Our Garden in January

Following on from my failed attempt at taking photographs of our garden each week I have decided to just take photographs when there is something interesting to show you.

Today, 23rd January 2012, I was surprised to notice the size of the Camellia Buds, this time last year they were a lot smaller but we had just had the worst winter in many years so not surprising really.

I went outside with my camera and also found the Snowdrops looking great as well as the Winter Flowering Jasmine and Witch Hazel; take a look below.

To buy your own Camellia, Snowdrops, Witch Hazel or Winter Flowering Jasmine visit Crocus.co.uk

 

Jobs to do in January

In the Flower Garden:

• Plant bare-root roses, trees and shrubs
• Prune standard roses
• Take hardwood cuttings from shrubs
• Remove dead stems and leaves from perennials
• Tidy grasses

In the Vegetable Garden:

• Fork over empty beds and mix in compost
• Plant fruit trees
• Prune Gooseberry bushes
• Warm up beds for early crops
• Tie raspberry and blackberry canes to support wires

In the Greenhouse:

• Monitor heaters to ensure they are working efficiently
• Take root cuttings of perennials
• Wash greenhouse glass to let in more light
• Water plants when the compost is dry
• Regularly deadhead over-wintering plants

Lawns:

• Continue to Remove fallen leaves
• Don’t walk on frozen turf
• Have the mower over­hauled and to make sure that the other lawn tools are ready for use in the spring
• Laying turf is possible during fine spells

General:

• Recycle your Christmas tree
• Order seed potatoes, onion sets and garlic
• Order early from seed catalogues
• Dig compost into empty areas of soil
• Add shredded winter prunings to your compost heap

Looking after your lawn in Winter

Try to rest the lawn as much as possible during winter. If practical keep off when wet or frosty, as the grass plants are not actively growing; they will not repair themselves if damaged until the spring.

Mowing

Only mow the lawn if necessary; this will depend upon weather conditions and temperatures at the time. Do not mow if heavy frosts are expected or if the ground is very wet.

Clear leaves and debris

Use a light rake or brush to keep the lawn free of leaves and debris. Specialist leaf sweepers and lawn vacuums are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns; although in winter it is better to keep off with heavier machines.

Aeration

Aerate consolidated areas of the lawn with a hand fork or with a spiking machine. These are available for hire from local garden centres or DIY stores for larger lawns. This will relieve compaction, improve drainage and allow more air into the root system leading to a healthier lawn.

Dealing with worms

Remember worms improve the nutrient content of a soil and are beneficial to the soil structure. Worm casts are best left to dry and then swept or brushed away with a stiff brush.

As leaves fall from the trees use a light rake or brush to keep the lawn free of leaves and debris.

Service mower

Service or replace your mower if necessary ready for the next growing season. As always make sure that the blades are in good condition and are sharp.

This advice is courtesy of Rolawn Direct

Jobs to do in December

In the Flower Garden:

• Move patio containers to a sheltered spot if very cold
• Plant out Wallflowers
• Plant out new rose bushes
• Take root cuttings of suitable perennials
• Move shrubs growing in the wrong place

In the Vegetable Garden:

• Take hardwood cuttings from healthy fruit bushes
• Start pruning apple and pear trees
• Cut down Jerusalem artichokes
• Prune Gooseberry bushes Sow winter lettuces

In the Greenhouse:

• Monitor heaters to ensure they are working efficiently
• Ventilate greenhouses on warm, dry days
• Plant up Hippeastrums (Amaryllis) bulbs
• Treat timber with preservative
• Use rainwater to keep potted azaleas moist

Lawns:

• Brush away fallen leaves
• Keep off the lawn when it is wet or frozen
• Turfing is possible during fine spells

General:

• Wrap insulation around all outside taps and pipes
• Order early from seed catalogues
• Dig compost into beds empty areas of soil
• Check tree and climber ties are secure
• Keep bird feeders clean

Stock up on De-icing Salt for the Winter

If we have another winter like the last two we are in for a tough few weeks.

Last year lots of people injured themselves slipping on the ice and snow. This year why not be prepared and order your de-icing salt now so it is available to treat your paths and driveways as soon as the ice and snow arrives.

Here are some special prices from Rolawn:

• De-icing Rock Salt bulk bag from £179.99
• De-icing Rock Salt 10 x small bags from £86.28
• De-icing Rock Salt 20 x small bags from £134.16
• De-icing Rock Salt 30 x small bags from £182.04
• De-icing Rock Salt 50 x small bags from £233.40

Lawn Care Calendar

January

• Remove fallen leaves
• Don’t walk on frozen turf
• Have the mower over­hauled and to make sure that the other lawn tools are ready for use in the spring
• Laying turf is possible during fine spells

February

• In mild districts worm casts may appear, brush them away when dry
• Do not be tempted to mow your lawn before March
• Finish turfing this month
• Begin soil preparation at the end of the month if you plan to sow seed

March

• As soon as the grass starts to grow and the weather is fine, rake the lawn to remove leaves and surface rubbish. Do not rake too vigorously at this stage or you will damage the grass.
• If there have been heavy frosts during the winter, settle the turf by light rolling
• Choose a dry day for the first cut and merely remove the top of the grass
• Two cuts are sufficient this month
• Apply a moss killer if necessary
• Neaten lawn edges with a half-moon edging iron
• Repair broken edges

Read our article to find out more about looking after your lawn in Spring

April

• Feeding and weeding can begin towards the end of the month, provided that the grass and weeds are actively growing
• Mow often enough to stop the grass growing away, but do not cut too low
• Dig out patches of coarse grass – fill the holes with sifted soil and then re-seed or re-turf

May

• Continue mowing, increase the frequency as necessary and lower the height of cut
• You should be mowing once a week
• This is the best month for weed killing
• Water if the month is particularly dry and before obvious signs of distress

June

• Mow twice a week when the soil is moist. If there is a long dry spell, raise the height of the cut and do not use the grass box.
• This is the time for summer feeding and weeding
• Trim the edges regularly
• Be repared to water if there is a dry spell

Read our article to find out more about looking after your lawn in Summer

July

• Mow regularly at the summer height
• Water if dry weather is prolonged
• Rake occasionally

August

• The same general treatment as for July
• August is the last month of the year for weed killing and for feeding with a nitrogen-rich ferti­lizer
• Seed sowing can begin in late August

Read our article to find out more about looking after your lawn in Autumn

September

• Increasing the interval between mowings and the raise the height of cut
• Worms may become active at this time of year
• Scarify, then spike any compacted areas and finally top dress
• Treat diseased patches
• Tackle moles this month
• Sowing seed

October

• Carry out the last cut or two, raising the cutter height.
• Trim lawn edges
• Apply Autumn Feed
• Carry out lawn repairs
• Complete the scarify-spike-top dress routine
• Brush up fallen leaves
• Dig out tufts of coarse grass, then re-turf or re-seed the bare patches
• Lay turf

Read our article to find out more about looking after your lawn in Winter

November

• Carry out final cut if the if the weather isn’t frosty or wet
• All equipment should now be cleaned and oiled for winter storage
• Keep the lawn clear of fallen leaves and other debris

December

• Brush away leaves
• Keep off the lawn when it is wet or frozen
• Turfing is possible during fine spells

Our Plant of the Month – Hamamelis (Witch Hazel)

One of the most spectacular plants in January is Hamamelis or Witch Hazel with the added bonus of brightly coloured leaves during the Autumn. The delicious scent from the spidery flowers is lovely at this time of year; bring a few flowering branches indoors to enjoy them all day long. The flower colours vary from bright yellow, through orange to a deep orange red, they appear in clusters along the bare branches during the winter and remain until the leaves arrive in the Spring. The Witch Hazel is a woodland plant and very low maintenance.

Crocus.co.uk are currently offering four varieties of Hamamelis, one of which is their plant of the month, click here for more information.

Plant your Spring Flowering Bulbs

Now is the time to plant your spring flowering bulbs.

Spring Flowering Bulbs come in lots of shapes, sizes and colours but the one thing they have in common is the ability to turn a dull late winter, early spring garden into an oasis of light and colour. No garden is complete without the good old daffodil or tulip but there are many other spring flowering bulbs which will add additional interest.

There are bulbous plants for lots of different situations but nearly all require good drainage and many thrive in sunny sites. Many bulbous plants are threatened in the wild so it is important to buy bulbs from cultivated sources such as Crocus.co.uk which has a great range of colourful, healthy Spring Flowering Bulbs.

When planting incorporate well-rotted organic matter and a balanced fertiliser. Bulbs generally need planting quite deep; the general rule is three times their own depth. However, if you get the depth wrong most bulbs will pull themselves down into the ground using special, contractile roots. If you’re planting bulbs in heavy soil, add grit to the bottom of the hole to ensure good drainage.

A few bulbs prefer shallow planting. Plant Madonna lilies (Lilium candidum) with the tip of the bulb just showing above ground. Lay Crown Imperials (Fritillaria imperialis) on their sides so that water can’t collect in their hollow centre and make them rot.

Deadhead regularly and apply a low nitrogen, high potassium fertiliser in subsequent years. Lift and divide if they become overcrowded.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium cristophii – Star of Persia
Huge globes of small star-shaped, pinkish-purple flowers appear in summer above narrow, grey-green leaves. In bloom these fabulous globes – up to 20cm (8in) in diameter – have a metallic sheen. The faded flowerheads hold up well in the border and are useful for dried flower arrangements. Perfect for a sunny site, dotted in small groups among ornamental grasses, or as part of a Mediterranean scheme. Alliums look best planted between medium-sized herbaceous plants, which help to mask the strap-like leaves, which fade by the time the flowers appear.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’ – Dutch Garlic
Dense, rich-purple globes held high on erect stems above strap-like, mid green leaves appear in early summer. They look spectacular grouped in a pot, or in a sunny border, dotted in groups among ornamental grasses, or as part of a Mediterranean scheme. Alliums look best planted between medium-sized herbaceous plants, which help to mask the strap-like leaves, which fade by the time the flowers appear.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Allium sphaerocephalon – round-headed leek
Small, egg-shaped, claret-coloured flowerheads appear like drumsticks on tall, slender stems above strap-like, mid-green leaves in mid to late summer. Planted en masse in a border in full sun, these diminutive claret flowers look great emerging from a screen of foliage, or against a backdrop of ornamental grasses. They gently fade as summer comes to a close.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Anemone blanda blue-flowered – winter windflower blue-flowered
This is a wonderful plant that produces cheerful, daisy-like flowers in shades of blue and purple in March and April. These are perfect plants for naturalising in a mixed border around the base of deciduous shrubs, or adding spring colour to the edge of a woodland garden. For maximum impact, plant in bold drifts in September or October, and if happy, they should spread quite quickly.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Crocus chrysanthus ‘Cream Beauty’
Rich-cream goblets with brown flushes and deep golden-yellow throats, emerge in February and March amid slender, strap-shaped, mid green leaves. These spring-flowering crocuses are perfect for naturalising in sunny, well-drained areas of the lawn. Relatively vigorous, they soon form large colonies, which can be divided in early autumn for use in other parts of the garden.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Fritillaria meleagris – snake’s head fritillary
Pretty, pendent, white and pinkish-purple bells with distinctive checkerboard markings on slender stems in April and May. These delightful snake’s head fritillaries are perfect for naturalising in a moist woodland edge or wildflower garden. It’s essential to select a site where the soil remains moist in summer.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Galanthus nivalis ‘Viridapice’ – snowdrop
A taller variety with a distinctive, long spathe which looks like the flowers have a hood. This is a good choice for those looking for a slightly more unusual snowdrop, or those wanting to add to their collection as it is still quite rare. Both the inner and outer petals are white, but have green markings which make them look as if they have been painted with a brush.

Spring Flowering Bulb
Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Woodstock’ – Hyacinth
A fabulous hyacinth with deep magenta-purple blooms that are delicately scented. Plant in mixed beds in the garden or in pots on the patio so you can move them around for best effect. A great colour for mixing with deep purples or plum shades to create a ‘bruised’ border.

Browse the full range of Spring Flowering Bulbs from Crocus.co.uk

Plant of the Month for September – Japanese Anemone

Our plant of the month for September is Japanese Anemone.

Japanese Anemone are beautiful plants, are very easy to grow and flower their heads off from August through to the frosts. During September they are at their best when there are few other plants around. The Gardening Register has two varieties in the garden Anemone ‘September Charm’ and Anemone ‘Honorine Jobert’. Honorine Jobert has been in for nearly ten years now and it never ceases to amaze me every year. September Charm was planted last autumn so this is it’s first true flowering season. The plants need to bulk up a bit before they’ll be as showy as Honorine. Take a look at the plants in our garden.

They are happy in full sun or partial shade and prefer moist, fertile soil. They are fully hardy and flower between July and September or even to the frosts if you’re lucky.

To care for your Japanese Anemones:

• Cut back the stalks after the flowers have faded
• Tidy up old dead leaves in March
• Apply a generous 5-7cm (2-3in) mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant in spring
• Avoid moving the plant since it resents disturbance
• Where necessary lift and divide congested clumps in early spring

BUY NOW

Click here to see the whole range of Japanese Anemone from Crocus.co.uk

Aquatic Gardening

There are several points you need to consider before building your pond or water feature. Should it be formal or informal, natural or modern? Do you want to keep fish, grow plants or attract wildlife? Are there children to keep safe?

Once you have answered these questions you need to decide where you want to site the pond or water feature. A pond should be kept away from big trees and shrubs so ensure their roots don’t puncture the lining. If you want to keep fish you need to have a pretty deep pond to stop it freezing over the winter. The smallest you should build a pond is 60cm (2ft) deep and 1 x 1.5m (3 x 5ft) across. However, the bigger the better.

If childrens’ safety is and issue or you prefer not to have to maintain a pond then a water feature is an excellent compromise. You could build a wall fountain or a pebble pool which can be sited in sun or shade near to a power supply. If you do not have external power then a wide plant container or half a barrel, without drainage holes, is ideal. You can still grow small aquatic plants or use floating oxygenators such as water hyacinth. You will need to protect them during winter or empty the container and start again in the spring.

For more about aquatic gardening visit these articles: Build a Garden Pond and Pond Plants

How do you grow your own cut flowers?

Buying cut flowers on a regular basis can be quite costly, so why not try growing your own in the garden?

They can be grown in their own cutting bed or mixed into a border to add to the display; either way you could raise enough flowers to have a constant supply of fresh blooms for your home.

To get the best quality flowers it is best to grow them in a sunny spot on well drained, fertile soil. Most will need to be supported to avoid damage and it is also wise to provide shelter from strong winds.

What typs of flowers can I grow?

• Half hardy annuals

• • The are the easiest to grow as the seed are sown directly into the soil where you want them flower
  • Sow between March and May, staggering the sowings to get a succession of flowers over the summer
  • Once all the flowers have been cut and no more buds form, lift the entire plant and put on the compost heap
  • Repeat the process next spring
  • Some examples are:
    • tobacco plants (nicotiana)
    • zinnia
    • snapdragons
    • cosmos
• Biennials
  • Sow seed between May and July to flower the following year
  • Sow where they are to flower or in seed trays
  • As with the annuals, discard after flowering is over
  • Keep sowing each May to get more flowers each year
  • Some examples are:
    • erysimum (wallflowers)
    • sweet william
    • dianthus
• Perennial
  • These will flower year after year so are a good investment
  • Plant rooted cuttings in spring or pot-grown specimens at any time
  • Perennials will die down for winter and most will be OK outside, however dahlias will need a good layer of mulch over them to help them through
  • Some examples are:
    • dahlia
    • chrysanthemum
    • alchemilla mollis
• Bulbs
  • Plant spring flowering bulbs at the end of summer or early autumn
  • Once the flowers have been cut and no more buds appear leave the foliage on the plant to die down naturally, this provides the bulb with food for the following year
  • Some examples are:
    • daffodils
    • tulips
    • allium

Most plants will benefit from being picked regularly as it will encourage more buds to form and extend your cutting season.

Keep all plants well watered throughout the growing season a feed every couple of weeks.

Cutting back Carnations

Question:

Last year I sent for some carnation plug plants which I duly planted in the garden, last year they increased in size but only one plant flowered. They over-wintered well and have produced masses of blooms this summer. I neglected to stake them and they now look awful, can I cut them back or will that kill them?

Answer:

Carnations can quickly look messy if they are not supported so I think the only thing you can do is to cut them down and start again next year. Don’t cut them too low, just enough to stop them falling over.

Carnations are very easy to propagate so why not use some of the cut-offs to produce new plants for next year. Ideally this should take place in the spring but they should still root Ok at this time of year:
• Fill a pot with at least 5 inches of sand or vermiculite, water well.
• Take your cuttings which should be about 6 inches long and should include at least three sets of leaves, remove the bottom sets to leave 3-4 inches of bear stem.
• Dip the bottom of each stem in rooting hormone powder (not essential but it will help with rooting).
• Use a pencil to poke a hole in the sand or vermiculite and insert the cutting to a depth of 3-4 inches and firm around the stem. The cuttings can be placed as close together as 1 or 2.
• Place in a shady, frost-free place and check regularly; water when needed.
• The cuttings should be rooted in six to eight weeks and can then be planted in their own pots over the winter and planted out next spring.

Planting carnations in groups means that they help each other to stay upright so the more the better. It is also worth noting that carnations prefer full sun and flop even more in shade; if you have them in the shade you may want to consider moving them.

Tomatoes and Olives

Question:
How do I nurture a tumbling tomatoe plant that we have hanging in a basket? How do I ensure a good crop? There are very small green baby tomatoes at present. Does it need repotting as it looks a bit big now for the basket

I bought the most gorgeous olive tree a couple of months ago. Its about 2.5 feet tall. I repotted it in John Innes No 3 mixed with grit. Is it right to keep it very moist initially? What feed, if any, should I use? How do I know its healthy?

Answer:
Your tumbling tomato plant will need lots of watering to stop the fruits splitting and it will need feeding every week with a tomato feed to ensure a good healthy crop. They really need to be in a very sunny spot for the fruit to ripen successfully. I have never been able to grow tomatoes outside as my garden is north facing and doesn’t get much sun. I wouldn’t re-pot it; it should be fine if you keep feeding and watering.

Olives are not entirely hardy in the UK so will need some protection during cold and frosty periods. You were right to plant in a well-drained mix of compost and grit. Although they can cope with dry periods, olives in containers need regular watering and feeding to produce fruit. During the growing season keep the compost moist and feed every month. In winter, you can reduce watering, but don’t let the compost dry out completely. As long as the leaves are undamaged and there is sign of new growth you can assume the plant is healthy. If the plant is kept in a very sunny location you may even get fruit after a couple of years.

Questions for April 2008

Question

I am not sure if you can help but I am looking to buy some coprosma evening glow or/and coprosma fire burst so far I have had little luck I have tried googling it but very poor results none of my local garden centres stock it I bought some last year from a local market and would like to get more I really want a fairly well established rather than a small gutting that needs to be grown on do you know of any online nurseries that would sell this also regards dogwood I really like the look of this but again not been able to find it in my garden centres does this come in the form of a shrub or bush has its something I am not familiar with thanks for any help you can provide

Answer

I have to admit to not knowing about Coprosma but I have managed to find a company who sell a few varieties. Click on this link:  http://www.burncoose.co.uk/site/plants.cfm?pn_id=176. There are several types of Dogwood (Cornus) so I have added a link to a few at Crocus for you to look at.

Question

We have a well established pear tree in our garden. The problem is that is has grown lopsided / horizontally right across the garden, so much so that it is obstructing the garden path. I would like to keep the tree but would like some advice on how to prune it to encourage it to grow upwards rather than outwards.

Answer

It is possible to do what you are asking but it will need to be done in stages as to reduce the stress to the tree. I think the best thing for you to do is to follow RHS advice on this matter so I have included a link below on Apple and pear tree renovation: http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles1101/fruit_tree.asp

Question

I have what seems to be three different type of spotted laurels one is dark green in colour the other light green with what seems like the beginning of possibly some flowers the other is the same colour light green the first two were planted around a month ago and around 2 3 ft the last one was planted last summer and has hardly grown at all I did read for these to produce flowers you need a male and female like a holly and I thought they were very quick growers I have seen some has high has well over 20foot round where I live they seem to get bigger every year mine are planted in full sun in a good quality compost any information on this plant would be welcomed thank you. I bought a shrub called a beauty berry in October last year it had a abundance of purple berries which have gradually dropped of I believe it is suppose to have pink flowers in summer but at moment I have just a bare shrub is this normal

Answer

Regarding your laurels; do you know which variety you have? I have detailed three of the more common ones below and as you can see their sizes and flowering requirements do vary. If you can find the actual varieties I can do more research for you.

• Aucuba Japonica Crotonifolia. Evergreen, bushy, dense shrub with stout, green shoots. Large glossy, dark green leaves are heavily mottled yellow. Grows in sun or shade and well drained soil. Height 1.7m Spread 1.7m. Male.
• Aucuba Japonica Rozannie. Very handsome shrub which has large, toothed and leathery green leaves. This all green form is self pollinating and produces large red fruits in winter. Grows in any situation and any soil to about 1m. Male.
• Aucuba Japonica Variegata. Evergreen, bushy, dense shrub grown for its yellow spotted leathery leaves. Height 7 ft. Spread 7 ft. requires any reasonable soil. Will thrive in sun or shade. Plant with crotonifolia for berries. Can be kept as a colourful hedge or as a specimen plant. Female. As regards your Beauty Berry (Callicarpa bodinieri var. giraldii Profusion). The lovely purple berries will gradually drop off, or get eaten by the birds, before the end of the winter which is normal. It will remain bare until it begins to produce its leaves then small pink flowers around July.

Question

I have got some branches on our pear tree where the buds are not opening – should I cut them back or just leave it?

Answer

If the tree is the right size and shape for you then I’d leave it. However, you may want to read the RHS article below for information on how to prune your tree should you wish. http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles1101/fruit_tree.asp

Question

Now that the buds are out on the roses does this mean that I can cut them with an outward facing slope away from a bud at a height of 6 inches from the base now? Can I cut the honeysuckle back to 6 inches as well now?

Answer

I would wait until all risk of frost has passed because if you get a hard frost it can cause the tips of shrubs to die back. This die-back can be trimmed off but if the shrub is at its lowest height you will have nothing left to trim away. You should be OK to do it at the middle of April. You will still get a good display so don’t worry, you’ll be surprised how quickly they will grow from May onwards. You method sounds good but don’t forget to give them a little feed of fertilizer. You can buy one specifically for roses or you can use blood, fish and bone meal which can be used on all your plants. A mulch of well rotted manure around the base will also be good to keep down weeds and help improve the structure of the soil.

Question

Leaves on the hyacinth are going yellow. Can I cut them to the base; remove bulbs from the indoor pot and plant in the garden now? Any thoughts as to where best and how i.e. depth etc to plant them?

Answer

Yes you can cut them back and plant them out in the garden. Here’s a link to my Bulbs page which should help you when planting but the general rule is three times its own depth in a sunny position. http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/bulbs.htm

Question

I have recently bought some of the pretty flowering heathers you see at this time of year but know little about them I did hear that they need to be planted I the special compost you use for azaleas and rhododendrons also how long do they flower for I am told the ones you see in the garden centres are all forced has I believe they do not flower until early summer do I prune them when they finish flowering and when should I feed them thank you for any advice you can provide

Answer

There are two types of heather so I’ll give you the details for both. The first type is the “Erica” variety. These heathers do prefer acid soil but they will tolerate slightly alkaline soil, either way it needs to be well-drained and placed in a sunny spot. If you don’t know how acidic your soil is then it would be best to plant into pots using Ericaceous compost although it’s not essential. This type of heather flowers January to March and should be trimmed after flowering with shears or secateurs to remove the dead flowers and encourage bushy growth. The second type is “Calluna”. They like full sun and well-drained, humus-rich, acid soil or ericaceous compost. They flower July to November. In March or April cut back the flowered shoots to within 2.5cm (1in) of the old growth.

Question

My husband would like to know are than any certain types of methods used to make top soil more firm? He’s clearing out some land and the soil is too soft to hold weight.

Answer

I’m not entirely certain I understand exactly what the problem is but I think it is one of the following. The top soil may be too “soft” meaning it is not compacted enough. If this is the case then you should be able to carefully tread down the surface by slowly walking around until it is firm. However, the problem may be that the soil is too sandy, meaning that it has no substance and keeps falling apart. The added problem here is that it will also be very poor making it difficult to grow anything. If this is the case then you need to improve the structure by adding lots and lots of well rotted organic matter such as horse or cow manure. This can be bought in bulk or, if you live near a farm or stables, you may get it for free if you agree to collect it. If you have to go this route then it will take some time for the soil to change and become more substantial, perhaps as long as a year. To avoid weeds taking hold while you’re waiting you could grow some green manure which will subsequently be incorporated into the soil, again adding goodness. Here is an article which might help. http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/soil.htm#Green_manures0

Questions for February 2008

Question

I have a Xylosteum (fly honeysuckle) growing in my garden. Please could you tell me if the red berries growing in the winter are poisonous? I have several young children and am concerned for their welfare.

Answer

The berries on the fly honeysuckle are mildly poisonous so I wouldn’t > take a chance near small children.

Question

We have recently purchased a property with a Bore, the Bore water has a high Iron content, and although my newly planted garden isn’t affected by this my neighbour has reported that he has lost his plants due to the Iron levels in the water. So my question is will the Iron affect the growth of my plants? (The Iron level isn’t extreme; it is still suitable for drinking)

Answer

I have tried to do some research on this but can’t find an awful lot on the subject. The usual problem in gardens is lack of iron as a lot of plants are unable to absorb the iron the soil. I would think that as long as you look after your soil and plant good quality specimens your plants should be OK. Keep the site well drained and add plenty of well rotted organic matter each year to improve the structure. Sorry I couldn’t offer more help.

Question

I live on a estate where when I come out of my flat I come on to a dark outside landing that gets little natural light I was wondering if there was any type of trees shrub I and my fellow neighbours could put in to pots that would brighten the place up I would like some thing that would grow to around 6ft I did thing about conifers but I believe like a lot of trees and plants they need a fair amount of sunshine and /or natural light if you can think of anything I would be grateful preferably something that would be evaluable in your average garden centres

Answer

Firstly you could try ferns. These come in various sizes, not as tall as 6ft but some can reach 3ft and have a good texture. Alternatively, why not put an obelisk into a container and grow ivy up it, twining it in and out as it grows to make it bush out. There are some lovely brightly coloured ivy such as Sulphur Heart. For a long term investment you could try a climbing hydrangea. I have one on the back wall of my house. It faces north and never gets any sun, it won’t grow as big as it says in the description and you can prune it each year if needed and it still flowers well. Here’s a link so you can see what it looks like. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/climbers/other-climbers/hydrangea-anomala-subsp.-petiolaris/itemno.PL00003342/. For a short-term show you could try a few hanging baskets or containers filled with Busy Lizzies. They won’t flower as long or as bright as when they are in sunlight but you should get a few weeks out of them and they will tolerate being dried out if they don’t get watered for a while. In all cases you will need to ensure the soil is of good quality and add some well rotted organic matter to help retain moisture. Either re-pot or top-up the containers each year to keep them fresh.

Questions for January 2008

Question

HI, I need some advice please on what to do with an old veggie patch in my backyard. The previous owner maintained a veggie patch, taking up about one-third of the yard.  It is no longer maintained as a veggie patch and if I could afford it I would makeover the whole backyard.  That area is now just a patch of dirt that is overgrown with weeds.  The man that mows my front lawn previously cleared it, but then I found that the loose soil was unsightly and would blow onto the paved area on windy days. It also had a lot of debris in it (from old construction work on my house, bits of broken plaster) that was unnoticeable while the weeds were growing over it. How do I keep the patch looking neat, would it be possible to cover it over with gravel or wood chips?  I don’t want to spend a lot of money by putting a lawn over it as I intend to redo the whole area someday.

Answer

It should be quite easy to deal with this area. First of all I would ensure that all the weeds are well and truly dead by treating the area with a good quality perennial weed killer. Leave it for a few weeks to see if any annual weeds germinate and if they do pull them out by hand. Then you should lay a weed suppressing membrane ensuring that the whole area is well covered. You will be able to buy this from your local garden centre or DIY store. Finally lay a thick layer of your chosen mulch. You can use anything you like as they all do the same job. The thing to remember is that weed seeds will find there way into the mulch and germinate. However they are usually quite weak so if you pull them up as soon as you see them they should be quite easy to control.

Question

I have just bought a lovely Cordyline australis red star it says on the plant card its only half hardy and wont survive hard frosts yet elsewhere I have read its fully hardy and the frost wont damage it I have bought it in doors placed it where it can get plenty of light and avoided putting it near radiators so should I keep it indoors for now or plant it out it is in a large black plastic pot at moment I have other Cordylines which have done ok over last two winters though different from this one

Answer

You are correct that some Cordylines do survive the winter but I think it best to play safe. Leave it indoors over this winter and plant it out into a sheltered, sunny spot once the risk of frost has passed. Next winter cover the leaves with horticultural fleece to protect it. Alternatively plant it into a nice pot and bring it indoors each winter.

Question

I have a very shaded area of my garden 5 6 hours max sun on a good day in summer I was looking at a relatively inexpensive way of planting some form of hedge that will not grow much over 3ft but will be noticeable perhaps something that may have flowers or berries on at some stage in the year any advice welcomed

Answer

I have done some research and found a few plants which should make a good, low hedge with some interest. There are not many hedging plants which like full shade so I have also included some that like partial shade. They should still do OK although they may bloom a little later than usual. Switch Ivy – likes acid soil, Snowy Woodrush – I don’t know this one well but enjoys full shade, Common Box – needs to be kept well pruned to shape, Berberis – likes sun or shade. Lovely colour but has thorns, Pyracantha – also like sun or shade but again is thorny and will need pruning well each year, Red-barked Dogwood – the red bark is even better when cut right down each year.

Questions for December 2007

Question:

I recently bought two holly trees one was a standard ilex with plenty berries the other I was told was a female has well but has a couple of berries on it so I assume that must be female has well I have been told I need a male nearby has I have not seen any in my area I am a bit confused has there is so many on the market but basically my question is will any male holly do for the female has I have been told there is only a one in 50 chance of getting a female of the same family thanks for any advice

Answer:

You are correct that you require a male ilex to ensure berries on your female plants. One male can fertilise up to five females. Be careful when buying your male plant as some have names which sound female, e.g. Silver Queen.

Question:

I wonder if you could help me please. My umbrella plant has started losing leaves and I am worried I am doing something wrong. We live in Turkey and during the summer it was unusually hot and while we were in the UK I don’t think it was watered as well as it could have been. It lost quite a lot of leaves during this time and although it has had lots of TLC since I am worried it may still be suffering the effects of the heat. I have sprayed with leave shine I do not overwater and it stands in a south facing light spot in our lounge. Can you offer any suggestions please?

Answer:

The Umbrella Plant likes to be kept moist but does not like to sit in water so it could be that, as you say, it was either not watered or indeed overwatered. When a plant goes through trauma like this is does take a while for it to recover so I wouldn’t give up hope just yet. Here are some care instructions which may help. It likes bright but indirect light so as long as it is not near a window it should be OK in your lounge. It needs to be kept warm over the winter at a minimum of 60°F. Water well over the summer months and less over the winter. Place in a pebble tray or mist regularly to keep up humidity. Feed a liquid feed every month over the growing season. If it is still not looking good by summer you may want to consider cutting it down and seeing if it will re-grow from the base. There are no guarantees that this will help so use it as a last resort.

Questions for October 2007

Question:

Please could you tell me whether the fuchsia “Shadow Dancer” is hardy?

Answer:

Your Fuchsia “Shadow Dancer” has a hardiness rating of H3 which means that you need to give it some protection from frost. Either move it into an unheated greenhouse or cover with horticultural fleece when frost is expected.

Question:

I have bought several small cuttings today of Buxus golden dream how big can this grow in height and spread and does it grow all year round should I water and feed it in winter thank you for any advice you can give.

Answer:

Buxus ‘Golden Dream’ is a compact, evergreen shrub with dense foliage. Its colour is most pronounced in full sun, but will it will grow in either full sun or partial shade. This plant can be used for anything from a low growing hedge to a nice, neat, accent in any garden. As with most all boxwoods, it prefers slightly cooler, moist soils with good drainage. A good top dressing of mulch will do wonders to keep the soil conditions favourable. Its height and spread is 3-4 ft and it grows at a moderate rate. Although this is a hardy shrub if the cuttings are particularly small I would keep them in their pots and protect them over this winter, planting them out once the risk of frost has passed next spring. They shouldn’t need any feeding this winter but make sure they don’t dry out. When you plant them out give then a good mulch of well rotted manure.

Questions for August 2007

Question:

I bought a lavender tree lavandula dentata I planted about 6weeks ago it does say its hare had only the odd night of frost but don t expose to prolonged frost we have had only the odd night of frost since I bought it I have noticed today there are one or two brown spikes on it and the rest seem to be drooping I have given it a feed of miracle grow rose and shrub food I am been unduly concerned will it perk up when the weather gets warmer and is there any thing I can specifically do to help it.

Answer:

Unfortunately Lavandula dentate (French Lavender) is not hardy in the UK so should be kept indoors during the winter. You could try bringing it in now, keeping it warm for the next few weeks to see if it perks up. Don’t cut off the brown spikes just yet. If you still have some green growth by the end of April then prune it back before placing outdoors for the summer. Be careful not to prune into any old or brown woody parts of the plant as it will never re-grow from these areas.

Question:

I would like to know if I could put my magnolia in a container as I am moving house and the garden is all slabs, it is around 2 to 3 years old and around 4 foot.

Answer:

My mum has successfully grown her magnolia in a pot for years and it always looks good. I assume it is in the ground at the moment so you will have to carefully lift it ensuring you don’t damage the roots. Make sure it doesn’t dry out before placing it in as large a pot as possible. Put lots of crocks in the bottom to help drainage and add a slow release fertilizer to the soil around the plant. Each year top off the plant with new compost and / or manure to keep the soil well fed. You may find it goes into shock this year but it should be OK by next year’s flowering season. You will find that the plant won’t grow as big as it would if it was in the ground and it may not live as long either.

Question:

I currently live in West Sussex and do hope that you can give me some advice on the Meyers lemon tree that I purchased last year. You see I am new to the way of gardening here in England, as I spent most of my gardening life in the tropical area of South Africa where it never gets really cold. As I have already mentioned I purchased a lemon tree, which I put into a huge pot on my patio, but now I see that during the course of winter it has lost all its leaves and a lot of the tips of the branches have gone brown. I did not place it indoors, as I do not have the strength to be lugging it around – nor did I cover it with anything. My question is do I throw the tree away or do you think it will pick up again in spring.

Answer:

Unfortunately citrus plants will not survive outside during an English winter. However, having said that, if you have not had a hard frost and it’s in a sheltered position then you may get away with it. I wouldn’t give up on it just yet. Buy some horticultural fleece (available from garden centres or the larger DIY stores, cover it for the rest of the winter and make sure it doesn’t get too wet. If it’s survived you should see new leaves appearing when the weather warms up during April/May.

Question:

Can you please tell me any plants besides Aubrietia that you can plant in the top of a walled raised bed to hang over or to plant vertically in the wall?

Answer:

Please find below some suggestions. Most of these are alpines and do require a well drained soil. Cerastium (Snow-in-summer) – colour: white Iberis (Candytuft) – colour: white Linaria (Toadflax) – colour: various – there is an upright version of this too Saponaria (Soapwort) – colour: pink. You could also consider planting a nice coloured, small leaved ivy to trail down and plant some low growing alpines, such as Thrift to add some height. If you don’t mind a bit of work you could consider planting trailing geraniums or other colourful annuals each year.

Question:

Our neighbours have just built an extension, the side wall of which overlooks our back garden. Unfortunately, a variety of bricks have been used and they haven’t been spaced out very well with the result that the wall overlooking our back garden is unsightly and also oppressive. We would like a fast growing plant which would hide the wall. The wall goes up to 310 cm in height. Please could you advise us as to what would be the best plant to hide this wall and which would grow quickly?

Answer:

My ideal would be ivy. There are lots of different varieties giving you a wide selection of leaf sizes and colours which are evergreen. Once established it is extremely fast growing and also has the benefit of being able to climb without support and will grow in any situation. The other is the Montana range of Clematis which again is very fast growing and has the extra benefit of fragrant flowers in the spring. However you will need to erect some sort of support structure such as trellis or wires before planting. A sunny site will give the best results. Which ever plant you choose make sure you don’t plant it too close to the wall as it won’t be able to get as much water as it needs. If you go to my Plant your Garden page http://gardeningregister.co.uk/NonProductPages/Articles/planting.htm.  You will see an advert from Crocus. If you click the Climbers box you will be able to enter some information about the location and features required and receive a number of suggestions back.

Question:

I’ve got a question about holly trees that you might be able to answer for me…! As you know – you need male and female holly for the female plant to produce berries, but do the male and female plant need to be the same variety?? I have a silver queen (male) and a golden king (female) – will I get berries from this??

Answer:

I have double checked and you only need to have one male holly, of any variety, to pollinate several female plants of any variety. Therefore the two you have will do fine; the female plant will produce the berries, not the male. If you’d like more berries you could buy another female variety.

Question:

I am the General Manager of a psychiatric unit in London. We have recently built a secure steel balcony to provide additional outdoor space to one of our first floor wards. The construction is a ‘metal cage’ with a very raw look to it and I would appreciate it if you could give me some ideas on the types of plants we would use to brighten up the area. The balcony is south facing and I would preferably like ones that are easy to manage and stay evergreen so there is colour all year round. Have you any suggestions. The main problem is that for safety reasons we can not use climbing plants as patients could use these to climb up and fall, we can not use plants that have poisonous leaves or berries as patients could eat these and we are unable to use plants that have sharp edges as patients may use these to self harm or ones that attract bees in case of allergic reaction to possible bee stings. In addition, we would require the plants to be in pots that are too heavy for a patient to lift in case they throw them. As you can see from a non-gardeners point of view I am struggling to find the appropriate plants and your assistance and advice would be very welcome.

Answer:

I’ve come up with some ideas and attach an outline of a plan which may be of interest. My first thought was to fit a bench across the left-hand 2.4m section. This could be attached to the balcony and would allow seating for a few people. I have also left room for quite a large table and six chairs. Your idea of galvanized containers screwed into the patio seems a good idea and I’ve found a couple of sites which may be able to provide them. and http://shop.theurbangarden.co.uk/product_select.asp?prtID=49&d=planters. The alternative is to have a raised bed built into the corner which is also attached to the balcony as per my plan. You could have it built as one big “box” or if you had six separate boxes they could be tiered so that the outermost ones are lower than the top ones. This would provide more interest and allow for plants to cascade the corners of each “box”. As for plants. My initial thought is to use Herbs. These are usually soft and are, of course, edible. For added interest I thought a few grasses. I have found a few examples of my thoughts on Crocus.co.uk and have attached a link to their page so you can find out a little more about them. Fennel (especially Bronze which is a lovely colour) these grow to about 1.8m but not very wide so you could fit in quite a few. They are light and move with the wind giving a feeling of movement. I find it best to snip off the flowers to avoid them going to seed and ruining the look. Also, they will die down for the winter but this also means it doesn’t take over. To compliment the colour and movement of the Fennel I thought a few soft grasses would be nice. They tend to give great autumn colour and if left over the winter they provide structure and look nice when frosted. They will have to be cut back to allow the new growth through but it’s not a hard job. Here are a couple of examples. For an evergreen look I think Rosemary would be good. They can grown quite big so may need keeping in check but they are very hardy and don’t require much maintenance. They are usually a rich dark green with lavender/blue flowers during the summer. To compliment the rosemary how about Lavender. There are lots of varieties around but you need to have a good hardy one to see you through the winters. To break-up the front of the containers/bed I suggest planting a few “lesser” periwinkles. These come in white, lilac or purple in lots of different shades. The leaf colours also differ so you could find one you like. The “greater” periwinkles have bigger flowers and grow too big and fast for containers. Just tuck them into the corners of each “box” and let them hang down. They do spread so you may need to pull them up to avoid them taking over the whole container. Finally, I thought the little space near the entrance could do with something. Mint is a great herb but extremely invasive so it is ideal in its own container. There are lots available, such as pineapple mint and apple mint so again you should find some you like. They will die down for the winter but will come back each spring. Regardless of the containers you use you will have to ensure that there is adequate drainage in the bottom. Punch some holes in the base of the containers and lift them slightly off the floor. To help the drainage and keep the weight down fill the bottom of the containers with a good layer of polystyrene which you get in packaging. Use good quality compost and add some vermiculite which will also help keep the weight down but will also aid drainage. I would also add a slow release fertilizer and some water-retaining granules. You won’t be able to use hard mulch so I would top off the planting with a good layer of well-rotted manure. This will help retain moisture, keep weeds down and add goodness to the soil. Each autumn you should add another layer.

Make your own Hanging Basket in 8 Easy Steps

Hanging baskets are a wonderful way of adding colour to your garden, particularly if you have a paved garden or yard.

Hanging baskets also add height and make the most of the smallest of spaces.

Annual flowers are ideal for most baskets but perennials such as ivy, hebe or grasses add another dimension. Most garden centres sell Hanging Basket Selections which takes the guesswork out of choosing the ideal plants for your basket. Pack your basket with lots of plants to make the best display.

Why not try growing tomatoes in a hanging basket? Use a tumbing variety such as Tomato Tumbler or Tomato Tumbling Yellow; follow the guidelines for a flowering basket.

Follow the following easy steps to making your own hanging basket:

1. Choose your basket – there are many different sized and shaped baskets available; just have a browse around your local garden centre.
2. Choose your liner – again, there are lots of liners available in garden centres but you can also use a sheet of thick plastic with a few holes to allow for drainage.
3. Line the basket – place the basket in the top of a large pot or bucket to keep it level. Fit your liner and press into the shape of the basket cutting off any excess. If you want to plant around the sides of the basket, cut some holes in the liner where you want to plant.
4. Fill the basket – mix a slow-release fertiliser and water-retaining granules into a multi-purpose compost and fill the basket up to the planting holes in the sides.
5. Add the side plants – carefully guide each plant into the sides of the basket, pushing gently from the outside. It works best if these plants are tumbling varieties such as trailing petunias, lobelia or fuchsia. Fill the basket with more compost.
6. Add the top plants – Plant more tumbling plants around the edge of the basket, set off from the plants in the sides. Add an upright plant such as peranium or a small conifer, into the centre of the compost and firm in well.
7. Finish your basket – water the basket thoroughly and let it settle before hanging in your desired spot.
8. Look after your basket – keep the basket well watered and dead-head regularly to keep the flowers coming.

In the autumn empty the basket and compost the annual plants, the perennials can be used again next year if looked after during the winter. For a winter/early spring display replace the compost and add plants such as hellebores, polyanthus and winter flowering pansies.

Next Page »