouse Gardening
• Lawn Care and Maintenance
• Outdoor Living
• Pests and Diseases
• Poisonous Plants
• Pruning
• Safety in the Garden
• Soil and Soil Improvement
• Types of Plants
• Weeds

Mulch and Mulching

Mulching is the application of organic matter on any exposed soil between plants, shrubs and trees and should be carried out while the soil is warm and moist.

Benefits of Mulching

• To retaining moisture – a good layer of garden compost or well-rotted mature will keep the soil below cool and moist and therefore help retain moisture. Never mulch on top of dry soil as it may stop rainwater soaking in
• To suppress weeds – a layer of mulch on top of the soil will exclude any light from weed seeds helping to stop them germinating. However, you must ensure that the ground is weed free before you mulch as it does not actually stop the weeds from growing
• To improve the soil – the mulch will eventually be dragged down into the soil by worms thereby adding goodness to the lower levels of the soil. This is sometimes known as the “no dig” technique for soil improvement.

Types of Mulch

• Fresh manure releases ammonia which can scorch or kill plants, therefore, should be kept for six months before being used so that it rots down sufficiently. Don’t keep it too long though as you will find all the nutrients will have been washed out by the rain
• Leaf Mould is just well rotted leaves; click here to find out how to make your own leaf mould
• Mushroom Compost tends to be alkaline due to the chalk used in the casing material but if you live in a mushroom growing area it can be a good source of organic matter. Especially good for acid soils
• Chipped Bark is good for mulching but composted bark is excellent for soil improvement
• Garden Compost is rich in nutrients and is one of the best soil improvers there is; click to find out how to make your own compost
• Peat used to be the main soil improver for gardeners but in recent years more and more people are realising the damage peat-extraction is making to wetland areas so it is best avoided

Weedkiller

Question:

I recently got involved has a volunteer in creating a community garden for elderly people the area we have was very overgrown we have now hacked it all to the ground with strimmers etc. but I have a idea that the weeds etc. will soon shoot up again.

I would like some advice on a good economical weedkiller has its a large area somebody mentioned something called weed matting is this easy to lay and expensive or inexpensive and above all effective and would that enable a lawn to be laid on top.

Answer:

It looks like you’ve taken on a massive job here but I’m sure it will be worth while in the end.

There are a few ways to remove the weeds. The first, and the hardest, is to dig over the whole area and remove the weeds by hand. Don’t be tempted to use a rotavator because this will chop up and spread perennial weed roots far and wide, making the weed problem much worse.

Leave the land for a few weeks during which time any annual weed seeds left will germinate and these can be removed by hand. Don’t add them to the compost heap as perennial weed seeds will remain in the soil.

If you don’t fancy digging, wait until new weed shoots appear and apply weedkiller containing glyphosate. I’ve done a bit of research and found the following weedkillers which sound good. You should be able to get them at your local garden centre or DIY store:

• Weedol 2 – An economical weedkiller that can be used all round the garden except on lawns, unless you want to kill them. Weedol doesn’t harm the soil so seeding or planting can be carried out immediately after treatment. Young green suckers of roses, lilac and plums can also be killed without harming the rootstock. Effective at any time of the year, Weedol is rainproof in 10 minutes. Contains diquat. Keep away from children and pets. 12 sachet carton treats 204m.
• Roundup Weedkiller – will completely kill all weeds and roots. Children and pets don’t need to be excluded from treated areas as it is biodegradable and starts to break down as soon as it touches the soil. It contains the chemical glyphosate and includes measuring cap for easy measuring. Do not use on lawns or other wanted plants as it will kill everything plant it touches. 280ml treats 280m.

Here are a few general rules to bear in mind when using weedkiller:

• Read the manufacturer’s instructions to be sure you are using the right weedkiller for the job
• Keep weedkiller off plants that you want to keep
• Dissolve/dilute the weedkiller according to instructions on the packaging and apply weeds using a fine rose (sprinkler head) on a watering can which you only use for weedkiller
• Don’t apply on a windy day because weedkillers can drift onto other plants
• The most effective time to apply weedkillers is when weeds are leafy and growing actively, mid-spring to early summer is ideal
• Keep weedkillers in a safe place, out of reach from children and pets. When empty, dispose of them carefully.

Not all weeds will die so repeat applications may be needed.

The final method to control weeds is to cover the ground with sheets of black plastic or old carpet. Emerging weed shoots won’t get any light and will starve and die. This may take a couple of years to be 100 per cent effective. You will be able to lay your lawn over the area once all the weeds have died. You may need to weed and feed the lawn after the first year to ensure new weeds don’t take hold.

For areas which are not going to be lawned you will need to ensure the weeds don’t come back. To help keep them to a minimum add a mulch of bark, compost, manure, gravel or slate. In addition you can also use a weed-proof membrane which is made of woven polypropylene. Lay this on top of the soil and add the mulch on top of that. Plant through the membrane by cutting crosses in the material. Again, the membrane will be available at your local garden centre or DIY store.

Lawn Problems

Even after following a strict maintenance programme you may find your lawn occasionally requires additional work or succumbs to pests or diseases.

Thatch

Thatch is a build-up of dead bits of grass on the surface of the soil and is quite natural in lawns that are getting old. The thatch prevents rain from soaking down to the grass roots and keeps moisture at the soil surface, encouraging moss. The thatch will build up faster if you don’t use a grass box on your mower.

Rake it out regularly during Autumn as part of a regular lawn-care programme.

Compaction

Compaction also occurs on older lawns and is caused by standing garden furniture on it, or running heavy barrows over it or even just standing on it during wet weather. All this activity squashes the lawn down and plant roots find it harder to push through the hard ground.

Spiking the soil with a fork alleviates compaction and, by making airways, helps the grass grow. Again it’s a job that’s best done in autumn.

On clay soil follow the spiking by brushing gritty sand into the vertical drainage channels (about a bucketful per square metre), this makes it firmer to walk on, yet better drained in wet conditions.

Weeds

The rosette-forming, or broad-leaved, weeds, such as daisies, plantains and dandelions are easy to eradicate with selective lawn weed killers. You can either spot-treat individual weeds with a ready-to-use product or you can sprinkle a combined weed-and-feed treatment over the whole lawn.

For small-leaved weeds you’ll need a liquid weed killer that is specially designed for this type of weed. Dilute it and water it on with a watering can.

Dead weeds leave bald patches in the lawn that are quickly colonized by weed seeds and moss, so it is a good idea to feed at the same time as weeding; if the grass is growing well, there will be no room for weeds.

Use lawn weed killers in late spring when weeds are growing fast, but before they start flowering. By the time they flower, weeds will have become too tough to respond well to treatment.

Apply liquid lawn weed killer on a dry day, so that it has at least 12 to 24 hours to be taken in through the leaves. If it’s washed away too soon, it won’t have a chance to work. If you use a granular weed-and-feed treatment turn on the sprinkler, if it hasn’t rained after 48 hours, to make sure that the treatment is effective.

Moss

Moss will continue to return if your lawn is in a damp, shady place so try to let in more light and improve the drainage.

The cheapest, simplest method of controlling moss is to rake it out, it is hard work so you may want to invest in a powered lawnraker or hire one.

An easier solution is to buy liquid lawn moss killer, or products that combine moss killer with lawn feed. You need to feed the lawn, so that it thickens up and fills gaps where moss has been, to stop weeds coming in. Apply in spring.

Lawn sand is an effective preparation that acts as a fertilizer, weed killer and moss killer, but it can scorch the lawn if applied too heavily. Buy it ready-made or make it up yourself from 4 parts (by weight) sulphate of ammonia: 1 part sulphate of iron: and 20 parts fine silver sand. Apply, at the rate of 115g per 1sq.m (4oz per sq. yd), when dry during spring and early summer, but make sure the soil is moist.

Once the moss turns black it is dead and can be raked out.

Bald Patches

Some bald patches on the lawn are due to constant use by regular heavy foot traffic, if this is the case you would be better off putting in a proper path. Some patches may be because the grass isn’t growing very well, and spiking and feeding may be all it needs. Other patches may simply be ‘scalped’ bumps; that happens when the mower skims off the top of higher areas of lawn. Levelling the lawn will correct this. If there are bald patches where large rosette weeds have been removed, or because the lawn in poor condition, the quickest way to deal with them is to reseed.

Broken Edges

Broken lawn edges look untidy, make mowing difficult and edging almost impossible. Take a sharp spade and cut out a square of turf that has the broken edge along one side. Turn it around and fit it back into the gap, so that the straight edge is around the outside of the lawn and the broken piece is on the inside. This leaves a hole in the lawn. Fill the hole with topsoil and firm it down then reseed it as if it were a bald patch.

Peaks and Hollows

To flatten peaks strip the turf off the peak, remove some of the soil beneath and level the spot before putting the turf back. Hollows are treated in the same way, but in reverse. Remove the turf, add topsoil until the hollow is level and put the grass back.

Earthworms

Worms are actually beneficial in the garden – they make hundreds of tiny drainage channels in the soil. They also drag organic matter, such as dead leaves, into the ground, helping with soil enrichment. However, some species of worm leave worm casts on the lawn’s surface (mainly in spring and autumn). When the weather is dry sweep the worm casts off the lawn with a stiff broom.

Ants

Ants like nesting in dry soil in lawns in summer and they will defend their nests, often giving you nasty nips. Ants usually target lawns which are thin and have lots of bare soil, so keeping a good lawn will deter them. Soak new nesting sites thoroughly with water to drive ants away, if this doesn’t work don’t worry; the whole colony will fly away in late Summer.

Moles

Moles burrow beneath lawns in search of earthworms. There are lots of ways you can try to get rid of moles but none of them are 100% successful and even if you do get rid of one it is highly likely that another will move into it’s place soon afterwards. As a final resort you can call in a mole catcher. If you accept the moles just remember to brush the molehill back into the hole to avoid bare batches and a sunken lawn.

Leatherjackets

Leatherjackets are the larvae of the crane fly (daddy-long-legs) and they eat grass roots. The first thing you know about it is lots of little yellow patches, or flocks of starlings probing for grubs and there isn’t an awful lot you can do about it except repair the pecked-up surface after the birds have finished.

Chafer grubs

Chafer grubs are the larvae of the chafer beetle. They can cause problems on any grassed area including lawns by feeding on the roots of grass plants.

Symptoms may appear as straw-coloured weak areas of grass, where the roots have been damaged. In most cases the larvae are discovered when birds or mammals, such as badgers or foxes, begin to rip up areas of the turf looking for the grubs. They are a protein filled delicacy to birds and mammals, which can destroy large areas when looking for them.

Take a look at our full article: Now is an ideal time to prevent damage caused by Chafer Grubs

A New Lawn from Turf

Turf  is pre-grown grass, which is cut from the ground ready for you to use as an instant lawn.

There are two types of turf available, Cultivated and Meadow. Cultivated turf if the most expensive but it gives a good quality lawn. Meadow turf is cheaper but it may have weeds or bare patches so will require more initial maintenance.

When you order your turf make sure you arrange for its arrival on a day when you are available to lay it. It is important to lay your turf as soon as possible after it arrives to ensure success.

If you have had to leave it sitting for a while, give it a good watering before you begin to lay it.

You can lay turf from early autumn to late spring, as long as the ground not too dry, frozen solid, or boggy.

Laying turf is fast but it is at least 10 times more expensive than producing a lawn from seed.

Equipment Required

• A sharp spade
• A garden fork
• A garden rake
• Special lawn fertiliser
• The turf
• A wooden plank
• A sharp kitchen knife

The Process

• Dig over or fork the ground the soil removing stones and roots as you go
• Rake the soil gently until level
• Sprinkle on fertilizer at the recommended rate and rake it in
• Tread over the whole area, sinking your weight well down into your heels to consolidate the soft patches
• Rake again to cover the footprints
• Without walking on the prepared ground, lay a line of turf in a straight row along one end of the area, butting their short sides up together
• Pat down the turf with the rake head so that each turf makes contact with the soil beneath
• Place your plank on the turf row you’ve just laid and walk along it as you lay the next row, staggering the joints between the turf like joints in brickwork
• Repeat, patting down each new row with the rake
• When you’ve covered the whole area, trim the outer edge of the turfed area with a sharp kitchen knife, so the lawn edge follows the shape of your beds
• Keep the area well watered for several days until the turf has knitted together
• Continue watering during dry spells

When the grass begins to grow cut the lawn with the blades set high so that only the tips are removed. The blades can be lowered as the lawn becomes more established.

If you laid your lawn in autumn then apply a quick-acting fertiliser in April or May. You can also add a top dressing to help smooth out any bumps and hollows.

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Find out how to produce a lawn from seed or click here to read other Lawn Care articles.

Lawn Care Calendar

January

• Remove fallen leaves
• Don’t walk on frozen turf
• Have the mower over­hauled and to make sure that the other lawn tools are ready for use in the spring
• Laying turf is possible during fine spells

February

• In mild districts worm casts may appear, brush them away when dry
• Do not be tempted to mow your lawn before March
• Finish turfing this month
• Begin soil preparation at the end of the month if you plan to sow seed

March

• As soon as the grass starts to grow and the weather is fine, rake the lawn to remove leaves and surface rubbish. Do not rake too vigorously at this stage or you will damage the grass.
• If there have been heavy frosts during the winter, settle the turf by light rolling
• Choose a dry day for the first cut and merely remove the top of the grass
• Two cuts are sufficient this month
• Apply a moss killer if necessary
• Neaten lawn edges with a half-moon edging iron
• Repair broken edges

Read our article to find out more about looking after your lawn in Spring

April

• Feeding and weeding can begin towards the end of the month, provided that the grass and weeds are actively growing
• Mow often enough to stop the grass growing away, but do not cut too low
• Dig out patches of coarse grass – fill the holes with sifted soil and then re-seed or re-turf

May

• Continue mowing, increase the frequency as necessary and lower the height of cut
• You should be mowing once a week
• This is the best month for weed killing
• Water if the month is particularly dry and before obvious signs of distress

June

• Mow twice a week when the soil is moist. If there is a long dry spell, raise the height of the cut and do not use the grass box.
• This is the time for summer feeding and weeding
• Trim the edges regularly
• Be repared to water if there is a dry spell

Read our article to find out more about looking after your lawn in Summer

July

• Mow regularly at the summer height
• Water if dry weather is prolonged
• Rake occasionally

August

• The same general treatment as for July
• August is the last month of the year for weed killing and for feeding with a nitrogen-rich ferti­lizer
• Seed sowing can begin in late August

Read our article to find out more about looking after your lawn in Autumn

September

• Increasing the interval between mowings and the raise the height of cut
• Worms may become active at this time of year
• Scarify, then spike any compacted areas and finally top dress
• Treat diseased patches
• Tackle moles this month
• Sowing seed

October

• Carry out the last cut or two, raising the cutter height.
• Trim lawn edges
• Apply Autumn Feed
• Carry out lawn repairs
• Complete the scarify-spike-top dress routine
• Brush up fallen leaves
• Dig out tufts of coarse grass, then re-turf or re-seed the bare patches
• Lay turf

Read our article to find out more about looking after your lawn in Winter

November

• Carry out final cut if the if the weather isn’t frosty or wet
• All equipment should now be cleaned and oiled for winter storage
• Keep the lawn clear of fallen leaves and other debris

December

• Brush away leaves
• Keep off the lawn when it is wet or frozen
• Turfing is possible during fine spells

Green Manure

Green manures are short-term crops that are specifically grown to be dug back into the soil, adding organic matter and nutrients. The main reasons for growing green manures are:

• To help break-up heavy soils and improve drainage>
• To suppress weeds
• To add organic matter to the soil to improve its structure and fertility
• To help make nutrients available to plants that are grown in the soil afterwards
• To prevent nutrients being washed through the soil in winter
• To protect the soil from compaction caused by heavy rains

Here’s how to produce green manure:

• Sow either by broadcasting (thrown randomly) or sown in rows
• Prepare the ground as you would for any other crop
• The crop can be dug into the soil as soon as it has put on some growth but the longer you leave it the greater the benefits. However, it must be dug in before it flowers and set seed or before the stems go woody
• Use a sharp spade, shears, nylon-line trimmer or even a rotary mower to chop down the green manure, and then incorporate everything (including the roots) into the soil as you dig
• Leave three weeks after digging in a green manure before planting or sowing in the same ground

The main drawback with green manures is that nothing else can be grown in that area whilst it is growing so it is best to choose an attractive, useful plant such as Lupins.

There is a range of good green manure crops; which you choose will depend on when you intend to sow it and how long you are prepared to leave it growing before incorporating it into your soil. Here are some examples:

Common Name	Latin Name	When to Sow	Growing Time	When to Dig In
Alfalfa	Medicago sativa	Late Spring	3-24 Months	Any Time while Fresh
Buckwheat	Fagopyrum esculentum	Spring to Late Summer	2-3 Months	Any Time before Flowering
Alsike clover	Trifolium hybridum	Spring to Summer	2-24 Months	Any Time while Fresh
Crimson clover	Trifolium incarnatum	Spring to Summer	2-6 Months	Just before Flowering
Essex red clover	Trifolium pratense	Spring to Summer	2-24 Months	Any Time while Fresh
Fenugreek	Trigonella foenum graecum	Spring to Summer	2-24 Months	After Flowering before pods develop
Fava beans	Vicia faba	Autumn	4 Months	Any Time before Flowering
Italian ryegrass	Lolium multiflorum	Early Spring	2-3 Months	Any Time before Flowering
Lupin	Lupinus angustifolius	Spring to Early Summer	2-3 Months	Just before Flowering
Mustard	Sinapis alba	Spring to Early Autumn	Up to 2 Months	Any Time before Flowering
Phacelia	Phacelia tanacetifolia	Spring to Early Autumn	2-6 Months	Just before Flowering
Rye	Secale cereale	Late Summer to Autumn	4-6 Months	Just before Flowering
Trefoil	Medicago lupulina	Spring to Summer	12 Months	Any Time while Fresh
Winter tare	Vicia sativa	Spring to Late Summer	2-6 Months	Any Time before Flowering

Buy Green Manure seeds from Suttons:

• Green Manure Mix Seeds – adds nutrients and moisture to soil. Price: £2.99
• Organic Green Manure Red Clover Seeds – helps improve fertility. Price: £2.45
• Organic Green Manure Phacelia Balo Seeds – dense, quick-growing foliage. Price: £2.45

The GR Allotment: Update

The Gardening Register has had it’s allotment for nearly a year now and we are finally making progress.

We were unable to do much during the winter months due to the bad weather then we struggled to find a vehicle large enough to deliver our supplies.

The first job this year was to have a few tonnes of aggregate delivered which my brother Allan spread across the area planned for the shed and greenhouse. We then had a couple of tonnes of sand delivered which was spread on top of the aggregate.

To finish off this area we were lucky enough to have the help of Allan’s father-in-law to lay the slabs which look great.

Allan also managed to get three raised beds built and ready for planting so our potatoes went in a couple of weeks ago. We are growing Anya, a second early and Maris Piper a late and our Mum’s favourite potatoe, great for chips, roasting and mash.

It’s not too late to order your seed potatoes from Thompson & Morgan. Click here.

Last weekend Allan and I started to erect the greenhouse; a much harder task than is sounds! We will finish the glazing next weekend.

We also planted out some Brussel Sprouts and Petit Pois Peas; our first splash of green on the plot.

A lot of the heavy, landscaping work is complete but we still need to erect the shed lay pathways. We are still to decide what our pathways will be made of as we’re not keen on having too much of the area covered in slabs. We may lay a good thick layer of bark on top of a weed suppressing membrane which will keep the weeds down but will look more natural.

The Pyracantha hedging is looking good and we think it will make a great background to the site. Pyracantha is an evergreen shrub with dark green leaves, spiny branches and bunches of small white flowers in late spring. These are followed by a profusion of yellow, orange or red berries in autumn. It can be grown as a free-standing shrub, against a wall or as a hedge. Click here to buy your own from Crocus.co.uk.

Last update June 2009; more updates to follow.

Poisonous Plants

Most of the plants you grow are perfectly safe but it is advisable to see that all steps are taken to ensure that you and your family are safe from harm. This is particularly important when it comes to children and animals.

The Horticultural Trades Association has worked with the Royal Horticultural Society and other organisations to compile a list of potentially harmful plants and to develop a Code of Recommended Retail Practice for the labelling of plants at garden centres and nurseries. Look for safety information on labels when purchasing plants and learn what to do in the unlikely event of poisoning through eating or handling plants.

 

Many plants, or parts of them such as fruits and seeds, are safe and good to eat and are recognized as food plants. Most others found in the garden as ornamental plants or weeds are not dangerous. Some may cause a digestive upset and discomfort if eaten, as will unripe fruit or raw rhubarb stalks, whilst a very few garden plants are more hazardous and could cause severe poisoning. A sensible rule is: If it isn’t a recognized food, don’t eat it. Make sure children know this.

As well as the danger of poisoning through eating plants, there is also the possibility of suffering an irritant or allergic reaction through contact with a plant or its sap. There are three main types of contact hazard:

a) Irritant sap may cause a burning sensation and sometimes blistering of the skin

b) Some plants contain chemicals called allergens

c) A very small number of plants have sap which renders the skin excessively sensitive to strong sunlight

 

What to do when poisoning is suspected

If you think a child or adult has eaten part of a doubtful plant seek medical advice at once from a hospital Accident and Emergency Department. If you think an animal has eaten a poisonous plant seek veterinary advice at once. In all cases take along samples of the plant concerned. Don’t panic, and do not attempt to make the subject vomit. In cases of irritant or allergic dermatitis severe enough to require medical attention, again provide a sample of the plant or plants suspected to be the cause.

Here is a list of well known plants and a description of the potential risk. Those plants described as poisonous may cause mild illness when eaten, while a very few may cause severe poisoning. The correct approach is to avoid eating any plants listed as poisonous.

Key: P = Poisonous, S = Skin Irritant, E = Eye Irritant

 

 

All of these plants are safe to grow provided they are treated with respect. Remember they are ornamental plants, not food plants.

With thanks to the RHS for this vital information

Photinia fraseri dropping it’s leaves

Question:

I recently moved to the Netherlands. In my new yard I found a Photinia fraseri Camilvy. Over the winter it’s leaves where light green with a few brownish spots. The winter was very cold. I don’t think anybody cut the photinia back last year. Now spring has arrived and new red leaves are growing from the top. The old green leaves turned into beautiful red ones still with the dark spots on and start to fall off one after the other. Is that normal?

Answer:

Photinia fraseri is a very hardy plant and can survive quite low temperatures; the fact that you have had some new growth is a good sign but I think we need to establish if the plant is still alive.

Using your thumb nail gently scrape away a little of the outer surface of some of the stems; if the stem is green underneath then the plant is alive, if it is brown underneath then the stem is dead. Scrape away the surface of several stems as some may be dead and some alive.

If the shrub is alive it may just need rejuvenating; here’s how:

• Wait until the weather warms up and all risk of snow and frost has passed
• Cut all the stems down to around 6ins
• Sprinkle some bone meal on the soil around the plant and water in well
• Add a good 2-3ins of mulch to the surface of the soil; this will help keep in moisture and keep weeds away
• Keep the shrub well watered whilst it is re-establishing itself
• The new growth on Photinia is red so as soon as you see this you know your plant will be OK
• The leaves will turn green as they get older but should stay on the plant throughout the year
• Cutting back each spring or summer will keep the shrub under control and will help it produce the lovely red foliage
• Don’t cut back during the autumn as this new growth is susceptible to frost damage

If all the stems are dead you may still be able to revive the shrub by cutting it back to a few inches and following the procedure above. If new growth doesn’t appear after a couple of weeks then you are as well digging it up and buying a new one.

If you only have a few dead stems remove them from the base and cut back the remaining stems and, again, follow the procedure above.

Here’s a link to an article on Photinia at the RHS which may help you in the future.

Types of Plants – Hedges

Hedges are trees or shrubs which are planted close together to form a continuous row of foliage. They are usually cut to maintain a particular shape and height. Visit our Hedges page for more information.

Care:

• Choose healthy plants either bare rooted or container grown
• Clear the ground of all weeds
• The addition of organic matter or fertilisers is not required unless the soil is particularly sandy
• Water the plants well before planting
• Plant at regular intervals in holes big enough not to constrict the roots
• Water in well and apply a mulch to help retain moisture and keep down weeds
• Some species benefit from being pruned immediately after planting, check the label for details
• Shoots should be reduced to about 10cm
• Most deciduous plants should be reduced to about one-third in the autumn after planting
• Evergreens and informal hedges should not be cut-back until they are at least a year old.

Unfortunately we don’t have any hedges on our property. Here are some examples of plants which make great hedges, click the images to buy your own.

Fagus sylvatica – Common Beech

Pyracantha Red Column – Firethorn

Taxus baccata – English Yew

Types of Plants – Ground Cover Plants

Ground Cover plants are low growing, spreading shrubs which can cover a large area of ground, usually quite quickly. They suppress weeds and require very little attention.

Care: Clear the ground of weeds and dig over the soil, add well-rotted organic matter and fertiliser if required. Water the plants thoroughly before planting. Dig a hole twice as big as the pot. Plant at the same level as it was in the pot. Firm well, water and mulch.

Ground Cover Plants in our Garden: Below is a selection of ground cover plants we have in our garden; click the image to Buy your Own

Winter Hardy Evergreen Plants

Vinca major – Variegated Periwinkle*

Geranium – Johnson’s Blue

*Photographs owned by Linda Peppin if you wish to use these photographs in your own work please drop her a line using the contact us link below.

Types of Plants – Climbers

Climbers are shrubs which are adapted to growing up vertical structures, they add a vertical element to a garden and can be trained against a wall, fence or trellis, over arches and pergolas, through trees or used as ground cover. There are many different types of climbers from annuals, deciduous perennials and evergreens; choose one to suit your soil type, aspect and climate.

Care: Before planting dig the soil thoroughly, remove all weeds and incorporate lots of well-rotted organic matter. Add fertiliser and improve the drainage if required. Make a hole two or three times the width of the plant and deep enough to ensure the plant is deeper than it was in the pot to help avoid clematis wilt. Ensure that the hole isn’t too close to walls or fences as this can cause the plant to dry out quickly. Keep it well watered until established.

Most climbers do not require any pruning however, clematis and wisteria perform much better when strict pruning is carried out:

• Wisteria: once a framework has been established and flowering is over, cut-back the long whippy growth to about 15cm followed by a further pruning to 2-3 buds in mid-winter.
• Clematis: early large flowering species should have some of the old growth cut back after flowering. Early flowering species such as Montana and Alpina can be cut back hard every few years. Late flowering species should be pruned to 15-30cm from the ground during January/February.

Climbers in our Garden: Below is a selection of climbers we have in our garden; click the image to Buy your Own

Clematis – Multi Blue*

Lonicera japonica – Halliana

Wisteria – Alba

*Photographs owned by Linda Peppin if you wish to use these photographs in your own work please drop her a line using the contact us link below.

Types of Plants – Biennials

Biennials are herbaceous plants that complete their life-cycle in two years. Growing in the first year and flowering in the next. Some plants grown as biennials are actually short-lived perennials, they tend to be dug up after flowering because they do not perform well in their second year.

Care: Like Hardy Annuals, Biennials can stand the cold so seeds are sown outdoors in Spring to flower the following Summer and it is important that the soil is not too rich or it will encourage leafy growth instead of lots of flowers.

It is possible to buy two year old plants during Spring which flower that Summer. Clear the ground of all weeds and keep them well watered. Add plenty of well-rotted organic matter when planting and stake tall plants. Deadheading regularly throughout the growing season will encourage more flowers although you may want to leave some flowers to allow them self-seed around the garden and save you some work. In autumn, after flowering and once the plants begin to die down pull them up and put on the compost heap.

Biennials in our Garden: Below is a selection of biennials we had in our garden this year; click the image to Buy your Own

Foxglove Alba

Wallflower Orange Bedder

Sweet William Summer Sundae

Types of Plants – Bedding Plants

Bedding Plants are usually used to fill gaps in the borders for a temporary affect. Once flowering is complete they can be disposed of on the compost heap. They mainly consist of Half Hardy Annuals.

Care: Buy plants during early Summer once all risk of frost has passed. Clear the ground of all weeds and keep the plants well watered. Add plenty of well-rotted organic matter when planting and stake tall plants. It is important that the soil is not too rich or it will encourage leafy growth instead of lots of flowers.

Deadheading regularly throughout the growing season will encourage more flowers although you may want to leave some flowers to allow them self-seed around the garden and save you some work.

In autumn once the plants begin to die down pull them up and put on the compost heap.

Bedding Plants in our Garden: Below is a selection of half hardy annual used as Bedding Plants that we had in our garden this year; click the image to Buy your Own seed to grow or visit your local garden centre in early summer for colourful displays of bedding plants in flower.

Impatiens walleriana Envoy Peach Butterfly

Cosmos bipinnatus Psyche White

African Marigold Galore Mixed

Types of Plants – Half Hardy Perennials

Half Hardy Perennials are similar to hardy perennials in that they will also die down in autumn and grow again the following spring, however, they cannot withstand frost so they require to be protected over the winter or taken into a greenhouse.

Care: Plant Half Hardy Perennials in autumn or spring. The site should be well prepared and lots of well-rotted organic matter incorporated, remove all weeds and ensure the soil is well drained, water well before planting and a good layer of mulch.

Deadhead regularly to encourage flowering throughout the season but keep a few heads in place to produce seeds for the following year. Once flowering is over and the plant starts to die back cut back the dead growth to ground level to keep the site tidy and cover with horticultural fleece or a cloche to protect them over the winter. Alternatively dig up the plant, place in a pot and keep in a greenhouse until the risk of frost is passed.

Half Hardy Perennials in our Garden: Below is a selection of hardy perennials we have in our garden; click the image to Buy your Own:

Fancy Leaf Pelargonium

Fuchsia Dancing Flame

Penstemon heterophyllus Heavenly Blue Springs

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